GMC Truck Electrical Error Fix
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- čas přidán 19. 05. 2016
- I had a problem where electrical components just freaked out for no reason. The flashers would go on, the door locks would go up and down, the airbag light would go on, and the fuel pump would go on and off, right when I was going down the road. This is how I seemed to have fixed it.
This is a related GM Service Bulletin:
#PIT4816: Multiple Electrical Concerns With DTC C0900 - keywords battery c/k cable clock crank cycle door dimming flicker gage gauge gmc hvac inop inoperative instrument ipc lock no panel power radio stall - (Feb 27, 2009)
Subject: Multiple Electrical Concerns With DTC C0900
Models: 2007 -2009 Cadillac Escalade, ESV, EXT
2007-2009 Chevrolet Avalanche, Silverado, Suburban, Tahoe
2007-2009 GMC Sierra, Yukon, Yukon Denali, Yukon XL, Yukon Denali XL
(Equipped with Gasoline Engines)
The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.
Condition/Concern:
Some customer may experience one or all of the following concerns.
1) Intermittent No Crank or No Vehicle Power ( The customer may get the impression that the vehicle actually has a dead battery )
2) Volt gauge fluctuates, and seems to decrease when a high load accessory is turned on ie.. headlamps, wipers
3) IPC backlighting flickers or IPC goes blank
4) Diagnostic Code: B1325 set in several modules followed with a Dtc: C0900 set in the EBCM.
5) Radio clock resets
6) Intermittent Stall
7) Hvac temperature actuator defaults to hot
8) Door locks cycle
Recommendation/Instructions:
If you experience one or all of the following concerns and a cause for the concern can't be identified, please check the following items:
1) Remove the 175 amp Mega fuse and inspect for arcing, if any type of arcing is found replace the effected components.
2) When re-installing the 175 amp Mega fuse, torque fasteners that attach the mega fuse to the positive cables to specification in SI.
3) Check the voltage drop reading on the positive and negative battery cables. The voltage drop should be performed with the fuel injectors disabled and while cranking the engine. The voltage drop should not exceed 200 mV. If the voltage drop is above 200 mV, replaced the effected cable.
Please follow this diagnostic or repair process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
This saved me from dropping hundreds/thousands of dollars to the incompetent dealerships that couldn't diagnose this issue. I spent $15 and now all my electrical problems are fixed. Thank you so much for this!!
Great - Keep those older cars running! I love not having a car payment -- and if we can do it without paying the dealerships a ton to keep them going, all the better.
Ditto what Albert said, I was just guessing a shop repair would be at least 600 bucks to clear C0899 and U1826 codes plus one other. I took apart the fuse link at the firewall like you did and it looked suspect, why the hell it's not sealed I couldn't tell ya. Anyway I replaced some of the brass nuts and one stud, cleaned all the surfaces with steel wool and reassembled with a little die electric grease on all surfaces. I also took off the negative block to ground at the rear of the engine at the firewall and did the same. Like you, I think that rear bolt on the block would have to be a 10mm double back offset combo bfr on a protracted gimble to get to, didn't do it. But I did use the grease on everything I removed and replaced and polished. Checked again and cleared the codes and BAM!!! all good! I really appreciate your posting this video and need to know where to mail the $600.00...;) cheers mate.
Just got done doing this exact thing a few mins ago to my '08 suburban. Hoping it fixes my issues. Time will tell. If it did, $10 just save me hundreds as well. Thank you for the video, great job of explaining things. Super helpful.
@@brianrink1379 iij ok
Hello , great video ! I have to ask, what kind of screw did you use to attach the cable to the engine?
A buddy of mine told me a funny thing about grounds once, he said here in the states the majority of folks tend to chase problems on the positive side first when troubleshooting, but in Europe they always start with the ground. I wished someone had shared that with me a lot sooner in life. It would have save me a ton of cash and a lot of headaches. Ground straps between engine and body were the root cause of two of them. Great job diagnosing!!!
