Face it if you are getting grass information from YT instead of your extension service you are in trouble. Iron absorption only occurs in a very defined chemical reaction in the soil so iron efficacy is minimal and really only affects certain grass types like KBG. The “iron “ greening is a result of nitrogen pop in all these iron formulations. You typically want 5-8% organic content in a soil. It’s nearly impossible to achieve this important component in a clay soil without mechanical incorporation so it is prudent to core aerate, top dress and over seed in the fall to improve your soil. I have a TTTF lawn and I overseed every year because grass advances are introducing better quality grasses less susceptible to drought and disease. iMO it’s all about getting a lawn that requires the least amount of work
Somebody hold my beer... Let's face it, Blue Jay, all extension offices are not created equally. From what I can discern, they have poured nothing but misinformation into your mind, as almost all of the positions you have taken on this matter are incorrect. I have already addressed the first comment you made about extension offices being the only source of helpful information; let me continue highlighting your lack of understanding regarding agronomy and turf management. Iron is a micronutrient required for synthesizing chlorophyll (chlorophyll is the pigment that gives plants their green color). Although, nitrogen does promote the shade of green in your turf. Its primary function is to encourage growth by providing essential nucleic acids, amino acids, and proteins that affect the shoot and root growth of the plant (Landschoot, 2016). Professionals typically use Iron while reducing the volume of overall nitrogen and supplementing with an Iron product to maintain or even achieve a darker green. Most soil applications of Iron from inorganic sources are typically converted to iron hydroxides, iron phosphates, or iron carbonates, which are not readily available to the plant (Landschoot, 2016). This is why my brother Cam stressed the importance of using Chelated Iron (foliar applied) or EDDHA (typically soil-applied) sources of Iron. Another tidbit worth mentioning is that to achieve the full benefits of Iron for color and disease resistance, you want to ensure the ratio of Iron to Manganese is maintained at 3:1 ppm (Stowell & Gelernter, 2008). All of which mentioned above applies to ALL grass types. A caveat is that it is essential to select the appropriate cultivars that carry the desired attributes you are looking for, as stated by my brother Cam. Clay soil: The ideal percentage of organic matter desired in soil profiles for lawns is 2-3%, while agricultural practices are closer to 4-6% (Traunfeld, 2020). Furthermore, although mechanical aeration can expedite the process of integrating more organic matter if needed, it is not necessary. The most important and beneficial thing for clay soil is establishing a stand of turf and a fertilization program that promotes shoot and root development (organic matter). Over time, this will naturally correct and balance itself out. This highlights the importance of a soil test from a reputable and peer-reviewable source based on a measurable scale. Mechanical aeration's primary function is to provide temporary compaction relief to support rapid soil profile manipulation or seed beds for overseeding and renovations. Topdressing with organic materials such as compost is also helpful but does not require mechanical aeration. In my opinion, Blue Jay, you would benefit from learning more from some CZcamsrs and reading more scholarly articles outside your extension office. Unfortunately, I feel they are leading you astray. I completed the Master Gardeners program via the Maryland Extension office and wholeheartedly recommend the staff of Harford County as a reputable source of information if you continue to prefer extensions as your preferred source for information. Where's my beer? ✌🏾🌱 Scholarly References Landschoot, P. (2016, November 10). Turfgrass fertilization: A basic guide for professional turfgrass managers. Penn State Extension. Retrieved October 16, 2022, from extension.psu.edu/turfgrass-fertilization-a-basic-guide-for-professional-turfgrass-managers Strowell , L., & Gelernter, W. (2008, September 10). Prevent turf disease with manganese: Sportsfield management. SportsField Management | News & Information for Sports Field & Facilities Managers. Retrieved October 16, 2022, from sportsfieldmanagementonline.com/2008/09/11/prevent-turf-disease-with-manganese/4142/ Traunfeld, J. (2020, November). Organic matter and soil amendments. Organic Matter and Soil Amendments | University of Maryland Extension. Retrieved October 16, 2022, from extension.umd.edu/resource/organic-matter-and-soil-amendment
@@TurfTherapy My extension service is chaired by a soil scientist. Enough said. Iron. I can equally provide you with peer reviewed studies about iron. While chelated iron is better because the iron is part of N amino acid for the most part iron is not mobile in soil and is not absorbed into the foliage because it’s a huge molecule. Iron uptake is dictated by reduced chemical conditions therefore adding iron is useless because the vast majority of soil has excess iron already. The green pop from the iron boutique fertilizers is typically from urea. I’m not reading your treatise on organic matter. As someone who has worked in turf management for 40 + years I stand by what works. I also stand by my statement that YT lawn care for the most part is sold by people who have zero qualifications and zero science backed evidence. IMO if you want to destroy your soil microbiology follow the vast majority of YT lawn authorities
Please provide your cited sources when you have time. Rambling self-proclaimed prophets that cannot support their unfounded, misleading, or incomplete claims with cited sources have no value here.
@@TurfTherapy I’m not getting into a pissing contest with a person without a degree in soil science. Just randomly found a reference from someone I respect. Iron Chlorosis in Turfgrass Dr. Richard L. Duble Professor and Extension Turfgrass Specialist Texas A&M University “On alkaline soils, the recommended rates of application need to be increased to 2 or 3 times the lower recommended rates presently shown on product labels. As a homeowner, I would be disappointed in the observed response to lowest rates of application. Even at the 2x rate the observed response was disappointing. Also, it was significant to note that improvements in color with iron applications did not correspond to increases in grass clippings produced.” Although this was based on alkaline or high pH soil nite that iron absorption is only viable for acidic conditions plus other factors like organic matter, moisture etc Problem with you is you listen to only what product representatives and YT nerds say.’ My recommendation to you is go to school and learn about turf management. You should start YT content by providing your credentials. I don’t see a doctor who learned learned surgery from other YT influencers
@@bluejay3945 You made a lot of assumptions about my level of education and where I sourced my information. Also, your last post leaves me questioning whether you watched the video. Lastly, your poorly cited source only further proved my point, even though it was just an opinion and not based on science; it is merely an opinion. You are doing a terrible job of defending your uneducated views and position on turf management. And I am concerned for your clients. Not sure why you are even on my channel if you don't like lawn care CZcamsrs. I honestly feel bad for you, buddy. I'm going to leave this here as an example for any other cranky old timers that can’t stand the fact that they aren't the smartest in the room. ✌️🏾🌱
Long term community supporter. Watched it evolve to this and very happy to see people are bringing it to light. Content creators have been blocking comments for years now. Guess Super isnt as bad as they made this long term supporter appear to be. Love it. Let's keep this going.before it's all lawn infomercials. 👍
glad I stumbled across this video, it was rather refreshing to watch. One thing about seed germination I learned this past year is that adding hydrogen peroxide can soften the seed coat of older seeds and promote better germination by the addition of oxygen. Subscribed.👍
Thank you for the content provided. More people need to hear this and mainly learn for themselves. Great lawn. Also thank you for your service. Retired Infantry here (11B) and being retired I also have a passion for my lawn. New Sub here. Thanks
Thank you guys. I know most of the CZcams experts are touting buy this and buy that, mainly because they are getting a good and hefty commission off of sales. So thank you for sharing the truth.
@Turf, thank you so much for this video, I used to be one that listened to you tubers & I quickly figured out what’s going on-in the community! Self Knowledge is POWERFUL! Blessings my Brother… ✨✨✨!
