SHOWER PAN LEAKING ?? .....Mystery of Shower Leaks
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- čas přidán 17. 10. 2017
- Showers leak for different reasons so there's never a way to find out the cause...well maybe on rare occasions perhaps. But in the end there will be no way to fix it until you tear things out. However, it does not require tearing out the entire shower, only the pan area. In this video I begin the process but find it difficult to find the cause.
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The perforation of the rubber/vinyl shower pan liner by screws/nails is a very common cause of leaks. The entire engineering of how a shower is built needs to be revamped because it's too easy for a less-able shower constructor to doom the lifespan of a new shower to just a few years.
In the Navy, all the systems were made 'idiot-proof' by the industry suppliers/vendors because the average enlisted guy is tasked to work on them. You build stuff assuming a chimpanzee will be working on them and then you have some margin of protection. That needs to be done in the contractor industry.
Having to rebuild a very nice-looking shower like the one you're showing us is a shame. Some of us have had marriages that lasted longer than this shower!
The best ‘show me why/how’ video I’ve ever seen.
What a great video, my shower is having exactly the same problem, and I feel so much more informed now when I talk to a professional to fix it!! Thanks for taking the time to record this, it’s like GOLD!!
Root cause: the installer who cut the sloppy hole too large in the subfloor. Awesome video!
thanks for thinking out loud and showing the process you go through in diagnosing this problem.
I'm very appreciative of this intuitive video, I consider Bob's efforts a documentary with very useful dialect for people like me with shower leaks. Thanks again
We currently have this same issue. Due to the floating drain, unsupported drain, the weight of the person in the shower stepping on the shower drain pushes the drain down. We do not have any water leaking when just the shower is on. It leaks when someone is in the shower.... stepping on the drain. In this video... the plastic drain flange cracked from the weight. Anyone buying a two story home, stipulate in your purchase docs that all 2nd florr showers, sinks must have adequate support for the drains that equals the surrounding stuctures. To support any weight estimated to affect the structure without flexing. Floor flexing WILL cause drain leaks. We just moved into our house.... living room ceiling now has a hole under the shower drain like the start of this video. Support the drain.... or you will get a leak. Test... step on the drain.... if it moves AT all downward.... it will eventually leak, if its not leaking already.
Bob you’ve literally saved me thousands of dollars. I fired my tile installer after the first day he started laying the floor tile, most of issues I’ve diagnosed based on learning from you. I can easily spot a crap job now :)
Mas Fajitas Por Favor what was he doing wrong?
Sir, I enjoyed your assessment of this failure; my shower developed the same issue, a cracked drain vertical through the threads. I'm taking out the stand alone shower and using the space as a linen closet; keeping the new drain as a water shed drain in the event of a water leak in the bathroom area. The curb on my shower and the pan were full of holes and contributed to the sub flooring being completely soaked which then cause a major leak in the ceiling below the drain that cause a 2 X 3 ceiling rupture in the downstairs bathroom directly below the upstairs shower. I'm in the process of doing the repairs myself. This is a great video, thank you...Joseph
i like the way he admits that the bottom row of tile won't be a problem. it was glued wrong but will hold
This is so helpful to me as a condo owner underneath a leaking separately owned condo shower. It has taken issue number three (who is also a contractor hence he can see things from a different point of view, I think similarly to the way you view things), year #7. Other problems were addressed and at least slowed down or temporarily delayed finding the real issue. And honestly, those issues had to do with water coming out from under a poorly hung shower door onto the tile floor and people just didn't use that bathroom because there was a second one available. Now there's three people up there and they have to use it! Except now they can't :-(
Instance number three, plumber number 3, somehow someway got his camera up under their floor to see a soaking wet liner. We still don't know why it's soaking wet and of course it's not even my unit. The new renters apparently have no idea what is about to happen to the unit they are renting for thousands of dollars and I'm not telling them! All I'm telling them is please don't use it yet! :-) Anyway, I have been so curious about the layers and the proper way of doing this. Thanks for showing step by step and all the things you thought then ruled out. That step by step process is exactly what this final plumber used. Finally just as an interesting problem solving measure he did put a new flange, onto the drain first and we could not tell if that helped or not. So then he completely covered the drain and the flange and let the shower base fill. And that is when it started raining through my open ceiling. Well it wasn't the drain LOL. Again thank you, I loved this :-)
