Advanced V Carve Inlay Tutorial
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- čas přidán 27. 08. 2024
- Making awesome v carve inlays is easier than you think once you understand how they work! Follow along as I show you the steps required to create these with Carbide Create.
Don’t forget to flip your image horizontally for the inlay if it isn’t symmetrical like these stars!
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Watched this for the second time so I can play in the shop and get this down to a science. I appreciate the breakdown on the half cut pieces to illustrate depth.
Sorry to be off topic but does anybody know of a trick to log back into an Instagram account..?
I was dumb forgot my account password. I would appreciate any tips you can give me
@Soren Carmelo instablaster ;)
@Vihaan Ayaan thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site through google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff now.
Looks like it's gonna take quite some time so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Vihaan Ayaan It did the trick and I finally got access to my account again. I am so happy:D
Thank you so much, you really help me out !
@Soren Carmelo No problem :)
Best explanation I’ve seen. The visual aides made all the difference.
Now all I need is to buy a Shapeoko.
Great to hear. Thanks!
Do it!
Thank you for demystifying the process. The visuals were a big help.
Ive been running my CNC for a year now. I've been intimidated to try inlays but this video gave me all the info needed to conquer CNC inlays. Thank you!
Awesome!
So glad you done this video and went so far in depth as to show the different start and max depth’s.
Chris you have been a vital resource through my recently started cnc journey. I thank you good sir
I apologize to anyone who read my now deleted comment about the two numbers not needing to add up. When you cut the "plug" to go into the "pocket" the start depth is how far the plug goes into the pocket, and the flat depth is how much material is sticking out above the surface of the board. The two numbers have to add up, so if you do a .3" depth inlay you have to have a start depth of .2 and flat depth of .1. Or a start depth of .25 and flat depth of .05, etc etc. There is a video of a guy who tried other combinations as well, but you do need some room for that glue to go.
Thank you for sharing this! I also appreciate the extra tedious steps you took to explain the depth offsets because I was lost at first!
Thanks!
I did some small inlay with my XXL when I first got it just using a 1/16 bit and it was still challenging on some of the sharper corners... the way you did would have eliminated 99% of those struggles... great video, thanks for sharing and keep putting out the content- Awesome!
Thanks! Doing them as contours was always a chore.
Thanks Chris. Thanks for tutorial, will need to look at again for it all to sink in. Not used the V-carve yet in CC so nice to see it in action.
I have the same machine, going on a few years and still have not mastered inlays yet. I have tried, just not so great results. I hope after I try this I have a better grasp of a good inlay. I will need to watch this probably 4 to 5 times to really wrap my head around it. Thanks for the video.
Give it a try and let me know how you make out. I’ll do what I can to help.
Quick and easy Chris. Using the "cut away" view should help most people understand the process. I've done a few and I use .2 on the female (pocket) with a start depth of 0. For the male (insert) I use .1 as the start depth and .1 as the flat depth.
Flat depth as in max depth?
@@adamrowedotcom Yessir. In VCarve Pro it is called "flat depth".
Really like these video's they help a lot. I don't have a CNC yet but been practicing on the Carbide Create that I down loaded for free.
Thank you for your excellent presentation on how to use advanced V carve.
Thank you
Great Video Chris, I've done plenty of inlays but always benefit for a refresher course.
Thanks for watching. I appreciate the feedback. I have to dig back into them myself. It’s been a while.
Excellent tutorial Chris. Thank you.
Great 👍 video, very well done. You explained exactly what needed to be explained, clearly, without needlessly extras.
Glad to hear it. It’s hard not to get carried away sometimes.
If you edit your program and place all your T1 together you might have to add a couple lines to program but you can get all cut before changing tool.
im able to drag and drop toolpaths into the order i want them to run. I do all of one size and then the next. Only change bits once per bit.
Great video Chris. Very helpful
For anyone wanting to avoid an aggressive 0.1 in DOC first pass on the inlay step, here's an easy way to fix it:
1) In the Design Tab, create an outside offset for your outlines equal to half your pocket cutter diameter (I'm using a 1/8 in bit so offset was 0.0625 in).
2) In the Toolpaths Tab, select your offset outlines and add a 2D Pocket toolpath w/ these parameters: Starting Depth=0 in and Max Depth = 0.1 in (make sure your tool is the same one you're using for the inlay pocket pass).
