🔴 15 VINTAGE Rangefinder 50mm Lenses for LEICA + How to STOP Lens Flare
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- čas přidán 12. 06. 2024
- 15x 50mm rangefinder lens test for Leica + Prevent lens flare with vintage lenses for Leica
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One good thing I’ve found about the collapsible hood/front cover for the 5cm f2 summitar is that although the hood is big and boxy, they actually designed it so that the top flap of the hood acts as a center marker for your rangefinder and viewfinder.
It is also the most efficient of lens hoods. I always prefer rectangular over round hoods, that just don't make sense.
Yes and it blocks the sun better. I've not got that but I know of it.
I learned photography at a time when we were taught that you ALWAYS use a lens hood. Practice has shown that use of a lens hood does not *often* improve the final image, but we've seen that it *never* hurt an image. You're getting away without a hood on modern lenses with fantastic coatings, but you'll still see a difference if you're shooting into the sun. But shooting into the sun was something we were instructed to *not* do. Yeah Matt, I'm *old*. :-) But those rules are still valid today, if somewhat dated.
Thanks Chris, hoods yes. Not shooting into the sun.. you're missing out BIG TIME! (Back then it made sense if all the lenses flared too much*)
I thought I had a lens problem. This is next level. Actually, no, it's not. This is next 10 levels....🤩
Haha, there is always someone worse off than you.. that's what I tell myself haha :)
Many thanks for this new video. I like a lot the extra you have brought: the mirror. From my point of view, the precise object (e.g., lens) is how our eyes see real world (outward), and the blurred reflection is how it is persisted in our brain (inward). So by using an out of focus mirror, you make use of this duality’s concept, that doesn’t necessarily need to mean a precise replica, like in this case.
Thanks David! Sadly I'm not as smart as you and I just thought the mirror looked nice and helped fill the frame. I'm happy it can have multiple benefits.
I just watched that video you referenced Sunday afternoon. Thank you for adding all this detail today.😊
No problem Steve, thanks!
Hi Matt, Try Actina 36 push lens hoods and No2 or No3 yellow filters, you could also use Nebro lens hoods all work a treat on uncoated lenses. So if your thinking filters you use 36 lens hood but filter glass is 34mm.
Thanks! I use A36 push on filters. You'll see them in a video to come soon (on digital.. to give you a clue!) :)
HEY kislux I have been watching you for years and im so proud of where you have made it! I love you so much! Also thanks for making my day
Thanks
Very good, I already have this telescopic lens hood (not as nice as yours, but it works). Will give it a try. And I'll try some modern screw-in lens hoods to see which would do a similar job.
Thanks! Yes I was happy my inquisitive brain lead me to this discovery too.
Lens hoods have somehow gone out of fashion. You are giving excellent advice! A lens hood is also the best protection for your front element, much better than screwing two more reflecting surfaces (aka "protective filter") on the lens. Additional remark: Haze also contributes to lens flare. Even a very small amount of haze can make your lens "glow" more than you may care for. Bad news: Old lenses almost always develop haze. (Interestingly, the humble Industars and Jupiters are an exception to the rule.) Good news: In most cases such lenses can be cleaned easily. // Glad that you mention James Ravilious: a very fine photographer who deserves to be better known. Many thanks for the video.
Thanks! Yes to haze (sadly). My Canon 50mm f1.8 has fungus as those lenses are cemented elements so hard to clean. (I had my Summarit 50 1.5 cleaned but not in this LTM lens review)
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom Don't yet through the towel on the Canon. Fungus rarely creeps into the cemented surfaces -- it usually sits on the outer surfaces. Frequently it just wipes off, sometimes with the aid of some agent such as alcohol, naphta, ammonium or peroxide. See the excellent videos by mikeno62. I have restored many old lenses with fungus or haze to a crystal clear state. The only one that I couldn't recover that way was a Summaron 35/3.5 (which is known for its stubborn haze).
