How To Replace Deck Boards
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- čas přidán 1. 07. 2024
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Check out our other DECK-RELATED VIDEOS linked below!
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Deck boards show wear and tear unevenly. This short video from The Honest Carpenter will show you how to remove and replace individual deck boards with basic carpentry tools.
(You generally know it's time to replace a deck board if it is excessively cracked--or cracked ACROSS the board--or if it is spongy and pitted, or split along the linear grain. If a deck board moves badly underfoot when you step on it, then that deck board should be replaced, as it can present a danger of someone stepping through it.
Tool List:
Circular Saw
Drill/Driver
Speed Square
Tape Measure
Nail Puller
16 0z. Hammer
Lumber Crayon
9/64" Drill Bit
Lumber Pencil
Material List:
Exterior Screws
Treated Lumber
For a detailed article on this topic, including product links, click below!
thehonestcarpenter.com/blog/h...
Steps:
1. Mark bad deck boards with a lumber crayon
2. Measure marked deck boards
3. Identify thickness of deck boards.
4. Calculate amount of replacement deck board lumber
5. Purchase treated replacement deck board lumber
6. Remove old boards with nail puller, hammer and pry bar
7. Sweep off joists
8. Measure empty spaces
9. Cut new deck boards with circular saw and speed square
10. Install replacement deck boards with drill/driver and exterior screws
For more tips and articles, visit us at The Honest Carpenter website! - Jak na to + styl
What attracted me to this video are the subtle safety tips which most of the people ignore. Really in-depth . That's a +1 subscription from me. :)
thank you so much for this. i'm a 30 year old female that bought my first house last year. i've been stressing about the costs of getting some of my deck boards replaced. i feel confident making an attempt myself after watching this video. thank you!!
Thanks so much. Your instructions was the gospel; From the tools needed to do the job to getting the nails out correctly and the boards to replace it with. I just started with a step, now I'm charged-up to tackle the large area's with a passion.
Thank-you beyond words for those of us who need the extra attention to safety and detail. It provides the confidence and enjoyment of "doing it ourselves"!
One of the best deck videos on CZcams !
Liked your video, very clear and concise instructions and well filmed. I just replaced a number of rotted 2 x 4s but found it difficult to extract the spiral nails using the hammer and pry bar technique. I ended up using an angle grinder to take the heads off the nails, then the board comes up easily with the pry bar. Next time I build a deck I’ll used screw nails!
great video and very timely considering the time of year. Appreciate your presentation was very to the point and hope you keep posting!
I am unfortunately at this point in my deck also. I am the repair woman of the house and can use a little bonus direction. I had a plan already but bonus video is definitely a bonus
One of the best videos about decks. After looking at a few videos, I replaced a few rotten planks of my deck last month. It was the first time I did this kind of project. I purchased a reciprocating saw first. Along with the deck planks, my joists which rest on the ground, are also rotten. Some sections of the joists were completely rotted. So after removing the planks, I replaced small sections of the joists under the removed planks with a 4x4 treated wood. It was tough but I managed. I think a circular saw would have worked easier. Removing planks for the entire deck would have been very expensive during these days of the Pandemic. Its now looking colorful but I think in a few months, the color of the new planks will merge with the older ones. Its confusing work initially but now if I need to replace more, it will be a piece of cake.
I had a few boards replaced, next year a few more, until more were rotting the next year. Had the hole deck redone. What a wonderful deck I have now!
great video and very timely considering the time of the year. This is well done for those with zero skill & experience.
Great Idea, I'm about to start replacing the deck boards and this will be perfect. I didn't want to cut them and risk the structure below (which is solid).
Thanks and very helpful, your explanation is amazing for someone who has never held a saw in his hand.
Thanks for sharing detailed instructions on removing old boards. It is a rare video
Very well done! Love all the safety tips, too!
Always need to check the grain of the deckboard to make sure its crown down, otherwise cupping will occur and you will be changing out deckboards more often then needed!
To be clear, and this is what I think you meant, you want the boards to crown up. But that means laying them with the rings appearing to be crown down. eg, the rings forms a smile when viewed edge on.
@@TheRayDog Correct, many people get this point wrong. Forms a smile is a good way to remember; in Canada we always say "bark side down" . . .
@@fredberger3155 how does it cup it, if it goes in wrong?
@@AndyMarr29 Easier to see than to describe. When a wood board with symmetrical rings is still not completely dried out, it can appear flat, but as it dries the sides of the board move away from the flat of the center of the board. Cupping will occur if the board is initially laid flat, and then those sides lift upwards. This would hold water instead of shedding it, rotting the board much quicker. Laid correctly the board will crown, shedding water.
