In this video I describe what the numbers mean in vcarve inlays. I used Vectric Aspire software to create the vcarve inlays used as examples in this video.
I just watched a video with Becky from Vectric. She was doing inlays in inlays, and started with .3 for the female, and .1 and .2 for the male. When she routed out for the 2nd inlay, she had some tear out due to the “glue gap”. So she changed the male to .28 and .02. Worked great. You could see after the 2nd routing that there was pretty much no gap, just like your .18 and .02. Yours and her changes make a big difference. That glue gap works ok with small inlays and letters, but with bigger pieces and especially on cutting boards, you can tap on the inlay and hear the void. I think after some use on a cutting board, the inlay would start to split out. My thanks to you and her for the info. Will be a great help as I am currently working on a cutting board with 2 inlays and was trying to figure out how to get rid of the gap.
I will heap on the praise as well for this video. I'm starting to do some inlays myself, and having different examples where you can visibly see the difference when you change the numbers is excellent! Appreciate you taking the time and for posting.
I recommend a panel gap larger than 0.02", so that the glue has a place to go with ease, and sawing is easy. 0.1" is what I use. As for the "glue-gap" where the flat-depth male meets flat-depth female, I'm with you on 0.02". It can't be zero because you'll have regions where the endmill can't reach and they won't be entirely flat
Wonderful explanation, I have watched so many videos with so many animations but this was the best. Explaining everything with real wood examples, really makes it clear, especially what the start depth and flat depth mean. Thanks once again.
Excellent explanation of how a v carve inlay works. I did a few before start depth ever began to make sense. Started with complicated vectors but began using basic circles and triangles before it clicked for me. Brilliant how you used such a basic pattern to create your video. Wish I had one like this when I first started.
Thank you for this video. I haven't played with inlays yet, but was planning to sometime soon. This helped me understand what some of the numbers actually mean in the software.
What an excellent idea! Thanks!! I did a test carve but didn't go off the edge. II had to cut through it to see what the gap looked like. I was about to do some more, when I came across your video. I honestly was zeroing in on 0.02 flat depth, although I prefer a SD of 0.3. You've saved me a lot of trouble . . . and I truly, TRULY appreciate it! I'd like to buy you a drink . . . Perhaps I could Door Dash it to you ;o)
lol i just started doing inlays a couple months ago and was wondering same thing about the glue and gap. nadi just happened to use .18 and .03 Good video
I have been trying to wrap my brain around the numbers and until today it was not 100% clear. I used the predesigned formulas from Vectric and others but never fully understood the mechanics. Thank you, Chet, for taking the time to break this down in the way you did. This was the most helpful explanation I've seen thus far.
i know Im asking the wrong place but does any of you know of a trick to get back into an Instagram account?? I was stupid forgot my password. I appreciate any assistance you can offer me.
@William Derrick Thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site thru google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff atm. Takes a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
I know they call it glue gap but I think it is there so it does not bottom out. This would insure that it sits on the taper and should lock in. In maching this is called a "taper lock". This is the point of the taper so that the gap on the sides close up before hitting bottom.
Excellent demonstration of the different settings. I've just started trying v-carve inlays and I also thought, like you, "why would I want a 0.1" gap for glue??" I certainly don't want gaps when gluing up cutting boards or butcher blocks! I wonder if you increased the flat depth would that give you a bigger gap between the pocket and the plug piece (e.g., for bandsaw)? Hard to wrap my head around it! I think with .18 and .02, you have both a .02" glue gap and a .02" distance between the surfaces of the pocket/plug. If you did it at .18 start and 0.1 flat (assuming the pocket is .2), would that still give you the small glue pocket while giving you more space between the pieces to cut them apart? I suppose I should just experiment :) Cheers, thanks for the informative video.
