The Power of Electrolysis | How To Transform Rusty Tools!
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- čas přidán 21. 05. 2024
- There are many ways to remove rust from metal, but this shocking method is my favourite! In this episode, I show you how you can transform your rust-ridden objects into shiny showpieces, using the power of electricity! SAFETY NOTICE: Use in a well-ventilated space or wear a mask, as the bubbles can be hazardous!
If you enjoy the video, please leave a like, and if you would like to see the rest of my journey and more, subscribe to my channel! And don't forget that bell button, if you want to receive notifications.
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Instagram - / dominicchinea
Filmed & edited by Dan Cross: / djcross87 - Jak na to + styl
![Why Did They Stop Making These? [Restoration]](/img/n.gif)
Good video showing the practicalities of doing this. However, although this is being referred to as electrolysis, it isn't using the electrolysis to transfer rust to the anode in the way anodising works. What is actually happening is that the water is being separated into oxygen at the anode and hydrogen at the cathode. The oxygen is highly reactive with the metal anode and rusts it. However, at the cathode the hydrogen doesn't react but effectively blows the rust off the surface, sand blasting at atomic level. The result is that the rust on the rusty item ends up in the water, which is why it goes brown. There is no transfer of the rust to the anode. In fact, there ends up being more rust as there is now the rust on the anode and the rust from the item in the water. The anodes don't even need to be sacrificial for this to work, you can use stainless steel and it will still work, although some stainless steel will still rust under these conditions.
This also works as a paint stripper. I use this to remove the paint from metal items. They don't need to be iron, so long as they conduct. It's best to lightly scratch the paint surface if possible but it works fine with old Dinky cars, etc. and works out much cheaper than using paint stripper, plus it's less toxic or harmful, both to yourself and the environment.
I also have an easy way of remembering which way to connect: +ve to "adding rust" -ve to "subtracting rust".
Hey Alien, I have an aluminum powder coated black fishing reel spool that's corroded from salt water, I've tried methelene chloride stripper with no results. I want to remove all the paint without damaging the spool so I can powder coat it again, think this method is worth a try????
@@pennyan2057 I'd be interested to try this too. One Mr McBeardy commented on this video that he used borax instead of washing soda. I'd be interested to see if dilute borax might be gentler on alloy in this application as it has a bit lower pH
Hmm... perhaps no, from what I can find the opposite might be true. At least, from some articles I have been reading it could be very dependent on temperature, current density and borate concentration. Too involved for a casual workshop like mine anyway.
😊
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There are two types of rust. The first step of the rusting process produces Magnetite (Fe304), which is tightly adherent to the iron and is black in color. If you leave it longer, you get red rust (Fe2O3), or hematite. Red rust takes up more space than the iron it replaces, so it flakes off.
The electrolysis process causes the red rust to detach from the underlying metal because of the bubbling. The black rust that underlies it actually is reduced back to metallic iron by the current. The density of the resultant iron is maximized by using a low voltage 2-3 volts over a long period of time, but the 12V method also works pretty well.
To Marshall Jones:
Thanks for the good info. I've got a microwave oven transformer I've rewrapped that produces 2.8VAC. Will AC voltage work for this and what amperage suggested as starting point? I adjust current with multiple halogen bulbs in parallel to MOT source. Thank you, Marshall Jones
@@anthonykrusel349 The process is polarity sensitive - watch around 5:00 carefully and you will see that you need DC (also, the anodes are sacrificial, so you never want your part to be the anode).
I can certainly endorse what @Marshal Jones said, a lower voltage is a much better idea - I use a benchtop power supply set to around -4V- *Edit:* 6V and also limit the current to keep the rate of gas evolution down (one thing Dom failed to mention was the gas, you need to do this in a well ventilated space because it is going to produce free hydrogen and oxygen gas).
@@anthonykrusel349 Has to be DC....
@@anthonykrusel349 It needs to be DC, You could buy a welding rectifier on Ebay Etc and produce DC through that.
So a 6v battery charger (used for old motorcycle batteries and very old cars) would work better than the 12v type over a long period?