This video actually helped me a lot. My Cadillac Escalade interior lights been glitching and my windows roll down and up so slow. After watching this video I looked under the hood and yup the copper ground on the driver side was cut in half lol so went and bought a universal ground, now everything seems fine my windows rolls down and up pretty fast. Thanks to this guy💯
Great video...I did this 2 weeks ago and haven't had a problem since. I purchased the GM ground strap for $18 from the dealership. I will put that on this week to confirm if it was that bad ground strap. But for now this fix got me home after a 5 hour drive. THANK YOU
Replaced the Megafuse and negative cable from battery to body and this worked so far. Great savings and troubleshooting shortcut...thanks for sharing.
How did you replace it
Thank you for this video!! Added a ground cable after watching this and fixed all my issues as well!
About 4 years ago, I had to replace my throttle body. It was super easy and all was good. About 2 months later, I go out to a completely dead truck. I replaced the battery, it was due anyway. Still nothing. Over a week goes by and my neighbor just happened to walk by while on the phone with a friend that was a mechanic. Mega fuse!!! I had no idea there even was a mega fuse. $4 later, truck was alive again. But after that, but not all at once, I started have throttle body issues again and all my communications were and are throwing code. I’d take care of one thing and then another pops up. Just got another battery, I think I’ll check the mega again and see if that is arcing. If not I guess I’m checking my grounds.
Thank you for getting straight to the point and making this repair easy to understand.
I was having this same problem on my 2011 Silverado. I followed your directions and sure enough it worked. Thanx for the tip.
Please sir, what kind of screw did you use to attach the wire to the engine block ?
Sorry I took so long to respond. Well it worked at first for about a week then continued doing the same thing. So together with my mechanic we followed all the lines and cleaned up all the grounds and sure enough we found one that was filthy and full of crud. So we cleaned them all and sure I haven’t had the problem since then.
Absolutely works! Same year and model, same issues. It seems to have corrected the other warnings on the dash indicator as well (tire sensors and the engine light). Only an hour into fixing this. So glad my truck won't turn into an electric demon on the highway again.
What kind of screw to attach the cable to the engine ?
Wow thank you so much for taking time to make this I’ve had this prob and changed the alternater to no good still had the same prob I just looked and mine was completely disconnected!
You sir, are an absolute blessing! Thank God for people like you in the world. Thank you kindly!
Excellent. Diligent research with an application of logic. Well done sir.
Nice work.I an a tech in the field, no I don't work for a dealership. But I did learn another tech tip from your video. thank you
2013 Chevrolet Silverado 1500: this fixed all of my issues after scratching my head for over 3 days. Thanks XORBob!
What kind of screw do you use to attach the wire to engine?
@@theoamos4335 lo
I can’t even tell you how estatic I am from this video lol. Helped a lot
Nice job. As a professional intermittent electrical issues can be a bear. you stated that you lost acceleration. In my experience the engine stays running but the transmission goes in to neutral when the electrical problem happens. radio reset, door locks going hay wire, instrument cluster going nuts also.
I have had this problem on and off for the last year and a half. Owned the truck for 6 years and the electrical issue's have occurred since Oct. 2015. I have had the truck into three different dealership's 6 time's and they have not been able to give me any resolution's. The last dealership I visited was this past Fri.. They told me it would cost over $300 to try and figure out problem. They would start with replacing ignition. Thanks for this video. I will try this! ( Cost so far is well over $350 and I still have the problem.) This past Saturday it happened again. Am taking truck to local (non-dealership) auto repair shop with this video. THANKS again for posting!!!!! Worth a try!
What was the out come
Good video. Adding the extra strap was a good idea. I have one suggestion. After cleaning you should have applied a liberal coating of dielectric grease. The grease will help to keep the problem from reoccurring, by sealing out moisture and reducing oxidation.
ThAnk you I’m having same issues man exactly , 08 Sierra 1500 , I’ve cleaned all of those grounds as well as the maga fuse still nothing but hadn’t got to that strap yet , I had added extra grounds from battery to firewall and battery to frame , I think you just told me where my problem is !
PCM to cylinder head is the way I have heard is preferred along with your other body / chasis grounds. I just learned about these mega fuses and added one to my 68 firebird with ls1.
Thank you for awesome video I am having similar issues with my Tahoe. I will look into that.
