Placing the board on the lip , the pan set in mortar and a brass drain assembly (Don’t use the cheap plastic one) and you will never have a problem ! I have seen so many plumbing videos we’re the pans are just dropped in (HACKED) with no support underneath this causes flexing and squeaking and easy potential to hairline crack. Also you get what you pay for , Dreamliner showers sells very high quality pans with unbelievable support underneath and a super thick solid edge for glass door / screen installation .Living in a wooden structure condo complex on the 3 rd floor it’s what I recommend!!! All the videos I have seen why risk a leak with a mud pan / liner and curb ? I understand it looks AWESOME ,but I know bob wouldn’t travel to Massachusetts to do mine !!! Thanks as always bob for your unbelievable knowledge and time !! You are a MASTER in your craft !! Happy Easter and have a great weekend !
Thanks for the great insight. Building out a shower now with a pan. Using Schluter membrane as the waterproofing system, hoping that will help avoid problems like this one. Love the cat
Another option is to cut out the tiles horizontal at the height of the knee wall all around. Redo it with different tiles once the problem is found. An affordable option. Thanks for sharing!
Yes that was a consideration although it's kind of hard to cut into the corners... but yeah sometimes you have to do a different design intentionally so it looked as if you planned it that way
Great timing! We are looking to do a shower, but with a shower curtain, no glass walls. I'd love to see you discuss types of shower pan designs and which you prefer. Curbless slab-type trays, the type that is level with the floor, fiberglass drop ins like this one (I can tell already you're not a huge fan), I've seen vitreous china trays, or built on site and tiled, etc. So many options! I worry about maintenance of grout on shower floor. That's my only reservation with tile on the shower floor. - Also, love the cat. We have a "construction kitty" who always has to be where the action is.
In my area, most house have slab foundations preventing the plumbing to be attached from under the pan. The composite pans use a rubber compression sleeve to seal the drain to the drain pipe. In my experience, that is the most likely culprit.
Easiest things first. Work your way down. - liquid ptfe the shower head - check mixer valve and hot cold supply Garden hose in pan to test drain and possible cracks in pan ( stand in it and move different places every 100 seconds or so. ) Ask about handlebars or any trim work in bath in the last couple years. If all else fails. Then you have a waterproof issue.
I'm just getting ready to install one of these only it's not fiberglass, it's not acrylic, it's solid surface built by the Onyx Collection. It's 32" x 32" and weighs about 80 lbs. It also cost about $800.00 bucks. It is replacing a horribly stained acrylic piece of crap that's been there since we moved in 32 years ago. This solid surface shower pan is thick and does not require any mortar or bracing underneath. Just a level floor. It's easy to clean and is made of the same material all the way through so any staining can be cleaned off and look like new. I'm using Hydro-ban board going only down to the top of the lip, NOT inside the lip. If I do it right the first time i'm hoping it will be a lifetime shower. Yeah $800.00 bucks is a lot for a shower pan but you get what you pay for. Thanks for what you do StarrTile
You will be fine !! Best of luck,Im just finishing mine the same basic way and it’s all working out ! I recommend a brass drain assembly. Happy Easter !
I've installed a handful of those over the years but I make SURE it's properly supported by packing the corrugations under the pan with dry pack and nesting it into a healthy pile of mortor. I've gone behind others that didn't use mortor and after drilling a few holes through the subfloor I carefully filled the voids with dense spray foam. You have to be very familiar and experienced with the foam you use to prevent over or under filling but done correctly you can prevent future cracking. This is a major problem here, though. Each shower system demands special knowledge and proper installation. If done wrong at any stage, there will be problems.
These have a compression gasket around the drainpipe that will loosen overtime. The drain cover need be taken off and the compression sleeve/nut tightened up. Sometimes the drainpipe will slip down so it's imperative that be checked also.
i just want to say thanks, i learned a lot from you. When i want to check myself i watch one of your vids. You helped me more then you know, thank you.
Why title this video "FIBERGLASS SHOWER PAN LEAK"? If I understand what you're saying the pan is not leaking but rather the wall panel is probably wicking for being improperly installed. Correct? Maybe flex in the plastic pan is contributing factor making the caulk fail?
If they already precut to size with slight wiggle room then they definitely can be faster... So when you attach your backerboard did you set the bottom of the backer board on the edge or at the lip ? And which backer board did you use
Sealing the INSIDE of the shower track can be dangerous. If water is getting in higher, ALL the water could be forced into a screw hole, or off the side of the pan over the lip? (... if the bottom of the track fills up with water and has no way out.)
