The Best Way To Attach Solar Panels To Your RV!
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- čas přidán 16. 07. 2024
- This video covers some tricks on how to attach solar panels on the roof of your RV that allows for complete flexibly of placement, replacement. portability and upgrade-ability. The key trick is to use strut channel as the base for attaching the panels to the roof.
Here is a list of the components that I cover with links to where you can purchase them.
(Disclosure: Some of these are affiliate links. If you click through and purchase an item I will get a small kickback at no extra cost to you. Any little bit I can make helps build the channel and is appreciated.)
All things solar can be found at Continuous Resources (Link - tinyurl.com/y25awjeu) at good prices and with knowledgeable support. I have purchased quite a bit from Matt and he has been super helpful when I have had questions.
Specific Items:
210 Watt Solar Panels: tinyurl.com/y8qrk6fq
Adjustable Solar Panel Mounts: tinyurl.com/ya56r88w
Strut Channel: tinyurl.com/y8pgm4sw
Strut Channel Cone Nuts: tinyurl.com/y6a72j4w
More info about my full setup can be found in another video titled "My Dream RV Power System" (Link - • My Dream RV Power System! ). Links to all components covered in that video can be found in the video description.
Music: Happy Rock from Bensound.com
I know this is a three year old video, but I sure appreciate finding it! Thanks for posting.
The strut channel stuff is good advice, but solar panels are so cheap nowadays, I don't think it's worth putting angle brackets unless you're 1) going really far north, or 2) have already bought enough panels to completely max out your roof. If your roof isn't maxed out in space yet, the money is better spent on more panels. You can also get used panels off of Marketplace or Santan solar, or buy directly from a place like a1solar. You don't need RV specific panels, residential panels are engineered to withstand 140+ mph winds, so they're plenty tough.
This panel can put out close to 100 watts czcams.com/users/postUgkxOqI2yqX0XVrhR2BMJciTWrHJpG8FhJyg when positioned in the appropriate southernly direction, tilted to the optimal angle for your latitude/date, and connected to a higher capacity device than a 500. The built in kickstand angle is a fixed at 50 degrees. Up to 20% more power can be output by selecting the actual date and latitude optimal angle.The 500 will only input 3.5A maximum at 18 volts for 63 watts. Some of the excess power from the panel can be fed into a USB battery bank, charged directly from the panel while also charging a 500. This will allow you to harvest as much as 63 + 15 = 78 watts.If this panel is used to charge a larger device, such as the power station, then its full output potential can be realized.
I am SOOOO thankful you finally got off the powder coating!
Glad I found this. Was looking for a solid mounting solution that still allowed me to easily clean/maintain the roof of our RV. I think I found a winning solution here. Nice work.
Great DIY design! Found this video just before mounting my panels the conventional way. Will definitely be using your method. Thanks so much!
Well thought out.. Many great advantages of mounting this way. I especially like that you can remove and upgrade for personal use and for selling the unit. I am. all over this technique.
I absolutely love this system. A major game changer for intstalling pv on an rv roof. You had me laughing about the powder coating. It's always great to include the wife in the decisions, all the decisions. LOL. But brother, galvanized, unpainted struts will outlast several human lifetimes being in any weather 24/7.
Except for one thing, Jack. Dissimilar metals can cause some real corrosion issues over time. Unistrut is steel. Yes, it's galvanized. That's great. But having aluminum angle in direct contact with the strut steel will cause corrosion. Water and accumulated snow will speed up the corrosion. That is, unless you powder-coat either the unistrut and/or the aluminum. So... his wife is a genius. LOL
easy fix.
use galvanized angles. also power coated.
but i would like to here how this has held up to years, and cyclone winds, snow,etc.
I just found your video and WOW, what an awesome way to mount anything to the roof of a trailer! I will be doing this to my 8x16 toyhauler this next spring. I see adding a rack for kayaks and solar panels. I will be making my panels tiltable too. Thanks for sharing, R
Thank you...I am an electrician so I use struts all the time. Your use for that application is brilliant 👏
Hi Samuel! Thanks for the comment and the complement.
Super video! I have been going round and round debating my install because I have so many challenges and must maximise the limited space I have. I will be living 100% off-grid, through winter, in a 4 season rig tested to 0 degrees. No grid power option. The channel was the epiphany! I can get 8 250w Sunpower panels on now, but still want to work out 4 more. Once the 8 are on, this channel idea gives me the flexibility to play with scissor-deployment, or slides, or something from on top or beneath the already mounted ones. Thanks for this! Really simplifies things and is getting me moving forward. I have limited time to build this. I'll have 3kw collection and 13kw storage. Better be enough! :-)
Hi William. Thanks for the comment. Sounds like you have a fun project ahead of you. Glad I was able to provide some inspiration. good luck!
GREAT video!!!! Just came across your video today. Picking up a new Winnebago Micro Minnie 2108 this week and was agonizing on how to mount my solar panels to the roof. Thanks for making my day!!!!!!
Glad I could help!
Great setup. The easiest attachment setup I've seen so far...and most cost effective.
Hi Andrew!
Definitely! The modularity and ease of attaching make it awesome. With the cost of the solar/inverter/battery after market installs you have to make things portable to your next rig(s) to get the most out of your investment.
Thank you for showing how to put these in and which part to use to attach the solar panels to the roof. I'm going to attach the super struts to a suv's roof rack and I was trying to figure out how to connect it all - looking at the choices in the hardware store was a bit overwhelming so your video helps with the brackets too as I ordered a set of those too - I was thinking of attaching them evenly with the struts, using the brackets but loose the ability to move the panels as easily so it's good to know I can attach the panels without the brackets if I want to.
