2011-2015 Ford F150: AC Not Cold Enough, How To Decrease Vent Temperatures Easy!! Full Video
Vložit
- čas přidán 9. 07. 2024
- Links:
First and Foremost the Masterminds a F150Forum: www.f150forum.com/f38/compres...
Amazon Links: Vent Thermometer- amzn.to/3P9vYcY
On/Off Switch- amzn.to/3QXe0Mh
Potentiometer- amzn.to/47QnyOU Choose 1M ohm
Ebay Connectors:
Male WPT-965 amzn.to/3yofJTy
Female WPT-917- amzn.to/3Vtxt8Z
Diagram- drive.google.com/file/d/1Mb21...
Content:
0:00 Intro
0:46 Explaining the Circuit and Basics of Modification
4:01 Install of Bench Build
6:31 Setup and First Test
8:31 Test Drive and Proof of Concept
8:59 Wrap Up and Further Explanation
12:10 Warning Before Install - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Alright, do to the high volume of requests, we are officially offering pre-built drop in units. The price is $162.38 after taxes. If you are interested email me at shane.d.spalding@gmail.com and we can get an order going. Thanks
Oh man! This is awesome news!! Finally a turnkey solution to this issue!! Congrats on moving fwd with this!
🙌🏼
Thanks for taking the time to make this video, I will give it a try.
No problemo, let us know how it works out.
Ok, just purchased a 13 F150 and I thought i was going crazy, glad its not just me that noticed this for their A/C. Will definitely look into doing this, in Central Texas here and summer is already kicking in hard.
Yall getting all the rain we are in DFW? In goes from hot as hell to cool and thunderstorms every other day it seems lol. Also, it's not a bad install at all, good luck and feel free to ask if you have any questions
@GreenCastleGarage Oh yeah, I can definitely relate. It's hot then cool, windy with some scattered rains, then hot+ muggy! It's annoying as hell. Meanwhile I'm over here blasting it on setting 4 to cool off. 😂 definitely gonna source all the parts needed and knock it out soon on a spare wknd.
Make sure it's not a broken recirulator door (what i just fixed on my 13 f150. AC works but max AC didnt. Fixed it by watchn a video on replacing the door.
Hi guys, digitaltrucker from F150 post and forum here! You did a great job with this. What folks dont realize is that all of our trucks will respond differently to this hack, so hang in there and find your trucks sweet spot. Our evaps are suppose to have a temp between 36-38 but they do not. Issues like this are not new to Ford, even their current model is having an issue where the trucks are freezing and not under performing like some of ours. Most see (our trucks) 48-54 temp at the evap coil. The hack coupled with a correctly charged system is key as you state. Again, as you stated, make the change and give it some drive time and dont be over aggressive. Being to aggressive will freeze your system and can do damage. FYI! The post is long, but well worth the read!
Hey, thanks for the reply and all the leg work on this. It is absolute brilliance, and I just hope we did it justice in this video.
@@GreenCastleGarage yes you did!
@@ejcsds / digitaltrucker!! So happy you had a chance to see the video and to see you comment here! Very much appreciate all the hard work you've put into the original f150forums thread and you continuing to contribute here. Nearly everything we did is based on your research. Thanks so much for all the effort you put into this and leading me to make my (donor) truck cooler. We're in Texas too and we owe you a drink!
-Clayton from the video
@@claytontober9238 Thanks there were a lot of folks involved in that thread! Funny how it started out as folks wanting to stop the rapid on off of their compressors and we ended up with a hack for poor performance! My truck was so heat soaked today, that I was tempted to pull mine back out and connect it up! LOL! Thanks for your kind words for all of us!
@ejcsds I think I'm just used to seeing you reply to a majority of posts but you're absolutely right it many people contributed. I just got back from a short morning drive and had to flip the switch off because for the first time in awhile it's in the 70s this morning! Also completely agree the sun sensor seems to be involved, but i haven't done much with that assumption yet.
Wish you showed the diagram of the bench wiring you did
Just added a link in the description.
