VW 2.0 TDi (2012 onwards) EA288 Did They Avoid Those Common Problems & All You Need To Know
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- čas přidán 28. 07. 2023
- In this video, we take a look at the EA288 2.0 TDI Diesel engine, the successor to the EA188 & EA189 2.0 TDi engine and summarize the main revisions and what has been done to address the problems on earlier engines.
The VW Group has made significant improvements to this engine, but how much better is it? Did they fix all of the problems? Are there still some things to look out for on these engines?
We'll explore key features, potential issues, and what you should look out for if you're considering buying this impressive 2.0 TDI engine.
The EA189, the predecessor to the 2.0 TDI Diesel engine, had its fair share of problems that plagued drivers.
The EA288 2.0 TDI represents a considerable improvement over its forerunners, especially in terms of diesel particulate filter (DPF) design, emissions, and general durability. In this video, we aim to highlight some common points that may arise as the mileage on these engines increases.
Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF) and Driving Style
Like all diesel engines, the EA288 2.0 TDI uses a DPF. If you frequently undertake short journeys without allowing the engine to warm up properly or undergo the necessary heat generation cycles, the DPF can become a problem.
Dieselgate Emission Scandal and Allegations
In the past, VW faced allegations surrounding the Dieselgate emission scandal, where software defeats were used to manipulate emissions tests. While the EA288 represents advancements in engine design and emissions, some early versions of this engine might still be linked to the scandal although VW had issued a formal denial of this possibility.
Intake Carbon Buildup
Direct injection and pollution control systems, such as the positive crankcase ventilation and EGR valve, increase the possibility of carbon buildup on the intake. Although modern engines often experience this issue, the EA288 has seen considerable improvements in carbon buildup reduction. Regular intake cleaning, typically every 50,000 to 70,000 miles, is part of routine maintenance and helps maintain optimal performance.
Fuel Injector Problems at High Mileages
As the mileage on the EA288 2.0 TDI increases, some drivers report issues with fuel injectors. These injectors work under high pressures and can eventually start to deteriorate. While this isn't a widespread issue on low-mileage engines, it becomes more common as the engine ages. Replacing fuel injectors can be expensive, so it's crucial to keep an eye on engine power and performance as your car's mileage climbs.
Complex Cooling System and Water Pump
The EA288 engine employs a fairly complex cooling system with a variable flow water pump. While this design isn't inherently flawed, the water pump can still fail at higher mileages. Look out for abnormal noises, vibrations, or coolant temperature irregularities, which could indicate potential water pump issues. Addressing water pump problems early can prevent more significant and costlier repairs down the line.
Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) System and EGR Cooler
The EA288's EGR system is essential for meeting emissions regulations but can be prone to issues. Carbon buildup in the EGR cooler may lead to rough running, increased emissions, or warning lights on the dashboard. For higher-mileage engines, consider having the EGR system and cooler checked and cleaned to ensure optimal performance.
Turbocharger and Dual Mass Flywheel (DMF) Concerns
The turbocharger on the EA288 2.0 TDI is generally reliable, lasting up to around 150,000 miles. As the mileage approaches this point, you may want to consider upgrading or replacing the turbocharger for improved performance.
Additionally, the DMF plays a crucial role in dampening engine vibrations but can experience wear over time.
Carbon buildup could also affect the turbo, causing surge problems and boost issues. While these issues often arose at higher mileages, it was essential to stay vigilant and address any unusual symptoms promptly. The newer engines boast virtually zero carbon build up.
The EA288 2.0 TDI Diesel engine represents a vast improvement over its predecessors, offering impressive performance and reliability. For most drivers, the engine is considered reliable and trouble-free.
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![Best Mods For 2.0 TDi Tuning [Seat, Audi, VW, Skoda Tuning Guide] EA188 & EA189 Stage 1 & Stage 2](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4D9bfhngKGc/mqdefault.jpg)
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i have 280k miles on mine & havent had any of these issues. every 100k i replaced the water pump & timing belt. at 200k i replaced my hpfp. at 250k i replaced all engine+dsg mounts. when i hit 300k i will be replacing the vac/oil pump+belt, dmf, timing belt & water pump. always use good diesel (no bio) and almost every tank add dieselklean.
