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Super strong CNC inlays reinforced with epoxy
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- čas přidán 5. 03. 2021
- In this video I try a new inlay technique where I reinforce inlays with epoxy that sits between the plug and the pocket, but AFTER the inlay has been glued. I got the idea after I had to patch an inlay that had collapsed when I inserted the second color, because the glue gap was a little bit too large (in my Star Trek board video: • Star Trek-themed inlai... ).
My CNC is an Aureus 3X from Euro Makers, an aluminium hobby CNC similar to an X-Carve or a Shapeoko. Most of my videos are about all my experiments to reproduce what the masters of CNC inmlays on CZcams make (for me, @mtmwood and @Broinwood ) but with a light hobby CNC, coping with less speed and rigidity. I'm still very far behind them but I get a little bit better at each try. :)
You put a lot of work in your projects. Good work
Very nice work, I've been trying to make inlays with my x-carve and your videos are really helpful . Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Clear, cogent descriptions made this tutorial a delight. I especially appreciate the embedded picture of the bit with its case; I wish more CNC videographers would include this simple expedient. Very nice!
Beautiful work! I’m going to try the ball nose bit to do my vcarves next time. Don’t under sell yourself, you’re good! MTMWOOD, BROINWOOD and you are who I strive to do work like.
Your videos are so informative keep them coming
I love it. Beautiful work
Had an idea after watching this. You could do all your inlays then machine a pocket in the backside to the correct depth then backfill with epoxy and cap it with small inlay on the back.
Been following your builds for a while and really appreciate the effort you go to in making your videos. I’m new to Cnc and adding your feeds and speeds, bits and methodology is a massive help - thank you.
Great project. Thanks for sharing.
Quel beau boulot encore une fois !
Very Nice video and stunning cutting board. Thanks for sharing your work. It is truly Inspiring!
Damn that is a lot of work, you basically made 3 signs for 1. Looks awesome!
Good work 👍👍👍
Superbe réalisation 😉👍
Большое Вам спасибо. Только после Вашего видео я смогла разобраться с этой техникой ! Спасибо!!!
Спасибо! Я надеюсь, что вы получили много удовольствия, делая инкрустации! (Извините, я использую Google Translate). :)
Fantástico parabéns pelo belo trabalho, você poderia fazer um vídeo mostrando o passo a passo para gerar o gecod deste belo trabalho.
Nicely done! thanks for doing this video. Finally someone has addressed the hollowness below the inlay!
I have been doing this for years now (Inlay Cutting Boards and using epoxy to support the plug), But I give you awesome credit for taking the time to show and tell others how to do it. Unlike others who think they are going to give away a super secret or ones like myself simply because I am just not into making video One thing I can suggest is try some of the 5 min epoxy it will speed up your timeline, and also watch the epoxy on some end grains that are porous as the grains are like an open straw and the epoxy will sometimes seep to the other side, hence another reason to use the fast cure epoxy. Again awesome job.
Have you ever tried to use epoxy instead of wood glue? I didn't want the epoxy to come in contact with the food, that's why I did it in two steps, but I was wondering.
@@stephanforseilles no, like you I do not want the epoxy to be near the food. On decorative boards I have done I have used epoxy inlays on the back side where I knew food was not going to come in contact with it.
Like the idea of using cnc to cut out profile of the inlay instead of bandsaw. One more part of the process that can get automated.
but bandsaw method is faster
PSA: Tapping with a hammer (17:28) is a critical step. You can see the piece shifting down. I did not do that & paid dearly. So is clamping at the entire perimeter, against the piece itself, with multiple clamps.
AMAZING ! 👍👍
Thanks! 😄
Stephan, you HAVE to get yourself a bandsaw. It will save you tons of time. Great work as usual. Thanks for all the explanation
Believe me I would! And a belt sander too! If only I had the space. I have around 10cm each side of my car when it' s in the garage. :P
Excellent work and video! Can you publish some guidelines you use for depth of female socket and height of male plug based upon the general width of the inlay please. A dust shoe would be a great addition to your CNC when not making videos....