Nice technique. But the fizzing… that’s hydrogen- and oxygen-gas from splitting the water molecules. Make sure you ventilate! Leaving it “for a couple of hours” in a closed space can build up something you do not want.
Boem, but the rust is away that for sure 😮
So don’t run the wood stove when doing this.
You can separate the anode and cathode to capture the hydrogen coming off of the cathode, and capture the oxygen coming off of the anode.
Oxygen plus hydrogen and a tiny spark, you have created a bomb.
Important point for Sure!!
You can also do this inside-out. I used this method to remove the rust from the inside of a motorcycle gas tank. Negative to the bare metal of the tank, positive to a large bolt suspended inside the tank full of sodium carbonate solution.
Now that’s a brilliant idea! Thank you for sharing!
Brilliant idea !
thats slick
@1978ajax long long ago when I was a nurse I had a patient with burns to 30% of his body due to ignorance. This apprentice asked his boss what to do about “the stuff in the tank” & the boss said “don’t worry, it’ll be ok”. And so the apprentice started welding the fuel tank.
@@MadMax-bq6pg if you're filling the tank with electrolyte and water, there wouldn't be explosive vapors in there. Yes, it's sad when people do amazingly stupid things and get hurt. Cleaning a tank via electrolysis wouldn't be this story though.
I'm from the USA and at 70yrs cant tell you how much I appreciate this video. Although most of my tools are kept spotless, I, like you go to swap meets and garage sales and have picked up some great older tools and this will help restore them. Keep up the great work.
I am seventy as well, yesterday I stepped into my shop and for a second. I wasn’t sure if I was in an antique barn or my workshop. Lots of my tools are 50 years old.
Just use white vinegar, and a wire brush, 24 hrs in vinegar and it's good as new
70yr old stop hoarding tools you’ll never use. Save some for the rest of us bro!
I see a lot of old guys that just have to buy up everything before anyone else at yard sales. Knowing they will never use it
@mdw hello from UK👍
@@carbonEYE007That's because we get up earlier then you kids.
I would warn against using just any kind of steel for the sacrificial anode(s). If you use a Stainless or relatively high Chromium content steel, it will make your leftover water very poisonous. Not something you should then pour down the drain! So, only use mild steel and similar for your anodes.
Thank you for the heads up!
You could use a carbon rod such as used in air arc weld removal. Carbon keeps the water much cleaner than a steel anode.
Baking Soda can sometimes neutralise the used solution
@@johnbrennan7175 I'm sure it can (it certainly works on acids) but in the case of stainless steel anodes, whatever you end up with will still have the chromium in it.
@@ajayray4408 He's not using stainless steel in this video, so the warning is a little zealous.
Hello Dom
It might be worth mentioning that the gases bubbling off the electrodes are oxygen and hydrogen, so ventilation is important to avoid any danger of explosion.
I was thinking DUDE you don't want to just leave that unsupervised. WTH putting hands into the liquid is a safety no!no! too! He should be using plastic tongs!
Or capture the O2 and H for use with HHO welding? Maybe not but it does need dealing with if this is not done outside.
In this small application the gases will be too dilute to cause an explosion.
@@zacharysmith5947 Good gloves are fine.
This is noted in the comments below the video i.e. "SAFETY NOTICE: Use in a well-ventilated space or wear a mask, as the bubbles can be hazardous! "
Someone not scared to show practical stuff - well done Dom!
Hello Dom, Captain Cautious here! Electrolysis is a fantastic way to clean more "solid" items but should be used with caution on "edge" tools such as saws and chisels as Hydrogen Embrittlement may occur. Other than that water and electricity.........hours fun for all the family! Cheers Simon
Nice one thank you Simon, appreciate the warning!
Good point. Also applies to springs, which can become liable to snap. Google Hydrogen Embrittlement for more information, including heat treatment to cure problem.
You can bake the hydrogen out of steel. Or just give it time.
Hi Dom. Just discovered your channel today. Loved your work on TRS and always admire you, Steve and Will specifically (though the rest of the team are also incredible). I love the honesty you present when you approach an problem. Love to watch you work and will devour your postings on here!