3 AM...I had to see mystery solved before bed!
I know this is an old video, but my unlicensed, unprofessional guess is that you DID find the issue. Being that you said the house was 17 years old and the shower was like 8 years old, I would guess that the person did not cut that hole. I think that is the original hole and the flange or whatever was bigger originally and they probably stopped making them that big by the time the 8 year old shower was installed. So I think the person just fit the flange in and figured with the pan liner he could just put it in and because the flange was lower and because water typically runs down with gravity, it would not leak. He didn't anticipate the drain ever being clogged and backed up. Again, I believe you DID find the issue.
Honest, forthcoming and fastidious. Good job.
I just renovated and gutted 4 bathrooms in my home. There was no back up water coming through the floor drain.
The problem was that the plumber forgot to apply a silicone waterproof sealant between the pan liner and the flange, and also apply silicone to the 4 bolt holes through the pan liner. The silicone acts as a gasket seal. As a separate issue, someone stepped on the floor drain and cracked it because there was inadequate support from the subfloor to hold the flange being cut too big. This would cause the pan liner to stretch even more along the bolt holes and without silicone sealant would create a thin opening for water to pass through the bolt holes. I applied silicone on top of the bolts and around the flange for all of my bathrooms, before I started to drypack the slope inside.
My guess is that although the customer was not aware of a backup, it was indeed a backup. Not draining quite as fast as the water was coming in and rather than showing in the shower it was leaking up under the pan unnoticed. I would also guess that it would have occured with or without the crack in the drain. My 2¢
It wasn't installed according to the drain manufacturer's specs. I have always used Oatey's drains and liners installed according to their instructions and never had a problem. The base flange should be in a much smaller hole and fully supported by the subfloor. Then the pre slope matches the height of the drain above the subfloor. It's a system, if you adhere to it it works.
I literally felt like I was watching Dateline NBC, my friggin blood pressure was going up and I was like "who did it-who did it",
BUT unlike Dateline I was left feeling a little empty and unsatisfied at the end :)
He sounds like that contractor who comes to your house a full week and quotes you 5 different prices
He talks too much
Great video man!!!! I love this style, "Guess the problem!"
That flange looked cracked around one of the bolt holes. I'm almost positive the water came in through the bolt holes and leaked up underneath the liner, because they didn't have enough silicone attaching the liner to the drain.
I usually put a sponge in the drain to clog it. Pour 1 gallon of water in and wait 30 min's. If there isn't a leak pour 2-3 more gallons in to see if I can get it to leak before the water reaches the walls.
I've run into this exact drain problem 3 times from previous contractors. It's always the liner not being siliconed properly.
Hmmm I may try this to figure out why my shower is leaking into the kitchen below. I thought it was a pin hole in the liner but I sealed it and it still leaked. Now there's water sitting in the shower drain under the cap. Hence I haven't used it in over a year and a half. I just take baths.
I've watched so many of your videos and really feel like I've got a good understanding of all these pieces and parts. That is- until I noticed 2 wet drops on the floor downstairs and realized my ceiling was leaking directly under a 100 year-old walk-in shower. I'm thinking my situation is exactly like the one in this video...which kinda makes me sick to my stomach because this is going to be expensive.
Nice video -- loved your walk-thru.
Thanks for explaining all of this, I'm learning a lot.
