How to change sprockets and chain on a Tenere 700
Vložit
- čas přidán 27. 07. 2024
- In this video we replace the drive sprocket, the chain and the rear sprocket on the Yamaha Tenere 700. Hopefully it will enable you to do it yourself.
I use the wrong words all the time in this video :) so bare with me!
Tools and torques:
Drive sprocket cover: 5mm hex
Drive sprocket nut: 30 mm socket, 95 Nm
Rear sprocket nuts: 14mm socket, 80 Nm
Rear wheel axle nut: 27 mm, 105 Nm
00:00 Intro
00:23 When to change
01:55 What to buy
04:51 Drive sprocket replacement
13:03 Chain replacement
24:50 Rear sprocket change
28:10 Chain adjustment
The complete drive kit I bought is found here: www.off-the-road.de/en/700-Te...
In this video I chose the 15 and 46 teeth sprockets and I opted for the open chain.
The chain tool is from Biltema (look around, there are cheaper and better ones out there)
www.biltema.se/bil---mc/mc/ve...
------------
#shootandride
Check out our t-shirts: shop.spreadshirt.se/nomadsweden/ - Auta a dopravní prostředky
I don’t know why I’ve just watched this whole video from start to finish. It was brilliant. Weird thing is I own a GS...
Haha thank you
Because you really want a T7? 😉
@@petehook2866... You couldn't be more correct Pete!! 😂
Hello Robert, nice video. I am currently replacing the set too! Question: what part have you replaced? There is a big washer en the lock nut on the front... i think the nut (because of the locking function) Yamaha says the washer. I am confused!
The ruber things are known as O rings as O ring chain
From what I watched/read in internet I understood that the sealed chain has the grease/lubricant inside (pins are fully covered), where the friction goes and those seals are made so that you don't wash the grease out while cleaning your chain and to prevent the dirt from going inside. In my opinion you should have covered pins whole in that "mayonaise".
It's what I'd do, but then again I am no specialist in that matter.
Thanks for the video.
Oh, one more thing: when you are covered in sweat after the whole work words like "it's not hard to do yourself" lose credibility :D
Haha thanks for the fun comment. Well, I am new to this also, so thanks for the tip.
@@NomadSweden you put some grease on both sides of the link, so it will probably move around there inside the seals when it gets warm. How are you still using this chain, or how long did it last?
@@henrikforsberg683 Thanks for the tips! I used this chain/sprockets for 20.000km and now I changed it all again, but applying the grease better :)
Many many thanks for the information, Nomad Sweden . I appreciate your prompt response. Please keep these very very informative videos on the Yamaha 700 Tenere going. Kindest regards, gerhard
Great video, great tips in the order of replacement. My only suggestion. Don't use a torque wrench to remove bolts, only to tighten/torque. It can be used in a pinch to remove bolts, but will mess with the calibration over time.
Dan, I’ve noticed this is done in a lot of “how to” videos on CZcams. It always makes me cringe.
How to replace clutch lining T7 tnx
Well, when you say extender you dont mess around 🤣Just to give you a little heads up... i used the chain tool from Biltema, but the bolt is not strong enough when pressing the chain back together. So i did not manage to get it into specs. What DID recommend you to have to be sure the chain is locked properly. I had to upgrade to a motion pro tool to get the job done correctly. Nice video again mate. You are really esay to listen to and follow along. I recommend you to do way more of this kinda videos 👏🏻
Thanks mate! I hope I got it right, not 100% sure. But I think the fail video will be a hit too. Reviews and DYI videos are the least work and gives most views so I do need them to grow. But the adventures are what I come back to myself and relive, like a diary, so regardless we need them. I bet you have the same. Note this is the very extended version, hence the long extender.
@@NomadSweden Yeah, fail videos and behind the scenes are always a classic 🤣I'm think i will do a 2020 fuck up video at the end of the year 👏🏻 that will be a long one (she said) In the long run, i think the honestly way of things, good mix of content and your charm on the camera is what will make you grow the most. And it is nice to reach out to a broader audience... keep it up. I really hope to make something with you one day. Battle of the north 😎
You can easily change only the front sprocket but when you wait too long then you need to change the whole set.
