Rochester B BC Carburetor Rebuild
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- čas přidán 21. 11. 2012
- www.carburetor-parts.com is providing this video about rebuilding the Rochester 1 barrel carburetor. This is a complete rebuild video.
UPDATE: We mention poking a hole in the mounting gasket. That is not necessary. See this: www.carburetor-blog.com/knowl... - Auta a dopravní prostředky
What a blessing this video was I was able to get my 1955 chevy truck running great. I had the large ball where the little one belonged made all the difference. Thank you my old eyes missed the size lol. God bless
Glad you got it correct. Thanks
Thanks Mike this video was a huge help! Thank you for the rebuild kit 👍🏻
At 38:12,you mention that your float level is 1-9/16. According to my rebuild instruction sheet,(Airtex Part# 2G1045),it calls for 1-9/32. I set mine at 1-9/16,and it's starving for gas. Mine's a '55 Chevy 261 6500 2-ton. GREAT tips!! I'm tearing it back down,just to check some of the stuff you mentioned. Doesn't take long to rebuild one of these,as long as everything is good and clean! Thanks,again!
Liked the vid... very well done. Just did a similar one and was not sure where the aluminum ball goes until I watched. Thank you for your knowledge.
Thank you very much for posting this video! We just used it to rebuild the carburetor on my 1952 Chevrolet Deluxe! You saved us a lot of time!
Thanks for the detailed video it helped me get my old sled rolling once again like a new one
This is a pretty good video for it's detail in showing nearly the entire process. Thank you for posting this. I was able to rebuild the carb on my 49 pickup pretty easily after watching this a couple of times.
THANKS A TON MIKE. GOT ON THE ROAD YESTERDAY AND NO HESITATION ANYMORE!
Thank you for posting this very informative video. So many valuable tips and explanations. Great video workshop, it was a major factor in rebuilding my carburetor and installing it to find all was running great.
Thanks again, I really appreciate your effort.
Maurice
Excellent , Wonderful of you to help people out .God Bless .
Lue
This is literally such a big help to me. I’m rebuilding a Rochester B, and I did it wrong. I’ll fix it because of this!
So helpful and full of information, thanks for taking the time to put this video together. At 21.50 Mikes talks about the gasket holes not lining up, this hole is for vacuum to the power piston and cannot be block or hesitation of acceleration will result. I noticed there are two gasket in most kits, one is for the 216 cu in and the other is for the 235 engine and the hole patterns are slightly different on the two gaskets.
Thanks great video helped me rebuild my carb for a 54 bel air
Nice, but I wish you would have shown each part that was being taken out close up. With the dim lighting and the fast pitch of the parts into the plastic bin, it leaves me wondering what that part that just came out was and what it looks like. (this will be my first time opening one of these up)
Yeah there's lots of great knowledge in here I've been through these carburetors for years better lighting in a little slowed down to show the detail of the pieces would be better for somebody that doesn't know other than that great video.
"Don't snap it because they aren't available and hard to come by."
"Don't hit it too hard because it will get stuck in there and you'll never get it out again."
Even though I walk through the valley of the shadow of death, I will fear no evil, for you are with me, Mikes Carburetor.
1st - thanks for your time. Just want to let you know that unless you have better lighting, no newbies can rely on watching what is usually "invisible".
Thanks, Mike. got one of your carb kits for my work truck..
complete vidio, excellent! thanks
Great job! Love all the extra tidbits from your experience and for taking time to make a video. Have a question on the newer style with round style accelerator pump, where does the shot of fuel exit into the throat of the carb? I was checking a no start condition there wasn't any shot of fuel when I operated the throttle but when I removed the top of the carb the bowel was full and the seal was a recently rebuilt rubber one that looked good. When pressed down some fuel bubbled out top of where the -t- retainer is located but nothing into the carb body. Thanks again for your time.
I think he is referring to 21:58 Thanks for the video by the way. It was great! It seems like you have taken one of these things apart once or twice ;)
Great video! Thanks.
