How To Upgrade the HBX 16889 - Oil Shocks & Metal Driveshafts
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- čas přidán 21. 01. 2021
- In this video I show you how to upgrade the latest version of the Haiboxing / HBX 16889 1/16 scale 4WD Racing Truck by fitting the following components:
* oil damped coil-over (CVA) shocks
* Metal / steel CVD (constant velocity) driveshafts and metal wheel axles to the front wheels
* Metal / steel driveshafts (dogbones) and steel wheel axles to the rear wheels
The shocks were a simple, straightforward swap, as were the front CVD drives, but the rear dogbones were a very different matter, and need a little "persuading"!!! I hope you find this "How To" video useful when working on your HBX 16889. Please feel free to ask any questions in the comments section below.
16889 Features:
1/16 scale 4WD Racing Truck
Fully proportional steering and speed control
Full ball bearings
Durable bathtub chassis
Splashproof ESC and Receiver
High powered servo with servo saver
Double-wishbone suspension
Friction dampers with metal preload adjuster
2 x 1000mAh Lipo (Lithium Polymer) batteries
Balance USB battery charger included
2.4Ghz Transmitter included
Lexan (polycarbonate) highly detailed body shell
Steel centre Drive Shaft (propshaft)
2 differentials
LED headlights
Fully rebuildable - all spare parts available
Many hop-up and upgrade parts available
Disclaimer: This RC truck was provided for test, courtesy of Haiboxing. However, I have no affiliation with Haiboxing or HBX, I receive no money, commission or payment for this video, and the opinions expressed are purely my own.
Thanks for watching! - Auta a dopravní prostředky
This is an absolutely awesome truck, I really think our RC collections are incomplete without this little tough guy.
That is true, Philip! Glad I got mina along with the little 18859, both cracking little trucks! 👍😊
Mark thank you so much for the heads up on drilling the drive cups. I could not figure out what my problem was so I searched on youtube and came across your video. That simple fix did the job for me. The fronts were spot on. I also added larger tires using the Proline 2.2 Trenchers. They fit the 16899 perfectly. Thanks again.
No problem Philip! 👍
Yeah, it took a bit of thinking when I came across the problem. Glad the fix worked for you too. Thanks for the heads up on the tyres, I'll keep that in mind for the future - cheers! :O)
Wow! You put 2.2 Trenchers on it? I haven't seen this our same person I'm going to order one soon and I would imagine a 2.2 trenchers almost as big as the RC itself. I would love to see that.
Fantastic job drilling out the drive cups to get rid of the binding! Sometimes these inexpensive rc upgrades need the knowledgeable touch from a pro like yourself Mark!
Great tutorial my friend!👍😊
Thanks Jeremy, you are too kind my friend! 👍
I just wanted to show that if you look at a little problem, most of the time the solution is not too difficult - it's the looking that starts the process! All the best, brother! :)
Thanks Mark for this demo! Nice to know it can be upgraded. I think I will keep mine “as is” for awhile, if I get brave and have some bandaids handy, I will upgrade in the future,😁👍. I haven’t unboxed mine yet, been a lot going on and I want to film it, so it is still waiting for me 😁. Finally got caught up on your wonderful and informative vids. 👏👏👍
Good choice, Christine! You will enjoy the truck as it comes, I'm sure! And yeah, don't want to be chopping into your fingers like me! I'll be watching that unboxing, for sure - can't wait... :O)
Ha, ha just been watching the others videos you did in this series. This update dropped! Thanks and will be here for the running vid, see how those shocks shape up...
Awesome, thank you! I can tell you the truck runs so much better with these upgrades, although I can't do a run video yet due to the lockdown :-/
All the best, mate! :)
That was a good idea, to drill out the diff cups rather than filing away at the end of the dogbone shaft. Good work!
Those oil shocks really did transform the truck in your bench-top bounce test!
Thanks very much, Del! 👍
Yeah, I thought that filing the ball ends would spoil the shape of the dogbones and cause further binding. Oh yes, the truck is like a different animal now it's wearing some decent shocks! Cheers, mate! :)
@@MarkBryanRC I look forward to seeing it attack your local golf course once the lockdown´s over : )
Good tip thanks, just fitted metal cups and one binds slightly, didn't think of that cheers! Is a great car brushless on 3s with all metal parts, very strong too.
Glad I could help! Good to hear you got yours sorted out - yeah, agreed, it's a great little buggy! Need to get those metal parts in mine, too! :)
Thanks for this video. I’ve struggled with this upgrade that we were forced into as one of the rear wheels broke off.
2 points:
1) the parts from FTX are flawed as we had the same issue and had to drill them out as well. Thanks for the tip!
2) I too injured myself while removing the old piece 😢 - lack of instructions from the manufacturer is the problem here really.
Your video was perfect, thanks again!
...And thanks for the comment, Paul! Wow, so FTX still haven't fixed their error?!?!? Not good!
Glad you got it fixed though, but sorry to hear you suffered the same fate as me with an injury.
All the best from Mark... 😎👊👍
Yeah mate, I struggled with it. Found your video and then at the end I was like "ffs they still haven't fixed this lol!"
@@MarkBryanRC
@@kellympaul 😅😅👍👍
Well done Mark. Like how you show the remedies to small problems like the driveshaft binding. A little drilling and you are ready to go.. ;)Some would have to wait for new parts. Mechanically inclined people take care of the problem. Well done. Thanks for sharing ..
