Smart Battery Charging Control with Victron DVCC. It actually works!
Vložit
- čas přidán 5. 09. 2024
- You have a small battery which gets too much power? Still on lead acid but a massive solar array connected? Hot battery because of too much current?
We are going to have a closer look at the Victron DVCC (Distributed Voltage and Current Control). It is an option in the Victron Venus OS but how does it actually work, what does it do and how to configure it?
With the new solar upgrade on the garage, I'm constantly having far too high charging currents for my battery banks. I tried restricting the MPPTs or turning on more loads during solar peak time but both is not really an option and needs constant monitoring and adjusting of the system.
Some people have already suggested to turn on DVCC in the Venus OS but I was always under the impression, we would need a smart BMS for that to work.
It seems like, the solution is far easier than I thought. With DVCC we can easily control the charging current without affecting the overall solar performance. Once it is set, forget about it and DVCC will take care of everything. AMAZING!
Please subscribe and join me on my journey of the Off-Grid Garage!
For more information, please check out my website with links to all the batteries, materials, devices and products I have used in my videos: off-grid-garag...
The 'Buy me a Beer🍻'-link is here (on the website, scroll all the way down):
off-grid-garag... Thank you for your support!
You can also click on the Thanks button under the video to support the channel. Thank you, if you have already!
T-Shirts, caps, mugs and more in our merch-shop:
off-grid-garag...
**** These are the batteries you are looking for ****
🔋➡EVE LF280/304 LiFePO4 cells 3.2V/280+304Ah: off-grid-garag...
🌞➡Solar charge Controllers, Inverters and accessories: off-grid-garag...
🔧➡Tools, Analysers and Testers: off-grid-garag...
📈➡ Battery Tests and Results: off-grid-garag...
🔌➡Batteries, charger and accessories: off-grid-garag...
⚡➡Cables, Inverters and Electronics: off-grid-garag...
Get 5% off when buying Bluetti all-in-one Power Storage Products!
off-grid-garag...
Great "Next Gen" AOLithium Batteries (4000 cycles, Bluetooth, CALB cells)
aolithium.com/...
The Sunfunkit DIY battery. Great product to build your own 12V battery. Use OGGA at checkout to get 6% off. Video Review: • The Sun Fun Kit Experi...
New to AliExpress? Use my referral code below to register and earn US$19 store credit. What a great start! a.aliexpress.c...
Take a live sneak peak at the Off-Grid-Garage in the Victron VRM World (link at top of the page):
off-grid-garag...
My other CZcams channels:
/ offgridgarageaustralia
Please don't leave any nasty words or links in your reply. CZcams will not publish your comment in this case.
Andy, thank you so much for listening to our requests and conducting these tests we didn't have time to conduct ourselves. Amazing content!
Thanks a lot, Ed. There is heaps more too come once we have setup the Seplos batteries and BMS. Lots to test and learn for all of us.
Thank again for your support!
DVCC works very well with CERBO GX cordinating the various solar chargers. I use this to coordinate my 6x SmartSolar 100/50. What is nice is you can get it to read the voltage and current from BMS, much more accurate. But there is still an ongoing issue. Overnight, one or more SmartSolar can randomly go to sleep without waking up. The fix is easy, just need to disable and re-enable the controller. Luckily you can now perform this remotely via VRM. I make it a habit to check via Bluetooth or VRM each morning to ensure all my Victron SmartSolar solars are generating power and not sleeping... I have 2x other 150/100. Haven't yet connected to this setup yet as i use these with 4x 200w folding solar for my RV portable solar set-up. But shall try later to see if this sleeping / not waking up issues extends beyond the 100/50.