The bottom track usually has little cutouts where water can not only get in but also get out and evaporate.. And the bottom track doesn't have any screws, it is attached 100% with silicone and the downward pressure of the left and right track
I bet £100 that it’s filling up in the profile an over the 9 yrs that it’s been building up holding water an finally got between the tray,tile an profile at the bottom an is going down behind the tray an wicking up up the wall,I bet it’s been doing it pretty much since it was fitted an has saturated the plywood floor under the tray hence why he’s had to re seal the tray a few times because the floor would has partially dropped a little as it’s getting wetter an wetter,that was a pretty thick silicone bead round that tray where’s he’s tried fixing I looked at one today it’s done exactly the same it was only done 3 yrs ago 🤦🏼♂️I’ve had to book it in for September to re do the whole bathroom,there not best pleased with the person who did it 😬
I was thinking as a DIY shower build, these would be a safer option, clearly not? Maybe if they used cement board and something like red guard it would have been okay…
Well it was a little bit of both, a consultation along with an estimate to do the work, I never got the call back so I don't know what he decided to do
For me 9 times out of 10 when they have finished tiling they fit the screen then silicone up after which leaves a gap that’s not siliconed behind the profiles of the shower screen ,so you silicone the whole tray fit the screen then your only supposed to silicone the outside of the screen,the profiles are designed to let water in so it flows out underneath the screen back into the tray this is why you never seal both sides because most people do the silicone after fitting the screen so all the water goes down the gap that’s left behind the profile,I see it on a weekly basis 🤷🏻♂️
That could very well be part of the problem, the only issue is there's no family it's just a single guy and I doubt very much that he splashing that much water around
No I get that, it’s where the water hits the side of the screen if it’s not sealed behind the profile and screen has been siliconed on both sides then the water gets trapped in the shower profile and goes through gap that’s not sealed on the tray behind the profile at the bottom where the tray ,tile an the profile meet
Placing the board on the lip , the pan set in mortar and a brass drain assembly (Don’t use the cheap plastic one) and you will never have a problem ! I have seen so many plumbing videos we’re the pans are just dropped in (HACKED) with no support underneath this causes flexing and squeaking and easy potential to hairline crack. Also you get what you pay for , Dreamliner showers sells very high quality pans with unbelievable support underneath and a super thick solid edge for glass door / screen installation .Living in a wooden structure condo complex on the 3 rd floor it’s what I recommend!!! All the videos I have seen why risk a leak with a mud pan / liner and curb ? I understand it looks AWESOME ,but I know bob wouldn’t travel to Massachusetts to do mine !!! Thanks as always bob for your unbelievable knowledge and time !! You are a MASTER in your craft !! Happy Easter and have a great weekend !
Yes I would agree with everything you said... do it right the first time or not at all.
Also I appreciate the kind words, much appreciated ✌👍👌
Thanks for the great insight. Building out a shower now with a pan. Using Schluter membrane as the waterproofing system, hoping that will help avoid problems like this one. Love the cat
Another option is to cut out the tiles horizontal at the height of the knee wall all around. Redo it with different tiles once the problem is found. An affordable option. Thanks for sharing!
Yes that was a consideration although it's kind of hard to cut into the corners... but yeah sometimes you have to do a different design intentionally so it looked as if you planned it that way
Great timing! We are looking to do a shower, but with a shower curtain, no glass walls. I'd love to see you discuss types of shower pan designs and which you prefer. Curbless slab-type trays, the type that is level with the floor, fiberglass drop ins like this one (I can tell already you're not a huge fan), I've seen vitreous china trays, or built on site and tiled, etc. So many options! I worry about maintenance of grout on shower floor. That's my only reservation with tile on the shower floor. - Also, love the cat. We have a "construction kitty" who always has to be where the action is.
In my area, most house have slab foundations preventing the plumbing to be attached from under the pan. The composite pans use a rubber compression sleeve to seal the drain to the drain pipe. In my experience, that is the most likely culprit.
Easiest things first. Work your way down.
- liquid ptfe the shower head
- check mixer valve and hot cold supply
Garden hose in pan to test drain and possible cracks in pan ( stand in it and move different places every 100 seconds or so. )
Ask about handlebars or any trim work in bath in the last couple years.
If all else fails. Then you have a waterproof issue.
As always, good information!
Thank you ✌
I'm just getting ready to install one of these only it's not fiberglass, it's not acrylic, it's solid surface built by the Onyx Collection. It's 32" x 32" and weighs about 80 lbs. It also cost about $800.00 bucks. It is replacing a horribly stained acrylic piece of crap that's been there since we moved in 32 years ago. This solid surface shower pan is thick and does not require any mortar or bracing underneath. Just a level floor. It's easy to clean and is made of the same material all the way through so any staining can be cleaned off and look like new. I'm using Hydro-ban board going only down to the top of the lip, NOT inside the lip. If I do it right the first time i'm hoping it will be a lifetime shower. Yeah $800.00 bucks is a lot for a shower pan but you get what you pay for. Thanks for what you do StarrTile
That sounds awesome, hopefully it works out exactly as you planned.
