Grab adhesive test using 316 stainless steel
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- čas přidán 3. 01. 2017
- In this video I test out some popular grab adhesives by sticking down some 316 stainless steel pieces to some sheet 316 stainless steel. In a previous test using blocks of wood and plywood many of the adhesives performed much better. You can see some previous tests here-
• Grab adhesive strength...
• Grab adhesive - grab a...
The stainless steel was cleaned thoroughly using methylated spirits (denatured alcohol) before applying a similar amount of adhesive to each test piece. The whole testing rig was then left in a centrally heated house for over a week before the test was performed.
The results of this test are-
NO MORE NAILS 64 PSI
UNIBOND MEGA GRIP 81 PSI
CT1 148 PSI
STICKS LIKE SHIT 191 PSI
ADISEAL 201 PSI
MAXIMUM TORQUE 213 PSI
GEOCELL THE WORK 218 PSI
SOUDAL FIX-ALL 230 PSI
NEMESIS 254 PSI
SERIOUS STUFF 320 PSI - Jak na to + styl
*Happy 2017 to everyone*
This is the first video of 2017 although work began filming this in early
December. After being contacted by an adhesive manufacturer that was not happy
with the first test using timber I did what they suggested and repeated the test
using stainless steel.
If any adhesive manufacturers want their grab adhesives testing for free they
can contact me on here and send out samples and I’ll test them when I get time,
providing the results can be filmed and published regardless of the
effectiveness of the adhesive.
*Please comment, like and share this video as it really helps*
Well really it's called "sticks like sh*t", but what else could the * stand for ;-)
Thanks for the comment
Ultimate Handyman I'd have thought the stainless test would have been tougher to prove an adhesives yield. Presumably timber would help it cure by taking up moisture within the adhesive? Not sure.
you must be doing summit right to rattle the manufacturer's cage ... Keep up the good work, you are the man!
Happy New Year
Yes, it seems these grab adhesives work better on wood because of the absorbency of the material.
Thanks for the comment
Happy that I found you here!
Very rare test of gluing stainless and it is really hard to find the good adhesive for stainless steel and you have saved me time and money.
So much appreciated. Thank you so much
As per usual a good thorough test on all the adhesives 👍🏻
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Love watching your experiments - enjoy trying to predict the end results but never manage to successfully. I think all your tests are very entertaining and informative - keep um coming!
Thanks for the comment
You sir are a true scientist. This content is remarklable helpful and well documented. I wish you the best!!
I'm hardly a scientist- just a guy doing DIY 😉
Thanks for the comment 👍
What a great test, thanks for taking the time mate!
You are welcome.
Thanks for the comment Dale ;-)
Happy 2019, keep up the good tests!
All the best for the new year ;-)
Thanks for the comment
i appreciate your efforts and enjoy your videos
Very good video fella as always, nice to see you back posting
Thanks, I'm still very busy on site but I am trying to get videos filmed and edited when I get chance.
Thanks for the comment
really thorough and fair test, very interesting to see how the different brands compare.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Thank you for the test. Good to know. Made my list.
You are welcome.
Thanks for the comment
A no nonsense and honest presentation!
Thanks for putting this together.
Liked and subscribed!
Thanks for the sub!
Well done for taking the time to do this. As a consumer I trust someone who I believe has no vested interest than the writing on these tubes of adhesive.
What is scary is the vast difference in the results!!
Keep up the videos. Love your channel!
Thanks Graham ;-)
Great test mate
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Love these tests
Thanks ;-)
I have some more planned, which I'll do when I get chance.
thank you. always enjoy your videos
You are welcome.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
A really good video , thanks for the time and effort, and the cost of making this video 👍
Glad you liked it!
Thanks for the comment 👍
Interesting vid, keep up the good work!
Thanks ;-)
A great test as ever. I would comment to the manufacturer who suggested this metal test that most of us will use these products on timber for the most part, so for me personally that was already the most relevant test anyway.
Thanks John ;-)
Good information, thanks for the review.