One thing that will make it all easier: the "flat depth" setting on the male (plug) inlay is the gap that you will end up with after gluing and pressing the two pieces together. With a setting of .02, you will only have 20 thousandths gap. BUT: You can make that measurement anything you want- it has no bearing on the fit of the male (plug) into the female piece. So go wild with that figure. I usually make it about .0625 (1/16th gap) You could make it .125 (or more!) if you wanted to get a fat saw in there... The only thing you have to remember is that the thicker the 'flat depth' the more clearing there will be when milling the male piece...😉
I would like to add that the male flat depth isn't that important. Personally, I use .05" so there is more room for glue squeeze-out. Another hint is to add a coat or two of sealer to the female before carving, so that any squeeze-out is easier to remove.
Great demo of how the different cutting parameters for the female and male parts work together. One question: I really like the end result, but how do you remove the waste male material? Bandsaw? Mill it off? Thanks.
Good video. You stated that the pocket flat depth of .15" with a start depth of 0" gave you the best result. What was the inlay flat and start depths that went along with the pocket?
@@shaynetcrocker You can make it whatever depth your bits allow. Ive seen people set the vcarve so that the final layer will be under the surface, then mill off all excess with the CNC.
@@chweatherl I’m having issues with having larger gaps for the glue than I want. Trying to make them fit perfectly. I’ve only seen one video on deep inlays. I’m trying to get 1/2” but I’m learning from trial and error.
@@shaynetcrocker I've done deep inlay for the purpose of 3D carving it. What is your end goal? How are you clamping the pieces together? Even pressure over it all is key to a great inlay.
I used an Amana 90º v bit. I like the double ended replaceable blade feature. I have had the bit for 7 years and have used about 6 or 7 blades. It's easy to keep one on hand for when a replacement is needed. Amana Tool - RC-1102 Insert V-Groove 90 Deg x 3/4 CH x 1/2 Inch SHK CNC Router Bit Amana Tool - RC-1102 Insert V-Groove 90 Deg x 3/4 CH x 1/2 Inch SHK CNC Router Bit $131.04 Toolstoday.com 180-day return policy
All these numbers make sense but my issue remains that when my cnc tries to remove .18 on the first pass, it basically destroys the material on the finer detail. I’m using a Dewalt 611 on millright system. Any tips?
I've had that happen as well. I found that there really is no need to have your female pocket all the way to .2" you can play with the numbers as much as you want. As a matter of fact, one of my best inlays was done with a .08" flat depth for the female pocket. I can't remember the male numbers off the top of my head.
Run the inlay in multiple passes. Example, I have had good success running the first pass at .078 start depth and the second tool path with a .18 start depth
It took me quite a while to understand how you can make your Start Depth "below the surface". After watching many videos it dawned on me that you're not just jamming the Vbit down into the material. Because you should run your "clearance toolpath" BEFORE the Vbit toolpath, the material has already been cleared away so that the Vbit will only be using 1/2 of the diameter of the bit to cut the side slope of the path. Hope this helps.
Caleb, I was thinking about your comment. One of the keys to great inlays is tooling. I highly recommend Amana tool's 90º V bit with the replaceable blade. It's really worth the money and with each blade you get two uses out of it.
I believe you're the first person I've seen who actually makes sense when explaining this. Thank you so much!
I just watched a video with Becky from Vectric. She was doing inlays in inlays, and started with .3 for the female, and .1 and .2 for the male. When she routed out for the 2nd inlay, she had some tear out due to the “glue gap”. So she changed the male to .28 and .02. Worked great. You could see after the 2nd routing that there was pretty much no gap, just like your .18 and .02. Yours and her changes make a big difference. That glue gap works ok with small inlays and letters, but with bigger pieces and especially on cutting boards, you can tap on the inlay and hear the void. I think after some use on a cutting board, the inlay would start to split out.
My thanks to you and her for the info. Will be a great help as I am currently working on a cutting board with 2 inlays and was trying to figure out how to get rid of the gap.
Finally someone that can help make it all make sense. Great explanation of how that works thank you
I will heap on the praise as well for this video. I'm starting to do some inlays myself, and having different examples where you can visibly see the difference when you change the numbers is excellent! Appreciate you taking the time and for posting.
