Rebuilding a Deck Part 2 - Securing and Leveling Framing Structure
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- čas přidán 10. 05. 2020
- The most important part of the deck rebuilding project is making sure your framing structure is safe, secure, and level. When dealing with a deck structure make sure you understand and follow the local building code in your area. For our project the majority of the wood was still good on our deck but we had to address several issues listed below.
Issues Addressed:
1) Replace Support Post
2) Replace Damaged Joists
3) Replace all Rim Joists
4) Add Blocks Between Joists
5) Level Overall Structure
Hardware Used
Spax PowerLag: homedepot.sjv.io/xgDj3
Spax 3 1/2 Inch Screw: homedepot.sjv.io/97ajY
DeckMate 3 Inch Deck Screw: homedepot.sjv.io/aMQ9q
1 1/2 Inch Joist Hanger Nails: homedepot.sjv.io/1vQM6
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DISCLAIMER: This video and description contains affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission. - Jak na to + styl
Your rebuild of the Deck is outstanding! Thank you 👍
Reding my deck over the winter. This helps alot, thank you
Scott, the way you presented and explained the rational for each of the fasteners you used was extremely helpful and introduced me to fasteners that I have not used before
The information on the fasteners was very helpful, but I was hoping to see how you replace your rim joist and floor joists as that is what I’m needing to do to my deck. I would have loved to of actually seeing you do it.
I like how clean you work and your methodology. I live in Ontario and had to redo a deck as well. There was no breathability. Tight side panels to keep critters out, deck boards were very tight. Boards were rotting from inside out. Stripped the top, pressure washed the joists with mild bleach and braced where needed. Then put joist tape on them once dry. Also added some venting holes on the west and east side with pest fencing. Also installed pest fencing so raccoons couldn’t sneak under and in between the joists. I found evidence of them when stripping the deck.i also cringe when I see ledger boards like that. I had a buddy fashion me an aluminum flashing to cover mine up
I found this really helpful. Thank you.
Amazing you found and used thst size limber whether PTL or standard from a big box store that isn’t green and warped from being cut from “ pretzel trees”. I gave up with lumber from big box stores. Just very low quality with prices of lumber today. Took 3 days lying on ground for my PTLs to twist on a flat surface. 🤨
This video is super helpful! Thanks buddy
You bet 👍
Good information. The 1/4 inch difference in width between the new and original joists is the amount of shrinkage you will get as a new, wet (~35-50% moisture) PT board dries to around 13-17% moisture. In other words, all those new PT joists are going to shrink to the same width size as your existing joists over the first year (mostly during the warm summer months). I'm looking at the same issue and feel it will not be significant. Thanks for the video.
This is a repair not a new deck. Nothing wrong with anything you did and good job on fixing the pier. If you find that the deck seams to bounce too much, consider using tension ties by Simpson which you can get in a 4-pack and with fasteners included for about $50. Quick tip, allow the boards to dry for a month before sealing/staining.
Thanks for the feedback Brandon.
That post/beam set up is jacked up! Notched 6 x 6's or 4 x 4's with metal saddles. And as far as PT vs composite goes you will find that over time, your age and available time will ultimately dictate decking surface choices. I promise you that when you're 40 years old, a few on your hands and knees with a staining brush in the extreme summer heat is no big deal. Fast forward to your mid 50's and your next rebuild, and you won't think twice about composite decking. True, if you're fortunate enough to live in an area where snow isn't sitting on your deck for 4-6 months a year you may not have to deal with this but I did. Doing this now myself for the last time with about 7 years to go before full retirement. I'm getting the hell out of this climate. As for this deck, I'm tearing it down to the footings and starting over. Not cutting any corners this time. They will find this new deck standing tall after the house crumbles around it.
Seems like a waste of money. No one is going to care that the deck is still standing but the house isn’t
Composite is nice in theory but it gets unbearably hot in the summer.
Well made
thanks for sharing, the video is very helpful. did you miss some part of replace the beams? seems start from the beginning of part 2, the some beams have been replaced with new wood already...
Should have shown the repairs.
Are you using 2x6 and 2X8. Also how long are the decking boards? I'm in the process of doing my deck. Thanks for the info! Good ideas and techniques...
What would be the labor cost to complete this job & how long did it take you? Great job!
Really appreciate the thorough explanation. What factored into your decision to replace the joists? I am having to make that decision. Also, what is the distance used to install the extra structure (blocking) between the joists. Thanks in advance.
On an inspected deck the blocking is required mid span when the beam is 8ft from the house or more... But it is a good idea always for any size deck. It will stiffen the floor system and spread the load out better. It also helps keep your joists straighter. Also required over the beam. The beam sandwiched on either side of the post is not allowed in most places anymore. Beam on top the post with brackets or notched posts is the preferred way. This was a repair though so he wasnt re doing all that stuff.
Just curious- which box store were you able to get 24 ft boards from? Thanks.
Do you use local lumberyards? Or just box stores?
Why did you block it like that? Ive always thought blocking had to be continuous, staggered corner to corner being fine.
Why didn't you do blocking for the entire deck? Seems like you just staggered towards the end far away from the house
Not a bad project at all. But if it were me, I would have put at least one more support structure between the ledger board and the outboard double beams. It seems like 12 feet is too much to span.
Those Spax 3 1/2" screws need a T25 diver bit.
That Spax screw box, using a T20 bit, looks like the Spax deck screws sold at Home Depot. The boxes here, today, do not say framing or structural. Just deck screws. Not structural screws. No load ratings on the box. Nothing that says they are tempered screws. Beware if the screw box says they are deck screws because they do not have structural/framing strength.
That 10” tube did you fill it with concrete or just dirt ? Would concrete be better for long lasting ???
I used concrete inside the sono tube.
Thanks . This is exactly what I need to do .
How do you pull the old decking board up, when one of it's ends is 2.5" under the perimeter edge of the house? I'm worried about damaging the bottom portion of the wall. The decking boards are an old version of Trex-like composites and have been there for 21 years now.
Use an oscillating tool, aka, Multitool plunge cutter.
I pressure wash and seal my deck every other year.
I got a small back porch that need to be rebuild how do I go about doing it
Would need some pictures of your current situation to provide some feedback. If you join "Everyday Home Repairs Community" on Facebook Groups you can post some pictures and your question then we can jump in to help.
I would have put another row of cross bracing
Tape those beams
How do you know when to
Repair a joists or it’s good? A lot of ours seem sturdy to the touch but it makes me worried about reusing. Also, what about all the holes in them from the nails when you pull up the deck boards ?
I judged them by the overall joist integrity as opposed to the look. I wanted to make sure that driving new screws into the joists wouldn't just pull out from wood rot. If you are going to the trouble might as well be a little cautious and swap out even the borderline joists.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs thank you, is there anything that you should do about the prior nail holes from the old deck boards ?
Why wouldn't they just build a slab deck, since it's low to the ground, anyway?
What if your deck is 15ft above ground, how should I proceed to build it
I would hire that done.
Are those ACQ pressure treated wood?
Yep, I usually just go with the standard "pressure treated" lumber which is treated with ACQ.
Great video. Can you make one showing how to replace a window. Your videos are very easy to follow.
@@dtran11 Thanks for the kind words. Also appreciate the feedback and have added your suggestion to the list. Many more videos on the way over the next couple of months.
No information on leveling the deck.
He talks about using non-composite shims to get flat and level
Lol it’s the terminology 😅