3) Drag this new toolpath above the advanced V-carve inlay path.
4) Show simulation and make sure the new pocket isn't interfering with the slopes of your inlay.
5) Unsupress only these two paths and Save gCode. This will now run the pocket at your tool's required depth of cut prior to the inlay.
Voila. No more aggressive first pass! At least for the pocket...
Thanks
THe aggressive cut is exactly what I'm trying to avoid. Thanks for the info.
Good job dude! Really clear and to the point 👍👍
Thanks for taking the time to make this video.
You’re welcome. Thanks for watching.
Amazing !!!! wonderful Video Chris Awesome Job!!
Nice work, I’d like to try this one day.
Thanks. Give it a try!
looks great i may try it
Do it!
awesome video as always..thanks Chris!
Great video you make it look easy. Thanks
Thank you!
Nice! Excellent video.
I need to try this
You've got a new subscriber... Well explained.
Thank you
More good stuff, can't wait to get some time to try this. Thanks
Thank you!
Awesome
Great Explanation, Thank you
Thank you!
Very nice video, learnt a lot
Thanks
Pretty amazing Chris!
very nice
Nice, thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching
Fantastic job! Thanks for the great videos.
Thank you!
Awesome video
I have seen many videos on how to inlay and that there needs to be a gap for the glue. But for cutting boards that gap needs to be significantly smaller.
That’s right. Otherwise you get a hollow sound.
Thanks for explaining everything so well! Very much appreciated
Thank you!
Nice job!!
OMG ITS HERE!!!
Thx much. Very helpful.
Not needed with a symmetrical star but the inlay pieces need to be mirrored if the shapes are not symmetrical
Great, great tutorial!!
Thanks!
Excellent information. This helps a lot
awesome job man keep it up
I noticed that when doing the clearing path on the advanced v-carve that the tool when to full depth, is there a way for the tool to take step cuts, my settings are start depth .150 and finish depth .200
Not with carbide create. You’d need to use something else like Carveco.
If i use a female depth of .2 and then a male with start .1 and max .2 then i get glue gap of .04.
If i use female .2 depth and male .11 start and .2 max i get .2 glue gap.
I like the looks of the second one. What do you think of these numbers? It seems the bigger the start depth number, the less glue gap.
It’s best to make them as tight as possible. Just enough room for glue to fit in.
Awesome, keep em coming!!
Great video, I've been looking at get a xcarve cnc for a while now. If you ever need a handmade beard comb let me know
Look in to the Shapeoko. I was torn between this and an x carve.
@@ChrisPowellFSD I've looked at several cnc machines. I used to run a intorex cnc lathe
Great video, I’m wondering how to mirror on carbide create
When you select an object or objects a mirror tool will pop up on the left side of the screen. It looks like 2 triangles back to back.
Thanks Chris I’ll try that today
Hey @Chris. Great video and excellent explanation of the vcarve process within Carbide Create. The stars looked awesome. Curious about the RPM setting of 10,000 on the 1/8" pocketing - have you found success with that speed when doing pocketing?
Thank your
This is a very awesome video. I would love to give it a try but I don't think I can as I have the X-carve and I think carbide motion is required to use bit setter. I am going to look and see if there is anyway to split the g-code apart so I can run end mill and v-bit seperate.
You could run the collars like I do, or go in and manually edit the g code.
Thanks, Chris! At the end of the video where you are using the surfacing bit, you said that you are doing that "manually"? Can you explain that process?
I just use the manual jog in CM.
Chris Powell I guess I never thought about using manual jog while the router spindle on. Just over complicating things I guess. I’ll give that a shot, thank you for the clarification.
No problem. I use the fastest setting and just take small passes so I don’t remove much material. Run it all the way off the board and move over to make another pass. That will prevent burning or gouges.
That was helpful
Can you do a video on texture tool path for carbide create nonpro version and what its uses are thanks
Yea I’ll try to do that.
Thanks for great detailed explanation. I am a semi-newb, Had my xxl for 4 months now and I've done some neat things for my grandkids. BUT, time to do more serious things like inlay. QUESTION : When you set your initial cutting start point to a value that is below zero point doesn't that cause a problem with the bit dragging across the uncut surface? It seems like it would bury the bit before moving X and Y. Thanks for the great videos. Looking forward to getting carbide pro and doing some 3d relief too....