Thanks! I generally go for 8 to 10mm depth for the large pockets and a 1 to 0.5mm glue gap. For smaller inlays, it's 5mm with no glue gap. But I adapt the depth so that every part of the design 'bottoms out'. I do have a very functional dust shoe but I always remove it when filming because I think the "bit close-up" shots are mesmerising. :)
I always thought I’d add a dust shoe to my machines, but both are air-cooled spindles so they blow the chips out of the way automagically. I built enclosures around the machines and just vacuum up when the job is done... or every couple of weeks, depending on how lazy I’m being. I use dry lube for everything and the sawdust just falls right off.
Regarding food safe finishes I bought some cutting board oil on Amazon (250ml for €16 + delivery). After some research I went to the chemist and bought 500ml of liquid paraffin for €9.50. The 2 products are identical !
Indeed it seems to be basically the same thing!
Great Video. Thanks for sharing the bits you use. Was wondering what your cut depths are, start depth, flat depth for the male and female plugs. I still struggle with this.
Thanks! I have explained everything in this tutorial: czcams.com/video/RY0zLv3wcyc/video.html
Pretty cool but I’m confused how you clamped the first peace but was able to keep it at zero on cnc thanks
Hello! I must say you have a wonderful channel and a nice way of showing how to do this without all the extra music and effects of other channels, which I appreciate greatly. I have two questions, if you feel like answering them of course.
My first question is, can a CNC like this handle a broader bit for the finalizing passes, so that you do not have to use a 6 mm bit but maybe something like 10 or 12 mm to do the flattening with a small overlap, or would the torque simply become to great for the spindle motor and make it burn out?
And second, have you ever tried using the sawdust as a filler material for double/triple pass carvings?
I see you use quite a lot of solid wood of course, but what are your thoughts on using a sawdust and epoxy/glue filler, and do you think it would work with multiple pass inlays like this, or would it possibly crumble and become torn out easily as opposed to solid wood? It seems to me that the epoxy in this takes well to being carved by bits like these, but I have no first hand experience with it sadly.
As someone with way too many craft hobbies and therefore a limited budget for each one in addition to a small wish to reuse leftover materials and such, I feel that if I could sweep up the dust and and repurpose it into a sort of filler, that would probably cut back on the need to get more materials for each project, especially for the more expensive wood types, as it seems like sawdust is quite abundant after carving on these machines. It would perhaps give an interesting contrast in texture too, maybe.
In any case, thank you for this wonderful content!
Hello, Thanks for the feedback.
I have larger bits for surfacing (12mm) but for end grain of hard wood I find 6mm the 'sweet spot' in terms of speed, rpm (you can't spin a 12mm with inserts at 25.000rpm) and effort on my machine. And cost also, as I use very cheap 6mm flat ends for this. But definitely a larger one might work on a stiffer CNC!
Sometimes I fill with epoxy like in this video: czcams.com/video/_3nrY6HtXG0/video.html . I've tried mixing epoxy with sawdust but the result was not good at all. :) The epoxy became very thick very quickly and didn't flow in all the gaps. So I use either hard wood or tinted epoxy but I don't mix epoxy and saw dust anymore. Maybe it's because of the brand of epoxy I use... Let me know if it works for you!
@@stephanforseilles Thank you for the answers, you've been very helpful! :D
you can significantly turn up your feeds and speeds, as in the first pocketing cut you had lots of dust instead of chips... i think you could stand to run your machine a bit faster. Really enjoyed the vid and love the end result
Since this video I indeed lowered the depth but dramatically increased the speeds. My usual f/s for 6mm bit in hard wood is 4mm @ 1000mm/m.