I believe the PCM is supposed to kick off the compressor when it reads between 35 and 38 degrees which would give you low 40s out of your vent... Usually the problem is the sensor gets covered in dirt and debris from using the fresh air recirculation which is a No-No should always be on Max AC to keep that door closed and the dirt out... Easier fix is to drill a hole in heater box grab the sensor pull it out clean it off put it back in cover the hole with the plug and some HVAC tape work great for me... My vent temperature is usually around 42°
@kennethrobinson5151 This actually makes alot of sense. That being said I watched this unit settle at about a 55 degree reading and that's where it keeps it.
@@GreenCastleGarage mine was covered with a sticky oily film along with a bunch of dirt must have been causing a false reading... Took me six years to figure that out I replace the condenser the dryer the expansion valve the high pressure sensor none of that made a shit of a difference the compressor kept on cycling on and off about every 10 seconds or so... I was going to replace the sensor with one from an f250, have to buy the whole evap corr to get the one for an F-150 nobody makes just the sensor... But cleaning it off did the trick
@@GreenCastleGarage recently I had bypassed the sensor with a 1/4 Watt 2.5 thousand ohm resistor which works but the compressor never shut off and it iced up the core under certain conditions
@kennethrobinson5151 yeah, that's way too little of resistance. The resistors are finicky to get them right, but it tracks perfectly with what you found.
What sensor are you talking about?
Hey guys great video. I was wondering if you knew if that circuit happens to be a positive or negative circuit. I was thinking of my on off switch being one with the blue light when it is on. Just a little added feature for myself.
@@CharlesSumrall-s3i you know, I'm not actually sure. I'd just unplug it and check with a voltmeter.
Do a video on pimping out my GMC Sierra Denali, before and after LOL (I got lots of work for yall, 2011 Cadillac DTS with a bad water pump, 2008 Dodge Grand Caravan needs a new motor from the junkyard, 2003 Vette smashed in the front, and a 2013 Cadillac XTS that has suspension, Stabilitrac, traction control, and whole front fashia bumper cover issues. Oooooh Lawd my hooptie life is killin me. LOL
That video is underway Dave, don't you worry
Will these harness plugs fit a 2010 F150? What about a link to the potentiometer? I tried putting resistors across the evap sensor harness, but no matter how small a resistor I tried, the evap would eventually freeze up. This was last summer during hot weather. I haven't tried since. Thanks for the video.
Thats why we recommended a potentiometer that was adjustable, so that you could adjust. You had too much resistance. Keep in mind that while these guys may have used 300k, your truck may respond entirely different to that amount. A lot, a lot of trial and error went into the efforts in that post. It can work.
Hey is there a way to pit a switch with 3 positions so that way you can set a hot weather and cold weather ie one bypases the resistor
You don't need a 3 position switch, just a regular on off like we did. When you flip off you wire the circuit normal not using the potentiometer. Therefore, it is your cold weather setting
Is there a way to tap into existing wires while installing pot and switch, but without buying the connectors? Also is there a wiring diagram for newbies?
Yes of course, just need to put them on the wires that plug into the temp sensor
@GreenCastleGarage Based on what I can see in the video, your potentiometer is in parallel to the actual thermistor and therefore lowering the resistance seen by the computer. Am I correct? Thanks.
It's been some time since I've looked at this circuit, but I'm pretty sure it's in series adding resistance to the output of the sensor
@gtrepani OK I went and pulled the one out of the truck here and I apologize. You had it correct with the parallel. My brain wasn't good enough to remember lol. Sorry if I added confusion
@@GreenCastleGarage Thanks for following up on this! Based on what I could see in your video as well as what I saw in another video showing the resistance range as the temperature changes, I figured that your circuit had to be in parallel and not in series. This is a great hack! Now I need to play with it more to pick a safe value that ensures my evaporator doesn't freeze up. Thanks again!
Really cool, those plugs aren't cheap though. When I do it I might solder in cheap plugs.