Not if you use advanced v carve. You still zero at the top of the material, and rapid movements are based off that height.
@@ChrisPowellFSD
Summing it up, what exactly is "advanced" v-carve. what's so special about it that its advanced for the regular v-carve tab. I haven't figured that out yet.
@@iwannaapple7190 it’s just a flat bottom v carve. You can use an endmil in combination with the v bit. It’s their way of coming up with a fancy name for something any other good cnc software has been doing for years.
Is there a way to not have to change the bits so many times such as manually reordering the gcode file?
Yea that would be the way to do it with CC. Better programs, like Carveco Maker, will just allow you to generate g code for a single tool.
Is it possible to make the inlay at a greater depth?
Yea just change the settings of the start and finish depths
What do you mean if you don't mind me asking buy surfacing it manually are you just simply jogging the machine with your computer or controller with the router and surfacing it manually are you just simply jogging the machine with your computer or controller with the router turned on? I just recently got my machine only had it a couple months haven't done a surfacing yet
Yea I just did it like that because it was a small piece. You could also just draw a rectangle around it and do a pocket toolpath.
@@ChrisPowellFSD ok could you do a large piece like this also? and how fast did you have the jogging speed set?
@@splinterfingerswoodworking8995 you could. I do it on fast, which is pretty slow.
@@ChrisPowellFSD thank you for your help
Hi Chris I am brand new to CNC and I have been practicing with Cabride Create and advanced V carve and came across your video.
I really enjoyed watching it but right at the last step i think i missed something?. how did you go from gluing the 2 halves together to surfacing just the plugged stars on top of the cherry.
is this something that has to be done by chopping it in half with another tool when set?
sorry for my lack of knowledge and great video
I cut off the bulk of the material with the bandsaw.
do you have a video on how to do surfacing with cc?
Just my wasteboard video. You can just draw a rectangle and use a pocketing tool path, or jog manually like I did for this one.
@@ChrisPowellFSD if you jog manually, in CC is fast, to fast to jog or ?
Fast is fine. Just don’t try to take too much off at a time. .050” is usually good.
@@ChrisPowellFSD thanks Chris!
thank you so much
You’re welcome
Do’nt you have to mirror the inlay?
Yes, If it’s not symmetrical.
Very nice Chris,, I run V-carve and will be giving this a shot also on there when I get the chance,,, what size was this piece of cherry you did this on?? I am wanting to do cutting boards like this.
Thanks. This was 5x7”. A flag cutting board is in my near future.
60 deg v bit seams like bit of choice when doing a inlay? Thank you for the vid helping me a lot got my first cnc in dec. All them bit changes is that software making you do that? i have onefinity and vcarve. You should look into them. but maybe i just have not went crazy with mine yet:)
The sharper the angle, the better. I use Carveco now. I was using Carbide Create for this video.
Good afternoon. New to CNC, Apologies of this question has been asked before. I am trying to do a inlay into a cutting board with families name. Can this same format that is used for the Union Stars work for inlay letters and script? Thanks in advance.
Yes it can. Just be sure to flip the image for the inlay since it won’t be symmetrical like the stars were.
@@ChrisPowellFSD Great advice! Thank you!
Hi Chris, thanks for a great inlay tutorial. I started with a simple inlay text and it worked great. The text wasn't very wide so the vcarve for the pocket was not very deep and the example Start and Max values of .2in and .3in worked fine. I then went to a larger inlay for a cutting board and again the pocket portion was very straight forward. However for the inlay portion the very first cut was super deep (.21in) which I assume is the "starting depth" plus the "depth per pass" value. Is there a way to address this so that first pass isn't so aggressive?
Unfortunately I don’t think there is with Carbide Create. If you take it slow it should be ok. The pieces get a little brittle anyways depending on your design, so you usually need to slow way down anyways.
Does VCarve do this properly? I'm coming up to the end of my free year of Carbide Create Pro and need to make a decision which software to proceed with.
Found a work-around:
1) In the Design Tab, create an outside offset for your outlines equal to half your pocket cutter diameter (I'm using a 1/8 in bit so offset was 0.0625 in).