What's more impressive is, after all the batteries are fully charged, but only the inverter is utilising power from the solar that Cerbo GX can regulate amongst the 6x SmartSolar controller how much power each controller should generate, just to meet this load, without over charging the battery. It is quite amazing to see how this magically happens via the VRM portal. 😊👍
The key towards Offgrid solar success is tuning your system so that the energy is spread out over multiple peaks and not just a single peak from one controller, which would need to be throttled down via DVCC. Ideally you never want DVCC to kick in and intervene... as this is net loss of solar energy captured. You want to have as many SmartSolar as you can setup, each having a different and non-over lapping peak output coming through. You can strategically place different groups of panels connected to different SmartSolar to achieve this. This way, if you over size your solar and over size your battery, you can easily ride out bad weather and even continue to make good power on rainy and overcast days. 🌧️☔🌞😬💪💪💪
The investment in your victron landscape is paying back itself. Very nice feature.
Learning a lot here .
Yes, and DVCC also ramps down the charging current when SOC reaches more than 90% and stops charging when SOC is 100%. Once every 1-2 months I switch DVCC off for one charge cycle to get the SOC of my BMS in sync again (3.5V/cell). So happy with it.
Well…no kidding. DVCC is muy bueno for those of us with multiple types of chargers and loads. As you have demonstrated, shunts make it even smarter.
My system has 5kW alternator (Wakespeed regulator), 2 Multiplus’s (split phase on ac side but easy to parallel if shorepower isn’t split phase), and dual mppts for 800w (hey, it’s a sailboat, not a roof😎). I will take all the solar I can, then shore power, if available, then the alternator, if engine is on. I’ve only got 21kWh batt storage (25.6v) but air conditioning in summer on a sailboat without a generator is…marriage saving 😇. Next add-on will be wind.
Another great video. Thanks, again.
PS-one SPAT is on the way 🍺
Hi Andy, with Venus OS Large and Node Red you can program controls for the charging and discharging current as you wish. So you just need a temperature sensor in the battery, which communicates to the Victron System and control the current depending on the temperature.
Even cheaper alternative, if you have a lot of solar to spare in summer, you can just program it such that the charge current is lower in summer and higher in winter.
I know, this can be done with Node Red, but no idea where to start and how to program that. Just not enough time to look into all that...
@@OffGridGarageAustralia Andy was that u on the Telegram app who sent me a message saying I won something ??
@@diysolaradventures7894 i doubt it
@@SiriusSolar ok thanks someone posing as u tried to scam me telling me I won something he was messaging me on one of your videos comment sections
@@diysolaradventures7894 Just to be clear I am not off-grid garage. I know he has done giveaways before and I'm not sure what method he uses to contact people but 99.9% chance that the person contacting you was literally a scammer. It's easy to tell though Just look at the person's name and click on their name. If it brings you to their CZcams channel and it is literally the correct channel then it would be the real off-grid garage. But if it brings you to a different channel that might have some stolen videos from the official channel but doesn't have the whole history going clear back then it's a scammer. And if he's giving you some stupid WhatsApp , or telegram or some other messaging system contact then it's definitely a scammer!
I dont have DVCC facility. But I can limit battery charge current/Amp from JK Bms :)
VIDEO IDEA:
Hi Andy, would you consider hooking up your NoArk DC breaker and intentionally shorting a LiFePo4 cell, and testing its capacity afterward and seeing if it gets damaged? Maybe even multiple short/test cycles. Keep up the great informative videos. Cheers.
Don't worry most of us are staying quite cool over in the States, 48 degrees as well but in Fahrenheit! :D ~9 degrees Celsius.
-3C here in New England tonight. Try to keep my batteries warm in the off grid cabin while watching your channel. 😂🥶
@@jimmyg6215 yes that is chilly! Thanks!
Andy,
You can use Node Red (part of Venus OS Large) to create a flow that automagically adjusts the DVCC current based off of a value you set for battery max current. I use this method and have the max battery current set at 0.1C (lead acid) . so now when I add load, Node Red adjusts the DVCC current. if there is excess solar available, the battery only ever receives 0.1C with the excess current available for DC loads.