Awesome! Glad it was helpful. Good luck with your system.
The Best idea I have seen yet for attaching solar to the roof. Great job buddy!!!!
A WORD OF WARNING!! The concept is great, but Ron's comment about placing the attaching screws at the roof trusses bears more emphasis. The roofing decks of most RV's are pretty thin and flexible. Strut channels are not. If you locate any attaching screws between the trusses, as soon as you place any weight nearby they will likely strip out. If you are not as fortunate as Ron and cannot locate a diagram showing the location of your roof trusses, be sure to set the strut channels in place on your roof AND BEFORE DRIVING ANY SCREWS move along the strut channel to identify any areas where your weight causes the roof to flex away from the strut channel. Be sure NOT to drive any attaching screws in those areas. The outer rails are likely to have little or no areas of significant flexing given the outside frame of the roof, but the inner rails most likely will have several areas in which attaching screws will not hold.
In which case, wouldn't it be best to meet the center as two cross struts which bolt together for added structure yet use the outer strut screws for secure mounting?
I don't see alot of people talking about well nuts. If you look at renogy installation manual you will be able to find a mention of well nuts.
Most definitely!!!
Another thing to think about is the stress place on the channel and then onto its attachment points. Screws in thin plywood are much more easily ripped out due to the forces applied via wind and drag. Some people in the comments have suggested putting "risers" between the strut channel and the roof to allow for better water drainage. I'm not so sure that is a good idea structurally. Having the strut channel flush against the roof allows for any forces applied to it to be evenly distributed and transferred to the roof along the full length of the strut channel segments rather then just the individual attachment points. RV roofs are not designed to have lots of stuff attached to them. Distributing the load is probably a good idea.
Absolutely! Just came off the roof of a custom 1 off tiny camper & can visually see where the cross bracing in the roof is, but unsure what material was used! Installing 4x100w Renogy panels once I'm sure this will work in my specific situation. Appreciate everyone's input on this post
@@travelnewtrails8232 this clown talks worse than a woman! 20 mins and never gets to the point!
Great idea... Preparing to do a solar project for my truck camper....glad I found this! Thank you!
Love you idea. this is the greatest thing going for me on my installation , can't wait to start I will be watching your videos over and over thanks
Thanks and good luck!
I just finished my install today. I placed 3/8" UHMW spacers under the rails It worked perfectly.
@ZonaJim: Are the spacers touching roof, strut channel on top? Was thinking about that for water flow underneath strut to create space for water flow rather than impediment?
@@SteveJonesPerezCom I took a 12" x 24" sheet of UHMW plastic that I purchased on Amazon. I cut it on my table saw to 1" x 1-1/2" blocks, and drilled a hole in the center of each block.
I then put a piece of butyl tape on one side of each block. I spaced the blocks about every two feet. The butyl tape was between the roof and the UHMW block. Then I put the strut rail on top and then ran a screw (with washer) through the strut rail and UHMW to secure it to the roof. I finished up by sealing around the block with Dicor, including the screw.
I installed 20 feet of channel last summer but I did not install spacers and now wish I did so debris can hopefully flow under the strut. I looked up UHMW and the cost was prohibited so I looked up rubber washers and could not really tell what kind of rubber they were selling and did not want neoprene. So I looked under my kitchen counter and found a 12x18 1/2" thick Poly Chopping Board which is some type of synthetic white plastic and it should do the trick with the help of my band saw. So I will copy you and do the same. Oh and by the way I replace my roof last summer with 3/4" plywood so mounting is not a issue.
Awesome idea. Can pull your panels and leave no holes behind!!
Yep. The strut channel stays attached to the roof but anything attached to it (i.e. panels) can come off without leaving any damage to the roof. Fully modular design. :-)
good video, there were a few idea gems in there. The main concept of the struts supporting a tilting L support for the solar panels is brilliant. solves most curved roof problems and does it efficiently and elegantly with added versatility and clearance for airflow under the panels.
Thank you very much for 2 great videos. Absolutely awesome.
I did go in and read comments regarding how you attached the rails to your roof as you really never covered this subject. I have seen where a person was just using a double sided tape. That made me nervous.
But I found the answer, thank you again.
I would love to know this answer too. Did you screw the uni-strut? If you are only using double sided tape, you are really only attaching to the roof membrane.
Wanted to thank you for sharing this because I am just now getting ready to install two 200 watt panels on top of our Coachman Orion RV. I just need to find a source for all of the hardware (strut channel and angle mount brackets) then I'll go to work with the installation; thinking Lowe's or Home Depot will have what I need. Everything about your installation is perfect to include having a way to tilt the panels towards the sun once you are at your camp site or even at home.
Disregard the request for where to buy the strut - found it below the video. Just ordered the the off-grid solar panel mounts a minute ago.
Love the unistrut idea... we've been using unistrut to mount solar panels in other places as well, but also using aluminum unistrut since it is way lighter.
Thanks! Aluminum strut is lighter but it is more expensive (though after I powder coated I’m not so sure). The weight isn’t really an issue I don’t think however I will be taking a second look at the aluminum strut when I do this again.
The weight difference is minimal. Why spent the money? Powder coating is totally unnecessary.
How do you folks mount strut channel to the roof? Tapes, adhesives, screws?
