Universal Joints - Part 5: U-Joint Tools and Removal
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- čas přidán 14. 07. 2024
- Weber State University (WSU) - Automotive Technology Department - Transmission Lab. This is the fifth in a series of videos on universal joints, constant velocity joints, and driveshafts. In this episode, we learn how to remove universal joints using the proper tools.
Timeline:
0:00 Start
0:18 Introduction
0:50 driveshaft removal procedures
3:28 driveshaft runout measurement experiment
10:00 Removal of the driveshaft from the vehicle
11:17 Nylon injected universal joint
14:05 General Motors universal joint service tool - Kent-Moore J-9522-3
15:48 Ford universal joint service tool - OTC 205-086-01
18:28 Homemade universal joint service tool with an OTC 927 bridge puller
23:40 the main objective of using the proper universal joint tools
26:30 Yoke ears are line bored
28:23 A bowed out snap-ring
33:21 The Arbor press
37:00 Snap-ring removal. Color and thickness inspection. Copper (0.059" thick)
41:42 Snap-ring removal. Color and thickness inspection. Coated Black (0.063" thick)
43:00 The difference in the four removed snap rings
44:07 Preparing to press out the universal joint
46:56 Pressing out the universal joint
53:27 Causes of repeat universal joint failures
54:28 Driveshaft end-yoke ear inspection and cleaning
59:02 Nylon injected snap ring removal
This video series helps partially cover the following NATEF Master Tasks:
3.D.1. Diagnose constant-velocity (CV) joint noise and vibration concerns; determine necessary action.
3.D.2. Diagnose universal joint noise and vibration concerns; perform necessary action.
3.D.4. Inspect, service, and replace shafts, yokes, boots, and universal/CV joints.
3.D.5. Check shaft balance and phasing; measure shaft runout; measure and adjust driveline angles.
3.E.4. Measure drive axle flange runout and shaft end play; determine necessary action.
Questions for Teachers:
1. What marking should be made when removing a driveshaft from a vehicle?
2. What can happen if proper marking is not made before removing a driveshaft?
3. Have you ever changed a universal joint?
4. If you have removed a universal joint, what tools did you use?
5. What is the main objective of using the proper universal joint removal tools?
6. What abnormal condition can cause a snap ring to bow outward from the bearing cap?
7. Why might an Arbor press be better suited for universal joint work than a hydraulic press?
8. Are all snap rings the same thickness if they came off of the same universal joint?
9. How much effort did it take me to press out the universal joint in the video?
10. Did I use a hammer and a chisel?
11. Did I damage the driveshaft yoke or the universal joint?
12. How can excessive universal joint working angles (Lifted trucks) cause premature universal joint failure?
13. Does it really matter if the yoke where the universal joint is to be reinstalled is clean or not?
14. What is the proper method of removing Nylon injected snap rings?
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Visit the following website for information on how to attend our school and obtain an associate's degree or bachelor's degree in Automotive Technology.
www.weber.edu/automotive
This video was created and edited by Professor John D. Kelly at WSU. For a full biography, see www.weber.edu/automotive/J_Kel...
Donate to the Department of Automotive Technology at Weber State University here: advancement.weber.edu/Automotive
I didn't know what a "bridge puller" was, but I basically built the same thing for the holes in that bearing separator! I welded bolts with the correct thread to rebar, and made a crossbeam. It didn't actually solve the problem I was trying to figure out, but I still have those homemade rebar parts. I will figure out a use for them eventually. Thanks for expanding the knowledge base!
I'm so glad I watch this video before I did my U-joints, I watched many other CZcams videos of a man with a sledgehammer and sockets and chisels, and I almost followed those poor procedures.
I enjoy watching precision work , if only all mechanics took this much time and pride in doing the job properly and with the correct tools.
Thank you very much
Sure, it would be awesome but, somebody would go broke. Either he would go broke for not getting paid for his time or you for paying his time.
Like they say. You can have only two of the follwoing....Good, Cheap, fast. You choose.
Sir, This video is one of the best automotive tech teaching,and you are the best teacher i have ever seen in youtube sofar! God bless.