Hi Dom, I think it would be worth mentioning that during this type of electrolysis, the electrolyte will release hydrogen gases...this could be dangerous in a confined environment...so a well ventilated room is indeed necessary...
One side makes hydrogen the other side makes oxygen both go boomy boom
I've used electrolysis many times. Dom's vid is good. I've often done a pile of things. Don't even have to connect wires directly to all the parts, as long as they are touching each other, it works. (better of course to connect wires). Also, as to only a few hours, depends on how rusty the items are. I've occasionally needed to leave the product in for a week. No big deal. Does a stunning job. NO elbow grease required. Leaves the finished product sort of "black". Why? Cause the hard to remove red rust, (ferrous oxide) is replaced with ferric oxide, (black rust). Black Ferric oxide is fairly easily washed off, leaving a clean surface.
sometimes you have a BIG item. Easy to build a wooden frame, lined with plywood, then line that with polyethylene sheeting. You can put in a large free standing machine that way. As Dom said, don't use a fancy charge controller. Some of those don't recognize what you are trying to do, and don't "see" a battery, so won't work. You can trick those by putting a battery inline too, so that it thinks there is a battery that needs charging though.
I have been using electrolysis for a number of years. It is a permanent part of the tool restoration business here at Old Sneelock's Workshop.
I use to be in charge of repairs in an aluminum anodizing shop. I replaced the expensive stainless steel tanks with plastic lined steel.
When I retired and started restoring tools I used large wooden boxes lined with plastic sheeting for electrolysis. You can put very large pieces in a wooden crate and it is inexpensive to make any size you need.
Thanks! That is priceless info! Repost it under someone elses reply-laden comment, so more people see it!
I have been faithfully watching your endeavours in the REPAIR SHOP and today I stumbled on your CZcams site. From now on I shall double the pleasure of watching the wonders you make. I hope you don't stop showing us what you make.
Exactly the same happened to me. I did wonder what these guys do apart from the Repair Shop
same here
Thanks you so much for sharing your thoughts, knowledge and experience with us.👍✌️🤗 You really are a special chap!!
Hi Dom ,great video never miss an episode of the Repair shop so pleased to have found you on CZcams keep up the great work,thanks
Thanks Dom, a great explanation of the process. Can't wait to try it out on a few bits.
In an age that seems to be losing the ability to "make good" otherwise usable tools, it is refreshing to see the art is still alive and kicking.
Thank you Sir .
Great Dom! Really enjoy your videos and learn something every time!!
Great vid Dominic! I often use electrolysis when removing rust on the motorcycles i restore. I use Borax in place of sodium carbonate, find that it works extremely well in cold water. cheers from Aussieland 🤙🍻
Interesting, I've never tried borax. I imagine would also do the job for removing unwanted coatings from alloy parts with out eating into them. I've been reading around the net a bit but I'm beginning to suspect that it might be very sensitive to current density and borate concentrations. I don't suppose you might have tried that by any chance?
There are many ways to skin a cat in regards to getting rust off of an item. A hammer wasn't the best example in my opinion for two reasons. The first reason is that hammer was usable as a hammer regardless of rust, the only issue would be if you were worried about the surface marks it could leave and you wanted to make sure the face didn't have pitting. The second reason is that the item is easy to use other methods on, such as the wire wheel. Where this process shines is in complex shapes where a wire wheel cant get into, or areas that are seized with rust and something like an acid bath would not penetrate deep enough without first damaging other areas of the item being cleaned. What I see is a bunch of comments completely discounting the process because there is a different method available. And while I do agree if you were going to use a wire wheel on it... I would have started there and maybe bypassed the whole process, but the video is about the method used and how to do it, not necessarily stating its the best option for what you used it on. Someone else in the comments stated they used it to clean our gas tanks from the inside out, that is brilliant, and its a good example of the perfect use for this technique because trying that with a wire wheel would be ill advised. Long windedness aside, great video!
Thanks for explaining that Dom. Whenever I’ve seen this done, I’ve never understood it !!! Until now....