You are welcome Phillip, Thanks for the comment
interesting video with steel, thanks for taking the time to conduct the tests. As a DIY'er the timber test is more related to how I use adhesive at home!
You are welcome.
The wood test is also more relative for me as I would never join metals using an adhesive.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Legend, you just saved me some money, thank you very much lad
Good stuff ;-)
Thanks for the comment
Many thanks from this DIY beginner.
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
Excellent video. £10 says you'll be doing a 3rd video !! Nice to know that there are better adhesives out there and not the ones that get the best display positions.
Thanks, yes I have just ordered some more grab adhesives to test out when I get chance ;-)
Thanks for the comment
Very good video. I believe on metal you have lower surface area in contact with air and they dry a LOT slower than wood, it only has around the sides. Very good comparison.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Great test. I'm curious to know if you've ever done a stone to stainless or stone to stone test?
I've never tested stone, or any kind of masonry- I might try it in future tests.
Thanks for the comment 👍
nice to see you go out your way to help them but I found the woof one a lot better because fits real work purpose I wouldn't use on stainless just me tho
Great video, happy new year. PS I was interested in how long those speed taps lasted...
Thanks, I have not used them since making the video but I have a set at work for the next time I need to tap anything.
Thanks for the comment
when you count many trades want 20-40 an hour, its after a few uses they have paid there way, for the rest of us, probably stick to the slower old way as its cheaper!
Great test, I guess there would be occasions where you would want to stick to metal, such as boarding over RSJ. Bash some bits of stud work in and slap some adhesive in for double measure. would be interesting to see how JB Weld would cope with the steel to steel...
Could the angle of applied force be a factor here, with the wood the press was applying equal force across the wood in forward motion, when using the steel the piece was being pushed forward and up.
Yes, that could be a factor but I was struggling with the stainless steel due to the amount of room that I had (on the two pieces of stainless steel sheet) and also the stainless box section that I had ( I did not have enough to cut wider pieces). Obviously 316 stainless steel is expensive and I have to feed the kids LOL.
Having said that all pieces were left for the same amount of curing time and all pieces were removed the same way and there was a huge difference between the weakest one at 60PSI and the strongest at over 300PSI.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Very nice
On the whole, looks like a pretty fair test, but how much force is absorbed by the adhesive's elasticity? It appears as though some of the products "gave" but didn't completely separate straight away. I wonder if this skews the results, or if this has any bearing in actual applications.
Thanks Jo, yes some of the grab adhesives are marketed as being flexible which could be useful in some situations (although I can't think of any).
Thanks for the comment ;-)
i know u made a video on silicone removal in a tiled area ,but i have black mold silicone around door and window frame due to condensation and the plaster wall around it is also a bit manky ,does anti mold silicone really work or just a waste of money ? plus i intend to paint the wall around the alcove of the door and window frame ares with bathroom water resistant paint to prevent damp being absorbed into the wall
Some of the anti-mould silicones do work but if the whole area is covered in mould there is a chance that it will cover the silicone, but it should be easy enough to remove with some mould and mildew remover. Ventilation is the key to preventing the mould in the first place.
Thanks for the comment
These are all moisture cure adhesives. The manufacturers generally recommend spritzing metal with water just before you stick them together. That would let the middle cure up and likely vastly increase the bonding ability.
It worked better on wood because it can draw some moisture from the wood although even that would be helped by some water.
Thanks for the comment
I hope that the company that complained did just as badly in this test! Thanks for all your hard work Chez!
Their product was probably in the middle of the results.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Good test Thanks
Thanks for the comment Michael ;-)
does anyone know any liquid glue for steel that can hold more than 127 lbs? i wanna be able to fix something without having to think that ima break it off cause i seen videos of these that can only hold 30 pounds
Hi, great video! Any suggestion on bonding metal to wood?
Thanks, I have not tested out wood to metal yet but I might do in another video.