@brianl2875 you could just splice the setup inline with the existing harness. We just wanted a setup that could be removed without effecting the factory harness
Weird thing is my Company work f150 blows a lot of cold air, like you would expect but my personal f150 lariat AC sucks their both 2014
These systems are more finicky than most. If I was you I'd check the outside air filter and the recirculation blend door first for sure
I clicked both links for the pigtails and both go to male....looking to order this stuff asap but need the link to the female
Sorry, Fixed it just now
So do I need a screener better then a cheap harbor freight
You don't need a scanner at all, you can do it by trial and error with a vent thermometer. I just own a scanner, so I used it to show proof of concept and dial his in quicker
Any new links to replace the eBay ones? Those items are no longer available. Or, any other sources that provide them?
Daaaang, I'll see what I can find
Just found in the original thread that the connectors are Motorcraft part numbers WPT-965 and WPT-1078. They are still available on eBay but are about $5 cheaper through Rock Auto. 👍🏼
Now I just need to read the thread in detail for how to properly wire things up just as you guys did.
@Army4Runner very good move, buts it's easy enough once you sit and ponder on it
English please!!!
I also have a 2013 i just need colder air and to blow harder will a electrician know how to do it
Lol, well the rate of air flow is a limitation of the blower motor and its corresponding resistor. I'd start by checking those, as for the potentiometer trick, I'd think any automotive electrician should be able to easily follow what was outlined. They likely are not aware, so I'd have them check out the video. Hope this helps
I live in Abilene. I’m getting burned to death in my 2010 super crew cab. Got a baby on the way and need to get a colder ac. Just had the ac recharged. Can I have y’all do this on mine?. Or order one from you.
@jacobchamblin6317 I can build one and send it for $150 or if you'd rather I install it and tune it in you can come to south ft worth and it'll be $200. Email is shane.d.spalding@gmail.com.
@@GreenCastleGarage I’ll send you an email
Have you had any issues with this fix? I also live in north Texas and just installed this today. The ambient temp is 92 F @ 38% humidity. My temp at the vent was 56 F with the switch off, and then dropped to 42 F with the switch on. I increased the pot a tiny bit in hopes of getting to 40 F, but then it started going up and got up to 60 F. I stopped the car and turned it off because I figured the system was starting to freeze.
Do you have a scanner to watch the evap temps? It helps alot. It still took us quite a few trips to get dialed in, but it's been perfect ever since. If you want to drive down to south Ft. Worth we will gladly give you a hand also.
What part of Fort Worth? I live in Saginaw, and I really want to do this mod. I'd like to check it out if I could @GreenCastleGarage
@@dereckplante2928 I'm south of Ft Worth in Burleson
@@GreenCastleGarage have you guys thought about just selling that harness already made? I'd buy it for a fair price
@dereckplante2928 we are very much considering it
HELP!!!! when i plug in the 300k resistor, my ac goes warm.... what am i doing wrong???
Does it go warm immediately? Or after running for a bit?
So if I put 300k on it , and get 32 degrees, if I need the temp to rise I’ll add a higher resistance ? Am I correct or am I understanding it backwards lol
Its been awhile but yeah that sounds right on. Sounds like you can monitor the evap temp as well which is nice, just remember small changes and drive it and watch to really get it honed in. Good luck
Also can I buy one from you so I don’t have to make one? And if so how much?
I've been asked that a few times now lol, I don't really plan on selling them honestly. It's really easy of you order the links, and you can use butt connectors if you're not comfortable soldering. It just won't be as reliable for as long.
Ive got a 2010 and am currently sitting in 97degree temps with ac blowing as cold as possible and im sweating my balls off so now i know what im doing next
Hey i got my snake cam through the thermosistor and its caked ill send a link when my video gets uploded
You may just need to clean the coil and it should blow way faster
Added resistor but temp started to go up at the vent?
How much resistance did you add? It's finicky, so you may be freezing up your coils. If that happens it will start blowing warm air fairly quick and you need to turn your system off quickly.
The ebay links aren't working. Any chance you can update them?
Yeah, absolutely. I'm in the shop currently but ill.do.it when I get back infront of the computer in say 30 mins or so.
@@GreenCastleGarage Thank you!
I updated the links with some Amazon ones. Seems they carry the connectors now
@GreenCastleGarage The female connector link keeps pulling up the male connector
Would this work on 08 5.4?