@@TheRayDog what do you mean by viewed on edge?
I finally after much trial and effort ended up using an angle grinder on the screw heads. It's fast and easy on the bad boards. Then just run the grinder down the joist tops to get the screws (not nails on my deck) flat to the surface. It works great. I'm doing a thousand sq foot deck (last worked on in 2000 according to the expiration dates on the beer cans underneath) with three levels of structure with the bottom level six by sixes on concrete piers with rebar sticking out with rotten soft joist tops under the deck boards that I am sistering in (with bolts) ground contact two by sixes to the old redwood six by sixes as all but about the top half inch are good.
I had one area out the back door where the rot went down to the foundational six by sixes close to a rock wall. The rest has all been good, so far. They had let the bottom one have ground contact and it turned to powder in places. I managed with bottle jacks to cut out the bad six by six and put in a high quality spruce replacement on the piers ensuring no ground contact this time. It's actually kind of fun and much cheaper than the 20K plus estimates I was getting on replacing the deck. Oh and I was just introduced to a wrecking bar called the Deck Demon. I will be investing in one of those.
Wow! You made it look possible to do! Best video I’ve seen about the topic so far. Thank you.
Really impressed with the organic walk through. Happy to subscribe.
Very clear video. Nice safety tips.
Very nicely explained for everyone who has no clue about construction but trying.
Thanks Chris! That's a lot of my audience. I try to keep it simple, but still show some pro-level tricks and approaches :)
Thanks for the great info on how to remove damaged deck boards. Now I know what to do!
You’re welcome Nancy. Thanks for writing!
Certainly LOOKS easy. I suppose that’s because you know what your doing and been doing it a while ❤
Super helpful and he made it look easy. I would have pried the boards up, instead of digging nails out first. Glad I watched this first!
@c robinson Thanks for watching! I’m really glad it was helpful 🙂
Doing this project this week and the video was super helpful. Thanks!
Good luck!
Repairing a deck tomorrow. Thanks to this video, I'm confident I can. Thanks !
Thanks, JG! Good luck, work safe 😄
It’s like I’m doing my apprenticeship while watching these videos :) But not being yelled at by a cranky boss :) - Awesome Video, great way to learn...
Thanks Grant! I promise not to do any yelling 😁
I feel your pain. I'm on my first interior job as an apprentice and my boss yells at me at least once an hour, haha...
Beats a complaining spouse anyday lol
@@kimsmith819 omg lol ....
Another great video; thanks for stressing saw safety as well. I noticed the ease of your cuts; a good, sharp saw blade can increase safety by decreasing binding or kickback.
Thank you so much for the simplistic but meticulous explanation and videos.
You’re welcome Robin! 🙂
My God, thank you. I was trying to save myself a bit money by replacing a few boards on my deck. But I have no experience with deck building but thought how hard can it be to replace a few boards. I was making a mess of it. And after the first board I thought, there has to be a better way. And there is, thank you. I don't have a nail pincer. But I'd imagine anything that can get below a nail head will work. Off I go to work smarter, not harder.
Hey honest carpenter, as always, love your work. Adding my two cents worth - with 5/4 decking I'm content to use 2" or 2 1/4" #8 shank decking screws; there's really no advantage to a longer screw, and the #8 shank goes in easily without predrilling (except in end boards of course). Remember, with round rings, bark side down to prevent cupping . . .
Thanks, i had no idea about those round rings and bark side down !
Great video. Just what I was looking for, thank you!
I love your video. You make it so easy!
This was a super helpful video. Thanks for sharing!
When you build your deck in the first place, add a layer of shingling or foundation waterproofing on top of the joists to preserve them. About 3" wide strips. I am rebuilding a 48x12 deck that is 13 years old, and the boards were totally rotten but the joists 100% rot free because of this
Excellent video, thank you. 👍
Thank you for the technical information
What a great video!! GOOD JOB, SIR! Thanks!
Thank you, this video helped a lot.
Dude awesome video super helpful and saved a bunch of money doing it myself. Thank you so much!
You’re welcome Bryan! Thanks so much for watching. I’m really glad it helped! 😄
Excellent presentation!
I just did this using an oscillating tool. When both deck board ends were rotten, I was able to plunge cut to the next joist instead of replacing two 12’ boards. 33” replacements instead of 24’ made it a much cheaper fix. Pulling nails were not a problem because the boards were rotten anyway. 🤣
I like this tip!
Thank you! I think I might actually give it a shot!
