Just a few thoughts about the encoder after servicing some myself. I know everyone hates the wobble, but it is not the plastic shaft it is the way the top is mounted to the base. Those small metal clamps tend to losen over time and thus the whole top can rock. That is purely because Elektron chose to not panel mount the Encoders, why is beyond me. They have a perfectly fine thread , but they are mounted to low to grab the enclosure. Raising them would do the trick. Metal shaft mounted that low wobbles and rocks the exact same way, also metal shaft is way more prone to decay. These here will last much longer than the battery , one just needs to figure out a way to improve mounting.
Have you seen this plate on the Analog four? farm9.static.flickr.com/8221/8418289099_8ce5e3d14c_b.jpg I'm going to have some laser cut for the OT. It's probably not as good as panel mounting but much better than stock.
@@ajrodriguez5305 actually I just changed one encoder of my OT (in big part thanks to your video, BTW ;) ) and it happen to have that plate already ! So I guess a generation of OT already had it (it's an MKI as well)
thank you very much for that vid. My repair was much easier, just had to reposition a wobbling encoder. I 'd never tried to fix it myself without a preview of what was going inside
I fear to lack vocabulary to explain that in english (sorry for the one who asked before) It's actually pretty obvious to see what to do when the beast is open. Pots are not screwed just maintained with thin metal sticks (a bit like pins but nothing solded either) folded at 90° behind another part. Usually you just need to reposition that so it font move anymore. Hope it will help, that's all i remember. Maybe there's a more durable way to fix it really but except glue that would be a Bad Idea for the future, i dont see.
Hey there, thanks for sharing the part number, I've been looking for it everywhere. I was wondering if you might know the metal shaft alternatives? I know the mk2's use metal shaft, but I'm not sure if it's the same footprint/specs, and I don't know the part number to begin with. any help would be much appreciated!
I'm glad you dig it! I don't know about the metal shaft types or the MK II parts, but I'd love to see the inside of a MK II machine. If you have one and could open it up to take photos for me that'd be awesome.
I actually have the Mk1, I just wanted to swap them out with metal shafts. But I learned that the encoders on the MK2's are high resolution (possibly even optical, like the Monome Arc's), so they definitely wouldn't fit with the MK1. I emailed Bourns to see if they can dig up the same footprint with metal shaft. also a longer bushing would be awesome too, as then you can secure the encoder to the front panel. it'd make a big difference. I'll let you know, if they can give me a part number.
Ah I gotcha. Well on the plus side, if something gets hit or bumped, then the plastic shaft takes the damage instead of the board. Check this photo of an A4 opened up imgur.com/a/pT5w0 . They use a metal plate to secure all of the encoders using the bushings/nuts. It's under the front panel, but it seems effective. I was thinking of having one made for the OT...by one of those online laser cutting services. I'll be re-doing this video, and also showing a trig repair with the part number for the trigs!
You're welcome! I think they are the same. Here's a post that helped me a lot and it's for a Monomachine elektron-users.com/index.php?option=com_fireboard&Itemid=28&func=view&catid=9&id=115141
I had one of my main output jacks snap on me recently (MKII, not MKI) & break below where the nut attaches. Any chance someone can identify what type of jack I would need to replace it? Thanks for the wonderful video, I feel a little less worried about the prospects of opening mine up to operate now.
thanks! It SHOULD be similar and maybe easier since there are less contacts to desolder/solder, but I don't know the replacement part...let me know if you find out what the part is!
I spoke to Elektron and they can send me the part - I really want to try and do it myself but they said there's a good chance I could damage the board if I'm clumsy!
A professional could probably do it under 5 mins (especially if you dissemble it for them) and they shouldn't charge too much. I was nervous while doing mine! I wrote to Elektron asking about the part number and I'm hoping they share it with me. Let me know how it works out!
Hi, thanks for the video. Do you happen to know what the master volume pot part number is? I’m going to repair an encoder on my A4 mk1 but the master volume knob is also having problems but it’s not the same as the other knobs (which are encoders rather than pots i think). Also did you need any special tools to open the box besides Phillips head screw drivers? Thanks!
