Paul, Thank you for hitting all the little details in a clear, concise manner. You do this in all your vids. Also, great to see you and Blake work together. Kudos.
You are awesome my friend I really appreciate you following my channel. I am getting ready to go to my other job on the fire dept. and you made my day better. Have a great day and Thanks!
That was great! you have patience for sure. When I was a kid and painted cars in my garage I'd get a bug fly onto a hood and start break dancing, we called them Baja Bugs🤣😎 Great video Paul!
Thank you John but I must say that Mike Quist with Stone Coat probably forgot more than I will ever know about epoxy. Have a great night buddy and THANKS!
Great work, Paul, as always. Question for you - when you sand the epoxy, does it look like honed or normal sheen marble? Congrats on your moving on to American Builder. Don’t ever forget us followers of your YT channel. You have been my DIY hero.
Thanks Buddy, I can't wait to finish a couple of projects so I can post them. I've been real busy but I love working with this stuff and I think you will like em. Have a great day!
Paul, great work as always. Very nice. Just a couple small but important tips to consider. Mike and Stone Coat always recommend mixing the epoxy with Part B first and then pouring the Part A in second. This helps assure best mixing. I've read too many distressed new users having hardening issues due to not mixing it extremely well. You obviously have figured out a technique to mix it thoroughly. Just trying to help new folks have best chance for success right away. Second, did you know that Stone Coat designed that trowel with the angles to make sure you lay down the correct volume of epoxy? That lip that you hold onto is designed to be flat or parallel with your working surface as you trowel it out. That will automatically leave the correct amount of material onto the surface. I noted that you were troweling it at a very flat angle and that can cause the layer to be thinner than needed for most types of work. Again, have read many distressed comments of people having voids and edge pullbacks due to lack of epoxy on the surface. I hope this helps. Thanks again for all the great videos you put to help us.
Thank you Freelude, I really appreciate your info. Mike obviously knows more than me when it comes to epoxy and your information is a great help. I totally agree with you, mixing the product well and mixing the correct amount are the most important things to do when it comes to epoxy. I guess I'm a little too comfortable because I have poured a decent amount of counter tops and bars for companies in the past and I only had 1 that didn't dry correctly. I will ask Mike why he uses B 1st. I find it easier for me to get the correct mixture if I use A 1st. Maybe I am missing something. Have a great day and thanks againg for the information, I would'nt want to steer people the wrong way. I will say that I really mix the epoxy well with the drill in forward and reverse before I pour.
Hi Nate, mixing by hand is fine if you are doing small projects every once in a while, I mix it with a drill but I mix on low speed. Yes you will get more bubbles but I would rather pop the bubbles with a torch then mix large amounts by hand. It's fine with small projects but I pour larger projects such as countertops and I find it much easier for me to use a drill. If the humidity is high and you are not working in a controlled environment, mixing by hand could also be preferred because the humidity can make the bubbles more prevalent. Remember, this is StoneCoat Epoxy and it is very thick, mixing it with a drill is recommended because of it's thick consistancy because you want it thoroughly mixed. One of the most common mistakes that people make with epoxy is not mixing well enough, anothe one is not mixing the right amount. StoneCoat is vey thick and more durable than other brands, this was one of the reasons why I switched to StoneCoat Countertop epoxy. Thanks and have a great day! Paul
Hi, wonderful videos!! I do have an important question . In a bathroom I have linoleum, I wonder if I could juice epoxy, after I sand it.. and use a prime, tendencia epoxy , I admire your work thank you in advance for your answer.. Have a blessed day!!
Yes, I personally have not done floors yet but it is on my agenda. Stonecoatcountertops.com sells Epoxy for floors and it looks awesome. Have a great day!