And thank you very much for the kind words, I appreciate it a lot ✌👍
You will be fine !! Best of luck,Im just finishing mine the same basic way and it’s all working out ! I recommend a brass drain assembly. Happy Easter !
I've installed a handful of those over the years but I make SURE it's properly supported by packing the corrugations under the pan with dry pack and nesting it into a healthy pile of mortor.
I've gone behind others that didn't use mortor and after drilling a few holes through the subfloor I carefully filled the voids with dense spray foam.
You have to be very familiar and experienced with the foam you use to prevent over or under filling but done correctly you can prevent future cracking.
This is a major problem here, though.
Each shower system demands special knowledge and proper installation.
If done wrong at any stage, there will be problems.
that opening shot of midtown atlanta from piedmont though, nice o_0
Correct me if I'm wrong, but wouldn't the shower have leaked a lot earlier if the leak was between the valve and the shower head?
4:54 Always good to get a second opinion via a CAT scan.
These have a compression gasket around the drainpipe that will loosen overtime. The drain cover need be taken off and the compression sleeve/nut tightened up. Sometimes the drainpipe will slip down so it's imperative that be checked also.
i just want to say thanks, i learned a lot from you. When i want to check myself i watch one of your vids. You helped me more then you know, thank you.
Thank you so much, I appreciate the kind words... and I'm glad I could be of some assistance ✌
Purrrrfect video Bob!
🤣
Great job
Why title this video "FIBERGLASS SHOWER PAN LEAK"? If I understand what you're saying the pan is not leaking but rather the wall panel is probably wicking for being improperly installed. Correct? Maybe flex in the plastic pan is contributing factor making the caulk fail?
You could cut 6” above the pan all the way around? Replace the pan and dark brown tiles? I don’t think anyone will notice.
Have a great work sir goodluck
You can also use a thermal cam. Moisture will show up as dark spots
I just put on of those in. I didn't think it was any faster than a poured bed.
If they already precut to size with slight wiggle room then they definitely can be faster...
So when you attach your backerboard did you set the bottom of the backer board on the edge or at the lip ? And which backer board did you use
Sealing the INSIDE of the shower track can be dangerous. If water is getting in higher, ALL the water could be forced into a screw hole, or off the side of the pan over the lip?
(... if the bottom of the track fills up with water and has no way out.)
The bottom track usually has little cutouts where water can not only get in but also get out and evaporate..
And the bottom track doesn't have any screws, it is attached 100% with silicone and the downward pressure of the left and right track
I bet £100 that it’s filling up in the profile an over the 9 yrs that it’s been building up holding water an finally got between the tray,tile an profile at the bottom an is going down behind the tray an wicking up up the wall,I bet it’s been doing it pretty much since it was fitted an has saturated the plywood floor under the tray hence why he’s had to re seal the tray a few times because the floor would has partially dropped a little as it’s getting wetter an wetter,that was a pretty thick silicone bead round that tray where’s he’s tried fixing
I looked at one today it’s done exactly the same it was only done 3 yrs ago 🤦🏼♂️I’ve had to book it in for September to re do the whole bathroom,there not best pleased with the person who did it 😬
I was thinking as a DIY shower build, these would be a safer option, clearly not? Maybe if they used cement board and something like red guard it would have been okay…
Correct, that would take care of the issue if the wallboard was placed on the edge, however I would place it still on the lip same as a tub
I was wondering if you ended up fixing this one Bob or was it just a consultation ?
Well it was a little bit of both, a consultation along with an estimate to do the work, I never got the call back so I don't know what he decided to do
For me 9 times out of 10 when they have finished tiling they fit the screen then silicone up after which leaves a gap that’s not siliconed behind the profiles of the shower screen ,so you silicone the whole tray fit the screen then your only supposed to silicone the outside of the screen,the profiles are designed to let water in so it flows out underneath the screen back into the tray this is why you never seal both sides because most people do the silicone after fitting the screen so all the water goes down the gap that’s left behind the profile,I see it on a weekly basis 🤷🏻♂️
That could very well be part of the problem, the only issue is there's no family it's just a single guy and I doubt very much that he splashing that much water around
No I get that, it’s where the water hits the side of the screen if it’s not sealed behind the profile and screen has been siliconed on both sides then the water gets trapped in the shower profile and goes through gap that’s not sealed on the tray behind the profile at the bottom where the tray ,tile an the profile meet
But the bloke sounds like he’s not prepared to fix it properly.but your right it’s a complete rip out to solve the problem
The cat is awesome sauce
🐱
Def
Not a bad looking washroom. Too bad it failed.
It is actually a pretty good tile job, so yeah very disappointing that it failed
No dissection?
He never hired me
@@StarrTile maybe in another 6 months 🤣
New subscriber here sir
not the cat contributing his 2 cents!
3:20 Oh, cute kitty 🐱.
Keep safe
Because no preslope!
😂😂😂😂
Not a fan of these!