@@stephanforseilles im an imperial baby so idk what that translates to exactly but that does seem more adequate for the job at hand
Bonjour, toujours du super boulot ! Je suis vraiment admiratif de ce type de travail qui me donne envie d'approfondir la discipline (je n'ai fait qu'un modeste essai jusqu'à présent). Tu fais des passes de combien avec quel feedrate avec la fraise droite 3.175 de CNCFraise ? Avec ta future fraise à surfacer, il faudra songer à redresser ta broche qui semble pencher un peu ;)
Merci! Avec la 3,715 je fais des passes de 5mm à 300mm/sec environ (dépendant du bois et de l'usure de la fraise). Effectivement mon vertical n'est pas parfait mais ça n'est pas quelque chose de facilement réglable sur ma machine. :( J'hésite à utiliser une vraie fraise à surfacer car plus grande mais je ne ferai jamais tourner ça à 16.000t/m je vais donc devoir méchamment diminuer le feed rate.
C’est incroyable ! Si je réussi un jour à faire une planche comme la tienne, je vais être aux anges. Merci pour le partage et j’ai déjà hâte de voir ta prochaine vidéo. Petite question tandis que j’y pense, peux-tu partager le lien du logo Harley ce serait grandement apprécié. Merci encore.
Merci! Le voici: commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Harley-Davidson_logo.svg
@@stephanforseilles Merci encore :-)
Great work and nice filming👍👍. I am pretty new to working with CNC inlays and would love to do better inlays. Is it possible that you can attach a link for the bits you are using?? Keep up the great work😀😀
Thanks!
6mm flats: amzn.to/3c7WG11
3.175 (1/8): www.cncfraises.fr/fraises-carbures-2-dents-fishtail-queue-3-175-gamme-evo/346-fraise-2-levres-fishtail-carbure-queue-3-175-diametre-coupe-3-17-mm-longueur-utile-15-mm-gamme-evo.html
10 degree: www.aliexpress.com/item/33034695014.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.6dfa4c4dA9zMoW
@@stephanforseilles thank you very much👍👍
Stephan just an advice , i use a 6*28 mm Flattening tool and its a mazing ,its takes really a short time to do the job , just set the cutting depth at 1.2 mm :)
Yes I have one on order but it hasn't been delivered yet . 😀
do you have a link to that for amazon? I'd like to buy one. Is it a tapered ball nose bit or endmill?
Thanks for sharing tour work. For the inlay you have a black wood...which wood Is?
Thanks! I'm not sure if it was Wengé or Padauk.
i am the 56 viewer XD .. i really enjoy your Chanel
two parts were made with a fi 6-10 degree milling cutter? because there is poor visibility in the photo when milling this brown part?
2:00 "Flattening takes 40 minutes" What are your thoughts on a flattening bit? Is it not suitable for end-grain?
Howdy, I am very interested in the vcarve technique you used to allow for the lettering "Harley Davidson" to be raised letters in the recess, and the mating plug that has the cutouts for those letters. Do you have a video illustrating that technique perchance? Or where I might see such in action? Thanks, Bill
Hello. I use the same technique that I explain in this tutorial: czcams.com/video/RY0zLv3wcyc/video.html , just varying the depth so each inlay sits fully into the one below.
@@stephanforseilles Thank you, I will check it out!
Super vidéo :) ou est-ce que tu te fournis pour le bois ?
Hello je vais dans une scierie pas très loin de chez moi. On ne trouve pas ça dans les magasins de bricolage habituels. En scierie ils ont d'office du hêtre, du padauk ou de l'iroko. Le noyer c'est plus rare (et plus cher)...
Bonjour Stephan, Très content de cette AUREUS 3X j’imagine...? Je souhaite franchir le cap, des conseils? Merci 👍
Hello. Oui c'est une bonne machine probablement la meilleure dans cette gamme de prix!
Hi Stephen
The islands you can specify the depths of the inlay
In preparing the female for the placement of the male? (Mmm)
I have a small problem that there is no perfect match and there are no spaces left in the intermediate placement
Thanks
Hello. I generally leave a 1mm glue gap between. Typical would be:
-9mm depth for female
-8mm 'insertion'
-2mm above surface to be cleaned up
@@stephanforseilles Thank you very much for the feedback ..
You specify only one parameter,
The female 8 mm and the male 9 mm.
Thank you.
Great work, congrats!!!
Where did you buy the bits?
