How to Buff & Compound a Black Boat to better than NEW! : Boat Detailing TIPS
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- čas přidán 4. 04. 2023
- In this video, we transform a 2016 Shearwater Bay Boat that was extremely oxidized. We did have to sand to 600 grit to remove the embedded oxidation. We will show how to do this in future videos, so make your you hit that subscribe button. We start using STARKE Yacht Care's Compounds and polishes which is known very well in the professional detail industry and used by many boat manufactures. Level R, Elevate and Triple P take this gel coated surface to a 98.4 on a gloss meter which is unreal. please use all the links in the description if you want to purchase anything from this video.
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Compounds:
STARKE Level R-
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STARKE Elevate -
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STARKE Triple P -
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Lake Country Double Sided pads -
White Wool -
marinedetailsupply.com/produc...
Yellow Wool -
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STARKE $ Money Pad - Rupes replacement
marinedetailsupply.com/produc...
Dewalt Polisher -
marinedetailsupply.com/produc...
Rupes LHR 21 -
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Rupes Claw -
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Gloss meter -
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Please follow us on Instagram for weekly giveaways - @marinedetailsupply or @starkeyachtcare - Jak na to + styl
Capt Ken that black came out choice. I am going to start working on mine soon and will report back how it goes. I will be doing this exact process on a red boat. Then will apply ceramic coating.
This is a huge help. Thank you for making this video.
You’re welcome
Great video and thank you for the time on the phone earlier today.
Great video and informative. I am always looking for information and knowledge.
Glad we could help!
Excellent video, lots of work to get that shine , keep up the good work 🤙🏼
Ty. I appreciate your comments
We have to start sharing and get these guys more eyes 885 subscribers is not enough for a company that puts out products like these. I’ll be sure to start posting pictures and videos of the compounds, polishes and pads and mentioning y’all on my business page 💪🏻
Thank you for the kind words
Thanks for the video,it was a great help for me over here in Spain 👍
Glad it helped
Great videos thanks
Thanks for watching!
Awesome technique thanks for sharing. I always thought to do the whole boat in steps. Heavy cut first then medium. But it leaves too much time for that boat to have open pores. Bird crap, etc will ruin the work ive done.. it makes sense to do all steps in blocks like this and build a sealed boat haha
Glad it was helpful!
Great content. Is there a special backing plate for the double sided pads?
No backing plate for double sided pads. However, you will need a rotary extension rod. Depending on the brand of pad, you may just need to get a quick connect pad adaptor.
That level R is some good stuff. That looks great! This is proof that wet sanding and all that is very rarely needed. As someone that does gelcoat, awlgrip, awlcraft, etc for 13 years I am finding lately that wet sanding by detailers is becoming more popular and it is actually bad as it takes off an unnecessarily amount of gelcoat and is being sold like crazy by detailers because its good money $/ft but way to much gelcoat is being removed when the same results can be done with light passing of 1200 then maybe 1500 grit (1500 not even necessary) abralon or trizact and then buffed out with Starke Level R or other good heavy compound.
I don't offer detailing really but I use Stark level R after patch sprays or to buff after a full respray and it takes out 800 grit wet scratches almost all the waytherefore its already like a 1200 grit sanding almost. I get its good money though, just hate to see untrained people ruining the longevity of gelcoat on a boat.
he said he sanded it with 600-1000 grit first
Really enjoyed the video! Would have loved to see some closeups with an inspection light showing the holograms, halos, swirls, etc. throughout the different stages of compounding and polishing. That would show the effectiveness of the intended use for each product. Other than that, great video!
That’s a great idea. I’ll try to add that on the next one.
Great video and no hate but you should probably work on your rotary technique when it comes to the initial spreading of the product. That 2nd pass with the yellow wool you spewed out a whole bunch of product and made a mess. This is because you need to “pick up” the product by going right to left. Once you go left to right on an uneven spot of product you’re going to get that fling much worse. Hope this helps
2000 rpm’s on a rotary and a little heavy on product was the real reason. At the end of the day, the results are what we are going for and I think I got them. A little extra wiped down never hurt nobody 😂.
Well done. Just curious what would something like that cost as far as the paint correction and ceramic coating on a boat that size?