This is very nice! I follow van life and RV. I hear some people say that keeping panels with a gap between the roof for air flow, too, which you have. Some installers put the panels virtually flat. I wonder of the benefit of this air flow in quantify / % efficiency increase.
Making your solar panels an adjustable angle has good benefit. Your design is great for easier maintenance.
Awesome setup, would love to do this with a single frame connecting all the panels and about 3 linear actuators to tilt them automatically. Would have to come up with some some sort of locking system if i don't want to get up there and unlock the frame every time. To the drawing board. Thank for the inspiration.
I though the same thing at first. Then after I got everything installed to the strut channel I saw that due to the compound curvature of the roof I wasn't able to lift the panels together because they would bind. If you could create a "rack" from the strut channel that would even out all of the curves it would probably work. That would probably require floating the channel off the roof which add extra height and weight to the system and would direct all forces applied to the system to only the points where it attached to the roof rather than spreading the forces evenly across the roof along the entire length of the strut channel segments. Part of the challenge is that RV roof probably aren't been designed with the idea that stuff will be mounted to the top of them.
Wow! Brillant !
I totally agree this is the BEST way to install solar.
Hi Tucker! Thanks for the comment and I'm glad you liked it.
Beautiful mountains in the background. Thanks for video Ron.
Good advice, thanks for the video. I like the ability to angle the panels.
I plan on installing more panels soon on my Lance 1685. The original owner had a factory installed 100 watt panel using typical brackets spaced about 8" apart. Obviously they weren't intending to hit cross members. I'll probably do the same but will be getting more detail on roof construction first so at least I know what i've done. Having watched multiple videos regarding panel install I really appreciate the effort put into this important subject from all. So, thank you for adding your design and construction information.
Thanks and I'm glad you found the video helpful.
I have posted some follow up videos that might answer more of your questions. ( czcams.com/video/aO3SSkT4CwU/video.html , czcams.com/video/kcVaNkxEHXc/video.html )
@@travelnewtrails8232 I'll check them out tonight-thanks.
This is the best idea I have seen regarding panel mounts on an RV roof. Could you elaborate a little bit on how you secured the strut channel to the roof? What kind of bolts/anchors did you use? What was the spacing between the bolts? Do you have any issues with water drainage with the strut channels blocking the flow to the side of the camper?
Thanks for the comment Bruce and the good questions!
I just screwed the channel to the roof using the same bolts that came with the solar panel angle mounts. The screws are fairly heavy electro-galvanized grabber bolts and they attach very securely in to the roof deck and roof trusses. I got a roof plan from the RV manufacturer so I knew where the roof trusses were and then I spaced the bolts about every other roof truss. I put a blob of DAP down first, screwed through the DAP and then put another blob on top of the bolt head to ensure it sealed well. I have not had any problem with drainage. The water just drains to the back of the coach and then to the gutters.
@@travelnewtrails8232 Thank you for this video and post! This is a great improvement on my idea of using Eternabond to attach U- or C-channels to the roof (for more surface area), then screwing solar panel mounts to the channel for security. Using strut channels is even more screwless and more flexible.
What do you think of using Eternabond instead of screwing the strut channels to the roof?
Also, I just ordered 200W 24V panels from Newpowa for double the wattage from the same MPPT controller and AWG wire. It matters when using expensive solar charge controllers like Victron!
@@travelnewtrails8232 i was worrying that with vibration and flex the channel would rub against the roof, thinking to use neoprene or something to use as a barrier or some method to raise the channel - i have a curved roof anyway so i may have to go that direction, any ideas for a good raised roof mount?
Hi Bruce. Check out my followup videos. ( czcams.com/video/aO3SSkT4CwU/video.html , czcams.com/video/kcVaNkxEHXc/video.html ) I go into more detail and answer a lot of questions asked in the comments.
Any leaks yet ?
The struts are also available in aluminum (50% more cost) or stainless steel (6 times more cost). Thanks for the video.
Thanks!
Yep, the cost for the aluminum strut channel is similar to the cost of the galvanized+powder coating. I don't think I would go with stainless. I would need to do a better cost analysis next time I do an install to decide between aluminum and galvanized+powder coat. There are some additional advantages of powder coat though.
@@travelnewtrails8232 You may want to check the cost comparison between steel and aluminum. Granger shows that aluminum is less then steel.
Slotted Standard 1-5/8 in x 13/16 in Strut Channel, Aluminum, 14 ga., 10 ft $31.25 ea
Slotted Standard 1-5/8 in x 13/16 in Strut Channel, Pre-Galvanized Steel, 14 ga., 10 ft $35.75 ea
@@jimthode I'll check it out. Thanks.
I would go aluminum, especially if anodized. Steel will eventually start to rust where fasteners bite, at cuts, and likely underneath where moisture is trapped.
I like being able to pivot the panels easily for cleaning. Angling toward sun isn't likely to net benefit, would need auto sun tracking to see improvements.
I personally think a low profile mounting is way to go, and better to go larger panels to simplify mounting overall.
@@travelnewtrails8232 -- Not really. Powder Coating always seems to start breaking off over time. I personally would go with aluminum.
Thank you!!!! We're in the middle of our cargo trailer build and have been trying to figure out how to get the solar panels to tilt. Perfect plan!! I'm grateful for the information. Saving the video for our build 😊
Awesome! Good luck with your build.
Great video with a lot of good information I am fixing to start building a cargo trailer. I am just waiting on the delivery now so I will definitely be using this idea for my panels and I will look forward to looking at your other videos
Real easy to install on a cargo trailer.