Thanks! I buy them at different place, not always easy to find the 10 degrees. :)
6mm flats: amzn.to/3c7WG11
3.175 (1/8): www.cncfraises.fr/fraises-carbures-2-dents-fishtail-queue-3-175-gamme-evo/346-fraise-2-levres-fishtail-carbure-queue-3-175-diametre-coupe-3-17-mm-longueur-utile-15-mm-gamme-evo.html
10 degree: www.aliexpress.com/item/33034695014.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.6dfa4c4dA9zMoW
In the US at least, there’s a website called bitsandbits.com that seems to specialize in these types of bits.
On your "Motorcycles" part, you effectively have a zero glue gap, correct? You drilled to the exact amount. If you can do this for part 2, why can't you do this for part 1? You wouldn't need the epoxy then. On my attempt, I left a glue gap of 0.6mm. Small enough to effectively become a glue joint
Another beautiful job. What woods did you use?
Hello thanks. Base is beech, inlays are walnut and padauk.
@@stephanforseilles Thanks
I've pored over all of your videos, and I'll echo everyone else: they are fantastic and very educational. But I have a question if I may. I've had great success with the Zank inlay technique with V-bits at or above 30 degrees of angle. Like you, I decided to look at alternatives and found both the spiral tapered ball nose bits, as well as the Huhao engraving bits. But - I can't for the life of me get the "classic" Zank math of "depth of cut = reach into the pocket and flat depth = length sticking out" to work with any bits set as engraving bits. I've checked and rechecked the angles, but at the end of the day I'm left with a table of known depths that an inlay will stick into the pocket at any given depth of cut. Have you had to modify the Zank math in any way when using an engraving bit, or is something extremely odd with my Shapeoko? Again, thank you for all your videos!
Thanks for the nice feedback! I agree with you: the Zank technique does not work very well with sharp bits (
@@stephanforseilles THANK YOU, you just saved what's left of my fragile sanity 🤣I was laboring under the impression that everyone and their cat managed to get the classical Zank math to work for shaper bits and that I was doing something completely wrong. I'd also like to extend my heartfelt thanks for finding the Huhao bits - they are way cheaper than for instance Amana bits!
I'm excited to hear what your discussions with Vectric come to, as it can't be *that* complicated to get proper software support for this V-inlay technique. If there is ever anything I can do, don't hesitate to reach out!
@@alexanderarvidsson1041 You're not alone. You can't imagine how many hours I've spent at night pouring over this... :D
Nice job! But wouldn’t it be faster to use a different bit for planing your piece?
Thank! I've tried to use surfacing bits but in end-grain hard wood they vibrate a lot a dull quite fast. So all in all, I found the 6mm is the best compromise.
It seems like you could win a bunch of time back by increasing your plunge rate, especially with the v-bit. Have you tried?
Indeed but I tend to be very prudent because if I plunge too fast with a side unsupported with the vbit I get a bit of déflexion.
@@stephanforseilles très raisonnable
Did you use the same start and flat depths for everything? Do you vary them based on size of the inlay?
No, you have to vary them in a certain way. I made a tutorial about it: czcams.com/video/RY0zLv3wcyc/video.html
What thickness is the boards for the inlays before carving into them
Around 20mm.
Hello are that use resin for finished ? Or clear for wood ?
Hi. I try not to have resin in contact with food. I use mineral oil and butcher block wax for finishing.
Would using epoxy as the wood glue for the first inlay do the trick?
I always try not to put epoxy where it could get in direct contact with the food (on the sides of the inly in that case). But maybe I'm over cautions... ALso epoxy tends to 'stain' the wood in a way that you cannot sand away, as it is more penetrating than glue.
Bonjour, conseil précieux, quel est le logiciel utilisé pour faire le gcode?
Merci
Bonjour. C'est Vectric VCarve.
Where can I find the v bit used in this video?
I found the 10° VBit on Aliexpress.
I am just a beginner to CNC but why don't you use a larger cutter for the levelling the workpiece ? Thanks
Because I'd have to lower drastically the RPM with such a cutter and then the feed rate would become really really slow.
@@stephanforseilles OK thanks
looks great but why not just use epoxy for the initial glue up?