I used a exhaust manifold repair bracket on the last bolt that broke off the exhaust manifold on the driver side side rear and it bolts to the head well that's where my body to motor ground was I sanded the black paint off the bracket to bare metal and attached the ground along with the bracket and it worked for a couple starts then it just clicked no start. I moved the ground to a empty bolt hole just above the spark plugs 08 gmc sierra 2500 6.0 Ly6 works great now and no exhaust leak
I did this the exact same way with my 2012 Sierra. Works perfectly! Thanks
I feel I have finally found an answer to what my 03 gmc savana van has been experiencing for the last 2 years! I have replaced 2 batteries and a starter. No one can figure why it wont't start at times or why my inside power goes out. I will try this tomorrow! Thank you so much for sharing! This has been so frustrating dealing with!!
Did it fix your issue?
Thanks for the video. Same issue in a GMC Sierra 2009 . The truck can’t even star sometimes after this crazy electrical shaking even with a new battery .I will try your fix
This video was very helpful. Thank you very much.
Thanks for sharing...parked for a week and fixed it today. Much appreciated!
Thank you. It's a start for me. One issue for me was the wires that connected to the transmission, replaced wires and fixed part of problem but still have issues with fuel gauge which I replaced pump already still problem. I'll check what you shared, Thank you.
I think this may have worked. Thank you so much!
This got me out of a spot as I had this with my Suburban in Europe & towing it wasn’t an option due to where it was parked!
Thanks for your video. This fixed my 09 suburban that was acting crazy and the strap looked fine but I added a cable and haven't had an issue since.
What kind of cable did you replace?
@@bignip2000 I ended up replacing the negative battery cable. It was intermittently bad at the terminal. Still working good.
Thanks a bunch! Seems to have fixed my problem.
Thanks for posting this! Had the same issue and it ended up being the fuse. Added the extra ground cable just in case. Thanks for the tips!
Can u tell what fuse u changed? because I did this ground wire and it didn’t work for me
@@RicRey925 i believe it is called mega fuse it is where the positive battery cables goes
thank ALOT. you just save me a ton of money. I can't thank you enough.
best wishes.
Thanks for sharing - cool logical moniker!
Thank you so much for sharing this!
On my 07 Silverado the factory battery connectors kept coming loose. I chopped them off and replaced them with the standard style battery connectors. Solved the problem and didn’t have any more issues.
Thank you for this video it really works!!
This just happened to my 2010 Silverado while driving on the highway! Was so scary I will check the ground wires when I get home, running fine now but everything was going crazy earlier
god bless you and CZcams this video help put the last peice of the puzzle together after doing a big 3 upgrade
I had a 2007 Yukon doing the same thing...brake light on, check engine light, service stab. light...door locking on its on while driving couldn't drive over 30 mph. After watching your video I added the same ground cable and all was back to normal..thanks
Still working good? Just wondering.
We dont beileve u lol
I have an 04 Denali... Change the one connected to the hood.. Seen the one in this video.. And thought naahh cnt be.. Now u got me 2nd guess will change in the a.m.
Having ABS WHEEL SPEED SENSOR + CRAZY DASH FLICKERING CAN be very troubling ..
A sincere thanks, this video fixed the problem
Great video! I would also put dielectric grease on all of the connection points and run an additional ground from battery to chassis.
AnthonyJ350 Agreed... good input for everyone having this issue
@Carter Edison If the leads go to the battery yes on the loop. If from cab to chassis or cylinder head, you don't.
I'm having same problem except I kinda know how I messed mine up by trying to get power from Bcm only driver door. And now I'm having all these problems + acts up when driving on freeway I think it dropped gears. Your video did help me find a bad ground wire from battery to engine so I'll change that but for sure will be my Bcm. Crossing my fingers it's a ground problem
I just bought a 2009 GMC 1500 and it has some random electrical problems so I'm gonna trace the groundwires and see what I can find, thanks for the video.
I've had a similar problem with a 2008 Chevy Suburban 1500 LTZ. After multiple visits to the dealer the only thing I could do to solve this problem because the dealer was not being helpful. I ended up cutting the positive and negative terminals going to the battery and replacing them with new terminals and never had a problem since then.
Corroded or bad grounds can drive you crazy. Grounds are important on every vehicle. I just fixed a 99 ford super duty with a few electrical issues. Well after fixing three grounds and including making a new ground. Truck runs great
I use dielectric grease on all grounds an battery connections, keeps the oxidation to a minimum.