Dom you're a legend mate. I love the Repair Shop and can only stand back in amazement at the skill and talents you and the team have. Keep up the great work and thanks.
Oh Yes you little beauty, you have a channel! I'm in! love you on the Repair shop.
Ah the wonder of science. Great tutorial Dom as usual.
Hi dom,great to see you again,as i always watch the repair shop,i have never thought of using electrolysis,as i normally just use apple cider vinegar,i will certainly be looking to use this method for all my future rust removal,great tutorial dom,keep up the awesome work that you do on the repair workshop,you guys have an incredible amount of talents,stay safe my friend.
You actually are using electrolysis with apple cider vinegar. Here, you are on steroids! It should do a better job and go faster.
Love watching Dom. Great little channel.
Loving these videos you're doing, Dom.
Wow, I am impressed. This has popped into my feed at the most opportune time as I need to try this on some motor cycle parts from a recently acquired bike. Subbed.
Entertaining and so informative. Coming from Sheffield, a City that excels in the manufacture of quality tools, I appreciate how important it is to renovate and re-purpose tools such as these. As opposed to just buying substandard cheap rubbish and discarding them after little use. I just came across your presentations to-day, looking forward to seeing many more. Thanks for posting.
Thank You so much for a good educational video. I have a lot rusty tools to practice with🙂
In Denmark some artists make sculptures in some kind of wax, and paint it with, I think cuprium sulphat. The they make an electrolyt bath(?) of some kind and have some sacrificial cuprium, that Will, by electricity be moved trough The electrolyt medium and shape solid at The outside of The model. In Denmark The artist Galschioett is doing it, for years and has maked large scales models that way. As example a model of The godess of liberty in more than six foot tall. They have a big tank ive been told.
Can You please show in a small scale how to do, and what needed to perform this proces? I think this proces Can be very usefull to learn and practice and maybe be used to do an surface non corrosive with other materiales. Like crome. (very poisones don't Even think of it)
You asked for challenges🇩🇰🇩🇰🇩🇰✌️😉👍🏾 thank You on before hand. 🖐️
Nice one Dom, great to salvage old tools and keep them going for another few decades.
Hi Dom, I've just discovered this channel and really enjoyed the easy and understandable way of explaining to the layman. I liked the fact that you used everyday objects that many will have lying around. You asked about other suggestions. Personally, I'd love to see videos on different types of electroplating.
WoW already been looking around my workshop for old stuff to try... Cheers matey.
Good luck!
Always enjoy watching Dom on Repair Shop so to find he has a YT channel is great news.
Plus1 on that. Hopefully Wills got one too
Thanks, I couldn't remember where I knew him from!
Hey! I've watched your stuff for a long time on The Repair Shop and ... there you were on my YT suggested list! So happy to subscribe and look forward to more content!
Kudos to you, a very practical demonstration of the technique.
Having checked my chemistry, the rust is being reduced to iron, but as the rust flakes are no longer well attached to the base metal, the rust becomes something like iron filings. That's the grey residue that's left behind.
Another Repair Shop fan, and I deeply, deeply admire your signwriting skills. My hand was never steady enough.
That's amazing!
Thank you Dom.
Best tutorial for electrolysis on CZcams. Explained very well.
Hey Dom! Thanks for the informative and useful video! We've watched you many times on one of our favorite NF shows - The Repair Shop. We absolutely love that show, and the idea that things aren't "Junk" just bc they're old, or broken. We love antiques, and the words repair and restoration need to become more a part of our vocabulary again. Thanks again!
Top Tip, I added a small fish tank heater to my setup to keep the water warm. I also made a box big enough for the rear subframe of my slk, lined it with a fish pond liner, worked a treat. Love this rust removal process.
Watched the full video and wasn't disappointed. :)
Good stuff Dom. I have used this method to de-rust the awkwardly shaped metal heater body of my Mk2 Cortina with great effect. One word of warning though is to only use electrolysis in a well ventilated space as the gas given off at the cathode is hydrogen.
(Hydrogen gas is not toxic, but it is very, very flammable.)