Yeah, I know this works somehow with Node Red. Never looked into this, no idea how it works. Even all my Venus OS are Large
Node Red is awesome. in summary enables automation. from node red you can read and set the state of dvcc and read battery current and DC loads. all I do is add 0.1C + DC Load Current and use this value as the new DVCC current value. this automation runs every second and now I can charge the battery at max and use the excess power for loads
Great info thanks. I actually bought two Blue Nova RacPower BN52V-100-5.2k DU batteries to integrate with my Victron system to benefit from exactly this DVCC function. Integrating a third party BMS system with Victron can be problematic, but the Blue Nova documentation is very well written and describes setup/wiring to the finest detail. I have the Victron Shunt VE.Can included to measure battery load. This information, combined with the BMS Can info from the batteries is combined in the Cerbo for very accurate control by the Cerbo GX, leaving total peace of mind that the batteries are looked after in a closed loop system. With this setup, DVCC is forced on by the Cerbo.
Many Thanks Andy for this perfect explain of the Victron DVCC feature. I like it too, will use it on my boat with LeadAcid and my Solar Setup..
one point: you have change to Augustiner🤣no Öttinger any more…BR Lars
Andy, I found that the easiest way to keep your batteries cool is to cool them down with a very light breeze across the top but only during the early cool morning hours and off by 9am. The buss bars are actually great heat radiators and pull the heat out excellently! If you cool them this way you, it GREATLY delays the heat buildup during the day. Remember, you don’t want to blow warm air over them when the air gets hot. Just let the stagnant air be around them when you charge/discharge. A very small computer fan is all that’s needed for each bank. If the battery is in an enclosure there needs to be a means for air exchange. My garage got pretty hot last summer luckily it does cool down at night and I have some ventilation to help bring in the night air.
The problem with that is that it will accumulate a lot of dust over time and I would need to have some sort of airflow with also an in/outlet , filters, fans, control electronics and.... maintenance.
Limiting the charging current during these hot days works brilliantly and I could see up to 5 degrees cooler batteries than charging them faster. It also does not stress the batteries as much, so win-win
@@OffGridGarageAustralia
Well, perhaps a little Pelletier thermal electric unit. Trust me, it doesn’t take much to change the core temperature. I actually was in disbelief and thought it was only the surfaces and only the thermistor were being cooled/fooled but I could verify the temperature down the sides of the cells.
@@OffGridGarageAustraliaHumidity can also cause problems, in particular with busbars. I left a busbar in front of an evaporative cooler during the summer, and it corroded rather badly in just 3 or 4 months. I live in a substantially warmer (and less humid climate) and was wanting to see if an evaporative cooler was an option to keep batteries cool. The answer is no, it will cause too much corrosion.
Andy, perfect timing as I just purchased Victron Quattros at a Black Friday sale and along with everything else, can configure my off grid system now..
Andreas, ich danke Dir für den Tipp mit dem Smartshunt auf DC Seite. Vielen Dank, und beste Grüße aus D.
I start balance at 2.50 and 3.65 max on a victron 100v/50amp 280ah lifepo4. I don't have enough input from solar to overheat the battery but even though it never says it's balancing it is. I wish I had your grid. All that free energy
Nice feature, this is why I like Victron, it has 100s of features that are only useful to a few people who never even knew they could benefit from such a feature. Although I do similar by limiting charge voltage, and that way you still get a fast charge early then just slows down and maybe never quite hits 100% - however you get full kick in for AC loads.
And I was so sure that would be the route you went down for these niggles, not the DVCC I knew nothing about. But that helps a solar upgrade for me without a BMS upgrade - 100A BMS on a 900ah system with the inverters bypassing the BMS as they draw more current.
That's an interesting setting. Should come in handy for anyone with a complex setup like yours.
Great video & explanations! It looks like Victron updated the CerboGX manual to include a lot of these details.