I never ever been taught like this, even I am more of drivability diagnostic technician, I always been challenged by noises, even I have AAS on automotive, Master Tech. it never been explained so good to me, that I start to like the science bandied and start to make sense. Sir you are one of the best instructor out there. I really wish if I was living in Utah instead of WA. Thank you very much.
Thank you!
I thank you and the Weber university for showing this tutorials. Thanks for your patience, blessings.
You are the ultimate authority in u joints and drive lines! Fabulous explanation. Keep up the great work
.
Thank you!
Thank you very much for your time for doing all this work. There's a lot of information i wasn't aware of in your videos. I was raised with a vise and hammer, I didn't consider things like the different size clips. A lot of troubleshooting in the past, makes sense now. I'm sharing this information with everyone I know that will be interested. And I can teach this myself. Thank you again for your efforts and taking the time to put all this together.
Eric O. over at South Main Auto Repair (located in the New York rust belt) suggested that the pressing action done by a jig or hydraulic shop press can sometimes cause warpage in the opposite yoke ear, driving it out of alignment. So he hammers everything by hand, using a catch cup on the opposite side.
Glad you touched upon the potential pitfalls of each technique. Great job presenting!!
P.S. "Squoze" is not a real word. :-)
Thank you for the great feedback. The information I presented in the video was taken from Spicer's own service manual on u-joint service. Thanks for the tip on "Squoze", it must be from a local vernacular. i will try not to use it ;)
Professor!
I just read the Weber State Professor profile webpage written about your qualifications and I saw "1975 - Eagle Scout, Troop 100, Brigham City, UT" on the bottom of the list.
I myself am an Eagle Scout, Troop 635, Citrus Heights, CA.
I consider your videos to be very informative, well 'put together', and would recommend others to watch them.
tanks again this about drive shafts and universal joints have been mystery subject for me I really happy that you make a easy to understand series of drive shafts and U-joints. .
+g johan Thank you! I am glad it has been helpful.
Very thorough, in-depth videos, excellent work!
+Alex sumo Thank you very much!
Excellent. John, great to see that even your mobility issues don't slow you down in any way!
And kudos on the Weber State colours nitrile gloves 😉
+Mario Dalla Riva Thank you! No, my mobility does not slow me down. I tell my students "If an old man in a wheelchair can do this, you should be able to also!" LOL. I picked that glove color on purpose! Go WSU! Thanks for watching!
+WeberAuto great attitude! And you're not an old man. I've read your bio.
Mind you, my thirty year old son (a teacher) thinks 40 is old...all relative I guess.
Best info found so far, lots of detail easy to absorb.
Thank you!
John your videos are fantastic
Thank you!
Thanks for your attention to detail.
Thank you
Thank you professor for all the time and dedication you have imparted into this video series. What a great series! Thank you and bless you. Could you kindly make a list with part numbers of all the u-joint service tools you use please? Searching these threads is time consuming and I seem to be having a hard time locating many of those tools in your videos online. Thank you again and GOD bless!
Great Instructor!! Thank you John
Thank you!
Great Instructor! Thank you John. I'll subscribe to watch all of your videos.
Thank you!
That is a super-educational video - at least for those non-pro's amongst us that don't know what they're doing half the time (at best). I bet it will be useful to trainees and less seasoned pros too though. Plus, I never knew there was an aluminium drive shaft out there - not that arbor presses that big were made. Live and learn I guess.
precision engineering right Der. excellent vid.
Thank you!
Awsome information. Glad I found your channel
Thank you!
Thank you. I watched some other tutorials for my 1998 dodge ram 1590 sport to do a rear drive shaft u joint replacement... of course when I got under my truck it was different.... then I found your tutorial. Thank you.
i learn something everytime i watch you are the best
Thank you very much!
I like the Kent-Moore J-9522-3 U -Joint Bearing Separator, I'm going to invest on one, thank you for the education.
Fine comprehensive instruction.
Thank you
Best I've seen yet thanks
Great video!
Thank you!
Great Work!
+mrexecutive1 Thank you!
another awesome job
Thank you
Excellent video John. I'm hooked on them
Thank you!
great job!
Thank you!
Thank you Mr Kelly, your detailed disruption of the U joint and how it works plus how to preform maintenance on them, is well appreciated.
wow this is the best video of doing it right thank
Thank you!