Original dsg?
@@ln5747so some of the TDI came with the dual clutch 6 speed auto transmission, mine did aswell. Make sure you put dual clutch transmission fluid when flushing and replacing, not regular atf you will fry the transmission, my 2012 Passat TDI with the DSG transmission was flushed and replaced by VW at 100k, currently sitting at 153k and is recommended to be replaced every 100k, but is a very smooth and reliable transmission, I love this car.
I drove a 2007 Leon FR TDI, tuned from 170hp to 215hp/490Nm for 10 years and sold it last month with 300.000km on the dial. It has had zero issues in 15 years besides the airconditioning that stopped working three times, which also happened on my 1999 Ibiza 1.9Tdi that I ran for 8 years 350.000kim). Engines are rock-solid.
Great video once again, lots of pearls for the average punter!
Having owned both, and researched and modified both extensively, the later 288 has a lot of advantages like you point out. Most importantly it was specifically designed to work WITH DPF and EGR systems. In the PD era DPF's were not in the design brief, bolted on towards the end of the production run and were a very obvious intrusion. You always knew when the PD DPF era were doing a regen, far harder to notice on the CR. The CR drives pretty normally, whereas the PD was noisy, became very hot and laggy, and made for a challenging drive in city peak hour traffic as an example. They also clogged overall a lot earlier, and had to regen more. Splitting the NOX Cat and DPF Core in the CR was a huge leap forward. Both still suffer with a lot of intake oil/egr buildup, and both benefit from a Provent 200 setup alongside yearly strip down and cleans. My BMN PD had the Siemens "in series" injector failure concern, but I upgraded to the seemingly stronger Audi injector loom, and was a part of a small worldwide FB group that made a lot of noise and forced VW to do a recall and replacement on these. Thankfully my engine never cut out, but plenty did / probably still do. I'm sure VW hated having to fix my car!!
Finally I do have a dieselgate affected CR engine nowdays, and here in Australia got about $1500 payout for the devaluation of my car because of this scandal. I did the right thing and used it to get a DPF delete and EGR delete from Darkside, but to keep the warriors at bay got them to add a 60% race DPF as well and this alongside a race NOX cat and a refined tune gives me a smokeless 200hp, with less emissions than a full delete. The CR is way, way better to tune as you have previously mentioned, still the PD 170 sure had a strong midrange pull thanks to a bigger yet older gen turbo. GT1749vc on the PD, now ruining a GTC1549vz on the CR which is FAR more responsive, yet still flows more up top despite being smaller. Turbo generation is everything!
I bought a 2014 Passat with 85k miles. I had the alternator go out twice in 3 months, but I think it was because of a shoddy job. Other than that, nothing is wrong and it runs/sounds fine. I’d say for $10k and under 100k miles it’s a pretty good deal
You're not seeing the oil leaks yet lol
Great video, just brought a Octavia VRS with an engine issue so good to understand some of the common issues and where to start looking
Glad it helped! Thanks for the support my friend.
Speaking as someone who has a VW T4 camper from the year 2000 with the 2.5 Tdi 151 BHP engine that I have run from 110 000 to 210 000 miles over the last few years with no engine problems whatsover, I am dismayed to hear about these higher mileage expenses on newer engines but relieved that I don't have them. When I bought it, the dealer offered me a a lower-mileage, more recent T5 for less money. But I said no thanks and took the T4. Top speed is about 125 mph -- a guy here on CZcams does that speed (indicated) in a 151 BHP T4 with a roof rack on -- but most interesting for me is that it does about 37 mpg on the motorway at 70 mph fairly heavily loaded.
I will say that the T4 gearchange linkage system is a weakness, though. Access is extremely difficult when there are problems and the balls and bushes in the system give a chronically sloppy gearchange, even after replacing them with new (aftermarket) items.
The T4 era 2.5 is legendary for being bulletproof, my later 2009 170 BPC is a different story altogether, you made a good decision engine wise! That said doing it over again I'd get the 5.1 2.0 single turbo engine in a heartbeat, so common and well known.
