VW T5 Hub Mod & Top Mount Mod Explained
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- čas přidán 24. 05. 2020
- In this video I explain what the 'Hub Mod' & 'Top Mount Mod' are and how to do them.
I used a piece of steel tube with an internal diameter of 60mm to create the collar to stop the strut slipping. The length of the collar required depends on the coilover installed.
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@dan.a.chambers - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Watching this again months later before I fit a suspension kit, some good tips!
Hi Dan
Been watching ur video and done the hub mod but wanted to do the strut mod what Is the size of the packer/ shim that u have used to pack to stop it coming through cheers
I couldn't work out 'why' the hub mod was necessary until it came up in conversation long after I'd lowered my van. I fitted Stance plus coilovers for about the same price and fitted some new Meyle T6 modified top mounts from eBay for about £80. Nothing needed to be cut or modified. I set the adjusters to sit at the lowest. The van front subframe was 2" from the floor and was hitting speed bumps so I raised the van another inch. After this I was asking people why would anyone need to do the hub mod, if it can already sit too low for speed bumps? Here's why... The lower the van is, the greater the spring compression, thus a harder ride. If I do revisit the job and do the hub mod, the van can be set to ride at the same height with less compression on the spring and a softer, more comfortable ride. I wish I'd known this before but i'm new to Transporters. Great videos Dan.
The springs are not under greater compression. The overall travel of the shock is reduced so by dropping it through the hub you regain the full travel of the piston before it hits the bumpstop. If you adjust the coil over to halfway and measure the spring length under the weight of the van, then wind it all the way to the bottom and measure again, the spring will be exactly the same length (determined by the load on the spring, not the height of the adjuster).
Exactly that. Hub mod means you can wind the coilover higher up for a better ride. This one is no where near low enough for me though 😂
Thank You for Watching ✌️
Dan Chambers Then please share that, numpties like me think it’s only for extra lowering which we don’t want.
Thank you very much for this explanation Dan.
I've planned to install my H&R coilovers next week, but already saw on pictures that they wouldn't go low enough for my 20''s
So I'll get the top-mount discs adjusted by CNC first, and also get rid of the lip in the hub with my own tools.
This video saved me a lot of time and effort!
Last question: Did you weld the fixing-eyes for brake hoses & ABS cables back on your stuts? Because of the welding temperature etc?
I was thinking maybe TIG welding would be better in stead of MIG, because it's more precisely and less heat.
But also thinking of making an adapter for it, that I can mount around the stut without doing any welding.. just wondering
Hi! Thank you for watching, glad the video helped. So I just cable tied the brake lines to the strut but I should have welded the brackets I removed from the strut to a collar that is used as a spacer that sits between the too of the hub and bottom of the arb brackets
Dan have you got a part number for those pinch bolts. I have the same problem and cant seem to find the right ones. 😩
Hi, are you on instagram? I collected the pinch bolts this morning. I can send you a photo of the labels.
What's the length of your collar you added in for safety???
Dan.. just to ask after the point you raised about using the original correct size nut on the strut.
If you used the nylon nut supplied...with it being slightly smaller could this give a tiny knock feel from the suspension??
It very well could cause a knocking dude as the top mount may not be correctly tightened. Could be worth an investigation.
@@DanChambersDAC I've chased a small knock on the front and never sussed it!! Like a drop link knock. Bet it's that
Keep up the good work. Love the channel 👍
The problem I have with my coil overs is that the original nut that holds the spring and bearing assembly together is too thick. So the top plate inside the engine bay sits on the lower nut and not on the strutt housing, causing the strutt to move around inside the opening. I tried the nut supplied with the kit and it is still too thick?
Thank you so much. for watching and for commenting. I have had this before too I think. I have always found and been told that a small amount of play is normal. I was told to always use the Standard toll nut to build the strut.
Any idea what size the original nut is & where I can buy it..my coilovers have never been right since fitting & got a feeling it is this nut. Great video btw 👍🏻
Thank you so much for the comment and for watching bud! It is a 21mm socket, They will be available from TPS or your local motor factors should be able to get hold of one for you.
Any idea how much the top mounts are reduced when machining?
Hi bud, honestly not too sure dude sorry.
Is this safe? Can the strut slip?
great vid, however where can i find the tube for the collar, been googling it but no luck
I just bought a Tube off eBay. I measured the strut and I think 52mm internal diameter tube works then cut it to length.
I wish someone would make these collars.
If anyone knows anyone send a reply 👍
Thanks for watching bud, unfortunately every make of strut needs a different sized collar and what driveshaft/boot you are running can also make a difference therefore every van is slightly different. I am thinking when I get set up that I may offer a bespoke service for them.
@@DanChambersDAC you could make the collar with a pinch bolt set up. Universal fit
@@dax525 exhaust clamp?
One turn of thread isn't enough