3 years later man is still liking comments, what a legend, batteling p0012 code, changed everything, those filters are the last hope! Rpms jump to 1200 after every start up, hopefully it works, much love from Cali
Hi George, I am an ex vehicle mechanic, I was on the spanners for 32 years before i moved over to vehicle collision estimating, 3 weeks ago i bought an E86 with the N52 3.0 engine, I was looking at Datsun 240/260Z S30's for stupid ££ and suddenly realized the E86 is the 2000's equivalent so i had to get one being like ££ cheaper and they don't fall apart with rust issues! It is my first BMW at 61 years old!! I've been out of car mechanics for a long time but the basics never change, I just need updating! Your content on repairing the N52 is top notch mate, I've saved all your videos for the jobs i have to do on my Z4 Coupe as you are very methodical and precise and will save me a bit of head scratching! I'm obviously subbed to your channel and you come across so much better and knowledgeable than other so called BMW 'Expert's' on CZcams IMO. 👌
Just a heads up for any bmw e83 owners. After removing the wheel well trim I found myself staring at more metal under it. No opening to access the valves after lifting the car and removing everything. Ended up replacing them through the top with a handy short swivel extension with a T40 3/8 drive
just got done replacing my two vans and engine no power when starting up revs up by itslf and guess what!!!!! I am going to do these tonight!!!!! hopefully this will cure my disease... Thanks, George!!!!! Much respect dude!!! you are my legend!!!!
Yes, people replace the Illinois all the time and never check these check valves and still get VANOS codes. Thank you for this video. This video should be posted for more than a solenoid replacement video.
Just bought a 07 n51 e92 with 100k and it’s been neglected and sat for a while. I’ve dealt with various issues on this car but the one issue that was driving me insane was a pretty major rough idle changed both vanos’s, did a engine flush, changed spark plugs, ignition coils, intake filter, and a shit ton of other things. but then it came down to the check filters and they were so dirty I couldn’t believe it like 20 times worse then in this video. after cleaning them the idles 100 times smoother, it’s still slightly there but I think this car needs to be driven and flushed more. For anyone having trouble on a n51 take out the stupid emission friendly intake and loosen up the coolant reserve. then take out the tire, wheel well etc. it’s a bit of a pain and I had to switch constantly between short and long extensions and use my hands once it was lose but you’ll get it eventually.
Thanks for detailed video mate! I have experienced that these little valves can make a huge difference! I have used to clean them each time when doing oil change. Anyway now I have decided to change them for OEM ones, what was interesting that old ones (also OEM) dont click if you shake it but the new ones do click
Great video man but I must say I didn't see you shaking those check valves to see if the inside mechanism is free maybe next time you make sure you free the inside mechanism by cleaning and taping on them 😃
Just done this on my 175thou 130i. Had a bit of a rough idle at cold start. Despite them looking pretty clean, the first start afterwards was completely stable. It can be done from above in about 15 minutes without removing anything once you have them located. I used a 3/8 T40 on a 120mm extension bar. Absolutely no need to go removing wheels and arch liners in my opinion.
@@GeorgeAusters If I hadn't watched your video first to see where they were then I wouldn't either! Was very helpful, even if I didn't use the same method. Keep up the good work.
I just done mine George but used an inspection mirror and head torch to do the fiddly bit so didn't he to remove inner wheel arch, removing the electric cables a good idea.
You can get to them after taking the plastic cover off and using a mirror on a stick and the torx on a swivel head 1/4” drive ratchet with a short extension clean them with Castrol Super Clean after carefully taking off or covering the o rings with Teflon grease or Teflon tape, and a few wraps of electrical tape, especially if using brake parts cleaner, electrical parts cleaner (doesn’t really clean anything) or Jet Spray gum-out carburetor cleaner.Naptha works well, (Charcoal lighter)
I just did it this morning, its quite clogged and dirty, after a good clean up with carb cleaner. Install it and take a short drive and I notice acceleration improve at lower rpm.
gonna do this today... going to try and get them thru the top, expecting to see some nasty valves. I've cleaned the solenoids a couple times and experience much better running afterward. can anyone explain to me how these check valves work? Where is the oil flowing to? (and where is it not allowed to flow back towards?)