I recommend a panel gap larger than 0.02", so that the glue has a place to go with ease, and sawing is easy. 0.1" is what I use. As for the "glue-gap" where the flat-depth male meets flat-depth female, I'm with you on 0.02". It can't be zero because you'll have regions where the endmill can't reach and they won't be entirely flat
Wonderful explanation, I have watched so many videos with so many animations but this was the best. Explaining everything with real wood examples, really makes it clear, especially what the start depth and flat depth mean. Thanks once again.
Thank you for taking the time with this visual explanation. It makes simple that which is confusing to this newbie.
That was incredibly useful, thanks. I've been struggling to visualise what the start depth translates to in a carve - and this shows it perfectly.
I'm glad it helped!
Thank you for doing this work for us! I do not have the patience for it. I’m going to use this formula from here on out. Thanks again.
Glad to help.
This is the best explanation to understand the Inlay process. I haven't done one yet, but will be soon. Thank you, thank you, thank you! Awesome.😀👍
Outstanding video Chet. Mega thanks. Your visual comparison of the three Start and Flat settings was a mental Eureka moment.
Thank you so much for this video
Very informative 🙌
Excellent video, thanks for explaining how the numbers word, Just starting to do some inlays, this will save me a lot of time and frustration.
Just about to start my first Vcarve inlay. Thanks for this video, it's helped clear up a few things I was confused about!
Excellent explanation of how a v carve inlay works. I did a few before start depth ever began to make sense. Started with complicated vectors but began using basic circles and triangles before it clicked for me. Brilliant how you used such a basic pattern to create your video. Wish I had one like this when I first started.
Thank you for this video. I haven't played with inlays yet, but was planning to sometime soon. This helped me understand what some of the numbers actually mean in the software.
You're welcome. I enjoy sharing what I know and have discovered.
What an excellent idea! Thanks!! I did a test carve but didn't go off the edge. II had to cut through it to see what the gap looked like. I was about to do some more, when I came across your video. I honestly was zeroing in on 0.02 flat depth, although I prefer a SD of 0.3. You've saved me a lot of trouble . . . and I truly, TRULY appreciate it!
I'd like to buy you a drink . . . Perhaps I could Door Dash it to you ;o)
You Just MAKE my Day !! Thank you for the video.
Thank you.
lol i just started doing inlays a couple months ago and was wondering same thing about the glue and gap. nadi just happened to use .18 and .03 Good video
THanks I will have my CNC Wednesday
Great video Chet!
Yes thank you
Thanks!!! great advice!!!
Thanks for the video! It really helped me!
You're welcome. Glad to help.
great explanation
I have been trying to wrap my brain around the numbers and until today it was not 100% clear. I used the predesigned formulas from Vectric and others but never fully understood the mechanics. Thank you, Chet, for taking the time to break this down in the way you did. This was the most helpful explanation I've seen thus far.
i know Im asking the wrong place but does any of you know of a trick to get back into an Instagram account??
I was stupid forgot my password. I appreciate any assistance you can offer me.
@Malcolm Allan Instablaster :)
@William Derrick Thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site thru google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff atm.
Takes a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
@William Derrick It worked and I now got access to my account again. Im so happy:D
Thank you so much you saved my ass!
@Malcolm Allan happy to help :D
Very NICE I will try your numbers now I have been using a 60 deg Bit
Awesome video sir
Glad to help.
I know they call it glue gap but I think it is there so it does not bottom out. This would insure that it sits on the taper and should lock in. In maching this is called a "taper lock". This is the point of the taper so that the gap on the sides close up before hitting bottom.
Excellent demonstration of the different settings. I've just started trying v-carve inlays and I also thought, like you, "why would I want a 0.1" gap for glue??" I certainly don't want gaps when gluing up cutting boards or butcher blocks! I wonder if you increased the flat depth would that give you a bigger gap between the pocket and the plug piece (e.g., for bandsaw)? Hard to wrap my head around it! I think with .18 and .02, you have both a .02" glue gap and a .02" distance between the surfaces of the pocket/plug. If you did it at .18 start and 0.1 flat (assuming the pocket is .2), would that still give you the small glue pocket while giving you more space between the pieces to cut them apart? I suppose I should just experiment :) Cheers, thanks for the informative video.