I'm going to do another video soon demonstrating an easier method. I'll be using a product called "ChipQuik" and I'm also going to show how to replace the trigs (along with the part). To open the box you need a 2mm hex key, and to remove the board you need a T10 torx key. I don't know the part number for the volume pot, but I did a little searching just now and I think I'm getting close- looks pretty similar yeah? www.alps.com/prod/info/E/HTML/Potentiometer/RotaryPotentiometers/RK14K12/RK14K12D0A1X.html
I used a WES51 50/60W. I assume the solder is lead-free since it's European which requires higher temps. I recommend using Chip Quik or Indium, and desoldering braids for easy removal of the old part.
After replacing the encoders, the push action does not work in two of them. I can feel the push is working, but when I try to turn it with the push function, it does not move faster in the interface. Any ideas?, btw thank for you video
If you mean the plastic caps, just pull firmly and carefully. If you mean the actual pots, you have to desolder them. I recommend this product to desolder them easily www.chipquik.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=220001
My T7 button seems to be failing. It looks like when pressing once it works but pressing twice seems like stacked and not responding, therefore can't swap between tracks and edit them. When pressing function it works fine tho. Any ideas?
I would replace the button switch. I hope to make a video for the trigs/buttons...until then, here's the part: www.smallcab.net/micro-switch-soldering-pr-1667.html It's cool, all of the buttons actually use arcade switches. It's either a Tokai or Seimitsu MM9-2, but that's the part. It was a hell of a hunt to find, but I lucked out.
Curious to why the original encoder had to be pulled apart and destroyed. Couldn't it have just been desoldered and removed? just the reverse of how the new one is installed? Great video by the way, i'm about to order some encoders. cheers :)
It´s often enough to open up an encoder, clean it with Deoxid for Faders and a cottonswab and close it again. Most likely it will go on working for a significant time. Exchange is always possible later. Sometimes difficult when a type of encoder is hard to find. And expensive. Some instruments have a lot of encoders and just a couple of pots. Exchanging them all is no fun.
I tried that exact thing the first time. I opened it and used Deoxit to clean, then Fadergrease to restore the proper feeling, and closed it back up, but it was loose and wobbly and this encoder is twisted and pressed in a lot, so a solid feel is the needed. It simply can't be closed back to the factory tightness. Luckily the encoder is easy to find (link in description) , it's only about $2.00, and it's pretty easy to replace. I think it might be possible to use the Faderlube and solder the metal tabs to the body. Maybe they wouldn't be loose that way.
@@ajrodriguez5305 I did that with a Waldorf Q and a Novation Nova Desktop. I was succesful. With the Nova, although I ordered some replacement, I tried cleaning them first. They were pretty bad, always jumping values. After that they were good again. Dunno how long, but I am glad I did not replace them at once. For the Waldorf I did not even look out for new ones. Works fine now. But, they were pretty easy to close again. They have metal-brackets, was not too difficult to give them a tight fit again.
@@MidiFister Interesting. If it's very rare I wouldn't worry, but I googled the encoder part and found this: reverb.com/item/27739167-elektron-digitakt-encoder-potentiometer-replacement it looks like it's made by Alpha and it's probably pretty cheap like the OT encoder
I highly recommend getting some proper chisel tips instead of the very long, thin pencil tip you show. Pencil tips are kinda terrible to begin with, and long ones are even worse since heat transfer is awful. (I find it unfortunate that so many soldering stations include pencil tips by default.)
Which potentiometer? For the Octatrack encoders, don't use anything. Cleaning the encoders will remove the damping grease. I don't think the volume pot has grease. If you need to know what to use for potentiometers in general, Deoxit is a good brand, and they make cleaners and lubricants for different components.
@@CartoonCityKid Yes i am talking about the 6 encoders.two on them when i turn it , it sometimes stayes on the same number and kind of jumps after when it moves. What can be the solution ? It works but as i said sometimes jumpes or stayes on the same number... Please let me know. Thank you !
@LADOOOO123 The best solution would be to replace the encoders. They're very inexpensive, but if you don't feel comfortable doing that, a pro should be able to do it for a good price =) If you clean them, it might fix the issue, but the grease would get cleaned out. That grease gives the encoders a smooth feeling.