Section 11.4. DVCC features for all systems
These features apply to all types of systems when DVCC is enabled; with or without ESS Assistant, with lead-acid or other normal batteries as well as when an intelligent CAN-bus BMS connected battery is installed:...
You now have a system bigger than me. Challenge accepted
Hey there Andy, I have not gone back to binge-watch all your episodes from the beginning(yet), but the advancement of the DVCC is a great benefit but the power of ESS is also huge. I have a small system in my shop set up that is allowing me to feed my excess solar production back into my shop to help provide some of my daily use. At some point, I would love to have an array like yours but can not spend all the extra beer money on panels ya know. My goal is not to feed back to the grid but to be totally self sufficient through most of the year and to also allow me to add air conditioning to my shop.
Heya, nice to see that victron has a hole package that all can communicate to getter
Thanks Andy, I'm slowly learning all about Victron.
Based on your explanation of this DVCC, I do find it a great feature!
Simply love your channel :D
And you are such a great presenter! :)
There is no need for 2 shunts my friend. You need to keep charging and DC loads on 1 side of the shunt, and battery storage on the other side of the shunt. That's it. All the charging equipment have their own internal shunts to transmit data with, anything extra is a DC load. I use the 1000 amp lynx shunt for this usually in my installations. I suggest changing how you wired your installation to how we do it on ships instead of adding a shunt.
If Andy adds a 2nd shunt for dc loads then he can set the charge rate and it won't be affected by dc loads. The system will then allow the solar controllers to generate more power to run the dc load, as it currently does for his ac loads, without subtracting them from the battery charge current.
@@HermitHippy you can do the same thing if the dc loads are on the charging side of the shunt as I have suggested without buying 2 shunts. All you have to do is program your battery's BMS properly so it limits the charging current. No matter how the installation is put in, the BMS for each LiFePO4 should keep it's battery safe, independent of everything else.
Thanks for sharing Andy, Victron really has thought and created a really thorough system!
You have the best system. Very envious. Free power for life. Well done.
Thank you!
I use this all the time to keep the efficiency of the multiplus above 90%. If I turn it off and let it charge at the full 35a (48/3000), it's around 85%, and as I only have 500w of solar, the battery is always charged from the grid.
I only turn if off if my ToU price is really low and not that long, then I don't care about the efficiency :).
Also when using can.bus bms controlled batteries, you can limit the battery voltage to stop charging with dvcc. Beyond this point would be great to have another video about “Using node-red to automatically stop charging when programmed soc is reached and still feeding all dc loads” :)
a never ending project :) und trotzdem lieben wir deinen content :)
I almost spit out my "spat" when you said I have plenty of power I need to waste, I'll use it on the air conditioner.. 🤣 That's a great feeling eh? Awesome!
Yeah, it's a pretty good feeling not to be worried any more. But let's wait for winter...
Like# 6, always during lunch! Did you say you plan to add another shunt to the DC Load? This is super interesting BTW!
Thanks Andy
Dvcc is great, but it could be great if this feature also worked in ESS mode, where feed in excess is activated. Victron do not think you should be able to turn down charge to battery. They just advice to buy a larger battery or do not do over panelling. I do over panelling to harvest enough sun in the darker periods, but this increase max current in a sunny day, which heat up battery. Makes no sense to charge fast in sunny days, you have a lot more hours to charge, so why not decrease current!
Hallo Andy, can you demonstrate the inportend parameters on solar charge controllers for agm battery,'s on 24 volt pleace. Greatings Jean Pierre
I actually used small water air cooler to bring down system temps in the summer days, I recommend you do the same but you need to put it outside it would not work on sticky days though. Better solution is to install 24000btu inverter Ac this will solve all the issues in your garage even 18000btu unit is enough you can use the last 10 amps to run it once temps settle power use will go down significantly.
I tested using an evaporative cooler here in the desert. You very much accelerate corrosion problems.