I did a cherry counter top with clear epoxy and I mixed it like that.... well the bubbles never came out it was all cloudy. I ended up sanding it all off and mixed the second time by hand. it must be a stone coat thing..🤔
@@ChristopherJones-nz4md Hi Chris, I'm really sorry to hear you had that problem, I faced the same issues 20 years ago when I attempted my 1st epoxy project on an oak countertop that I made. I was so proud of it until the POUR! I guess you can say we learn from our mistakes... Cherry wood has to be prepped with a seal coat at least 2 times, I recommend 3 before applying a flood coat. 1 oz. per sq. ft. for seal coats, you can recoat as soon as it is tacky. Polycrylic can also be used as a seal coat because it stays clear but you will need around 6 coats, it is much thinner. Cherry has beautiful open grain but it also releases air bubbles until it is properly sealed. Trust me, I learned the hard way ....... Even if you hand mix the product you will still get air bubbles on most raw wood because it will constantly release air unless you seal it 1st. Stonecoat Epoxy is made to be mixed with a drill, it is much thicker than most epoxy and it is more DURABLE as well. You will get very tired of hand mixing it on larger projects because of it's consistancy. The Ideal environment for Epoxy is indoors with low humidity and temperatures around the low 70's. I find more bubbles occur with high humidity and lower temperatures. Under these conditions you may get more bubbles but they always come out if you follow the instructions. Stonecoat countertops has a lot of information on their website but I will be happy to help if you have a question and cannot find the answer. My site is Paulstoolbox.com. If air is trapped in wood grain or an object that you are coating such as a sea shell, you will need to seal it properly or you will have constant bubbles that will not go away until you sand and recoat. I hope this helps. Have a great day! Paul
Hi Tony, I used a wall decoration that I bought from Smith & Sons, it is an old local Hardware store with wood floors in downtown Covington La. This place has a lot of different and interesting things. The piece was made from tin, I pushed it down on the seat when I poured it to create a stamp design. I wanted this one to be inset and smooth because it is a shower seat. I poured a ledge for the back of my tub and I left the tin in the concrete and painted it. That ledge is mainly for looks so I wanted it to be raised for a 3 D look. You can see how I did that on this video. czcams.com/video/xQugjuucD0c/video.html Thanks Tony, it's always good to hear from you buddy! Who Dat Nation is gonna be strong this year!!!!! Paul
Hi Michael, in the description box below or on the iPhone sometimes it’s on the right upper hand corner under the video, you’ll see an arrow pointing down. If you hit this arrow it will show you the description box. I have the video called one hour concrete top with logo. There is a link there that you can click on, shows the other video when I made those pieces out of concrete. It is very easy and cheap. I hope this helps, thanks!
We replaced our oven last weekend.... now it looks like my wife wants an entirely new kitchen to go with it. So glad I found your channel!
Paul, Thank you for hitting all the little details in a clear, concise manner. You do this in all your vids. Also, great to see you and Blake work together. Kudos.
Thank you Ian, I have a lot of fun with my boys! I'm so lucky they like to hang out with me. Have a good day buddy!
Man since i found this channel ive been binge watching for what seems like hours and hours. Thanks for the awesome content man!
I guess it is pretty randomly asking but does anybody know of a good site to stream new tv shows online ?
@Lucca Mathias i would suggest flixzone. You can find it by googling :)
@Kellen Jordy Definitely, I've been using Instaflixxer for since march myself =)
I would absolutely love to spend just one full work day with you. You're the man Paul. Thank you for all your videos.
You are awesome my friend I really appreciate you following my channel. I am getting ready to go to my other job on the fire dept. and you made my day better.
Have a great day and Thanks!
That was great! you have patience for sure. When I was a kid and painted cars in my garage I'd get a bug fly onto a hood and start break dancing, we called them Baja Bugs🤣😎 Great video Paul!
When I was a kid and that happened we did a jive... ;-)
Outstanding. Between your & Stone Coats videos, a person can't go wrong!
Thank you John but I must say that Mike Quist with Stone Coat probably forgot more than I will ever know about epoxy.
Have a great night buddy and THANKS!
Hi Paul! Have been looking up different ways to make concrete marble and I find your result one of the most pleasing! Thanks
You sure make it look easy Paul. One of these days I'll have to try it. I don't know where you find the time to do everything.
Great work, Paul, as always. Question for you - when you sand the epoxy, does it look like honed or normal sheen marble? Congrats on your moving on to American Builder. Don’t ever forget us followers of your YT channel. You have been my DIY hero.
Great work!!
Amazing what you get into. Well done.
Thanks Buddy, I can't wait to finish a couple of projects so I can post them. I've been real busy but I love working with this stuff and I think you will like em. Have a great day!