If you use ChipQuik, you can remove it in one piece. Elektron recommended to cut it up so that each leg could be desoldered individually. It's not glued on though, and the 2 larger legs are what hold it in place before soldering.
Plated through-hole joints are extremely difficult (often impossible) to clear using solder wick when the pin is still inside the hole, since any place the pin contacts the hole plating will be held by a small amount of solder. Continuous-vacuum desoldering equipment (with proper technique, meaning keeping the pin in motion while cooling it down with vacuum, so it can't reconnect) can do it, but if you don't have that equipment, then cutting the pins so you can desolder them one by one and pluck them out, followed by clearing the hole with solder wick, is the best way to remove multi-pin devices. (If you need to reuse the desoldered part, then continuous-vacuum desoldering is usually the only option. Another is a large desoldering tip that's a block with a well for each pin, allowing you to heat all the pins simultaneously. But these aren't really made anymore, and each tip is specific to the exact device you're desoldering.)
The encoders are available here www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/PEC16-4020F-S0024?R=0virtualkey0virtualkeyPEC16-4020F-S0024 but if you mean the plastic caps, I don't know about those.
@@TrustNoShadows Well no, you're not repairing the encoder (on the contrary, the first step is to completely destroy it). You're replacing it. FYI, Deoxit sells thick grease specifically for pots and encoders.
I have a couple of wobbly ones too. Is it not possible to simply un-solder them? Why did you cut it apart on the board? I'd be very hesitant to do that myself if it's the only way.
A brand new encoder only costs $1.38 so I didn't mind cutting it apart. I cut it apart so I can unsolder 1 pin at a time; there are 7 pins and it's nearly impossible to unsolder them all at once. It would be possible if you use something called "chipquik" though.
When you cut it, you can desolder and remove each pin individually. It's difficult to remove them together because the solder needs to stay liquid. Look for "Chip Quik" to remove with no cutting =)
Thank you for recording this process 👌🏽 it was painful to watch...like watching someone get their tooth pulled lol
Great job on the video. This makes me feel much more brave. Funny how no one has come through with mkII photo. Not yet willing to void the warranty.
Gold mine of info! I just wanted to see what the inside looks like but knew I could never find good info online. Boy was my pessimism wrong...
Allen hex key 2mm for the faceplate and Torx T10 for the main board
Just a few thoughts about the encoder after servicing some myself.
I know everyone hates the wobble, but it is not the plastic shaft it is the way the top is mounted to the base.
Those small metal clamps tend to losen over time and thus the whole top can rock.
That is purely because Elektron chose to not panel mount the Encoders, why is beyond me.
They have a perfectly fine thread , but they are mounted to low to grab the enclosure.
Raising them would do the trick.
Metal shaft mounted that low wobbles and rocks the exact same way, also metal shaft is way more prone to decay.
These here will last much longer than the battery , one just needs to figure out a way to improve mounting.
Have you seen this plate on the Analog four? farm9.static.flickr.com/8221/8418289099_8ce5e3d14c_b.jpg
I'm going to have some laser cut for the OT. It's probably not as good as panel mounting but much better than stock.
@@ajrodriguez5305 actually I just changed one encoder of my OT (in big part thanks to your video, BTW ;) ) and it happen to have that plate already ! So I guess a generation of OT already had it (it's an MKI as well)
Thanks so much for the part info
thank you very much for that vid. My repair was much easier, just had to reposition a wobbling encoder. I 'd never tried to fix it myself without a preview of what was going inside
What was needed to fix a wobbly encoder? Did you tighten the pins?
I'd also like to know how you did this?
how did you fix the wobble? got that issue now! with a digitakt tho!
I fear to lack vocabulary to explain that in english (sorry for the one who asked before) It's actually pretty obvious to see what to do when the beast is open. Pots are not screwed just maintained with thin metal sticks (a bit like pins but nothing solded either) folded at 90° behind another part. Usually you just need to reposition that so it font move anymore. Hope it will help, that's all i remember. Maybe there's a more durable way to fix it really but except glue that would be a Bad Idea for the future, i dont see.