I’m hoping this is my problem, I already replaced the battery negative cable and it worked for about a week. It’s starting to do the same thing again so this is my last resort before I take it to a shop. Wish me luck 🤞 . Thanks for the info
Thanks for the tip. My 07 Silverado has the same issue. I noticed for my problem if I jiggled the positive cable coming off the battery it would bring back the power but only to have it go out in another week or so. I cleaned all the connections off even though they didn't really have any corrosion. I'll try the grounding strap and see if that helps
I am having the same ishue with my 07. Having to jiggle the hot cable. What ended up fixing yours
You my friend are a hero. Thank you. Thank you.
My 2009 2500HD 6.0 was doing the same thing. Door locks opened and closed, lights got brighter when I accelerated and dimmer when I let off, then the fuel pump would quit and turn back on. Went to a local fab shop had a thicker guage ground wire made it is 6ft long with 3 grounding eye points. No problems since...
I need to do this
MY GOD SIR .... YOUVE DONE IT !!!
GOOD MAN. GOOD MAN .
Thanks this was very helpful.
I have an 07 Silverado that would just loose all power. Determined that it had lost ground. The issue is inside the crimp on the two ground cables at the battery. Clipped em off and installed a new lug on the end of the cable that attaches to the (-) terminal on the batter. $10 fix. Wasn't about to buy another $100 OEM cable to just fail again.
Kurt Schneider I have a 09 Tahoe. Does same. Loose all power after few days. 2 batteries and 2 alternators later same issue. Gonna give what you did a try
thank you , i have a 2008 gmc savana with electrical issues
Hi. My 1994 haves same strap. N im having electrical problems n no start but cranks thanks im doing that today!!! My strap is beat up dwn their as well . thanks
Awesome information!!! Thanks!
you also have another ground in the back of the engine next to the one you connected to the alternator.
its damn difficult to get to it but it runs from the wires on top of the engine to the back and downward just follow the wires.
and it worked, thanks my friend
my truck is doing the same thing lights flicker with blinker and when I tap brakes stereo shuts off and what I read was replace the negative like you did here but also the bcm solders get old and need to be re-soldered.
I had the same problem on a 2008 Chevy Suburban 1500 LTZ where the car would be completely dead. After multiple trips to the dealerships and them not being able to reproduce the problem I found that the positive terminal clamp on the battery was somehow faulty so I had to cut the positive terminal off and completely re crimp new eyes to the leads and then put an aftermarket terminal clamp to the battery. And yes for all that you are commenting about corrosion and Dielectric grease it was perfectly clean perfectly tight and greased and still there were intermittent connection problems. After I cut the old battery terminal off never had the problem again.
Ok I'm walking outside
This video was helpful thanks
Thanks for the vid..definitely was my problem
thank God I found this video
Had bad ground from fuse box to frame..the ground stud broke off (probably overtorqued from factory) and most dashlights warnings came on giving 6 engine codes. The stud break wasn't noticable and had an internal break from long time ago making truck stall and run bad as if it was fuel issue.Was telling me no communication to fuel pump module..o2 sensor bank 2 lean,service brake stabilizer, ABS,ect...
Had the same problem on my 2007 GMC Sierra installed that same ground. problem solved. Thanks man video really helped out 👍🏻
Worked for little while problem is back
I Noticed the Problem only happens after accelerating hard like passing on the freeway.
Ever figure this crap out? Lol.
I also have an 07 Sierra. Mine is a 6.0 2500hd. I've replaced the grounds, cleaned other grounds and still acts up.
Trans goes into limp mode (1st gear) bunch of different codes. Speedometer jumps around etc.
Next day it'll drive just fine
Bra you ever figure it out ?:man I hope so .what was it ????@@MMGJ10
I have had this problem in the past as well. A 1995 GMC Sierra would not shift properly. Fixed the ground from the engine to the chassis and it worked correct until I parked the truck. I am thinking history is repeating itself with my current 2005 Sierra.
that happened to my 09 and they said I had bad ground and replaced the ground from battery to engine. I'm curious what that connection does next to the battery I have to keep it unplug because it drains my battery.
Great video!! Thank you!!!