I'm redoing my 7th house. I always contract my tile work to a Venezuelan guy. He's the best I know. I'm usually too busy putting out fires checking other subs, picking up materials etc. This time I just worked as my tile guys assistant. Since watching your videos I wanted to learn more. I always set the tub or stub out the plumbing myself. He does nothing like you do. He uses mastic to stick kurdi to the walls, uses a polymer type cement to build the pan with a half bubble slope. Then after a few days of drying he puts tile on the walls, then later does the tile on the very top and bottom of the walls, then he does the floor, step and bullnose. Grout 24 hours later then I seal it after another day or 2. He takes so much care and it's all he's ever done. What I pay him comes to about 35.00 an hour. His actual time on the job is about 25 hours over about 4 or 5 days. He's a master tradesman. It was a privilege to be his helper and learn from him. (25 hours was just for the tile work, I built the shower, stubbed the plumbing)
He must be an illegal immigrant if you're ripping him off like that.
That's a head scratcher! We have never seen anything like that. Great dissection video, thanks for sharing.
Great video, thanks for the great content. You do fantastic work.
Good video and had me wondering too, the only thing that makes sense is its caused by the combination of cracking, pressure, and no anchor.
28:00 is obvious the water got under the liner around the shotty drain and spread from there, the liner is visible soaked around drain cut hole, that much play by hand the homeowner had to feel some movement just taking a shower and putting weight on the drain, I believe the water from that movement worked it's way under the liner and did so for years, much like those bs toilet rings with the inner gasket- water with every flush splashes back up that and eventually works it's way out from toilet,,,, conclusion the drain being set below floor in a hole much too large, allowing play and movement and the short cut liner allowed water to get under the pan liner at the drain hole and spread from there accounting for all dry edges around the pan, the wood is notably wetter around the drain,
The weight of someone standing in the shower they stepped on the drain cover which pushed the unsupported flange down, pulling it away from the liner that was not caulked to the flange leaving a fairly large gap between the liner and flange when the shower was in use. The crack probably also happened due to the weight.
Just found your channel and love it..very helpful stuff..thank you
And thank you ;-)
Mind boggling to install such a nice looking shower without bothering to waterproof it.
I'm in the process of a pan rebuild. What do you do to mitigate the seam created 1 ft up on the wall? How do you save the backing seam for backing and tile seam offset?
I would recommend using a hearty product made of concrete instead of plywood or OSB the subflooring
It is possible that the crack (and lack of caulking) allowed the adhesion and cohesive properties of liquids to (through capillary action) bring the water up through the crack (as a pipeline water can even go against the force of gravity) and onto the plywood decking.
This is a fascinating video it has a air of murder mystery about it....I learned a lot thanks.. I have two words for the Graduate: RED GARD
I totally agree with everything in your video but one thing comes to mind is when you cut across the bottom of that second roll of tile I would think to leave about 3/4” of the existing wall board so when I add my new wall board it anchors into a wall stud that I would put in that would give me a duel attached point to that new rear stud adding more structural support for new tile to old, would you agree or is it not needed?
Should there have been waterproofing and waterproofing tape on the shower base and around the drain flange?
Great explanationn and small crack caused....
Put weight on the pan near the drain and run water. Probanly would show the leak at the flange. Why it's hard to find the leak is because it only happens when the weight of a person causes the small flange issues to worsen. I've run into similar issues with drains built like this one.
Do you think a ready made pan from innovative tile soulutions would work for a pan redo, to save time of pan install and put back?
I think found the clue: 1.- It looks it wasn't a real "liquid leak"., as you could see when you uncovered the tile on the curb and floor corners, where you find moisture OVER the red liner. The main problem, with the playwood, (sub floor), is tottally clear , around the drain.
2.-When you lift the red linen, I can see a wrong thing; They cut the circle at the size of the interior circle. The red linen works perfect if you cut the circle OUT of the bolts; it' has been a 4 inches diam. circle, period; no more not less.The locking ring will seal the linen once the bolts are tighten enough. More over, you don't need to caulk between the red linen and the drain base I mean, iIf the linen go trough the interior part of the drain, it'll start geting steam vapor from the hot water running into the drain. Steam makes high pressure and can raise the red linen, going between the linen and the subfloor; later, coming cold, it transfer into condensed moisture. Of course, this has been a really slow and small process, ( leak ), during probably several years. At the beginning of the video , when you are looking into the ceiling, there isn't any real leak on the drywall ceiling, or the joists.
