John Deere 345 Plastic cam - FD590V Internal Parts - Part 2/2
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- čas přidán 27. 08. 2024
- Gen1 345 engine removal to replace plastic cam (Serial number less than 70000)
Part 1: • John Deere 345 Plastic...
Notes:
I also replaced the valve springs. I used the rope trick (remove spark plug, fill cylinder with a thin nylon rope) to keep pressure on the valves during spring removal. Without a specialized tool, it took two people to compress the spring and put the magnetic keepers back in. The old springs seemed in-spec but I had replacements on hand.
Torques
Oil pump cap screws: 69 in-lb (7.8 nm)
Fuel pump cap screws: 150 in-lb (17 nm)
Water pump cover-to-crankcase cap screw: 186 in-lb (21 nm)
Water pump pump-to-cover cap screw: 78 in-lb (9 nm)
Governor arm clamp nut: 69 in-lb (7.8 nm)
Crankcase cover cap screws: 186 in-lb (21 nm)
Rocker arm jam nut: 79 in-lb (9 nm)
Rocker cover cap screws: 53 in-lb (6 nm)
Spark plug: 150 in-lb (17 nm)
Engine mount to frame cap screws: 30 ft-lb (41 nm)
Oil drain plug: 221 in-lb (25 nm)
Thank you Ryan, superb instruction and the S/N info is very helpful. Now I can check the S/N of mine and find out whether mine is affected as well
thank you Ryan great video, diction, calm, timely etc. I had my wife crank the engine and the rod on the fuel pump was going nowhere. I had more plastic damage inside though.
Excellent video. I’m getting ready to repair mine also. This helps me a lot to know what to expect. Thanks.
I'm very surpised you put another plastic oil pump gear in... Most people go with metal on that one too.
Do you know the spec on the valves, or what they should be. Just inherited one of these.
hey Ryan , great video...so do you have a link what parts you replaced with part number and where you bought them ?
Thank you for this Ryan. I see this was made in 2019. My KAw. FD590V just shattered the nylon gear. I'd like to know where you got your parts from. Thanks.
How did you know the cam needed to be replaced? My FD590V came to me with no history after sitting for years. I’ve replaced fuel lines, fuel pump, carb, and I’ve got compression and spark. It kicks occasional but doesn’t run.
Plastic crap breaks and takes out the water pump, oil pump etc. Should have been recalled.
Hey when you put the water pump back did you put any sealant or just the supplied gaskets?
I don’t remember using any sealants on the project.
Hi Ryan, thanks for the vid. What would you estimate the time for cam replacement? I understand variables, but to estimate a job like this what would you say? I have a possible job to do this and wondering what a fair price to charge. Thanks.
Does the governor gear press on or how when you replace it , thanks for any help .
Mine came in multiple pieces. I assembled the new governor to look like the old one, then removed the old one destructively, replaced the washer with a new JD washer, then pressed the new governor on with my fingers. I seem to remember having to press hard and it snapped into place.
Ryan Albarelli Thank you Sir !
Great video Ryan, I've watched it about 5 times ! A couple of questions: 1. You held up an instruction sheet with "M51707" written on it to show bolt locations, where did you get that sheet ? 2. It appears you rested the engine right down on its radiator, did you find some way to brace it so that the radiator wouldn't take the weight -or - did you rest right down on the radiator without any problem ?
Thanks !
If you look at time index 5:01, you can see the random boards in the lower left that I used to rest the radiator on (to make it level). The radiator frame rests on the boards.
I have one, I will never own a john deere again. They are complete junk, actually Sthil I won't even buy cause they are sold at john deere. Just complete junk
I agree.