I stumbled across your channel yesterday and what a find it was. One video was quickly followed by another, then another one, and so on. You make great videos. 🤩
My pet peeve. Here’s a picture of my cool season lawn in early August, look how bad it was. Here’s a picture of my lawn on October 1st, what an amazing job I did on my renovation. Pat me on the back! C’mon man, your lawn was going to recover no matter what you did. That’s what cool season lawns DO in the fall!
Quick question. A lot of us are not interested in scholarly education on agriculture. We are simply trying to make our lawns look nice. Applying iron will give your lawn a green pop. That’s just facts. So what’s the harm? Not trolling you, a genuine question. Thanks for all you do.
So what’s the harm? Theoretically, the only harm is wasted money due to lack of understanding in fundamental agronomy. You can apply Iron as much as you want but if don’t take the time to choose a quality seed it’s wasting money by chasing color. And as my man Cam said, all Iron products are not created equally. That’s just a fact. I guess shame on us for trying to educate and give rather than perform a slight of hand and get a sell.
I have peregrinated my KBG seed for two 2 consecutive weeks and after that I mix it with scotts turf builder lawn soil and brut worm casting and kept the seeds moist and a week later, the KBG has grow 2" inches
The only lawn in which the fall nitrogen blitz will work are KBG and Bermuda. Blitz it and cut twice a week and they’ll fill in. I did this to my thin KBG lawn in the spring and it’s super thick now in fall.
I can support the Bermuda statement wholeheartedly and the KBG if the areas aren’t greater than 4-6 inches for sure. Thanks for watching until the end! ✌️🏾🌱
Just found your channel, I dig it! People seem to forget that at the end of the grass is just any other plant... At the end of the day it will survive (and germinate) without chemicals or human contact. I'm trying to avoid the fertilizer route this year (which sucks) but my lawn will eventually be as green as the neighbors - just a hell of a lot more work
I'm sure someone has somewhere, but that's a bad idea. It's better to mix it with a few varieties because clover doesn't stand up to foot traffic well.
@@TurfTherapy Good deal! I just noticed that I wasn't using as much fertilizer in the back yard that has clover interspersed in with TTTF stays greener vs the front yard that is purely TTTF and Kentucky blue that requires frequent water and light monthly fertilizing
Love your point about patience when it comes to color and your point about aeration. I successfully renovated my hard clay soil backyard and my front parkway last year without aeration and they both have a rich dark color this year. I just renovated my front yard this year (also without aeration) and it is much lighter in color, but I know it will darken nicely next season. No need for iron.
You've got my attention and a new sub...new house build, lawn was total Reno TTTF, soil is horrific clay, cracks, hard as rock, grass has came in well but I'd like to hear your take on improving clay soil because I'm not happy with it.
@@TurfTherapy hey thanks for the reply. You do have a great lawn and I have been watching you this year. 😉 so not all youtube lawn gardeners are lying to me 😉 I would 95% agree with you water is the most important factor. I over seeded last week of August ( Western NY) with a mix of high quality rye and fescue. 6 days I had germination ( no fertilizer) by first week of October its just as lush as yours. The cable company comes by digs up my lawn laying fiber, in the first week of October (arrrggh) i throw the rest of the seed down with some good quality top soil. We are getting 40 degree nights and 15 days later not a single blade. I am an experienced lawn gardener, you have to have those nighttime temperatures above 55. It will germinate but I might not see it until spring.
Absolutely man. I agree that the temperature is important when germinating without a doubt. Heck there are some seeds I can’t get to grow without putting under a stratification process. I am thankful for your support, and man, I hate when the city decides to destroy a lawn 😞 But I think you're correct. You may not see it this fall, but you'll be in great shape in the spring.
I stumbled upon your channel. I started a zoysia channel last year for some of the same reasons. I think my focus this year will be showing people that doing the basics is all you need to have a nice yard you can enjoy. I got caught up in the CZcams hypes when I first got into lawncare a few years back before I learned that I was way overcomplicating it. It’s hard to compete with the big channels that are saying “you need to do this/use this” bc honestly I think that’s what most people want over being educated.
I think we are addicted to immediate gratification as a society. But my core values keep me grounded. I love to learn and I like to help others. If they don't, I'm simply not the content creator for them.
I am a new homeowner trying to figure out to take care of my lawn on a reasonable budget since it’s 2.5 acres. I am soo confused bc of all the lawn hype videos and keep wasting money. I would love a straight forward basics CZcams channel
Great video. I’ve definitely seen a spike in trends when it comes to CZcams lawn care. Especially around fall and spring seasons . The “algorithm” combined with the for profit nature of this hobby is a bad combination.
6:35 That's definitely true. I renovated last year and by the time some of the seedlings were 2" high(19 days post seeding), I still had bare patches. One month later it all simply filled in, I didn't toss any extra seed. Some seeds just germinate slower.
I'm in Germany too. Your lawn looks fabulous. How are you tackling weeds here, given the lack of access to things like pre-emergent? I did my first renovation this autumn and it is better than the weedpatch I had before but I still have broadleaf weeds coming throuugh with the new grass. I plan on hitting the lawn with Banvel Quattro in the spring when the weeds start groing again. Any thoughts?
I know it’s been awhile since I’ve commented but still watch the videos…and leave a like obviously 👍🏻. Good job on the video and I basically agree with all of it. The fall Nitrogen blitz is beneficial but you’re 1000% right when you say it doesn’t help with die off or thin lawns, that’s when overseeding is worth the money! Great video! Also when it comes to seed germination you don’t need to do a damn thing lol . That’s why I put starter fertilizer down “ AFTER “ germination!
Def want that video about clay soil. Definitely glad I stumbled across this video. Feel like all these lies are mainly told to people, by people, trying to sell them their own products.
Even though I agree with a lot of this, I think the putting down fert at seed down just isn't explained as to why it's done. Yes, grass seed will germinate on 1/16 of soil laying on concrete, but it won't survive. The seed does have everything it needs to germinate, but it needs nutrients not long after. Since you don't want to be walking on the lawn for 3-4 weeks after germination, having some nutrients available to the new grass in that very top layer of soil IS important. A "starter" fert covers that base. Iron is a personal color preference and is mostly artificial and short term anyway. That said, you also don't want iron deficiencies.
Absolutely brother! I was referring to the people saying XXXX “insert product” is what you need in order to help your seed germinate-strictly focusing on germination here. But after germination, of course, it needs adequate nutrients to thrive. Thanks For Watching ✌️🏾🌱
I'm currently in the middle of a fall nitro blitz, plus I reseeded mid September. Though my lawn is straight Bermuda grass. This is my first time attempting it and it's never looked better. This past summer was so hot here the grass wanted to go dormant, even with adequate watering. Can't wait to see how it looks next spring!
Bermuda may be the only exception for a fall nitrogen blitz replacing an overseed. But it seems as if you have done both. Happy to hear you have solid results, but be careful with that much nitrogen this late in the season, as whatever is remaining in the soil once it goes into dormancy will only feed the fall weeds. Also, it's worth noting my comments were directed to cool-season lawns just for clarity. Thanks for watching! 😄✌️🏾🌱
Aerating before seeding just doesn't make sense to me. Why do you want your seed 3 or 4 inches deep in the ground? Most seed labels state not to bury any deeper than 1/4".
