Beautiful job! I have the same car 2014 c250 4 door. I don't have to change them yet, but I like to learn stuff about my car, for when the inevitable time comes. Keep me updated on any other replacements or issues on the car. Thank you for the video.
I have a 2014 W204 Mercedes C250 Coupe with 55,000 kms on it. Mercedes told me the pads and rotors needed changing 10,000 kms ago but my mechanic told me they had at least 10,000kms left in them depending how hard I drove. Check brake pad light came on yesterday. Mercedes brakes tend to squeal a lot from time to time and Mercedes say that is normal. My mechanic said he can fit better rotors and pads for less than genuine. Mercedes say it may void my warranty.
When the check brake light comes on there is about 3mm or so left in the pad. 55k km sounds about right for a rotor chnage, especially if you feel a lip on the rotor if you run your fingers over the edge. I would definitely replace both in 1 service. I haven't had squeal issues with the MB pads. If it was greased properly, the MB pads don't squeal. As for the warranty, I do suggest getting Mercedes rotors and pads if you are still under warranty. You can pick up the rotor and pads from the dealership (or online, whichever is cheaper), then have your mechanic do the work. That way you can prove you used OEM parts, but you'll save a lot on the labour.
@@SteU4IA Thanks for the quick reply. Very helpful. Any thoughts on how much longer they will last? I can't get them done for another 4 weeks and need to drive about 1,000kms in that time.
I just checked the MB service manual for my car and it says to only use pads and rotors approved for use on MB or manufactured to an equivalent quality standard.
I have discovered my car does not have standard brakes. C 250 CDI Sport, the C-Class Coupé Sport includes following notable features: AMG Plus Sports package AMG sports suspension with spring and damper setup for optimised lateral dynamics plus modified camber and bearings Sports braking system with larger brake discs Speed-sensitive sports steering with more direct ratio Sports exhaust system, with sound generator in the exhaust system in the case of the C 250 CDI Sport Engine management with more responsive accelerator mapping A more sporty transmission configuration in S and M mode, with shorter shift times, double-declutch function and active downshift when braking AMG 7-twin-spoke light-alloy wheels painted in high-gloss black with high-sheen finish, 225/40 R 18 (at the front) and 255/35 R 18 (at the rear) tyres AMG body kit including a front apron, side sill panels and rear apron AMG lip spoiler Sports seats upholstered black ARTICO synthetic leather or Dinamica microfibre with red contrasting top stitching 3-spoke multifunction sports steering wheel with flattened lower section and red contrasting top stitching Pedals finished in brushed stainless steel with rubber studs
Are the rotor bolts like how they are w/ Honda's?? Where they are just there to stabilize the rotor for when the wheel goes on? I also have a '13 civic with these rotor bolts and was told you can just drill them out (just drill straight through to destroy it) and leave it off. Would that be true for these or is it a requirement that the bolts have to be on?
Thai Vuong thank you. In the video, MaxBrakes (their highest tier version) were used. Since then, I've started using R1 carbon geomet rotors. The MaxBrakes rotors were constructed well with g3500 iron and run off was well within OEM limits. I just didn't like how the cross drilled holes and slots had no directionality between passenger and driver side.
Ste. L, It confuses. You mentioned that you use R1 carbon geomet rotors and that the maxbrakes rotors are built well. I am currently shopping for both brakes and rotors however, I don’t see R1 rotors on the makbreaks website. Can you give a little clarity plz? Also, can you provide the info of the parts (part#) you used? I have a 2013 MB sport sedan with the sport package 1.8 turbo. Oh and I too am doing the front brakes/rotors.
I was quoted over $800, at the time, for just the front pads and rotors 😯. Not worth it. Consider bringing it to a good independent shop (I usually like race shops, since they deal with high performance cars and thus more stringent), or DIY. I would warn, be prepared for a seized rotor if you drive in salted areas and your last rotor job was 5+ years ago. There are instructions on CZcams on how to use a series of bolts and nuts to gradually push a rotor out. I've done that with older cars with success and minimal frustration. Nothing is worst than taking everything apart only to out everything back because a rotor won't come off.