3.- The cut in the sub floor was too big; It also has to be 4 FOUR inches, period, (again). THe Fixture was loose and , then , the drain base broke; once the drain was broken, the steam got better way to go trough .
There's no sense to leave the drain "floating" in the air; because, as we can see underneat, the pipe line isn't tottaly fixed to the floor, or the joist . Probably, the plumber, electricians, drywall guys,or any other worker hit the drain pipe and brake the drain base. They should set a piece of playwood underneat and fill the space around the drain base with some mortar or grout.
I couldn't see how they solved the red linen at the corners to avoid any future leaks.
Interesting video, working as a "Coroner Plumbers" .
I wonder if there is a way to to run a water based dye to flood the pan with before demo to better trace a pan/drain failure?
Thanks for the video. I've repaired many of these also. I did repair one where the drain assembly was cracked. I was able to replace the drain assembly from the bottom and top without replacing all of the mud bed or wall tile. I patched a piece of vinyl liner in and installed.
I was surprised you didn't mention a pre-slope.
I like the Schluter system and have done many, but still prefer the mud application. What I've added in the last 3 or 4 years is a couple of applications of Laticrete Hydroban over everything including up the backerboard 6 "or 8" tied into the application over the mud bed. Quick evacuation.
Any experience on clearing the weep holes? Or making new ones?
Thanks again
Can you explain how you did this a bit more? In theory the flange is sandwiched between the subfloor and finished surface. I can't picture how you made your patch.
Great video!! 👍 ty
If the house is on a septic it could have backed up enough to cause that problem if not then it’s from them stepping on the drain not being supported because the grout was gone and they had it caulked in where the grout was gone
Is it best to completely take out tile? I know it’s my shower pan leaking. I am hoping to be economical. I can tear out the tile. I know I’ll have to hire a professional to redo. This video is helpful.
I wish you had a follow up video regarding the marrying of new tile to old.
hi, i have a floor shower tile that look pourous in a couple of spots,, its about 5cm in length, not a straight line, it looks like a whtie cloud,,,,,,you can tell it look worn because the glaze has come off and it just looks like cement in those spots,,,,, do you have any advise on how i can fix/waterproof ??,, thank you!
Always pressure test the pipes and a dye test before any major works commence
#1 plug the drain could even be the rubber stopper over the drain...get water from somewhere eles, i like a hose if possible, but absolutely not from the bathroom your looking for the leak in..fill the pan to the threshold. .let it stand 2 days.... If it leaks you got a pan problem..... #2 if not let it drain, if it leaks you have a drain problem .#3if not remove your shower head and cap the shower are, turn on water & check valve & shower arm for leaks.. Same if you have bady sprays...if it's none of that its the walls.
My guess is it was a combination of cracked flange, lack of caulking at the flange, poor support for the flange, maybe loose bolts.
Did Red Gard, etc. even exist when this shower was built?
I'm currently dealing with same shower drain issue at a neighbors house when it waa redone a few years ago. The drain is not supported and no p trap installed. So over last few years it looks to be flange is cracked and water is leaking real bad around flange and I mean alot of water. I assume alao because of no p trap. From drain to a 90 maybe 2 to 3 inch than horizontal plumbing to the main. It also looks like the horizontal abs pipe is angled towards shower drain and not towards main drain. Another issue is the sink drain runs right to same as it is a t so as when sink is on it backs up into shower drain thus water rising from under shower pan and i assume cracked shower flange since no support. I will be breaking up tile and inspect tonight and will let you know also. This leak seems to be of exact same issue from this video. I can only assume over a few years and drain location is where one stands to shower as there is no choice not to stand on drain in this shower and no support on shower flange is the cause for water to leak at a very high rate under floor into room below. Plus the fact no p trap and wrong angle of horizontal abs to main
Good thing my drain will never crack. I used the steel drain cause I hot mopped the shower.. and I drilled some screws in the edges something I learned from starrtile in another video.
