Is Will Bosi the strongest climber? The Results!
Vložit
- čas přidán 9. 06. 2024
- Will Bosi is one of the best climbers in the world, and he is on top form at the moment! Having just returned from Finland where he climbed the infamous boulder, Burden of Dreams V17, there is no doubt he is very strong. But how strong is a V17 climber? Luckily Will dropped by the Lattice Training HQ for a testing session with his Coach, Tom Randall. We are going to get some impressive results and maybe some surprises.
TRY OUR FREE ASSESSMENTS 💪
latticetraining.com/assessments/
CUSTOMISED TRAINING PLANS ✅ Find out more about our Lattice Training Plans here: latticetraining.com/plans/
SPECIALIST EQUIPMENT👉 Check out the Lattice Shop for world leading training products:
latticetraining.com/product-c... - Sport
For the pull-up test, he might not have pulled the hardest but his form was the best out of the people you’ve had on in a while
Lattice Team, this is a crazy dream, but it would be absolutely massive if you could get your hands on the Mellow crew.
Maybe we'll start crowd funding for a US trip. Or set up shop in Magic Wood next season ;)
@@LatticeTraining There's an idea.
@@LatticeTraining come to squamish also! 😀
Hell yeah. Shawn Raboutou's 3FD is incredible, I want to see the numbers!
@@Hobbychemiefreak Will and Aiden aren't too shabby. Maybe even incredible...
100% thought Cam was just Pete but with glasses 😂
Pete in disguise 🥸
Meeting and BEATING the averages for 9c and V17 is insane
"I really struggle to fingerboard" - A man with some of the strongest fingers in the world
Would be interesting to see a ranking of all the pros you tested with each exercise.
Maybe we'll compile a list :)
@@LatticeTraining I'm picturing a Top-Gear style 'a star in our reasonably priced car' leaderboard. That'd be great
@@Pietervanloon1996 star on a reasonably expensive hang board?
@@LatticeTraining
please please please
@@LatticeTraining either you do it, or i do it and send you the list :D
Would absolutely love to see a graph that compares the results of the really strong climbers you guys have tested, also have you guys ever tried out any core strength metrics or shoulder strength metrics for certain kinds of moves such as gastons or compression?
Also was there ever any testing with different edge sizes to see if they results hold up across different hold sizes?
Compared to all other elite climbers I’ve seen, he looks so normal! Like is he even ripped? Because if not there’s hope for me still 😅
Love watching the dialogue with Will, seems like a really nice guy.
I haven't even watched it yet but my guess is "yes, he is"...
Its a very safe bet.
Will Bosi or the so called MR. V17 - the meen of the mean.
UNPRECEDENTED - we get hardest boulder stream sessions, then we get standardized testing and metrics in a top level video edit.
Cannot believe where is climbing now compared to only 10 years ago.
Keep up the amazing work of keeping everyone PSYCHED beyond their mind.
Will you are a beast, so well rounded it is bonkers.
Even 5 years ago. Crazy. And awesome!
I honestly thought Will would do much better than he did. Would be interesting to see the entire Mellow crew on here as well as Adam,Alex, Jakob, and a few of the top female climbers as well.
Also it would be cool to have a pdf list giving a ranking of all athletes who have done this test just to see how they compare to one another and to see if we can beat their scores(like that’s even possible lol)
We'd love to have even more of the top athlete come do the test. But we currently rely on the athletes being motivated to come to Sheffield, which not everyone is. If the channel continues to be successful we might be able to bring the test to them :)
Apart from pullup strength and critical force (both which don't matter for bouldering as much), Will smashed it. He was significantly beating the average for 9b and V17 climbers. I thought he did great.
Also yves gravelle
@@caedmonswanson2378
Most elite boulderers have crazy pullup strength though? Seems like almost every pro boulderer busts out one arm pullups as a warmup.
All this testing you are doing is amazing!
Is there also going to be a video of Adam?
We've not tested Adam yet but would love too! We'll keep asking!
@@LatticeTraining Are you also including Janja G? Would be nice to have few top females as well.
These videos are so much fun. But I'm going on strike until you get Seb Bouin in. Need to see his critical force! (Might need to test it for 20 mins with him).
