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4R70W Bind up on 2-3 shift
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- čas přidán 24. 06. 2017
- In this video, i have to repair this trans under the warranty, it came back with a bind-up on the 2-3 shift, the mechanical diode must free wheel in 3rd and 4th gear, the part was locked up and would not turn in either direction, this is what caused the bind-up.
Thank you.
Wow I've done several hundred rebuilds on these transmissions and I was never able to get the input shaft/reverse drum assy out without taking out the valve body and o/d band first,,,cool trick you did (unhooking) the band the way you did.
Also since the mechanical diode intermediate one way clutch is usually bullet proof and rarely fails;;;; I would suspect possible towing with the driveshaft in,,,,note also if towed a long distance with driveshaft in you would see bushings spun out of the drums and gears
Correct, Haven't seen many of those diodes fail
Very good information thank you sir
Thank you
Great video!
2:47 Through the hole where the oil runs, should a plug go? I have a F150 and it doesn't have a plug there, I don't know if that's bad, ty for the video and sorry for my ban english
No, it's ok if no plug there
@@GaryFerraro Thank you so much!
Great video again thanks
Graham Hobbs thank you
Hello Mr Gary I have a 2003 f150 4.6 that it takes like 2 or 3 sec to engage the first gear , same thing with reverse, and also when I'm climbing a hill and I'm already in a fourth gear it goes back to a third to get more strength and that's when I feel it kick, kind of hard .so I was planning on rebuilding the transmission myself any suggestions what kit should I buy, this time is not going to the shop. I don't want to happen the same thing like the 62TE. Thanks again.
Ok thanks gary ill pull the pan and valve body and take a look
Gary one more thing will I be able to change the overdrive piston with the transmission in the truck?
Have to drop out the valvebody, but the band will come out of place. There is an opening where something can hold the band in place, but you have to look at it. Also, the o/d spring on the piston is very heavy, little tough to do in the car.
Thanks
Am back on business lol.how are you my friend.always looking for problems lol good to see u body.
Doing ok, shop is busy
If a person was to try rebuilding his own transmission,how would he find out the weak parts or recommended after market and or factory upgraded parts to get? Thanks for the video.
amtpdb1 I could advise you on that. What are you working on
This was a general question for the most part. I was thinking ahead to my 4r75w in my 2004 f150 5.4l. Thanks for the videos. I enjoy seeing how this was done. I remember sending my 61 Mercury and my 74 mustang to the shop and the transmissions never were right again! Thinking about the trucks transmission as I don't want to go through that again and would like to try it myself. Thanks again.
Ok, any questions just let me know
Any advice you could offer for an issue I'm experiencing? 2003 f150 with the 4R70W. Couple days ago my vehicle suddenly failed to upshift from 2nd gear, acted as though it was in neutral or even dropping back down to first.. Not quite sure but it would just rev if I gave it gas. No codes or odd noises while driving after this happened, fluid looks/smells good, no issues leading up to this (76 k miles on the truck) Anything I could try that might fix this issue? I've read it may be a clogged transmission filter, possible damage to the direct clutch, etc. Just wondering if you've ever encountered an issue like this.
Ok so basically no 3rd or 4th?
Did you figure out what it was? I have the same issue
@@oaky209211 forward clutch drum was split. Ended up rebuilding the transmission myself following Transmission Bench CZcams series. Parts were also purchased from his website and upgraded with multiple items from Sonnax. Rebuild process was stupid easy due to him explaining everything so well
2000 f150 5.4 automatic.
My issue is that the transmission seems HESITANT to shift from 1st to 2nd then second to 3rd gears SMOOTHLY. Not much jerking (I ride motorcycles so I know transmission jerks). My overdrive light works fine, the check engine light ISNT on. I took it to a transmission shop and their scanner threw all kinds of weird codes but the mechanic said NONE of those codes would effect the transmission this way!
did the trans shop say you need work on the trans?
I know this a old video but i have a 06 f150 and my transmission slips and won't run anymore on 3 gear. 1st and 2 work fine. World this be the problem with mine ?
What happens when it shifts to 3rd, does it seem like it binds up or does it seem like it goes into neutral?
@@GaryFerraro it feels like it goes into neutral
@@maxt7911 Then the direct clutch is no good, the trans will have to come out, direct drum is located all the way in the back of the trans
@@GaryFerraro ok thanks it will be my 1st transmission that I'll be taking apart... and was wondering what do you think of a rebuild kit called monster transmission rebuild kit do you think it's worth the money ?
@@maxt7911 can you send me a link or tell what the kit consist of?
Hay gary I have a 1998 Ford F-150 with a 4 R 70 w in it I am having a problem with overdrive when it goes to go into overdrive it slips into neutral and then goes and slams into overdrive if I'm doing over 50 then it goes right into overdrive no problem what do you think the problem thanks
If 3rd gear is ok, you have a problem with the overdrive band or the piston that applies the band
Hello I am from Chile and my English is not the best, there are two terms that I can not understand, bind up shift and shift bump, will you help me explaining each of them?