No sir
Can you guys make me one to
Purchase
@WillTyler-l2j Sure can, email me at shane.d.spalding@gmail.com and we can work it out.
I will purchase the one out of this truck please just purchased a 2013 ac suckkkksss
I’m in the fort Worth area could I drop my truck off and pay y’all to do this to mine
Yeah, you can shoot me an email and we can try and work something out
Will this make my ac colder in my 2013 f150 ecoboost?
Yessir
@@GreenCastleGarage so just install it the same way you guys did with the 1m ohm potentiometer and it will work? Do I have to scan the truck or do anything else after install? It won’t make the truck catch on fire, right? lol. I’m in sw Florida and it’s brutal. Ac in these truck sucks but a little colder would be nice! New lines, new condenser, newish compressor, new cooling fan, and new Freon. It blows cold but not cold cold.
@danielmarjanovic9957 yeah, it was so long ago I can't remember the good starting point but I think it was like 300k ohms. You start there drive it like 5 miles then increase it a little and repeat until you get it just right. A scanner that sees the evap temp certainly helps but isn't necessary. If it goes from real cold to hot all of a sudden turn the ac off because you've frozen the lines. Also.means you be added too much resistance
@@GreenCastleGarage what am I increasing? The temperature on the controls for ac?
@@danielmarjanovic9957 you're spoofing the temperature from the vap sensor. So the compressor cycles longer
Will this work on a 09 ?
Unfortunately, no
It's so much easier to get a HVAC temp probe from Lincoln Navigator 2009 ish, drill a new hole to left of evaporator, CAREFULLY... Plug in is the same and it drops temp 10°
I wish I could post pictures.
That's a slick idea. A lot of folks like the ability to go back to stock though, either way, it's definitely an awesome option and one I didn't know about. Appreciate the comment
$2 Dollar part from salvage yard. Runs same ohm resistance as stock. Just further from evap. Been monitoring high/low psi and it's split almost perfectly, and no it's freezing me out!!
Heater core or ambient temp sensor? Also, exactly where am I drilling the hole?
@@luvmychevy1951 I wish I could post a picture. To the left of evaporator. About 3" Be sure not to drill into evap
Also on an unrelate note i have the ford sync gen 1 sony head unit dose anyone know how to clone the hdd
You want to copy the hard drive? I guess im.not following the idea here
@GreenCastleGarage yeah the 2.5 ide hdd that is in my unit
Why do you want to copy it? I guess that's why I'm confused lol
@GreenCastleGarage the hdd is 15 almost 16 years old and they dont normaly last this long id prefer to do preemptive maintenance by upgrading to an ssd
@bruhmandude555 ahhhhh, OK now I'm following. What I would do is grab a cheap junk yard one, open that up and see what it takes to read the hdd. Practice there, and then do yours.
Ok I will just do that then thank you
You're very welcome, if you have any problems let me know
@@GreenCastleGarage hey bro is that resistor off setting the thermostat knob or the sensor on the evaporator core?
@@michaelbradshaw5003 temp sensor
@@GreenCastleGarage thanks man
@@michaelbradshaw5003 no problemo
Do you have a diagram of the built?
You know I almost put a picture of our hand drawn one in, but I honestly forgot by the time I got around to the video. Let me see if I can find that picture for you, give me a few hours and I'll report back
@GreenCastleGarage thank you so much shout out from Houston Tx
I couldn't find a picture today buddy, I'll try and mock one up tomorrow and add it to the description
@@GreenCastleGarage thank you.
@@GreenCastleGarage any luck?
Could you send me one made ? I’ll buy it
its not difficult at all, you can use butt connectors instead of solder its just not as durable over time.
@@GreenCastleGarageI'll buy one also
I will purchase the one out of this truck please just purchased a 2013 ac suckkkksss
I will purchase the one out of this truck please just purchased a 2013 ac suckkkksss
Just order the equipment in the links and follow the video. It's not a complicated install, and if you do itself and you have any issues down the road it will waaaay easier to troubleshoot. That's why I won't sell them. Or post in linked forum and maybe one of those guys will sell them too you. It was there idea originally so I deam them the masters of the subject lolol.