@@john_in_phoenix the space needs to be open so the air goes in and out without circululating inside and from far away using bernoulli effect.
@@MiranPayman oddly enough,, I know how it works
The DVCC can communicate with with the serial battery driver from Louis. You can limit with shared temperature also from DVCC ;)
yes, and that works really nice ;)
And down under here in east england, its - 4 tonight and im having to use a heated mat inside my battery bank thats stored outside in my workshop!
Nice but, why not automate this with e.q. node-red? Based on the temperature, load rate, dc usage you could set this value automatically.
Thanks Andy Great explanation of the DVCC week 2 with my solar living off gridd in Warwickshire having over specified my panel count off to buy an EV and maybe with the DVCC set up its time for an EV Scag ! finding your knowledge and advise a massive help cheers. Paul
Thanks
Thank you very much. Great support!
Hi Andy, please can you make a video about your DC loads, what they are and how they're connected?
Cheers, great channel, I've watched every video.
Enjoy the sun. It is -7C at my house today and there is 3 inches of snow covering all my panels. ;-) Spring can't get here fast enough.
Half meter snow in couple days here.
Congrats on 50K Subs.
Good to know! I didn't. Goes to show me yet again that I should RTFM...! I wonder, though, about the Orion DC-DC converter which does not have a charge current limit feature IIRC, so it likely would not be affected by this DVCC limitation unfortunately, would it? Or is there some secret feature that is to be revealed?
-4C here... Ruddy English winters
Excellent knowledge share! Your videos are great in helping us put the final touches on our designs. Making me look again look at the value in the more expensive Victron equipment--we'll thought out options! You just need to know what all they CAN do and what it's called- DVCC in thus case, but whose got the time to figure it out and present it in a pre-digested, entertaining way😋 And you Andy do a great job at it-mistakes and all! Keep up the great job and I'll be sending you a 🍺
I have 2 smart shunt for DVCC it doesn't work , I using node-red to take the ( DC load smart shunt + your max charge amps ) and set the max dvcc charge current .
Get an air source heat pump water heater, hot air in, cold air out and hot Water. I use the cold air for air conditioner. Great video, didn't know that limiting feature existed 👍
Thanks for the tips!
I love your videos. Simple, understandable and correct. Thank you so much for your effort!
Always enjoy ur vids Andy, great info & content. Cheers
Hallo evt ein Tipp: victron battery sense 😉
Viel Erfolg und mag es deine Videos anzuschauen Danke dafür 👍 Gruss aus Luxemburg
Danke Dir. Guck ich mir an!
Nice episode! I'd say your current system is really quite robust. DVCC is a good idea though. Even better would be to have the current limit (going into the battery) servo'd to a battery temperature sensor.
We do something similar (a temperature / power servo) for side-of-building LED lighting. It is needed not only to protect the lighting against someone programming in an all-on condition (RGBWW all on full), but also situations where full sun in summer is shining onto the side of the building that the LEDs are on. Basically the normal PWM controlling brightness has a second control loop coded up in the controller which derates it based on the temperature of the LEDs.
In anycase, its a temperature servo loop with a very slow response time (about 10 seconds) and a linear ramp to avoid causing any noticable flickering or lighting changes. We limited the circuit board to around 85C, but start the servo de-rating at 70C. The system goes into fail-safe at 90C. Due to 'noise' in the measurements, the fail-safe needs to be about 5C higher than the maximum servo de-rating.
For a battery / charging current servo, you would start at 35C and fully-derate at 50C or so (for LFP). e.g. up to 250A at 35C derated linerally to, say, 25A at 50C, and a cut-off at 55C. The idea is that if the servo is implemented properly, the fail-safe cut-off point will never be reached.
This is essentially what fast DC chargers for EVs do, too (at least when the firmware is properly implemented).