The front is very small and therefore has less teeth to grab the chain which is the reason it wears out faster.
When you wait too long the chain might get damaged and that will damage the rear sprocket but in most cases you can use 2 front sprockets and so almost double the lifespan of the set.
Tydligt, systematisk, pedagogiskt och ödmjuk. 👍
Tackar!
Good video and explanation 👍 I change all the chains and sprockets for my friends and always loosen the front sprocket nut first, then cut off the chain, change both sprockets, put on new chain and then tighten the front sprocket nut. I find this to be a quick method with good work flow.
I've probably changed at least a dozen chains from enduro to sport bike, and yet still took this vid in. Only difference I assemble all the new parts then tighten and torque. Now you have me wanting to buy a tenere 700.
I have to admit, this was my first time 😊 so thanks!
Thanks man. Really enjoy your videos always. Safe riding from all here in Ireland.
Thanks right back :)
It's the advantage that the uncomplicate motorbikes and whith this very good kind of tutorials, we don't need nothing more! Thanks for sharing
Miguel from Portugal
Thanks Miguel! I agree. I do not miss complicated systems.
Another great video, very instructive and informative, well done, thank you for sharing it with everyone!!
Great video Robert....I always appreciate a DIY video done in an unimproved work space! :-)
Little tip for chain adjusters threaded into aluminium swing arms.
On the the purchase of the bike, remove the wheel spindle, unwind and remove the adjusters, and coat them liberally in your favourite anti seize compound.
Reassemble.
Thank me later.
Thanks! Will do!
Great, Change sprockets and chain at same times, always!
Couple of lessons that I learned the hard way. Sometimes a non factory Yamaha front sprocket can have a slight amount of slop in it that can damage the splines on the counter shaft over a long period of time. If you are running a 525 or 530 chain be sure to carry an extra master link as those size chains are less common and you could have trouble finding one in an emergency. A very thorough video, good job.
Thanks!
Very good video. Informative, well explained and empowering. Your approach was "nomad".. Sorry, play on words. Bravo.
Got a cardan powered tiger. Watched anyway. Thanks for sharing :)
Thank you so much for this video. I've just completed my first time full set replacement following your wonderfully detailed instructional. I am curious if everything went well with the chain since your replacement. Again, thanks so much
Thanks! Great that I actually helped someone :) No problems with the chain so far.
Good video. Thanks. I will change chain and sprocket myself too.
Well done, Robert. Tack fõr det. If you ever replace the current chain with a continuous chain (requiring removal of the swingarm), I would be interested in seeing a video and hearing your comparison of the difficulties of the two jobs.
Good job. I've done the same with your help using Craft Meyer riveting tool for DID chains. I've got some issues to put the new front sprocket in place, problem solved when screwing its bolt. Thx a lot.
Thanks for the instructional video. Helps a lot in addition to the manual.
Thanks!
Fit the chain to the NEW sprockets. I have seen sprockets so worn that the new chain would be a link long so if you fit to old sprockets you may end up with too short of a chain for new sprockets. Also always tighten / torque in a 'star' pattern not circular. You can have the part out of camber if you tighten circular. (same with changing a flat on a car).
Good job done !
20k kms, well done!
Could be the highest mileage T7 out there.
Keep us informed re other service interval stuff ie valve clearances, plugs etc.
Kudos!
I suspect Nick Saunders may have something to say about highest mileage but yes - 20k is quite an achievement! :-)
@@Life2ontour ah yes, forgot about Nick....
And don't forget those two Frenchmen that rode from Nord Cap to South Cape last year...good videos of their travels as well, although only in French!
Nice Video.
I have a little tip for you. You have to lubricate the pins inside the roller, because this is your lifetime lubrication for the chain inside the roller. The O rings protect the lubrication inside. The outside can be lubricated at any time after assembly. So please, put more of the grease inside.
Ah thank you. More mayo next time then. I hope this will work until next time.