Nice if I had an auto shop instructor like you I probably wouldn't have become an electrician lol
Thanks for watching
super, as always ...
+pei bossman Thank you!
oh my gosh Mr. Kelley, there is no limit to how precise this stuff is. The ujoint that had ample axial play and yet was still stiff could have had needle bearings slighly larger than others, trunnions with different dimensions, or even those littlle plastic spicer end washers with varying dimensions. I would have threw it in the trash and gotten a replacement ujoint that moves nice and freely. No way i would have put that back in the vehicle.
Bravo on showing a better technique! The usual technique of pressing or hammering on the upper cap risks bending the ears inward. I do the flip of this with a piece of u-channel holding the sides and press a big socket on top to catch the upper cap being forced upwards.
Good stuff here
Mr. Kelley.
I must add that it is vital to measure the runout first things first also because after changing a ujoint and lining everything back up the way it goes, one must again measure the runout and make sure it hasnt changed. due to variations in ujoint and snap ring dimensions, the ujoint can possibly be shifted over from perfectly centered in the yokes and now theoretically the dtiveshaft has been shifted over and will spin elliptically. one must also not press a ujoint in any more than it needs to be or else it is jammed and doesnt move freely and will cause a vibration. you can verify this by grabbing a stiff yoke with your hand, shaking it back and forth and noticing the shutter and shockwave it creates. you are the only one who knows what axial play IS. And ironically proffessional driveshaft shops only build and balance and call a driveshaft good while it is laid perfectly straight in a lathe. they could fill the ujoints with super glue and it wouldnt make any difference until YOU the customer bolts it onto the vehicle and now the ujoints are in operation.
Nice video, I'm trying my best to take a nice video of our drive shaft.
There are several useful topics in here - ‘using an arbor press and u-joint tool to remove a u-joint’ being one. The whole discussion on u-joint clips being another.
Thank you!
After your teaching I have corrected things that I was doing incorrectly.
Thank you, good to hear! Have a great day
This is way over my head as a backyard mechanic
Thanks for you feedback
@@WeberAuto You're very welcome
excellent knowledge delivery, but it is very difficult to understand for me, you could put your very grateful subtitulo serious classes
saludos desde chile
+Paul Andres Bernal Thank you for watching!
Excellent series, thanks for taking the time to show us Sir. I learnt a lot, even a new word... "Squoze" :-)
BTW, i'm not sure I followed the 'bridge puller' technique... do you put the whole 'puller assembly under the press? Cheers! Max
LOL. Thank you. Yes, the whole assembly under the arbor press
You do a great job explaining things simply> the mark of a high quality educator. I used to be an instructor at a technical college for Plumbing,Electrical,AC/DC electronics, and safety courses. I am fixing to replace some U-joints in a 1999 Toyota Tacoma pre runner. There are 3.Toyota says one is not serviceable. I read on the internet where the cups on that joint(end of center shaft at the carrier bearing)) must be machined down .015. Have you ever had any experience with these driveshafts. Oh and I watched your video on balancing. I bought an electronic angle gauge and am going to check all my angles, thanks to your video on that. I do not have an arbor press, but I do have a ball joint press and a hydraulic press. Do you think it is possible to make the Ford type press tool out of 3/8" plate. I have wire, stick,tig welder and plasma cutter. Thanks Dave
I have no experience with that driveshaft. Thanks for watching
Great video series John.I would be interested to know what percentage of mechanics actually measure the runout etc?I'm willing to bet most just change the uni joints with whatever snap rings they come with and call it done.
Thank you! That is probably true, the flat rate pay system promotes sloppy work.
Gracias por compartir tus videos son de mucho interes pero no los puedo traducir
Thank you!
Great presentation, you helped me so much, finally the whining sound is gone......Thank you.
Thank you!
good work sir .... with pleasure i watched your vedeo ... but kindlly can you install the C.C option in your useful vedeos please ???
Great study and video,can you provide the part number of the press you used.
I should have watched your video before breaking a u-joint after an attempt to remove it from the yoke. I was replacing the yoke also.. I learned something valuable today from your video. Thank you!
