first time doing this on my own bike.never ridden in my life before the beginning of june. i overtorqued the oil filter bolts and broke three.. using some different bolts for now until honda ships me a replacement.
Hey mate First of all welcome to the motorcycle world! Glad to hear you got started with it and wish you many adventures with your motorcycle. Sorry to hear about the bolts!! 3of them broke!! That’s crazy. Did you torque them by feeling or used a torque wrench?
One important thing : torque values always for clean dry bolts. This is why, dynamo torqued or not, a lot of people kill the engine threads for oil filter cover by overtorqing.Worst, when tightening bolt on the oil engine thread. 😢 it needs far less torque to keep all in place and without any leak, whatever the bike... you should even, for the fun, go test ride with just hand torqued and see if it leaks or start to unscrew. You will be surprised. So if you want to stay on honda thightening specs, you need to full degrease threads and screws. At the end, as majority of mechanics do, we don t use torque wrench, just hand feeling for this reason😮
Thanks for your video!👍👍 But I still have a question for you. Did you have the 1000km service with oil change done at the dealer? To my knowledge, when the CRF300L is delivered there is a partially synthetic running-in oil from Honda in the engine. I also want to use the Motul 7100 10W 30W, but before I have reached the 1000km break-in period, the engine should last longer, but the change intervals should be shortened. Can you tell me something about that too? Thank you!
Hi mate, Yes, I have done the first oil change at the dealer just to keep the first year warranty. I personally like to do that as a just in case measure. If there is any mechanical engine problem due to manufacturing, it’s more likely to happen in the first year. After that, I step out of the dealer and do everything by myself.
I have heard rumours that the first oil put by Honda is "different".. however I don't know the details. The story goes that this first oil is different to assist with the intial breaking of the engine and thedealer should inspect it differently.. to be honest I have my doubts. I do work with much larger engines on my day to the job and there is no such thing as a break-in oil for our engines. Ride safe!
O have watched you till Promoting Motul. Here in Romania Motul is the worst oil you can put in your bike. FZ6 engines for exemple from Yamaha cannot change gears with Motul. Only one exemple. My opinion is that you have to use original Oil. Good luck!
Hi Adam, As you pointed out that’s not the oil drain bolt. It’s not supposed to be taken out and doesn’t have a crush washer for sealing. Assuming you can reinstall the bolt, didn’t strip a thread and there is no oil leaking. You’re good to go. Don’t worry about it. The oil drain bolt is placed in a location to ensure that most of the oil can be drained. Maybe you still have some old oil inside but wouldn’t put at risk your motorcycle. However, if you search on google you will find people who have stripped the thread if this bold on the engine case. If that happens then it will be a pain in the ass to fix. Do not over tighten this bolt! Unfortunately I don’t know the torque spec for it. But the engine case is made of aluminium. That’s the main reason why you have the other bolt which uses a crush washer.
Hi mate I know that specially with newer Honda Motorcycles some riders are using 10w40 instead of the specified 10w30. Will it damage your engine? *Probably* not. With that said, my recommendation is to stick with what the manufacturer has specified. So 10w30 is the way to go ;)
Thanks for sharing! Hadn’t heard yet about that. I’m in the alps in Austria. Also gets pretty cold in here but so far haven’t heard that from the local dealers. Do you know if this is a recommendation from Honda or something that the local dealers adopted? To my understanding, once the engine starts running and reaches its normal operating temperature, the oil temperature is approximately the same in Canada or in California. The main difference is how long it takes to reach normal operating temperature and how “hard” the radiator has to work and how much the thermostatic valve opens. The engine cooling system is design to keep the oil temperature between 90-100 degrees Celsius. If you go too much above that you will get an engine warning. A running engine, to what I have seen so far, will always reach 90 degrees Celsius. Is just a matter of time.