This one needed 3 additional steps of sanding over just the correction which was in the video. Professionals would roughly charge $4,500 to $6,000 on average.
That gelcoat is stubborn, you made it "wet" Nicely done.
Trying not to sound at all critical, it is possible to use a rotary with 3M's Super-Duty and leave a swirl-free finish with a rotary and a wool pad. (on responsive gelcoat, it's not "common" or expected) Just because we can (I have too) glitch the matrix with a follow up tool to remove holograms, there are ways to avoid them in most circumstances. I'm not sponsored nor do I charge to watch anything I've ever put out, good or bad.
If I were looking at the boat (based on just the initial scuffed phase from Sanding) I'd have used a 'medium diminishing compound with a wool pad. Then I'd use the finer compound till I was happy with the results. After cleaning and inspecting, I'd use my next tool (forced rotation, random orbital or even the soft yellow pad on my rotary) to apply and remove the wax. (When I say "wax" I mean whatever is used to lock in the results of that work) I agree, swirls are gross.
czcams.com/video/NtHgj2ACntI/video.html
czcams.com/video/yO7rMp2jtWU/video.html. (even Blindfolded, swirl-free. Thank the boat gods. I was nervous)
You can do the same with any good compound on a wool pad or bonnet although a pad wins out between them IMHO (3M compounds are what I know/use historically. Mostly, all but one is considered diminishing)
- Although even 3M was left scratching their collective heads when they were here and saw products they make, do the things they were seeing be done but didn't know how or why.-
So I concede that any diminishing or hybrid compound of quality will work on a rotary, forced rotation or dual-action machine. That said, it's the application and eyeball from there on out. One person's "perfect" makes another one look away. We've seen it, you and I. It's a crazy world of opinions out there, obviously I'm not immune to the disease. Sorry.
When I worked with SBD who makes your and my DeWalt buffers, at that time, I needed a better tool to do the work we were doing. Nothing but a converted 'grinder' or concrete saw was on the market that could handle the workload a boat sometimes requires of a tool. Even the old Dewalt buffer, brute that she was, lacked control that an average human could master. My ego again made me do things, I'm working on humility, I am. 3M came to the shop because I needed them to fix some things on their end, to help me do my job better. The ego, I know, I'm not proud of it, it keeps me going so I allow it at 50. Again, I apologize.
I treat all gelcoat basically the same. Like it hates me. Like taming a wild animal, each one will have a different story and/or scar from your individual lessons from it. Not in a Jedi way, more like a don't grab a cat by the tail that you don't know kind of way. White (any derivation of 'light' gelcoat) can have the same level of reflection as black, in my humble opinion. Lighting conditions play a huge role there however and as Mother Nature doesn't care what we're doing or where sometimes, white-ish tones tend to look way glossier than they truly are in certain conditions and quite the opposite is true. 😕Thanks florescent lights and LED's..
Lee
Lee, I've observed your work, and it's truly impressive. Achieving such results undoubtedly demands years of experience, and while it's possible to achieve similar outcomes with a rotary, the long throw random orbital method offers consistent results with minimal experience. Transitioning from the older 3M technology to modern-day abrasives from STARKE, as embraced by numerous boat manufacturers, could enhance your efficiency. Considering the shift made by multi-million dollar companies, there appears to be a compelling reason. I'd gladly send you some products if you're open to this positive change.
I appreciate the kind words, the tools do all the work. I just stand there. I know without a good buffer, I'd be lost. 3M gave me their new forced rotation jam. It works, well but you need to push so hard and so long that I could never do it for a whole boat. A rotary and a random orbital are all I use but I can see the advantages of one on paint vs a rotary although I still prefer to use a rotary 1st even on paint (unless it's old)
I apologize for the sarcastic tone; I wasn't at all disappointed in the video or the results, it was a great demo of what this can take sometimes. I love your approach as to it being consistent and easy to pick up for a noob. That's a great reason to make videos.
I guess I just (like the miriad of Myths with Wetsanding) don't get why there is a sense that swirls are inevitable, they aren't too hard to work without. I've taught hundreds of people how in 2-3 days. I hear you. I guess I try to dumb down what I do too a bit. I do try to show both approaches before showing the 'safe' way so that they know there's another way once they get confident.