Very helpful video Mike. Mine would not run took it apart umpteen times It was insect parts in the venturi tube. Duh. Now all is well.
beautiful job. :)
Mike thank you! I am having trouble installing it back to my Chevy inline 6. Any directions?
Great video thanks
Welcome
Hi Mike - Great video - I purchased a rebuilt carb and my exhaust is black - how do I tell what jet I have and which I should try next? It runs OK but get black exhaust and spits black out of exhaust when I start it
I have a 235 str six, Rochester one barrel(bc). Prob with vaper lock. Any advice??
I havea thicker gasket I want to reuse for the bowl do I need to take it off and measure to the metal or just measure from the top of the thick gasket its a big difference
I rebuilt mine and the engine stalls when I hit the accelerator quickly. I noticed that the accelerator pump doesn't push fuel immediately because the top spring gives maybe a little too much. I lengthened the spring but now I'm wondering if the pump is sitting in the correct position at idle. Should I be able to see the bottom of the rubber so that the fuel can go from the bowl into the well?
Hey bud was wondering on this carb i have the same on my 51 3100 chevy on the base plate bottom are both orifices to be open or is one okay to be blocked off by the gasket .. cuz I think that's my idling issue. I know one is for the idle mixture screw. I dont know what other is. Thx God bless 🙏 trynna get her back on the road
Great video, got me through my rebuild process with no problems but I would suggest more lighting, hard for my old eyes to see some of the details
Thanks 👍
Hey Mike, I have a 235 inline 6 engine and with the choke all the way pulled engine starts but has really high idle. When I push choke in it kills the engine any tips for combating my issue?
big help thank you
Hey Mike,
I appreciate your help and posting these videos. How do I inbox you on a couple questions about the Rochester B BC 1 barrel Carburetor
Hi Mike im rebuilding my rochester monojet 17056014 ,but upon disassembly I noticed that the spring was installed towards the inlet fuel pipe and the rubber of the fuel filter check valve was up against the spring.not sure if that's correct for this kind of carb.your videos show different.
Great video Mike - I have just installed one on my 1966 Chevy pickup with a 6cyl 250 - the throttle body is leaking out the side when gas is given - it's a new / rebuilt unit - I can't imagine it's supposed to do that.... I plan on taking it back off and returning it... however, I would love to know how this would happen? Just to have a conversation withe the store... or if it's simply an adjustment I would like to know so I don't have to remove it? Any insight is appreciated!
Mike, Right at the start of Assembly (11:08) you show 2 small pin holes, well I can see a small copper tube inside that appears to cover one of the holes. (Also don't get air thru the pinhole on that side). Any ideas?
I am building a wild 292 Worked inline 6 Chevy, 3 NOS 7025003,on and Offy 3X1 manifold I stepped to 74 jets, can you really modify these for peak performance? 1.57 throttle bore and I think 5/16 venturis. what CFM does these make, Thanks Brad ,BTW, I purchased several items from your site, excellent parts and service .I also have a MAN-a-fre -with 3x2 Rochester's. And a dual quad intake, so not sure what to run.
Thank You Very much
Welcome!
I used your video to rebuild my carb (4468). At 25:50 your talking about how there could be two holes in the accelerator pump well. I technically have two holes but one of them appears to have a stuck aluminum check ball that can be seen from outside of the carb. It didn't seem to be the "on the bottom" that you were referring to it is actually directly across from the other one. I left if jammed in there to seal that hole leading outside the carb. Can you confirm if this is correct? Thanks
Mike I have a 1961 Chevy apache and the carb on it is a Rochester type C no one seems to have heard of it and I cant find a carb rebuild for it. Are you aware of this type? Thanks
What do you use to clean the outside surface?
I rebuilt my B carb for my 54 235 and it still pops on acceleration. I have adjusted the valves and replaced the ignition system. There is still no squirt from the accelerator pump into the throat when moving the lever so am I to assume the new pump is not working or not sealing?
the T lock that holes the spring down might be in the wrong way and is blocking the hole that squirt the gas from the accelerator pump into the throat
Thanks for videos ! Just wondering if the throttle arm has that play up an down how do u fix that issue
Sorry it’s on a 65 Rochester bv
Isn’t there a check ball at the bottom of the vacuum plunger? Where does the aluminum ball go?