And Shawn’s
Haha we'd love to test Seb!
Do Yves Gravelle next!!
it would be pretty interesting to see a documentary where you share and compare all these numbers and experiences you've had with different top climbers, plus thoughts
4:18 looks like Hector Salamanca when he's about to blow up the bomb hahaha
Elite level reference
dingdingdingdingdingding
You made my day man
It would be super duper cool if you did a video tour of the Lattice facility! Seems like not a particularly big space but lots of high impact training apparatus.
I have the same hand morphology issues with hangboarding. If I half crimp, my pinky is nowhere near the board and I can only use the Detroit hangboard 😅
Could experiment with unlevel edges!
> Hey Will, you just climbed Burden of Dreams 9A. Let´s test your finger strength.
< I´m not sure, I haven´t done much finger boarding recently...
All of my thoughs to finally start training for climbing: ARE WE A JOKE TO YOU?
Have you ever had Yves Gravelle on for this test? The guy seems more of a fingerboarding and strenght athlete than climber, wonder if he could challenge the very top climbers in a test like this :D
We've not tested him, but I expect he'd be 'off the chart' strong!
I second this! He would break the records i bet
Btw that 1 armer on BM 14mm that Cam does on the backround there as he gets introduced..Like since when did shit like that get normal enough that you could no-sell flex with them like that? :D
I remember like 5 years ago or smth it was smth that like only Alex Megos could do :D
Cam is a beast. Strongest fingers on our coaching team by far!
PhD in climbing is so cool 🥺
Kudos to changing your mind! 🎉
Love the dirty dozen series! Excited to see where Shadowsun lands and if Azrael makes it to the Top 20
Interesting!
It would be also cool to see some of the GB competition climbers on this tests 'cause the have a whole different regime and approach to training. Like Max Milne would be perfect!
Every time I watch one of these assessments I wonder if the athletes could perform better in the tests if done separately or in different order. E.g. the 2RM pull-up seems to always be performed after being obliterated by the Critical Force test.
This is a very valid question, we get it a lot. There are a few key things to note here; 1. We need to keep things practical for the athletes, many only have one day to visit. Multiple visits just wouldn't work for us. 2. Fatigue will have an effect but we keep the sequence of testing the same for all athletes, so the conditions stay the same and help with comparison of data. 3. This data is not being entered into a research paper so we can be more practical even if the accuracy is not as good as it could be. 4. If you are ever to do a Remote Assessment (a climbing assessment we offer the public), this is split across 3 separate days because it can be done in your own time, in your own gym.
@@LatticeTraining Completely understandable. Top athletes are super busy and even guaranteeing consistency between them is a lot. What I mean is: should we at home measure by the same standards? That 164% minimum benchmark for top athletes that Will just managed tu surpass, is it for 2RM in semi fatigued conditions like the ones he performed or for completely fresh attempts?
@@gastonmaffei yeah great point. The pull-up data in particular (not the digital test) comes from our remote assessments which are split across 3 days, so the data will be much less effected by fatigue.
What is the reason behind Lattice preferring to use 2-rep-max for testing pull-up strength over a 1-rep-max?
Undefeated and undisputed
Mean for v17 climbers? I mean, who else do you got? Aidan Roberts?
yo. Could use a recommendation on how to do a "not so scientific" setup to test pressure on the hangboard. Where can I get the set up you have or could you suggest some DIY setups that one might use for a basement dweller such as myself.
its always fascinating to me how little upper body pull strength is actually involved in climbing, even absolute freaks like will bosi are only doing ~65% bw for 2 reps
after doing 15 mins of max effort pulls with each hand... what do you think a high-jumper would jump after a marathon?
I think hes an outlier, most crazy strong boulderers have much better pull strength.
"I dropped out of Uni, but not like I went to class for two years and was like oh this is hard and bailed, I went to the first lecture and then quit" lmao
Would be interested in knowing thoughts about measuring peak force with a 90 degree arm bend vs straight armed.
From the limited testing ive done with athletes it appears that most are able to pull much more when straight armed. Is there value in measuring both?
And how much of that difference is due to the straight arm puts you in a better position to have gravity help your pull force of direction. ( Not sure if that is the perfect description in physics)
Is there a way for people who can’t make it to your facilities or aren’t pro climbers to get help with coaching and performance testing?