Very helpful again. Thank you.
Thank you Sr. Now I have a idea how to do this and have a good day.
Thank you! Very helpful tips. Never thought of putting a 2 x 4 underneath the stick I’m cutting(right next to where you’re working makes sense)Also never saw the trick of using a speed square with a Skill saw!Brilliant and simple, thank you for the lesson sir!
you don;t seem too bright?
Lol stick
@@gamebreaker5518 because I’m willing to learn?
again,you seem like a dodo head.
@@pmoney3688
How did you prevent from using the same nail/screw holes when replacing the board? Seems like you would want a fresh hole for the new screws?
Thank you for the great info.
Steve Romanow You’re welcome, thanks for watching!
Really helpful! Thanks!!!
Nice tip using the speed square as a guide
Thank you for the video! I think a friend and I can do this! One question..I assume you angle the screws in both ends of the board. I know the video shows you angling the screw in the first end but you didn't show the last end. Thanks!
Great video. It's super helpful!
Thanks, Jeff!
Great video! I learned a lot. Now I won't waste time at Home Depot searching for 1.5 x 5.5 inch boards. My deck uses what is apparently 2x6.
Nice job. I'm planning on replacing just all my floor boards in my deck and they were all nailed in previously not screwed. Are screws better to use i would assume ? And are deck screws universal size or are there different sizes. What general size should I use ? Thanks
Excellent. Very thorough and well explained tutorial. MUCH better than the tool before you that did "How-To Easily Remove Rotting Deck Boards That are Nailed to your Deck". That dude turned out to be a hack and a waste of almost three minutes I'll never get back. LOL.
Awesome Thanks! Saved me from buying the wrong size lumber 😅
Thank you very much for the tips. It was very helpful. Just subbed your channel.
Thanks Jeff! More coming soon
Thank you for this. 👍😊
Quality job!
Thank you!
Great info!
Valuble info Thanks
Hello and thank you for the video. I'm going to be replacing smaller sections of a deck as you mentioned to make it more affordable. Is it best to go over one span of a beam and then screw into the next beam on each side?
I am replacing some boards on my deck and noticed all the boards rot at the ends, right on top of the joists. Now I am avoiding the top of joist, replacing by in between joist or about 8in beyond the joist. I realized the water in between boards caused the rot and moving the joint to between joist fixed the problem. The 2x6 boards can easily support 300 lb using the 8 in cantilever. Hope I am adding my experience with my deck. Thanks.
I recommend sealing the butt ends (new and old) with oil/stain, paint, etc. before installing, maybe even the newly exposed joist edges while you're at it; consider staining the new lumber before installation.
I wonder, has anyone ever used a plug cutter to drill around hard-to-remove nails or screws?
Good advice, t! I'm yet to use the plug cutter method, though there are a variety of tools out there now that expose embedded fasteners. Some cat's paws also have a little cone on the side that you can drive down with hammer to divot around the nail head.
If you were going to strip and stain the deck would you, would you replace these boards and then strip and stain or would the stripping process mess up the new boards? These new boards need 6-8 weeks before stain is applied?
Thank you!
Great video. Can you go over if the 5/4 board has a slight bow to it and how to straighten it out if it’s butting up too close to an existing board. Thanks!
Excellent video - stainless screws on a deck would probably outlive the pressure treated wood.
Thanks, I ordered the nail puller 10.6. I am an idiot that used 2x6 and I did not leave any spacing between boards. Now I use 3" deck screws with the square drive heads. I put that crap Rustoleum Revive or whatever its called. After 3 years its peeling up. So now i have to scrape or power wash, my wife wants cement 12x20. So I will replace the boards that have rotted. I also have a corrugated fiberglass roof that looks dirty from out old maple tree right over it.
On my deck, I am considering replacing some boards that definitely need to be replaced due to decay (not many). I was also planning to replace some other boards due to ends not meeting over the joists. They have shrunken away from each other over time and were probably cut out of boards that weren't long enough to begin with. My question is: besides appearance, as long as I don't have boards popping up out of joists and the wood is still healthy, is it wise to replace these short deck boards in order to protect better the joists underneath--debris settles in the open spaces, water contacts those joists more easily, etc.? Other question: how important are the different grades of pressure-treated deck boards, standard vs premium, KDAT or not, or any other considerations. I don't need to stain right away, although I wouldn't be opposed to getting the job done right away, since the deck, as a whole, needs a new coat. Hot, humid, rainy weather in Georgia during the summer makes staining tough right now.