Hi Mike. I bought a 1960 235 motor with a Rochester RP for my 1954 Chevy 3100. The guy I bought it from told me that the carb needed a rebuild cause it leaks. He threw in the rebuild kit, a CARQUEST 123A made in USA and I plan on doing my first carb rebuild with it. Is the carb in your video that different to mine? Would I be able to use it as a guide and not get lost? I also have a Rochester C. Which do you consider to be a better carb? Thanks you so much.
did you end up taking a chunk out of the manifold gasket
What are you using to soak your parts in if I may ask I'm fixing to start cleaning mine before assembly
@@MikesCarburetor got you. Thanks for the quick reply. I was trying to come up with something around the house but I'll go get a soaker
I stripped out the inlet hole where the fuel filter screws in, should I try to retap it
Mikes Carburetor I cleaned the threads out really well and got the filter to screw in but now I need a rebuild kit for the carb. I’ll be ordering the kit off ur website 👍🏻 finally getting my dads 54 chevy 6400 running, it’s been sitting for 35 years
Might be a dumb question, but genuinely curious. Can you run it without the check ball and spring the small ones, above the spring-loaded valve? (Yes, I lost the tiny spring 🤣)
@@MikesCarburetor thank you for this!!
Know this is a long shot and a bit of a loaded question. But have a 66 c10 in-line 250 6cyl, and was having some issues with starting/flooding on occasion. Ran some sea foam through the gas tank and then right after had issues with stalling when on the road, though it would idle fine. Long story short decided it seemed like the carb after troubleshooting the rest of the fuel system, have this exact carb and it was filthy on the inside and the power piston is completely frozen. I watched your video on heating it up which I will try in a bit. But just a general question on if the stalling out would typically be a sign of the piston being froze up? I’m new to carbs and just trying to get a second opinion on if I’m on the right track - thank you!
@@MikesCarburetor I appreciate the reply my friend! When you say other problems are you thinking other problems with carb or completely unrelated?
@@MikesCarburetor looks like you were right, put the rebuilt carb on and it is leaking from the throttle shaft. From what I see it isn’t really worth trying to fix that part if it’s even possible. Would you suggest a completely new carb? I hear Carter YF is a good alternative but not familiar - any advice would be greatly appreciated!
What did you spray on the gasket before applying it? Does it help the gasket seal? Thanks!
I probably used silicon spray lubricant. It helps keep the gasket pliable.
hello from Uruguay! do you know what size are the jets for a standard cylinder sized engine? thank you!
in the video at 38:13 mikes says the measurement from the gasket to top of float is 1 9/16 ....
but in the paper work that comes with the kits says 1 9/32...????
in fact they all are 1 9/32
which measurement is right?
@@MikesCarburetor thank you sir
What happened at 6:45?
your videos are to fast and to DARK for someone tying to get information on how to do it. but i do appreciate your help on the subject. Thanks
You said the float level(not drop) should be 1 9/16,but my Napa parts kit says 1 3/4 for a Type B. That's a 3/16 of an inch difference. I believe you're wrong on that ! Clue me in !
Do you all have type C kits for some reason I see them no where
@@MikesCarburetor I'm not even sure it's what the C stands for on my single barrel Rochester carb?
@@MikesCarburetor I was able to make out the numbers at the base of the carb it looks like it says 7004522 It's for a 1961 Chevy Apache inline 6 cyl I do know its a single barrel Rochester with a manual choke.
@@MikesCarburetor The tag is missing thanks for that information
that for a truck? chevy differate maybe wrong
My kit says float level is 1-9/32, not 1-9/16
Ok so from the top of the thicker gasket 1 and 9/16
just noticed the duplication prohibited, I will delete it from my files, I thought it might help someone later when we don't have internet
39:19
It’s a Rochester B carburetor
Next time use more light while filming. It’s too dark and can’t see details
Everything is so dark i cant see what is happing sorry can't fellow you
Is he wearing a shirt
Just think, you probably could have been a brain surgeon.