Great video. Thanks for this 👍
I have 2013 2.0 TDI CFFD engine, manual transmission Tiguan. It has 325000km. No issues, no DPF, turbo, glo plugs, injectors, all still original. Last week i took a long trip of 3200km pulling a loaded small trailer no problem. I do my oil service, and take care of it myself. It is just about due for cambelt and water pump change. I now see a small oil consumption of say topup 500ml between oil services. No warning lights or diagnostic faults. It really trouble free.
The only things I have changed besides the AGM battery is the oil cooler and oil lever switch, the rest including the clutch are still original.
Just wanted to add to a common problem that I didn't catch in this video. I have a 2015 2.0L tdi in the US. The timing belt on these are a problem. This is something that can wreck your engine if it breaks.
Here's the long story for those who want to know more... bought the car with 40k miles with a squeak coming from the engine. Dealership replaced the serpentine belt and pullies. Squeaking came back not long after. Had car checked again the next couple oil changes. After every "fix" the squeaking came back. Finally the shop looked further and found that the timeing belt was about to fail. Got that fixed and squeak is gone.
Extra evendence is theres another exact car for sale (98k) which describes the timing belt being changed in the maintenance history.
Anywhy if youve made it this far in my comment... I love my car and appreciate this video.
I also bought a diesel gate TDI, a 2014 Jetta. Timing belt was a concern since the car had 106k miles on it with no record of a timing belt being done. The manual says every 130k and I'm at 121k now. I wonder if I'm pushing my luck, but the car has had zero issues (except a heater core that I replaced) since I bought it. Plus 40+ mpg is awesome :)
Timing belt maintenance is not only mileage dependent, the spec is every 10 years OR 120k miles whichever occurs first. Look at it like tires you can never put any miles on a tire but over time the rubber will dry out and fail and it will no longer be safe to use. Same thing goes for a timing belt.
@@heliumtree I would get it replaced since the car is 10 years old now and 120k miles is alot for a belt to withstand
When did the squeak occur? Briefly, When shifting into drive, or at other times?
Mine Golf 7 2014 2.0tdi is at 325.000km. I replaced a charge cooler at 230.000km, water pump leak at 145.000km, rear caliper rebuilded at 316.000km, EGT sensor at 265.000km and thats all. Oil changed every 15.000km. Mine turbo started to wine a little at 300.000km. Car is remaped to 184hp amd 420Nm from 135.000km
The same is on Leon mk3, with stage 1 from Revo (184hp). No issues and ideal condition.
Update at 336100km. Injector at cilinder 3 failure (stuck open). So i will change all injectors and HPFP to be on a safe side.
My 2017 Skoda with the EA288 engine has become hell. Blocked DPF, blocked EGR, faulty SCR system. In my experience they are definitely not an improvement on the old EA189 engines despite their bad press. I have one of these engines on an old Yeti with 475,000 miles with original DPF, original turbo and only replaced EGR once which was a cinch as it was on the front of the engine (30 minute job). Modern diesels are 100% not fit for purpose anymore. These systems are supposed to be to enhance people’s health. I doubt that considering the stress they’re causing. I’m a high mileage driver (50k per year) so have to drive diesel but going back to earlier models with less gizmos.
Have you considered a modern turbo petrol like the 1.5 tsi which can achieve 60 mpg combined? Plenty of taxis are using those now and it's common for taxis to do 50k miles a year.
It seems that crankshaft sealing flange is somewhat common to leak in EA288 engines.. Fortunately it is often the outer seal of the flange and oil only leaks to outside surfaces of the block and oil sump. Tho, in some cases the seal around crankshaft (integrated into the sealing flange) leaks causing timing belt to get soaked.
Thanks for the video, Is this likely to be the engine that’s in my 2016 2.0TDI Scirocco?
