MK7 Golf / GTI Brakes Replacement | Pads and Rotors
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- čas přidán 31. 07. 2022
- For entertainment purposes only. Don't @ me if you hurt yourself working on your car. Always have a qualified technician maintain your vehicle.
This is a brake job on a 2017 GTI non-performance pack. The rotor screw commonly seizes on these vehicles, so sometimes you need to drill them out. Also the rear carrier bracket bolts are one time use and are not supposed to be re-used. They can be hard to reach but with an assortment of extensions and the proper bit length (triple square), it can be done. Jacking up the vehicle higher and safely supporting it can give you more working room as well.
Torque specs:
Front Bracket Bolts - 148 ftlbs
Front Slider Bolts - 26 ftlbs
Rear Bracket Bolts - 66 ftlbs + 90 degree turn (replace with new bolts)
Rear Slider Bolts - 26 ftlbs
Wheel Lug bolt - 90 ftlbs - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Just completed front and back rotors/pads. I’m in the rust belt and this video was the only one that actually helped. Thank you for being on point 👍🏼
I'm happy you found it useful! Rust sucks lol
Great video!! Why cant every CZcams tutorial be this easy to understand?? 🎉🎉🎉 good job bro!
I don't like talking 😅 thank you so much!
Good video, well done. Did mine recently as well - found getting the rear caliper carrier bolts out a right pain using jack stands... I did it with much cursing but found myself wishing I had a lift! Those triple square stretch bolts are awkward buggers and very tight on.
They're always hard to do... I found them more difficult on the MK6, I think I had to disconnect a control arm or shock. Getting the car as high up as possible helps fit a breaker bar in the awkward position :)
Great video! Exactly what I was looking for.
Thank you! Good luck!
i am soon due for a rotor and brake change for my mk7 tsi . video was helpful ~ just seeing you trying to remove that screw for the 1st rotor i felt that hard lol
Yea it's painful lol... I wish they used some type of anti seize from the factory
I'm amazed your front rotors came off without much fuss. Mine were only 3 years old and required a couple hours of hammer blows (should have used heat in retrospect). Great video!
That's surprising, which region are you in? I've had issues with other cars and seized rotors but I got lucky here. Thanks man!
@@GibbysGarage15 I'm in northern New England. They way over salt the roads here. Thanks again for the great vid!
This is a great video, makes me think I can do mine. I'm going to try!
Which sprays/cleaners are you using?
Any brake clean will do! Hold your breath!
What size of Allen key did you use on the big bolt on the rear caliper
Great video man, what.size drill bit did you have to use to get the set screw out? I felt that hard
It's best to start out small and go increasingly larger and aim for the centre of the shank, but since I'm so ham-fisted, I wasn't able to align it properly and the head popped off, and I dealt with the shank later (you can see me punching it out in pieces).
@@GibbysGarage15 well good on you man, Im about to have to do the same thing to my mk7 tonight
@@erikpitt767 Good luck! lets pray for a rust-free procedure 🤣
What sized bit were you originally using to get rotor screw out? Also what size did you result to using to drill it out?
I may be mistaken but I believe it is a T30. For drilling, I started with the smallest bit I had and gradually worked up in size.
@@GibbysGarage15 thank you! 🙏
Do you happen to have to torque specs for the different bolts on this job?
Yep!
Front Bracket Bolts - 148 ftlbs
Front Slider Bolts - 26 ftlbs
Rear Bracket Bolts - 66 ftlbs + 90 degree turn (replace with new bolts)
Rear Slider Bolts - 26 ftlbs
Wheel Lug bolt - 90 ftlbs
I always see folks removing rear carrier to replace discs.
On VW and Audis you don't need to do this. The disc will slide past the carrier.
Even the vented discs on the golf R and Audi S3 it's possible to accomplish this without removing the carrier.
And like mentioned. Rotors should always be cleaned before Instalation. When you use your brakes the coating will go away anyway.
I've heard this before, could you care to elaborate? You can see at 8:13, there is almost zero wiggle room between the carrier slide surfaces and the rotor. I always heard about this but thought it was a myth 😅
@@GibbysGarage15 believe me.. There's plenty of room. 😉
You pull the back of the disc forward, the it kinda slides back and away from the hub.
It was actually my mechanic that put me onto this piece of info that made my life so easy over the years doing rear brakes.
@@GibbysGarage15 czcams.com/video/foDa6YnHZEo/video.htmlsi=_tFbUzo8ZsmA4Oh6
Check this out. Minute 8:25.
Andbthese are the vented rear disc that are wider than the solid you have.
@@_LuisS This is a super pro tip! I will do this next time!
@@_LuisS I was soooo happy to read your cool tip (for replacing rotor w/o having to remove the difficult caliper carrier bolts), but... unfortunately I can't get it to work. I've got a mk6 VW Beetle (2013), I'm replacing the rear brakes, and the rotor won't slip past the caliper carrier. It appears that the depth of the rotor hat is preventing it from clearing. Do you happen to have a video link of someone actually getting this to work? Or perhaps an additional suggestion as to how to get it to slip past? Or is it perhaps the case that this doesn't actually work on REAR rotors, only on front rotors? Thanks in advance!
You forgot brake cleaner on the rotor before setting the wheel back on. All the grease for the fingers is on that rotor now.
I'd agree with you on that. Make sure the rotor surface is clean. However, these are coated rotors for rust prevention (I am from Canada), and it is recommended to NOT use brake cleaner on them because it removes the coating. Cheers!
Is the same procedure for the basic Golf's?
Should be identical or at least close to it, yes.
What the gell happened to the rear disc? How did you get them so bad
They were only a couple years old! I bought the cheapest rotors I could find and this is the result 🤣
What’s the purpose of the little screw?
All it does is keep the rotor in place while the wheel is off.
@@GibbysGarage15 thank you
ok 3 major errors:
1) You did not open the fluid reservoir before pressing back the fluid. You could also press out the old "grilled" fluid throught the bleeder and top up later.
2) In front calliper You switched the pins. One of them had plastic bushing on it. Check the video and see again. It has to be on the up side in TRW brake systems.
3) You greased the whole hub under the disk. I know the idea behind it but it created additional UNEVEN layer that will cause micro wobbles of the rotor. Iy doesn't meant to be greased. Just cleaned so flat surface touches the flat surface. It eill be hard to remoce later but it does not matter over ruined rotors.
4) No need to smear the piston against the pad. There is no friction there - the movement is lateral over there.
Overall try to put more effort to cleaning the parts (pins, hubs and calliper sliders) as best as You can. Remember not to polish the rust but to scrub it off.
1) I've seen it done both ways and a lot of people don't bother opening the reservoir. I changed the brake fluid after this brake job.
2) Good eye! This is precisely why in my more recent videos I've started doing them one by one.
3) This is probably true, but it's so rusty where I live I absolutely need to demolish the rotor with a hammer to get it off sometimes, and what if I can't get it off? I'm stuck with a rotor that has dings in it. Doesn't the thousands of pounds of clamping force of the wheel to the hub squeeze the thin layer of anti seize into the crevices and not cause a flatness problem?
4) This is done for noise reduction, not friction reduction.
I'm on 20 months since this brake job with no issues.
Thanks for the tips!
@@GibbysGarage15 all the best to You mate 😀
Yo can u do my brakes? R u in Ontario?
I'm no mechanic unfortunately! Sorry!
@@GibbysGarage15 ahh darn
So much rust, that car isnt sleeping in a garage i think....
Daily driver! Through mud, snow, and salt!