How to - Tenere 700 valves and shims
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- čas přidán 7. 06. 2023
- The T7 has done over 40,000km now, so its due to have the valves checked. The first job is to get the rocker cover off (valve cover, head cover... whatever you want to call it since rockers dont exist anymore). I'd like to know how a yamaha tech does it.... it aint easy.
Next is to decipher the T7 workshop manual. Line up the mark.... but 180° is not the same as another 180°. But I worked it out in the end.
Hopefully this helps a bit if youre going to try it yourself. It might also encourage you to take your bike to the dealer ;)
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Nice job, mate. I remember doing my FZR 1000 Valves back in 1990. What a nightmare, 20 valves and half of that motorbike in pieces on the pavement. The list with my measurements and calculations was quite complicated as well. In the end everything worked out, but I never did it again after that! Will probably do it on my Tenere when the time comes, 8 Valves is not too bad. Thanks for posting the video of your work, Now I know how to approach it. Cheers from Germany.
Excellent example of why it costs so much to get the valves done at a bike shop.
Nicely explained.
Gotta say those gaps closing rather than opening when valves wear caught me by surprise. A little counterintuitive at first but when you think about it makes sense. Thanks for the video, learned a bunch.
Edit: Reading more comments I see I'm not the only one confused 😅
I once changed the shims in my old BMW Xchallenge and when I was putting the shims back I dropped one into the thin space between the valve and the head. Impossible to get it out even with tweezers so to avoid literally turning the bike upside down or pulling the motor out I made a special magnet. A 100mm nail would just fit down and touch the shim so I simply magnetized the nail by stroking it with a magnet. This magnetized it enough to attract the shim onto the nail and overcome the oil surface tension.
nightmares of a grown man
You are right in your assumption of dropping the engine down, we did this back in the UK to save time and try to keep costs down! I've got fond memories of wrestling the wiring looms for a spark plug change on my old T7!
Well done, Brenden, you have successfully convinced me that I do not want to take this project on.....but for lack of a good shop to take it to I may have to!!😐 Well done on the video making as well!!
That was a mission, nice work. 👏
Nice job. Sounds like moving the radiator might be the way to dewater a T7 instead of through the side! Cheers 4 sharing sir.
Yep... rad is easy, even with crash bars on.
I'm impressed with your abilities Nerb. It's all about having a go! You never shy away from the challenge. I like that!
Do you think changing Spark Plugs via the Radiator is an option?
I really enjoy these type of videos, and I'm liking the Yamaha quality of the T7. Well done! 👍😁
Yes, you can get to the plugs easy once the radiator is out... its only a matter of changing the coolant.
Nice job . Thanks for the information
Fairly difficult to get too.. Nice work mate 🇳🇴☕
Good job my friend enjoy your motorcicle
Nice video Nerb, very well explained. A bit more to it than doing my old WR250 F, and WR250R. (But same principal.) Funny thing with my 250F I aways had to adjust the Inlet shims but never the exhaust. I guess all the potentially dirty air is getting pulled in over the inlet seats and valves. In the end I had no adjustment left and replaced them with steel valves. Absolutely no difference in performance to the titanium ones and steel was better wearing. Not looking forward to doing Teena. 🤣
Theoretically, titanium valves should allow a higher rev limit since the springs don't have to fight the extra weight... But Id say the rev limiter is set much lower than steel valve bounce.
@@Nerb1 Yeah, 100%, probably more of a marketing ploy than anything.
This was super helpful to know what goes in a valve adjustment.
How do you like the closed tractive cartridges? I revalved them by a shop as I found them extremely harsh on anything that was not blasting through high speed.
Super simple.
Superb video Nerb...i will probably need to watch this 10 times before attempting it! Ps..just to make you laugh...i replaced my clutch switch as the T7 wouldn't start in gear...still wouldn't start in gear with the new switch!...then it dawned on me that i had recently adjusted the span of my clutch lever which wasn't allowing the switch to work 😢...😂😂 Cheers Steve
My time to do this in 10k km...thanks for the tutorial
Promise I didn’t do ANY comparisons to Tim the tool man Taylor…
Nice work. I’d have band aids all over my fingers after that.
I foresee a large amount of T7's on the used market with exactly 40,000 miles on them. 😆
Coz they're shit bikes.
@@Crust2013 KTM's have WAY shorter valve adjustment intervals. 15,000 kilometers, or 9,300 miles. So I guess you are saying your own bike is even shittier? All vehicles require maintenance bro.
@@mapache_del_sur your a guesser you write ..very knowledge pops out then.
That definitely looks like a job I would leave to the mechanic, but since I don´t have any nearby I will have to prepare for that moment. Question: does the tick in the engine desapears with the valve regyulation or is it a trademark from the cp2 engine?
For fucks sake it's even worse than I imagined it would be 😭 thanks for the video Nerb
I made it especially for you, since I remember you asked me if i'd done it yet. Definitely a pain, but since mine needed adjusting, you better not skip it.
@@Nerb1 you could have at least pretended it was easy 🙈 good to know what I'm in for tho cheers 🤙
useful content mr. nerb1... what's the size of the allen wrench for the cam chain tensioner?
Wow that oil looks clean, no sludge in Nerbs engine. What is your oil consumption like per 1000km Nerb??? Syntheitc oil does reduce the wear and tear on cams etc dramatically. My dad had a Cummins Signature 15 liter in a B-Double........and after 2 million km's it was checked by a mechanic for a valve adjustment, and it barely needed it. In normal conditions with mineral oil, it would be needed every 500,000km. Highly recommend Fuchs synthetic oils, made in Australia and they have taken over a lot of mining customers all over Australia.