Thanks! Even though it's food safe, I try not to get too much epoxy in contact with the food where there will be a lot of abrasion.
Why not use a larger bit for the flattening?
I've tried 12 and 16mm 'flat inserts' bits but in end-grain hardwood those vibrate a lot if you don't have an industrial-grade machine, and I have to slow down the feed/speed so all in all, I don't gain much time.
great video you can cut a lot of time by investing in a bandsaw
Thanks. I'd love to have a bandsaw but I have about 5cm free around my car in the garage so, if I add the slightest tool in there, it will have to stay out. :)
Googly eyes. Makes anything better 👀
Nooooo. How can you sit there for 40 minutes waiting for one side to be flattened? I would tear my hair out haha. And then sitting at 250mm/min with a 4 flute bit? I can't. Doesn't that bit squeal a lot from the rubbing? It needs to run a lot faster. I run a 2 flute 6mm bit at 1800mm/min. And that's when I'm trying to be careful. I think we need to get you some more bits Stephan. I have some 3 flute and 2 flute bits if you want them. Just send me an address to post them to. Great work by the way!
I flatten at 1200mm/min. ;) But it still takes a lot of time. However as I take 2mm I don't stay around to watch it I confess.
Salut, tes videos sont tres intéressante, mais pourquoi en anglais, car il y en a des centaines sur ce sujet dans cette langue. Merci et bonne continuation, je reste abonné bien sur.
Merci! Parfois je fais les videos dans les deux langues mais en Français ça fait 5x moins de vues. Il n'y a pas beaucoup de gens qui font du v-carving en Francophonie on dirait, mais c'est l'oeuf et la poule... :)
Bonjour Stephan, peut tu me dire ou tu achete tes fraise. Je ne trouwens pas de fraise en V de 10°. Merci
LE BAGUETTE?
Use surfboard epoxy being that shallow, it cures in 45min.
I follow you and am to get s good as you but your machine must be stronger than the xcarve and have to change some of you cut settings deep dosing vidios
Hello, the main difference with an X-Carve is that the Aureus uses a specific carving spindle from AMB Kress (1050w) which has, indeed, a bit more torque than the Makita router. It is also a bit stronger in Y as it uses ballscrews instead of belts. Those were the main reasons why I went for this one. But I think that X-Carve now has an upgraded model with ballscrews, not sure... I'd say that for the X-Carve you probably have to lower the speed by 20-30% For reference here are my usual speeds which I adapt a bit depending on the wood, age of the bit, etc:
-6mm flat: 1.5mm @ 1200mm/min, 5mm @ 200mm/min (and very low plunge speed, around 100mm/min)
-3/175mm flat (1/8): 5mm @ 300mm/min
-10° 6mm: 5mm @ 400 to 500mm/min
Nice but it's time for a stronger faster cnc. 40min for such a small surface. Hehe
Time is money... or in this case money is time. :) But I have a Sorotec CNC on order, it should be faster. ;)
@@stephanforseilles I am also looking into sorotec - which model did you choose?
@ I chose a Basic Line but with most options. It should arrive in 2 weeks...
Don't you just end up with the same potential fitment issues you are trying to avoid in the first place?
The gap problem mostly arises when you have both large and intricate designs in the same inlay, here the walnut base (very large) with the "HARLEY-DAVIDSON" words (more intricate). For the second inly ("Motor" and "Cicle") everything is about the same width so the gap is easier to manage.
Dommage pas en français
J'ai essayé de poster la même video dans les deux langues: Anglais 46.000 vues, Français 9.000. J'essaye de mettre un minimum de texte et je ne parle jamais. Je répond aussi aux questions en Français mais il faut comprendre qu'une video comme ça c'est des heures de boulot non payé juste pour la communauté (je suis trop petit pour être monétisé), j'aime autant que ça profite à un maximum de monde. :)
Bonjour ont a pas accès au soutire sur la vidéo 😒
Bonjour. Il n'y en a pas sur celle-là. J'en met quand c'est vraiment important pour la compréhension (tutoriels) mais ça prend pas mal de temps. :)