Had to pop on here and just say thank you! Thanks to your teaching in this video and the other, how to tune a derailleur, video I was able to help someone at our local bike park today by quickly re-tuning their derailleur after a local shop totally butchered the job. Your way of teaching is second to none and all credit was given to you for this simplified knowledge! Thanks for everything Kyle!! My wife and I watch your How To’s any time we’re feeling a bit off on the trails. It always gets us back in the groove of things. Long time followers for 5 years of your how to’s, and we truly hope you are recovering ok and keeping up the good fight for all those affected by the tragic adverse affects. Keep being so dang awesome! We hope to one day meet you and thank you in person!
Ah! That's so helpful. I knew how to adjust the B tension using a gauge, but I didn't know WHY. Now I understand what B tension is actually trying to do, and that makes it a lot easier to get it set right.
I saw another video about this where the guy only checked the derailleur to largest sprocket clearance while making b tension adjustments. It makes more sense to check both chain tension in the highest gear and derailleur clearance in the lowest gear as you mentioned in this clip. Thanks for clarifying this.
Thanks! This helped a ton. Extremely easy to understand. After watching this B-Tension video this clicked for me. I had mine set way to high and my shifting was not precise and was often skipping gears. Adjusting the b-tension appropriately totally fixed my issue and I have crisp clean shifts now.
great idea to have the second channel for more ad hoc videos kyle! looking forward to more stuff like this, its great for us + probably a lot easier to edit for you haha
Thanks Stefan! Haha yeah this took 45 min start to finish and the actual video took close to 15 hours! The goal of this channel is definitely to be able to touch base with you guys a little more frequently but a little less polished :)
Hello first i like to say that i like your how to videos with April and you seem to be an excelent instructor in your videos with April and a very skill full rider your self. Now about b tension or for others b gap i have to say that the b tension all though it can effect the chain tension it has nothing to do with adjusting it. If a chain with a correct length is installed on the bike the tension in most cases would be ok. The correct length is determined by your two biger cogs front and rear whether it is 1x, 2x, or 3x your chain stay length and your chain growth if it is a full sus. If someone wants to cut his chain to the correct length he has to run it around his two biger cogs front and rear and hold it tight and closing by hand and NOT permanently with safety pin or missing link. That length plus two links is the correct chain length and if it is a full sus the shock has to be fully compressed during this procedure. On 1x systems it is very simple on 2x or 3x things are more complicated but not much you just have to choose a derailer with the correct cage length if all this is done correctly and still have issues especially with chain clearance that means that the frame is not designed for that gear set up. B tension or b gap determines the distance between the largest cog on the cassete and the upper pulley of the derailer just because cassetes come in various sizes. Now if the b tension is adjusted wrong but clears the largest cog it does't have devastating effects in shifting. If the gap is to big then shifting is slugish a bit slower and not so precise if the gap is to small then shifting is crunchy and the chain in some cases does't run smooth when pedaling. I can go on and on about how to adjust a bike sorry for the long post and sorry for any mistakes i've made english is not my native language😇😄
I like it! Tools like SRAM gauge (red plastic thing to measure the distance between a pulley and a cog) make us to think it needs to be adjusted by a mili-meter precession. You freed me from the obsession! One thing that I might have noticed on my wife's bike which has Ethirteen 9-46 11speed cassette is that it seemed to halite upshifting (from large/easy cog to small/harder cog) somewhere in the middle section if the clearance is left too generous? I'm wondering this is because the ramp is so steep and the distance between the pulley and the cog gets way too far in that specific position which makes harder to derail the chain? Tighter clearance pared with well adjusted up/down shifting might have resolved it but it seems temperamental compared with other cassettes. I wonder anyone had the same issue with Ethirteen?
Very timely. I just bought a 'new to me' bike and the rear mech needs some tweaking. I do wonder if chain wrap is as much of an issue in the larger cogs. Getting and extra one or two links of engagement is a big deal for 10T or 11T when you only have seven teeth of engagement max. But even if you have B-tension maxed out, you'll still have 20+ teeth engagement in your larger gears... granted they're usually made of softer aluminum. Either way, great videos, keep it up!