I tried to get at these valves on my 2008 528i, but I couldn't get a good angle on them because of body panels. I was able to get the torx on one of them at an angle, but not the other. I was afraid that if I did manage to get one off, replacing it would be risky, it could fall down be be difficult to recover.
Hi George, great video again. Very good idear to do a video about this fogoten filters.It seems that the next work will be your front break disc, isn't it?
Hi, I watch this video I clean the vanos check Valvs but the probelem is now the car don’t start again, says that the problem is control starter motor clamp 50 I don’t know what to do thanks
7:25 just a friendly tip - with that many extensions you are losing torque. You'd be losing torque on a single extension depending on the lenght but if you combine multiple then if you set the 15 Nm on the torque wrench then you may end up with let's say 12Nm on the end with that setup. Thermal expansion along with the thinck O ring probably help to keep everything locked in place and sealed but should you ever notice minor oil leaks around your engine block in that area (or the floor where you park) this may be the cause later... alongside with many other sources of course, like the oil pressure switch and what not :D A good idea to make sure everything is allright is to clean the area with brake cleaner thoroughly once you're done and check back on that spot later. 1st check after a week or two to see immediate issues right away but the 2nd check might be a few months and decent kilometers so you have a good running history to compare with. If you're good then leave it and don't go fixing things that aren't broken. Even it may have like 13,68427 Nm of torque instead of 15 Nm but if it works don't disturb the peace :D Again, no hate, just a friendly tip. Happy driving :)
i've just changed the vanos solenoids and i still get error code 2A82 when i push hard the gas pedal, at high speeds the error comes back.. what's wrong with it ?
Can someone please help, I tried removing the check valve and it unscrewed all the way out but it's not popping out. It keeps on spinning at the end. I have no way to grab it and pull it out. I believe the compressed O-ring is still holding it in. The engine is N52. Has anyone got any ideas?
I have N52, P0012 error code. I installed 2 new cam sensors, 2 new vanos solenoids, new non return solenoids valves, new oil change with new oil cap, and still have the code with bad idle the first 5 seconds when I start the car. Any input?
Hi Great video Sir, and explanation , I have a question::: does the 2013 x5 N55 (3.0 LITRE TURBO) ENGINE have the same 2 check valves or is this just on the N52 Engines??? ty
Ill check mine hope there located the same in my E60 520d m47tud2 . Yesterday cleaned thé map sensor . Changed thé oil 5w30 febi bilstein long life plus . Oil filter and pollen filters . Now it got to change diesel filter ,egr thermostat ,glowplug control unit, clean thé vanos solenoid and the check valves. Did i missed something ? ;-)
Damn forgot the pcv valve ;-) And i got a dpf code so ill have to remove and clean it .... But the car says there no problem... Weird huh. Exhaust gas back pressure is like 33 when idle ... Any help am still new at this George... Thanks mate
@@GeorgeAusters any tips why the dpf wont allow forced regeneration . I think it's thé egr thermo that is Broken the coolant temperature wont go above 70 c°
@George Auster Hi George, would you know how many check control valves are there on your BMW 760Li? and what's the torque spec (unless it's the same torque as this engine)?
@@ulf5738 agreed. I got them out from the top but I think I put them in through the wheel well :P Hard to put them in when the engine is slightly tilted and no view from above.
If you were supposed to tighten the valves to 15 Nm, you overdid them by clicking the torque wrench additional times. Grab the wrench by the designated area, tighten the valve and at first click you've reached the set torque. Additional clicks are unnecessary as the torque is now more than what it was set. Otherwise good video.
And that causes what exactly? Did you actually notice any Improvements at all? Not being offensive here, just kinda curious. That's like telling people to clean their Rooms because otherwise they get dirty.