From what i have 300km on my 2015 tdi do about 200km a day highway drive and no issues regular mateniance, and she run and drives smoothly. If you get a diesel they love the long miles will last a lifetime
I really like your videos. You present some of the most knowledgeable technical assessments on YT, clearly and plainly. I will say re the earlier VAG 2.0TDIs, they're are not all as bad as made out and there are obviously far more of them with huge mileages than these later engines. My Audi A4 2.0 TDI 140 PD engine (BRE) for example has just passed 247,000 miles and runs almost like new. The only real weakness the oil pump, can be prevented with a modified one that will outlast any mileage; mine I changed at 230K - there was still a little life in the hex key even then too. This is an engine that has the original turbo, injectors and with the EGR valve very much undeleted; it idles and runs very smoothly with no codes and last month's MOT showed a smoke test of only 0.63; despite never having the EGR/swirl flaps cleaned out in my ownership. What I have always done and I believe is the trick for all of these engines to last, is change oil/filter every 6/8K and fuel filter approx. double that - no long life service for me. Always premium diesel too, either Shell V or BP ultimate; no supermarket diesel, neither; though maybe that's a placebo. Great info particularly on your tyre video btw too.
agree, nothing wrong with the PD's so long as you use the correct oil and good fuel as well as keeping up the servicing, and given how well you look after it, not surprised it is still going strong. To be fair my PD 170 only felt a little stronger than the CR140 I have now ( when stock), despite the lower hp and torx in my later CR, the newer common rail and later turbo's are pretty amazing for power delivery, and no more swirl flaps in the CR!!
@@gregroles69 No swirl flaps either in the 2.0 TDI 140 PD, just a straight metal inlet. And no DPF either, fortunately. 254K now :) I agree a chipped 140 is better than a straight 170 but I liked the twin exhausts on them. Cheers.
I bought my 2013 Jetta CJAA TDI in 2020 with 90,000 Miles. I had the DPF and EGR removed around 110,000 Miles I am now at 185,000 and the engine is running great. the Dual Mass Flywheel failed around 170,000 at the same time I had the waterpump timing belt and fuel filter replace. I think when the DMF failed it damaged my DSG. (I have had the DSG serviced every 40,000 miles) The DSG grinds 5th gear when shifting from 4th to 5th and then when it deactivates 5th gear and settles into 6th. I love the car but it has been pricey to keep going because I didn't plan properly and pay attention to Scheduled maintenance
Very interesting! My only unscheduled stay with my Passat MY 2017 in the garage was the belt pulley, that fell into two parts. Usually fixed together with a rubber layer, one part of the pulley has decided to say good bye and rested on the lower engine cover. Never heard of that before. That happend just above 100.000 km. Otherwise a great car!
I've had a Superb 2013 with 2.0 TDI common rail 170hp (+remap) (a Superb 5y experience!) and now switched to 2021 Superb 2.0 TDI 200hp (EA288 evo I believe?). I'm noticing a not so small difference in fuel economy, any thoughts on that? Also is a remap worth it on the 200hp (if done properly of course)?
I have a 2016 Golf GTD with this engine. I currently have a strange chirping noise coming from the engine. It also happens after switching the engine off. I suspect it's the secondary water pump failing. Am I right?
I live in USA and just got a 2013 a3 tdi with 89k miles for a daily and I just found out it doesn’t have blue def at all only the higher scale models do is it a good purchase?
Speaking about carbon buildup in inlet manifold... there shouldn't be any, because high and low presaure egr taks gases after dpf... and there are no carbon particules... I changed te liquid intercooler at 270 t km, inlet was extremly clean....
I'm starting to see the egr issues now on mine at 230k, p040200 code excessive gas flow. Changed egr and actuators but still have fault of flashing glow plug light with no loss of power. Every 3420rpm on heavy acceleration.
Did you manage to sort it out?
Nice1..Torque & thank u
Hey man I’m struggling to find out. I have a CFHC I believe is a EA189. It’s been solid so far minus the dpf and Egr. Can’t seem to find any common issues.
is this engine use in the tiguan?
Do you have a similar video on the 1.9 Tdi or do you plan to make one?
I am planning to do one in the near future, the thing is that the 1.9's are amazingly reliable. One of the best VW diesel engines ever made in most peoples minds.
My 2012 Jetta has the EGR fault. Insufficient flow.. lol. I have a new EGR valve and cooler but can't be bothered changing it out
Is cam shaft wear in high mileage cars seen have crafter running badly injector deviation. Even after new injectors any advice be great
I have the DFFA engine in a Seat Ateca 4drive. Is this gen 2 or 3?
My Passat bluemotion 2011’s dmf is starting to make noise at only 70k miles. It’s driven in bumper to bumper traffic everyday. I wonder if that’s the reason why.