Which method is better. dropping the engine or moving wiring?
Stay tuned for part 2
Bloody hell nerb talk about viewer retention 😅
Part 2 in two years ;)
Good on ya for giving it a go Nerb, but please watch Brock Davidson gen1 hayabusa ignition miss for all that you missed
Hope I didnt miss anything important! I'll look it up.
Actually, he has a 5 part series and they are hours long. If you noticed something I should have done, let me know. I take onboard all comments ;)
Hi Nerb.
Just off topic-in regards to your Simpson crossing on the T7, do you remember what your fuel usage was, total please?
What else is required at this interval? This is when you start thinking about:
actuation systems: shim over bucket, shim under bucket, and lock-nut and screw,
laid down engines all seem to be easier to access the head, but handling and aesthetics take precedence over serviceability. Yamaha likes a low crankshaft whereas Husaberg preferred a centralized CG.
🚂
Nothing else in the engine is due. Just all the fluids and linkages.
👍👍
Did you experience ticking noise prior to this adjustment? If so, is the ticking noise gone? Or was this done only because of the odometer? My tenere is ticking at only 1500 miles
How do valves get tighter nerb? I can understand looser, because of wear,, vibrations, engine use etc… but how does tighter happen ?? So clearance gets “tighter” as they wear, rather than “looser”? Maybe I am used to old skool engines where cams “wear” and the gap gets wider wider???
The valves wear against the head. As they wear, the top of the valve stem moves up, lifting the shim and bucket up toward the cam lobes.
Thank you for your brilliant photography and persistent mechanical aptitude, in showing us what a horrible machine this really is!
Haha, my pleasure!
Nerb, Correct me but you mentioned the gap closing up as it wears, won't the cap get larger as it wears?
no. It is the valve against the head that wears, not the shim or cam. The shim/bucket/cam are all well lubricated. The valve is at high temp inside the cylinder.
Sod that, ill take it to a bike shop mechanic.
How does the clearance get smaller with wear? Wouldn’t it get larger because the parts are wearing and the gap is getting bigger?
The shim does not wear. The pars that wears is the valve to the valve seat, inside the cylinder, making the valve move higher and higher. This closes up the gap.
Hey Nerb, How many hours did it take in total?
About 12, but over 3 days. It took about 4 hours for me just to get the cover off... but I did do a lot of staring. Then I did the first valve measure twice because I got confused about the exhaust stroke TDC and the compression stroke TDC.
@@Nerb1 Most ppl pay a lot of money to get the valve shims service done. I had a laugh at your total cost. I bought a shim kit for $77, Not realising I could have bought individual shims. 🤑🙄
Great video with good overwiev on the work however Your written comments at 7:10, 7:20 and 11:18 are not right. Cams pointing inward on TDC means its end of exhaust stroke and beginning of inlet stroke while manual state that for valve clearance reading you should set piston 1 on TDC on COMPRESION stroke means cams will be pointing outward. It may not be difference in measurement if You set up TDC on exhaust stroke perfectly but with very minor movements in any direction Exh or In cam will start to press the valve lifter and there is a room for error.
Also, your initial set up for removal of camshafts is other way round and it may be confusing if somebody won't notice you actually changed the position of crankshaft 360 degrees between 14:40 (when You undoing bolts of camshaft caps) and 15:05 when you removing them.
Thanks for posting the video, I have used your magnet trick and it worked great for me 👍
You are right. I clearly confused myself editing, because I checked them more than once in various positions before getting it right. I think from memory I had them in the wrong position when undoing the cap bolts, because one of the valves was pressed. I guess the moral is: "Use youtube tutorials as a guide, not gospel"!
So I should measure clearance at TDC with the lobes pointing out? and then rotate 360 Deg to remove camshafts? I was wondering why the cam shaft sprocket alignment marks were 180 degrees out from what was referred in the manual. I've got mine open at the moment. So any guidance would be valuable. Cheers.
@@KiwiGrom At one of the TDC there is some overlap of valves, so one of the valves is slightly depressed. Dont remove the bolts in this position because you stress the cam covers. At the other TDC all of the valves are closed, so you can unbolt it. I cant remember which way around it is, and I already buggered the written comments in the video, so just look closely ;) Also, its 270 degrees between tdc's, not 360.
Looking back at the manual, #1 cylinder (left side) should be at TDC with the lobes pointing outward to remove the cams. But check.
@@KiwiGrom Yes, You are correct. This is quite confusing but that is how it is stated in manual. Check clearance on piston 1 in TDC on compression stroke and remove camshaft on piston 1 in TDC on exhaust stroke.
could you share information about your crashbars?
They are the outback motortek bars. Im very happy with them.
Would it be better to remove the motor?
Thats just more work. I have tried tilting the motor forward and it works well.
🫠🫠🫠🫠
Why turning 180° further when you are already in compression stroke? You need 270° to go from 1 cylinder TDC comp to 2 cylinder TDC comp not 180°. This is a 270° crossplane engine. If IV and EV are closed, no need to stick anything down the spark hole. It's compression TDC. The crankshaft is even marked for both TDCs which is visible in the witness hole... Turning 90° then 180°.... dude this is a clusterfuck. It's good to know how an engine works before you do that...
If you think the T7 is bad, don’t try a 1200 super tenere.
the sims never is less ?? minimum mm??? i mean be more slim
I sold my T7 after trying to change the spark plugs LOL😉
Looks scary, but isn’t bad.