For those unsure
Sodium carbonate is a relatively basic salt, where "basic" is the chemical opposite of acidic. It has the formula Na2CO3 and goes by the colloquial names "washing soda, soda ash, and soda crystals”.
With the chemical formula NaHCO3, sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) is structurally very similar to sodium carbonate. It's much less caustic, however, and is only a very mild base. It has many common household applications, including as a cleaning agent and as a leavening agent in baked goods. You can also ingest sodium bicarbonate in water as a mild home remedy for acid stomach; it neutralizes stomach acid, relieving symptoms of heartburn and producing the harmless compounds carbon dioxide and water.
Agreed. Looking forward to many more episodes!. Thanks Dom!
Awesome, thank you!
In North America, sodium carbonate is sold as washing soda and it usually is found in stores as an Arm & Hammer product.
@@alexandrevaliquette1941 Nope: sodium bicarbonate is baking soda, sodium carbonate is washing soda, both sold by Arm & Hammer, orange box and yellow box respectively. Google it
@@duffman6675 This is used for Tie Dye, which I do a lot of, and I checked the box I've got - Carbonate it is! Also sold for pool PH changes but is easiest to find as washing soda - Wally World has it dirt cheap :)
@@duffman6675 Sorry folks, I did not know A&H sold sodium carbonate. I only saw bicarbonate in the grocery store here in Montreal. Thanks.
30 mules
@@tomo4635 30 Mules is Borax. unless somebody else tell me that 30 Mules are also packaging sodium carbonate!
Thanks dom, now I know what to do on my next day off 👍
I've used this method s lot & it never gets old! It's an amazing technique. What looks like hopelessly rusty metal comes out looking better than you could ever get using old fashioned wire brushing & hours of work.
As you could see on the file, it reveals lettering that could easily be lost using abrasive methods.
One thing, the older the better when it comes to battery chargers. You don't want any fancy modern components in there. Just a basic, old fashioned charger.
I used old, sheet steel computer case covers for my sacrificial terminal. Laying it over the bottom of the tub & then suspended the items I was cleaning above it. That was all the items were close to the metal as it covered the whole bottom of my plastic container. If the computer case cover is painted or powder coated on one side then but that side to the bottom.
Brilliant Dom, you have a good basic layman's way of explaining things, many thanks, works like a dream.
Can you then use that set up to zinc plate the items with the terminals reversed and some zinc as the sacrificial bit.
Brilliant video. Recently started blacksmithing and bought some old tools to get up and running and this looks like the ultimate way to restore them to their former condition. Thanks to all who have highlighted dangers from poor ventilation. I would add the importance of switching off power BEFORE disconnecting any components as even a small spark could ignite that oxy/hydrogen mix. The process is similar to charging a car battery and I have had to give first aid to someone who removed lead with power on and the spark blew up the battery. (almost blinded him) Careful !!!
Thoroughly enjoyed this very satisfying video, thank you. It's great to see something being restored rather than thrown away only to buy another! I can't wait to have a go myself.
I’ve seen you on The Repair Shop - your work is amazing! Subscribed and liked!
Nice one!
Very informative and interesting video Dom. Would you ever consider doing a video explaining or offering a beginners guide to welding? Loving your channel mate.
I will do this next!
@@DominicChineas Awesome. Can’t wait
yes I’d love that too!
Hi Dominic we have come to know you though "The Repair Shop" broadcast on Choice TV in New Zealand. My daughter and I love the show and what the repair shop does to
help people with their life long treasures. Thank you foe what you do.
Hi! Thanks so much for the message.. I hope your enjoying the show out there
@@DominicChineas We also love the show here in New Zealand. And now I have stumbled upon your channel here on YT. Oh happy days!
Another NZ "Repair Shop" viewer checks in. A few years back I bought a basic battery charger for this very purpose and can vouch that it works a treat.
For smaller one-off jobs like, say an old screwdriver, simply immersing in vinegar for 24 hrs works pretty well too.
Such a down to earth way of presenting. Was an absolute pleasure watching AND then doing it the very same day... my tools from a recent swop shop are now beautiful and ready for use Thank you!!!...