Thanks! Good luck on your install.
This is great! This is almost exactly the sort of set up i was trying to design in my head in a theoretical manner due to not having yet bought a trailer ! But you are spot on target for the same factors I'm aiming for, the adaptability ( rather than using the term flexible cause its not) of the struts & the cooler air flow system & accessibility & ease of squeegee access thanks to being able to tilt them, meaning up, angle them, down, use my full size picnic table to stand on & professional extension handled tools, move the table once after washing & drying , finish up. Take a rest , back up, reset angle, back down! I'm somewhat handicapped & need a set up that allows me to supervise whomever I'll be paying to do this so it needs a very simple system ! Lol & I'll be including a clip on soapy h2o deflector so it wont filthify ( not a word? Idc! Its what i mean!) the trailer in the process of the cleaning . I intend to be generous with the coiled stretchy cables i intend to use to allow the panels to be lifted without putting strain & use simple releasable connectors so if the panels need to be off the trailer for sun to be able to hit directly, it should be easy to do! I hope!
Wow you’re the guy that came up with this idea.
This is a brilliant idea. By being able to adjust the position of the panels, its possible to avoid shade.
However, the wire would have to be in some kind of weather resistant flexible conduit.
The wire is rated for external use. Also it is run under the panels where ever possible to minimize its exposure to the sun.
Most valuable video I’ve found on attaching solar. Thanks for this video.
Glad it was helpful!
You have good information. I have a box van that I am converting into a RV. My solar panels are attached to unistrut that I bolted on top of a ladder rack. As you pointed out, most solar panels that I see are mounted too close to the roof. My Grape Solar panels recommended a minimum of four inches clearance between the back face and the roof. I chose the hot dipped galvanized finish, it offers better weather protection than the gold zinc coated unistrut but is less expensive than stainless steel unistrut. If my unistrut was in direct contact with my roof, I probably would have done the same thing you did by coating zinc unistrut. Pregalvanized is not galvanized.
We used unistrut at work before i retired. Thanks for sharing your system. I need to know closer the parts you used to mount the panels to the strut. Thanks again it's a lot more versatile than what I had planned.
I included links to all of the components I used in the video description.
I'm really liking your idea there and thinking of doing something similar, though I think I would install a 3/8" spacer between roof and strutt, connection points. That would allow the roof to flex when necessary "stepping between roof joists" and alleviate damming or collection of water on the roof next to strut, preventing corrosion or fatiguing screws into joists. Just wondered if you considered that approach. Very nice video and aproach.
I used 6" strips of LLPT double sided tape to mount the channels. I left 2 " gap before laying another 6" piece to allow water to flow. I initially used the panel feet with the channels but when I upgraded with wider panels I just placed the mounting feet on each end of the panels rather than the sides and clamped them in the channels without issue. I sold the camper last summer after 5 years without issue. Another benefit of using double sided tape was no flex wear on the roof from the channels which happened to a friend of mine that screwed the channels into the roof.
@@rangervapes571 Thought about using tape as well, but decided against it, the reason being is it would only be attached to the membrane of the roof. With proper installation of mounts, there is zero chance of moisture intrusion. Although just like any moisture barrier it must be routinely inspected and repaired as necessary. The problem folks have with leaking is poorly installed roof membrane and or sealant application from the manufacturer, and lack of maintenance from the owner. Best of luck to you with your installation, spring is around the corner, enjoy.
Excellent points
Very interesting video. Good job! In case you haven't noticed, the mountain views from your house are REDICULOUS!!! Nice hat, by the way! Tony has one just like it. We're looking forward to future videos. Say hi to the fam, especially "The Boy". Happy camping & safe travels! Tony & Monica's Plan B, Michigan
Yes, we do notice our view, though probably not as often as we should. It’s nice to be reminded of how good we have it from time to time. ;-)
Wow man you are a Genius!! Good job! And thank you for the the wonderful information!!
Thant you! I'm glad you found it useful.
Just found this video! Excellent idea, and explanation, thank you for sharing. Epoxy appliance paint holds up well outdoors. You might think about using rivet nuts on your angle pieces that hold up the panel when tilted instead of the wing nuts and washers. It is less parts to lose and it would make for faster set up/tear down.
Glad I found your channel... getting ready to add solar. Thanx, -keith
This inspired my a ha moment also great job I have been installing pv with uni strut for ground mounts but you sparked my thoughts in the right direction for my 5th wheel .two thumbs up thank you
WooHoo!! I love good a ha moments. Too bad I can't patent the idea and make some $ ;-)
Cool concept, would just like to see at least a half inch nylon washer space between the roof and your strut channel to allow for ice and water. I also like how you can adjust your panels angle for better performance once you park and decide to stay somewhere for a while.
I think it’s a great idea!! Thanks for making the video!!
Very nice system I am going to do the same to mine. Thank you for the video... I am going to video when i install it too. hope you don't mind.. Best idea for solar install on an RV ive seen yet.
Glad you liked it! That’s why I wanted to share it. I think the word needs to get around. BTW, it’s not just limited to solar panel installs, anything you need to install on your roof can take advantage of this, satellite dishes, attachment point for a cell/WiFi booster, etc. I really think RV manufactures should put these on at the factory.
Check out my followup videos. ( czcams.com/video/aO3SSkT4CwU/video.html , czcams.com/video/kcVaNkxEHXc/video.html ) They have more details and I answer a lot of questions asked in the comments.