So as of today MB service techs are telling people to replace the caliper guide pins and mounting hardware. Any idea if that's anything other than a money grab? I can get them from autozone for $32, but it's money I would just assume not spend. And there is no issue buying a normal phillips head rotor retaining screw, right? They seem to be universal and I don't see any Torx ones available anywhere. Want to be safe in case they are stripped out. Doing the job tonight with my Bro-in-law and he has limited availability, so I don't want any last minute part runs
Andrew G mounting hardware like any new bolts, clips, and metal pad guides should be replaced when possible. But I've changed pads (like in this video) without changing the hardware (kit just didn't supply it). In my case, the brakes still function perfectly fine. I think it's just a cheap insurance thing. I wouldn't go out of my way to buy additional hardware, but i will if it's my 2nd change without replacing them.
Cool, thanks. Talked to my brother, who is a diesel mechanic, and he said the guide pins were a good idea to replace. I think they are sold in a set, so I am going to grab them. $30 more is still leaving me saving over $400 from what the dealer wanted.
Nice camera work and explanations. Perfect for what I needed, thanks. (No problem with the volume or noises, it's the info that counts!)
William Montgomery
Thanks for the comment! Hope it made your brake job easier.
Beautiful job! I have the same car 2014 c250 4 door. I don't have to change them yet, but I like to learn stuff about my car, for when the inevitable time comes. Keep me updated on any other replacements or issues on the car. Thank you for the video.
reinaldo de pedro
thank you! 86,000km and no issues so far. Spark plugs were also changed recently, but no video of that. It is howver very simple.
Very well put together video and very comprehensive, I need to change mine soon. Thank you for uploading and best regards from the UK.
I really appreciate the comment! Hope it helps with your task.
well I don't know anything about cars, but I'm gonna change the rotors to my 2012 c250 after watching your video. Let's see how it goes!
I have a 2014 W204 Mercedes C250 Coupe with 55,000 kms on it. Mercedes told me the pads and rotors needed changing 10,000 kms ago but my mechanic told me they had at least 10,000kms left in them depending how hard I drove. Check brake pad light came on yesterday. Mercedes brakes tend to squeal a lot from time to time and Mercedes say that is normal. My mechanic said he can fit better rotors and pads for less than genuine. Mercedes say it may void my warranty.
When the check brake light comes on there is about 3mm or so left in the pad. 55k km sounds about right for a rotor chnage, especially if you feel a lip on the rotor if you run your fingers over the edge. I would definitely replace both in 1 service. I haven't had squeal issues with the MB pads. If it was greased properly, the MB pads don't squeal.
As for the warranty, I do suggest getting Mercedes rotors and pads if you are still under warranty. You can pick up the rotor and pads from the dealership (or online, whichever is cheaper), then have your mechanic do the work. That way you can prove you used OEM parts, but you'll save a lot on the labour.
@@SteU4IA Thanks for the quick reply. Very helpful. Any thoughts on how much longer they will last? I can't get them done for another 4 weeks and need to drive about 1,000kms in that time.
I just checked the MB service manual for my car and it says to only use pads and rotors approved for use on MB or manufactured to an equivalent quality standard.
I have discovered my car does not have standard brakes. C 250 CDI Sport, the C-Class Coupé Sport includes following notable features:
AMG Plus Sports package
AMG sports suspension with spring and damper setup for optimised lateral dynamics plus modified camber and bearings
Sports braking system with larger brake discs
Speed-sensitive sports steering with more direct ratio
Sports exhaust system, with sound generator in the exhaust system in the case of the C 250 CDI Sport
Engine management with more responsive accelerator mapping
A more sporty transmission configuration in S and M mode, with shorter shift times, double-declutch function and active downshift when braking
AMG 7-twin-spoke light-alloy wheels painted in high-gloss black with high-sheen finish, 225/40 R 18 (at the front) and 255/35 R 18 (at the rear) tyres
AMG body kit including a front apron, side sill panels and rear apron
AMG lip spoiler
Sports seats upholstered black ARTICO synthetic leather or Dinamica microfibre with red contrasting top stitching
3-spoke multifunction sports steering wheel with flattened lower section and red contrasting top stitching
Pedals finished in brushed stainless steel with rubber studs
love it, really well done video. changing mine soon and this makes it way easier :)
Thank you very much for this, great vid, I think the cap for the lens was flashing in front of the camera at the start? Very helpful!