Paul, great work as always. Very nice. Just a couple small but important tips to consider. Mike and Stone Coat always recommend mixing the epoxy with Part B first and then pouring the Part A in second. This helps assure best mixing. I've read too many distressed new users having hardening issues due to not mixing it extremely well. You obviously have figured out a technique to mix it thoroughly. Just trying to help new folks have best chance for success right away. Second, did you know that Stone Coat designed that trowel with the angles to make sure you lay down the correct volume of epoxy? That lip that you hold onto is designed to be flat or parallel with your working surface as you trowel it out. That will automatically leave the correct amount of material onto the surface. I noted that you were troweling it at a very flat angle and that can cause the layer to be thinner than needed for most types of work. Again, have read many distressed comments of people having voids and edge pullbacks due to lack of epoxy on the surface. I hope this helps. Thanks again for all the great videos you put to help us.
Thank you Freelude, I really appreciate your info. Mike obviously knows more than me when it comes to epoxy and your information is a great help. I totally agree with you, mixing the product well and mixing the correct amount are the most important things to do when it comes to epoxy. I guess I'm a little too comfortable because I have poured a decent amount of counter tops and bars for companies in the past and I only had 1 that didn't dry correctly. I will ask Mike why he uses B 1st. I find it easier for me to get the correct mixture if I use A 1st. Maybe I am missing something. Have a great day and thanks againg for the information, I would'nt want to steer people the wrong way. I will say that I really mix the epoxy well with the drill in forward and reverse before I pour.
id recommend to mix by hand. The mixer introduces bubbles. That white foam in the mixing are the bubbles
Hi Nate, mixing by hand is fine if you are doing small projects every once in a while, I mix it with a drill but I mix on low speed. Yes you will get more bubbles but I would rather pop the bubbles with a torch then mix large amounts by hand. It's fine with small projects but I pour larger projects such as countertops and I find it much easier for me to use a drill. If the humidity is high and you are not working in a controlled environment, mixing by hand could also be preferred because the humidity can make the bubbles more prevalent. Remember, this is StoneCoat Epoxy and it is very thick, mixing it with a drill is recommended because of it's thick consistancy because you want it thoroughly mixed. One of the most common mistakes that people make with epoxy is not mixing well enough, anothe one is not mixing the right amount. StoneCoat is vey thick and more durable than other brands, this was one of the reasons why I switched to StoneCoat Countertop epoxy.
Thanks and have a great day!
Paul
Love the marble!
Awesome job Paul and great details in explaining the process! YOU GOT THIS😁
Thank you Tony, I really appreciate that! You Got This
Your the man Paul
Always a great show - Thanks Paul!!!
Hi Pete, thanks buddy I really appreciate you taking the time to comment, it means a lot to me!
HOLY SMOKES PAUL! THAT LOOKS AWESOME!!!! BTW, I ordered an 8' Cross X Step yesterday to match my 6'. LOVE that ladder!
Hi Brady, You are the man!! Great to heare from you!!
Have a great day buddy!
I love your channel, I learn so much. Appreciate what you do.
Hey Ro Bot, I really appreciate you. Have a great night and Thanks!
Nice that you showed how to figure the square footage but how much epoxy did you use per square foot?
You inspired me today. Thank you
Excellent job.
I be damn ...Bob Ross is alive !
Incredible!
Looks great, thanks Paul.
Thank you Ron, have a good night buddy!
Looks awesome Paul!!
Thank you Scott, I really appreciate you taking the time for me!
Great job Pauly! Stone Coat is a great product 👍
Really good - thanks - excellent video!
Outstanding video thank you
That's pretty amazing. Top video
Do you think this would work over feather finish diy kitchen countertops?
What type of paint do you use for the veins in the marble?
Top Stuff, Thanks mate.
What a clever video! , I love watching you , iv learned so much from you 😘
Good morning my friend, I hope you are doing well. It's always good to here from you. Have a great day!
Loved your video. Could I do this over a tile floor? My bathroom tile is in good shape, just the wrong color.
Will the epoxy coating begin to yellow after a while?
Do you seal it with anything?
EXCELLENT thanks
Hey man Great content!
Hi, wonderful videos!!
I do have an important question .