I understand your position. I think the main benefit of aerating before seeding outside of temporarily relieving compaction is to create an excellent alternative for creating a seedbed for contractors and professionals with a lot of residential accounts. It would take them, on average, 2-3 times longer to dethatch and remove debris from lawns if they were to go that route. And when it comes to how much seed ends up buried too deep, I think for the amount of seed that is typically spread, it's a negligible risk worth taking for the odds of how many seeds end up nested in the 3/4” holes. I like your critical thinking none the less brother, and thanks for watching the video until the end 💪🏾✌️🏾🌱
I'd love to hear some tips on working with Clay soil. I'm in Missouri and and just bought this house and my yard is far from nice needs a lot of TLC and I've been researching
Finally I get to watch some positive how to do video about my favorite hobby with out somebody trying to sell you something . I felt this way for a long time I’m glad brother man through the first shot cause that’s the main reason I stop following those guys .
One question, man - who's working? LOL Nice cameo from Cam! Love that guy's lawn! And, new subscriber, but your neighborhood looks like Germany. Lived there for a good while after University way back in the day. Nice points. Lots and lots of "different gears" out there. Okay....I commented at the beginning....in the very end of this video, before the extra tips, you stated "in Germany". Apparently I still see the different German houses! Enjoy. EDITED AFTER HEARING YOU MAKE THAT COMMENT ABOUT "IN GERMANY"
I have bare spots from a guy who came out and dethatched my lawn when it was too hot. I questioned him about it and he said it would be ok. He lied. The grass died and left me bare spots. I was going to do the nitrogen blitz which i have seen from other yuotubers. What should i do to get my lawn thick and covered this coming fall?
I can honestly say I've never heard the other lawn guys (and the big names) on CZcams say when seeding you need starter fertilizer for seed germination. It's for root development after it germinates. Is it an absolute necessity? No, it's not. But it does help with root establishment more rapidly after germination. In fact, I've heard the big name guys on CZcams say they apply it a week after seeding. Not sure where you've gotten the word it is needed for the seed to germinate.
0:44 those lines from the tires i get those on my lawn too but they wont go away i got lines going in a star pattern from my 1 weekly mow i dont know what to do
Great video. Was over thinking about not aerating this year and just put my seed down. Lawn is looking good. And I didn't want add more seed to the slow growing areas. My thoughts were just that. I have some late bloomers, it will come in, and it has.
True, true, true, true, kinda maybe true, depends. Absolutely agree with the aerate myth. Personally I think it's more problematic than helpfull. I'll use a liquid agent for that. For seeding expose the dirt for good contact (pregerminate the seed) and presto.... for your last tip I'll offer this... if you have a spreading fescue or kbg....nitro blitz first. That might be enough. I've done that and I'll say in 8 out of 10 it was enough. The grass spread and filled in. There were a few locations where I had to resort to seed ultimately. Good video
I respect your opinion and perspective on the last comment/tip, especially since I did not define what my take on “adequate die-off” would resemble. For instance, if you have areas that are 6” inches in diameter or less and you have spreading cultivars, I'd say you should be ok with pushing growth, but anything more than that when dealing with cool-season lawns, I’d say, is a No-Go at this station. Thanks for the feedback and thanks for watching until the end 🤙🏾✌️🏾🌱
@@TurfTherapy ... true. That being said I have a test plot around 1800 sf in heavy shade. I used Bella kbg plugs. .. does very well in the shade. They recommended 6", or 12" or 18" spacing...I placed at 24" on center(I'm chesp). . After 1 full season the spacing has closed half the distance....I anticipate season 2 will fill in. I do spoon feed that area every 2 weeks during the spring and fall. I have another heavy shade (700sf) where I planted (seed) Beyond kbg. It's an aggressive spreader. I've got a few bear areas 2 to 3sf. If i can control the weeds this upcoming year... im going to see if the 'spread' fills the holes. I will be seeding some areas in the bigger sun areas come spring where the nitrogen blitz didn't work this year
@@jcs1758 Yea, bro, you have a lot more patience than the average novice these days, and the way the information I was referring to was presented was a quick and fast solution with misleading results. I'd say you both have a healthy approach and expectations of results. I commend you for exercising such tenacity and patience 💪🏾✌️🏾🌱
Thanks for the info. Feels like a big marketing scheme at times. Quick question, about your lawn. How low are you cutting? Looks like it’s been cut with a reel mower but I see you have a rotary. Nice lawn sir for real!!!
Hey buddy unfortunately yeah at times it does. Yeah I usually reel mow but because of the worm castings,I’ve switched back to rotary for the time being. When I was reel mowing, I had the front and back at 4/10” and the side at 6/10”. Thanks for watching mAn 💪🏾🌱
Want your thoughts if you have any on black beauty ultra. I really ripped it up as you prescribed this year major thatching aerate topsoil soil conditioning with Magical (want your thoughts on that too.
I've never seen Black Ultra Beauty in person and haven't ever read a label on a bag, so it's hard to say. I typically avoid products with “Magic” or “Miracle” in its description. It tends to be usually misleading. I would always start with a soil test that uses the Mehlich3 method. Ryan Knorr provides a solid one that's easy to interpret.
So big question I have. I see pre-germination in cheesecloth and a bucket of water then after a few day in soil & fertilizer to spread. Why not just pre-germinate in soil by keeping it moist?
Great question, and I’d like to caveat with this is just my opinion. I think for most people, it's not worth the time to pre-germinate. It's an easy process to mess up from germinating to spreading. Along with that, these newer cultivars are germinating much faster than what the label says on the bag when ideal conditions are met. But I think it has its place for sure. When trying to repair dog spots or ensure adequate time for grow-in before stressful climate conditions arise, I think it is a useful hack, but it has it's cons for sure. I hope this helps and remember this is just my opinion on the matter. ✌️🏾🌱
@@TurfTherapy I’m living in New York more specifically Long Island. I want to plant turf type tall fescue. I’m super new to the whole grass care process.
@@devindrasingh913 Ok perfect. First off. I'd recommend going with a Rye/KBG being that far north. You're going to need to spray again, most likely, so find your average last frost date and work from there. As soon as your soil temperatures hit 55° for 5-7 days, make your first application. Wait 2-3 weeks, then make your second application and seed on the same day (apply the glyphosate last, obviously, and skip watering for the first 24hrs). I recommend getting some mesotrione down to help manage the weeds. If you use mesotrione, apply that 2-3 days after seeding and second glyphosate application and water it in (no surfactant needed). I'll do a video on this late winter as well. I hope this helps, and thanks for watching.
@@devindrasingh913 They've done some fantastic things with these newer cultivars. And the rye/kbg mix will hold up better for the rest of the year, IMO. You can go with TTTF, though, but I would get a blend with some KBG in it as well.
Would love your clay soil video. At this point I’ve learned that all the gypsum’s and clay soil “busters” don’t do shit. Adding more organic material to the soil is the only way to break up clay. So I’ve come to the conclusion that aerate then top dress with compost would be the best way to incorporate organic matter? Let me know if I’m heading in the right direction, or if that’s more work than I need to do. PS my lawn is large so it I would break it up into small sections of this method since all at once would break me
@@TurfTherapy I have no clue how to measure it. I know it’s heavy enough clay that it gets super sloppy in the spring and takes multiple days to drain, then once it’s dry it cracks and looks like the salt flats. Those two things make me think heavy clay 🤷
Great information and video. Question about the mix of KBG, Fescue, and Perennial Rye: Have you had any issues with the Rye overpowering the fescue? I have seen blogs and videos of lawn gurus stating to avoid rye and fescue blends.
