How Are the Holds on Burden of Dreams
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- čas přidán 14. 06. 2023
- I tried to analyze all the holds, footholds and possible betas on the very first 9A/V17 boulder in the world. The holds are just a bunch but the details around them are a lot. Check out here my point of view!
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Filmed and edited by 📸🎥:
Crimp films: crimp.films... - Sport
Absolutely crazy that Nalle thought "hey I think this is climbable" back then
Dude seriously. Like this is something that just plain isn't suppose to be possible for humans. Yet these guys are over here climbing on it. Mental
You know you're good when you climb boulders where each hold has finger beta
I love this boulder just for how short and straightforward it is, but just unbelievably hard. Other V16/17s almost seem like short sport routes. This one is a boulder through and through.
so true ! I think it's because longer boulders are funnier to try - individual moves being easier. Looking for the hardest indiviual move like Charles Albert does is not very rewarding, although is the purest form of bouldering
@@flooo5071that makes a lot of sense actually
@@flooo5071 I'm sure it's very rewarding to him but he's literally a caveman who climbs absurdly hard boulders without shoes so I'm guessing his mindset is just a bit different from the rest of us lol.
I think it could be the Hubble of bouldering and be debated as 9a/9a+ in years to come. Imagine that haha Nalle is credited for the first 9a+ boulder.
I’m not sure what you mean by that. Yeah alphane is super long but both return of the sleepwalker and Soudain Seul are quite normal lengths for a boulder. Megatron is pretty long too but it’s not anything crazy.
1:29 BOD confirmed as a crack climb, send Pete on it!
V17, Pete8.
Can't wait for the 2nd part when you will show the holds!
What holds?
It's incredible to see how creative climbers can be with just few holds! That high foot was crazyyyyy
I would say that heel hook on the left is even crazier
Sure Stefo, those footholds are there. You've just gotta believe they are hard enough!
This is one of the best and most in depth climbing videos I've ever seen. The slow mo footage makes it even better still.
Dammit there goes the on-site for me
With all this BoD Footage I already know the beta better than in any of my own projects 😅💪🏽
"So the right foot is not very bad" *points to random spot on a basically flat wall with 45° overhang*
I sent a V2 in the gym yesterday. I think I’m ready.
Such a good description I think I might give it a go now.
looking at the video i'm like "ok looks hard" but when you see/feel it irl its like grabbing the edge of a piece of paper.. impossible, impressive, wow
I feel like this is the 100th video I've seen about Burden in the last month and probably the 5th specifically about the holds
For real lol
I'm here for it though, I'm not bored of all the micro beta yet. So interesting to see all these great climbers break it down to minutiae.
Love these how are the holds videos! So cool to see it on such a hard Boulder too!
I'm watching this like: intriguing, I'll grab the hold like this, because it fits my style when I get there, when I can barely climb at a quarter of his strenght
Next video: learning braille to "see" the holds on Burden
I really like these videos. Really helps me to appreciate just how nuanced and elegant the process is.
It's like falling in love :)
I would love to step on these holds. Please tell Adam to quit the world cup and go to Finland so I can experience this climb.
Thank you for the more chill music on this one :)
Astonishing ! This looks really really hard !
There are holds on Burden? 😂
Yea I wasn't aware, either. Always assumed they had gorilla glue on their fingers xD
The holds seem reasonable to me, a 7a climber..... if the wall was totally straight and not 45°😂
this crazy optimization process seems like the way to go if you want to push further the difficulty.
so faszinating!!! 😮😮😮
I have everything I need to book my trip, ty
I think people are familiar with the damn holds. Love you Stef
Well done Ste
Great video, I Will like a interview with Nalle and Bossi, Nalle deserve a Little more credit from this dream line and he's FA, just saying. Blessings❤
At 97.7 K I'm looking forward to the send video!
That was very curious! Thanks!=
This was really interesting! :)
Do you think the holds are goling to degrade from all the working on it, especially the feet, or have already?
I just noticed the channel description lol. I don't like gravity all that much either but Stefano is doing a way better job trying to escape it 😂
I often do this with my friends on the v1s 😂
Looks tough
How was the comparison with the replica? Which was harder?
super music!
sick
My local gym (Hangar in Sheffield) actually has the replica holds on a 10 degree wall right now lol.
It's like V4ish at that angle I think, and the holds are actually surprisingly good.
It looks easy
The Grand Whipple
Ma… il video di excalibur? Ma esiste? Sono mesi che lo cerco!! 😭😂
So if someone was a Michael Jordan, would it count if they just jumped for the top hold?
Unlike indoor bouldering there are no tags to say the start position.
Its a sit start
Are there holds on BoD? I don't see them😂
I will ruin the boulder by smoothing out the whole rock face with a grinder. Oh wait. Someone already did that.
This may actually be a v18 but idk
how many videos u gonna make about this before u send it
What rock type is that?
A specific type of granite
@@Miles26545 an interesting kind indeed! Large round Kspar.
@@esAqos en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rapakivi_granite
@@jhaiko Thank you very much :-)
where are the holds I only see a flat wall
Ok so whats stopping a mad mann from chiselling new holds into the wall? Or widening the foot holds
There was a video awhile back of some dude chipping away at the starting holds of a classic boulder to bring it down to his skill level. He was doxed and shunned by the whole climbing community. It was kinda fun to see.
I'm not sure about Finland, but in the US you could be arrested for destruction of public property and get up to 10 years in prison and a $250,000 fine.
Well if someone ever tries to flash it they will have enough info i think
Hold my beer
bro goes to a flat wall with a shoddy paint job and finds footholds on it.
"Skilled, precise, and flexible at heel hooking" hmmm who does that remind you of
Good video, but the music loop gets pretty tiresome.
I don't know you, but I didn't see any holds, not that I can hold, at least.
jugs fr
"How Are the Holds on Burden of Dreams?"
On a 45 degree V17? Is this a trick question?
Well there was that one foot that was "okay" 😄
@@hurmeli ah yes, that half a credit card :D
Took 12 minutes to say "shit, the holds are shit"
haha "holds"
"shortest video ever" -makes a video longer then the 9c one
Shit! I can't insight it now!
Stefano seems to have a good character. Not like many of these arrogant american bouldering stars...