Crankenstein - Replacing the Lefty with Fox 34 Stepcast
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- čas přidán 12. 10. 2019
- Quick video to show process and results of replacing the Cannondale lefty with a Fox 34 Step-cast 120mm fork. Other upgrades also included to modernise the performance and handling of the scalpel.
My mission started out on a journey to replace the cannondale scalpel with a more modern machine for my evolved riding style.
I was interested in all day rides and long marathon type events and wanted something with 120mm front and if possible 2 water bottle cages.
During this process I started to purchase my favorite parts together for the new self build. Then while in the garage one day thought I'd try putting the new parts on the cannondale to see how they perform before I splash out large $$$ for a new frame.
So far I am delighted with how it performs and there is no rush to buy another frame. - Sport
that was an awesome upgrade!! Loved it.
great video, explanation, thanks for sharing. you think adding 10mm to 130mm would be even better?? or may cause problem. i have a scalpel 2013 with 100 mm also , want to upgrade its fork. from 100 to 120 is just adding 0.78 inch, to 130 mm is 1.2 inches. 2023 scalpel has 120 mm lefty, but also has 30 mm handlebar rise. driving position in cockpit is about the same 120mm fork plus 30mm rise vs 130mm fork
Do you still a headset kit for the new fork or does the cannonade reducer kit take care of that?
How did you keep the rear shock with the lockout? Did you replace it with a single lockout for just the rear shock? Planning to replace my front fork with a SID fork with cable lockout but my shop said it won't be done because my rear is a hydraulic. Can you let me know what you did on your setup? Thanks
Yes i had the shock on a single hydraulic switch om one side of the hanldebarand another switch for the front which used a cable. A bit frankenstein'ish but you get the hang of it quickly.
Now get wider bars and shorter stem.
Ps, the higher bars are better for descents.
You also get headset angle adapters to slacken the fork. Try, slack-r, cane creek, slackerizer, works, VP components.
Another option is 650b wheel in the rear. Slackers the geometry further and more volume in rear wheel is good for traction, lower pressure and more "travel/suspension". With the extra clearance between wheel and frame maybe one can switch shocks for more travel. Not sure about that though. Try these and keep us posted.
Thanks Ben, yep some solid info there and I agree , my other trail bike is set up slacker, shorter stem higher & wider bars and handles great. Hopefully your info also helps others who stop by this video when researching de-lefty-fying their Cannondale.
I am stopping my changes to the Cannondale as I have a new xc bike on the way and will be stealing parts back off the Cannondale.
Thanks for watching and the info.
Nice
Curious what rear shock you upgraded to.
Hi there, I found the original shock for sale in Germany so no upgrade. It was hard to find something the right length that had the remote lockout. I had a bit of trouble shipping it back to New Zealand but its all worked out.
Hope that helps if your trying to do the same.
Looking to do the same with mine....can you tell me what offset your 34 is?
Hey Tom, I went with the 44mm offset. No real science behind my decision other than I was already worried about making it too trail bikey . I have another bike for trail style riding so still wanted to this to be xc style. Hope your modifications go well and you enjoy the result as much as I do. G
GetOutside Nice! IIRC the Lefty on your Scalpel (and mine) has an offset of 46mm so either way you’re good. The slackened head angle has to be a huge improvement as well. I swapped the Lefty spacer on mine (moved to bottom of the head tube) and I couldn’t believe the difference it made!
Awesome stuff, thanks for the reply!
How much weight did you save vs the lefty setup?
Wasn't that clear in the video sorry but at 2min 24 I flashed up some text admitting that I ended up 300grams heavier. I did move to a 120 fork though so if weight is super important then you could do the 100m fox 32 stepcast or the SID equivalent and end up very close. I'm enjoying the 120 though and it not being so nervous.
Thanks for watching and good luck if your upgrading your cannondale.
@@getoutside519 i will just change the steerer in my lefty with a 1/8" version.and add one light stem.stock 1.5" Cannondale stem weights 190gr.
What is the size of your new headset and where did you buy it
Hi there, To convert to a 1 1/8" steerer, Search for KP058 on CannondaleExperts.com
To convert to a 1.5" steerer, Search for KP119 on CannondaleExperts.com
To convert to a 1 1/8" to 1.5" tapered steerer, Search for KP205 on CannondaleExperts.com
I also used the HD169 bearings after the conversion.
Hope this helps. Info from here
www.cannondaleanswers.com/definitive-guide-cannondale-frame-headset-fork-compatibility-for-mountain-bikes/
I have a lefty and i want to convert to an ordinary fork. What headset should i use?
@@patryanracimo3380 I used the KP205 tapered steerer headset and purchased it from CannondaleExperts.com.
Is there something available for non tapered ones?
@@patryanracimo3380 Sorry Pat, I only know what I did so perhaps hit up cannondaleexperts.com or cannondalespares.co.uk experts.
the fox fork is a little bit short