Can I independently rotate and time my cams and crank after taking off the timing chain?
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- čas přidán 25. 08. 2024
- Can I independently rotate each of my cams and crank after removing timing chain?
Why this way as opposed to rotate all together? As I was in the process of hand rotating my crank with my ratchet, I was able to move it at least 180 degrees around and then met resistance and can’t rotate anymore. My fear is possible interference and is far beyond my capabilities. I have confirmed I have a broken front timing chain guide and I’m wanting to rule out that the chain has kinked or a piece of the guide may be preventing rotation. I think the only way to rule out is to remove the guides and chain and try to rotate crank to the 12 and 5 position and the cams to 10 and 2.
I’m linking to a longer form 5 minute video that has more detail if needed. Any tips would be welcome.
2014 Chevy Equinox 2.4 Ecotec P0016 crank no start. Broken front guide confirmed.
It’s going to be an interference engine so proceed with caution, as there are certain positions that will bump the valves against the pistons. If you feel resistance, stop.
Personally I would move away from TDC to make sure no piston is at the top, say 45° before or after. Then it should be safe to move the cams.
Alternatively, and more sure-fire “safe”, is to remove the cams (or really, just loosen the cam caps until all the valves are closed), put everything into position, and then reinstall/tighten the cam caps.
I felt resistance and stopped.
Right now my crank mark is at 11. The dipple mark on crank sprocket is at 4. TDC should be 12 and 5. Pistons 1 and 4 are both up higher than 2 and 3 (trying to learn as I go, but giving you the info from what I’m seeing).
So do you think I’m at the position that you described? Would you mind telling me the next steps you would go through specifically knowing I can turn the crank clockwise anymore and the chain and broken guide(s) are still on? Can I rotate counter clockwise a bit to see if I can move the crank at all? So should I go ahead and remove the guides and chain and then loosen the cam caps to rotate the cams (my understanding is then I need new screws as they are torqued initially and shouldn’t be reused).
I really appreciate your time on your initial response. Thanks for helping a DIY dad out.
@@tossingsaladpodcast Sorry for the delay - been working on my own car project!
It sounds like you’re out of time anyway, so personally I’d somehow get everything separated timing-wise before proceeding.
That can be done a few ways…
1) Remove the timing chain from all the sprockets.
2) Remove the cam sprockets (note this may require buying new bolts if they are torque-to-yield)
3) As above, loosen the cam caps until all of the valve springs are fully extended (valves are closed)
4) Remove the camshafts entirely.
Once one of those is done, you can rotate any of the shafts in either direction. Get them all aligned to TDC, retighten everything (use a torque wrench!), install your timing chain, turn the engine over several full turns to ensure you didn’t bone it up (we all have), button her up, add oil, profit.
Thanks again for the reply brother. Good luck on your project. I'm going to re-read through your responses a couple times and try to get a handle on this.
Since I have to remove and replace the chain anyway (I have a Cloyes kit staring me in the face) I think I'll try your first suggestion of removing the timing chain from all the sprockets.
Quick clarification, once I get the guides and chain off, I get my cam sprockets to TDC, exhaust at 10, intake at 2 and then rotate the crank (if I can get it to move) to the 12 and dipple mark to 5? I did buy a timing tool/clamp that once the cams are at the correct position, I can put that on and then reinstall the guides and chain, correct?
Again, really appreciate you taking the time between you working on your own car.
@@tossingsaladpodcast Without studying the procedure I don’t know the exact positions everything needs to be - I’ll leave that to you (it sounds like you get it).
Once you remove the chain, turn the crank backwards or forwards to get it 45° or so off TDC. That should give you room to move the cams wherever you need them.
If you run into resistance, just stop and try moving another shaft forwards or backwards.
Once the cams are free, get them to TDC, lock them down, and then move the crank to TDC.
Again, if you bump something, just stop and back up a little, and move the other component(s).
Pro-tip: if you remove the spark plugs, you won’t develop any compression so it’ll be easier to tell whether you’re bumping. Also, you can stick something plastic like a zip tie into the spark plug hole of cylinder #1 to indicate whether it’s at the top or not.
You got this!
Ok. You’ve given me the confidence to keep going. I appreciate it. Waiting for things to dry out today and then diving in. Thank you for your insight and time.
For every turn of crank the cams turn 2 re olutions
As long as you ensure it’s back to TDC you’ll be fine.
On top of what you're going to be doing don't forget to reset your ECU to get rid of any learned data.
I hope to get to this part! Thaks for the heads up.
Just put a jack on the oil pan and pull the cover so a timing job.
Dont touch what you cant fix 😢
I have to try. How else will I learn?
@@tossingsaladpodcast well I give you so much respect for that 👏 most people don't want to try.
@@tossingsaladpodcast fr what is bro even taking ab. He commented this with to much confidence
Not sure try it out tho😊
Haha I’m wanting to but trying to ask a few questions before possibly making things worse 😬
Honda or Toyota !!
This is a Chevy Equinox 2014
Google if it's an interference motor if not roll it back
Just looked up. Ecotecs are interference motors. So are you saying I can rotate the crank back counter clockwise with no issue because of this?
@@tossingsaladpodcast yes of course spinning it by hand would not damage valves roll it back pull the cover get a timing chain kit.
Thanks! Kit is in hand!
@@tossingsaladpodcast make sure it's free double and triple check your timing marks once its timed installed roll it over by hand. Then you know it's in time not gonna bind up. Start it see if you have codes. Read and re read the timing directions and watch a CZcams or 2 on it.
No do not do it
Can you explain why though? I’m trying to learn and troubleshoot
Don’t do it
Can you go a bit more into detail why you are saying that?