In a bathroom I have linoleum, I wonder if I could juice epoxy, after I sand it.. and use a prime, tendencia epoxy , I admire your work thank you in advance for your answer..
Have a blessed day!!
How did you get the concrete so white to begin with?
Fascinating! I wonder if this could be extended to floor tiles/paving?
Yes, I personally have not done floors yet but it is on my agenda. Stonecoatcountertops.com sells Epoxy for floors and it looks awesome. Have a great day!
🔥
When you put the drill in reverse, do the air bubbles come out?🤔😉
No, I put it in reverse so the mixture goes the opposite way and helps to mix the epoxy better. I wish it would though.
Thanks Steven!
I did a cherry counter top with clear epoxy and I mixed it like that.... well the bubbles never came out it was all cloudy. I ended up sanding it all off and mixed the second time by hand. it must be a stone coat thing..🤔
@@ChristopherJones-nz4md
Hi Chris,
I'm really sorry to hear you had that problem, I faced the same issues 20 years ago when I attempted my 1st epoxy project on an oak countertop that I made. I was so proud of it until the POUR! I guess you can say we learn from our mistakes... Cherry wood has to be prepped with a seal coat at least 2 times, I recommend 3 before applying a flood coat. 1 oz. per sq. ft. for seal coats, you can recoat as soon as it is tacky. Polycrylic can also be used as a seal coat because it stays clear but you will need around 6 coats, it is much thinner. Cherry has beautiful open grain but it also releases air bubbles until it is properly sealed. Trust me, I learned the hard way ....... Even if you hand mix the product you will still get air bubbles on most raw wood because it will constantly release air unless you seal it 1st. Stonecoat Epoxy is made to be mixed with a drill, it is much thicker than most epoxy and it is more DURABLE as well. You will get very tired of hand mixing it on larger projects because of it's consistancy. The Ideal environment for Epoxy is indoors with low humidity and temperatures around the low 70's. I find more bubbles occur with high humidity and lower temperatures. Under these conditions you may get more bubbles but they always come out if you follow the instructions. Stonecoat countertops has a lot of information on their website but I will be happy to help if you have a question and cannot find the answer. My site is Paulstoolbox.com. If air is trapped in wood grain or an object that you are coating such as a sea shell, you will need to seal it properly or you will have constant bubbles that will not go away until you sand and recoat.
I hope this helps.
Have a great day!
Paul
@@paulstoolbox thanks, Paul! that is very good information. I went through a lot ad sandpaper on that countertop😥
What cement is used to be so white ?
I used Rapid Set mortar mix but it is gray in color. I painted it and used StoneCoat Epoxy for the marble look.
You have to be from New Orleans or close by. That's a familiar accent ..;)
Hey Paul, where did you get that flor de lis or was it hand drawn? WHO DAT!!!!
Hi Tony,
I used a wall decoration that I bought from Smith & Sons, it is an old local Hardware store with wood floors in downtown Covington La. This place has a lot of different and interesting things. The piece was made from tin, I pushed it down on the seat when I poured it to create a stamp design. I wanted this one to be inset and smooth because it is a shower seat. I poured a ledge for the back of my tub and I left the tin in the concrete and painted it. That ledge is mainly for looks so I wanted it to be raised for a 3 D look. You can see how I did that on this video. czcams.com/video/xQugjuucD0c/video.html Thanks Tony, it's always good to hear from you buddy! Who Dat Nation is gonna be strong this year!!!!!
Paul
How well does the epoxy hold up to water?👍
It holds up extremely well as long as you cover the entire exposed surface.
Thanks!
Hey I think I missed something 😖The concrete slab your doing this faux marble on , did you make that also or is that a purchased piece ? Thank you
Hi Michael, in the description box below or on the iPhone sometimes it’s on the right upper hand corner under the video, you’ll see an arrow pointing down. If you hit this arrow it will show you the description box. I have the video called one hour concrete top with logo. There is a link there that you can click on, shows the other video when I made those pieces out of concrete. It is very easy and cheap. I hope this helps, thanks!
Paul Ricalde thank you much & I finally found the tutorial for the concrete 🤗I love your detail given on all tutorials you do !!!
I really appreciate that Michael!
Don't get acetone on your skin. It goes straight to the liver. :(