Great question. I have not seen any fratricide in my lawn because of this particular blend. It may be prevalent with specific cultivars, though. This lawn is only six months old, so I'll keep an eye out for this and will make a video about it if it does. Thanks for watching!
I enjoyed this video and learned a lot! There so much information out there and sometimes it’s hard to decipher what works and what doesn’t. Quick question for a transitional zone/warm season grass owner. I also have a weird mixture of tall fescue and Bermuda. In the fall should I start lowering my grass/mow height? I’m still mowing at the highest setting and the yard is so thick and pretty. Should it be lowered before winter because I’ve heard this from other people? Thanks!
Is your lawn predominantly Bermuda? If so, I would maintain it at a lower height of cut and kill the fescue. I am trying to put together why you would cut your lawn at its highest cut before I can give you the best advice.
@@TurfTherapy So I overseeded with tall fescue in the early spring and I actually now think it’s just a ton of stolons. I’ve only been cutting off the top part and I’ve gotten the best results this year. The yard has never looked thicker and prettier! So I would say it’s mostly fescue.
So, I saw the Fall nitrogen blitz video (that I believe) you're referencing. My town extended our water ban basically to the end of the year, and Scotts turf builder doesn't need to be watered in, so I'm trying the nitrogen blitz, and I'll overseed where needed in the spring next year. Sounds reasonable, right?
In short, this is a lie. I hate when people are so absolute about things. I immediately question the authenticity of the information as soon as it's spewed out. Of course, it is beneficial to recycle your clippings as much as possible and not bagging. But at the same time, if you were constantly recycling your clippings, you stand the chance of building up a Thatch layer thicker than a quarter inch. Once any lawn develops an organic thatch layer thicker than the quarter inch it can become detrimental to the lawn itself. Blocking water, penetration, and preventing nutrients from reaching the soil. You’ll know once your thatch layer has met this thickness because your ground will feel almost squishy like a sponge or by pulling a plug and inspecting it for yourself. I hope this helps you and thanks for watchin! ✌️🏾🌱
@@TurfTherapy Thanks for the reply. Problem is, down here, everyone seems to be an expert but when you ask detailed questions no one has any real answers. We get more rain down here yearly than any other county in the entire country so the grass always seems "spongy". I'll pull a core and check. Is the Spring or Fall the right time to de-thatch ? Also, I'll subscribe to ANYONE who has a yard that looks like yours and is offering content on how to help mine look similar !! Thanks again
There are a few reasons they may be doing it in the south. Assuming it's Bermuda grass, burning the grass can remove excessive thatch, organic matter, and encourage new tender growth. Thanks for watching 🌱
Good video, I agreed don’t go around listening to myth masters & become on yourself. I recommend just listen & do some research afterwards on what ever you heard your lawn needs from the experts. 😊
I'm not here to point fingers, only to clear the air on their missteps. But now that you know the truth; you can adjust as you see fit moving forward. Thanks for watching 💪🏾🌱
![Fall Lawn Fertilizer [Nitrogen before winter or not?]](/img/n.gif)
Face it if you are getting grass information from YT instead of your extension service you are in trouble.
Iron absorption only occurs in a very defined chemical reaction in the soil so iron efficacy is minimal and really only affects certain grass types like KBG. The “iron “ greening is a result of nitrogen pop in all these iron formulations.
You typically want 5-8% organic content in a soil. It’s nearly impossible to achieve this important component in a clay soil without mechanical incorporation so it is prudent to core aerate, top dress and over seed in the fall to improve your soil.
I have a TTTF lawn and I overseed every year because grass advances are introducing better quality grasses less susceptible to drought and disease. iMO it’s all about getting a lawn that requires the least amount of work
Somebody hold my beer...
Let's face it, Blue Jay, all extension offices are not created equally. From what I can discern, they have poured nothing but misinformation into your mind, as almost all of the positions you have taken on this matter are incorrect.
I have already addressed the first comment you made about extension offices being the only source of helpful information; let me continue highlighting your lack of understanding regarding agronomy and turf management.
Iron is a micronutrient required for synthesizing chlorophyll (chlorophyll is the pigment that gives plants their green color). Although, nitrogen does promote the shade of green in your turf. Its primary function is to encourage growth by providing essential nucleic acids, amino acids, and proteins that affect the shoot and root growth of the plant (Landschoot, 2016). Professionals typically use Iron while reducing the volume of overall nitrogen and supplementing with an Iron product to maintain or even achieve a darker green. Most soil applications of Iron from inorganic sources are typically converted to iron hydroxides, iron phosphates, or iron carbonates, which are not readily available to the plant (Landschoot, 2016). This is why my brother Cam stressed the importance of using Chelated Iron (foliar applied) or EDDHA (typically soil-applied) sources of Iron. Another tidbit worth mentioning is that to achieve the full benefits of Iron for color and disease resistance, you want to ensure the ratio of Iron to Manganese is maintained at 3:1 ppm (Stowell & Gelernter, 2008). All of which mentioned above applies to ALL grass types. A caveat is that it is essential to select the appropriate cultivars that carry the desired attributes you are looking for, as stated by my brother Cam.
Clay soil: The ideal percentage of organic matter desired in soil profiles for lawns is 2-3%, while agricultural practices are closer to 4-6% (Traunfeld, 2020). Furthermore, although mechanical aeration can expedite the process of integrating more organic matter if needed, it is not necessary. The most important and beneficial thing for clay soil is establishing a stand of turf and a fertilization program that promotes shoot and root development (organic matter). Over time, this will naturally correct and balance itself out. This highlights the importance of a soil test from a reputable and peer-reviewable source based on a measurable scale. Mechanical aeration's primary function is to provide temporary compaction relief to support rapid soil profile manipulation or seed beds for overseeding and renovations. Topdressing with organic materials such as compost is also helpful but does not require mechanical aeration.
In my opinion, Blue Jay, you would benefit from learning more from some CZcamsrs and reading more scholarly articles outside your extension office. Unfortunately, I feel they are leading you astray. I completed the Master Gardeners program via the Maryland Extension office and wholeheartedly recommend the staff of Harford County as a reputable source of information if you continue to prefer extensions as your preferred source for information.
Where's my beer? ✌🏾🌱
Scholarly References
Landschoot, P. (2016, November 10). Turfgrass fertilization: A basic guide for professional turfgrass managers. Penn State Extension. Retrieved October 16, 2022, from extension.psu.edu/turfgrass-fertilization-a-basic-guide-for-professional-turfgrass-managers
Strowell , L., & Gelernter, W. (2008, September 10). Prevent turf disease with manganese: Sportsfield management. SportsField Management | News & Information for Sports Field & Facilities Managers. Retrieved October 16, 2022, from sportsfieldmanagementonline.com/2008/09/11/prevent-turf-disease-with-manganese/4142/
Traunfeld, J. (2020, November). Organic matter and soil amendments. Organic Matter and Soil Amendments | University of Maryland Extension. Retrieved October 16, 2022, from extension.umd.edu/resource/organic-matter-and-soil-amendment
@@TurfTherapy My extension service is chaired by a soil scientist. Enough said.
Iron. I can equally provide you with peer reviewed studies about iron. While chelated iron is better because the iron is part of N amino acid for the most part iron is not mobile in soil and is not absorbed into the foliage because it’s a huge molecule. Iron uptake is dictated by reduced chemical conditions therefore adding iron is useless because the vast majority of soil has excess iron already. The green pop from the iron boutique fertilizers is typically from urea.
I’m not reading your treatise on organic matter. As someone who has worked in turf management for 40 + years I stand by what works.
