Boost converters, fuse block, wrong connectors, first test. How everything comes together.
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- Äas pĆidĂĄn 7. 05. 2024
- I'm making good progress in the design and assembly of the network cabinet. The two boost converters are being connected to the fuse block, I mounted a 120mm fan inside the cabinet and installed an air filter at the front of the cabinet.
It is almost time for a first test... if there wouldn't be a samll issue with the round connectors.
Boost converters 12V to 24/36/48V and up to 20A:
off-grid-garage.com/dc-dc-con...
Fuse Block to distribute 12V circuits:
off-grid-garage.com/battery-a...
Split loom to keep your cables tidy and organised:
off-grid-garage.com/electric-...
Lug crimper (this crimper is really good!)
off-grid-garage.com/tools/
POE Network Switch. Just in case you need one...
off-grid-garage.com/accessories/
Wavelink Outdoor access point, 2.4 and 5GHz, really long range:
off-grid-garage.com/accessories/
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Started with little knowledge about solar. Thanks to you, I'm making loads of progress. Love your videos.
I'm not a new subscriber but I leave a comment anyway. đ
Sometimes I dream of the times when you built Battery 1.0. That encouraged me to do it as well.
Now I've got 4 DIY batteries connected to my system, and it started with your videos.
So thank you for taking us with you.đ
Thank a slot for your kind feedback and being around for such a long time. That is fantastic.
The old box of plugs saves the day again,have a great day Mr.Andy
Yes, it did. Sitting here for years and growing junk! Wait, it's not junk... you just have to remember you have it.
Love this fuse block with LED indicator
Yeah, me too. It's also easy to disconnect one single string if needed. Better than having a fixed busbar.
In this video and the last about this cabinet you refer to the voltage converters as "buck" converters. Buck converters drop the voltage. The proper term is "boost" converters as these increase the voltage.
Just heard you refer to them as boost converters.
If you want to be that precise, it must actually be buck-boost converter. Both types of converters use buck technology, right?
Thank your for this video! ... just for info ... I am running my Intel NUC direct on the 12V DC power in my camping trailer (12V 200 AH LiFePo4 battery with some PV-modules tilted on the roof) without any problems. Also the mini-pc from by boss for home-office usage is running directly on 12V DC (of course, the delivered power supply is 19V) ... all the best wishes to both of you, greetings from Hamburg/Germany, Dietmar, DL4HAO :)
Soldering pro tip: the small and cheap TS100 soldering iron (and clones like from pine) are awesome.
Small, 60W, heater in the tip = fast heating, digital temperature controlled even soldering XT90s is a breeze.
@9:55 Ah that's what an Australian drill looks like! đ
When I use DC to DC converts, I use Anderson Plugs and I clock them differently so 12 can't plug into 24 (example) ...
Yes, good idea.
So nice to watch you Andy after a long time. I was busy these days.
Yeah, me too... kind off... welcome back!
Me too, building a little home for the last year, and bought a small business.
Felt the lack of Andy, but couldn't put aside approximately 45 minutes. Nice to have time again, for now.
Andy, great build as always and glad to see that you are using a ventilated PoE switch. I had issues mounting a non-vented switch and it filled up with condensation and failed. Lesson learned but no damage.
Andy I used one of those fuse boxes in my RV - they are good but don't go over 10amps per line as they get hot - I think they have used steel instead of brass or copper
Hmmm, I have one in the top shelf above the batteries and have it running for over two years now with several circuits connected. Never had an issues. Maybe my load is not as high as in your RV...
Fun fact: POE is 42-57v. Ie what your battery produces and is always isolated.
But a 1 to 1 isolated dc/dc system if you want would make what youâre doing drastically more efficient since your isolated and then down to 12v then boosting 4x.
Also with 802.3bt you get 100w so easy to power the nuc from Poe
Good day Good Sir,
Bless you yet again... Hehe
Hey Andy, use magnets instead of screws to hold filter in.
That's too late now.
@@OffGridGarageAustraliaYou can always remove the screws and replace with magnets. You know the ones with holes in it and screw them down just to make sure they don't move.
Andy I can't find the SPAT under tools? LOLZ! Keep up the great videos
SPAT is on the homepage! Too important to hide it elsewheređ
Always pays keepin that box of old power supplies!