Hey Nomad, I just swapped my 15 for a 16 tooth Vortex countershaft sprocket and I have to say that it made a very nice difference on the backroads of overcast Southern Oregon - a little trail riding and my recently acquired wht/red T7 seem just as At Home off-road as it did with stock gearing. I now am using 1st gear at times in tight off-road where before I wasn't - seems 16 x 46 combo is, I think, pretty ideal. Having said that, I also have NOT done single track up a windy, slippery hill with this combo... ;) ...might be worth a try out, you don't even have to add a link to your stock length chain! Anyway, enjoying your videos and fun sense of humor, as well the ride and activities footage - much thanks for all you do! PS: my former ADV ride was an R1200GSA that sadly, burned up in the Oregon Fires earlier this year... Weird Fires...
Thank you 🙏 and thank for sharing! Sounds like a combo to try out 👍🏻 Ride safe.
I'd tighten the rear sprocket nuts across opposing sides, also some threadlock on the nuts, thanks for the vid though cheers
Great video sir. Though we don’t usually do DIY’s here in the Philippines because there are a lot of bike shops here which can do such service at very cheap fees for the labor. I replaced my sprockets & chain of my T7 though at 47000 kms already. Hehe ride safe always sir!
Thanks! Same to you
I would say that teachers can use this video to explain to the students in mechanic how to put a new chain kit on !
Well done Robert 😎😎
haha thank you.
Nice work 👏 👌 👍 💪
Bra genomgång hur man gör bytet.
Two items for those who are not mechanics, never use a Torque wrench to remove any bolts or nuts, second, the torque reading will not be accurate with the long extension used.
The torque will be accurate with an extension like that. It's only when you use a torque adapter that you have to take into account the changed torque applied
@@SuzukiRider93 I do not agree. With an extension you are able to and will put way more torque on the same tool, compared to using it without an extension. Simple mechanics!
@@SKgeostrat You have the right to be wrong
@@SuzukiRider93 🤣yes of course and having thought it through, you are right. One COULD put more torque on with the extension, but the torque wrench will not let you.
antiseize and tight them opposing sides instead of circular.....
Nice vid go start using it....
Thanks for a nice video, and some interesting comments. Regarding the orthodoxy of always changeing chain & sprockets as a set, I will challenge this by the following logic.. The front sprocket has about 1/3 of the number of teeth as the rear one, consequently it wears about 3 times as fast. So the conventional wisdom is that with wear the sprockets and the chain and sprockets will blend together like your hand with a well worn glove, or your feet with a long worn hiking boot. Clearly the oposite is the case: The opening between the teeth on the front sprockets opens up, but the rollers of the chain obviously do not grow to fit the growing opening. So the frontsprocket and chain grow in mismatch as the km roll on. I presented this logic to my mechanic when I had 10000km service to my ktm 790S, to which he protested vehemently. I insisted, and demanded a new front sprocket. I even went down from 16 to 14 teeth, as I find the gearing to tall for my liking. This will of course make the issue of wear even worse, but anyway, 12700km now, and looking forward to the result of this experiment as I approach 20000km. Please refute my reasoning, but the result will be quite interesting..
Sounds interesting. You may be on to something. Let me know 👍🏻
If you change the front sprocket early(before its totally ruined, when it looks like sharkfins it’s been there too long!) it should make the rest go a bit longer, and front sprockets are cheap compared to chains. 😁 and keep an eye on the chain, pulling it outwards on the rear sprocket shows if it’s getting stretched. Do it with a new chain to get a reference, then you will see that u can pull it longer out from the sprocket as it wears out. And i agree with your reasoning on front sprocket having less teeth than the rear, so it wears out quicker.
I was always wondering where does this myth about changing motorcycle chain and sprockets in set comes from. I was blindly following that advice until I realized that each time I change whole set only front sprocket seems to be worn out. Then I started replacing front sprocket each 10 to 15 thousand km and rear sprocket and chain usually last 3 front sprockets.
Got like and subscribe
nice video
Dilmi from Algeria
Thank you!