One thing that will make it all easier: the "flat depth" setting on the male (plug) inlay is the gap that you will end up with after gluing and pressing the two pieces together. With a setting of .02, you will only have 20 thousandths gap. BUT: You can make that measurement anything you want- it has no bearing on the fit of the male (plug) into the female piece. So go wild with that figure. I usually make it about .0625 (1/16th gap) You could make it .125 (or more!) if you wanted to get a fat saw in there... The only thing you have to remember is that the thicker the 'flat depth' the more clearing there will be when milling the male piece...😉
I would like to add that the male flat depth isn't that important. Personally, I use .05" so there is more room for glue squeeze-out. Another hint is to add a coat or two of sealer to the female before carving, so that any squeeze-out is easier to remove.
Great demo of how the different cutting parameters for the female and male parts work together.
One question: I really like the end result, but how do you remove the waste male material? Bandsaw? Mill it off?
Thanks.
That depends on the size of the piece. If it is larger than my bandsaw I mill it off with the CNC.
Thanks for the video!
What is the angle on your V-Bit?
On this I used a 90º V-Bit.
If using a 12.4 Deg Tapered vbit instead of a 60 degree would these numbers still work?
Yes they will. I use everything from 90º to 45º with the same numbers.
What bit did you use?
The numbers work for all your bits. I used a 90º V-bit from Amana.
Good video. You stated that the pocket flat depth of .15" with a start depth of 0" gave you the best result. What was the inlay flat and start depths that went along with the pocket?
I had all the female pockets at .2" flat depth. The male is the one that I made the changes for the numbers on.
@@chweatherl can you make the v carve deeper in the wood?
@@shaynetcrocker You can make it whatever depth your bits allow. Ive seen people set the vcarve so that the final layer will be under the surface, then mill off all excess with the CNC.
@@chweatherl I’m having issues with having larger gaps for the glue than I want. Trying to make them fit perfectly. I’ve only seen one video on deep inlays. I’m trying to get 1/2” but I’m learning from trial and error.
@@shaynetcrocker I've done deep inlay for the purpose of 3D carving it. What is your end goal? How are you clamping the pieces together? Even pressure over it all is key to a great inlay.
What are the specs of the bit used? Thanks!
I used an Amana 90º v bit. I like the double ended replaceable blade feature. I have had the bit for 7 years and have used about 6 or 7 blades. It's easy to keep one on hand for when a replacement is needed.
Amana Tool - RC-1102 Insert V-Groove 90 Deg x 3/4 CH x 1/2 Inch SHK CNC Router Bit
Amana Tool - RC-1102 Insert V-Groove 90 Deg x 3/4 CH x 1/2 Inch SHK CNC Router Bit
$131.04
Toolstoday.com
180-day return policy
very helpful ... Thank You!@@chweatherl
All these numbers make sense but my issue remains that when my cnc tries to remove .18 on the first pass, it basically destroys the material on the finer detail. I’m using a Dewalt 611 on millright system. Any tips?
Use a less aggressive angle.. like a 30 degree or 15 degree bit
I've had that happen as well. I found that there really is no need to have your female pocket all the way to .2" you can play with the numbers as much as you want. As a matter of fact, one of my best inlays was done with a .08" flat depth for the female pocket. I can't remember the male numbers off the top of my head.
Run the inlay in multiple passes. Example, I have had good success running the first pass at .078 start depth and the second tool path with a .18 start depth
It took me quite a while to understand how you can make your Start Depth "below the surface". After watching many videos
it dawned on me that you're not just jamming the Vbit down into the material. Because you should run your "clearance toolpath" BEFORE the Vbit toolpath, the material has already been cleared away so that the Vbit will only be using 1/2 of the diameter of the bit to cut the side slope of the path. Hope this helps.
Caleb, I was thinking about your comment. One of the keys to great inlays is tooling. I highly recommend Amana tool's 90º V bit with the replaceable blade. It's really worth the money and with each blade you get two uses out of it.