2) In the Toolpaths Tab, select your offset outlines and add a 2D Pocket toolpath w/ these parameters: Starting Depth=0 in and Max Depth = 0.1 in (make sure your tool is the same one you're using for the inlay pocket pass).
3) Drag this new toolpath above the advanced V-carve inlay path.
4) Show simulation and make sure the new pocket isn't interfering with the slopes of your inlay.
5) Unsupress only these two paths and Save gCode. This will now run the pocket at your tool's required depth of cut prior to the inlay.
Voila. No more aggressive first pass! At least for the pocket...
Hello sir thank you for the video appreciate the information question I'm following your template to the T but having an issue with the stars not fitting correctly the arms of a star seemed to break off during the milling process any tips? Thanks again
What are your feed rates at? Maybe knock them down a little
Hello sir,
thank you for the reply my feed rate is it 30 my plunge rate is at 10 my depth per pass 0.080. RPM 1000
My stars are coming out differently when using the CNC. What board do you use for the Unions? I am assuming my ztar issue is from warped boards, but if I plane it, the back isn't flush with the rest of the stripes. Any suggestions?!?
I use premium pine 1x12 from Lowe’s. Try to position them so if there’s any bow, it’s facing down in the middle, and use clamps to pull the edges so it’s flat. Have you surfaced your wasteboard?
Another good and simple tutorial, I loved the multi-star examples describing the gaps. Now a challenge: Combine the inlay technique with your wavy flag technique. I am just joking, it would not be worth the machining time to do it.
I’d actually love to be able to do one like that, but CC isn’t up to the task. I’m not even sure if programs like Carveco and Aspire can handle that. I need to start looking into it.
@@ChrisPowellFSD It could be neat, I just meant it as a joke.
Hi. I have just bought a Freud Mortising bit in in order to have a tool for surfacing like yours but...which are the correct speeds and feeds for it. Which do you use??
I like to start everything at 100ipm with a .05 doc and make adjustments from there.
@@ChrisPowellFSD Ok Thanks!!!!
How do you scale the stars without distorting them? Every time i try to make the stars smaller or bigger they get distorted, and look jacked up
thanks
Make sure it’s adjusting the x and y direction together.
Would you change your starting depth for the inlay for a different v-bit? I just tried an inlay with a 15 degree v-bit and when I glued it up I had no gap. It it ended up not being a tight fit when it was done.
I still have to experiment with that myself. Try doing the stars like I did and see what happens.
@@ChrisPowellFSD Thanks, that is what I was thinking. I appreciate your help. You look familiar, were you in the Navy?
I have the same issue with a 30deg bit, inlay ends up way to loose.
Hey Chris - When you did the advanced vcarve on the pockets you switched to a custom V for tool #1. Do I need to configure one to match your settings? When I select the standard 302 I dont get the small flat cut at the bottom of the star. Thanks
There wasn’t much of a flat area anyways because they aren’t very deep. The pocket can just be a regular v carve in this situation.
@@ChrisPowellFSD Awesome - I'm a noob and your tutorials have already helped me out a bunch. Thank you for the time you put in to teach others.
Thank you. I’m glad to hear they’re helping.
So I've wondered about this for a long time now. I've done a couple inlays successfully per your video. But my latest attempt has failed for the following reason: In the video, you say to set the start depth on the inlay carve to .2. As I understand it, this is two tenths of an inch below the surface. So naturally it carves way too deep, probably .25 below the surface. It obviously wants to snap the bit, even when slowed wayyyy down. But is this not what you said? Thanks. Allen, KC Missouri
I believe it was a .1 doc and a .1 offset for the start depth.
Hey Chris
I use carbide create but on a onefinity when I do advance vcarve it only gives me one file so when the straight bit finishes there is still the bit to complete the carve problem is that it doesn’t allow me to lift up and change bits so I have to change to a v bit zero and restart so it cuts air till it pauses to do the bit change then I repress start and continue to finish how can I separate the advance vcarve in 2 files or I make one file and save with the straight bit including the bit carve but I only use the first portion of the file then I do a advance vcarve without the tool num 1 which is the straight bit ?
This is the easiest solution. czcams.com/video/uM4gY6qSds4/video.html
Problem is it stops so low you cannot get it out
How do you now they the inlay piece planed down?