Excellent how to Robert...that will be a good help to people a little unsure. My last Tenere 660 used to eat chains and sprockets and cush drives, being a big single. Although the T7 has more power its a bit easier on the drive train. I regularly lube the chain but I'm a bit lazy about cleaning it...Cheers, Steve
Thank a lot. Very useful. Only a couple of things as others here also mentions. The Biltema tool is a bit weak and if unlucky you dont get the grinded pin out. That happened to me once. And I would apply a bit more "Belgium mayonnaise" to the pins itself. Because of the X-ring you will never get more lubricant into the pins later. Lubricating a modern chain is just to keep the o- or x- rings in good condition and to prevent rust. (So Im told). But the way you worked and the order of it seems very smart. Happy riding the awesome bike :-)
Thanks! My next chain will be perfect 😊
Sven, would you be tempted to bite the bullet and remove the swingarm
to install a continuous chain next time?
@@daveinwla6360 Never done that yet, seems to a lot work....
Good Job. While the rear wheel was out. Check the Rubber Dampers inside the hub to see if they needed to be changed.
Thanks! Will do!
O-ring seals, use locking vice grip pliers to press the plate on, pinch it between the pins to get it seated. A battery powered Dremel tool is handy to carry to cut pins. A hand punch to drive them out. DID makes a great portable chain tool. Amazon. Good job no swearing no blood, Off-the-Road is a great source of parts.
Thanks sam! Since then I have got the DID tool instead. It's small and can drive the pins out without cutting. It's a bit powerful though, I managed to press the plate on a bit tight, limiting the movement of the link. Not sure wat to do there except cut a part and replace?
@@NomadSweden yes since having the new tool replacing it should be fairly simple. Just get a new press fit master link with the O-ring seals, don't forget them and fit it. You know how you did the other so you should have a feel for how much. Slow and test movement. You don't need a hot link when riding, be a source of failure at the worst moment. So take wise precaution. Take care, Safe riding on the next big trip.
Hey, I just ordered the nice Rally Motor Rottweiler mirrors and mount setup. I couldn't get them from Holland so I used the California connection, tax free. Yeah! $300USD total. Like much better than double take, they aren't what they seem.
thank you!
Hi, thank you for the content. Fantastic video. Some great tips and tricks I will use when I change my sprockets and chain later this month. I had a slightly off topic question regarding which tyres you are using? Thanks
Thanks! Those were the Mitas E-09.
I own a 94 tenere 660, and it’s interesting to note the front sprocket lock system is not a lot better than the 94.
Yours had clearly slipped from its original locked position and the slots no longer held the indents on the flange of the nut.
The 94 has a flimsy narrow nut and a lock washer that both fail over time.
I’d say keep a close eye on that front nut and retorque it if it slips.
Bad design still not rectified!
Oh, and use a grinding disc, not a cutting disc for the chain pins!
Enjoyed the video. Nights are clearly longer in Sweden than Scotland, as I would have just whipped both sprockets off with the chain onto the bench and worked at the bench all,in one go.
I didn’t see any comparison of rear sprocket wear.
At 46 to 15, the wear on the rear should be one third that of the front sprocket, so I tend to change the rear once for every two front sprockets.
Sorry it took me so long to watch your video!
Thanks for the tips! This video was actually first time ever I changed drive kit 😊Got many tips since then but I got it done.
Stick with the cutting disc and cut chain in half! Muck quicker than messing around pressing pins on a chain you are throwing in the trash.
Thank you for this video. Love watching your content. 1 question.
Did the chain come with the correct amount of links? 122?
Yes, I emailed the store and asked how many links for my standard sprocket T7 I needed and they suggested the correct product.
Great!!!
Love the OCD reg. on your bike. Lots of bikers are a bit OCD about their babies.
Indeed! I rolled in to first 1000km service with exactly 1000km on the odo and OCD on the plate 😊
I totally got that mayo reference. Almost choked on my tea. And I'm Finnish, not Dutch. Ha!