Apart from chip tuning what are the other performance mods you can do to this engine? I have a 2017 Golf 7.5 2.0 TDI
Sports cat/dpf, turbo upgrades and fuel injectors will all be my list of upgrades to go beyond a stage 1 map.
What is the hp&tq gain from upgraded injecters?
@@1Pueblito with GTD injectors you can go close to 300HP, but you will need bigger turbo, bigger HPFP... also
@@orumslv what mileage is it typically per gallon when you have the bigger injectors and turbo. And what is the typical cost of this upgrade?
@@jsharp1776 around 5000€ just for parts ( injectors, hpfp cp3, hibrid turbo, dpf off kit).
The only code I had on my VW 2013 2L TDi was 1 glow plug at 162k miles. Bought an OEM one for £30 and fitted it myself. Runs like a clock.
How many years did the originals last?
@@IliescuBenyamin 10 years and 3 months exactly. Bought it from new. Manual transmission. Made in VW Zwickau site, Germany.
had the 2014 JSW tdi. excellent engine, excellent transmission. god rid of it because of constant brake and suspension issues
My 2018 passat 2.0tdi 150 i bought to replace my 2008 bmw 320d 175bhp feels much more responsive and seems to accelerate better than the bmw. Down to carbon build up in the 200,000 mile bmw maybe?
I have a DFEA 2.0 TDI and have the P0140100 / P0401 error code "Exhaust gas recircuit flow - Insufficient detected". I guess this means a strip-down of the EGR valve and cooler and replacement.
I’m at 226k and I’ve e been getting the 401/2002 code…..probably a crack in my dpf filter……not what I wanted to be working on…..smh
Hi good afternoon. I am after a little advice. Thinking of getting the Audi a4 b8.5 with 63k miles on. Its got the 2.0tdi cglc engine. Heard horror stories about low oil pressure fault. Is it a common issue and whats the solution? Tia.
From my experience this is caused with incorrect oil selection or not changing it at the correct intervals. The sludge formed in the turbo eventually blocks the filter and causes a pressure drop. I've not heard much about this issue, so perhaps it is quite rare on these newer engines.
A regular oil flush and change are the most sensible precautions to take.
Hey sir great infos btw . Iam willing to buy a Gtd 2017 2.0 Tdi no Dpf or Egr regulation in my country but people say a lot about oil consumption especially on Gtd version how much oil it consumes on daily bases what too look for and what to avoid sir finally how can I check the transmission (Dsg) thanks 🙏
its a nightmare
Any thoughts or advice on purchasing 2018 Passat 2.0 TDI with 30,000 miles?
I'll be doing a video on this very topic. The service history and use of the car is important, 15,000 2 mile trips on a cold engine can cause more wear than 100,000 miles of mainly warm engine motorway driving.
If the car has had oil changes every year (schedules show time & mileage, it is whichever comes soonest) and the car has been looked after and driven gently and properly warmed up it could be a bargain.
Check for blue smoke when you kick it when it's warm, this could indicate engine wear.
Knowing this engine it is pretty unlikely to have any problems unless it has been very badly neglected but always get a car checked over, sometime mileages shown are not accurate or there may be problems there, mileage is no guarantee of a good car or bad car.
do you include the older1.9 tdi with rotative pump in your review? I heard those are the most reliable an cheap to matain considering that none of them had DPF.
Many consider the 1.9's the most reliable diesel engines ever make by VW. This video is primarily focused on the 2.0 TDi and it's legacy though - it would be unfair really for me to make comparisons between this and the 1.9 as they are very different engines.
When the balance shaft arrived there was a lot of trouble. Now I'm being diplomatic. I think the 1.9 was a very reliable engine.
Some CRUA's have oil consumption issues as well.
turbo is very good on 2009 and 2011 they go about 200000 the main problem its block cracking
If a youtuber states so..then its pure trueth XD
Could I ask them please what VW diesel engine be in my 2011 passat cc it's a 2.0 TDI dsg thanks
I would say it is an EA189 - it is close to the changeover year though so there are no guarantees. Most of the kinks had been sorted on the EA189 by this year though anyway.