Are those fuse blocks also capable of handling 48V?
If not, what would you suggest to already protect the circuit on the 48V source side?
They are rated for 12V and 24V only. There is no real fuse block for 48V out there (yet).
You could use a Midi fuse box which is rated for 48V. They are a bit more pricy though.
s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DmSHQ1N
@@OffGridGarageAustralia Thanks a lot for the link! In the title it says 48V, but further down in the specs, they state: "Maximum voltage: 12V [and up to 15V]"
Too bad, those cheap asian sellers don't bother giving reliable info on their stuff...
But I haven't looked into those midi-fuses yet, there might be some more potential there for finding the right fuse box.
Do you have no (analog) protection at all on your 48V primary side? How does it get handled in your installation if e.g. one of the buck converters shorts out on the primary side?
@@leumel900 I wouldn't be to bothered with the 48V specification as long as the fuse is rated for that voltage.
I've published another video today where I explained the design behind the build. Basically, the supply for this fuse box comes from an isolated 48V/12V converter which is short protected with 20A. There cannot be more than 20A in any case in the system.
How is the converter protected with 20A? Internally or externally? If internally, I personally don't really want to trust these cheap asian converters and would like some fail-safe in line. If externally, how?
3:51 - to get such part just take a photo of the profile, measute the profil width and hight and then import the picture to get build the part on top of that picture of the profile once you have adjusted to the right scale / width and hight. Quite simple.
Thanks!
Thank you very much for your support!
i got a laugh out miss piggy the Hot Blower hahahahaha
I thought that thing was vibrating from the fan inside.
@@repairman2be250 It does vibrate a little bit if this is of interest for anyone.
Okay Iâm fairly new to this stuff but Iâve been watching your channel and have decided to get some advice. Iâm running a 96 ah LiFePo4 battery pack for car audio. I found this bsm Peak 1500A Car Start up 12V 24V 460A BMS 4S 3S 7S 8S Lipo Lifepo4 Battery protection Board and was curious as to how good or bad this would perform with my current setup. I donât plan on deleting my lead battery just for the safety feature of when the bms cuts power to the battery pack in the back in turn will allow the lead battery to absorb the spare energy instead of trashing the diodes in the alternator. My question being will this bms work well for this application? I plan on only running about 5000watts from the 96ah pack for audio but I wanted a big enough bms to avoid it shutting down the cell. If you need more details please ask. The cells used are headway red 3.2 volt. Edit 48 of the headway LiFePo4 cells another edit 4s configuration
One more edit to leave cell specs, safe over sorry rule
Nominal Voltage: 3.2V
Chemistry: LiFePO4
Full Charge Voltage: 3.65V
Full Discharge Voltage: 2.5V
Capacity: 8 Ah
Max Continuous Charge: 80 A
Max Continuous Discharge: 120 A
Hi Andy. What would cause 2 JK bms that were working perfectly to suddenly go bonkers with one completely unresponsive and the other only charging only to 60%? Both are 2ba20s20p.
B2A20S20P you mean... have they done that at the same time? I can only imagine a voltage or current surge causing that.
Have you powered them completely off for while and reconnect them?
All right yeah using external antenna makes more sense, I was thinking double faraday cage was a bad idea
Well, we will see once this is all mounted and the cabinet is fully closed. As I said, I may have to mount the Wifi AP on the outside of this cabinet for better Wifi coverage.
đđđ
You can get those round connectors with screw terminals for easier use
Any video to compare high voltage and low voltage batteries?
Hey Andy! After seeing your crypto miners, I got a few of my own that I'm running off my excess(?) solar. Now I have good reason to add more panels. I'm getting 550W Bifacial panels. More, panels, more power! SPAT calibrations incoming!
Nice! What are you doing with the heat and noise though? I found it unbearable having only one miner running.
@@OffGridGarageAustralia Goldshell Mini Doge II + III. Very quiet and operate from 12-15Vdc, so I'm going to run them directly off the LFP battery, without a PSU so it's more efficient, and charge from the sun.
ââââââââ@@OffGridGarageAustralia
I have BraiinsOS running on the miners. This OS raises the efficency and can be set to a dedicated powerconsumption.