Excellent video ! One of my up coming tasks and your clear and concise information is a game changer for me. Thank you so much. Saving video. 👍🏻😁
What was your channel & channel nut source ? What size did you use ?
I bought the strut channel and cone nuts at my local Lowe's hardware store.
Nice. Showing how channels were attached and sealed would be great. Showing how roof penetration for wiring was handled and sealed would be supreme.
I thought about doing an "installation" video but it was to much of a pain to try to do the install and video at the same time and I wasn't getting a heck of a lot of help from my teenager. ;-)
The strut channel was screwed to the roof through the holes that are in the bottom of the channel. I aligned them to make sure I screwed into the roof trusses. Before driving a screw I would put a large blob of LAP sealant down and then drive the screw through it. Then I would come back and put another large blob of LAP on top of the screw head to seal everything well.
The wiring to the roof was done at the factory. All Grand Design trailers Reflection on up are coming pre-wired to the roof starting with model year 2020.
I love the system for installation you have, But, That panel mount is for up to a 120 Watt Panel I learned. It fits my 200W panels but has two different lengths of angle rails 22" and 28". When installing the 200W panel you can't get your mitts on the knobs when the panels are lowered and mounted end to end.
OMG... absolutely brilliant!!!
Thank-you for sharing!
Thanks Steve! Glad you liked it.
Hey thanks for this! I attached my panels the same way and I am really glad I did.
How did you actually attach the strut channels to the roof?
@@pretending2bworking1 - also interested in knowing what type of bolts were used to attach the struts to the roof as well. Can't seem to get an answer for some reason.
@watchman G
He mentioned in the video that he used the screws which were delivered with the mount brackets
@@pretending2bworking1 I just drilled some holes in some of the solid parts of the strut channel and used screws, and lots of lap sealant both under the strut channel (before putting it down) and on top of the screws.
I am a retired California licensed commercial/industrial electrician and used the galvanized shallow strut channel outside for 30 years to mount and support equipment. The Galvanizing of the channel keeps the strut from rusting. The only time you need to spray the channel with galvanizing spray paint is when you cut and file any burrs from your cut. This will keep the cut metal from rusting. You get no value in powder coating your channel.
Chris.
You are correct, Chris. However, powder coating significantly reduces galvanic corrosion. He's attaching aluminum to steel - and adding water (rain and snow). Would have been better (and cheaper) to completely eliminate the aluminum angle and replace it with unistrut and galvanized steel pivot brackets. No need for powder coating. No corrosion.
Good job! I was thinking about these shallow unistrut rails. I have seen similar setup before, but didn't pay close attention his the lifting is done. I see there are two L shape profiles. Rails are the way to go. Drilling dozens of holes in roof is sloppy and asking for troubles ;)
man i really like your idea /i am thankful you posted this for rv people /a simple smart idea /an a way to tilt the panels too /simple but great /no junkie idea /i am very appreceive /i am subscribed to your channel /thank you so much /keep the good ideas coming /thanks-thanks
Thanks Ron!
WOW!!! THANK YOU!!!! 😊🙏 What a blessing, I've been looking for just the right way to install!!!
You're welcome!! Glad you found it useful.
Check out my followup videos where I go into more detail and answer a lot of questions asked in the comments. ( czcams.com/video/aO3SSkT4CwU/video.html , czcams.com/video/kcVaNkxEHXc/video.html )
Great Video Ron, wish you had done this prior to my recent install. Makes me want to go pull up my panels and redo the mounting. Seems to happen a lot though new ideas new tech.
Yeah, after I did the install and made the video I discovered they make Strut Channel in aluminum as well. Oh well, I really love the powder coated steel that I got. Just reinforces your comment that you are always learning new stuff and discovering better ways to do things.
@@travelnewtrails8232 Also made in stainless steel and fiberglass. Check with any electrical distributor in your area. They probably won’t stock the items unless you’re near the coast (or any other corrosive environment). They can order for you.
@@paulfahrenthold2980 Any opinion on the fiberglass. I'm getting ready to add Solar. Thanking you in advance, -keith
@@keithnorris8982 sorry for the late reply. Fiberglass strut is very expensive and most distributors would need to special order.
@@paulfahrenthold2980 Thanx Paul, -keith
Awesome idea mate! Thanks from Australia
Thank you for the video, Great job on the install
Very nice and tidy installation. Thanks for sharing.
Hi Ty. Thanks for watching! Make sure you watch the followup videos as well. ( czcams.com/video/aO3SSkT4CwU/video.html , czcams.com/video/kcVaNkxEHXc/video.html )
Thanks! I was wondering the best way to do it!
Great video! love the Idea. Also love those mountains. I have those same mountains to look at, they are wonderful.
Hi Tyler. Glad you liked the video. Make sure you check out the two followup videos I made ( czcams.com/video/aO3SSkT4CwU/video.html , czcams.com/video/kcVaNkxEHXc/video.html ). Yes, I do love out mountains :-) .
i live close to mt’s but mostly never see them do to clouds and/ or smoke (fires) or just smog.
but at least i get cal weather. 🤪
Thank you Ron fantastic idea!
You are very welcome! Glad you liked it.
One of my sons owns a garage door company and I've been studying their opening systems to figure out how to build a Solar Panel raising system by using the cross shaft that the garage springs mount to the house headers via bearing mounted brackets. Thinking of using the angle brackets that actully are used on openers when attached to the doors and bellcranks. I think the pulleys can be converted to push pull that bracket, and with that bracket attached to the solar array it can lift them on one side like you are doing with the manual prop up arms. And with those shaft bearings they can handle a lot of torque and loading. Plus multiple pulleys/ bell cranks and brackets you could use one arm between two panels + on the ends and get a very strong wind resistance lifting system. And the turning/ rotating/ lifting mechanism could be as easy as using a 12 volt electric winch with or without the cable to raise and lower.