My dealer said it was from Honda and I read it from other people as well on Fb Crf group thats what their Honda dealer said. Do they somehow make more profit out of it I'm not sure since it's the same price to my knowledge. When I first bought the bike in 2022 I bought oil as well and was surprise they gave me 10w40 instead 10w30 as stated in the manual. I really don't think it's a big deal and maybe next year I'll try Castrol Actevo 10w40 @@RoiaMoto
Thanks for sharing! I hand't heard about it so far. I personally don't think that running on 10w30 or 10w40 would have a measurable impact on the longevity of the engine for most users. My day job is for a large engine manufacturer for power generation. It's a different game of course because we are dealing with engines that are humongous. Each cylinder being 1 to 6 litres in size and up to 24 cylinders in one engine. When we are defining the oil viscosity, we are mostly concerned with the parts tolerance and not with average ambient temperature. If we install an engine in Siberia of South Africa the oil viscosity is the same because under normal operating conditions, once engine reaches its normal operating temperature, the oil temperature will be the same. Generally speaking my approach is to sticky to the specified manufacturer's oil viscosity listed in the manual but I will always choose 100% synthetic over semi-synthetic. For modern engines I no longer considerer mineral oil.
Hi Dorval This red oil signature of the Motul fully synthetic line. Fully synthetic oils give the manufacturers the liberty to choose the colour of the oil and some manufacturers use that to differentiate themselves. If you go for a semisynthetic of mineral oil, then the colour is the “typical” yellowish/brownish.
Here is how I carry my tools: www.roiamoto.com/toolroll
Thanks for checking it out! Would love to hear your feedback!
Excellent step by step. Very concise and the part numbers greatly appreciated.
Thanks for the comment, Froboz! Glad to hear the video was useful.
Cheers
Great job.
I’ll definitely check out your other videos.
Love my ‘21 300L.
Thanks, Luke!!
The goal is create a complete series of maintenance videos for the CRF300L!
Thanks. Very helpful video.
Glad it was helpful!
I really enjoy ur videos, so informative, well done. 😀
Thanks a lot, Brian! Very happy to hear that!
Have you also got a CRF300L?
first time doing this on my own bike.never ridden in my life before the beginning of june.
i overtorqued the oil filter bolts and broke three.. using some different bolts for now until honda ships me a replacement.
Hey mate
First of all welcome to the motorcycle world! Glad to hear you got started with it and wish you many adventures with your motorcycle.
Sorry to hear about the bolts!! 3of them broke!! That’s crazy.
Did you torque them by feeling or used a torque wrench?
Just changed my oil. First time using a measuring cup like yours. For the first time ever I haven't overfilled my oil. !
Hi Alex,
Thanks for the comment as always!
Cheers mate and safe riding
Great vid. Thanks
Glad you enjoyed it
Good job!
Thank you! Cheers!
One important thing : torque values always for clean dry bolts. This is why, dynamo torqued or not, a lot of people kill the engine threads for oil filter cover by overtorqing.Worst, when tightening bolt on the oil engine thread. 😢 it needs far less torque to keep all in place and without any leak, whatever the bike... you should even, for the fun, go test ride with just hand torqued and see if it leaks or start to unscrew. You will be surprised. So if you want to stay on honda thightening specs, you need to full degrease threads and screws. At the end, as majority of mechanics do, we don t use torque wrench, just hand feeling for this reason😮
Great tip!! Thanks for sharing that!
Thanks so much for leaving this comment. You saved somebody (possibly me) a lot of money and stress.
Yea bro I got nowhere near 9nm and it felt too tight like it was about to strip
I am a new follower of your channel.
Greetings from Türkiye 😊
Welcome to the channel!!
🇹🇷 ❤️
Thank you!
Glad to hear the video was helpful!
Thank you sir.
Most welcome
Good video 👍
Thanks a lot, Eric!
before drain old oil check if engine oil cap can be removed. else u will be in tricky situation
Thanks for the hint! It has never happened with me but it’s a good practice! I’ll definitely do like you suggest in the future.
Cheers
Thanks for your video!👍👍
But I still have a question for you.
Did you have the 1000km service with oil change done at the dealer? To my knowledge, when the CRF300L is delivered there is a partially synthetic running-in oil from Honda in the engine. I also want to use the Motul 7100 10W 30W, but before I have reached the 1000km break-in period, the engine should last longer, but the change intervals should be shortened. Can you tell me something about that too?
Thank you!
Hi mate,
Yes, I have done the first oil change at the dealer just to keep the first year warranty.
I personally like to do that as a just in case measure. If there is any mechanical engine problem due to manufacturing, it’s more likely to happen in the first year.
After that, I step out of the dealer and do everything by myself.
I have heard rumours that the first oil put by Honda is "different".. however I don't know the details.
The story goes that this first oil is different to assist with the intial breaking of the engine and thedealer should inspect it differently.. to be honest I have my doubts. I do work with much larger engines on my day to the job and there is no such thing as a break-in oil for our engines.