The nemesis brand worked well on wood to wood, so that might be worth a try. Failing that the Adiseal is good ;-)Thanks for the comment
Would you be able to do a strength test or some other testing with silicone sealant
I think a strength test would not work well as silicone is not designed for holding, but sealing. You can however use it as a grab adhesive for light weight things and it does work as an adhesive. Perhaps a good test for silicone would be to test out the mould resistance of it!
Thanks for the comment
To me that was a very honest test. However the wood test would have been more satisfactory. The winner had a serious amount in hand over it's nearest rival and no photo finish was required.
Absolutely.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Great video as per usual, thanks for revisiting on someones request! Personally I thought the wood was a better test as well, but you can't please everyone.
Thanks Phil, I also thought the wood was a better test but at least we know now that grab adhesives do not work brilliantly on metal.
Thanks for the comment
Ahh man!Good video!I really would like to know the accurate types of those adhesives!
Great video once again. Were you able to get your hands on PL Premium by the Loctite brand in the UK by and chance? I know I mentioned it once in your previous videos and that adhesive is the go-to product for the pros here in the US so it would be nice if you could compare it to the products available in the UK. Take care.
Thanks, No I was not able to get hold of that one in the UK.
If I ever get chance I'll pick a tube up though ;-)
Thanks for the comment
Ultimate Handyman Amazon has it in the U.K. : www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00JPO2UDC/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1/255-4822446-5399824?pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe&pf_rd_r=62ZFKS3VEMWW5T90Y3AT&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_p=569136327&pf_rd_i=B0002YV81Y if you give me an address I'll be happy to have one sent over to you.
Thanks for the interesting video.
Do you think that a two-part epoxy would have performed better than Serious Stuff?
Yes I would imagine so. If I get chance I'll do some testing of epoxy glues in future.
Thanks for the comment
Thank you. That will be another interesting video.
The kitchen sink tap is lose and I can't reach underneath to tighten it so am thinking of using some glue to keep it from rocking each time we turned the tap on...research took me here...should I try the Serious Stuff or that two part Araldite Epoxy Resin Glue would hold it down better?????
@@mykalgb8643 I'm not sure which one would work best, sorry for the late reply, I have just seen this comment
Thank you for the very thorough test. I can't understand why adiseal would suggest using metal blocks when I'm sure these types of adhesives wouldn't be used on metal. I haven't noticed a comment from adiseal this time? Keep up the good work.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Excellent test, possibly more reliable than your previous tests using wood blocks. It doesn't matter that people wouldn't normally choose a grab adhesive for joining metals.
What a shame you didn't test Pinkgrip, which is good value, and Gripfill which seems to be popular with the builders I've come across.
Thanks Mike, the problem is that PinkGrip and Gripfill are sold in cardboard tubes. In the video I said I had about 12-13 ish test pieces (can't remember without watching the video). When I got to the PinkGrip and Gripfill the tubes had hardened completely and had to be binned. I have just spent another £80 on some other grab adhesives, so its getting expensive testing them all LOL
Thanks for the comment
I wonder, if sanding the surfaces will get a better grip. it is a common practice in knife making to scuff the surface of the mating parts (metal and wood\mikarta\whatever material) for a better epoxy bonding. metal has a sleek surface in its natural state, unlike wood (fibers) or concrete, and that might affect this kind of test...
Possibly, but the adhesive seemed well stuck to each piece of stainless as it was not polished but rather had a grainy like finish.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
what's happened to the Nemesis? Cant find it on sale anywhere anymore....
Not sure, just checked Screwfix and they have Nemesis silicone, decorators caulk and decking stain- but no grab adhesive!
I'm gutted as it is my favourite!
Like what you doing, You are very smart.
Thanks for the comment
good to see some brands put to their words in a test. i would loved to have seen DIPT's own branded "Sumo Grip" as i use this only because they are close to me to get to. i know it is another brand with their name on it but not which it is.
as some others have stated, i would prefer to see the tests done on situations we are most likely to use it in as in fixing new skirting board to plaster or pvcu skirtings to tile etc which would involve a "pulling" tests not pushing.
however, a great demo showing the real truthes under identical situations.