My thoughts are to eliminate the winch drum and cable and attach the winch motor directly to the end of the cross tube and put stop switches in the full down and full up positions. This would mean you could easily use a winch motor electric remote control to raise and lower the solar panels from the ground. Basically a low budget "Jack Shaft Opener". And all 12 volt!
I have a lot more ideas that expand on that design that would also make the panels capable of sun tracking by mounting the panels to ao=nother cross shaft at the panel centers and some small accuators to do the angle changes from there.
Good Video, and I will definitly be borrow some of your builds ideas after I get my Bus back on the road. ((Priority) New Upgraded Transmission going in)
Good thinking.
Awesome video! I’m going to be tackling this challenge within the month
Awesome! Good luck. You will love it.
Check out my followup videos ( czcams.com/video/aO3SSkT4CwU/video.html , czcams.com/video/kcVaNkxEHXc/video.html ). They have more details and answer a lot of the questions asked in the comments.
I use plastic zip ties to the roof rack. I drilled holes through the aluminum frame of the solar panels. I can tie them on with parachute shroud too.
Great idea. Thanks for sharing.
Very Nice presentation. Thank you! I just finished mounting (2) 250W panels but without the tilt brackets at this time. I had to use the strut channels as my RV roof from Heartland had 48" spacing between the aluminum rafters. The roof has 1/4 plywood and styrofoam everywhere else and would not hold the panels property. I used the Z brackets you mentioned directly to the struts, (3) 6' sections. I ended up using 3 strut channels to mount side by side vs the length of the RV as items like the fridge vents TV were in the way. The curve of the roof was not an issue as the panels just lean left and right by about a 1/2". Heartland does not supply any information to the customer as to locations or layout of the roof. They only have a brochure that shows how the roof was made. I had to use a Walabot Plus to locate the rafters. I have a 30' TT Northwind. I wish I found your video earlier as it was a 3 month hair pulling experience to get this engineered out as I did not want to damage the membrane but needed the support to hold two large 61"x31" Sunpower SPR-X20-250-BLK panels. The thought of the panels ripping off at 60 MPH causing possible catastrophic damage to others on the road let alone my TT would kill me.
Thanks Andy! I’m glad you found the video useful. Good luck with your system.
Andy how do you like the Sunpower panels?
@Yasso Karim so far they are awesome
They hold up to 70mph passing speed on the highway, (tires on RV rated at 65 but I cheat for passing very briefly) and I am able to get 88% or 440W under full sun / peak sun here in Phoenix AZ at 78° F. Yes they are re claimed used to me from a company called Santan Solar at $55.00 each. Their size allows room on the roof to walk around to clean the panels.
I'm in the planing stages of mine, this is helpful. BTW I love those mountains in the background. Looks like Salt Lake City. I'd love to hike up some 10,000 ft + summits
Close, Utah Valley actually. Good luck on your install.
great idea, i will put this in my bag of tricks. but it would have been nice to see you mount the channel to the roof.
This is a very good idea and has so many benefits, well thought out and executed.
Sub earned and I will definitely be keeping an eye on the channel. Again well done...
Thank you very much!
Thank you, very well thought out.
You're very welcome and thank you.
GENIUS! THANK YOU!
I did something similar, but instead of using those struts I used roof ladder racks which bolt into the sides of the trailer -- the thing I like about that is it doesn't require me to bolt things to the roof itself, which decreases the chance of water damage. It also puts the panel a bit further above the roof (if you want it to) which allows more airflow, which allows better cooling which can let the panels last longer. You do need to make sure the wind load on the panels isn't below average, but most can handle it fine (an engineer friend of mine ran the numbers and I'd be fine up to something like 130mph, as though I can pull it that fast anyway.... =])
What brand of roof rack did you use?
I was thinking about something like that! great to hear that it works!
Thank you so much for the Amazing info!!! Amazing video
Thank you very much for sharing! It's awesome!!
Thank you and you are welcome!
Great video and great way of doing it. I am in the process of buying my 5th wheel and your setup gives me many ideas. My only concern is drilling holes on the roof. I will find a way of not drilling holes on the roof, cause there's got to be something out there that will allow you to do it. Thanks.
Hi Soy, thanks for the comment.
Depending on the roof of your rig there might be other options. If you have a metal or fiberglass roof you could use 3M VHB tape to attach the strut channel. I'm not sure I would do that on roofs that have a roof membrane on them though. Drilling holes in the roof can be scary however if you do it right there is nothing to worry about. Just make sure you screw into the roof trusses and make sure you put a good blob of LAP sealant down, screw through it and then put a big blob on top the the screws. That will seal the roof just fine.
Great idea, thanks for sharing it with us!
Thanks! You are very welcome. I also love finding great ideas shared by other people and am glad I have something to contribute back.
I am just in the process of installing solar panels on my RV, and utilized the unistrut idea with great results. This is my first install, and I have been watching CZcams videos to help me do it right the first time. Your video helped a lot, I give you the credit for my great install.
This is so helpful! thank you!
Thanks! Glad you liked it.