Great amount of info here! Now perhaps Andy takes on the task of presenting it for us visual/auditory way??
your batt box did not have ventilation built in so it collects heat. think like your solar was like water or wind . how would get rid of the excess power? use Home Assistant and a couple of esp32's to turn on fan's in the batt box , turn on ac to cool the batt and electronics when solar is to much. home assistant can integrate all of the items (bms , solar charge, inverter's, ect) onto 1 screen and can be installed on a raspi or esp32. and if you want manage from anywhere. so far i am using it to manage 3 smart thermostats (i built esp32) , 2 epever solar charge controllers and battery volts and current and can be used anywhere. phone, computer, pad or display on a wall. check out Home Assistant.
Hi great video, please I have a question : my grid tie solar installation is with Huawei SUN2000-5KTL-L1
Which only use high (400v) voltage batteries but I will like to use 48v lithium battery with it, so please how can I make this combination work? Thanks in advance
Maybe you might consider programming a 'dump load' with the MP2 when the batteries reach full charge so as no to waste excess solar? A HWS, etc.
How does the system dissipate all the unused excess energy coming from the panels?
i have a beautiful clear sky in Ohio with 6 degrees C. Best i got today was 6.3 amps from my 800 watts but of course we are only two weeks away from the shortest day of the year.
Wieso Power caps um große Akku Lasten abzufangen
@OffGridGarageAustralia.. kummer leo aus dem weißen Wallis Schweiz
With all your excess energy that is available, have you thought of perhaps installing dc powered ac units for the garage? just a thought. Thanks for posting.
Excellent!
Yesss
You win lol
@@garys-half-baked-offgrid-dream next time i will wait a couple of minutes special for you.
Great feature , nice .
You should use all the acces power to run a small AC to keep the batteries cool and extend their life
Wouldn't make sense without proper insulation in the garage.
@@OffGridGarageAustralia Yea insulating the garage would be the hardest part
about 40°C for the battery is perfectly fine. I would be more concerned about a charge higher then 0.6C for cycle life
Cool. I did something similar during the autumn to watch and adjust the temp inside the batteries. 3xinverters each at 50A=150A total atm. charging 4 big x 200ah batteries. The batteries WILL last longer when cooler.
Très intéressant ANDY, merci pour ce partage de connaissance.🐸👍
Fascinating demo and info Andy! Thanks for that. Would it be possible to turn on charge current limiting based on battery temp, say a raspberry Canbus PLC that measures temp and sends a message to your DVCC or Charge controllers?
If you add a Victron SmartShunt to the system to only show your DC loads, you can fix the problem with it only considering the total DC load.
I guess I should have waited until the end of the video before commending. :)
Could you briefly show an overview plan of what and how you connect the DC loads to your system? Somehow I'm on the hose what consumes so much on DC.
I think he's using another inverter to power some stuff in the house.
Again, great video Andy!
I have tried the DVCC settings as well in my setup, but I faced the problem that the system should all my energy (into the grid) - any suggestions how to prevent this situation?
Add: I have connected the JK-BMS to my Victron system.
Hi Andy, thanks for all your insights! I'm in the process of building my own battery for a Victron system using your video's. Some people talk about sanding the battery leads and busbars and putting some carbon paste in between to prevent corrosion and make a better connection. Can you ellaborate on that? And do you have a paste in mind? I cannot seem to find any suitable paste. Kind regards from windy Netherlands 🙂
Setting up so you don’t have to worry about it every day. Just let it run.
Hello
I was wondering how you got the remote console screen so large. I've been looking into it and a lot of people are wanting to do that also.
Maybe you could do a video on that.
it is the hybrid of the off griders.... i guess i cant have it without the full gx conversion and at least one external victron shunt
Andy .. Why not supply the dc load before the shunt?..
is possible when the BMS communicates with VenusOS, for people where the shunts measures the current to and SOC of the battery this will not work.
Living the dream.
It comes together nicely, yeah...