How tall is Will? I've always thought he looks quite tall, but seems he must be around 175 ish considering how bulk he is and how little he weighs?
11:58 Guys, what is the difference between 3rd and 4th row?
Hi Guys for max hangs - is this peak force during 10 second period or average force over 10 second You measure ? Thanks !
Since I am doing research on that broad topic aswell, I would be really interested if there are gender- and/or age-dependent changes in where high-end athletes perform the best? Might be difficult to say though due to the changes between boulderers and climbers?
Will's psychedness for climbing is why I want to spend all of my time in a climbing gym. Who wouldn't want to be this hyped about climbing :D
hes crazy
Nice! I would love to see Yves Gravelle breaking those edges some day!! Really nice content. Thank you :)
Do you do these tests in the same order with everyone? Seems a bit weird to compare someone doing pull ups after critical force to someone who does them fresh?
From all of their videos, it seems like they do. Emil had similar concerns in his testing video.
Yep same order. It's not ideal to do any of these test fatigued. But that's how it goes when people only visit for one day. So we keep the sequence the same for all to make comparison a bit more reliable.
When will we get a video of the send???
Will mentioned on the nugget podcast he's editing it.
What other V17 climbers have they even tested, hard to really determine if he is average if they have only tested one other
I wondered if that was the joke there of Will being "bang on in the middle" among all the V17 climbers they have tested :D
It's an extrapolation
As Declan said, its a sort of extrapolation. We take a lot of the data from V12-V15 and model for the V17 climber. Unless something really strange happens at that level it's a good estimate. Will's test seem to suggest the model is about right haha.
Really interesting to see how these metrics change for different types of training cycles. Makes me appreciate the fragile balance that olympic climbers have to maintain to stay at the top. Hopefully lead and bouldering are their own events in the future.
I'm surprised you don't encourage people being tested to scream - it really seemed to make a difference with Emil.
Yes interesting, this is another variable the we could look into.
Was he fresh?? Do you note if there was a rest day(s) before this testing?
We ask the athletes to be rested, yes. Adherence to this is not strictly monitored and "rest" is subjective. But we try our best and these results are not going to be published in a research paper.
@@LatticeTrainingsuper cool! Sounds like the athletes rest enough for what makes them comfortable, so that’s plenty good!
Beard is aid
Of course he's strong, but technique and intelligence (the mental aspects) are so important in high level climbing as well.
I will archive this video for all the people who keep telling me that you can't be strong without looking like a body builder.
Wasnt there a top for the best results in the tests?? I remember Beto Rocasolano was the top 1 at that moment
I don't think we've test Beto in the Digi Rung. His score would have been doing a yielding hang (added weight, not measured digitally).
@Lattice Training - Thanks for the vid! Can you try testing Chris Sharma next? Think we'd all like to see that one day...... #askingforafriend
Would love to test Sharma. I don't think he'd be interesting in coming to Sheffield though. Maybe we need a big world tour to test all the best climbers ;)
@@LatticeTraining Drop him a line and find out…. I dare you ;)
Wouldn’t you need to test people a number of times in order to get a true mean of their stats? Single day testing could be skewed based on any number of factors couldn’t it? (How you feel that day, etc….)
Yes this is true. But the key thing here is we not are collecting data for a research study. We are testing athletes that drop in for a single day and may not return for months. So we need to keep things practical, low burden, so that it works for the athletes (even if not ideal for data collection). We've done research to validate the CF method, you can search for Dave Giles (our lead researcher) for these papers.
@@LatticeTraining yeah, no, I completely trust you guys and the job you’re doing. I’m just saying that athletes who look at these numbers should probably look at them with a grain of salt and understand that there are a number of reasons that single day numbers could skew so they’re not necessarily indicative of true strength, but more a baseline. I didn’t mean any offense
Please test Ben Moon❤😊
I'm pulling 65 kg on the lattice metal block, how does that compare?
Compare to your body weight
@@marcosjuan3142 Compare to other people
@@gravyblue pinch or crimp?
@@TheValinov Christ. Crimp.