Ett hett tips, använd bara momentnyckel när du vill skruva åt med ett bestämt moment :)
Tack 😊 hade bara den. Får skaffa fler verktyg
Good video, but one thing: you should never use a torquewrench to break nuts loose. The wrench is a precision measuring tool and will loose it's accuracy when missused as a breakerbar
Yep, I learnt that now :) We live and we learn. Thanks
Very good video, you explain things very well and with good details. Images are very sharp and clear so we can see all the details very nicely. Just a question comes to my mind ... why did you go for the open chain?, I think a closed one would have saved you quite a good amount of work as you spent most time opening the old chain and closing the new one. I also think closed chains are more sturdy/reliable. Which was your reason to go for the open one?
Hi, thank you! I never changed chains before and I wasn't sure I could get a closed chain on to the bike without removing a lot of other parts. The chain goes on both sides of the swing arm pivot and I just felt more secure I could do it with an open chain.
That makes sense. Now you know you can fit a closed chain the next time. Great work!!
Nice video, can you show how to clean the wheel spokes and tighten them?
Thanks! I have never cleaned or tightened the spokes :)
Hello Nomad Sweden ! I loved your CZcams video . May I ask what sort of tyre did you have on the rear wheel in the video ? What make and what actual tyre size ? Kindest regards, gerhard
It’s a Dunlop 908 RR. 18” 150 wide
Great video man, I do have a question: why buy the open chain instead of the closed one?
Thanks. On this bike you would need to take off the swingarm to get on a closed chain.
I have a small version of your tool I carry to split the chain while I'm out on the trail & put in a split link to stay mobile
A good and informative video. I only have one question: What is the advantage of an open circuit compared to an already connected one?
A connected one you can only mount by removing the swingarm of the T7
@@NomadSweden thanks for you fast answer!!
It is the chain is the problem. It will stretch and then ride on the tips of the sprockets
Excellent video, what are your thoughts on the chains with the speed clips? Emergency use only or avoid.
Actually i never used them so no idea 🤷♀️
Made in Belgium, because of mayonnaise... made me laugh. Good instructional.
Thank you :)
In general you have the measurement limits for each part of the drive kit. You can and should replace each element individually once it goes out of the limit...
I look and feel then replace if needed.
For the chain slack, do you measure it from the tip of the rubber strip or directly from the metal of the swingarm? It's not clear in the shop manual and sincr the rubber strip has a certain thickness, it can really mess the adjustment. I usually measure from the end of the rubber to the middle of the chain. I don't know if this is correct though...
You are correct! It’s from the tip of the rubber 👍🏻
The reason sprockets wear and scallop like they do, is because the chain has stretched, that's all it is, so the chain, whilst it might look ok is definitely not, sprockets do not wear if the chain is good.
Nice work.. My ebay china tool dont work well for this, so l need a new one.
Thanks! Just know that I don't recommend the Biltema chain tool. It's just the one I got.
@@NomadSweden sisi... Guess everything are better then that ebay tool l have. Butter metal
Motion pro makes good bike tools! Not cheap, but good.
My tip?
I've been working and riding on motorcgcles 40 years, 15 years had my own shop.
When in the shed/shop, i like to put copper or nickel anti seize (just a tiny dab) on every male fastener thread. On bikes i worked on, my own and customers, i never had a seized fastener, a damaged aluminium thread, nor had to put a thread repair in (Timesert, Recoil, Helicoil etc). On customer bikes i didnt service before, or were new to me... plenty!
Thanks for sharing! I will get some of that!
It sounds like you relied on the friction of the nut against the washer to prevent it from loosening.
Were you careful, then, to keep the anti-freeze compound off the washer and the part being attached?
In the aircraft industry, BTW, there is no reliance on friction - everything is safety wired.
@@daveinwla6360 its a dab on the male thread. Prolly 2 mm wide by 2-4 threads long. The thing is not dunked in a bowl of the stuff. There's a lot of paranoia and mis information, prolly down to people going mad with the stuff.
Yes i'm familiar with lockwire, use it on race bikes i prepped.