Thats what I was wondering. I cut my plywood at an angle and drain can sit flush on the wood and not go through. But the abs pipe is pushing up 1/4 inch. Can I drill some screws into the black abs plastic?
webmandman i drilled holes on a different system. My drain is not plastic or pvc and my pan was hot mopped meaning roof tar was used I did not use a pvc liner. Maybe starrtlie can give you an answer but since your drain is plastic I would go under and brace it from under the crawl space I wouldn't drill holes into it.. I assume you have space under the house since your using plywood..
ok cool. thank you.
Literally thanks
Did you have to tear out the rest of the tile so it would match or did the customer have some leftover tile to use?
Drain flange was installed incorrect that was the only problem aside from that amazing job.
Could the leak be caused by the crack in the drain body visible at 31:20 near the one weep hole? Maybe that was caused during the removal, as I don't remembering seeing it while it was installed. Edit: Oh, I see you talk about it at 32:20 ☺️.
Hi mate, I'm a Waterproofer and Tiler in Australia. Licenced in both.
I've been doing rip-out and re-instatement of leaking showers/bthrms for 35yrs.
Whenever I take out the shower floor and find a cracked leak flange I know I have found the problem.
Water can track where you wouldn't think it possibly could, even if p0lyurethane applied over the crack. Which means the flange was put in already cracked. And the flange technically unsupported properly, always leads to movement and gap creation at this most critical point.
Never done one like this that this wasn't the problem.
Bruce from Oz
No tray fits my tiny shower space. (65x75 cm = 25.5"x29.5") Can you cut a shower tray? How do you cut a 3d acrylic surface?
As a 1-year temporary fix, could I use multiple layers of liquid membrane instead of a tray? (I actually want the fix to be temporary. Don't ask.)
Unrelated question- I have a tub with an og drum trap. The exit pipe on the drum is exactly the same height as the tub drain. Lowering that waste line is out of the question. Does this mean I'm stuck with the drum trap? I'm not able to install a p-trap that raises to meet the existing waste pipe, correct?
You're asking the right question to the wrong person, better posed to a plumber..
The only way I could answer that question definitively is if I were there and had knowledge of all the intricacies
walk in showers are not meant over wooden floors, there designed for concrete flooring such as basements or slabs
They are meant for wooden floors of prep work is done right from the beginning
Did the right thing. Had to get to the drain.
I had a shower pan leak from an upstairs shower. I was working in my garage directly below, when my young grandson was taking a shower. I suddenly saw water leaking from the ceiling and found water was running down the sides of the drain pipe. I found that he had stuck a small murf ball into the drain and the shower pan had filled with water. After removing the ball the leak was gone. I concluded the the drain seals on the shower pan were not meant to hold the higher water pressure that resulted from the clogged drain. As long as the water flows across the water seals it does its job ok. One other time the drain clogged and water built up once again in the pan and the same leak resulted. So, as long as no clog, no problem. Maybe somebody out there has the same condition.
Wtf is a murf ball? Did you mean nerf or moth ball?
@@klenmcrock5265 Yes, sorry.....nerf ball.
We can't figure out what's going on with our shower. My landlord's got to call a plumber. I think it's a leak somewhere. If you see this and have any ideas I would love to hear. So we haven't on suite bathroom and everytime we use the shower When I leave the bathroom the carpet in my bedroom right outside the bathroom door is wet. Know the bathroom floor is not getting wet so I don't know what is causing the carpet to get wet in the bedroom. I looked at the ceiling underneath the shower and it it's fine it doesn't look like there's any water getting through to that part. But it is a new issue so I don't know if overtime we will start noticing water down there
How far is the carpet from the shower?