@@gravyblue it would be ideal to compare yourself with others of similar weight and height... but actually it's quite complicated
🏴💪🏻🔥
Make the visuals bigger, we can't read them!
Yes he is. Whatever the test says.
Yes indeed. Test just confirms what we expected haha.
How did will do compared to Stefano?
Stefano Vs Will = 117% v 121% Finger Strength & 65.4% V 40.9% CF. Stefano is on much better form for routes, Will for boulders. Which likely reflects in their climbing recently.
@@LatticeTraining How does that 4% translate to max expected bouldering grade? And what kind of route shape was Will in when he was tested at 45%? Would you expect that stefano could add 5% to the finger strength at the expense of critical force?
what is Will Bosi weight and height ?
Why asking for a man's numbers? Lol
@@Porklion to relate absolue numbers to bodyweight strength ratio
I don't remember but I think he might have said in one of the replica videos. Could be mistaken
@@tanguylehoux4270 but that is specific to him. How would this information benefit anyone else?
Yes, but you can compare it with other pro climbers and make a top list. And of course you can compare yourself to him...
👍👍👍
When Adam Ondra will take the Lattice test??? ;)
When Adam next comes to the UK we'll try our best to get him involved.
What's Bosi's Bodyweight?
If 42.5kg is 64%, it should be 66.4kg
@@primeangel 146 pounds seems heavy for I'm guessing 5'10 at most. But with a clean one rep max of 45kg/100lb (Maybe 110 performed first) let's say.... this proves that his well-rounded finger strength in all grip types in more important than his upper body strength or power output. He didn't claim to do any finger boarding. However, he has shown some impressive 6 mm and 8 mm strength (Weighted) at half crimp on his insta, which you can not build by just climbing. Bosi understand climbing mechanics and what works best better than anyone in the game. I hope he takes it to the next level. What's amazing is I don't think he is doing this by campusing and insanely weighted pull-ups.
so can he do v15s?
Yup, he can also do v16s and even v17s!
wait i can 2 rep pull up more then will bosi? wtf
I'm like 5 times worse at finger strength though xD
arabic threshold?
get seb bouin
"average for a V17 climber" 😅😂
So when are we going to see Janja Garnbret do this test? I feel like the worlds strongest climber is a female
Sounds like he generates some upward force in a more unconventional way around 4min 30ish. Hahahaha
To play a bit of devil's advocate: do we really need another feats of strength video? Are we just all voyeurs now? Is this what gets us psyched, just hours in the gym hanging off an edge? Should it not be doing rad shit at the cliff, having good laughs with friends, and/or giving back to the community? Don't get me wrong. Will is a machine and seemingly a nice human. Let's learn more about the latter and give the training bit a rest. Climbing is (or at least should be) much more than gym training.
The channel is called lattice training though
We "shouldnt" be doing anything. We do what we like or enjoy
DO THEY KNOW HIS FOOT IS ON THE GROUND??? Then the rest of them they aren't even showing a full body shot? I doubt this guy is even a v6 climber.
You can’t be serious
Not so impressiv
He was standing with one foot on the ground and not able to hold the crimp free and a pull up with 40 or 50 kg is doable for an average climber. This strength is far away from Moon or Moffatt, they also had much more tension. This power is enough for V7 and does not explain the V12 or more.
Made unfortunatly the experience that climber use an extrem glue while bouldering and climbing.
I'm curious, have you always done the Maximum Voluntary Contraction test before the Rate of Force Development?
It was always my understanding that you'll lose your ability to produce power/explosiveness before you lose your top end strength within a single workout, though I don't think it's really been studied.
I also wonder if post activation potentiation (PAP) has an effect on the RFD test. Since it has the potential to temporarily increase both RFD and MVC and you take the highest values for both parameters, it seems that the RFD results may be higher than what would be displayed on the wall. This means your MVC reading may be more representative of expected performance, while the RFD would have an acute performance boost from the PAP.
Overall PAP needs more thorough and specific research, but I wonder if it could be leveraged by people who are climbing at their limit.
The last paragraph of the article below suggests to me that a relatively intense "warm up" could be used to boost performance on at least a few hard sends.
bjsm.bmj.com/content/38/4/386
Qualify to represent the LVC