Thanks
First, Greetings from New York. When a transmission shifts, timing is everything. If a clutch or band is applied to early the transmission will bind-up on the shift(apply before the the other component is released). Or if a band or clutch is applied to late, the transmission will have a flared shift( a flared shift is when its making a shift, the component did not apply yet, the trans for a moment will go to neutral and then into the other gear)
I have an aode and after changing the fluid and installing a shift kit i lost 4th gear a couple days later. I took out the vb cleaned and inspected it but could not see anything that stood out. Shortly after i lost reverse and would not shift out of second. Any ideas?... Side note there is a loud sound i thought might be a rod knock but someone says it could be my flexplate to torque converter
so you have no 2nd ,4th or reverse?
Gary Ferraro , I have no 3rd, 4th or reverse i think. I might have 3rd but it may just rev so high that it doesn't seem like i do
ok, do you have manual 3rd and manual 2nd on the shift column? What im thinking is you have no 2nd, 4th or reverse which would be a broken drive shell. So when you are driving and it makes a shift pull the shifter to manual 2nd and give it gas, see if it hold or the engine revs up
Gary Ferraro so I eventually lost all movement forward and reverse.it just revs no matter what the shifter position is. I just pulled it and the first thing I noticed was that retaining clip that you stated you replaced with a spiral one was not where it should have been. Also the overdrive band was not secured like yours was. What are some other things I should look for
What year is the car?
Interesting, so the sprag sticking and causing a bind up on the 2-3 shift more than likely would have burned the direct clutch I would think since it's trying to apply but meeting resistance.
sprag should freewheel in 3rd and 4th gear
what happens when it bind up while driving ? any noise ?
may not be noise, just feels like your putting the brakes on
How long did this trans go before the diode failed?
cjones4512 I think it was about 4 or 5 months
I have a 97 Grand Marquis and it has a soft 1-2 shift , I was wondering if the accumulator would cause this? the fluid is beautiful and even smells good
Ok, question, has it always had a soft shift and you want it firmer?
I would like to sure it up a bit , I know this type of car is supposed to have a soft shift but its just a little to mushy for me . if there is something within reason I could do possibly without rebuilding the entire unit . thanks for responding so quickly , love the video's
You could try a transgo shift kit, or maybe put heavier springs in the 1-2 accumulator which is located by the valvebody
I appreciate that , the shift probably wouldn't bother most people but I'm kinda OCD about things . Thanks for your help Mr, Ferraro .
Welcome, quick tip, if you take the 1-2 accumulator down, right behind the cover, there should be a spring, if theres only 1 in that location, put a smaller spring inside the larger one that should beef up the shift
hi gary i have a 08 v6 f150 have code p0731 and 1744 can these just be electrical like solenoids thanks
These are mechanical codes, the P0731 Is gear error in 1st, does this slip on takeoff?
@@GaryFerraro thanks a lot. Im learning 4r70s and first time i see this code. I want to do transmissions this year. But im learning on my own. Your videos as well as others are fantastic. Thank you again for teaching us
@@aurelioaparicio7854 Your welcome, any questions my e mail is gsferraro@yahoo.com
If the direct drum seal fails, could this cause a failure of the mechanical diode? example: driving 60mph the direct drum seal FAILS car drops into 2nd gear RPM shoots up engaging a harsh 4-2 or 3-2 shift. I believe this takes a free-wheeling mechanical diode and locks it up with excessive force
I honestly had never had that happen when 3rd failed, and 3rd is a common failure.
@@GaryFerraro Alright i think i got the story of what happened to me; on driving at 60mph+ and turning off the OD, the mechanical diode failed causing the direct clutch pack to burn up. this was a 4-2 downshift/lockup. I replace the direct drum clutch/seal. (I thought the direct clutch seal failed, and was to blame for the damage) I drove the car after "fixing it" witch left me with a binding shift on 2-3. Took it apart AGAIN and yes, the mechanical diode was busted from the first incident.
@@xXRacer9000Xx That diode has to freewheel in 3rd and 4th, if it's locked then that diode is bad
Great video. Very surprised how quickly you can take apart this transmission.
I have an issue Id like your advice on please Sir. I am in the UK and this transmission is quite rare here so I'm not sure I want to be somebody's test mule and will try to resolve this myself ... with your guidance.
1995 AODE with a Hughes 2300 stall converter and fitted with a Trans Go HD2 shift kit. The trans only has 28000 miles and somebody has clearly changed the trans fluid in that time as it was fitted with an aftermarket filter and the plastic bung was missing.
I got the trans and drive line from a totaled 1995 Mustang so cannot say if this issue already existed. I fitted the HD2 shift kit myself and didn't notice anything to be alarmed about at the time. Then the trans sat on a shelf for 3 years whilst I restored the chassis of the car. (sorry this is long but I like to give as much information as possible).
After fitting the trans recently and filling with fluid I found I cannot get the trans to up shift from 2 to 3. It does NOT neutral, it just stays in 2nd gear. This is both in Drive and in manual 2nd with or without the overdrive activated. I am using a USShift Quick 4 controller. The car has a softer 1-2 shift in drive but manually the 1-2 shift is nice and crisp and will chirp the tires quite easily, not harsh, just nice, firm and instant. However, it just wont go into 3rd (stays in 2nd) and subsequently wont go into 4th (Overdrive).