I'm late to the viewing- I don't think the drain moves with weight of a person because it is supported by the concrete under the barrel. But there will be a small gap around the barrel where the concrete shrinks as it cures and pulls away from the barrel. Water can go down this, through the bolt holes, under the liner. Even if caulked underneath the bolt holes are still open on the bottom. Caulk under the liner and put caulk on the bolts to seal up everything between liner and drain pipe. Might be too simplistic to think that the water will drip off the edge of the liner into the drain, isn't there a lot of splashing going on inside there to get water up under that lip?
The only other reason would be is over tightening of the flange bolts
It’s usually always the drain on my end.
My opinion is tge glue from the liner to the flange is the major issue.
Drain was loose, the weight of a human stepping on that flange would've caused it to move every time someone showered.
I think it can be found doing a pan test. it would let you know weather the shower valve is leaking, shower pan or shower drain .
Can you explain how to do a Pan test. I want to try it before calling someone to look at it. At least I can act like I know a lil something
Coincidentally I have that video popping up on my Channel first thing in the morning, you can have a look at it ✔
@@MzVee106 JUST GET A 1 1/2'' TEST BALL PUT IN THE DRAIN THEN FILL IT UP
@@Hever73 Thanks
@@StarrTile ok I'll check it out, Thanks
Did you ever determine the cause of the leak? Or did you simply resolve it by re-installing the membrane, mortar and tile? I am having the same problem with a shower that is leaking - it is over an underneath garage where I noticed the leak I thought it might me a plumbing leak, but not sure. It seems unusual that a shower leak would occur years after install, but after watching this I might me wrong. Thanks in advance for your time !
It almost never matters and 99.9% of the time I can never find the cause because I have to kill the patient to find the disease, but yes going forward you just replace everything from ankle below
I would bet that the drain weep holes was block.
Wish you were my plumber/repairmen
One of my shower stalls it was the drain that was leaking it was put in like at a 20° angle I've never seen anything so half-assed in my life. And this has been like this since the original because my grandparents were the original buyers and I know they didn't touch it in the first 20 years that they lived here before they passed away and I've been here ever since. The place is built in 1980 in Cape Cod and they cut and chewed up any and every code violation they possibly could I don't even think they are taking codes back then in Cape Cod. My second shower stall however the bathtub has major structural cracks across from side to side two of them. What made this drain a real nasty one is a used like liquid cement all around the top in order to glue it to the fiberglass tub which was a son of a bitch to remove. It must have taken me 6 hours to get it enough removed that I could actually get the thing out. Must drilled 30 + small holes around it and then carefully chiseled between each of them trying not to damage the actual tub itself. It was the hardest shower drain removal that I think I have ever done I've been doing this type of work for 40 years. I am disabled now but I still consider myself one of the best when it comes to doing this work I just can't do nearly as much as it as I once could. God damn Crohn's disease
I had a shower redone last year and they used spit bonding. I wish I had seen your videos before we did that job as I could have called them out on cutting corners. I just hope the shower lasts. You can’t trust anyone anymore.
Surprised the comments are on.
It leaked because the drain was not properly sloped. Ask the owner if the water every backed up or slow to drain when they used the slower. You can tell the build up by the residue you wiped off underneath the pan liner.
I agree with this. even if it never "backed up" it still could have had a slow egress, and constantly drained into the pan/substraight
Do those drains suck because I'm about to use practically the same one ,doesn't have holes to hold it down
Yeah I don't use them...I get mine at Home Depot
StarrTile just installed it damn might change it before I put rubber liner
Which do you use sorry it's so late just txt when u get chance , because I already have that cut made for this junk one
Anchor it from bottom with pipe strap, you'll be ok.
Sounds good thanks again
The drain was cracked and leaking. The pan was not sealed properly to the drain you can no us regular caulking. Tub and tile caulking is water based and may never dry. that is the problem, I know I'm a real plumber!
That drain backed up no doubt about it.clean out the pipes first
How did it get the plywood wet by a backup?
Mabe the pan had a leak you should of water test the pan
there was probably a pinhole in the pan liner
Improper drain install - it all spreads out from the drain.
