How to make curved moulding | Revealed
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- čas přidán 12. 01. 2021
- Episode #6 Ken shows us how to replicate an existing exterior curved moulding. This week we ditched the gopros to give you a better viewing experience.
Revealed is a weekly series hosted by Ken DeCost the Director of Millwork at NS Builders. Ken is going to walk you through processes, tools, and projects happening in the NSB shop. Want to learn more about something happening in the shop? Leave a comment below and Ken will work it into a future episode.
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How to make curved moulding | Revealed #6 - Jak na to + styl
Good stuff Ken. Fun little project.
Thanks Spencer!!
YES. Love the outtakes. Nice way to differentiate this show from others. Keep experimenting, Ken, Doug, Nick and team.
Never seen those giant staples - pinch dogs. Brilliant idea
I have watched plenty of woodworking videos but never seen those staples. Also shaper isn't your normal tool, but seems pretty necessary for piece this big. Would have been a paint to do that same thing with just a router and a jig.
Great work! Video looks good. It's nice to see woodworking that takes brains to figure out.
Prior preparation prevents piss poor performance need to go on NS Builder merch!
Ken, as always your work is elite. Keep the content coming. Especially the epic outtakes!
Nice job!
Great video, very informative. I was always curious how the curved mouldings were created.
Great job Ken!
Thank you!!
Nice work. Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching Jason
Impressive.
How do you miter curved moulding? Nice project once again!
Need to see it installed.
Hmm maybe next weeks episode will show installation. Better check back and see....
The guy I bough my old Holzer panel saw had the same moulder. He refused to sell it 🤨. Great work Ken 🤙🏽🤙🏽
Thank you. Its a great little machine. Don't underestimate them!
Love it. We need the personality of out-take Ken in the main part of the video though!
I'm working on it!
You can tilt your auxiliary table to the angle of the crown and just use one knife. A couple infeed and out feed supports and you’re off to the races.
It won’t work with an ellipse, but a constant radius is no big deal.
Our shaper does not have a tilting spindle and I have never heard of doing that with a moulder. I'll have to look into it, thanks.
Very informative video on how a complex, radiused moulding is fabricated. I had no idea such a small moulder could turn out radius work. Out of curiosity, did you entertain thoughts about outsourcing this work? I know you outsource finishing work and this seems like a job that is very labor intensive for a small, non CNC shop. Still, really nice work, and I enjoy people who not only TALK about their work, but also show how it is done.
It is very labor intensive. We did ask a few places for quotes before we decided to build the entire entryway in the shop. They came back at exactly what it would cost for us to do it and take longer. Plus this way we get to keep the knives.
Can you guys shoot a video on how you set up the crown on the saw and make the miter cut? As well as angle degree...?????
I’ve had partial failures with poly glue outside even doing everything right. It works most of the time but when doing custom work with super labor intensive glue ups i wont use it anymore, not worth the risk. Going back to thickened epoxy. Never had an epoxy failure with mahogany or cedar and a cleaner, stronger joint. Cure time is longer but peace of mind. Poly glue still has its uses, like glueing up wood post wraps. Poly glue is better at filling gaps and imperfections with the foaming action. But the foaming requires massive amounts of clamps and hides the joint till its cured.
All very great points. Thank you. A quality epoxy is also a great choice for something like this.
I have been looking for a good outdoor glue for a door I am building. Can you share the brand of polyurethane glue that you used
Nice work. How do you price a curved molding like this? seems like alot od work.
nice build and video. Question: how do you like the Cantek machines, specifically the jointer?
They work great and are solid. Good for the money. However if I were in the market for a new jointer, I would probably look at what else is available before buying it again.
@@kendecost thanls!
Great explanation. Just curious about the marks left by the pinch dogs. I'm assuming that this will get painted in which case the marks can just get filled and sanded. If that's the case, why not add screws to the top layer as well and fill those holes too for added strength? If this won't be painted what do you do to hide those marks? Exterior grade wood filler? Thanks.
Great question! The holes made by the pinch dogs actually get cut off. The final knife set trims the top as well, cleaning up the dents caused by the clamps. This could stay natural, without the need for any filling.
@@kendecost Oh, cool! Didn't even think about that. Thanks for the quick response.
I've never seen pinch dogs before, but as soon as I saw them I understood how they work. Would it have been possible to do this with a router instead of a moulder for those who might not have one?
It's possible to stack different profiles to create some type of multi layer built up moulding. However you won't be able to make cuts this deep.
Have you used titebond 3 in the past?
I am considering buying a William and husey molder, but where can I go to learn how to be able to create radius molding? I have a job I will be bidding out soon to replace some arched window casing. Period
why don't you run a shaper with stacked profiles ,so it's one and done just curious . turned out really well even the way you did it !
That cutter head would be over 10". I looked into it. No one would make it. Even if they did it would be ultra expensive for a one off piece and super unsafe. We've used big cutters before but I wouldn't let anyone on our team risk that.
Howd you guys make that miter?
Awesome video. Loved seeing this process. My internal dialogue alternated between, "This is awesome craftsmanship!" and "These clients have way too much money!"
Also, I didn't follow why the glue doesn't get cut by the knife. Anyone have some insight?
Some of the glue runs down the face of the piece into the layer that was already cut. Each knife pass is at a different height. So some of that glue is below the bottom of the knife, under the cutting edge.
@@kendecost That makes sense. Thanks!
What’s your process for cutting that initial arch?
Router and trammel
Outsource it
We have a company that we use that would make a knife. Looks great though
Our Moulder and Skully
The truth is out there. But so are lies.
The end result looks good.
But fact is the machine you used is a small one which dosent have the power or size to make it in one piece.
How about making a custom knife to get one piece. Possible?
I tried, the profile was just too big. There are limits to what our machines can handle and limits to the projection they can make the knives.
@@kendecost Yeah, this doesn't surprise me at all. Also, remember that the further out from the center of rotation the higher the surface speed at the tip of the blade so having a single cutter that big would probably lead to a lot of heat buildup and burning the wood. Incidentally, does the molder have speed adjustment? I've never seen one in person so I don't really have any experience with them.
It does have a speed adjustment. It’s the little knob on the front of the machine in the video.
The staircase should be large