Thanks Rich, I have not heard of Sumo Grip before and after checking ebay it does not look to be widely available!
Thanks for the comment and happy new year ;-)
as in the writing Chez.. DIPT's own branded. HNY to u too m8
Oh, no worries. I hyhagcahny ;-)
Good to know.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Can you try riverrock or stone to stainless steel? Please
I'm afraid I do not have the time to do any more grab adhesive tests for the foreseeable future.
Thanks for the comment 👍
Nice video, I'd like to seem the same test with super and epoxy glues that are commonly available.
I might try that in future, if I get time.
Thanks for the comment
Is gripfill not a grab adhesive not usally included in your videos
I used it in a previous video, but the tube had gone off (along with the Gripfill) as both tubes are cardboard with built in nozzle.
Thanks for the comments ;-)
Love these videos! Theres always one that isn't happy with the test 🙄
Absolutely!
Thanks for the comment ;-)
It must have cost you an arm & a leg to buy all those glues. Interesting test but I am sure some of the companies will not be happy, and will say you did something wrong. You have a happy new year and keep up the videos.
Thanks John, yes I bet I have spent £200+ on grab adhesives to conduct these tests.
At least it helps people to make the right decision instead of following manufacturers claims.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Wow, you can wipe up really quickly!
Can you come and help me clean up my workshop, haha!
Kidding, great video as usual!
LOL, the video footage was 2 hours long when I started to edit it and I got it to less than 15 minutes by cutting out a lot and speeding it up in places ;-)
Thanks for the comment
A clean shop isn't a busy shop!
great efforts, I was surprised how poor the CT1 preformed, its not cheap.
Thanks, many of these grab adhesives are sold at a premium price- which is mainly marketing hype!
Thanks for the comment
Should have tested Sikaflex, Tiger Seal & Grip fill. Would of been an interesting comparison! That Serious stuff out classed them all.
Need more nails is there new name lol
Strange that JB Weld is not in the test. It is probably the most popular adhesive for metals in US.
JB weld is not a grab adhesive, I'm also in the UK
Thanks for the comment 👍
My understanding of adhesives is less is more. You seem to use a lot of adhesive and you didn't clamp down the blocks. The goal is to have the thinnest layer possible between the two metals. Please correct my understanding if I'm wrong.
A fair test would probably need you to use a constant weight to press all of the pieces when gluing and then use a puller to pull the pieces straight out from the surface. That said, the pieces would not need to be that big either.
It was still very interesting to watch how much difference there actually is between products... somehow I predicted that "no more nails" would fail miserably... never thought much of that brand.
Thanks He Ka, The problem with a constant weight for all pieces is that some of the adhesives are thinner than others, if you applied the same weight to each piece some of the adhesive would be forced out completely from between the test pieces.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
I wonder which company was unhappy with the rest and how they feel about their product now?
I don't want to publicly name them, but they will now be aware of this video.
Thanks for the comment
wonder if jb weld would hold up better
Not sure, I have never even heard of it before. Normally I just buy what is available locally or on ebay.
Thanks for the comment
have test with 3M 5200?
No, sorry. I have only tested what was easily available at the time. 3M normally makes very good quality stuff though!
Thanks for the comment 👍
Nice comparison, would have loved to have seen the No Nonsense, Gripfill, and Pink Grip tested here, as well as in your previous tests, as these are much more budget friendly compared to some of these. Could also do a comparison between solvent and solvent-free versions of them to see how much of a difference there is.
I would happily donate a few pennies on something like patreon to help fund further impartial tests.
Thanks Daniel, I try not to go down the Patreon route, but might have to one day (hopefully not soon).
I did try some of those adhesives in my first test but the problem with the PinkGrip and Gripfill is that they come in cardboard tubes with a built in nozzle and so it's almost impossible to re-use them after any period of time as the adhesive goes off once the cartridge is opened, unlike the other grab adhesives which could still be re-used.