Theres a HA Integration for BraiinsOS. HA runs my miners between 1/2 and 3/4 of maximum power, or switches them off, depending on battery SOC, solar power and sunforecast.
On 1/2 power the fans run near idle and on 3/4 just slightly faster on an acceptable noise level.
The heat warms my cellar ceiling, witch is made of hollow blocks. This acts as a kind of floorheating for our apartment. Second stage it is sucked by a heatpump to heat up the warm water., or at least just blown out to the atmosphere.
đ
Those round connectors are usually referred to as barrel connectors
Man, if you google them, they have all kind of names, coaxial connectors, round connectors, cylindrical connectors, circular connectors, you name it...
Andy, has anything electronic or electrical ever left your garage? You would make a good hoarder or ham radio operator (equivalent) đ
I'm constantly turning over equipment and devices. Thankfully, I have only limited storage capacity in the garage. Otherwise...đ
Hey Andy could you possibly do a video on how you charge your batteries from the grid Iâve been curious how you do that with inverters in series. I thought about adding a parallel multiplus but cabling length seams to have to be very precise so Iâve tossed around the idea like your setup.
He doesn't, it's off grid, clues in the name. He does have some AC connected solar on the pool pump circuit, which does charge the batteries.
Channel name was made when he was still on the grid so moot point. Maybe I should clarify my question in simple terms how could you charge with series connected inverters? I know heâs mentioned trying not charging off the grid in winter so wasnât sure if he has tried before, or maybe a new test for him to see how it would work.
@@Justin-rr3bf Not a moot point, his solar installation on the garage has always been off grid as he didn't want to risk the government incentive payments he gets for installing solar on the main house. IIRC the Phoenix is installed as if it's a generator, there is a video that explains it.
Good seeing 86.1K. Every thing is on the webpage. Plug and play then redo. 8000 ? Wow.
I've got the '6' here...
Hey Andy, there is still some space left at the fence for more pv panels đ
Yes, very limited sun over there. I thought about it a few times though.
86.1k subs, need to update tally signs on wall! ;)
Yes!
I have a Wavlink and I am disappointed with the distance it can reachđą
Oh boy Andy, @ minute 10:50 I see fuses. Some YT'ers did some testing on cheap China Man made fuses and some did not blow till 2 - 3 times the Amps where put through. You might want to test the ones your are going to use.
It does not matter as I don't use these fuses as fuses. They are more disconnection points.
@@OffGridGarageAustraliaFair enough. Just remember not to use them in your Tesla.
đžđžđž
đ„
the blue crimp terminals you made are STILL upside down. The 2 dots should be at the ring end
2 dots at the end... 2 dots at the end.. I try to remember....
Just a quick observation. Having the 48v devices and 12 v devices, in close proximity, and using the same co axial power plugs for both - imagine you have had a session of calibrating too many spats........ if you accidentally supply 12v to the 48v device - no big deal but......... pumping 48v into one of your 12 volt devices is going to hurt! - Would you not do better placint the 12v devices further away from the converters and extend the 12v cable? that way no accidents can happen?
I never drink and driveđ
But yes, that could potentially happen. They are now labeelled though which helps a bit. Same as people connect their batteries the wrong way and turn on the circuit breaker. How do I know? Well, I'm reading all the emails I'm gettingđ
Gotta update that Sub number.. it's 86k now! đ
Yes!
Hello Andy
Iâm new to your channel and love your content. I recently purchased a JK smart active balance 1A 150A bms and I fried it when I plugged the most positive lead. Can you do a video on how to properly wire it in step by step so I donât fry the second bms very expensive mistake. Thank you
Hello and welcome to the channel!
I have made quite a few videos and showed how to connect BMS in general but also the JK BMS. Please always follow the manufacturer instructions and double check all balance cables are in the right order.
Search on my channel for the JK BMS and you will find the videos.
I didnât get any instructions with bms. On line seems to be some pictures. The black wires are the temp wires but the first red of which there are five on the first plug is negative according to the pics.
Andy, just a question.
Do you really trust the Chinese fuses?
Had many that came with the fuse box you mounted.
Either they fell apart if I pull them from the box, or the 5A I tested widthstand over 15A!