I think the main purpose is preventative maintenance. Granted your engine might not have any issues, but on a car that has 100k miles+ its good practice to remove, clean or replace items like this as they can cause all sorts of issues such as rough idle/running, poor mpg, slow/bad start, lack in performance, rattling/knocking noises etc.
3 years later man is still liking comments, what a legend, batteling p0012 code, changed everything, those filters are the last hope! Rpms jump to 1200 after every start up, hopefully it works, much love from Cali
Did it work please help I don't want to go to dealership 😢
Hi George, I am an ex vehicle mechanic, I was on the spanners for 32 years before i moved over to vehicle collision estimating, 3 weeks ago i bought an E86 with the N52 3.0 engine, I was looking at Datsun 240/260Z S30's for stupid ££ and suddenly realized the E86 is the 2000's equivalent so i had to get one being like ££ cheaper and they don't fall apart with rust issues! It is my first BMW at 61 years old!! I've been out of car mechanics for a long time but the basics never change, I just need updating! Your content on repairing the N52 is top notch mate, I've saved all your videos for the jobs i have to do on my Z4 Coupe as you are very methodical and precise and will save me a bit of head scratching! I'm obviously subbed to your channel and you come across so much better and knowledgeable than other so called BMW 'Expert's' on CZcams IMO. 👌
Appreciate it mate!
@@GeorgeAusters I appreciate you getting back George, Keep up the good BMW content Fella! 👍
Just a heads up for any bmw e83 owners. After removing the wheel well trim I found myself staring at more metal under it. No opening to access the valves after lifting the car and removing everything. Ended up replacing them through the top with a handy short swivel extension with a T40 3/8 drive
just got done replacing my two vans and engine no power when starting up revs up by itslf and guess what!!!!! I am going to do these tonight!!!!! hopefully this will cure my disease...
Thanks, George!!!!! Much respect dude!!! you are my legend!!!!
Thank you very much, nice job! Today I’ve cleaned my N52 engine, 100% solved vanos problem and rough idle
Glad to hear!
So many people do not know about these, and they buy intake and exhaust solenoids, and it does not solve the problem. I agree this is excellent video.
Yes, people replace the Illinois all the time and never check these check valves and still get VANOS codes. Thank you for this video. This video should be posted for more than a solenoid replacement video.
Omg thank you so soooo much.
I cleaned my Check valves today and my Car runs so much better now.
Thank you for your work and that you share it with us
A good video as always! I did this 3 years ago on my n52 and afterwards my vanos performed better.
Thanks Ulf! Glad to hear.
Just bought a 07 n51 e92 with 100k and it’s been neglected and sat for a while. I’ve dealt with various issues on this car but the one issue that was driving me insane was a pretty major rough idle changed both vanos’s, did a engine flush, changed spark plugs, ignition coils, intake filter, and a shit ton of other things. but then it came down to the check filters and they were so dirty I couldn’t believe it like 20 times worse then in this video. after cleaning them the idles 100 times smoother, it’s still slightly there but I think this car needs to be driven and flushed more. For anyone having trouble on a n51 take out the stupid emission friendly intake and loosen up the coolant reserve. then take out the tire, wheel well etc. it’s a bit of a pain and I had to switch constantly between short and long extensions and use my hands once it was lose but you’ll get it eventually.
Nice content. Not many CZcamsrs covering the N52.
Thanks Aaron, one of the reasons I bought this engine!
I plan over overhauling the entire engine for youtube👍🏻
Thanks for detailed video mate! I have experienced that these little valves can make a huge difference! I have used to clean them each time when doing oil change. Anyway now I have decided to change them for OEM ones, what was interesting that old ones (also OEM) dont click if you shake it but the new ones do click
What’s the actual part called? Or part number?
Man that was a big bird that nailed ur fender! Thanks for the vid!