Excellent video! Very helpful. How do i know what type of wood my deck is, and what type of wood to use for replacement boards?
scott howes Thank you! Best odds are your deck is pine if it looks anything like the one in this video. (Composite decks look a bit more plasticky, and more exotic lumber tends to not have this many knots or loose grain.) Its always a good idea to replace with whatever lumber you already have in place. In the southeast, where I live, they pretty much only treat pine lumber, so it’s not hard to source. If you want help identifying what you have, feel free to reach out to me at our website!
www.thehonestcarpenter.com
Helpful video
Thanks Terrence!
I have to replace some smaller portions of the rotting deck boards and join to the good portion of the deck board. The deck is on the 2nd floor - 10 ft above ground. Do you recommend that i cut in the middle of the joist and create a butt-joint or cribb it w a 1.5 inch piece - giving each piece a good inch underneath ? Thanks.
Will that pry tool work in screws? The screws are all stripped on my deck so I am plunge cutting all pieces including at the joining part on the joist. I try not to go too deep in the joints so I don’t slice a line into it, but would be ideal to be able to pry out all the screws so I can bit up the planks against original spot without plunge cutting.
How do you feel about using good sections of removed boards to replace smaller sections instead of new boards?
I mean the color would be closer to matching versus new wood.
thank you!
I have a question... I recently bought my first home and it has a screened porch. It's basically a wood deck with aluminum framing and it's screened in and roofing. I want to change out the decking. The porch is 8' x 20'.... The 2"x 4" x 8' butt up to the house but the aluminum framing is on top. I'm no carpenter so I want to have an idea if its doable for a diy. How do I get the board from under the framing? Do I take framing apart? Thanks
My cedar framework is 8 by 2. The deck is showing its age, with many boards needing to be replaced. Wonder if I should just replace the deck top, as the deck is 12 years old.. Any suggestions. Great video.
do you recommend putting joist tape on top of the joist when replacing individual boards? We have a 19 year old deck and are trying to make it last as long as possible.
Really helpful video, thanks. Would a drop saw / mitre saw be easier to cut the boards with? I assume it would make it easier to get the cut exactly where you want it without needing the speed square?
petee1968 You’re welcome, thanks for watching! Yes, a miter saw would definitely speed up the cuts, as well as keep them square. I sometimes just show cuts like this with a circ saw because I know more DIYers have them
@@TheHonestCarpenter wouldn't it be difficult to cut that 14 foot lumber on a miter saw. That tip with the speed square is a good one I will start using to keep my cuts nice and square
artincorona Yes, it absolutely would! Unless you have a long table setup, anything over 10’ can be a real pain on a miter saw. That’s what I love about circular saws-so mobile. Thanks for watching, and good luck with those future projects! 🙂
Good night, we have on existing deck over our gorage with rails around it, so the rooftop is leaking. Do have to take the rail down to redo the roof? Thanks
thanks good video , but what if the deck boards are installed with screws and the screw heads are damaged ? also , should you paint the back and sides of the replacement deck boards before you install them ? thank you
When you replace a number of old boards in the center of the deck what about the spacing with the old shrunk boards if you’re not replacing the whole deck. I have about 15 boards I need to replace in the center of a large 18x18 deck. They are in a herringbone configuration. If I keep the new ones tight it’s gonna be off because of shrinkage. Any suggestions would be really appreciated.
I have a question. Why is it no one in any of the videos I've watched, mention to put the crown of the board up? That helps keep the boards from rotting so quick. Thanks. Oh, besides being honest, you are the smartest one I've watched!! My hubby use to work construction, and taught me a lot about wood, screws and tools. I do my own projects, and have my own tools. 😀
Thank you, TexasRose!! Glad to hear you’re doing your own work-most folks just don’t seem to want to tackle it these days. And you’re absolutely right about crowning up. The truth is...I just forgot to mention it! Making videos on the job site is so tedious at times that I just flat out fail to say important things. I’m slowly trying to make my videos more comprehensive though. I greatly appreciate the feedback and support-thanks for watching!!
You are so welcome. I really did enjoy watching your video. And mentioning the crowning up was not meant to be criticism. And as you said, it was just a point you forgot. I forgive you! ;) As I said, you weren't the only one. Have a great day, and thanks for your reply.
@@TheHonestCarpenter you forgot to mention it because for people who work with wood a lot, it just seems like common sense :-)
Inevitably, you split the second hole as you drove that screw without a countersink hole to allow for the head to go past the wood surface. On those ends...it is critical to both drill + countersink drill to prevent that split...in 2 years, after some expansion and contraction your board will be split open and screw not holding anything.