I also stand by my statement that YT lawn care for the most part is sold by people who have zero qualifications and zero science backed evidence.
IMO if you want to destroy your soil microbiology follow the vast majority of YT lawn authorities
Please provide your cited sources when you have time. Rambling self-proclaimed prophets that cannot support their unfounded, misleading, or incomplete claims with cited sources have no value here.
@@TurfTherapy I’m not getting into a pissing contest with a person without a degree in soil science. Just randomly found a reference from someone I respect.
Iron Chlorosis in Turfgrass
Dr. Richard L. Duble
Professor and Extension Turfgrass Specialist
Texas A&M University
“On alkaline soils, the recommended rates of application need to be increased to 2 or 3 times the lower recommended rates presently shown on product labels. As a homeowner, I would be disappointed in the observed response to lowest rates of application. Even at the 2x rate the observed response was disappointing.
Also, it was significant to note that improvements in color with iron applications did not correspond to increases in grass clippings produced.”
Although this was based on alkaline or high pH soil nite that iron absorption is only viable for acidic conditions plus other factors like organic matter, moisture etc
Problem with you is you listen to only what product representatives and YT nerds say.’
My recommendation to you is go to school and learn about turf management.
You should start YT content by providing your credentials. I don’t see a doctor who learned learned surgery from other YT influencers
@@bluejay3945 You made a lot of assumptions about my level of education and where I sourced my information. Also, your last post leaves me questioning whether you watched the video. Lastly, your poorly cited source only further proved my point, even though it was just an opinion and not based on science; it is merely an opinion. You are doing a terrible job of defending your uneducated views and position on turf management. And I am concerned for your clients. Not sure why you are even on my channel if you don't like lawn care CZcamsrs. I honestly feel bad for you, buddy. I'm going to leave this here as an example for any other cranky old timers that can’t stand the fact that they aren't the smartest in the room. ✌️🏾🌱
Definitely worth 10 minutes of time for anyone working a lawn. Thanks for keeping things real Rob!
thanks man I appreciate that 💪🏾🌱
2 Lawn Care guys that keep it allll the way real!
@@Chi-TownToon I second that!
Many lies that were told have been brought to light in this video.
We Workin 💪🏾 💪🏾 💪🏾
My Guy 😎 We Workin 💪🏾💪🏾💪🏾
Long term community supporter. Watched it evolve to this and very happy to see people are bringing it to light. Content creators have been blocking comments for years now. Guess Super isnt as bad as they made this long term supporter appear to be. Love it. Let's keep this going.before it's all lawn infomercials. 👍
glad I stumbled across this video, it was rather refreshing to watch. One thing about seed germination I learned this past year is that adding hydrogen peroxide can soften the seed coat of older seeds and promote better germination by the addition of oxygen. Subscribed.👍
Glad to have you here! I'll buy that hydrogen peroxide hack for a dollar. I just might give it a try 😎🌱
Thank you for the content provided. More people need to hear this and mainly learn for themselves. Great lawn. Also thank you for your service. Retired Infantry here (11B) and being retired I also have a passion for my lawn. New Sub here. Thanks
Thanks Battle! 💪🏾🇺🇸🌱
Thank you guys. I know most of the CZcams experts are touting buy this and buy that, mainly because they are getting a good and hefty commission off of sales. So thank you for sharing the truth.
Love to see one of my people giving true knowledge and factual information that can be verified! Much success!
I appreciate you fam 🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾🌱
Great info, Turf (and Cam) on some common mistakes with lawn care and maintenance.
Thanks Battle! 💪🏾✌️🏾🌱
The turf therapist turns turf preacher
😂✊🏾🌱
Bishop T.T
@@PoloFieldsLawnService true story
@@PoloFieldsLawnService not the Bishop TT Jakes 😭😂😭😂
@Turf, thank you so much for this video, I used to be one that listened to you tubers & I quickly figured out what’s going on-in the community! Self Knowledge is POWERFUL! Blessings my Brother… ✨✨✨!
Blessing to you as well brother! 💪🏾🌱
I stumbled across your channel yesterday and what a find it was. One video was quickly followed by another, then another one, and so on. You make great videos. 🤩
🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾 THANK YOU FOR BEING HERE!
My pet peeve. Here’s a picture of my cool season lawn in early August, look how bad it was. Here’s a picture of my lawn on October 1st, what an amazing job I did on my renovation. Pat me on the back! C’mon man, your lawn was going to recover no matter what you did. That’s what cool season lawns DO in the fall!
😆🤣😂✌️🏾🌱
Message delivered!!! Straight FACTS!!! I sponsor this message 💯. WE WORKIN💪🏾🌱!!!
We Workkinnnnnn 💪🏾💪🏾💪🏾
Quick question. A lot of us are not interested in scholarly education on agriculture. We are simply trying to make our lawns look nice. Applying iron will give your lawn a green pop. That’s just facts. So what’s the harm? Not trolling you, a genuine question. Thanks for all you do.
So what’s the harm?
Theoretically, the only harm is wasted money due to lack of understanding in fundamental agronomy. You can apply Iron as much as you want but if don’t take the time to choose a quality seed it’s wasting money by chasing color. And as my man Cam said, all Iron products are not created equally. That’s just a fact. I guess shame on us for trying to educate and give rather than perform a slight of hand and get a sell.
I have peregrinated my KBG seed for two 2 consecutive weeks and after that I mix it with scotts turf builder lawn soil and brut worm casting and kept the seeds moist and a week later, the KBG has grow 2" inches
Nice!
The only lawn in which the fall nitrogen blitz will work are KBG and Bermuda. Blitz it and cut twice a week and they’ll fill in. I did this to my thin KBG lawn in the spring and it’s super thick now in fall.
I can support the Bermuda statement wholeheartedly and the KBG if the areas aren’t greater than 4-6 inches for sure. Thanks for watching until the end! ✌️🏾🌱
Just found your channel, I dig it! People seem to forget that at the end of the grass is just any other plant... At the end of the day it will survive (and germinate) without chemicals or human contact. I'm trying to avoid the fertilizer route this year (which sucks) but my lawn will eventually be as green as the neighbors - just a hell of a lot more work
has anyone ever just planted there entire lawn in white clover or interspersed clover in their lawn to naturally replenish nitrogen in their soil??
I'm sure someone has somewhere, but that's a bad idea. It's better to mix it with a few varieties because clover doesn't stand up to foot traffic well.
@@TurfTherapy Good deal! I just noticed that I wasn't using as much fertilizer in the back yard that has clover interspersed in with TTTF stays greener vs the front yard that is purely TTTF and Kentucky blue that requires frequent water and light monthly fertilizing
@@ea9373 Yea, if you don't mind the clover, it is a way. Not for everyone of course. Thanks for watching man ✌️🏾🌱
Love your point about patience when it comes to color and your point about aeration. I successfully renovated my hard clay soil backyard and my front parkway last year without aeration and they both have a rich dark color this year. I just renovated my front yard this year (also without aeration) and it is much lighter in color, but I know it will darken nicely next season. No need for iron.
Yeah, bro, just let it mature a bit. I bet you will see the color shift sooner than you think. Just feed the lawn as usual.
Amen bro! Great info, as always! Keep workin’!
I appreciate you! ✊🏾🌱
You've got my attention and a new sub...new house build, lawn was total Reno TTTF, soil is horrific clay, cracks, hard as rock, grass has came in well but I'd like to hear your take on improving clay soil because I'm not happy with it.