@@TheScherzoteller no that's good enough thanks! Just hoping I don't have to replace the entire encoder! will try this first!
please make more videos, this was awesome
I have another one planned! =)
Thank you very much for the tuto
this is gold! thanks alot!
I kept the base on the board and cleaned it .then i just changed the top part from the spare poti. totally worked out for me. no soldering necessary.
Hey there, thanks for sharing the part number, I've been looking for it everywhere. I was wondering if you might know the metal shaft alternatives? I know the mk2's use metal shaft, but I'm not sure if it's the same footprint/specs, and I don't know the part number to begin with. any help would be much appreciated!
I'm glad you dig it! I don't know about the metal shaft types or the MK II parts, but I'd love to see the inside of a MK II machine. If you have one and could open it up to take photos for me that'd be awesome.
I actually have the Mk1, I just wanted to swap them out with metal shafts. But I learned that the encoders on the MK2's are high resolution (possibly even optical, like the Monome Arc's), so they definitely wouldn't fit with the MK1. I emailed Bourns to see if they can dig up the same footprint with metal shaft. also a longer bushing would be awesome too, as then you can secure the encoder to the front panel. it'd make a big difference. I'll let you know, if they can give me a part number.
Ah I gotcha. Well on the plus side, if something gets hit or bumped, then the plastic shaft takes the damage instead of the board.
Check this photo of an A4 opened up imgur.com/a/pT5w0 . They use a metal plate to secure all of the encoders using the bushings/nuts. It's under the front panel, but it seems effective. I was thinking of having one made for the OT...by one of those online laser cutting services.
I'll be re-doing this video, and also showing a trig repair with the part number for the trigs!
Thanks!
Your video helped me. So Good~!!
I wonder if the Monomachine and MachineDrum encoders are the same as the Octatrack encoders?
You're welcome! I think they are the same. Here's a post that helped me a lot and it's for a Monomachine elektron-users.com/index.php?option=com_fireboard&Itemid=28&func=view&catid=9&id=115141
Thanks a lot~~!!
I had one of my main output jacks snap on me recently (MKII, not MKI) & break below where the nut attaches. Any chance someone can identify what type of jack I would need to replace it? Thanks for the wonderful video, I feel a little less worried about the prospects of opening mine up to operate now.
Take photos and post them on reddit. Someone should help you ID the part
Hi - nice one on the video - very clear! I need to replace one of my trig buttons - is it essentially the same process?
thanks! It SHOULD be similar and maybe easier since there are less contacts to desolder/solder, but I don't know the replacement part...let me know if you find out what the part is!
I spoke to Elektron and they can send me the part - I really want to try and do it myself but they said there's a good chance I could damage the board if I'm clumsy!
A professional could probably do it under 5 mins (especially if you dissemble it for them) and they shouldn't charge too much. I was nervous while doing mine! I wrote to Elektron asking about the part number and I'm hoping they share it with me. Let me know how it works out!
They responded but no luck. If you could take multiple photos of the part and post them online, that would rock!
Hi, thanks for the video. Do you happen to know what the master volume pot part number is? I’m going to repair an encoder on my A4 mk1 but the master volume knob is also having problems but it’s not the same as the other knobs (which are encoders rather than pots i think).
Also did you need any special tools to open the box besides Phillips head screw drivers? Thanks!
I'm going to do another video soon demonstrating an easier method. I'll be using a product called "ChipQuik" and I'm also going to show how to replace the trigs (along with the part).
To open the box you need a 2mm hex key, and to remove the board you need a T10 torx key.
I don't know the part number for the volume pot, but I did a little searching just now and I think I'm getting close- looks pretty similar yeah?
www.alps.com/prod/info/E/HTML/Potentiometer/RotaryPotentiometers/RK14K12/RK14K12D0A1X.html
We’re you able to find out the volume potentiometer part number? I’m looking to replace the volume knob on my OT MK2
Is a 30w soldering iron okay to remove the thicker solders from the encoders?
thnksssss a lot for the video
I used a WES51 50/60W. I assume the solder is lead-free since it's European which requires higher temps. I recommend using Chip Quik or Indium, and desoldering braids for easy removal of the old part.