I am working on a GM propeller shaft. The bearing cap completely covers the cross and a GM tool wouldn’t work. In other words, if i were to try the GM tool, it would touch the bearing caps and not the cross. In this case, i would need the ford tool that would push on the yoke ears sideways, correct?
Can you purchase a pack of different thickness ujoint clips?
John your videos are first class!
Can you please tell me the manufacturer or part # for the special cross tool you are using when pressing?
Thank you! The tool numbers are in the video description below the video
John love your info. great shop , im looking to buy a transmission tear down bench could you tell me what the brand of the red benches with adjustable legs in your videos,
Thank you! They are "Sure" brand fluid containment workbenches with the stainless steel top option. Best wishes!
What is the ID and OD of the Kent Moore J-9522-3 Tool that is extremely hard to find? THANK YOU!
Thanks for these videos, very interesting. That Propshaft at about 6 minutes in the one with the pinion companion flange looks like something even worse than those universal joints made by Ford in your first videos, I imagine it is some junk from GM / Chrysler etc. Probably would be just as good using JB Weld, terrible quality.
Could you list the specific model of Dake arbor press used in the video? Thank you in advance.
Hi, we have two. This one is my favorite www.dakecorp.com/products/arbor-presses/ratchet-lever-arbor-press-1-1-2b
I'm dedicating my life to u-joints.
I am looking to upgrade to a nicer arbor press for my shop what is the model of yours that you used any info is appreciated
thanks do you have videos for gmc 2010 sierra 2500hd driveshaft change
No, but it is very similar to the one in this video. Thanks for your feedback!
I have the same otc bridge puller/bearing splitter set up and never knew why I got the 2 feet. To bad I think lost both. This tool really never figured it out how it work
That is all good if you are working on New stuff !!!!
You need to know the right and proper way, to know what you are sacrificing by taking shortcuts.
I've used a pitman arm puller and a press to change out u joints, its U shaped like the ford tool.
Another question if I may... do the needles within the U joint slowly 'walk' around within a properly aligned assembly? I'm thinking they should, to avoid brinnelling if they just roll back and forth over the same area?
They do not walk around, they just roll back and forth. Brinelling will not occur unless there is a shock load exerted on them from abusive driving or improper installation.
is there a Toyota (Tacoma 2nd gen) universal joint service tool?
I understand the part about marking the driveshaft before removal, but say you remove the transmission, and replace it with one from another vehicle?
I am sorry, I do not remember saying that. The point is to always mark the relationship between two rotating parts for proper reassembly and for diagnostics. Thanks for your feedback
Hello John. Your videos are very helpful. Your channel is quite famous in my Engineering university here in Pakistan. Regarding this video (Time 55:35) , I just wanted to ask the ears of this propeller shafts Yoke also seems to be widened like letter "Y". Is there any given specs of distance that how far are the inner ends of ears from each other. How we measure them? Thanks
Thank you very much! Yes, there are specifications if you can find them. Spicer driveshafts have their specifications on the Spicer parts website.
I don't think you damaged those snap rings. I think they take a set when they are sitting compressed in the u-joint for a long period of time. Otherwise, they would be damaged during installation since they have to be squoze :-) just as much to get them installed.
I tried looking...where does one find thinner snap rings? Mine are .059" thick for 1.188" end caps (dana 1410)
Where would I find .058" thick snap rings?
File them.
"Squozen" 🤣
Hey, um... Professor? John? What do you do if you're homeless and live in a trailer towed by the truck and only need to change this one set of u-joints?
If I were to do something like this on a regular basis, I could see getting the tools for this - like the tools I have for replacing belts, doing tune-ups and things like that. Is there a simple way to do this that doesn't require a tool that is going to take up money and space for years on end between bearing replacements?
I see quite a few alternate methods online, most of which make me cringe because of the potential damage, and have mechanic friends who use the hammer and socket method, but, again, it makes me nervous to just think about. But I just can't see plunking money down on something that I'll use once or perhaps twice.
+Brandon Taitano Hi, technicians have gotten away with using the caveman hammer and chisel method for years. The problem with that method is it usually shortens the life of the u-joint and causes vibrations. A properly installed quality u-joint should last for many years and not vibrate. My job is to show people how things are supposed to be done, and why. For you, knowing how it should be done will help you do a better job with whatever tools you end up using. Best wishes!