Great video man but I must say I didn't see you shaking those check valves to see if the inside mechanism is free maybe next time you make sure you free the inside mechanism by cleaning and taping on them 😃
I'm gonna do it tomorrow for a customer hope it solves the rough idle....thanks great content 👊
It’s funny that shops go to utube for tips😂 that’s why we all work on cars ourselves
@@andwhat390you got to do research’s no matter what or how
Just done this on my 175thou 130i. Had a bit of a rough idle at cold start. Despite them looking pretty clean, the first start afterwards was completely stable.
It can be done from above in about 15 minutes without removing anything once you have them located. I used a 3/8 T40 on a 120mm extension bar. Absolutely no need to go removing wheels and arch liners in my opinion.
Fair enough.. I wouldn’t have been able to show the process without removing the wheel arch liner though… No space to get a camera in👍🏻
@@GeorgeAusters If I hadn't watched your video first to see where they were then I wouldn't either! Was very helpful, even if I didn't use the same method. Keep up the good work.
Bullshit
There's no way without removing stuff that you can get to those this dude's a b**********
Good video, for those with N53 it’s the same setup just becareful with front wheel liner when taking it out and You’ll need a pretty long extension.
Two extensions and tape them together so they don’t come apart worked for me on my N52 engine
@@thomasshepard6030 that’s the old school trick, I just used a extension the length of my arm haha
I just done mine George but used an inspection mirror and head torch to do the fiddly bit so didn't he to remove inner wheel arch, removing the electric cables a good idea.
You can get to them after taking the plastic cover off and using a mirror on a stick and the torx on a swivel head 1/4” drive ratchet with a short extension clean them with Castrol Super Clean after carefully taking off or covering the o rings with Teflon grease or Teflon tape, and a few wraps of electrical tape, especially if using brake parts cleaner, electrical parts cleaner (doesn’t really clean anything) or Jet Spray gum-out carburetor cleaner.Naptha works well, (Charcoal lighter)
Yes you can but I wouldnt be able to get a camera in to show you.
I just did it this morning, its quite clogged and dirty, after a good clean up with carb cleaner. Install it and take a short drive and I notice acceleration improve at lower rpm.
Glad to hear!
How many miles had your car when you cleaned the valves?
@@hanynowsky 164k miles
Today done cleaning venos check value … great info.. thanks
Thanks for the vid George, just done mine this morning
Nice one Colin!
Thank you! Hoping this will be my last ditch effort for a smooth idle!!! Again Thanks!!!!
Good luck!
gonna do this today... going to try and get them thru the top, expecting to see some nasty valves. I've cleaned the solenoids a couple times and experience much better running afterward.
can anyone explain to me how these check valves work? Where is the oil flowing to? (and where is it not allowed to flow back towards?)
Thanks for the great Video. It really helped me finding those valves although mine were pretty clean.
I tried to get at these valves on my 2008 528i, but I couldn't get a good angle on them because of body panels. I was able to get the torx on one of them at an angle, but not the other. I was afraid that if I did manage to get one off, replacing it would be risky, it could fall down be be difficult to recover.
Hi George, great video again. Very good idear to do a video about this fogoten filters.It seems that the next work will be your front break disc, isn't it?
Currently doing the brakes🤫
Thanks for detailed video mate, nice job! Helps me a lot.
Thanks!
Hey do u know which code the car threw at u when it was idling rough. Was it a P0012 Code?
What size BMW security torque to remove the check valve itself?
Hi, I watch this video I clean the vanos check Valvs but the probelem is now the car don’t start again, says that the problem is control starter motor clamp 50 I don’t know what to do thanks
Okay I’m removing both arch liners and cleaning that crap out !!
thnx man!
Great video. Thanks
You are welcome!
I’d just replace them, seeing how it’s so hard to get to them in the first place. They are not that expensive.
Good.job
WHAT IF ONE OF THEM HAD ALOTTTT/FULL OF METAL SHAVINGS AND THE OTHER HAD NONE AT ALL??? AND METAL WHEN I CHANGED OIL
Great video, has anyone got a link to buy new vanos check valve?
What size bit did your use?
THNXS!