@@michaelhayward7572 - I have used anti-seize under the bolts of my car's mag alloy wheels for decades in order to not over torque the bolts against the soft alloy. The bolts have never loosened, but it always alarms mechanics! :-)
En lite märklig fråga, men, hur lång är den korta lilla växelarmen som sitter ovanför framdrevet (från axelcentrum till centrum på kulbulten)? Det ser exakt ut som en sån som jag behöver som kopplingsarm på TDR250, som inte går att köpa längre.
Ja den var udda 😊 kan tyvärr inte svara på rak arm. Ska se om jag kan kolla nästa gång
Change sprocket size can throw the speedo accuracy too
Or correct the bad accuracy perhaps 😂
At how many kilometers did you have to change the set? (Sorry if you mention and I missed it)
Also, the T7 is highly geared so a longer gear will benefit the ones doing asphalt use.
I did mine at 20.000km. I don't go very high speeds on asphalt and I like the gearing for technical offroad, so it suits me good.
Is the chain slack specified with the bike on the sidestand ? On mx bikes it’s usually measured with the bike lifted up(wheel fully sprung out).
Yes the manual says sidestand. Probably to make it easy during travel etc and central stand is not standard. MX bikes are perhaps often on a lift or similar.
@@NomadSweden Thank you so much for this video
Hi Robert. I see you change tyres as well. I think you had motoZ before. How did you found them ? How you find current tyres ? What Would be the right choice ??
Yes, I now run Dunlop R908RR in the rear and R606 in front. I liked the Motoz but I want to build experience in different setups. There is never a right choice :) it is very personal what is right for you. Do you love going in loose or muddy offroad, or do you avoid it?
Nomad Sweden 🇸🇪 I’m only starting my off-road experience. Got myself same bike as you and recently went in to muddy heaven and had absolut blast but I don’t love stock tyres in mud and grass they are loosing traction in no time. I use bike mainly on road but got this type to explore off roads and I can sacrifice comfort towards more grip. But don’t want to go fully off-road as will use it on daily basis on tarmac
Thanks! That narrows it down. Pretty much any 50/50 will be a step up from stock when offroading, but a step down on tarmac. If you want to have fun in offroad, and still go tarmac, I would recommend a combo with knobby in the front and a 80/20 in the rear. Ex Conti TKC70 rear and TKC80 front. Or similar combos from other brands. Like Mitas E07 rear, E13 front etc. That at least keeps the front more steady in offroad, but you get better tarmac life in the rear. But tyre questions are hard :)
Bra video! Men använder du en kedja från DID så skulle du haft ett annat verktyg för kedjan.
Typ den här chainsandsprockets.co.uk/products/did-style-chain-breaker-tool
DID kedjor har ihåliga stiftanslutningslänkar, till skillnad från andra kedjor. Men det kanske funkar ändå. Kör å va glad 👍
Tack för tipset
if you put the bike in first as well i find it helps to be able to undo the front sprocket nut..... also the grease you applied to the link. that needs to be applied to the o rings but most importantly needs to be on the two links that go through the chain they need to be full of grease as chains are now sealed. as you did not fill the links before riveting the chain back together you now have a dry link in your chain which will more than likely be the failure point. its all a learning curve being your first time. the only other thing is please do not ever use a torq wrench to undo as it buggers up calibration so will not be accurate in the future just you a normal ratchet. other than those 3 things well done you will get there.
Thanks. 20000 km done since then and time to do it all again. My second time ever. Tips are useful. 👍🏻
From which point of contact did you measure the distance from swing arm to the chain
For the chain slack? Its described in the manual. From the end of the rubber protection under the swing.
@@NomadSweden the rubber has 3 levels of height itself, thats why im confused
Can I make an appointment for service by Nomad? BTW - rear tire? % off/on road?
Motoz Tractionator Adventure. 75/25.
But if could make a 70/70 tyre that would be it 😊
I had a Tracer 900 and the OEM front sprocket had the rubber cushioning - just as the old one you took off. I always replaced with OEM front sprocket as I was told it was for noise dampening.
Do you notice a change in front sprocket noise with the replacement front sprocket that doesn't have the rubber cushion?
:-)
I did only a short ride, but no I noticed no change.