Good explanation. Imho though the smallest sprocket is the high gear & the biggest (easiest) is the low gear (like in a car) So when you want to move to the biggest cog you should say move down to the biggest cog, not up. That's just me being picky though as the video was great. Thanks.
On the newer shimano 1x12 derailleurs there is a line on the back side of the cage near the upper jockey wheel that shows the required position of the cage relative to the largest cassette gear.
Yeah that is such a helpful feature! We just wanted to make something that gave people a general idea of how to tune any derailleur but its so rad how easy shimano makes it!
Hi Kyle, on the newer Shimano derailleurs there`s a distance marker for adjusting your B-Tension 100% correctly, it should align with the largest cog ;-)
I have a schinn Ascension that was given to Me. The problem I'm having with it is when the back tires in contact with the surface you can pedal the bike but but it does not engage the rear tire and it just free spins.. As if it's not in gear at all. It does this in all gears. Not right away at times, but eventually, you pedal the bike and it puts no power to the back tire. Btw , yes, the chain is on. I just got this yesterday. I've never had a multi teeth configuration before
“Don’t be a slack.. move your derailleur back” - Park tool... they say that pull the derailleur when adjusting to avoid the screw grinding on to the hanger
on my shimano derailleur the Gap is too small even though the screw is completeely screwed in. I was always able to create the right gap but something seems to have changed and its not possible anymore. Im confused.
What if you still have 2 chain rings in the front? Still the hardest gear or should there be no droopines when on smallest front and smallest back? (And yes, know that it is not recommended shifting pattern)
Y’all need to work on your vernacular. “High gear, low gear” that’s just it. People see it differently. The only for sure way to label gears correctly is inboard/outboard. There’s no question if you use proper terminology. I would expect something coming from park tool co. To have thought about this. Thanks for the post though. It was still helpful.
When the chain is on the smallest sprocket at the rear, and on the largest sprocket at the pedal, ( hardest gear ) that would be the 24th gear of a 24 speed. The lefthand gear shifter should be on the # 3. ( is this correct ? ) And, the righthand gear shifter should be on the # 8. ( correct ? ) So now, if this is correct, then begin explaining EVER so SLOWLY. Taking time to video precisely while explaining.
Hadn’t even considered tooth engagement. Thanks for this.
Yeah no worries!
@@kwarnermtb 899&
Had to pop on here and just say thank you! Thanks to your teaching in this video and the other, how to tune a derailleur, video I was able to help someone at our local bike park today by quickly re-tuning their derailleur after a local shop totally butchered the job. Your way of teaching is second to none and all credit was given to you for this simplified knowledge! Thanks for everything Kyle!! My wife and I watch your How To’s any time we’re feeling a bit off on the trails. It always gets us back in the groove of things. Long time followers for 5 years of your how to’s, and we truly hope you are recovering ok and keeping up the good fight for all those affected by the tragic adverse affects.
Keep being so dang awesome! We hope to one day meet you and thank you in person!
Best and most complete explanation of B screw I've ever seen!
Haha thanks Tom!
I watched like 6 videos about b screw, but this is the best and pretty well explained, thanks!!
Ah! That's so helpful. I knew how to adjust the B tension using a gauge, but I didn't know WHY. Now I understand what B tension is actually trying to do, and that makes it a lot easier to get it set right.
I saw another video about this where the guy only checked the derailleur to largest sprocket clearance while making b tension adjustments. It makes more sense to check both chain tension in the highest gear and derailleur clearance in the lowest gear as you mentioned in this clip. Thanks for clarifying this.
You really are a rare breed Kyle. Thanks for taking the time to make these additions. Great follow up.
Thank you!
Good explanation of B screw adjustment! Thanks.