WeberAuto
Another great instruction on a full understanding of driveline servicing,
Thanks John.
dear friend i have toyota 4 wheel drive land cruiser and when i drive at 100km the ca is
vibrating badly when i removed the fore wheel drive shaft
no more vibration
It sounds like your front drive shaft has something wrong with it. Make sure u-joints are good, inspect for damage to shaft, excessive slip spline end play, imbalance, etc. See my videos on vibration diagnosis for more information czcams.com/play/PLIn3FrDiB1lxxj_X8eZ7Z4tF4Ge8plIdN.html Best wishes.
Looks like a car that looks like it hasn't seen a road. When's the last time you changed U joints on a 1982 Toyota from Michigan??
LOL!, good point. never.
You do not need to mark the driveshaft. It makes no difference which way it's installed. It does not change runout.
You didn’t show the tiger tool U joint puller
It pulls up on the yoke ear while pressing down on the u-joint cross. It can bend the yoke ear. The tools shown in the video only push on the cross.
The tiger tool U joint puller is the most efficient way to disassemble U joints that’s why on Amazon and eBay there are so many knock off which I have plenty of them and also with that style of U joint puller you can disassemble the U joint while you’re still on the vehicle The style of U joint puller you’re using needs a press and that could take time to set up and you could also be inconvenient
That does not change the fact that it can bend the yoke ear resulting in improper axial endplay and a vibration.
When or where have you seen that the tiger tool style u joint puller bend the driveshaft last summer I did the U joint on 2003 Chevy trailblazer it was the U joint that went to the front carrier I had the front of the vehicle on some ramps so once I took off the strap bolts on the front carrier let the driveshaft hang down and I used
OEMTOOLS 24539 to easily press out for U joint while it was still on the vehicle now part of the Drive shaft that go to the go auxiliary is a tricky process to take off which would result in an extra necessary time to do something that the tool made it easy to do
It does not bend the driveshaft. It bends the yoke ear. It only takes a few thousandths of an inch of bend to cause troubles. You cannot see the bend with your eyes, it shows up in how easily, or not, the u-joint rotates after installation. U-joints should only be replaced in pairs. The straps are not reusable. The u-joint must be centered with selective thickness snap rings. The axial endplay must be set with selective snap rings. If you are not doing all of that, you could benefit from watching the video series to find out why you should.
Squoze! lol my new word.
LOL
This not real world, it looks like a clean room underneath a new vehicle...
Lol. Thanks for watching
Unfortunately you measured incorrectly for runout in this application. The outside surface of the driveshaft does not matter where runout is concerned. The inside surface will help in determining proper alignment to the welded flange but ultimately the runout should be measured where the u-joint is grasped. the orientation between both flanges is the actual runout measurement. This you cannot do in the vehicle, you will need a setup that can mount just the driveshaft by the flanges and pick up the dead center of the flange. Why is the outside surface not reliable for measurement? It is extruded aluminum not a turned shaft thus surface deviations can occur during manufacture, handling, and shipment. These surface deviations may create balance issues but the shafts are externally balanced prior to being installed effectively negating the mistakes manufacturing can cause. Next, though you were measuring by turning the companion flange you did still have another u-joint hooked up in line at the front of the shaft, this can create stacked tolerances as you turn the driveshaft making your measurements null. Lastly, the companion flange vs u-joint is not a press fit meaning you can put the u-joint in slightly proud to one side of the companion flange also throwing off a runout measurement. One more final thought on measuring, do not measure to a worn out u-joint to determine the spec it needs to be reinstalled to. You are replacing it because it is o longer correct. Say if it was a turned shaft and 100% true your measurement would likely show how bad that u-joint is not how good it should be. I will say the slip yoke and the front flange should be lined back up but installation into the vehicle introduces too many tolerances and variables that alignment does not matter. Providing the u-joint is installed correctly it will line up as good as intended from the factory.
Thanks for your feedback. The runout measurement method comes from the Spicer driveline service manual and almost every other vehicle service manual. Worn slip slines, bent trans output shaft, bent flanges, offset u-joints, a bent pinion gear, a whipping driveshaft all can be detected with an external runout check.
Too much talk