MrBigolnuts thank you! Yes it was, darn thing was tied to the camera! Glad it helped!
Are the rotor bolts like how they are w/ Honda's?? Where they are just there to stabilize the rotor for when the wheel goes on? I also have a '13 civic with these rotor bolts and was told you can just drill them out (just drill straight through to destroy it) and leave it off. Would that be true for these or is it a requirement that the bolts have to be on?
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
nice job. I changed mine. But i found out that the brake on the passenger side won't release. The driver's side is working properly. Do you know why?
Samuel Mo won't release as in the piston will not retract when you push them in?
Ste .L The brake locks up, just like you constantly pushing the brake.
Can you use copper anti seiz on hub?
Yep, both work perfectly fine for it's purpose.
Camera lens cover? Lol
What are you spraying to clean them?
Edgar Vazquez it's brake cleaner
Which rotor do you use? I am changing my soon.
Great video, btw.
Thai Vuong thank you. In the video, MaxBrakes (their highest tier version) were used. Since then, I've started using R1 carbon geomet rotors. The MaxBrakes rotors were constructed well with g3500 iron and run off was well within OEM limits. I just didn't like how the cross drilled holes and slots had no directionality between passenger and driver side.
Ste. L,
It confuses. You mentioned that you use R1 carbon geomet rotors and that the maxbrakes rotors are built well. I am currently shopping for both brakes and rotors however, I don’t see R1 rotors on the makbreaks website. Can you give a little clarity plz? Also, can you provide the info of the parts (part#) you used? I have a 2013 MB sport sedan with the sport package 1.8 turbo. Oh and I too am doing the front brakes/rotors.
How much would the dealer charge for full brake job?
I was quoted over $800, at the time, for just the front pads and rotors 😯. Not worth it. Consider bringing it to a good independent shop (I usually like race shops, since they deal with high performance cars and thus more stringent), or DIY.
I would warn, be prepared for a seized rotor if you drive in salted areas and your last rotor job was 5+ years ago. There are instructions on CZcams on how to use a series of bolts and nuts to gradually push a rotor out. I've done that with older cars with success and minimal frustration. Nothing is worst than taking everything apart only to out everything back because a rotor won't come off.
Cars N' Boba wow! Thanks for your reply man! What mileage should these be replaced? I’m at 41k but not in a salt area. Down in TX lol
So as of today MB service techs are telling people to replace the caliper guide pins and mounting hardware. Any idea if that's anything other than a money grab? I can get them from autozone for $32, but it's money I would just assume not spend.
And there is no issue buying a normal phillips head rotor retaining screw, right? They seem to be universal and I don't see any Torx ones available anywhere.
Want to be safe in case they are stripped out. Doing the job tonight with my Bro-in-law and he has limited availability, so I don't want any last minute part runs
Andrew G mounting hardware like any new bolts, clips, and metal pad guides should be replaced when possible. But I've changed pads (like in this video) without changing the hardware (kit just didn't supply it). In my case, the brakes still function perfectly fine. I think it's just a cheap insurance thing. I wouldn't go out of my way to buy additional hardware, but i will if it's my 2nd change without replacing them.
Cool, thanks. Talked to my brother, who is a diesel mechanic, and he said the guide pins were a good idea to replace. I think they are sold in a set, so I am going to grab them. $30 more is still leaving me saving over $400 from what the dealer wanted.
where do i get those tools from?
You can try Harbor freight
What tool box u have
Stanley black chrome 100 pcs socket set
what is that annoying clicking noise in the background
Haha, yea it is pretty annoying. It's the camera making noise in its protective housing.
Great Video. keep up the good work. It's people like yourself that inspires people like me to work on our own cars. 👍