Its like i have been enlightened by the bike mechanic Gods. Cant thank you enough. No one has ever touched this topic as far as I know.
Thank you. Very nicely explained. Short and Sweet. It took me 5 minutes to fix the b tension in my bike.
Thanks! This helped a ton. Extremely easy to understand. After watching this B-Tension video this clicked for me. I had mine set way to high and my shifting was not precise and was often skipping gears. Adjusting the b-tension appropriately totally fixed my issue and I have crisp clean shifts now.
great idea to have the second channel for more ad hoc videos kyle! looking forward to more stuff like this, its great for us + probably a lot easier to edit for you haha
Thanks Stefan! Haha yeah this took 45 min start to finish and the actual video took close to 15 hours! The goal of this channel is definitely to be able to touch base with you guys a little more frequently but a little less polished :)
Thanks for adding the "footnote." Very helpful. Now I think I understand B tension.
Hello first i like to say that i like your how to videos with April and you seem to be an excelent instructor in your videos with April and a very skill full rider your self.
Now about b tension or for others b gap i have to say that the b tension all though it can effect the chain tension it has nothing to do with adjusting it. If a chain with a correct length is installed on the bike the tension in most cases would be ok. The correct length is determined by your two biger cogs front and rear whether it is 1x, 2x, or 3x your chain stay length and your chain growth if it is a full sus. If someone wants to cut his chain to the correct length he has to run it around his two biger cogs front and rear and hold it tight and closing by hand and NOT permanently with safety pin or missing link. That length plus two links is the correct chain length and if it is a full sus the shock has to be fully compressed during this procedure. On 1x systems it is very simple on 2x or 3x things are more complicated but not much you just have to choose a derailer with the correct cage length if all this is done correctly and still have issues especially with chain clearance that means that the frame is not designed for that gear set up.
B tension or b gap determines the distance between the largest cog on the cassete and the upper pulley of the derailer just because cassetes come in various sizes. Now if the b tension is adjusted wrong but clears the largest cog it does't have devastating effects in shifting. If the gap is to big then shifting is slugish a bit slower and not so precise if the gap is to small then shifting is crunchy and the chain in some cases does't run smooth when pedaling. I can go on and on about how to adjust a bike sorry for the long post and sorry for any mistakes i've made english is not my native language😇😄
Thank you for all of these amazing tips! I will pin this comment so people can see it and learn a little more :)
Yup. Again. Well explained.
Great explanation. I was always confused about it before this.
Very simple and clear explanation - thankyou.
I like it! Tools like SRAM gauge (red plastic thing to measure the distance between a pulley and a cog) make us to think it needs to be adjusted by a mili-meter precession. You freed me from the obsession! One thing that I might have noticed on my wife's bike which has Ethirteen 9-46 11speed cassette is that it seemed to halite upshifting (from large/easy cog to small/harder cog) somewhere in the middle section if the clearance is left too generous? I'm wondering this is because the ramp is so steep and the distance between the pulley and the cog gets way too far in that specific position which makes harder to derail the chain? Tighter clearance pared with well adjusted up/down shifting might have resolved it but it seems temperamental compared with other cassettes. I wonder anyone had the same issue with Ethirteen?
Very timely. I just bought a 'new to me' bike and the rear mech needs some tweaking. I do wonder if chain wrap is as much of an issue in the larger cogs. Getting and extra one or two links of engagement is a big deal for 10T or 11T when you only have seven teeth of engagement max. But even if you have B-tension maxed out, you'll still have 20+ teeth engagement in your larger gears... granted they're usually made of softer aluminum.
Either way, great videos, keep it up!
Learned my something new for today. Thanks
Thats rad! Thanks John!
Love the videos and I have had my daughter watch them to help her with her riding!!
That is awesome! Thanks Daniel!
Good explanation. Imho though the smallest sprocket is the high gear & the biggest (easiest) is the low gear (like in a car) So when you want to move to the biggest cog you should say move down to the biggest cog, not up. That's just me being picky though as the video was great. Thanks.