You’re welcome brother!
Could this cause code 2a99 on the n52 ?
Good vid Mate. Thank you.
Cheers mate
Does the m54b22 have this non return valves?
What size is the socket you need to remove them please?
These can cause a missfire too?
Anyone know the part number ? Or actual name of the part? Rang up bmw and the clown behind the desk had no clue. N52
Do you remmember size of socket T30, T40 ??? Thanks
7:25 just a friendly tip - with that many extensions you are losing torque. You'd be losing torque on a single extension depending on the lenght but if you combine multiple then if you set the 15 Nm on the torque wrench then you may end up with let's say 12Nm on the end with that setup. Thermal expansion along with the thinck O ring probably help to keep everything locked in place and sealed but should you ever notice minor oil leaks around your engine block in that area (or the floor where you park) this may be the cause later... alongside with many other sources of course, like the oil pressure switch and what not :D
A good idea to make sure everything is allright is to clean the area with brake cleaner thoroughly once you're done and check back on that spot later. 1st check after a week or two to see immediate issues right away but the 2nd check might be a few months and decent kilometers so you have a good running history to compare with. If you're good then leave it and don't go fixing things that aren't broken. Even it may have like 13,68427 Nm of torque instead of 15 Nm but if it works don't disturb the peace :D
Again, no hate, just a friendly tip. Happy driving :)
False
thank u for the excellent video i didnt take the fender guard off are you using a swivel and what type 1/4 innch or 3/8th drive?
????what kind of tool u use..mine wont come out i cant reach them u use a 1/4 inch or 3/8ths my 3/8th with torx 40 wont fit in there i have an E90
What's the symptoms when vanos filter is dirty??
rough idle, loss of power...
Can someone pls. tell me if the n42b20a has this check valves too???
Can i use brake cleaner for this?
Yes
i've just changed the vanos solenoids and i still get error code 2A82 when i push hard the gas pedal, at high speeds the error comes back.. what's wrong with it ?
Okay, so most of the times when u get missfire at higher rpms it’s vanos solenoids or camshaft sensor
2A82 refers to DME vanos on the intake
Bro, both of the non return valves are accessible from the top of the engine without removing anything.
Are they both the exact same part? I want to order new ones. Great video
Yes
@@GeorgeAusters thanks
just use long L shape Hex key 40 or RIBE m6 and reach them from the top of engine, its not very hard
Mean T40?, thanks bro
I open the wheel but do not have size
@@trumpxitv7116 you can use ordinary torx 40 to loose them, be sure to not drop them
@@pietropietros216 many thanks bro, let me try again
Done, T40, thanks bro
For the filters, is one for the exhaust and one for the intake or they aren’t designated to a certain vanos ?
Correct, one for each
This is today’s job after cleaning the solenoids 😁
Nice
Thanks man
Can someone please help,
I tried removing the check valve and it unscrewed all the way out but it's not popping out. It keeps on spinning at the end. I have no way to grab it and pull it out. I believe the compressed O-ring is still holding it in. The engine is N52. Has anyone got any ideas?
Put something stick on the torx head or us a slim piece of wood
Start the engine, oil pressure will make them pop out....and do a huge mess :)
Friendly reminder to ALWAYS use OEM parts for Vanos and return valves! Spend more and save you many headaches!
Does the 2015 X1 have these filters also?
On petrols yes
I have N52, P0012 error code. I installed 2 new cam sensors, 2 new vanos solenoids, new non return solenoids valves, new oil change with new oil cap, and still have the code with bad idle the first 5 seconds when I start the car. Any input?
Did you watch my rough idle video?
You're looking at Intake VANOS unit failure or Timing chain tensioner failure.
hello, my n52 is like this, did you discover the problem?
Hi Great video Sir, and explanation , I have a question::: does the 2013 x5 N55 (3.0 LITRE TURBO) ENGINE have the same 2 check valves or is this just on the N52 Engines??? ty
You will likely have 2 the same
@@GeorgeAusters ty!for response
Might sound silly but did you replace the o-ring? I plan on doing it on my n51 with 145k miles.