I believe this is a cushion drive sprocket to reduce shocks to your transmission / counter shaft to avoid damage to these components in extended road use. Someone correct me if I am incorrect. A common problem with many dual sports, especially 250cc class is that they don’t have cush drives from factory and this extended pavement use (thousands of km) can cause premature wear / damage to transmission components.
@@ExpeditionaryRanger Thanks for the info!
I did same on a Kawasaki 1.0 tried steal but was very noisy so got the damped one much quieter. Managed to find an Italian place on the net what made patterned damped front and rear sprockets
@@ExpeditionaryRanger - I believe that you are right - shock loading of the chain and sprockets are fiercest in off-road bikes, and cushioning would reduce the rate of wear, and importantly, chain breakage.
For anyone wanting to grease fasteners on their bikes for corrosion protection, reduce the manufacturer's torque setting by 5%. Torquing with a lubricant, called 'wet torque', will actually increase the torque by around 5%, so back off your torque wrench setting by that amount. Skål. 🍻
In all workshop manuals I’ve seen, they specify torque for lubed threads. It just doesn’t make sense bolting parts together without lubrication, there is NO benefit in adding friction in the threads. The whole idea is to create a axial pressure berween the parts, why add extra stress on the fasteners to reach that desired preload by adding extra friction?
How much do you adjust the chain?
The bike manual har the instructions. 43-48mm.
chain oiler a good idea?
I am not going to add one. I don't see the need, but some people like them.
As you changed the chain tension, how did you adjust the wheel, so that it is in line with the front wheel?
I don't compare front/back. I make sure the "tension markings" are the same on both sides which makes the wheel perfectly aligned unless the frame is crooked. What else can I do?
@@NomadSweden u could use a bar or pole to align to the wheels. So you can check whether the marks are correct. Think I read this in a XT500 manual.
Rene Moreau i use a laser on the back weeekend to tjek the Chain , and the weel is Line up
@@thomasorland9011 - Is that a handheld carpenter's laser that one can buy in a hardware store,
or is something more sophisticated needed?
Dave InWLA motostyle.dk/shop/dot-laser-til-3059p.html?gclid=CjwKCAjwkdL6BRAREiwA-kiczOdXn7Cewh_VMtS1kOHtYAkECUljawLH3reZgZe4o8wfOrsFg7A2AxoC3TwQAvD_BwE
Which tail tidy did you use ?
T7rally
I tried a steel sproket but had to revert to a damped one, bike got noisy, sourced one cheaper from Italy they also do a rear damped one if you wish
Thanks! Yes it was noisy at first but after some time it got quieter when it "married" with the chain.
Good job, nice vid just too many adds !!!
Thanks for the feedback. I will change it.
I had only one add so it may depend on the country from where you're watching.
Bra jobbat. Ska bara skaffa lite majonäs....hahahahahah
Would have looked cool if you went with a gold chain
😄
brake pads greasebearing seals
520/525/530 are the size of the chain (width) they cannot be exchanged....
? Not sure what you mean
@@NomadSweden the given number is literally inner roller width. You cannot replace 525 Chain with 520 since it will not fit your sprocket. Also you cannot put 530 chain since it will be too loose.
@@paweliwanow1189 Ok, I use 525 so no worries
Your front sprocket came off quite easily. If it was tighten to the right torque, which is 95 Nm.
it was correct...
😎🏍💨💨💨💨👍🏻🇨🇦
replacing a rubber damped sprocket with an undamped one is a downgrade.
I'm interested in the differences so I try the non-dampened. Wear-wise I can't say yet, but noise is a little bit higher without being disturbing.
Don't you think that T7 is a "naked king". Just good marketing. Only lazy rider is not competing in suspension adjustment. It is good off road, but too heavy to have a real fun. It jumps like a donkey on highway having resonance on rear suspension because of design of rear swingarm. I'm adjusting, adjusting and adjusting instead of having fun to ride. I'm treating my T7 like a baby and now I have some doubts if I have to. It appears to be very expensive toy for it's design. All cables are not weather protected and so forth...
65.000 km now and I'm still happy. Paid €10k for it in 2019.