Thanks Nick, really appreciate the comment, brother! 👍
I agree - unfortunately many young people don't have the experiences we got with hands on stuff as kids - nowadays it's all computer screens and technology - give me a file, some screwdrivers and a drill, any day! :)
@@MarkBryanRC so with your modification is this thing almost Bulletproof? I've heard from so many people as is it is already ridiculously tough even as brushless. A lot of people say doesn't even need the metal differential gears and driveshafts it just needs the oil shocks. Seems to be pretty cheap though and I bash hard at skateparks. 😃
@@williamperri3437 Hi William - yes, I think you are correct! These things are like tanks, so tough. I think all you really need are the oil shocks, especially as the metal drive shafts didn't fit properly! :)
Seems everyone had the issue w the rears. Same here. Even managed to cut my finger as well lol. Thanks for the vid!!
Hi Dave - yeah, at first I thought it was just my parts, but it seems there is a manufacturing fault. I think the rear axles are to blame. Sorry you cut your finger too! All the best from Mark... :)
Wow THANK YOU SOO MUCH you are the only one who made a video of the upgrades I got the HBX 16889 about a month ago its my 1st hobby grade rc I want to upgrade it THXS ALOT
You are very welcome my friend. Yes, when I looked there wasn't much on the tube about upgrading these trucks so I had a go! All the best from Mark...
Just got 2 for me and my son and broke an axle today anybody with a link to buy everything on the video?
Thanks for the drilling advice. Had the same kind of problem.
No problem, glad to help! Hope you get yours sorted out! Cheers!👍
Hi mark, that a Nice good working upgrade, much better👍👍
Thanks as always, Fons! 👍
Yes, the shocks are a super upgrade, the truck runs so much better now, thanks for the kind words, my friend! :)
Good video, thanks!
Glad you liked it, Nick, thanks very much!
Excellent RC 👍#16 nice Video my friends 🤜🤛
Thank you, Maxee! 👍 Much appreciated my friend! Cheers! :O)
Thank you for this video! Helped me out lots!
You're welcome! And thank you for your kind comment, Andy, it was cool of you to let me know. Best wishes from Mark... :)
@@MarkBryanRC I'm just getting into the RC hobby more now than ever. Did an complete upgrade on my 16889 using your video as a guide ;)
@@DJ_DEE440 That's great to hear, Andy! The 16889 deserves a few upgrades, it's a cool RC! :)
YEah even i got the binding problem when i upgraded thanks for the tips!
No problem 👍 Glad it wasn't just me with those issues - many thanks for letting me know - Cheers! :)
Hi Mark, That was a smart fix drilling out the hub carrier. I don't know if I would have figured that out. But then again that's one of the many reasons why I watch your channel😀 I think you would enjoy some of the WlToys newer models like the 124018 They are ~1/14 scale, come with oil shocks, lipos and have a lot of room for mods. It's a clone of the LC Racing and Tacon brands. I have to buy two of everything so my house is getting overrun by RCs but I really want one! Looking forward to the run of the HBX with the oil shocks. I think the vids come out better when the RCs are well damped, the motion looks more realistic. Take care Bro and stay safe!!
Hi Paul - thanks Brother! I'm sure you would have found a solution, too! Yeah, I'd love to get my hands on a few WlToys models - I've seen lots of great videos of them, we'll see what happens this year - at the minute I got that new Tamiya buggy to finish! I bet your house looks like mine with all the rigs :)
Too right, a well damped rig looks so much more scale! Take it easy, too, my friend!
Thanks man, I appreciate this alot! 🤙👍👌✌🤜🤛👏👏👏
No problem, you are very welcome and many thanks for the nice comment! 👍
👍Should be nice with the oil shocks now Mark. You know what you can do also if you have a sticky dog bone you can sand a little off around the ball the pin goes through the dog bone with a moto tool and that works great also... you may also need to grind the U joint slot a bit deeper also.
Thanks for the tip, Steve! Yeah, I thought about sanding the ball ends, but it was binding so much I needed something more drastic! I did end up filing the joint slots down, you are very much an RC engineer, cheers my friend! :)
thx for help. not too many vids on this rc!
No problem, thanks for leaving a kind comment! Pity about the lack of vids, it really is a great little buggy! Cheers! 👍
Wow good job...
Thank you! Cheers! 👍😊
Awsome video/guide! Recently started with rc again after several years and picked up a fc600, same as 16889a pro, that had the binding problem at the rear.
Came across your video and the problem is now solved, thanks again.
Thank you very much for the comment and kind words. Great to hear that you are back into RC and even better to hear that this video was of some help! Cheers for letting me know as it makes it worth while me doing these videos. All the best from Mark...
I have the FTX Tracer MT brushless which looks just like this buggy. I'm getting the metal CVDs for the front and the drive cups for the rear - it already has the metal dogbones in the rear - and I've also ordered a metal spur gear for it. I forgot about the cups on the diffs so I will have to order them when I order the upgrade shocks and another battery. It is a great little buggy and it goes like a rocket. It is also my first brush with brushless (he, he) and I've just bought a FTX Apache as my second brushless.
I wish now that I had bought the Tracer as my very first RC buggy - I actually bought a Ripmax Jackal as my first and haven't been able to get any spares for it apart from the motor.
Hi Nick, yes the Tracer would make an ideal first RC buggy! Even better if it's brushless. Good to fit more durable metal parts and always handy to have a spare battery, "Brush with brushless"!!! haha! Enjoy the new Apache! Cheers!