Nope
Is this something that requires draining the oil first? Or do the valves not leak that much?
No need to drain oil
10/10
Doesn't start that well does it ? starter motor ?
I was thinking that but have been told it's normal on this engine
@@GeorgeAusters My 130i pre facelift starts straight away first time so does my friends so not normal in my experience.
Noted thanks Roger. I didn’t think it was normal myself and intended to swap it out so I guess I have been badly informed.
Another job for the list👍🏻
@@GeorgeAusters I thught it was a bit slow or sluggish 's if battery and vanos solenoids OK think it could be the starter motor
Ill check mine hope there located the same in my E60 520d m47tud2 . Yesterday cleaned thé map sensor . Changed thé oil 5w30 febi bilstein long life plus . Oil filter and pollen filters . Now it got to change diesel filter ,egr thermostat ,glowplug control unit, clean thé vanos solenoid and the check valves. Did i missed something ? ;-)
Damn forgot the pcv valve ;-)
And i got a dpf code so ill have to remove and clean it .... But the car says there no problem... Weird huh. Exhaust gas back pressure is like 33 when idle ... Any help am still new at this George... Thanks mate
Diesels don’t have Vanos solenoids 👍🏻
@@GeorgeAusters thanks George didnt Know that
@@GeorgeAusters any tips why the dpf wont allow forced regeneration . I think it's thé egr thermo that is Broken the coolant temperature wont go above 70 c°
You could pass for Carl Froch's lil bro
Do diesels have these?
Diesels have turbos so no need for Vanos 😉
@George Auster Hi George, would you know how many check control valves are there on your BMW 760Li? and what's the torque spec (unless it's the same torque as this engine)?
6 in total on the 760li.. Torque spec should be about the same
@@GeorgeAusters Thank you so much kind sir!
Which one is exhaust
Haven’t a clue, just clean or change both👍🏻
are these 2 both the same?great video
Yes
Nice good to, know....👍👏
Welcome 🙏🏼
I would have checked for leaks before replacing wheel arch!
Realistically they shouldn’t leak if torqued down as they have a nitrile gasket on them
Did you notice a difference?
👍🏼
🙌🏼
Looks like a dinosaur shit in your car. Good video.
lol!
Is it possible do it up from the engime bay ?
BimmetN53
yes, but it is hard to see what you are doing
Yes but much easier from the wheel arch as you can't get your head down to see
Yes I did it from top but you really don’t save much time. You’ll be cursing 🙂
@@ulf5738 agreed. I got them out from the top but I think I put them in through the wheel well :P Hard to put them in when the engine is slightly tilted and no view from above.
Wasn’t too bad to do from the top but very little space to work with. A very short swivel extension worked well for me
First remove the bird crap. 😂
😂
If you were supposed to tighten the valves to 15 Nm, you overdid them by clicking the torque wrench additional times. Grab the wrench by the designated area, tighten the valve and at first click you've reached the set torque. Additional clicks are unnecessary as the torque is now more than what it was set. Otherwise good video.
Clicking it more times does not increase the torque unless you’re increasing the rotation
The first thing you should have done was get that big splat of bird shit off the car.
Makes a Video WHY you should clean them. Doesn't tell you why you should clean them. Dude wtf there's 10 different Tutorials on these already.
Did you watch the video? You should clean them because they can get very blocked up
And that causes what exactly? Did you actually notice any Improvements at all? Not being offensive here, just kinda curious. That's like telling people to clean their Rooms because otherwise they get dirty.
This can cause your typical rough running Symptoms and stop the valve timing advancing properly
I think the main purpose is preventative maintenance. Granted your engine might not have any issues, but on a car that has 100k miles+ its good practice to remove, clean or replace items like this as they can cause all sorts of issues such as rough idle/running, poor mpg, slow/bad start, lack in performance, rattling/knocking noises etc.
Spot on Aaron👍🏻