@@atf2940 interesting thanks! I did think the Canon was a cemented block and hard to clean. I took mine apart (partly) yesterday and it’s inside the main block not on the front element. I didn’t try to dismantle the block. I’ll buy some more tools and try again! Thanks!
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom Yes, the grime usually sits on the surfaces facing the aperture blades. Good tools are essential. And take your time, take notes and make photos of disassembly stages. With patience and a steady hand you'll succeed.😃
Did you try the Leica Valoo lens hood for Elmar 5cm? It is very useful as you can change the aperture very easily from the built in aperture ring. I think it is fantastic! Stays on my Leica IIIF all the time.
Ah very cool, no i've not used that but the idea sounds brilliant!
Great video!!!! Thanks :)
Thanks!
Nice video! thanks for the job. It's funny because i bought today the original lenshood for my nikkor sonnar version 105mm. I always though lenshood are very important.
Thanks! They are are some lenses (those that suffer from flare) but modern lenses have good coatings.
Thank you! Intrigued about the two Canons. Having the 1.8 and 1.4 myself, I'd be interested to know how your 1.8 and 1.2 fared (or even 'flared' 🙄)?
As you saw from the results they were not the top performers but it will depend on each lens copy for haze etc. I've got great images from the 1.8 and 1.4. See those full videos.
Thank you for this very interesting and informative video. I agree the Bayliss video is very interesting and well done. As a note, please be super careful about collapsing collapsible lenses on mirrorless cameras -- I have both scratched a sensor (on a Fuji GFX 50) and scratched/marred an internal baffle (on a Sony A7R) by imprudently collapsing such lenses.
Thanks, yes you can't hit the sensor on a FF camera but it's more dangerous on MF sensors. If I hit a light baffle I'm OK with that. Not sure about Sony.
Great Video as always! I love both my vintage 50mms (Nikon Nikkor 50mm f2 and Jupiter 8m). I still want to get my hands on some collapsible lens, cause i find them quite exhilarating
Thanks! Yes I love the small lenses too
Wait did the lens hood fit on the summitar? I compared to my elcan, doesn't seem that bad (although i do have the coated summitar), but will test some more on my next trip :)
No sadly the Summitar is a bigger diameter so the hood didn't fit (so it was at a huge disadvantage. Yes we test on the next meet-up!
Love the video! I used to own a Nikon S2 with the Nikkor 50/1.4 lens on it, never used a hood and it always produced stunning images, never failed. There are a couple of Canon Serenar LTM lenses I’ve been eye-ing, both collapsible, 50mm f1.9 and f3.5. Was wondering if you’ve tried those or will be reviewing them.
Thanks! Yes amazing lenses (Nikkors). I've not used those specific Canons but I own and use the later models, 1.2 (video to come soon), 1.4, 1.8. All great.
I'm not disputing the usefulness of lens hoods with old uncoated lenses... but judging from the video, it kinda looks as if a lot of those lenses also could use a good cleaning, dunnit? Or is that murky look because of haze/fungus/separation/etc.?
I did some of the B roll (close up of the lenses) the day after so they'd been sitting out on the floor for 24hrs and got a bit dusty. All my old lenses could likely be improved from a proper clean but I'm not yet.skilled enough to do it myself.
Which one is the best? Well none , they all not optimized for sensor and hood helps only against direct sun but most of them does not have or barely have anti reflective coatng on the last lens element. Other thing is that on every digital camera it will have different performance , and stil it works best on Leica M digital and Nikon Z due to thin sensor cover glass and sensor design.
Thanks, it's easy with digital, just add de-haze but I'm trying to get nice images with some of these on film (where I need to create good negs to try to print in the darkroom). SL is fine for M glass, and Lumix. Zf seemed OK from my test video.
anyone know of a square hood for the v3 M 50mm? i have the round one
Check eBay, I saw a square one this morning but not sure what size
Video @ 0:50 - "Leica III F" - Not sure why Matt is including/saying "F" - The serial number 145405 is in fact a 1934 Leica III - Only 1,100 were produced.