I bought the HBX16889A and the upgrades to get it up to the Pro Version costs a lot more than actually just buying the Pro. The fun however is in upgrading the HBX 16889A to the Pro version. 😀
Hi there! Yep they are great cars alright, it's always the way that it's more expensive to upgrade than to simply buy the upgraded version. But agree with you, it's fun to do it yourself! 😎👍
@@MarkBryanRCI bought the pro version and after a week of giving hell to this little buggy it holds up realllly well. No problems at all even after driving through water.
But, is there a community or forum somewhere where we can communicate with other hbx car lovers?
You know of a motor upgrade to make it faster?
Battery upgrade to a li ion battery with more than 1000mah?
Thanks. Great video.
@@johnmachter40 Hi John and thanks for the comment. There is a Facebook forum for HBX:
facebook.com/groups/368336444009936/
As for the battery, if you do a search on eBay or Amazon and look for a higher rated battery with similar dimensions I'm sure you'll come up with something! All the best!
@@MarkBryanRCthanks :) will join asap :)
@@johnmachter40 😎😎👍👍
Oy Mukka!! I would want to do that - JUST to get rid of the Phillips Head Screws that fit the Wheels!! Extremely clever to simply Drill the Dogbone end deeper. 👍👍💯
We both know that the average type of buyers of these kind of RCs WON'T know to do that....
So you've helped your viewers, but the Company will have a problem with everyone else.
You have definitely transformed that little Guy!! Sure, it may have been just fine, bog standard... But that was a Bonafide Performance upgrade!! 😎👍👍
Can't WAIT to see what you think of the feel of it afterwards.
Carmine ✈🚂🚙
Cheers me mukka! Agreed, those screws holding the wheels on just ain't right! Most little issues can be solved with a bit of thought - I bet you would have come up with the same solution! The rig does indeed run so much better, I got some awesome jumps in with it - but sadly stripped a bevel gear - arrrgghh! 2 months for a new one from China! Not sure, but it may be due to those darn dogbones! Might be able to show the little bit of footage I have, we will see - very busy at the moment! All the best, matey! :)
@@MarkBryanRC Speaking of solutions....
With some creative measuring, I discovered, and recently fitted - the Rear 42mm CVDs from a HPI RS4, made by Yeah Racing and CHEAP...
Onto the Front of my FF-03!!! ZERO modifications required! 😁😊😎
I had to by a whole Set, front and rear (Fronts were 45mm). They were just slightly more than a THIRD of what the Tamiya CVDs would have been for just the TWO, and are ALL Steel!!! 👍👍
And, I'm left with a pair of 45mm CVDs, that will probably fit something I buy later!
If you wanted to fit CVDs to your FF-03, if you can find the 42mm set for the HPI RS4 separately, you can upgrade yours - and get tighter Steering - for an amazing bargain!!
..... Since HPI parts just aren't moving much these days, they shouldn't be hard to locate! 😉
Cool video, Mark! I wonder how I missed this one, or maybe I just failed to comment when I watched it... Anyway, I will be giving my old HBX a bit of an overhaul, starting this afternoon, looking forward to get started. I got some Tamiya M class wheels with rally tyres, hoping to convert it to "buggy-mode"...
Funny... I am fitting CVD's both front and rear... Fronts fit perfectly like yours, but also with the CVD's, I have trouble fitting them to the rear... Either I need to fit the bearing deeper into the hub, or else file a bit off the shaft... I haven't made my mind up yet...
Why thank you Sir! Glad you caught it (maybe for the second time!) Oh yes, your HBX deserves a little TLC... I hope we get to see how you get on with it. Sounds like a cool little project with those wheels and tyres!
Yep, strange that the hop up parts don't fit properly, mine were sent from the factory to test, but still did not fit! Hope you get the issue sorted out OK, mate! 🤞
@@madsrcbuggywhere you got those Tamiya M class wheels from?
@@johnmachter40 Hi John. I can't really remember, either from EuroRC or Tamico, most likely...
But to be honest, I wouldn't recommend M wheels on 16th scale HBX, they won't fit very well. The wheels are so small there is no space for the steering knuckles, so I needed to use hex extenders, it looks a bit silly...
Rather just go with 10th scale rally block tyres, you will see lots of those in many of Mark's videos. 😀
Finally, someone has addressed the elephant in the room. Good job mate! I had the exact same binding problem with the rear metal drive shafts. Pretty stupid oversight on a great truck. I didn't know any better (overly-keen newbie) and ran the truck with them binding, it stripped out the teeth on the drive pinion and I had to buy new one, huge pain in the A as I had to wait forever. I got the heads up to drill them out from a dude on FB, but I'm apprehensive now and moved the screw to the inner hole on the axle carrier to give me little more room. I think the truck doesn't sound right though. Do you think that will do any damage?
Regardless, awesome vid. Cheers 👍
Thanks very much! Yeah, I was a bit annoyed to find the dogbones and axles didn't fit properly. I did look at moving the screw on the axle carrier like you did, but the wheels were then aligned with too much negative camber (the tops of the wheels pointing outwards). Maybe that's why yours doesn't sound right? Shouldn't cause any damage I wouldn't think. BTW, I stripped a tooth of the rear bevel gear, too! :)
How the Hell did I miss this Brother 😭 sooooo sorry 😞 if am honest I did have the same problem thats why I only put the Front on but though I'd solve it on a later date but I give you a Tip and you give me a Tip lol 😆 I no how to fix it now 😉 cheers for the and Thanks for the Shout out mate I appreciate it 🥰 first shout out in for ages and I bloody missed it 🤭😭can't wait to go out and test mine 🤗 fantastic Build video mate , I enjoyed every single minute 👍😁😜👍
Hey mate, it happens, no worries brother! Glad you caught it - ahh, glad it wasn't just me with the binding dogbones! Cheers for your tip, need to try it out when I get a new bevel gear that stripped in the diff! More shout outs to come! All the best my friend, love and peace as always! :O)
@@MarkBryanRC awww thanks brother again, Love yeah Mate 👍🥰😎👍
LOL, your video is faster than the sound track!