Ride safe!
O have watched you till Promoting Motul. Here in Romania Motul is the worst oil you can put in your bike. FZ6 engines for exemple from Yamaha cannot change gears with Motul. Only one exemple. My opinion is that you have to use original Oil. Good luck!
Ohh!! 😦 had no idea about that!
I’m originally from Brazil and in it Motul is considered the best oil to get 😂😂.
Thanks for sharing your experience!
I highly doubt that. There’s a guy on YT with a CRF450L with over 20,000 miles running Motul 7100 and 300V with 0 issues.
Hi . Not Hi-Flo 112 filter ?
I've emailed Hiflo directly and they advised me to use HF103.
Please I drained the wrong bolt last change but all my oil leaked out.I can't find anywhere what the Torx bolt is for
Hi Adam,
Did you unscrew the torx bolt or the hex bolt?
I mentioned in the video the 2 bolts. Which one did you use to drain the oil?
Hi Adam,
As you pointed out that’s not the oil drain bolt. It’s not supposed to be taken out and doesn’t have a crush washer for sealing.
Assuming you can reinstall the bolt, didn’t strip a thread and there is no oil leaking. You’re good to go. Don’t worry about it.
The oil drain bolt is placed in a location to ensure that most of the oil can be drained. Maybe you still have some old oil inside but wouldn’t put at risk your motorcycle.
However, if you search on google you will find people who have stripped the thread if this bold on the engine case. If that happens then it will be a pain in the ass to fix.
Do not over tighten this bolt! Unfortunately I don’t know the torque spec for it. But the engine case is made of aluminium. That’s the main reason why you have the other bolt which uses a crush washer.
can i use 10w 40
Hi mate
I know that specially with newer Honda Motorcycles some riders are using 10w40 instead of the specified 10w30. Will it damage your engine? *Probably* not. With that said, my recommendation is to stick with what the manufacturer has specified. So 10w30 is the way to go ;)
Honda dealers in Canada now recommend 10w40, higher viscosity retaining more thickness as temperature rise @@RoiaMoto
Thanks for sharing! Hadn’t heard yet about that.
I’m in the alps in Austria. Also gets pretty cold in here but so far haven’t heard that from the local dealers.
Do you know if this is a recommendation from Honda or something that the local dealers adopted?
To my understanding, once the engine starts running and reaches its normal operating temperature, the oil temperature is approximately the same in Canada or in California.
The main difference is how long it takes to reach normal operating temperature and how “hard” the radiator has to work and how much the thermostatic valve opens.
The engine cooling system is design to keep the oil temperature between 90-100 degrees Celsius. If you go too much above that you will get an engine warning.
A running engine, to what I have seen so far, will always reach 90 degrees Celsius. Is just a matter of time.
My dealer said it was from Honda and I read it from other people as well on Fb Crf group thats what their Honda dealer said. Do they somehow make more profit out of it I'm not sure since it's the same price to my knowledge. When I first bought the bike in 2022 I bought oil as well and was surprise they gave me 10w40 instead 10w30 as stated in the manual. I really don't think it's a big deal and maybe next year I'll try Castrol Actevo 10w40 @@RoiaMoto
Thanks for sharing! I hand't heard about it so far. I personally don't think that running on 10w30 or 10w40 would have a measurable impact on the longevity of the engine for most users.
My day job is for a large engine manufacturer for power generation. It's a different game of course because we are dealing with engines that are humongous. Each cylinder being 1 to 6 litres in size and up to 24 cylinders in one engine.
When we are defining the oil viscosity, we are mostly concerned with the parts tolerance and not with average ambient temperature.
If we install an engine in Siberia of South Africa the oil viscosity is the same because under normal operating conditions, once engine reaches its normal operating temperature, the oil temperature will be the same.
Generally speaking my approach is to sticky to the specified manufacturer's oil viscosity listed in the manual but I will always choose 100% synthetic over semi-synthetic. For modern engines I no longer considerer mineral oil.
the oil is red in color..not yellow lie auto oil..
Hi Dorval
This red oil signature of the Motul fully synthetic line.
Fully synthetic oils give the manufacturers the liberty to choose the colour of the oil and some manufacturers use that to differentiate themselves.
If you go for a semisynthetic of mineral oil, then the colour is the “typical” yellowish/brownish.