I feel like "buffing boats" is so full of misconceptions that my OCD comes out sometimes and I rage against it. When I see lots of steps, I just see dollars flying away in time, effort and products. Just my experience and history. On a big girl, I couldn't have 7 guys using 3 tools and all the pads and accoutrement that comes with a "Drake-style" detail. We'd be there for months and never be able to charge for the time and effort (who would pay it?) So we worked on efficiency and then quality. 200' of boat, swirl-free and better than the day it was splashed at the factory was always the goal. Rotary buffers all day, made that possible and I didn't allow swirls/holograms. It set us apart from all the other detailers here rather quickly.
Yes, that idea and the desire to do better took some time but it's now down to a few days of practice for anyone to learn it and it works on every boat I show in my work. Consistency leads to expectation, the history takes over when the boat is acting up and you need to adapt on the fly but the process being simple helps.
You guys reach WAY more people than I do, think about learning what I do and show it to more people than I touch with my little display on CZcams. Consider it. Years of offering "Drake" and Simon a tutorial for just that purpose has resulted in crickets for years. Sad. They're learning, still, I guess?
Lake Country makes very balanced pads but their wool, compared to 3M's (which, 1/3 of all of them wobble which sucks) the 3M pads (#05753) cut better than anything on the market and don't spend as much time as a softer wool blend. Consider trying them with whatever compound you wanna use and I'll bet you a six-pack of your favorite brew you like them better. I reached out to Lake Country to see if they'd change their blend, they didn't see the point. They also don't buff boats.
I don't even own a gloss meter. I do have a gelcoat depth gague that I've used twice in 18 years.. Cost me $2.3k back then.. I don't even know where it is now.
You guys do a great job, I've always seen and appreciated your efforts and presentation. I was hoping to plant another seed.
If you could take what I do, learn and adapt it to use and show to your audience..
My best.
Cheers,
Lee
I'll agree to challenge us both. You try a 3M pad (rotary) with your favorite compounds and style, I'll try some Stark and see if I can't develop a way for it to finish the way we both want it to. Next year, we can see what progress we have respectively. Who knows, I might owe you some beer.
Lee
I used Adam's graphene coating on the hull of a new boat. I noticed it is no longer hydrophobic on the rear quarter of the hull where the water rushes by when on plane. Is this to be expected? What coating would you recommend from MDS and why? Thanks
Repel Pro is the most durable marine coating in the industry. However, I would suggest you do a venom strip wash in that area as it’s probably just contaminated. After that it may become hydrophobic again.
For future video ideas, like you already mentioned it in the beginning, I would love how to properly dry and wet sand.
This on how to sand on flat and uneven surfaces, what discs are suitable for which situation and which not, what to avoid, how get sanding marks/ pigtails out, etc.
And insane result on this boat!
That’s a great idea
I'm a novice with boat detailing and watched tons of videos and looking for recommendations. I have a Sea Ray 290 Sundancer with black hull. Boat has medium oxidation and light scratches and doesn't have a super glossy finish and is in Michigan. I've been using Shurhold Buff Magic Compound followed by Shurhold Pro Polish with a DA buffer and just not happy with the results. Do you only use Starke Level R if you wet sand the boat? What would be best process to do based on the boat description? Would it be Level R with white wool pad then Elevate with yellow wool pad then finish with Hyper Hold Pro. What steps would you recommend?
Follow these steps in the video. We use Level R if there is any oxidation. The thing is with oxidation, if you don’t remove all of it. It will return quickly.
If you don’t plan on ceramic coating. I would replace Triple P with ignition and then finish with hyper hold pro.
Great vid. What is a "hologram"?
Essentially seeing the scratch marks left behind from the rotary. The reason why it does this is the action in the machine itself is consistent so it’s making consistent scratches across the surface when you utilize a dual action polisher it has two different motions in a random pattern, which is why you won’t seeholograms or swirl marks
Are u running that rupes with the triple p at a 5 or 6 speed?
5
👍👍👍👍👍
Thank you
Is triple p good with lk900 forced rotation
Yes
Let er rip lol
Amazing work but the salt water is the worst it only last one day 😂😂😂
Definitely last more than a day brother. This also received two coats of ceramic coating