Haha! 👍😊
@@MarkBryanRC There was something wrong with my connection, it is fine now!
@@philiprccars4340 I didn't think it was my video, it plays fine for me, it's usually just a CZcams glitch!
Hi, we drilled the cups like you did, a little bit at a time and tried it in between each drilling. But when it seemed fine, it turned all right by hand, we had a lot of vibrations when we made it run withe the motor. I own 2 trucks and had ordered 4 kits. We disposed of these and tried to drill again with another one. No success. Any advice? You are the only one on CZcams that addresses that problem. Many thanks!
Thanks for the great comment, Daniel! The only thing I can think of that may be causing the vibration is that the drive pins on the dogbones are still binding - I needed to file the slots in the wheel shaft drive cups down by a couple of mm to make them deeper - I hope this makes sense! Good luck and thanks again! 🙂
Nice update with the hopped up parts. Did the driveshafts that caused the issue come from the manufacturer - in that they are 'meant' to be used on this vehicle ? If so that's a bit odd. I quite agree with Del when he mentioned it was a good idea to drill out the interior of the cup rather than the end of the shaft - I would have been meddling with the driveshaft. Anyway it was a great fix, and once again emphasises the flexibility of RC vehicles, in that all issues / damage / faults can be overcome in a variety of ways or equally these machines can be customised to suit a given individual's needs. Very informative. I always learn something new from your build videos. Look forward to another run and have a great weekend...🙂👍🏻.
Cheers, mate - yeah, the driveshafts came with the car - no idea why they didn't fit properly, I agree it's very strange and not a great way to advertise your products! Yeah, with the mod, where there is a will there usually is a way - you just gotta look for the easiest solution. Thanks as always for the great comment, hope all is well with you, fella! Take it easy, dude! :)
The cups fit with no modification with the metal diff upgrades same with the drive shaft kit
Nice video... I did the same drilling method. I am hopeful someone posts a video of the center drive shaft upgrade and metal drive gears install.
Thanks very much, Chris! Glad I'm not the only one with the same issue. Yeah, That Centre shaft and gears sounds like a good upgrade - I'll look into that! Cheers! :)
@@MarkBryanRC Yeah, I keep stripping the plastic center drive shaft gear... would be great to upgrade it to metal. It appears you can't do one without the other.
@@cbb976 Oh man! I've just stripped the same gear, thought it was my dodgy dogbone mod! Thanks for the info - now I really gotta look for some metal gears! :O)
@@MarkBryanRC Nope, not just you. I have some extra plastic drive gears on order but also ordered the metal gears. Sadly, you have to upgrade the drive shaft as well. Will likely take some pics of the final install since the supporting documentation is scarce to say the least.
@@cbb976 Got to order some too - where did you order yours from, I could only find them on AliExpress, 2 months delivery!
I'm having a hell of a time getting the HBX metal rear drive shafts to work on our 16889a. Of course, there's the binding. So I've drilled out and down further the cup where the outer dog bone sits inside. Now there's a clicking sound where the outer bone and cup connect, so maybe I drilled too wide?
Hi Joseph, it's a pain, isn't it? Maybe you need to file the slots where the pin in the dogbone slots into the cup a little deeper, as the dogbone is now further into the cup? Worth a try!
I just did this and no need to drill the cups. When you install the rear axles, just attach the upper link to the inside hole of the rear hub (plastic piece that the bearings go in). The upper link screws to the outside hole with the stock axles.
Note the dog bones will fallout without the shocks attached because there is too much travel. Once the shocks are installed everything's fine.
Nevermind, I'll probably have to drill the cups too because the tire are tied out
Hi and thanks for the comment 👍 yes I did try using the other holes but as you found out, the camber on the wheels is crazy 🤪!!! Hope you get it sorted soon 🤞👍
@@MarkBryanRC yeah all good now after drilling. Great vid 👍
For the rear driveshaft pb , how is it on the Pro version ?
Maybe you have to get metal diff outdrives as well when you upgrade to metal dogbone...
Sorry but not sure, I don't have the pro version. You could be right about the outdrives though! 😎👍
Good video bro , but where have you got this parts ?
Thanks, Bro! I got these parts from HBX with the car. But you can order them from HBX website or Ali Express or Banggood! Cheers! :O)
I reslly think the body shell of the HBX's will also appreciate the oil shock upgrade because I'm quite sure it will be upside down a whole lot less!
Haha 😄 yeah that's a great point, Philip!!!
Good work, Mark. Yeah, will be interesting to see if it was just yours. So it was both rear L/R that didn’t sit correctly? Or just one side? If it was both I suspect mine will be the same if they are from the same batch. But good solution. Uhh, yeah, RC wrenching can be dangerous. I’ve had several cuts too 😅 Luckily I think (for us) working on bigger hobby machines is even more dangerous.