That video is coming soon! Thanks for watching ✌️🏾🌱
The turf looks great. My how that beautiful baby is growing and you had him working😄. Adorable baby Turf too cute.
😂🤣 He sure is! Thanks for coming by Sis ❤️🌱
You also need proper temperature to germinate seed.
That’s a fair point but also an assumed variable to the overall point I’m making here obviously.
@@TurfTherapy hey thanks for the reply. You do have a great lawn and I have been watching you this year. 😉 so not all youtube lawn gardeners are lying to me 😉 I would 95% agree with you water is the most important factor. I over seeded last week of August ( Western NY) with a mix of high quality rye and fescue. 6 days I had germination ( no fertilizer) by first week of October its just as lush as yours. The cable company comes by digs up my lawn laying fiber, in the first week of October (arrrggh) i throw the rest of the seed down with some good quality top soil. We are getting 40 degree nights and 15 days later not a single blade. I am an experienced lawn gardener, you have to have those nighttime temperatures above 55. It will germinate but I might not see it until spring.
Absolutely man. I agree that the temperature is important when germinating without a doubt. Heck there are some seeds I can’t get to grow without putting under a stratification process. I am thankful for your support, and man, I hate when the city decides to destroy a lawn 😞 But I think you're correct. You may not see it this fall, but you'll be in great shape in the spring.
I stumbled upon your channel.
I started a zoysia channel last year for some of the same reasons.
I think my focus this year will be showing people that doing the basics is all you need to have a nice yard you can enjoy.
I got caught up in the CZcams hypes when I first got into lawncare a few years back before I learned that I was way overcomplicating it.
It’s hard to compete with the big channels that are saying “you need to do this/use this” bc honestly I think that’s what most people want over being educated.
I think we are addicted to immediate gratification as a society. But my core values keep me grounded. I love to learn and I like to help others. If they don't, I'm simply not the content creator for them.
I am a new homeowner trying to figure out to take care of my lawn on a reasonable budget since it’s 2.5 acres. I am soo confused bc of all the lawn hype videos and keep wasting money. I would love a straight forward basics CZcams channel
Great video. I’ve definitely seen a spike in trends when it comes to CZcams lawn care. Especially around fall and spring seasons . The “algorithm” combined with the for profit nature of this hobby is a bad combination.
Agreed! It's Da Money 😉🌱
You did that on that lawn. I do want to over seed my lawn. So what do you do? I have bermuda grass here in Ga.
You should aim for that late spring next year. We will have lives discussing warm season grass this winter 😎✌️🏾🌱
6:35 That's definitely true. I renovated last year and by the time some of the seedlings were 2" high(19 days post seeding), I still had bare patches. One month later it all simply filled in, I didn't toss any extra seed. Some seeds just germinate slower.
Exactly! Just have to trust the process. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment 💪🏾🌱
Also depends on the grass type. Some seeds take longer or it could be rhizomes doing their magic.
@@IamMugs Yep, which is why I favor having a little kbg. A great knitter.
Yep Great Video Rob!
Thanks big dawg 💪🏾🌱
Good info again.
Glad To Help! 💪🏾🌱
I'm in Germany too. Your lawn looks fabulous. How are you tackling weeds here, given the lack of access to things like pre-emergent? I did my first renovation this autumn and it is better than the weedpatch I had before but I still have broadleaf weeds coming throuugh with the new grass. I plan on hitting the lawn with Banvel Quattro in the spring when the weeds start groing again. Any thoughts?
I know it’s been awhile since I’ve commented but still watch the videos…and leave a like obviously 👍🏻. Good job on the video and I basically agree with all of it. The fall Nitrogen blitz is beneficial but you’re 1000% right when you say it doesn’t help with die off or thin lawns, that’s when overseeding is worth the money! Great video! Also when it comes to seed germination you don’t need to do a damn thing lol . That’s why I put starter fertilizer down “ AFTER “ germination!
Glad to see you in the comments, brother! I hope all is well with you and I’m glad you enjoyed the video 💪🏾💪🏾💪🏾🌱
Def want that video about clay soil. Definitely glad I stumbled across this video. Feel like all these lies are mainly told to people, by people, trying to sell them their own products.
I'm glad you enjoyed the content, and I hope you decide to hang around! Not sure what the motives are, but if I was a betting man “It's Da Money” 😉🌱
Even though I agree with a lot of this, I think the putting down fert at seed down just isn't explained as to why it's done. Yes, grass seed will germinate on 1/16 of soil laying on concrete, but it won't survive. The seed does have everything it needs to germinate, but it needs nutrients not long after. Since you don't want to be walking on the lawn for 3-4 weeks after germination, having some nutrients available to the new grass in that very top layer of soil IS important. A "starter" fert covers that base. Iron is a personal color preference and is mostly artificial and short term anyway. That said, you also don't want iron deficiencies.
Absolutely brother! I was referring to the people saying XXXX “insert product” is what you need in order to help your seed germinate-strictly focusing on germination here. But after germination, of course, it needs adequate nutrients to thrive. Thanks For Watching ✌️🏾🌱
I'm currently in the middle of a fall nitro blitz, plus I reseeded mid September. Though my lawn is straight Bermuda grass. This is my first time attempting it and it's never looked better. This past summer was so hot here the grass wanted to go dormant, even with adequate watering. Can't wait to see how it looks next spring!
Bermuda may be the only exception for a fall nitrogen blitz replacing an overseed. But it seems as if you have done both. Happy to hear you have solid results, but be careful with that much nitrogen this late in the season, as whatever is remaining in the soil once it goes into dormancy will only feed the fall weeds. Also, it's worth noting my comments were directed to cool-season lawns just for clarity. Thanks for watching! 😄✌️🏾🌱
Yeah, fall nitro blitz is working for me, it’s looking great compared to 4 weeks ago, might need seed in a couple of spots but overall, I am happy☺️.
Spittin facts over here Rob!
You know, I’m trying my best out here, brother 💪🏾🌱
My guys thanks for speaking the truth. lawn care is not ROCKET SCIENCE.
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Aerating before seeding just doesn't make sense to me. Why do you want your seed 3 or 4 inches deep in the ground? Most seed labels state not to bury any deeper than 1/4".
I understand your position. I think the main benefit of aerating before seeding outside of temporarily relieving compaction is to create an excellent alternative for creating a seedbed for contractors and professionals with a lot of residential accounts. It would take them, on average, 2-3 times longer to dethatch and remove debris from lawns if they were to go that route. And when it comes to how much seed ends up buried too deep, I think for the amount of seed that is typically spread, it's a negligible risk worth taking for the odds of how many seeds end up nested in the 3/4” holes. I like your critical thinking none the less brother, and thanks for watching the video until the end 💪🏾✌️🏾🌱
I'd love to hear some tips on working with Clay soil. I'm in Missouri and and just bought this house and my yard is far from nice needs a lot of TLC and I've been researching
Will do! I'll cover this topic over the off-season. Thanks for watching!
Yes please tell us more about dealing with a clay lawn. Thanks.
Will do! I'll cover this during the offseason this year! Thanks for watching 💪🏾🌱
Finally I get to watch some positive how to do video about my favorite hobby with out somebody trying to sell you something . I felt this way for a long time I’m glad brother man through the first shot cause that’s the main reason I stop following those guys .
Glad you enjoyed it, brother 💪🏾🌱
I needed to hear the point on being patient !!! Some areas are thin but I’ll just wait.