Good update and thanks for the advice yesterday on the jag wire, I’m going to give it a try.
No problem 👍 Thanks Jeremy!
Oh wow! im more knowledgeable now after watching this. Thank you!
Dude, thank you!
That’s awesome and I thank you for uploading it. Have a great day.
On the newer shimano 1x12 derailleurs there is a line on the back side of the cage near the upper jockey wheel that shows the required position of the cage relative to the largest cassette gear.
Yeah that is such a helpful feature! We just wanted to make something that gave people a general idea of how to tune any derailleur but its so rad how easy shimano makes it!
Hi Kyle, on the newer Shimano derailleurs there`s a distance marker for adjusting your B-Tension 100% correctly, it should align with the largest cog ;-)
thank you man
Nice one m8 the video really help. Explained well. Thanks
Awesome, this is the bit I struggle with most to get right 👍🏻
B tension was critical in the hyperglide days. If gotten right, shifting becomes butter smooth.
Good summary with reasons....
Great, thank you so much.
Super clear. Thanks!
Thanks.
I have a schinn Ascension that was given to Me. The problem I'm having with it is when the back tires in contact with the surface you can pedal the bike but but it does not engage the rear tire and it just free spins.. As if it's not in gear at all. It does this in all gears. Not right away at times, but eventually, you pedal the bike and it puts no power to the back tire. Btw , yes, the chain is on. I just got this yesterday. I've never had a multi teeth configuration before
Great explanation! All about teeth engagement.
Thank you!
Hey Kyle! Loving the videos! Great explanation. Can you add a section about calculating chain length?
Great video Kyle
“Don’t be a slack.. move your derailleur back” - Park tool... they say that pull the derailleur when adjusting to avoid the screw grinding on to the hanger
I wish I saw this yesterday. I took a link out because of the droop after screwing about with my derailleur. Bollocks.
Thanks!
Thank you!
When adjusting the initial "droopiness" do you have the clutch on or off , or does it not matter ?
Cheers ta
i prefer clutch off, it just gives you a little more sensitivity when adjusting.
I think you said a "40 mm gap" when the gap only needs to be about 3-5 mm from the largest cog on the cassette.
on my shimano derailleur the Gap is too small even though the screw is completeely screwed in. I was always able to create the right gap but something seems to have changed and its not possible anymore. Im confused.
try loosening the derailleur on the hanger and see if it has rotated at all, this can happen and make proper b tension impossible to achieve
What if you still have 2 chain rings in the front? Still the hardest gear or should there be no droopines when on smallest front and smallest back? (And yes, know that it is not recommended shifting pattern)
Will this work with SRAM derailiers. this looks allot simpler than allot of the guides I have seen for SRAM.
Hi pls reply what type of tool to use to fix this😅
What size limit screws deore? And pitch?
what if b is max and it still drooping
Is this same for scram?
Yeah should be relatively the same for most brands.
on a shimano zee fr 11-42 setup you'll need all the B tension lol
does this hold true for the sram red 11spd ? none etap
First
Thanks man :)
When is April posting her first vid? I’m looking forward to it
Y’all need to work on your vernacular. “High gear, low gear” that’s just it. People see it differently. The only for sure way to label gears correctly is inboard/outboard. There’s no question if you use proper terminology. I would expect something coming from park tool co. To have thought about this. Thanks for the post though. It was still helpful.
Sorry not park tool co. Just Kyle warner.
When the chain is on the smallest sprocket at the rear, and on the largest sprocket at the pedal, ( hardest gear ) that would be the 24th gear of a 24 speed. The lefthand gear shifter should be on the # 3. ( is this correct ? )
And, the righthand gear shifter should be on the # 8. ( correct ? )
So now, if this is correct, then begin explaining EVER so SLOWLY. Taking time to video precisely while explaining.
Brain surgery is more simple than adjusting mountain bikes.......
Word of advice !
Stop talking.
Use the tool and its explained !