I trim the excess on the band saw and surface it with the cnc.
I understand the geometrical concepts at the 20000 foot level, but am unable to come up with a formula for the various numbers involved. If my pocket is say p inches deep (say 0.2) , and I want to design the plug to have a glue gap of g inches (say 0.03) , and have it stick out by s inches (say 0.1 inches) , what is the equation for the start depth and max depth? Would really appreciate any help as my attempts are giving random results.
I just experiment with different settings to see what works best.
@@ChrisPowellFSD I spent some time puzzling about this and trying to come up with a formula... it seems to me that the "start depth" is the depth the "male" part will insert into the female pocket, and the "max depth'" - "start depth" will stick out of the pocket. So if you are starting with the `female pocket depth of p inches, and you want a glue gap of `g' inches, and want the positive to stick out by `s' inches, the start depth when cutting the male part must be (p-g), and the max depth must be (p-g+s). Do you agree?
At the end when you were surfacing it. What do you mean you did it manually?
I just jogged the machine manually
@Chris Powell with the arrows in carbide create? I have one of automatic starter for the router. How can I do the same? And ty for all your help
great video!
Thanks!
What surfacing bit do you use?
It’s just a cheap Freud 1-1/4” dado bit.
I'm trying to use CC Advance V carve to do inlays and UGS .
WHEN I DO THE POCKET... it's very small compared to the inlay.
I'm using the same image size for both tool paths.
Using 1/16 end mill and 60' v bit
See attached photos
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Folloeing your video
Did you offset the start depth?
Is this only in carbide create pro? Thought we get it free for a year but I can’t save g code so it doesn’t really help
Pro gives you 3d carving but advanced v-carve is part of the regular/free feature set.
They have a free year trial going on now.
Tyler. There are two options for Carbide Create Pro. I don't understand why but if you want to PM me (Clinton Craig Caraway on Facebook) I can show you how to get Carbide Create Pro with all the features and capable of saving the g-code.
Thanks to Clinton I got it all figured out. Thanks guys. Now to start Inlays thanks to this video
HI, Thank you again for your excellent presentation on advanced V carve. I have a question that I haven’t seen addressed on any you tube video, I am wanting to hog out a lot of material to make a hollow body Tele. Can I use the 1” surfacing bit to take out a large amount of material or is this safe to use for this application? Thank you in advance for your response.
You can use the surfacing bit, but don't take out too much at one time. I usually limit it to 2 mm or less to be safe.
you should turn on the lights when you make a video.
I’ve actually been turning them off. I’ll have to try that.
Having a problem with the stars losing their strait lines when moving it from inkscape to carbide. Do I need to resize in one or the other?
Maybe it’s not tracing correctly in Inkscape. Honestly, I’ve only used it a handful of times, and wasn’t a fan. I use Carveco Maker to do my vector tracing and editing.
Are you using Vectric software? Also what brand are your clamps ? Thanks
This was Carbide Create. I’ve upgraded to Carveco Maker Plus since making this video. The clamps are PwnCNC
Thanks for the info
0.1" is still too big a gap to glue. 0.04" (1mm) gap is perfect for normal wood glue.
Wait you didn’t have to zero out when you changed bits?
Because of the depth stop collars I use. Check the link in the description.
So none of them fit, not sure what I was supposed to learn.
None of what fit?
I’m lost
I guess you made this 2 years ago. Hopefully things have changed and you don't have to run the same file twice?
I keep hearing this about people running the same file twice and I really don't understand why? It must be carbide motion thats the problem?
While I am very new and don''t know what the heck I'm doing half the, make the most, I could run that all day long in one file and that includes raising and moving the z axis to change the bit and hitting the resume button. Can you not raise the z-axis to change the tool? Can you not choose a safe z to which it retracts too?
But however, I have seen problems after 3 tool changes and a considerable depth cut. It seems carbide create forgets all about that safe z and runs right through previous cut wood. I've seen reference to this about carbide create and its starting to be my opinion but I need to cut some more wood to be sure as I may have made a mistake. But none the less, doing what you , wait a minute! I get it. You just did a simple project as an example. I still don't get it though. It has crashed through my work but I don't think that is due to multiple tool changes. That has to do with a bad tool path.
Yea it’s an older video