Hello, Mikael - I hope this message finds you well. Yes, both left and right shafts were binding, as I think they are mirror images. Hope you got a 5mm drill handy! And OUCH! Silly mistake, I should know better than to prize a bearing off with a screwdriver! The blood was everywhere! You'd think I'd know better at my age. Agreed, at least it was a little machine I was working on! All the best, mate! :)
looking for a bit of advice. When fitting the front CVD/drive shaft, one side has decidedly too much play, leading to a fairly wobbly wheel. Wondered if it was a discrepancy/fault with one of the parts, so switched it with the bits from the other side, and the problem remains on the same side. Any ideas? Done the other car and no problems, so 3/4 of the ones I fitted seem great, just this one...love the video. New to all this, and this has been very informative and useful to me, thank you!
Hello! Thanks for the message. Hmm, this sounds very strange, that the problem remains on the same side after switching parts. The only thing I can think of is shimming the loose side in some way, with washers or O-rings, perhaps? Hard to tell when I can't examine the buggy. But good luck with it my friend!
@@MarkBryanRC thank you buddy, appreciate your response. As I said, im new to all this and learning as j go along. Fresh pair of eyes this morning revealed a missing bearing on that side, which must have dropped out while getting. Found the culprit and all is now good. Started on the rears and drilling the cups, 1 car done 1 to go. Thanks again 👍
@@nerocircus Ahh, that's great news! So glad you got it sorted. Good luck with the second car!
Look at how the rear tires are towed in. You can also try the other screw holes but then you get bad camber. Both of these will cook tires. The toe issue is slowing it down considerably. I put all the metal gears and different drive shaft in mine and mine got real slow. I am trying to figure out how to fix the toe and camber issue as well as the additional drag/friction caused by the metal gears.
Hi Ricky, thanks for the comments! I really don't think the rear toe-in is a problem, most of my Tamiya cars have rear toe-in, it helps with stability at speed. I agree that the other rear top arm screw holes give bad positive camber, which is really a performance killer. The metal gears should not increase friction if they are well made, if they are causing drag, there must be an issue with them IMHO.
@UsedTreadsTireStore did you fix the toe and camber issue yet?
Now that I am more confortable with mechanical parts of this rc, I realized the motor of mine came with defect. The metal ring and heatsink simply blocked the vent hole. They installed it at the bottom part of the motor instead of the top lol. Already ordered a new one because even with 2 heatsink, it becomes really hot on 2s lipo. I will burn it anyway since weather is getting hotter and 93mm wheels were installed. Still, a factory defect to note.
Hello again! Great to hear that you are getting on well with the maintenance! It sounds like you have become good at detecting problems! Thank you for the information about the faulty motor heat sink, I'm sure other people reading this will find that useful to know. Have fun with the truck and all the best from Mark. 👍
Hi, do you have on the back 2 ball bearings or 1? I must remove 1 to get the driveshaft completly in? Perhaps not good if its only 1 ball bearing?
Hi Sepp. There are 2 ball bearings that support the wheel shafts for all 4 wheels. The one on the outside stayed in place in the plastic wheel carrier as I took out each wheel shaft, and the inside bearing was stuck on the axle and is very difficult to remove! That's how I cut my finger! I must say that overall, this is a very well designed truck. Best regards from Mark...
Have you replaced the rear diff cups? I bought a set of 4 and they don't seem to be the right ones though they are the only ones available for sale.
Hello - no I haven't done the diff cups, but I also hear from other people that the one's for sale don't fit properly! :-/
I had the same problem with the rear shafts ive just ordered shorter dog bones
The front fit spot on
Mint truck on 3s
Just ordered metal gears too
And wiltoys 1/12 wheels
Should be a beast hahh
Hi - yeah there must be a problem with these dogbones as a lot of folks have said the same!
I think I need those metal gears, too, I stripped the rear bevel gear on mine last week!
All the best, Mike! Cheers! :O)
@@MarkBryanRC to be honest ive been using 3s lipo 5000 mah on it never had a problem with anything
Beast mode hahaha
@@miketube6662 3S?!?!?! Sounds like a real BEAST! :))
One question, what do you think is the problem if one of the wheels doesnt stand exactly in position, if it is crooked a little bit?
That's hard to answer when I can't get my hands on your car to check it - but if it's not loose (wobbling around) then I think it will be OK! :)
Olá boa tarde td bem sou do Brasil gostei muito doque fez no hbx16889 gostaria de fazer o mesmo.
Por favor tem como me passar 1 lista 📃 completa das peças que vc usou para fazer o upgrade no seu hbx16889...?
Obrigado 🙏🏾 amigo!
Hello my friend, I'm very sorry but I don't have a parts list as they were sent to me by the manufacturer along with the car for testing and review. I think you can find the parts if you search on Banggood.com or Aliexpress. Best wishes from Mark.
My screws keep coming off the steering control arms can you upgrade those?
Sorry, but I haven't seen any upgrades for that - but try a little drop of super glue on the threads before you screw them in - that might help.
Hello friend, I have a problem with the bones on the back of my hbx 16889 a pro, when I accelerate with the car holding it with my hand, the rear wheels make very strange vibrations and it seems to come from the bone, it is possible in this cars. When the car is on the ground it does not. thank you so much
Hello friend - yes I've had that problem before with wheels vibrating. many times I found it is due to sand or dirt getting inside the tyres. Thanks for your comment. Best wishes from Mark. 👍
Hi, i am planning to do this upgrade on my hbx, do i need to put oil or grease on the new metal shafts? Thanks for the video
Hi and thanks for watching! I would definitely use grease on the metal shafts and drive cups. Cheers!
@@MarkBryanRC thank you
😁👊👍
What dogbones and parts did you use , where can i order ?