One day, I will get batteries and cabling and also have a (admittedly.much smaller, and much simpler) solar setup. Keep scratching together those pennies... 🙂
Thanks!
Thank you very much for your support!
Hi Andy,this what came to my mind when I watched your vidio wouldn't it be just as eazy to turn off one of your installations when we know of the weather will be very sunny for a prolonged period this only requires a flick of a switch.Andy could u please advise me on why the 2 battery packs I have with the same BMSs for each pack show me that 1pack has this
55.81V, cell reading is 3.488 ,and state of charge is 98%.
where the other pack shows ,55.63V, and cell reading is 3.477 and 61% state of charge.these are both JK BMSs can u put a finger on this issue for me.cheers Rene.from sunny Vic. 23cel.
I think Andy wants to automate this process as he cant manually flick a switch if he is at work when this is happening, I did have similar thoughts of ur idea but using relays/contactors to do this automatically via his controllers.
Regarding ur SOC question, I would have to ask if these voltage reading were taken while the battery is charging & at what rate (amps) & also are they both paralleled together, cabling situation, are both BMS’s parameters set & calibrated the same, IR’s, etc? My guess without more info about ur system, is that while charging this SOC reporting data could still be correct or close to, which may not sound right as you would expect them to be closer together than a 37% SOC difference, but at around 3.45v/cell under charging conditions there can still be quite a variation of total SOC/cell, I would not expect them to be as low as 61%, but then have u done a full charge & discharge cycle of both battery banks to help calibrate ur BMS’s? IDK if u have noticed ever, that sometimes as the batteries are getting near full SOC the reading can jump from reporting 70-80% to suddenly it shows 100% as ur cells hit 3.5v-3.6v/cell. You can tweak the calibration of ur BMS’s to some degree to help get them to report more consistent and precisely. Just my thoughts. Cheers
My outback system has current control where it only limits battery input current only but it doesn't work
Do you actually need two smart shunts, can´t you just move the DC load to the other side of the shunt (not battery side)? It appears odd the DC load is not separated from the current in-out of battery....it must be no? The other thing that would be useful is to be able to "dump" excess power (solar power) when batteries are full to a load such as water heater (in your case perhaps heat the pool in winter). How can this be achieved? I had planned to use a PLC/Raspi for this but if DVCC has support for such a thing it would be great. Currently designing a threephase (3x5kW) system using Quattros. Tempcontrol of battery is vital, at around 60deg C the LFP electrolyte begins to breakdown. Staying well away from this battery killer is wise.
Thanks for the informations
Thanks for your support!
Hello Andy, maybe it would be possible to pump the fresh pool water to cool the battery? 37° is still hot to my view.
Cheers.
anyone know if there is a "DVCC"-type setting in the Conext equipment from Schneider?
-4C at my place 🥶🏴
Stay cool he says! 🙄🙄 Wish we had half the temp he has right now 🤭
@@IXISSV That's greedy.... I would he happy with a quarter of that right now 🤣🤣🤣
beautiful sunshine, but we're starving over here .. the sun hasnt been out in a week, What happened? I understand the tilt of the earth gives us less sunshine in the winter but why so many clouds? There was a healthy overcast/rain about once a week here during august september and even october, so much sunshine now we're lucky to get sunshine once a week! HELP please direct some sunshine over here , we're starving, no solar, no power! how many panels would it take to survive the winter gloom? i cant even imagine , can you do it? give us hope? PLEASE
any chance to control it, based on the battery temperature?
using for example a Victron temperature sensor.
that would be also great
Given the sealed design of the prismatic LFP cells might it be feasible to place them a liquid cooling/warming bath to maintain a constant temp similar to what Tesla does?