I cleaned the mega fuse the grounding strap seem ok but should I change it. If it was to fix it would it make the lights go off
I was having the same issue with my 2009 gmc denali sierra. I tried this today. Hopefully this will fix the issue. thank you for sharin.
did you fixt it? i have a 2015 gmc sierra and there is not power, batter and starter are good. its a brand new car btw
2015, you should take it to the dealership and they should cover it. I have a 2009 GMC Sierra Denali and the dealership said because I had just reached 100,000 mile they wouldn't cover anything.
lizeth mtz dealerships don't know shyt about anything .I did on GMC Sierra 2011 5.3 and it fixed it I did 0 gauge bosh wire and now everything running smooth
i did take it to dealership.. just like always they are the the dumbest and made it worse plus they charged me 599 for literary nothing. i did send the car to this foreign electric guy from middle east.. it took him only 2 days to start the car. This guy is a genius.
alondra martinez i did take it to dealership.. just like always they are the the dumbest and made it worse plus they charged me 599 for literary nothing. i did send the car to this foreign electric guy from middle east.. it took him only 2 days to start the car. This guy is a genius.
Great video , what's the length of the cable? I'm gonna buy a the 60 inches thanks and I hope it works on my truck problems
I have 2017 Gmc yukon daneli that was experiencing a host of electrical issues causing display actions to open and close windows, radio turning on, and everything turning black and car shutting off. The car would eventually turn on but would do it again. Bottomline, i believe i traced the problem to a bad ground - the braided ground wire at the connect to the chasis was worn/corroded and not completely broken which must of been causing the sporadic problem.
OH MY GOD...🤙🇺🇸 I just wanna thank you so much like for reals. I had so much headache with my 2011 Sierra cleaned all my negative & positives, & connect a new lead to the alternated block, hasn’t have any issue since- Anyways Thank you again
I have a 2001 Yukon that wouldn't start back up was running crappie before i put new plugs an wires any ideas??
Mine ended up being my steering wheel position sensor that caused mine to act like it was possessed. Locks would go up and down, radio and tv screen would cut on and off, then it would shut the engine on and off. After I replaced the steering wheel sensor, it stopped the electrical problems. I just had to replace my alternator though.
I have seen many issues with ground G104. I many cases, the left headlight is dim.
Well done I solved my problem as well got rid of GM an went 2006 tundra only problem with it is gas mileage but gas is cheaper for the moment
05 Silverado. When rolling 2 or more windows down i lose power, battery light flashes, all my lights dim very noticable. I just went to start it and theres nothing. i tried jumping it with a charger and the brand new (1 month old, expensive) battery is reading 0. if i move the cables around my radio is static and lights are very dim... Truck acts like theres a dead battery.... similar issues? Would this cause the vehicle to not start at all. deffinitely seems to be a ground issue but not sure where they all are.
it's always something small and simply overlooked like the tip i'm looking in to getting a 07-13 gm suv/truck and if i start to see my car acting like it has a ghost playing tricks on me i will look right at the body ground thumbs up from me
thank you for this video. you just saved me over $600. A $8.99 ground wire solved the problem.
What kind of screw do you attach it to the engine with ?
Had the exact same problem 2 years ago. This would happen several time a week.I replaced the battery and fixed the problem. Never happened again. NOW, before all you old schoolers say, "that ridiculous, cause the battery is only used to start the engine". Not in today's vehicles. With all the electronics involved with today's more advanced vehicles the battery is being used intermittently and cycles while the vehicle is in operation.
Just go away
My 2000 silverado shows a red battery light, and the gauges drop to zero, the truck runs fine but its like the gauges arent getting power, or theres a lose connection. If you hit a bump it works and then if you hit another bump itll zero again.
On my 05 yukon I just found my oil pressure guage is stuck at 80. Far right. So I'm guessing that explains the battery draw parasite. The cluster.
Looking for this cable on a 2014 gmc acadia same symptoms
My 2002 gmc sierra 1500 lights stay on and drains the battery. I tried to charge it, but the lights stayed on and wouldn't charge enough to start. Any ideas?