Hi - the parts came with the truck from the manufacturer, I didn't buy them. However, I know the parts are available from Ali Express and Banggood. Cheers. :)
Just my take on the binding thing: mine did this, but on the top screw that you take out to flip the whole thing down there are 2 screw wholes, I just screwed mine in the other one, doesn't bind anymore, worth a try for anyone struggling.
Thanks for the tip, Matthew! It is worth doing if you are struggling, as you say. All the best from Mark... :)
I did the same. There is two screw wholes I choose the outer one and its perfectly fine but the tyre looks little bend inside
Links to where you purchased the items?
They were sent for review!
(New to hobby) I Got a bezgar 7 for Christmas and wanted to upgrade but no parts really available was told that the upgrades to this are the same parts that I’ll need,do you know any info on that because I would like to make it brushless, metal gear servo and any metal upgrades
Hi Roger. I just had a quick look at the Bezgar 7 and it does appear to be exactly the same as the HBX 16889. There are a few models that share the same chassis and suspension, also look at the FTX Tracer, I used parts from that to fix my 16889! So... upgrades for those other cars should fit your buggy. Lots available on banggood and AliExpress websites. All the best!
@@MarkBryanRC Finally someone with an answer!!! Bro your the man thank you so much I really do appreciate the info and how quick you responded definitley gonna subscribe n recommend your channel 👍👍
@@OutSpoken5280 No problem Roger - I always try to reply to comments, sometimes it may be a while due to work etc. If you are in the UK, I found I could get parts for the FTX Tracer cheap and fast from eBay from a UK seller. Might be worth a look! Cheers!
@@OutSpoken5280 Oh, and many thanks for the sub, it's really appreciated! All the best! 😎👍
Front and rear shocks are the same size?
Yep, exactly the same! 🎄👍😃👍
Does this particular model have low voltage cutoff? Just curious.
Yes, the ESC has a Lipo low voltage cutoff as standard. It's a cool little truck! :)
It might have, but please be careful, as the cut-off voltage is way too low for save battery drain. Friend and I coincidentally yesterday drove our cars to shut-off on 2S LiPo's. The resulting voltages in the cells was barely 3V (3.019 for my lowest)!
No expert but I read 3.2-3.3 is an optimal cut-off. I have some LiPo alarms coming my way (about EU 1.50 a piece) and would advice them to anyone wanting to get every last drop out of their lipos, or just as precaution.
By the way, my version is from 2020, my friend's arrived yesterday, both with the red ESC. I mention this because variants of this car can also have a black ESC, maybe those have better cut-off. We have the LinxTech 16889, not the HBX one.
@@beardmonkey2318 Many thanks for all that useful information. I have a couple of those cheap Lipo alarms, so will be using them on this truck in the future - cheers! :)
Hello, what is the length of the shocks please ?
Hello! The shocks are 65mm from eye-to-eye. Hope this helps! 👍
What does it mean the truck drifts to the left even tho the steering trim is set in the middle
Hi Chad, that happens sometimes if the servo wasn't centred correctly in the factory or because of tolerances in the steering components - that's why they fit a steering trim - it's not unusual and nothing to worry about unless you can't get it straight with the trim. :)
@@MarkBryanRC ty
What are the length of the oil filled shocks. As im about to order some 65mm wltoys 1/18 scale shocks, hole to hole they are 57mm which will lower my truck by about 13mm from stock as i want my centre of gravity lower.
Hi Stephen. The shocks are 65mm, eye-to-eye. Those 57mm shocks should do the trick for you! All the best from Mark...
@@MarkBryanRC thanks as i find my shocks are far to unstable so my car has the tendency to flip n roll over to easily. I did try the 70mm hbx oil shocks n didnt like the way it sat. Though if u apply weight to the car n see it sat level with the control arms virtually flat with the car it still allows ground clearance but stabilizes the car. Riding the car on 65mm shocks in theory should reduce roll over and flipping i was gonna find some wider arms, shafts etc.. but cant think of a car i cud utilize for parts i dont suppose u can recommend a 16th scale rc car that has a wider track?
@@stephenblakey4913 I like your logic, Stephen. I think lowering the car would help the handling. Very sorry, but I don't know of any other "donor" parts that would fit. Good luck with your project!
@@MarkBryanRC thankyou
Why dont you put cvd also in the back?
Because the car came with these hop-ups included. Also, not sure they will fit - I tried to fit CVDs in the rear of the 18859 and they didn't fit! :)
i’m wondering what diff fluid do these take. ? do you know by any chance..?😇
Hi - I don't use diff fluid, just some ordinary grease in the diffs! :))
@@MarkBryanRC thx i already have some grease saved me a little money i appreciate that.😇😎💯☝🏽
@@burn1gotbeats No problem, great to hear!