Awesome! There's always the spring which is perfect for touch-up seeding.
Thanks Turf
You're very welcome ✌️🏾🌱
Good info. I agree if you aren’t learning, you aren’t moving forward
Complacency kills my brother! 💪🏾🌱
Enjoy & Educate I’m with you Rob! Learning loads!
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True Bro, you nailed it - marketing is a liar 😉
😉💪🏾🌱
So much truth in this video, awesome content.
Thanks for the feedback! Glad you enjoyed it 💪🏾🌱
Been a subscriber of "Elevated Lawnscapes" for a while now, and today... I added you as well
💪🏾
We Workin
Always great content
Thank You! 💪🏾🌱
One question, man - who's working? LOL Nice cameo from Cam! Love that guy's lawn! And, new subscriber, but your neighborhood looks like Germany. Lived there for a good while after University way back in the day. Nice points. Lots and lots of "different gears" out there. Okay....I commented at the beginning....in the very end of this video, before the extra tips, you stated "in Germany". Apparently I still see the different German houses! Enjoy. EDITED AFTER HEARING YOU MAKE THAT COMMENT ABOUT "IN GERMANY"
I have bare spots from a guy who came out and dethatched my lawn when it was too hot. I questioned him about it and he said it would be ok. He lied. The grass died and left me bare spots. I was going to do the nitrogen blitz which i have seen from other yuotubers. What should i do to get my lawn thick and covered this coming fall?
I can honestly say I've never heard the other lawn guys (and the big names) on CZcams say when seeding you need starter fertilizer for seed germination. It's for root development after it germinates. Is it an absolute necessity? No, it's not. But it does help with root establishment more rapidly after germination. In fact, I've heard the big name guys on CZcams say they apply it a week after seeding. Not sure where you've gotten the word it is needed for the seed to germinate.
Sounds like you’re subscribed to some good CZcamsrs that aren’t spreading information!
Quality programming. You 've earned my sub
Glad to have you 💪🏾🌱
0:44 those lines from the tires i get those on my lawn too but they wont go away
i got lines going in a star pattern from my 1 weekly mow i dont know what to do
Change your mowing pattern every other mow, and don't mow while the ground is over-saturated. They are only temporary.
Great video. Was over thinking about not aerating this year and just put my seed down. Lawn is looking good. And I didn't want add more seed to the slow growing areas. My thoughts were just that. I have some late bloomers, it will come in, and it has.
That's awesome, Grace! I'm glad it's working out for you this season ❤️🌱
True, true, true, true, kinda maybe true, depends. Absolutely agree with the aerate myth. Personally I think it's more problematic than helpfull. I'll use a liquid agent for that. For seeding expose the dirt for good contact (pregerminate the seed) and presto.... for your last tip I'll offer this... if you have a spreading fescue or kbg....nitro blitz first. That might be enough. I've done that and I'll say in 8 out of 10 it was enough. The grass spread and filled in. There were a few locations where I had to resort to seed ultimately.
Good video
I respect your opinion and perspective on the last comment/tip, especially since I did not define what my take on “adequate die-off” would resemble. For instance, if you have areas that are 6” inches in diameter or less and you have spreading cultivars, I'd say you should be ok with pushing growth, but anything more than that when dealing with cool-season lawns, I’d say, is a No-Go at this station. Thanks for the feedback and thanks for watching until the end 🤙🏾✌️🏾🌱
@@TurfTherapy ... true. That being said I have a test plot around 1800 sf in heavy shade. I used Bella kbg plugs. .. does very well in the shade. They recommended 6", or 12" or 18" spacing...I placed at 24" on center(I'm chesp). . After 1 full season the spacing has closed half the distance....I anticipate season 2 will fill in. I do spoon feed that area every 2 weeks during the spring and fall. I have another heavy shade (700sf) where I planted (seed) Beyond kbg. It's an aggressive spreader. I've got a few bear areas 2 to 3sf. If i can control the weeds this upcoming year... im going to see if the 'spread' fills the holes.
I will be seeding some areas in the bigger sun areas come spring where the nitrogen blitz didn't work this year
@@jcs1758 Yea, bro, you have a lot more patience than the average novice these days, and the way the information I was referring to was presented was a quick and fast solution with misleading results. I'd say you both have a healthy approach and expectations of results. I commend you for exercising such tenacity and patience 💪🏾✌️🏾🌱
Thanks for the info. Feels like a big marketing scheme at times. Quick question, about your lawn. How low are you cutting? Looks like it’s been cut with a reel mower but I see you have a rotary. Nice lawn sir for real!!!
Hey buddy unfortunately yeah at times it does. Yeah I usually reel mow but because of the worm castings,I’ve switched back to rotary for the time being. When I was reel mowing, I had the front and back at 4/10” and the side at 6/10”. Thanks for watching mAn 💪🏾🌱
First time seeing your videos recommended I enjoyed it!
Thanks, Joe! Glad you like it🌱
Do you have a step by step video on pre germination?
I don't. Maybe I'll do one this spring.
Want your thoughts if you have any on black beauty ultra. I really ripped it up as you prescribed this year major thatching aerate topsoil soil conditioning with Magical (want your thoughts on that too.
I've never seen Black Ultra Beauty in person and haven't ever read a label on a bag, so it's hard to say. I typically avoid products with “Magic” or “Miracle” in its description. It tends to be usually misleading. I would always start with a soil test that uses the Mehlich3 method. Ryan Knorr provides a solid one that's easy to interpret.
WOW!!! You better PREACH!!! One of the BEST lawn care videos I’ve seen! Honest, straightforward and to the point!! 💯🎯
Keep ‘em coming 💪🏾🌱
Glad you enjoyed it! I appreciate you taking the time to drop me a line of encouragement 💪🏾🌱
So big question I have. I see pre-germination in cheesecloth and a bucket of water then after a few day in soil & fertilizer to spread. Why not just pre-germinate in soil by keeping it moist?
Great question, and I’d like to caveat with this is just my opinion. I think for most people, it's not worth the time to pre-germinate. It's an easy process to mess up from germinating to spreading. Along with that, these newer cultivars are germinating much faster than what the label says on the bag when ideal conditions are met. But I think it has its place for sure. When trying to repair dog spots or ensure adequate time for grow-in before stressful climate conditions arise, I think it is a useful hack, but it has it's cons for sure. I hope this helps and remember this is just my opinion on the matter. ✌️🏾🌱
I pre-germinate my seeds in a giant stein of Paulaner 🍺
Preach!!! 💪🏾🌱
Awesome video. I recently killed off my back yard but didn’t realize it’s too late to plant grass. Any suggestions for planting in spring?
Where are you, and what type of grass are you trying to grow?
@@TurfTherapy I’m living in New York more specifically Long Island. I want to plant turf type tall fescue. I’m super new to the whole grass care process.
@@devindrasingh913 Ok perfect. First off. I'd recommend going with a Rye/KBG being that far north. You're going to need to spray again, most likely, so find your average last frost date and work from there. As soon as your soil temperatures hit 55° for 5-7 days, make your first application. Wait 2-3 weeks, then make your second application and seed on the same day (apply the glyphosate last, obviously, and skip watering for the first 24hrs). I recommend getting some mesotrione down to help manage the weeds. If you use mesotrione, apply that 2-3 days after seeding and second glyphosate application and water it in (no surfactant needed). I'll do a video on this late winter as well. I hope this helps, and thanks for watching.