After replacing the encoders, the push action does not work in two of them. I can feel the push is working, but when I try to turn it with the push function, it does not move faster in the interface. Any ideas?, btw thank for you video
How do you get the knobs pots out? Just by pulling out? I fell they are super stock and and hard to take it off.
If you mean the plastic caps, just pull firmly and carefully. If you mean the actual pots, you have to desolder them. I recommend this product to desolder them easily www.chipquik.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=220001
My T7 button seems to be failing. It looks like when pressing once it works but pressing twice seems like stacked and not responding, therefore can't swap between tracks and edit them. When pressing function it works fine tho. Any ideas?
I would replace the button switch. I hope to make a video for the trigs/buttons...until then, here's the part: www.smallcab.net/micro-switch-soldering-pr-1667.html
It's cool, all of the buttons actually use arcade switches. It's either a Tokai or Seimitsu MM9-2, but that's the part. It was a hell of a hunt to find, but I lucked out.
Curious to why the original encoder had to be pulled apart and destroyed. Couldn't it have just been desoldered and removed? just the reverse of how the new one is installed? Great video by the way, i'm about to order some encoders. cheers :)
Do these encoders also work for the analog 4 mk1????
hey there. I THINK they are the same encoders
It´s often enough to open up an encoder, clean it with Deoxid for Faders and a cottonswab and close it again. Most likely it will go on working for a significant time. Exchange is always possible later. Sometimes difficult when a type of encoder is hard to find. And expensive. Some instruments have a lot of encoders and just a couple of pots. Exchanging them all is no fun.
I tried that exact thing the first time. I opened it and used Deoxit to clean, then Fadergrease to restore the proper feeling, and closed it back up, but it was loose and wobbly and this encoder is twisted and pressed in a lot, so a solid feel is the needed. It simply can't be closed back to the factory tightness.
Luckily the encoder is easy to find (link in description) , it's only about $2.00, and it's pretty easy to replace. I think it might be possible to use the Faderlube and solder the metal tabs to the body. Maybe they wouldn't be loose that way.
@@ajrodriguez5305 I did that with a Waldorf Q and a Novation Nova Desktop. I was succesful. With the Nova, although I ordered some replacement, I tried cleaning them first. They were pretty bad, always jumping values. After that they were good again. Dunno how long, but I am glad I did not replace them at once. For the Waldorf I did not even look out for new ones. Works fine now. But, they were pretty easy to close again. They have metal-brackets, was not too difficult to give them a tight fit again.
Hi nice video. Mine is 30 pulses broken. Can i replace with the 20 pulses? Is it okay? Thanks
Is it for an Octatrack?
@@TrustNoShadows no its for remote control, for scrolling menu. Push to ok.
Hey buddy, would you ever try to.replace.the flash card.reader on a octatrack? My pins got messed up.
ouch that looks super difficult. How did you mess them up?
hey, how many steps has this encoder? btw great job
I get a bit of random jitter once In awhile on digitakt encoders. Would the process be similar? Or is there even a much simpler solution for my issue?
To elaborate - I will be not even touching a knob but the parameter might move. It's pretty rare so far, could be weeks between seeing it happen
@@MidiFister Interesting. If it's very rare I wouldn't worry, but I googled the encoder part and found this: reverb.com/item/27739167-elektron-digitakt-encoder-potentiometer-replacement it looks like it's made by Alpha and it's probably pretty cheap like the OT encoder
I highly recommend getting some proper chisel tips instead of the very long, thin pencil tip you show. Pencil tips are kinda terrible to begin with, and long ones are even worse since heat transfer is awful. (I find it unfortunate that so many soldering stations include pencil tips by default.)
Good advice! I've definitely learned some things since I posted this. If I re-shot it, I would use a better tip and more flux.
Is the Headphone volume same encoder?
No, these encoders are incremental/endless digital encoders, the headphone is limited-range (min-max) and might even be analog.
Can anybody tell me which liquid_Solution is good to clean the potentiometer ?
Thank you !