I did try to fiddle with charge current limiting through DVCC a while ago - but the limit i set were ignored by the system since i have excess DC-PV feed-in enabled. The reasoning seemed to be that the charge controllers always need to be able to supply their full power to enable exporting the excess. Of course the system can miraculously throttle the charge controllers to not exceed the feed-in limit i have set. Really seems more like a software issue to me - i'd be very happy if Victron would address that :/
Dc feedin really does mess things up with regards to charge current - all limits from the BMS are ignored. I’ve reported it and been dismissed by Victron. At the end of the day I just disabled dc feedin.
Hi, I have two mppt connected to a colour control via ve direct. Could the dvcc system synchronise the charging of the two mppt to the battery? How could I set it up?
I currently manually set the maximum amps of each mppt to add up to the maximum current allowed by the battery.
Greetings and thank you very much for your video
Wow, you like to do interesting experiments!
-So the seplos is trying to (partially) control charge by disconnecting with mostfet? ‘Disconnecting with mostfet’ I call that High voltage disconnect (HVD)? Is that the same? And your HVD is set to the same voltage as MPPT controller, no float and 55.2V? It seems to me there will be no absorption in this system?
-The 'microcycling' I encountered while trying to balance an out of balance battery where the BMS does HVD until balance is achieved (brings the bad cell in line). I call that top bouncing and I do not like it. Would that stress the MOSFETs long term?
-Hopefully I have an explanation for your low voltage reading on one battery while charging the other. The charge mosfet is off on the ‘low’ battery. Since your +'s are connected together, and the BMS measures voltage at the cell relative to the common +, the ‘charge switch off’ battery will read a lower voltage (the discharge mosfets acts like a reverse diode and the voltage from your main bus cannot get to the cells). Then when the charge mosfet finally turns on, the higher voltage battery will start to charge the battery that was sitting at a lower voltage……
If this is true you will probably get the same effect with matching batteries (same AH) since there will be small differences in wires/voltage accuracies. It would be interesting if someone reports on a system with matching batteries.
Oooops posted to wrong video. Should be seplos video. Sorry.
Clearly you need MOAR battery capacity, plus a air con for the battery/ controllers, to use the extra. :)
Andy, what is DC POWER in your vrm?
I’ve been thinking about this particular subject in the last few weeks. I’m curious to know how do you know how many amps to put into your batteries at one time without damaging them? 🖖
DId you have to turn off your ve networking when turning on dvcc?
Shouldn't you allow full current under 50% or 75% state of charge and reduce above that. Can DVCC get enabled over a certain voltage?
That's what some Smart BMSs can do (e.g. REC BMS with 2A passive balancing and SMA Sunny Island/Victron compatibility etc). REC BMS massively reduces current at higher SOC.
Hello Andy. When I activate dvcc with my JK bms, it throttles my system to 2kw from 5kw. Even if I set my limit. I just can't find the error.
Very hard to tell from this info... do you use ESS?
Hi Andy, great video. I have a question for you. I live in cold Switzerland, where i have to heat my lifepo4 batteries in my garage to not destroy them while charging. That Problem was solved with the streetlight function on the Victron MPPT charge controller, which allows me to program the heating mat under my battery bank to switch on 3 hours before sunrise and get the batteries above 0°C. It‘s a 25w heating mat. So approx 75wh/day. Isn‘t that bad. So my question to you: i have a big problem with my solar cells icing up and taking a few hours to deice and generate power. Since a solar panel is essentially a diode, could i reverse the polarity and generate heat inside the solar panel? Will it take damage? I could use a buck converter to get the reverse voltage to a safe level. Thanks for anyone replying :)
Hey Andy, why not try setting up the CANBUS of the JK BMS and see what comms you can get working between the Victron system and JK BMS? I can send you the CANBUS cable for the JK BMS, just send me your address. Thanks again for another great video.
Thanks Trevor. I have already done this in a past video. Communicating with only one BMS out of three, would not work well as it does not tell the full story about the battery.
@@OffGridGarageAustralia Thanks, need to go back and watch that one then. Interested in seeing what is possible and what is missing. Thanks for the reply.