@@TurfTherapy thank you, I’ll look into the rye more, I want the lawn to withstand summer better than my last grass. I appreciate the help.
@@devindrasingh913 They've done some fantastic things with these newer cultivars. And the rye/kbg mix will hold up better for the rest of the year, IMO. You can go with TTTF, though, but I would get a blend with some KBG in it as well.
Congrats on 10k subs. 🍻
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Great video 😊. Hello from Ireland
Hello 😄✌️🏾🌱
Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!!! 🌱
Great video! I’m interested to hear your take on how you manage clay soil.
Glad you enjoyed it! Video managing clay soil is coming soon 🤙🏾🌱
What channels are you watching that have this advice?
Would love your clay soil video. At this point I’ve learned that all the gypsum’s and clay soil “busters” don’t do shit. Adding more organic material to the soil is the only way to break up clay. So I’ve come to the conclusion that aerate then top dress with compost would be the best way to incorporate organic matter? Let me know if I’m heading in the right direction, or if that’s more work than I need to do. PS my lawn is large so it I would break it up into small sections of this method since all at once would break me
What's your current level of organic matter?
@@TurfTherapy I have no clue how to measure it. I know it’s heavy enough clay that it gets super sloppy in the spring and takes multiple days to drain, then once it’s dry it cracks and looks like the salt flats. Those two things make me think heavy clay 🤷
@@joe1071 soil test bro
@@TurfTherapy should’ve know that lol. Thanks for the refresher
@@TurfTherapy what do you do if it’s low organic matter?
where do you get your seed from in Germany?
I ordered this seed from Rasenwelt.de
EL + TT COLLAB?!?! 🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥 LETS GOO
Let's Gooo! We Workin 💪🏾🌱
Great information and video. Question about the mix of KBG, Fescue, and Perennial Rye: Have you had any issues with the Rye overpowering the fescue? I have seen blogs and videos of lawn gurus stating to avoid rye and fescue blends.
Great question. I have not seen any fratricide in my lawn because of this particular blend. It may be prevalent with specific cultivars, though. This lawn is only six months old, so I'll keep an eye out for this and will make a video about it if it does. Thanks for watching!
Great facts and backed up with solid examples.
Much appreciated!
Interesting information. Got to try this! Thanos
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Man I should have seen this before I brought that iron 🤣🤣🤣
😂😂😂
I enjoyed this video and learned a lot! There so much information out there and sometimes it’s hard to decipher what works and what doesn’t. Quick question for a transitional zone/warm season grass owner. I also have a weird mixture of tall fescue and Bermuda. In the fall should I start lowering my grass/mow height? I’m still mowing at the highest setting and the yard is so thick and pretty. Should it be lowered before winter because I’ve heard this from other people? Thanks!
Is your lawn predominantly Bermuda? If so, I would maintain it at a lower height of cut and kill the fescue. I am trying to put together why you would cut your lawn at its highest cut before I can give you the best advice.
@@TurfTherapy So I overseeded with tall fescue in the early spring and I actually now think it’s just a ton of stolons. I’ve only been cutting off the top part and I’ve gotten the best results this year. The yard has never looked thicker and prettier! So I would say it’s mostly fescue.
Yes on the clay soil vid!
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So, I saw the Fall nitrogen blitz video (that I believe) you're referencing. My town extended our water ban basically to the end of the year, and Scotts turf builder doesn't need to be watered in, so I'm trying the nitrogen blitz, and I'll overseed where needed in the spring next year. Sounds reasonable, right?
For Sure! Whichever way you need to get it done go for it. Just wanted it to be clear that Nitrogen does not fix a lawn that needs an overseed.
For Centipede in southern Alabama I have been told to never bag when mowing. Also being told to not de-thatch. Is this a "truth" or "lie" ?
In short, this is a lie. I hate when people are so absolute about things. I immediately question the authenticity of the information as soon as it's spewed out. Of course, it is beneficial to recycle your clippings as much as possible and not bagging. But at the same time, if you were constantly recycling your clippings, you stand the chance of building up a Thatch layer thicker than a quarter inch. Once any lawn develops an organic thatch layer thicker than the quarter inch it can become detrimental to the lawn itself. Blocking water, penetration, and preventing nutrients from reaching the soil. You’ll know once your thatch layer has met this thickness because your ground will feel almost squishy like a sponge or by pulling a plug and inspecting it for yourself. I hope this helps you and thanks for watchin! ✌️🏾🌱
@@TurfTherapy Thanks for the reply. Problem is, down here, everyone seems to be an expert but when you ask detailed questions no one has any real answers.
We get more rain down here yearly than any other county in the entire country so the grass always seems "spongy". I'll pull a core and check. Is the Spring or Fall the right time to de-thatch ?
Also, I'll subscribe to ANYONE who has a yard that looks like yours and is offering content on how to help mine look similar !! Thanks again
Thanks for the info it took me a long time to realize that
You're welcome ✌️🏾🌱
We need that clay soil video. Thanks for the info.
Will do! 🤙🏾🌱
My brotha!! That grass looking good bro!! 🤤🔥😳
Thanks bruh! 😉💪🏾🌱
Thanks for a great video. Love the examples you showed everyone in your video of your own lawn. It's always great seeing results and facts.
Thanks man. I appreciate the feedback and thanks for watching 💪🏾🌱
Yeah I want that clay video
Will do 😎
Great information and video concept
Thanks Bruh Bruh! 💪🏾🌱
Great video. 👍
Thanks bro 💪🏾🌱
Why do some people burn their lawns? At least I’ve seen this done in the South but never knew why!
There are a few reasons they may be doing it in the south. Assuming it's Bermuda grass, burning the grass can remove excessive thatch, organic matter, and encourage new tender growth. Thanks for watching 🌱
Good truthful video bud! Take care of there!!
Thanks, glad you enjoyed it! 🤙🏾🌱
Eh, this great video! Is thet Corkky butchkin I hear play becground?!! He #1 musician, all Kahzahkstan!🇰🇿🎶
Nope it’s not Corkky but I’m glad you enjoyed the video!
Preach!!! Spot on brother!
Thanks brotha 💪🏾✌️🏾🌱
Thanks again for sharing this video .
You're welcome ❤️🌱
Yo I'm about to try this fall nitrogen blitz you mentioned. I think it'll work. It sounds amazing.
Bless your heart
Good video, I agreed don’t go around listening to myth masters & become on yourself. I recommend just listen & do some research afterwards on what ever you heard your lawn needs from the experts. 😊
Say it again for the people in the back!!!
Fertilizer damages the soil which is where the life is. I try to avoid using synthetic fertilizers at all costs. Life is in the soil.
Please provide a scholarly source for this information you claim.
I just buy everything from big box stores
That'll do it! 💪🏾🌱
Which CZcamsrs are lying to us? So I can exclude their videos
I'm not here to point fingers, only to clear the air on their missteps. But now that you know the truth; you can adjust as you see fit moving forward. Thanks for watching 💪🏾🌱
Keep the videos coming! Great info! Let me go shop vac all that nitrogen back up! lol
🤣😂🤣 That's funny. Thanks for watching 🤙🏾🌱
Please do clay soil video
Will do 💪🏾🌱
I just subscribed, Cause I just want to enjoy the mow with out the BS
Thanks for deciding to hang around, bro! Always transparent over here 💪🏾🌱
@@TurfTherapy NP bro ,just do your thing & I’ll keep watching😎👍🏽
Awesome video. You earned a new subscriber.
Nice! I hope you enjoy the content 💪🏾🌱