The true Leica IIIF is a later model that allowed FLASH usage (hence the "F"). It was the first Leica screwmount to have internal flash sync mechanism/contacts.
Thanks, there's a lot of confusion around the models. See my recent blog post. Mine is a 1934 Leica III Model F not the 1950s later IIIF. I have the IF and IIF "modern" ones. I got this specific model as the first with (1) 1.5x mag RF, (2) diopter (3) lugs (4) slow speeds... I needed 1&2 for my portrait work (conpared to my recent II Model D that doesn't have these. See the blog for all info.
Quoting Camera-wiki's Leica page: "Note: Capital letter model designations were used in Europe; Roman numerals were at first used in USA, and became universal after the Model G (IIIa). There is often confusion between the sub-letters in lower case used on the Roman numeral designations, and the capital letters used in the earlier screwmount models; they do NOT equate!" So what Matt is actually saying, I think, is that he has a Model III/F [III is the US designation, F is the European designation.] I'm sure glad they unified this system after the IIIa/G!
But if you want to be totally unambiguous and also extra-nerdy, you can use the Leitz letters-only "codeword" system, in which case you can say Matt has an AFOOV and the later 1950s model with flash sync is an LOOHN. Absolutely no risk of confusion this way! (By the way, if you need an original Leitz close-up attachment for your 5cm Elmar, you order everyone's favorite Leica codeword, NOOKY.) I've heard Leitz originated this codeword system to make it easier for globe-trotting photographers to order the accessories they needed via Telex, but I've also heard that's a myth, so take your pick!
@@jlwilliams thanks for finding the truth about the naming convention James! I have the NOOKY Hesum adapter! See latest Flickr image, I used it just yesterday
I think you need a wide anamorphic lens. Just to get all your lenses in frame 😉
Haha, Probably if I got them all out! :)
I may be a belt and suspenders guy but all my M-body lenses have an IR/UV filter and a lens hood on them. I like the hood shading the lens to reduce glare, the M8 and M9 have IR problems and it does not hurt the M240 any that I can see. My other lenses are UV plus lens hood, even the HB. Hoods and filers are way cheaper than lenses. You see, space is not a problem for me. I usually have only one camera and it always fits in my cheap old bag just fine with batteries. I'm sending a Ploughman's Lunch which I know you will squander on film. Happy shooting. This was another great presentation.
Thanks very much Sandy! Yes I will put it towards film for sure! I did try this test with an added UV filter too. To my surprise there was more not less flare. (I forgot to add the results, sorry). In normal use I think it's got to protect rare and expensive lenses with hoods and filters and most of my students that visit me use Leica filters.
Jeez how many of these lenses do you actually use vs just sitting there?
They have different strengths so I rotate depending on my needs
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom Get married and she will make you get rid of 90% of your lenses. That will take care of that.
@@sebastiang7183 And she will also ruin his career as she will not tolerate him photographing scantily dressed young women!
@@jacquesmathurin8389 You sound like a wise man with real life experience.
@@sebastiang7183 I’m enjoying single life (and as much camera stuff as I want) for now haha
Man you're obsessed 😃
Ha sorry, I love trying to find out a particular tool for a job (in this case, the best lens to use on the 1930s cameras so I can get some good results for the effort). Each lens has it's strengths so it's fun using different ones for different tasks!
I'm so confused... why didn't you test all 37 50mm lenses that you own?
There's only so much time in a day, I had started with a handful but my inquisitive nature kept adding more to the pile! ..I probably should have added the 50 APO (CV) as a benchmark in hindsight!
@@MattOsborne-MrLeicaCom lol jk Matt 🤣Also, now we know you have at least thirty seven 50mil lenses 🏆
@@ftlbaby haha I thought you must have counted from the list on MrLeica.com under lens reviews! If not take a look
You've got a real problem! 💉 🙄
Haha that was just a few. I enjoy the testing and accumulated them over the years. They hold their value so not so bad. (Many camera free with cameras*)