You just got a new subscriber!!!!
Cool, Dom. Nice save!
Dom - a possible task if you so choose to take it up - electroplating. Sort of the opposite of removing the rust and quite often a useful tool in the box for restoration projects.
- Joe - in the US
Nice idea!! Ok I’ll look into it, it will need some special equipment, it if your up for it I will try make it happen!
Electroplating is exactly what he is doing in this video, no need to do a separate one!
As others have said always enjoy your enthusiasm with whatever you do on The Repair Shop and really glad to have found your CZcams Chanel - many thanks for passing on your experience in a simple manner. 👍🏻👍🏻 😜😂
Brilliant Dom. Thanks for the full demo
Brilliant! Loved your work on Repair Shop and love this, subscribed immediately.
Awesome, thank you!
Brilliant job. Marvellous.
Brilliant and brilliant!
I’ve been waiting over a year for the carboots to start up again so I can get some rusty vintage tools to restore. Now I’ve got another method to add to the process. Thanks Dom.
Ill be there at the bootsales as soon as they open!! Ill try to leave you some tools I promise haha
@@DominicChineas haha thanks I guess ☺️
Hi Dom
Love all your work especially on the repair shop.
Years ago I knew a bloke in my town that cleared old tools, nuts, bolt, ect. Cleaned them up and sold them, he eventually bought a shop and it became the best hardware shop in town, recycling is nothing new. 👍
I've watched many of these electrolysis video and this one is very good. The only thing I would add is that in addition to saying that the battery charger should be a simple one; you might say it should not be a smart battery with circuitry that detects weather a battery is bad.
This is true.. thats what I meant when i said bog standard.. just your basic average charger. it wont work with a smart one.
Definitely don't want to be too smart with any of this. I thought the presenter tried to make the point to use a "bog standard charger" in the video. But I'm sure there's folks that have no idea what that means. No one likes to weather a bad battery either. Whether or not we have a choice sometimes is not the case though. Synonyms. Ya just gotta hate them. Or is it spell checkers that can't take context into account?
Nice one Dom, very useful information, deffo gonna give this a try 👍😎
I think you’ll be impressed!
Restoring rusted parts using electrolysis or chemical baths (not covered in this video) also somewhat restores the smoothness of the surfaces. The rust is like a minute shrub that grows from a tiny scratch or pit and builds itself up while doing very little surface damage to the item. So not only does the tool end up looking better but often functionality is restored too. For example rusty nuts and bolts can once again be used for their purpose with the need to machine the surfaces. I have a small tub expressly for chemical soaking similar to electrolysis that eats away the rust (iron oxide) leaving a black carbon residue that a gentle brush scrub under water removes. Its a great addition to your home workshop to have something like this permanently on a shelf ready to go giving you a way to save those fiddly fixtures that you want to keep original on a project (or are impossible to replace with modern alternatives). A chemical bath that isnt corrosive or fume toxic (like an acid bath) will just keep in a plastic tub for years and years if it has a lockdown lid. Likewise an electrolysis bath you can make in a suitable sized tub to fit then inside a larger one with lockdown lid so it doesnt evaporate away and you can have at the ready always with a single cable out to power source. A simple rust removal solution is just invaluable for every restoration workshop. Just ensure you dont leave items in them for longer than overnight without taking them out, brushing and rinsing in water to check. The longer you leave them the more chance you have of the processes damaging. So leave, check by cleaning the carbon off under running water then dry to check progress of rust removal, repeat as many times as you need to get rid of the rust. Over time and use you get to be able to guess how effective the result will be and how long it might take. You may be able to use this as a bit of a local home business and it requires very little starting costs or running costs. Use the waiting time to learn how to sharpen garden tools and lawnmower blades which will go well with rust removal service for restring saws, axes, shovel etc. Get your eletrolysis terminals (positive/negative) properly sorted by testing with rusty nails first, some small electronics power packs can be confusing as to which wire the positive is in and which is negative. So always test first with rusty nails when building your own setup, big or small. Remember this is DC electricity NOT AC.