Which potentiometer? For the Octatrack encoders, don't use anything. Cleaning the encoders will remove the damping grease. I don't think the volume pot has grease.
If you need to know what to use for potentiometers in general, Deoxit is a good brand, and they make cleaners and lubricants for different components.
@@CartoonCityKid Yes i am talking about the 6 encoders.two on them when i turn it , it sometimes stayes on the same number and kind of jumps after when it moves. What can be the solution ?
It works but as i said sometimes jumpes or stayes on the same number...
Please let me know. Thank you !
@LADOOOO123 The best solution would be to replace the encoders. They're very inexpensive, but if you don't feel comfortable doing that, a pro should be able to do it for a good price =)
If you clean them, it might fix the issue, but the grease would get cleaned out. That grease gives the encoders a smooth feeling.
Does anyone know what the part number for MK2 encoders is?
I don't, but if you have a MK2 you should open it up and share some photos =)
Why did you have to cut the original encoder? Wasn’t it enough to remove the solder joints? Or was it glued to the motherboard?
If you use ChipQuik, you can remove it in one piece. Elektron recommended to cut it up so that each leg could be desoldered individually. It's not glued on though, and the 2 larger legs are what hold it in place before soldering.
Plated through-hole joints are extremely difficult (often impossible) to clear using solder wick when the pin is still inside the hole, since any place the pin contacts the hole plating will be held by a small amount of solder. Continuous-vacuum desoldering equipment (with proper technique, meaning keeping the pin in motion while cooling it down with vacuum, so it can't reconnect) can do it, but if you don't have that equipment, then cutting the pins so you can desolder them one by one and pluck them out, followed by clearing the hole with solder wick, is the best way to remove multi-pin devices.
(If you need to reuse the desoldered part, then continuous-vacuum desoldering is usually the only option. Another is a large desoldering tip that's a block with a well for each pin, allowing you to heat all the pins simultaneously. But these aren't really made anymore, and each tip is specific to the exact device you're desoldering.)
where do you buy knobs?
The encoders are available here www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/PEC16-4020F-S0024?R=0virtualkey0virtualkeyPEC16-4020F-S0024 but if you mean the plastic caps, I don't know about those.
Could it not simply be cleaned? Usually that’s all that’s required
This is for REPAIRING. If you clean it, you'll probably clean out the silicone grease which gives the encoders a smooth feeling
@@TrustNoShadows Well no, you're not repairing the encoder (on the contrary, the first step is to completely destroy it). You're replacing it.
FYI, Deoxit sells thick grease specifically for pots and encoders.
can I use mk2 encoders for mk1?
It might be possible, but I don't think the OT would make use of the higher resolution, but then, maybe it would change values at a slower rate.
Can I repair in the same way the encoders on my A4MKII?
It's probably a similar process but most likely uses different encoders. Open it and share some photos so we can all learn.
@@ajrodriguez5305 Cool, I have already a new encoder..i'll open it and i'll let you know!
@@lukecypher7558 yes please! That would be super helpful to everyone!
@@lukecypher7558What is the name or model of the encoders? Where did you get them?
I don’t remember the name of the encoders but you can open a ticket from Elektron to get what you need 😉
I have a couple of wobbly ones too.
Is it not possible to simply un-solder them?
Why did you cut it apart on the board? I'd be very hesitant to do that myself if it's the only way.
A brand new encoder only costs $1.38 so I didn't mind cutting it apart. I cut it apart so I can unsolder 1 pin at a time; there are 7 pins and it's nearly impossible to unsolder them all at once. It would be possible if you use something called "chipquik" though.
Yeah, I do have one of the solder-sucking gizmos, so i should bale to replace them without taking a chainsaw to the Octa.
Thanks.
You can also snip each leg and will achieve the same thing with less work.
why not just despoiler the encore, rather than cutting it to bits? not a critique, im just wondering cuz im a sobering noob.
When you cut it, you can desolder and remove each pin individually. It's difficult to remove them together because the solder needs to stay liquid. Look for "Chip Quik" to remove with no cutting =)
@@ajrodriguez5305 👍🏿 nice thanks. Makes COMPLETE sense. :)
repair or replace?