We're In the process of trying to figure out where our master shower is leaking. If we call in a professional such as yourself, how much will that cost us (on average, in your experience)?
Whenever I do a consultation I cannot promise any type of result, has a rule you can never find where the leak is coming from just by looking at it, and even if you did find out it would still require a fix would be a whole shower pan redo, you almost need to kill the patient to find the disease and then it's past too late, but typically it would be about $100 or perhaps more for an in-person consultation
What does this have to do with replacing a drain pan??
This video is not about replacing a pan. It is about why showers leak. Most people wrongly think it is because the shower pan is leaking. This video is to show it is often not the shower pan leaking, but something secondary to the shower pan. This gentleman has another video on how to install a shower pan liner.
18:21 Massive hole in liner. Did you do that?
More than likely yes..but that was not the cause of the leak.
I'd bet a million dollar it was the drain! Plumbing can't have any movement on a floor drain. Them walking on it will cause a leak. Completely did rough in wrong on Plumbing and sheeting..
I agree. It would be help to check the level of the subfloor that would explain where the distribution of the wet areas.
Dropped a carpenter knife on the shower pan....takes one time.
Just use flex seal it will be fine
My basement shower drains in my garage. How do I fix it.
You have to get the shower pan replaced, that requires tearing out everything down to the wood
I have same problem
No caulk on between flange and liner !!
well, the drain has 4 screws to secure the shower pan, thats a really poor design, here in norway its 16 screws to secure it tight.
JHLEGOvids; in the USA, this flange is very common. I’ve never seen one that was more than 4 bolts. More bolts is more penetrations which could lead to many more opportunities to leak.
Please help me!!!!!!!!!!!
My contractor used some self leveling cement to place the shower liner/pan on top of. It also seems that the drain was not attached to the subfloor, kinda of floating.
We asked if that was correct, he said don't worry, that he will pitch the tiles...
After he completed the entire bathroom, and ran the shower for a few minutes. You know what happened?????
Drip drip drip drip drip drip drip drip drip!!!!!!!!!
I never got to use the shower!!!!!
Two days later he is still trying to find the leak!!!!!!!
I feel he need to remove the shower doors, and possible take up the pan and start over with setting the drain the correct way!!!!!!
I'm sorry to hear about all your issues you're having with your new shower, obviously the guy you hired does not build them otherwise you wouldn't have run into all those problems. There is absolutely no way to tell where the leak is coming from or even to mitigate the problem, it all has to be torn out from about 1 tile up the wall and everything below and start over again.. but obviously he did a lot of things wrong to cause it to be that way so you need to get him to fix it ...although as I think about it if he screwed it up once then he'll screw it up again, better to find somebody else
It is always important to do a test run before you install you install the shower pan. I just install an acrylic shower pan which has to be cemented under the base to the floor. Prior to doing so I ran several test of pouring buckets of water in the shower pan drain to make sure no leaks were noted between the bathroom floor and ceiling floor down stairs
All that dirt on the flange tells me the water was some how flowing over the top of the flange.
👍👍
What if a brand new shower does this after 5 months
Well that just simply means that whoever built your shower failed
I would also have to say that the floating drain was 90% of the problem with the shift of weight would allow water to seep in all around the drain I would think
Probably liner was damaged from begining. Some ppl just walk in it with their boots . I never wear boots when doing such a work not to damage liner. They’re might be tons of other reason why. But i think either liner was defective or they made few mini holes in it. Everything is posible
I had a new shower placed for five months ago and when the shower runs too long, it leaks in the basement but when you take a short shower, it doesn’t leak so I’m having a plumber come out this next week. Any suggestions that you can think of?😮
We had a similar situation - leaks occurred after leaving the shower on for a while, ie long shower. The cause was the loose tiles caulking. Many tiles were removed in whole piece by hand. This was still an expensive fix by taking tiles off and putting them back.
I'm having similar issues, did you find out what was the cause of yours ?