Nice one Dom, great tutorial. I'm going to start today.
Excellent video Dom, I will certainly have a go at it. Kind regards, Richard.
Thanks Richard! Glad to hear it, I hope it works well for you
should be noted that the fizzing is generating some tiny amound of hydrogen, which isnt that big of a deal in a good sized shop space
Came across this by accident. Absolutely Wonderful. Many Thanks, Stay Safe & God Bless
Dom, your cheerful (excited) personality sold me. I subscribed! BTW.. That 'is' a nice hammer! I think I could actually feel that nice wood handle in my hand!
Thank you!! Glad to have you with us
Great video Dominic, old tools are always worth restoring because they were so well made compared to what is available these days 😉
I remember using this same process 70 years ago. Isn't it strange how reinvention takes place at regular intervals!
Yep, we used the same process but in my case it was 60 years ago. We also used many other different processes using chemicals that would be strictly illegal today.
We used to heat rock Sulfur in an open pan over an open flame until it liquified and use it as a glue/gap filler to fix steel shafts into wooden rollers.
We also had an open molten cyanide hardening bath to give a hard surface to steel components and for many years we also had an open Tricoethylene degreasing tank the operator of which was always seriously affected by the fumes by lunchtime. In our ignorance we assumed that he was just a secret drinker combined with being a bit crackers anyway.
Great video Dominic. Very practical. Hope to try this out myself. Thank you for the inspiration.
Nice one Dom thanks for the tip good to see you got a little CZcams thing going on 👍
Fascinating watching this, clearing my late fathers tools, quite a lot are going to Africa via a charity but my husband keeps telling me that wooden handled tools no longer H & S approved ☹️, but they feel so much nicer and more tactile so I’ve made him keep some old favourites, like the screwdriver he cut down to have an inch long handle and short blade to fit in tight spots. Found that useful on my sewing machine! My dad loved watching you on the Repair Shop.
Thats BS....
The electrical apprentices had to use hammers with wood handles for safety, in case the chisel hit a live conductor.
I' normally use molasses and water to clean rusty tools, but I think I shall give this a go. Thank you....love your videos.
I like watching you on the repair shop and we got an extra bonus with your videos great.
Great video. Just what I needed. Knew about using electrolosis to remove rust but didn't know what the elecrolite was; or which way round the terminals should be.
Great idea cable tying the steel to the box. I have just hung it in the electrolite on a piece of wood when I tried similar jobs (removing silver from photochemistry). Will definately be doing this as I have a few tools that got damp in an old garage.
You should mention that the bubbles are hydrogen from the cathode and oxygen from the anode. You have a potentially explosive mixture if in a confined space. You must therefor be sure to provide adequate ventilation.
Caution: There is also the issue of Hydrogen embrittlement.
Nice to see you here. Let's see more.
I set up the same type of cleaning unit a few years ago. A friend had a large box of assorted tools under his work bench in his garage and his wife opened the window to "air" the garage out and left it open. There was a torrential downpour and his box was filled with water. A year later he pulled the box out to sort out his tools for a garage sale and found them rusted together into a large mass. He classed them as useless and asked me if I wanted them. 2 weeks later I'd run all the tools and many drill bits through my electrolysis bath and I'm now the proud owner of a complete collection of rust free hand tools. All with a beautiful black sheen. I even discovered two American shifters made in 1906, now fully working.
The only downside of the routine was the mess following heavy use of the bath. It leaves a very nasty looking scum on the surface which stains anything it touches. I wouldn't advise putting this down the drain, probably best to dispose of somewhere in the garden. You can get a slight tingle if you dip your bare hands in the solution, but it's not enough to cause discomfort. Don't forget, some chargers use 24 volts and 12 volts, I advise 12 volts for safety reasons. After the de-rusting and cleaning your tools, I give them a light spray of thin oil (WD-40 is OK) and a wipe with a rag, this will protect the tools from rusting again. One final tip, never cover the bath during use, hydrogen is produced (the fizz) and with those electrical connections a spark may cause it to go boom. Oh yes, any chromed tools will lose their shine, but don't worry. the resulting black sheen looks even better. :-)
i've been searching for a much practical solution to all of my rusty things for years...now that i have u on u tube...VOILA!!!....you are definitely what i wanted to give me details...all i can say iz...YOU ARE GREAT!!! UR NOT SELFISH OF UR IDEAS...HOPE THAT EVERYBODY SHOULD DO THE SAME...u r selfless
That's a nice hammer by Cornelius Whitehouse of Cannock 😊👍
1980, ex-MOD, judging by the crowsfoot
I remember Whitehouse hammers they manufactured excellent drywall / roofers hammers during the 80s.