Great idea
Nice video- thanks for sharing- I'm thinking I may use a combination of flip up rigid panels along with some flexible panels attached to the roof- great idea of your strut- will def consider using that system- Your powder coating touch is nice- due to weight and corrosion issues I think I'll use an aluminum strut and possibly even elevate it slightly as another viewer commented earlier. Thanks and happy RVing!
Don't get flexible. They don't dissipate heat and get Hotspots. A year is the most you'll get out of them, and if you bend them more then 30 degrees you risk permanent damage. Just get solid make a good array. You'll thank me later.
@@enki2gold Thanks for your feedback- I realize heat can be a problem- def paying attention to the temperature coefficient- I'm also exploring what light weight, flexible perforated materiel is available to mount them on that allows the back to breath/cool- I'm also probably going to use rigid panels and dual axis solar tracker with multiple panels per tracker- currently trying to figure out a system that retracts the pole that holds the rack down into my RV so the panels can go back to flat near the roof for traveling. Also looking to incorporate some vertical wind generators as well for those cloudy days- I def appreciate your feedback. My battery bank is LiFePo 1600 AH at 12v- will be 800AH with my 24 v system- so it's large and I need all the juice I can get to take advantage of it.
Dam you gave me the key to my Casita roof top solar build. I will need to have the una strut raised abut 17 inches. off the location where the support locations on a fiberglass rv that has been refereed to as an egg.
That’s what I used on my Ford Transit Van. Very easy to install on the van. The cross braces can be moved anywhere on the rails which makes it easy to install any size panels. The Unistrut/Superstrut rails cost about $20 each at Home Depot or Lowe’s. They are 10 feet long. Many different fittings are available. Mine have been on the roof for over three years with no sign of rust or corrosion. I have 10ft rails running down both sides. I used four cross rails that are about 5 ½ ft long. To adjust the height to clear the roof just use “L” brackets on the main rails. No holes need to be drilled on a Transit Van since the bolt holes are pre-installed. Just remove the rubber caps. The nuts and bolts for assembly come in three sizes, ¼, ⅜ or ½ inch. I used ⅜ but that is really overkill. I used ¼ “ on my cargo trailer and I think that is big enough.
Awesome! Thanks for sharing how you did it.
what gauge strut did you use? how beefy is the strut going across the van, can you put a deck up there to sit on? Wondering if they would hold that weight?
Thanks for that info, I’ll check for bolt holes on my transit 350!
awesome thanks will be doing this but with rivet nuts into my Cargo Tailer roof with 1/2" standoff to float the channel.
I thought about floating the channel off the roof in my install as well but decided against it for a few reasons. 1) Having the channel right against the roof allows all forces to be applied to the roof across the entire length of the channel rather that just on the "risers" that it would be attached to. I figured that would make it more structural sound. 2) I didn't want to raise everything any higher off the roof than I needed to.
Awesome video.
Thanks!
thank you very helpful happy trail
You could add a small section of flashing to the end of the panels towards the front to prevent air from trying to lift the panels while driving.
i think if you force the air upward you would get more lift than with the air going over and under the panels.
Lift is good......Less friction on the road......better on gas......HAHA
Just checked Home Depot. Green powder coated strut same price as galvanized.
Great idea and very flexible system for maintenance and/or expansion
The green powder coated from Home Depot are what I purchased. They'll be under the panels, which are on top of the roof, so I'm not concerned about the color.
Damn thanks man doing this on my van!! Been going through so many ways
Awesome! Glad is was helpful. Good Luck.
I watched the video and was sold to the idea. Then I read the comments and thought that those who raised the water drainage concern made an excellent point. I was mulling this over in my head and had this potential improvement that I am putting out here for review and criticism: what about putting a certain number of flat stainless washers between the track and roof? Benefits: 1) leaves room for the water to drain under the track; 2) washer count can be adjusted to account for minor roof curvature. What do you all think.
Would love to see some discussion of this idea!
@@bee3po122 I have my panels being delivered today, and will be mounting them wither this weekend or the one following. I will post pictures. Meanwhile, I decided to make blocks of 3/4"X3" by 3" out of PVC boards (since I have leftovers). These provide more surface and stability to put the track on, and will not rust or rot. I plan to use 1 1/2" stainless steel screws to go through strut, block, decking and into the aluminum trusses that my RV roof is set on, Planner to locate trusses, pre-drill hole and dry mount, then remove everything, put Dicor under the blocks, on the track where it touches the blocks, and in the drill hole, and finally over the stainless screws at the very end.
I though about floating the channel off of the roof but decided against it for a few reasons. One is that with the strut channel against the roof all of the forces that are being applied to it will be evenly distributed along the roof along the entire length of the strut channel segments. If they are floated off of the roof then those forces will be directed onto the roof only on the risers. I'm not convinced that a RV roof was designed to support these directed forces so I took the route that I did.
Regarding drainage, I have not seen any problems with that at all and I have been in some downpours. The water ends up just draining either forward or rearward and then to the side and ends up still coming off the draining spouts that are attached to the rig at the factory. With snow and ice it is the same. As it melts the water flows the same.
@@travelnewtrails8232 Great points made. I haven't mounted anything yet, so I will mull over your comments. One thing is for sure, I want to do my best to hit the risers, rather than just randomly screw the strut in the roof sheating (which is itself attached to the roof trusses... but has the whole rubber roof acting as a wrapper to eliminate any lifting forces on the sheating...also the struts are perforated throughout. It a tough choice...but I appreciate your feedback relative to the concern about water accumulation.
Cut blocks out of a HDPE 1/4” thick cutting board to raise the strut channel.