Thank you for a very nice clear and concise explanation of your electrical error fix. I thought I have a battery that isn't living up to its specs an claim of eight-five-(85) months. In January 21, 2012, I purchased the Interstate battery (34/78DT - Mega Tron Plus), it has a 85-month life warranty rating - that is 7 years and one month. I am not sure if I have a battery problem or other "electrical gremlin" issue. I drive a 2005 GMC Sierra VHO 6.0L Performance Edition. In my amateur attempt to troubleshoot I learned more than I thought I could learn about auto electrical systems: I wonder if I replace the Breaker, Circuit - GM (12077863) [approximately $10.00 to $20.00 from either GM Parts net or Sears] if it will resolve my driver's power seat? The circuit breaker or the switch is in a state of unreliability because if I attempt to move the seat forward the seat will move backwards and vice-versa. I pulled the circuit breaker and after about a minute, I reinserted the circuit breaker and the seat functioned properly, but a few days later when I needed to move the seat backwards it moved forward. I have also read that it could be a faulty control switch in the seat, which costs $92.00 + at most local auto parts stores. In summary, I am trying to solve the power seat problem at the lowest cost due to major financial constraints! Besides I enjoy learning and building my self-confidence in my "lack of mechanical skills" and if I can fix the problems then I couldn't put a price on it.
Peter - I don't believe it would be a circuit breaker. Those usually either work or permanently don't. Your problem does sound more like a bad control switch. I don't know much about it, but I would probably see if I could pull it out and fix it before replacing it. I had a BMW with a similar problem and there was just junk in the control causing it to not function properly. I cleaning it all up and it worked well.
Thank you for your response. I am still trying to resolve my seat issue. I initially thought it was the circuit breaker, but after I read your response and researching the subject on the internet I too thought it could be the 8-way seat power switch: after replacing the OEM 8-way switch with a 3rd party product, I learned that the switch is not the cause. After more researching and watching CZcams videos, my next option was to check the power seat control module [GMC Power seat control module Lear P/N 602-0528-200-F-GMT800]. I finally removed circuit board under the driver's. I am currently attempting to clean the board's connector prongs. Hopefully this will fix my driver's seat's unreliable forward and backwards adjustment movements.
Mine is doing it but I wiggle my negative cable and it starts so I believe it’s corrosion inside the cable I got a new one to put on and a positive also but the positive cable I got doesn’t have the post clamp is there two parts to it?
I wonder if this will help my problem. I have a 2009 Sierra z71 1500 5.3 I had the HVAC case replaced. Now I have a u0109, u0102 codes my traction control is off parking assist is off abs light is on parking brake light on service trailer brake
Hey how long is that new cable?
Did you have problems as far as going to start it and no start all types of lights on the dash?
I will try this, Thanks..
You saved my A$$! Thank you
I added a ground cable from passenger head stud to a bolt above the battery, from that C shape brace cus I couldn't get to the back of driver side head where that braided cable goes to. Wonder if it's location is critical or is the one I added enough
I did add the new ground just like you did and my old issues of door locks going crazy, lights flashing, fuel pump going nuts, all have gone away. But just recently they came back and a new one has surfaced. I lose all power like the battery's dead, and I hear constant light clicking coming from the switches on my front door. If I disconnect the negative battery terminal, it all goes back to normal. Pain in the ass this shit is!
Don, You know what? I had the same thing happen a couple of weeks ago. So, I started re-tracing everything and found another ground wire going from the negative terminal down underneath the passenger side front bumper. It attaches with a nut to the bumper shock assembly. It is black and you've got to get underneith to see it. Look up from the ground, in front of the passenger tire. I took it apart and cleaned up that connection real well. I used some solvent to get the road grime off, then tightened it back up. It started working well and I haven't had any issues since. I need to re-shoot this video with that change added in.
You guys keep an eye on the fuse blocks under the hood... i have an 07 new style Sierra, and ive heard the fuse blocks get corrosion buildup inside them, an cause alot of electrical issues...
Im having a different one, my battery light just came on, and msg on dash says "service vehicle charging system"...
Batery is only a little over a yr old, and alternator just got replaced with new, because volt gauge was swooping brom about 10 volts to almost 15.5v...
Trucks start fine, volts are consistent over 14v, but this stupid light on the dash...
Dont know what to look for...
Get a readed and plug it into your truck and it will reset all of that for you. It will also tell you if you have to fix any thing too.
Thank u much 4 the vid!!
thanks i had thst problem today on the road trip, had a problem before when i turned the truck off at home,no response I'm going to do this in the am,way to diagnose 5 stars to you
2005. If the interior ever goes dead, follow the parking brake release cable and you may find it leaning against a black box in a galvanized bracket. Move the cable away and everything will work again.