Hey it’s the Repair Shop Guy from on Telly.
That’s me!
@@DominicChineas Love you work bud.
One of the best shows on TV mate.
Thanks Dom, once again practical information we can all use.
Fantastic skill to have I love when your working on The Repair Shop what a pair of skilled hands you have
Great video Dom. When I'm teaching my chemistry students how to remember the difference between anode and cathode I use the idea of a "black cat". The black terminal is the cathode.
Very useful!
I always remember that the 't' in 'cathode' has a dash, a negative sign, through it's upright. 'Anode', of course, doesn't.
Nice.
I also use me+al and non - metal for reminding the kids about positive and negative ions.
@@karenripley3678 The A in Anode has a dash across it.
I use the 2.5amp power supply off an old printer 🖨 worked well on cast Iron Dutch Ovens (Cooking Pots)
I thought Dutch Ovens was a game 🤣🤣
Excellent, used your method to remove light rust from the surface of the disc brake rotors on a 40yr old TR7. Worked brilliantly! No deformation and a clean 'true' surface. Many thanks.
That’s so good to hear! Thank you for the feedback!
Always wanted to try this, process, but always seemed too complicated, so many thanks for this tutorial Dom, I now feel more confident, so I’m going to give it a go 👍
Mohamma time!
If I hadn't seen that hammer, I'd wondered for ages what this mysterious Mohamma was.
Dom, 10% w/v (weight/volume) sodium carbonate solution is more than enough for cathodic cleaning. Some pieces of 304/316 stainless steel would be good as anodes (Pt is a bit too expensive!). A clean up with mild citric acid solution afterwards works a treat too.
Handy advice, thanks.
Would a small amount of Pt in the electrolyte improve the reaction through catalysis, whilst still retaining the large S.S. anodes to do the 'heavy lifting'?
@@tiggywinkle1000 On this sort of scale no. Pt is a more efficient cathode for small-scale electrolytic etching and cathodic cleaning though.
Great video! Little tip: If you can't get your hands on sodium carbonate, you can convert baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) to washing powder (sodium carbonate) rather easily. Heat baking soda in an oven for an hour at ~200F (~95C). That drives off water and carbon dioxide. 2 NaHCO3(s) → Na2CO3(s) + CO2(g) + H2O(g), and voila!
Thank you so much for the tip! Perfect!
Great video. My Dad used regular household white vinegar to remove rust from old tools as welll. He soaked them over night. No power needed.
Great to see you are now on you tube
Vinegar dissolves rust just lovely.
same result, without the hassle of setup
Thanks from New Zealand Dom. The repair shop is on here tonight and I as you all do a fantastic job there I was wondering if it actually exists for anyone in the public. I found my answer and your channel in my search. Just wanted to say a big thank you from my partner and myself to yourself and the team for some really nice resto's. You guys are geniuses who apply your knowledge very well! :) and everyone is so so grateful. It must be very rewarding for you all.
So I picked on your electrolysis clip because I am wondering about cleaning up some large areas of surface rust. Unfortunately it's on old galvanised metal so I'm going to have to figure out if it will work. I suspect it won't work without removing some of the zinc too.... That may also be the case for the chromium plated sockets someone mentioned here.
For one of the other comments I haven't worked out the chemistry of the process (and I can't remember my training of long ago either!) but I suspect it may be carbon dioxide being gased off. Got to go TRS is starting!! :)
You could not have explained it more simple Dom, it`s something I`ll try.👍