Hiya matey. Hey top fettling! Shame about your injury. Dangerous hobby this! So with the wheel hexes, is it definitely part of the wheel and not a separate bit that is jammed in the wheel? I ask because some of my Tamiyas are like that where you take the wheel off and the hex is jammed into the wheel. Can be poked out from the other side. Also, I was surprised that the shocks were actually already filled with oil or did you fill them yourself? Should run nice and smooth now. Was odd about the dog bone being too long. I wonder if they should have sent you different gearbox joints? You got it sorted anyway. Do how's work been this week or shouldn't I ask? Mine's been the same old same old but Saran's work has gone a bit mad with all the Covid. The hospital is officially full and they are sending patients elsewhere. Our area had got away quite lightly previously but it's all gone mad now. Anyway I'm going to stay in with some beer and a bit of hobbying. Hope you have something lined up to drink. Have a great weekend mate 😁🍺🍺🍺🍺
Hiya, Pete! Hope all is well with you and those beers are going down well! Just started a pint here, too. Oh man, that cut to my finger was bloody deep, what a prat I am! Oh, I checked, and those hexes really are part of the wheel moulding! Yes, the shocks came filled with oil, I was surprised to find they were full to the top, I was expecting them to be empty, too. They feel about the right weight of oil is fitted, too, after a little test. I agree, I think these dogbones were designed to fit into the metal out-drives, but I wasn't sent those. At least it all works now, but I have tried it and stripped the rear bevel gear, so I think the dogbones are still binding and locking the wheels, a 2 month wait from china for the new parts :-/
Hope Saran is holding up OK, I feel for her in that stressful job - give her a big hug tonight! Yeah, work is a pain, but now it's the weekend!!! Yippee!!! Have lovely weekend stuck inside - we gotta do our bit. Cheers for now, matey! :O)
@@MarkBryanRC On my 2019 16889 this is NOT the case for the wheelhexes! They are pretty stuck in the wheels, but I managed to get one out with pliers just now. Be careful though, the plastic is damaged quickly. The hexes that you remove from the wheel are identical to the black spare ones you can buy online.
@@beardmonkey2318 I do apologise! I just had another, much closer look, and the Hexes will indeed come out. Yes, they look exactly like the standard Tamiya wheel hexes!
@@MarkBryanRC No problem, glad I found your video, as Ive had this car for over a year now so the release last week was quite a coincidence as Ive also started thinking about upgrading it since a few weeks. Lightning speed learning, never done anything RC before :) And most vids on the 16889 do not cover these specific upgrades and how to do them. That said, could you look into my other question below regarding the upgrade metal diff cups? Curious as to your thoughts. thanks in advance!
@@beardmonkey2318 Cool - I will look into the diff cups, just in the middle of a new kit build and filming - I'll get to it my friend! :)
Can you put the cups on the end that is attached to the body of the car (not the wheel)? The differential, I guess. Or do I need to buy "differential cups"? Thanks!
Hello! Sorry, but the cups for the differential and the wheels are completely different - you will need to get those diff cups. 😎👍
@@MarkBryanRC Ok thank you! I appreciate it. 👍
@@TheJofrica Any time my friend! 😊
@@MarkBryanRC I had already ordered the wheel cup and shaft but realized it was the diff cup that cracked lol. I guess I’ll just have to make it all metal haha 👍I take it off jumps a lot, that’s probably what cracked it. Super fun stuff!
@@TheJofrica Oh yeah, this little truck can take a beating! But it will be a lot stronger with the metal parts. Have even more fun after the upgrade!
Did the tires backwards have any real effect?
Not really if I'm honest! Cheers! 😅👊👍
@@MarkBryanRC though so thanks
Just used my pro for the first time today with light use and already the cvd has failed so only got a 3 wheel drive lol😢…. What size tool do I need to remove the wheels ?
Sorry to hear that Kieran! Hope you can fix it! You can remove the screws that hold the wheels on with a crosshead screwdriver! Cheers! 😎👍
It’s a nut, I’ve ordered a cross wrench 👍🏻
@@Kieranshields89 Oh, sorry, mine must be different... it is a screw on mine with a crosshead slot in the middle. The pro must be upgraded! 👍👍
I've been tring to find a metal pinion gear for the center drive shaft, but I can't seam to find one. I've lost 3 teeth off of the plastic one that comes in the truck
Hi - the only metal pinion I can find is from Banggood, here:
www.banggood.com/HBX-M16102-Upgraded-Zinc-Alloy-Spur-Gear-for-16889-1-or-16-RC-Car-Spare-Parts-p-1624835.html?cur_warehouse=CN&rmmds=buy
Not sure if the stock bevel gear works with it, although the Q&A on the site says it does. Happy searching! :)
How did you get those plastic shaft cups out of the bearings?? Did you clip the plastic off on outside? I think you injured yourself as well
Hi Patrick - I didn't have to cut anything (other than my finger!) but I just prised the bearings off with a screwdriver, a bit tight, but they came off eventually. All the best from Mark... :)
I still don’t know how to get them off
@@patrickharvey8747 All I can say, Patrick, is that I had to use a lot of force - hence pressing so hard I slipped and sliced my finger - ouch!
Hi, what kind of tool did you use to tighten the wheel nuts?
Hi there! I just used a cross-head screwdriver. Cheers! 😎👍
A screwdriver? For the nuts?
@@drifter811 The nuts have a screw slot in the middle of the heads!
@@MarkBryanRCOh, I see! Thanks!
@@drifter811 Cool - thanks for the reply!
I just got mine the other day and I unfortunately didn't get the upgrade parts. Are these available from HBX?
Hi! I think the upgrades were sent to me because I was reviewing the truck for them!! The only place I have seen the parts for sale is on Banggood.com and AliExpress. Cheers! :)
@@MarkBryanRC Awesome thank you, just got my shocks in the mail yesterday and my brushless motor is on the way. Cheers !
@@sebastianjaromi3540 Great to hear, Sebastian! Now time for some real fun!! :))
@@MarkBryanRC we will see it’s deep winter here in Alberta (-33 C ) today in Edmonton but my snow track is coming along nicely I’ll take some video when it’s a bit warmer 👍
received my oil filled shocks today but at work right now. They seem beefier and longer than stock... i dont know if they will fit...
Good that they came, let's hope they do fit when you get back home - fingers crossed!