Cheers
Marc
I've had the same thing happen with 2A non-name Chinese fuses. I've also seen fuse-holders melt just from the heat of the fuse (not the type of "disconnect" I was looking for!). But I also have gotten kits that where the fuses work quite well. So these days I always test a few from the kit to make sure they actually work before trusting the kit.
And for anything serious I use 10x38 ceramic fuses and DIN rail mounted fuse holders
What fuses are you talking about? From the fuse box?
What is the fuse for, you must ask!? The fuse will protect the cables of your circuit. The power supply for this whole fuse box is coming from the battery shelf and a Victron Orion 48V/12V, 20A DC-DC isolated buck converter.
So, worst case here is, none of the fuses work and we have a short circuit of 20A, right?
@@OffGridGarageAustralia I have the most trouble with generic (i.e. random amazon-purchased) auto blade fuses not working as advertised. Meaning, you take a 2A fuse, put 10A into it... and it doesn't blow. For example.
Glass fuses tend to be a whole lot more reliable, but fuse holders for glass fuses often aren't.... they're often made of low-temperature plastic instead of high-temperature plastic and the housing of the fuse-holder winds up melting with anything near the rated current going through the fuse (i.e. fuse isn't supposed to blow, but the problem then becomes the fuse holder and not the fuse). I've had glass fuse holders melt on me multiple times.
This didn't used to be the case, but these days even well-known brands seem to be messing up in their race to the bottom.
Finding reliable low-amperage fuses has gotten difficult. The best bet seems to be 10x38mm ceramic "solar" fuses such as the type you often find in combiner boxes. There are more options for fuse holders for 10x38's. The Baomain DIN-rail mounted fuse holders seem to be decently reliable, I've tested those with continuous amperages up to their ratings without anything melting on me. 10x38mm ceramic fuses are the only low-amperage fuses I trust these days.
-Matt
@@OffGridGarageAustralia Andy might it be time for you to do a video explaining and showing your viewers, that all of the low voltage standard blade fuses are 'half' rated, as it's NOT common knowledge, and folks are getting confused when they find that - say a 10A fuse does NOT blow immediately with 11A across it, and that it can take many seconds to blow, and up to 20A for an instant blow?
â@@OffGridGarageAustralia Yes the fuse box. Got the same type in the past with additional fuses but I could throw all of them away. The box itself is good stuff fĂŒr this low (
about members video... o thought you only choose and answer members comments... that went well free content :D
not thinking of a
raspberry Pi for Hone Assistant?
Gesundheit! đđ
Andy you need a scanner for your 3d printing projects.
What scanner would that be?đ
Like# 7
đ„got a silver, Paul.
2:17 Gesundheit
It's a work allergy!
Moin đđđ
Moin Andi!
Actually... I don't think there is anything in that cabinet that even needs an outside fan in the first place. The boost converters don't due to the way they are mounted. The POE+ switch certainly doesn't (POE+ switches don't have any power regulators in them beyond powering the ethernet chipset). The little mini-computer has its own fan. Convection would be just fine if you unplug the holes.
If you really want the fan, just run it slowly and leave it going 24x7. Easiest solution. The options are: (1) Get a fan "slow down" cable, or (2) DIY a fan "slow-down" cable... all they do is put a 100ohm 1/2W or 1W resistor inline with the power to the fan, or (3) Use a 24VDC fan but power it with 12VDC, it will run a lot slower and be completely silent. Don't bother with a PWM, that's complete overkill. And best to use low-power-spec'd fans in the first place (0.2A at rated voltage or lower) since the box doesn't really need much or any airflow anyway. You can make the fan run 24x7 and be completely silent.
-Matt
Exactly!
The PWM controller I mentioned will spin the fan on 20% all the time, I believe. And in summer time it may drive it faster if necessary.
I tried with a 60Ohm, 5W resistor in series with the fan, but that seemed too wasteful.
@@OffGridGarageAustralia The PWM controllers won't be much better and can actually cause fan startup problems (they are not typically "smart" PWM fan controllers for the most part) (see note 1). You won't save much, if any, power. The main thing is to purchase fans with the following qualities:
* Large (e.g. 140mm x 140mm or larger)
* Low amperage specification, e.g. 0.2A or lower
Threes are more important. They provide you with oxygen. You could all ways put your solar panels in stilts as a temporary condition.