Yeah nice idea very helpful!
Thanks!
Thanks for sharing 👍
Thanks for watching!
Bellissimo sistema! Noi in Italia incolliamo le staffe al tetto del camper!!
Grazie!
Nice work
The unistrut can also be purchased made of aluminum or Hugh grade chemical resistant plastic. We use it in high chemical areas like water processing plants, battery back up rooms high acidic or corrosive environments.
Also you can get what’s called unistrut conduit clamps and can run conduit with the wiring inside to keep the wiring out of the sun. The sun, rain and elements will degrade the plastic sheathing on the wiring and make it harden crack and eventually crumble unless it’s designed to be outdoor …the elements will degrade it. Other than that I like it. I may do that to my Avion as I was researching ideas how to mount and the unistrut was what I was gonna use.
Nice, thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
SUGGESTION: Cover those exposed wires on your roof with a UV protected shielding; so that they last longer.
suggestion for material?
Great video. Thank you from Colorado.
Good Point. That PV rated wire will only last a couple 100 years in the sun...
Great idea!!!
Thanks!
Great idea! And I guess you could put the panels in the middle of the brackets so it would be easier to tilt them in both directions.
True. I didn't think about that until I had everything mounted and didn't want to go back and change it. ;-) Maybe I will in the future. I still haven't actually titled the panels when out boodocking yet so I haven't really run into the inconvenience.
@@travelnewtrails8232 No worries, I cannot tell you how many times I did something , only to think of a better way AFTER I was done! lol
I set mine up to tilt both ways but I think I only tilted them once. Its a bit of a pain in the butt unless you plan on staying at one place for more than say, 3 days.
Oh, and I just remounted my biggest panel about 8 inches higher so my air conditioning would not throw shade on it half the day. so, there ya go. :)
You might wanted to discuss the roof penetration and prep work. And way less about power coating. Maybe how often and where those were. And how about sealing against elements. And if you do use un powder coated about dissimilar metals and rust. Then let's have a little discussion about loose wiring rubbing on that roof of yours. Ideally you want to run it from the outside straight back to the inside track then down the track so that you can tilt both directions and then run it down the uni track so no movement or ware from rubbing. And not a big game changer but maybe running the cross brace all the way to the front of the panels to prevent lift. Then how about a small angel piece at the front making a wing shape for less drag. And you have a angle of attack happening as your roof is a slanted. So effectively you just put a wing on top of your roof with no equalizing effect so pulling or lift on your roof witch was not engineered stress load but the shear weight of the system is probably a null effect. But brings me to the other topic of weight added at the top of your stability for tipping. And then the gross weight deduction on your allowance for cargo. So your adding about 200 to 250lbs of weight to each side of your roof. So deduct that weight from your allowance for cargo. A good idea is to weight your rig before you start this build and after so you get an idea of how much you changed your center of gravity. If your batteries and the rest of your system weight is 2x more than your rooftop addition than stability effect is probably diminish greatly ( more like 5 to 1) depending on height off the ground. Remember all this is calculated from the center of axle and were talking about 8' height at 3.5' off center of gravity. So more. Important to be even in weight for the right and left side of the rig. Just my 2 cents worth as an engineer and A&P mechanic. On my rig (1970 airstream trailer 26') I first ordered axel upgrade (don't over do! As to much = exssive vibration and shaking) I went from 2800lbs axels(2x) to 3500lbs axels. As my build will add about 1200lbs to my gross weight still leaving me 1200lbs of cargo. And I treated it like CG calculated like airplanes with about 500 to 600lbs tongue weight finsh goal. I am adding 327lbs ish ( gave it 350 for other upgrades) to roof load. For panels rack vented sky light and upgrade vent fans. I am also going air suspension with shocks and height adjustable ride for street vs off-roading (adding an additional 83lbs of weight but low at axel so better stability of CG. And moved tanks and batteries centered between axels so less change in tongue weight. And mounted under flooring at just above axels and added 112lbs of frame structure for metal fatigue and batteries/tank support/ protection ( boondocking). So a little more evolved than just bolting on some unistut. Now he didn't mention that you can get all that in aluminum at a 30 to 50% weight savings and in to different heights 13/16" and 1 5/8" in both. Note aluminum is 50% less strength in sheer( pulling off) but more than a 6x multiplier of safty. www.unistrut.biz/aluminum-unistrut/. Roughly 1/2 the weight. And aluminum takes 12000 years to decompose but care for dissimilar metals need to be addressed(silicone barriers). Please edit your videos as most know the benefits of powder coating and didn't need to here you bring it up 6+ times. And yes you flushed money 💰 down the toilet, as I have seen unistut in the outside sea air for over 20yrs with little effect except dissimilar metals contact points. Which now most products at your DYI store sell are coated correctly. So a trip up on the roof after a winter outside will give you an indication of what needs to be addressed with little cleanup and prep for updates in that area. Over all good build, poor presentation and delivery and insufficient information regarding installation for DYI's but points for attempt. Over all I would grade a "D" no safty or towing given for consideration or weight adjustmentto live loads/ gross loads. No attachment specified to roof top, but all other connections points for all other hardware(condos and brownies points there) done well. So in future videos bullets points and editing did not need to be 20 mins. Should try to keep to 5 mins or under. So you have had almost 100k views but 2.5k likes that should tell you something. Now people don't get me wrong there was good information here just felt like waisted 15mins of my time and still not enough information to do the install correctly. And no safty disclaimer!