@@MarkBryanRC Faster than i thought from China. Do you think a lipo battery from the 16889 can be used in my rebranded blackzon brushed? And the usb charger works? My comes with a 800mah lion battery but the esc has a low voltage cutoff so i think a lipo could work and give it a little more power (not than i really need it)
@@farmoboy83 Hi - yes I think you will be safe using that LiPo! Same voltage as a Lion. Just as long as the cut-off works, all should be good! Have fun!
@@MarkBryanRC new shocks work perfectly. Just needed to adjust rear ones for the spring maximum strength because they were not depressing totally after compression. Just like if the oil is too thick and the standard spring strength was not enough to bring it to rest state. Noticed one thing, one of my wheels is wooblin a lot. Not suspension problem because it does the same if I change it for another place. So, rim or tire or both are doing this... Any idea of how to solve this without a new set of wheels? Thanks
@@farmoboy83 Good news on the shocks! As for the wheel, not sure about that one - if the wheel is bent I'd say yo need to replace it. It may be that the tyre has come unseated, if so just remove the whole tyre and re-glue it back on!
I can’t find the metal rear wheel axles only the dogbones and front driveshafts
Hi - well, they didn't fit, so maybe they have realised that and stopped selling them!
@@MarkBryanRC I found em and I think getting washers is a good idea to fill the gap as I had the same issue with my front
@@sauce8608 Great to hear you found them! I hope you have good luck fitting them, too!
Huh? My hex's came out... I replaced them with metal ones and 1/12 size tires😁
Oh yeah, mine came out too with a little persuasion! Good call to put metal hexes on! 😎👍
Heloo friends the hex actually does pop out of the wheel
Helooo! Thanks very much for the confirmation! I did find out later that they came out after a but of persuasion! Cheers! 😎
@@MarkBryanRC yea at first I thought I might be damaging it
@@vertical7047 Same here! Glad it wasn't just me! 👍😊
Which is the recommended oil for these shocks .?.
Hi. There was no recommendation about oil, in fact the shocks come with no instructions. I reckon #600 is a good starting point.
@@MarkBryanRC thanks for replying. new subscriber here.
@@NavdeepSingh-bt2cc You are very welcome, Navdeep! Many thanks for subscribing, it all helps my channel. Best wishes from Mark.
@@NavdeepSingh-bt2cc You are very welcome, Navdeep! Many thanks for subscribing, it all helps my channel. Best wishes from Mark.
can you give me the links to all the things
Sorry, but these parts came free with my car so I don't have the links, but I'm sure you can find them by searching - good luck! :)
for regular parts from haiboxing, go to haiboxingtoys.com and navigate to the 16889(A) site, it lists ALL upgrade and replacement parts. Take note of the M number and search for those online on for example Ali or wherever you get your parts
@@beardmonkey2318 Thanks for the tips!
What are all the parts called
Here are some links for you:
www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwiVqvnmjoL2AhWIme0KHVLNAe8YABAJGgJkZw&ae=2&ohost=www.google.com&cid=CAESWuD2vK9OeXfIKeyLPZFmXmhSZxtuEsz3_eapVKV0tSc-QKXJqLUWNJK9S07yBD5WRFc7mZYpL8GVlp6Wt033_mq9ogo7hJWwq53Kq3PWOeeMy6puHcZMO2WB6g&sig=AOD64_0TmGPc7UTKcEynV5zgKY7MrXUOmA&ctype=5&q=&ved=2ahUKEwiJtvDmjoL2AhXiQkEAHaIvBoMQ9aACegQIARBZ&adurl=
www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwiVqvnmjoL2AhWIme0KHVLNAe8YABAKGgJkZw&ae=2&ohost=www.google.com&cid=CAESWuD2vK9OeXfIKeyLPZFmXmhSZxtuEsz3_eapVKV0tSc-QKXJqLUWNJK9S07yBD5WRFc7mZYpL8GVlp6Wt033_mq9ogo7hJWwq53Kq3PWOeeMy6puHcZMO2WB6g&sig=AOD64_27TH8QHD8Dcp7pcnE1uRaNSOJwUQ&ctype=5&q=&ved=2ahUKEwiJtvDmjoL2AhXiQkEAHaIvBoMQ9aACegQIARBB&adurl=
CÓ KHUNG GẦM Hbx 16889 KHÔNG Ạ
YES!
@@MarkBryanRC Cho Tôi xin link khung gầm
www.aliexpress.com/w/wholesale-hbx-16889.html?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20230318030222&SearchText=hbx+16889&spm=a2g0o.home.1000002.0
Are you still using this model?
Yep! 😎👍
Aru you sure that the hex is a part of the wheel? That it's non removable... When searching for these tires I see they come without the hex nut
Edit: I just saw in the comments that this was covered. They do come out!
I Igor - yes, you are correct, sorry about my mistake! Thanks for the kind message!
Like on Amazon
I put links for you on the other reply :)
What are the part numbers man ?
This website from Haiboxing lists ALL available parts: www.haiboxingtoys.com/205-hbx-16889-16889a-parts
Take note of the M-numbers given there, like M16105 for the front metal drive shafts, and search at your favorite website.
Shocks are M16100A, rear shafts M16107
Thanks very much for helping with the info - I was going to reply but you kindly provided the data - respect! :))
Cheers! :)
The hex drive is not part of wheel Amateur 😮
Haha you amateur, you never made a mistake?!?!?!?! Can't wait to see your expert helpful videos! 🤣😅
Thanks for watching all the same! 😎👍