I try to avoid solvent free versions as they have given me poor results in the past, but I might do a solvent free test in future ;-)
Thanks for the comment offer to donate ;-)
Ultimate Handyman I certainly understand the reluctance to do so, just thought it would be a way to fund the materials while remaining impartial. Some quick maths says I doubt CZcams adverts will ever cover the cost of the materials for this test, but at the same time I found it very useful, especially seeing how bad some of the bigger names performed.
Totally understand the issue with Pinkgrip and Gripfill going off and not being able to reuse the tubes after though.
Keep up the good work!
Thanks Daniel, Luckily I already had the stainless steel and the grab adhesives were left over from my original test, it's a pity the Pinkgrip and Gripfill had gone off!
Thanks for the comment ;-)
just thinking out loud... timber would absorb the moisture from various grab adhesives where as metal wouldn't. hence why adhesives were still wet underneath some.
Yep, it was not my idea to use the metal. The wood test produced much better results.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Ultimate Handyman same with any substrate. adhesion is better with surfaces that absorb moisture. but too much absorption at a rapid rate can be equally problematic.
Should of tried Solvite! Remember those old adverts where they pasted a man to a board, and flew him around in a helicopter? lol
LOL, I'm old enough to remember those adverts ;-)
Best grab adhesive for cladding in a bathroom
Nemesis from screwfix is my preferred brand as it is one of the cheaper ones ;-)
I'd agree that these adhesives would not be the first choice on stainless steel! I'd go with a two part methacrylate, polyurethane or two part epoxy. You'd also have to solvent wipe (e.g. isopropyl alcohol), abrade and then solvent wipe the stainless again just before applying the adhesive.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Have you ever tried Tec7?
Not yet, but I think I have a tube ready for next time ;-)
Nice, here in Norway it is considered to be the best adhesive to use on multiple surfaces.
Thanks for the info ;-)
WILL YOU DO A TOOL BOX TOUR AGAIN
Hi Ryan, my toolbox is on site I'm afraid for the next few months.
I might however bring home some of my new tools to show them to people. I have bought a few new ones this year for work on site.
Thanks for the comment
THANKS FOR THE REPLY
You are welcome ;-)
Ryan Ward , l
Ph
,
Any test on tec 7 its all the rage here at the mo.
No, but I'll look out for some ;-)
Thanks for the comment
Thanks for the grab test.
You are welcome ;-)
you should reuse those blocks and try other adhesives for metals, like epoxies and such.
I will keep them and can use them for further testing ;-)
Thanks for the comment
we all know the bullshit that comes out of marketing departments i like how you are testing these and we know we get a honest result so thanks for taking the time to do these tests. but for metal i would'nt even think about using grab adhesives the likes of jb weld locktight etc make glue specificaly for metal
Absolutely, it's not something I would ever use on metal either (apart from when being recommended by one of the manufacturers).
Thanks for the comment
Name & shame who contacted you or was it the clear winner
It was not the clear winner, but landed somewhere in the middle. I can't name them as I'm not a kiss and tell type of guy ;-)
Thanks for the comment
I think the best test would have been with MDF as its homogeneous and more likely to go off and more like a real world application.
The stainless steel was suggested by one of the grab adhesive manufacturers.
Thanks for the comment
I think Ultimate Handyman is actually slowed down and that speeded up version is his normal working speed. much fairer test though.
Ha Ha, I can assure you that I'm slow (well I prefer to call it chilled).
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Hmm there's a lot to this, and I suspect the unhappy manufacturer would probably be blaming the wood lamination having weaker areas on your previous test. In suggesting stainless I reckon they meant sticking a timber block to it, then it removes the lamination argument, and gives the adhesives which require a porus surface a sporting chance. I think your efforts have been wasted on this one. Sticking stainless to stainless simply would never happen, and some of those adhesives would never cure.
welll iits only a fairer test if you expect the customer to be gluing stainless together, and i glue far more wood than i do stainless....i hope they at least sent you some free adhesive, i think they tested their adhesive on stainless, where the others had probably better adhesion to porous materials...