Yes, this is now a procedure in winter to setup these additional panels at the fence. We will build more permanent solar though...
11:07 Gsondheit !!!
Danke, Juergen!
đ©”đđ
Hello đââïž
Even new subscribers should be able to watch older videos đžđžđž
Yes, they could but apparently sending emails is easierđ
Gesundheit.
Danke.
Great case project, but as your subscribed number goes up so does the minutes of annoying CZcams commercials goes up.
I do believe you are making it way too complicated by (only) using the side-panels, but it is a choice.
If you left all the holes open, you would not need a ventilator for cooling IMHO.
By properly placing (granted, horizontally) the components in the "correct" order, hottest on top shelf, cooler ones on the lower/bottom, natural convection could be sufficient. I know from personal experiences as I build all my kit both for work and home in such boxes. Using environmental monitors (suggestion for a future project for you perhaps?) I measure, on average 24.3 degrees Centigrade. Yes, with network-switches, Access Point and sometimes a NAS, micro-computers and occasional NUCs. Granted, in the winter I do not need heating in the room, it is quite comfortable....
BTW, those connectors are often called barrel-connectors and indeed come in almost countless shapes and sizes.
As for your AP, next to mounting it on top of your network cabinet, you could opt for:
- getting the proper antenne-connectors (MCX?) and piece of coax, plus a chassis-connector for the antennes themselves, mount only the antennas to the outside of the cabinet. (you could also opt for complete kits that come with the whole cable, chassis-mount and antennes that sometimes give a bit more dBi's, thus some extra range.
- mount the access point on one of the side-panels (back-plane) in such a way that you drill only holes to stick the antennes thru those holes to the outside. (if you are concerned about dust, you can use grommets.
Yes, if you leave the antennes inside the network cabinet, there will be faraday effects (read: reduced range) but also affects due to the antennes being too close to the other equipment that radiate some radio frequencies themselves as they are switching, that can influence the quality of your wifi signal. Remember, wifi is only mW of signal, it does not take much to block or distort the signals.
Heya, bilding this network cabinet needs some work but wen it's done it will work nicely and for a long time
Same with the battery shelf. So many people were concerned and had issues with it. Until it was done and working. Then, everyone was impressed. Maybe different here with such a cabinet as this is not something many people would need.
Why do you keep calling the Boost Converters "Buck Converters"? There is quite a difference.
I cut down a tree that was blocking our morning sun, because electricity is more important than a plant.
The best solar optimizers are made by Stihl, Husqvarna etc. đ
I don't need solar optimizers. all of my bi-facial panels are in the sun with no shading. and they routinely out perform the 405 watt rating, even in the winter.
@@stevenfrazier8939
These brands are famous chainsaw manufactors - i was kidding... đ
Solar Power is an environmental benefit. So no concerns about a tree đČđ
Right, sorry I did not read your post close enough. That is a good point and funny.
Your website has SMlight SLZB-06(M) which says made in the Ukraine, which is not correct its just Ukraine no "the" in it unlike the United Kingdom a collection of kingdoms or states - we dont say the Australia or the Indonesia; though its easy to fall into "the Ukraine" trap so understandable! Otherwise thanks about wavelink spent a lot of time fussing about what sort of AP for out on the property. Interesting price difference between Amazon and Aliexpress (i guess its delivery time and support on returns as to the larger margin on the amazon one).
Andy, like i see very often, the direction of airflow in your cabinet is wrong - no offense, 90% of the so called professionals do it wrong as well...
If you want to keep dust out, it doesn't help to close all the gaps. You have to create an overpreasure by blowing into to cabinet through a filter.
Cry Babies, members or not.. I am not financially acquired mass member to buy.
That's fine. Leaving a comment here helps as well, so thank you.
Well you got me with your 4d-chess move of "accidentally" playing a members only video publicly ;) jk....I just joined the members to buy a SPAT per month, just need 179 others and you can have a six-pack a day to keep the doctor (running) away Cheers for the content mate!
Thanks a lot for joining and you support.
80.000 subscribers and if everyone of them only gives 10c per month... I could easily live of that, stop working and make even more videos.
Thanks!
Thank you for your ongoing support, Sree!