High pressure fuel pump were a common failure
@@torquecars yes definitely, anything after late 2010 were super reliable and simple to fix if issues arrived
Hi everyone. Vw golf tdi 2.0 BMN. Symptoms.. The car starts immediately but as soon as I step on the gas the engine stops. Sometimes it works fine. And sometimes he takes vacations on the road. It shows code P3008. We changed crank and camshaft sensors along with timing belt. After 5 days Showing the same problems. Does anyone know what it could be?
There are no swirl flaps on these engines because of inlet and outled valve position... they are standing verticaly, therefor there is no inlet and exaust shafts, valve shaft have inlet and exaust lobes...
On the CBBB CBAA VAGA CAGB there were swirl flaps. Are you thinking of the newer EA288 EVO Gen 3 engines which didn't have these, don't suppose you know which year they came in so I can reedit this video for people? FYI my sources were on a 2012 and 2014 engine, which had these issues, which I had assumed were the EA288 engine.
You do seem to know your stuff, can you help pin down the dates of engine revisions? I can't seem to get a definitive answer, or perhaps EA288 overlaps the EA189 by a few years and the EVO was the latest from 2018 onwards.
@@torquecars hello! I have skoda octavia III (5E5, 5E6) combi! Engine is 2.0 tdi 110kw, engine code is ckfc!
@@torquecars ea 288
@@torquecars year 2014
Problem free are only TDI from 1993-2000 (until 2006 on skoda). Rest of it are garbages, despite of waay more advanced engineering.
Same at Mercedes diesel engines.. nothing will come even slightly close to OM606 turbo.
PS: They continously said about newer injection, higher pressure for better fuel economy, but same power CR tdi in any circumstances consume 2-3L/100km MORE than my vp37 engine (low pressure).
Same with vehicles weight... continously they said about lighter parts/materials, but cars become more and more HEAVY with EACH generation which came.
Iv had this engine at 40k for over 9 years the cbab 138hp so at 60k I had a stage one map up to 200hp at 70k exhaust temperature sensor common issue after Mapping clutch with mass flywheel too. 90k turbo, actuator and DPF pressure sensor Cambell water pump as running more power normally about 120k and CarbonClean. so as of to day I'm at 150k had new turbo and and now again need carbon clean. Also had problem with EGR valve there are two different types one goes to the back of the Engine on the cooler and one is at the front. on mine cooler is at the back and the valve is on the front oil starts to get in to where the motor cogs are damage the plastic cogs. I cleaned it down and you can turn a cog around to the better side will work well for a little while that was all the problems I've had on this engine 👌🏻
Nice things are much better then. That is good to hear. On the older engines carbon cleans every 50,000 were not uncommon! Thanks for sharing.
Do you service regularly? Long life or shorter intervals?
Trouble with Vw Golf the 2014 hasa proper clutch and handbrake.After that Golf is no no
I am so lucky I got rid of B8 Passat 2.0tdi and bought Honda Civic Tourer 1.8i Vtec...😂
Hi, Compliments for all information altough you speak too quicly for no english toungue😊
COULD YOU TEL ME PLZ HOW I KNOW MY ENGINE MODEL FROM MY SKODA YETI 2.0 tdi , year2010
Thanks
If you click the cog wheel icon you can set a playback speed which is slower, the automatically translated subtitles should also help.
Your vehicle registration documents should show a 4 letter engine code something like CFHA (early engines had 3 letters BKD for example), this code will also be stamped on the engine but it can be hard to locate in some engine bays. This engine code will then help you confirm the engine generation.
In terms of engine generation I would assume that you have the CR 1st Generation (also known as a Gen 2 2.0 TDI) EA288 engine.
You may also be able to pull the engine code from your local main dealership if you give them your chassis or VIN number (the long one in the front window)
CEGA = 2.0TDI (170) 4x4, introduced to range WK45/2009, withdrawn week 22/2010
Injection control - Bosch EDC 17 CP 14_2.4
CFJA = 170 TDI 4x4, which replaced the CEGA engine from week 22/2010
Injection control - Bosch EDC 17 C 46
EA189 is significantly more economical, especially on short journeys.
Oil pumps!
Ah something for me to investigate. Any ideas of the causes here?
Mine is on 320 000 KM and turbo is whining...I’ve done EGR and dmf twice. That’s all. Always change oil every 7500kms
what in usa we change oil every 10.000 miles