They did offer to send some adhesives and even pay for some of their competitors products, but I already had all the adhesives apart from the CT1 which I had to buy again.
Thanks for the comment
a fair, scientific test. where does the novice DIY'er get the more professional products from whilst ensuring they aren't fakes?
Thanks, I normally buy my stuff from Screwfix as they have a large selection.
interesting stuff just goes to show there not all the same.
Absolutely.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Who joins stainless with grab adhesive?
I don't know, but in my original test I glued timber blocks to plywood and a few people were not happy, so one adhesive manufacturer suggested using stainless steel- so I did LOL
Thanks for the comment
Possibly they were disputing the uniformity in that different blocks of wood may have difference in grain therefore adhesion may be affected. Or maybe their adhesive just works better on steel :-)
Some Cinema chains do with the carpet flooring track as well as Hotels for preventetive trip hazards where carpet meets tiles etc.. Its a thin piece of metal that has a "Track" running down its centre where a piece of platic black strip is "Slatted" on top. The sub track has holes through it for securing with screws and raw plugs into the floor beneath as well.
Once had some adhesive it was a light brown glue type of paste and never been able to find it since. It was the strongest I have ever used. Once on anything it was impossible to remove it. I think one guy said he used it to secure a cupboard on a wall and when they took the cupboard down the wall came down with it. Apparently this stuff could glue wood together and it would stay bonded for years even if the wood was thrown into the ocean. I remember getting some on fingers and it took 2 weeks to fully remove it.
Hi Grand Sorry I havent found the name of it yet. It was some time ago when I used it. I wish I new its name, It was the strongest adhesive I have ever used. There were some hinge screws that had come loose on a door, even to this day they are solid and will not budge. I will keep looking for it. Many Thanks.
Try CT1 clear
Apparently, clear grab adhesives are not as good as coloured ones!
I have tried coloured CT1 (white) and compared to clear and clear had done better
Only thing missing was pinkgrip.
I tried pinkgrip in my earlier tests - czcams.com/video/uZxNGQ7t0BU/video.html
Ultimate Handyman ye i watched that one, just thought you would of used it here as well to see how well it did against all the others as you used the same ones from that previous test just without pinkgrip.
Its as if the adhesive dosnt fully cure
Having two non porous surfaces
Yes, most of the adhesives were soft in the middle even after leaving them in a house with the central heating on for a week!
Thanks for the comment ;-)
I don't see why they wouldn't be soft in the middle. What difference does the adhesive in the middle of the pieces of steel make from the inside of the adhesive dispensing tube once the outside edges of the steel piece cures sealing the inside off from the atmosphere? Wood absorbs the moisture so it makes for a much better real world test
CT1 fails yet again, the stuffs crap as an adhesive.
Redo the test with a small amont of adhesive. Way too much adhesive was used and this impeded the curing. Use a fixed weight to sandwich the test samples and set a timer to improve on test controls. I'm willing to bet that less adhesive equals more strength. Just saying.... Cheers mate
Thanks for the comment 👍
if u gonna join steel ud just weld it right ? lol wood and ceramic etc i can understand using adhesive but not on metals
Yes, I would either weld it or bolt it, but this was done at the suggestion of one of the adhesive manufacturers.
Thanks for the comment
Evo Stik went down in my opinion after they named their product with 'shit' in the name. It may be petty but I expect certain standards. Because tradesmen are using it they think it's okay to use profanity?? I swear like most people do...but there's a time and a place. I don't expect to go into Screwfix and have the assistant say to me "Yo mutha f*****, what you want?"
Yes, I agree totally.
Some manufacturers also put "for professional use only" on their products which also annoys me.
Thanks for the comment
so, which one would you recommend to donald trump to hold the wig on with?
I'd go for Nemesis but he might struggle getting it off again ;-)
its all just marketing wank
Yep ;-)
Thanks for the comment
Too much adhesive used.
I look forwards to seeing your video on the subject ;-)
it's safe to say, Unibond adhesive is shit!