Often, I just give in and scab on a small 1' 1'/2" nailer piece at board end areas....to allow the screws to be drilled a full 1'1/14" from the end, then with a slight maybe 15 degree angle you get a great joint with the full 1'1/2" of nailing space on each end joint.
Good info, thanks
Great tips, wished I'd watched this earliers
Thank you! I hope your next deck project goes smoothly 🙂
I redecked a 20 year pt pine deck, I left the frame. Should I sister of of the old joists?
Hi, new subscriber. I have a back deck that was attached to the house which I came to learn is a not a good idea. My back door sill rotted so I replaced the door but I also had to remove about 3-4 ft of deck that was closest to the house. It was cut out along the entire deck length so now there’s about 3-4 ft of missing deck. Do you have any videos for adding in a new section and ensuring it’s level with the existing deck. Plan is to not attach it to the house this time around but to leave a gap between the deck and house. Looking for some videos on how to best do this type of job. Thanks!
I bought deck boards to replace on my deck which measured 1”x51/2” (5/4”x6”). Upon removing old boards they measured 1 3/32”x5 3/4”. Will my green lumber swell to those dimensions or should I just get 2”x6” and rip and plane them down?
I wonder if the joists can take new screws? Will the old screw/nail holes not weaken the new screws?
Great video. Thanks for the point about using the speed square. Is it worth putting caulk on the screw threads and in the countersink hole to reduce the chance of rot? Any tips for what to do if the joist is soft and you don't want to or can't afford to replace the entire joist?
this is kinda later, but the best option would be to sister a board next to the joist to screw to
@@cameronw404 Good point. Thanks.
Two Questions, how reliable is to use the speed square to cut at 45 degree angle? What kind of blade do you use on your circular saw? Thanks again!
Thanks a lot, Jeff! I greatly appreciate the feedback. And I use the speed square as a diagonal 45 degree guide for the circular saw all the time. Just make sure it doesn’t move! Hold it down tightly with your hand-or, better yet, clamp it down with a quick release clamp. Sometimes your retractable guard can hang up on a diagonal cut as well. Initiate your cut slowly and make sure it draws up without turning or shifting the body of the saw. And I tend to use diablo blades for my 7-1/4” circular saw. Reliable, cheap, and fairly long-lasting. If you need advice on changing the blade, you can check out this video I made!
czcams.com/video/snz-E4m4zRA/video.html
do you think that taking out planks with nails would be easier than with screws?
Thank you, Honest Carpenter! Your excellent tutelage just saved me a couple hundred buck! AND I got some self-satisfaction from it after my wife told me that I should hire a professional. Hah!
Thank you for this video! I am a novice and having trouble countersinking the screws. I'm pre-drilling the hole deep enough. Then I'm using a screwdriver bit with a drill. What could I be doing differently?
Hey Joanna, if it’s still very hard to drive the screws, try using a slightly larger drill bit to bore the hole. That should reduce friction on the screw a little bit, but still let it work.
@@TheHonestCarpenter Thank you!! That worked great. New deck boards are in place. :) :)
What would be the best way to fix it a broken board right under the steps?
Can you let me know why you used screws instead of nail? I’m just wondering if you found it makes a huge difference because I’m noticing where the previous tenant used screws the boards are cracked and falling apart where as the ones with nails just flex sometimes and I just hammered them back down good as new.
I used screws on the advice of carpenters back in 2006. Many of them deteriorated after a few years (“lifetime” warranty - yeah) and I found it VERY difficult to get them out. I’m having to dig down to the head and use locking pliers to spin them out. If I had used nails it would be much, much easier to replace things now.
Good video. Can i ask how you cut the deck boards to the joist which weren't full boards?
Thank you Faieza! In this case I only pulled up full pieces (some had been replaced before.) But, you can typically cut them using an oscillating multi-tool. I’ll do a video on that tool this fall.
I was wondering how come you used screws for the replacement board while the original fasteners were nails? Is one better than the other? I wanted to ask because I get conflicting advice online - nails vs screws for decks. Thanks!
Here bc I have the same question
I've got a few boards in need of replacing so thanks for the great video. Quick question, why did you use screws and not nails? Genuine question and not criticism as I am not a carpenter and want to know before I go ahead and replace mine.
I think screws are more robust and they won’t back out with time. Nails are probably easier to deal with since you just need a hammer for install. But screws are the way to go imo. I plan on replacing a few boards and will go with T25 head exterior screws.
Every deck carpenter I have seen cuts boards with a sliding miter saw/drop saw - faster and easier to ensure right angle cuts and much easier on the back than working on the ground