2011-2015 Ford F-150 AC Not Cold Enough? How To Decrease Cabin Temperatures When Its Hot!!
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- čas přidán 30. 07. 2023
- Quick preview showing how to trick your F150 into cycling the compressor a little longer, significantly decreasing the vent temperatures inside. Works great in the heat wave of 100 plus degree temperatures.
- Auta a dopravní prostředky
Man come on where’s part 2 it’s HOT
My boy Clay has always been a fan of the AC Blast!
I’m in central Texas!! Let’s get that part 2 coming!! lol
@weshawks4162 it's linked in the video
Please post an update, I want to do this
Mine blows at 38° but air flow not hard enough but i finally fixed it now alot of air blows out ! I cut 2 square holes behind glove box with recipcle saw was very carefull to cut just enough on plastic only evaporator is so close to plastic and then i grabbed my water hose with tip needle sprayer on there and blasted all the dirt behind evap through coil with water a little bit at time cleaned flush it out then blew air in it with blow tip n air compressor and taped it bak up with adhesive foil tape and now it blows good cfm
Yeah, that's a blower motor and/or blend door issue. This won't help that problem lolol
When my 23yr old toyota camry with 280,000 miles had colder AC than that
I have a old toyota tundra and don't need anything. It's had a frozen A.C😂😅
Toyotas are the best!
Will this work for an 05 f150?
I’m interested, how might one apply this to other vehicles?
Unfortunately, I'm not sure it will work on other vehicles. You can look into your setup, but the reason it works on these fords is due to there programming. They short cycle the compressor sooner than they need too, and it effects the ac drastically on high heat days. You would need an understanding of your model's programming to decide if that is a possibility for you.
2009-2014
As far as I know and the last time I looked my blower mtr is on the bottom not the top. What gives?
Lololol, it's relative I suppose. By top of the blower motor I meant above it on the hvac box. You're just looking for the evap temp sensor.
How do you go about adding resistance? Whats that step look like??
I'm doing the final install currently, I'll have a full video out real soon that should be at least fairly easy to follow I hope lol
@GreenCastleGarage please tag me on the a/c video!
Or where can I find it
Me too please.
Yeah I have the same question.
Do y’all make and sell the plugs? If so would it work on a 18f150
No sir, we ordered the plugs on Amazon. The delivery got delayed so it has setback my making of the follow up video tremendously. As soon as the truck gets back, which I believe is Thursday, I will tackle it and get it up with links to everything. As for the 2018, I have no idea if it would work or not. I haven't looked into that model at all.
Did u change your heater core through the glove just asking because I see foil tape
@@mrstl3000 Did we, no. But the truck was bought at auction.....
@GreenCastleGarage ok I did one of my trucks like that
@mrstl3000 lololol, whatever works. Pulling those dashes is a pain
Okay now how do we do this? Please, and thanks.
I'll have a full length detailed video out by the end of the week. You essentially just install a potentiometer on that plug I showed and adjust the resistance on the evap temp sensor. I'll link the full walk-through video as soon as it's live.
@@GreenCastleGarage 🤘🏽🫡
@GreenCastleGarage when where their be the full video
@@martinjuarez71023 🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽👍🏼👍🏼
09-14 f150
We can't see well
How much resistance did you add, im trying a 5k, or a 10k, or a 15k. Trying to see how it feels. Did you increase the charge as well to offset the longer evap times?
First off, no R134 needs to be added. The stock system was plenty capable it was just programmed not to get as cold for fuel economy from my understanding. Secondly, the sweet spot for most people is between 300k and 500k ohms. This truck ended up at 328k on the potentiometer, and that's perfect when it's super hot out. I would highly suggest reading through the forum linked because the information is extremely valuable for the process.
Is there an air filer in the cabin?
Nope
Did you guys have clips made up ?
No we ordered the pigtails. A male and female, and wired the potentiometer inbetween. I'm pretty sure I put links in the description
@@GreenCastleGarage ok thank you.
@craigguthriejr.3817 Sorry, just realized you were on the short. The links are on the full length video and it shows the plugs and the circuit in detail as well if that helps.
czcams.com/video/nc10IRoF1xc/video.htmlsi=xcZnTAGmvimNWxBr
I don’t understand the ad some resistance? I need mine colder. And I hear there is a filter in here.
Um, well essentially what you're doing is taping into the temperature sensor on the evaporator. It's just a thermal resistor, which the computer translates to a temperature to cycle the compressor accordingly. By adding resistance, you make it think the evaporator is warmer than it is, thus cycling the compressor more and creating cooler air. Hope that helps, I'm working in the easy install video now. So the full length will be out soon.
wheres part 2? im dying of heat rn
I'm sorry, a little chaos happened and we didn't get it done before our vacation last week. Now my buddy whose truck it is has been in NY since we got back. He arrives again tomorrow and it's the priority job once he's landed
How do I see the full video
The link pinned in the comments or in the video. Should pop up somewhere up top
@@GreenCastleGarage Incredible that I found this short and you replied to a comment 2 hours ago... Sorry but the link isn't working and I don't see it pinned in the comments. Please share again, thanks man!!
Is that Kelly key
??
My A/C cycles between blowing really cold air (what it should do) and blowing "luke warm" cold air. I cut a hole into the evap box and flushed everything out with some water, but it didn't seem to help much. Any ideas? Will your trick help me out?
I also just had the pros evac out the coolant and fill with the exact correct amount too. Compressor turns on, I just think it has to be a sensor of some kind telling the system to stop blowing cold air.
Oh man, yeah you definitely don't want to jump to this stage you have a different problem. Do you own manifold guages and a good scanner? If so I can point you I the correct direction
I've got Forscan, should I be using that to try and diagnose? and thanks for offering to help. Really kind of you.
@@westonverhulst you know, all the stuff I've played with I haven't tried forescan so I have no idea what info you can pull with it
FYI for any future readers doing this did solve my problem. Those evap temp sensors are a common failure point and this is the best way to get around replacing the entire evap box.
So you did not show us how to do it,,, you just said ,,,add some resistance,,, most of us would like to see exactly what you did.
There is a full 10 min or so video linked at the end and pinned in the comments where we gave a detailed guide. Way too much to get into a 60 second short.
Alright Ladies and Gentlemen the full install is finally done, enjoy: czcams.com/video/nc10IRoF1xc/video.html
Please watch the entire video or at least don't miss the warning at the end, it's important!!!
Link is bad
Thanks for the heads up, I've updated the link above and attached the video as a related video to the short.
No damm how to do it info
It's a 60 second short, if you're not familiar with what's going on watch the full length video. It's linked at the end or here is a link czcams.com/video/nc10IRoF1xc/video.htmlsi=RKfPXHkGp3JHOLfB
Information overload. Calm down dude!
Bs 😆
Lmao, not bs at all
That’s stupid lol. That’s not going to do anything.
It very much does
That’s a STUPID idea.
Replace the pressure transducer switch for $30 instead of doing something that is going to cost you a LOT more down the road.
Can you please elaborate?