Here's the confession. When I fitted the Trans Go shift kit I followed their instructions to the letter. HOWEVER in their instructions they advise you to check the overdrive servo bore for wear but they do not mention that you have to make sure the Pin locates back into the Overdrive band.I did check the bore but knew nothing at the time about locating the servo pin back in the overdrive band. Therefore my lack of overdrive could be caused by my own ignorance but I'm presuming it has nothing to do with not having third gear.
I would really appreciate any advice you can offer me before I go into the valve body once again. I have never built a trans before but I have built motors and am quite methodical in my approach to these tasks.
Thanks once again for a very informative video.
Mark
Hi Mark,
If you remove the Overdrive servo to install the shift kit, the band fell out of place if you didn't secure it, that will give you no 4th. For no 3rd, i would check the sprag to make sure it's operating ok and the direct drum is the small drum in the back of the transmission, that is 3rd and stays on for 4th. So it does't make the shift, when it goes for 3rd, it doesn't seem to spin up like it's in neutral?
@@GaryFerraro
Hi Gary thanks for the quick reply.
For 4th Im almost certain it will be the fact I didnt know about the band moving then I check the O/D servo bore and its no longer holding.
Oh well lesson learned and not too difficult a fix hopefully.
As for 3rd no it doesnt flare or spin up or neutral at all so far as I can tell.
I have contacted USShift about this and sent them a data log and they advised that I replace the OSS sensor as there was an erratic mph/speed reading on the data log. They also suggested this could be the cause of the loss of third because their computer gathers information from all the sensors before commanding each shift. However, Im not convinced as the display clearly shows the computer commanding 3rd ... the trans itself just want to play ball.
My research on these transmissions and very limited knowledge is more inclined to believe if its an electrical fault then its more likely to be a faulty No.2 shift solenoid (or harness) but having said that I have tested them in the car with the motor off and can hear them clicking on the 2-3 and 3-4 upshifts and the 2-1 downshift. I know an audible clicking is no guarentee they are doing what they are supposed to do so plan on fitting new Ford solenoids when I go in to examine the O/D servo and band.
As you suspect it could be a direct drum issue is there a way of knowing for sure via a pressure test of the direct pressure port in any particular gear?
Once again I really appreciate your input. Very generous of you thanks.
Mark
@@Lilzsnr There is a direct clutch(3rd) pressure tap, right side of the trans in the rear of the case, i believe there are 4 pressure taps on the right side, last one is for 3rd, should be marked direct, you can put a gauge on that see what you have. Do you have a scanner that reads live data?
NO Scanner Gary, but I can data log using the USShift Quick 4 transmission controller. What kind of pressure should I be seeing at that port ....and I take it I should be driving the car when I check it not idling?
Thanks again for you replies.
@@Lilzsnr I would like to make sure the neutral switch is reading correctly, when in reverse scanner reads reverse when in drive scanner reads drive, also want to make sure computer is commanding 3rd gear, does it show this information?
Nice work
I'm missing the first gear in my transmission
I have code0781
Truck takes off in second gear,shift smooth trough all the gears up and down but when it has to switch down from 2nd to first I get the code
What can possibly be
Thanks
What year is the car?
@@GaryFerraro 2001 f150
@@armandsauciuc in the upper left hand corner, there is an accumulator piston, something may have happened to the piston, cover or springs. The 781 code, is that 1-2 shift error?
@@GaryFerraro thanks a lot
I will let you know if I find the error
@@armandsauciuc ok, sounds good
I. check. everything. seems to. be. normal. epc. maybe
What is the year, make and model of the ford?
2005. Ford. f150. I. change. valve body. it. for. better. but. sometimes. it ll. do. an small. flare. and. some time. a. sound. and. then. coming. down to a. stop. rpm. moving. like. up. and. down. shifting
daniel sanchez wtf! Punctuation much?
I. just. rebuilt. a. 4r75. w. taking. off. neutralize. first gear.
First check fluid level, if ok solenoid reg valve may be stuck, valve is located next to manual valve
thank u. for. it. help
Great video, thank you. I have a 4R70W, that slips out of first. I put a gauge on the fwd port and pressure looks good until gas then it goes to 0 then sometimes will randomly engage. It is a "new" transmission. If I put it in manual 1,2, it drives normally. If I manual shift into drive from 2nd it will drive. If it come to a stop and try to go, it may go for 2 feet then appear like a slip out. R works. It has an electric bauman controller and I've seen it go into Overdrive 3rd. Do you think it could be a solenoid/regulator in the valvebody? Thank you for your time. I've also made a video of it - czcams.com/video/-1b1F7sYXgE/video.html
What year is the van? Is there by chance any solenoid codes?
@@GaryFerraro it's a 1964. The controller has no error codes.
@@reeferaddickt66 Could be a sticky solenoid reg valve, could be a sticky #2 shift solenoid or for some reason the #2 shift solenoid is getting grounded, when this happens the solenoid closes and strokes the 3-4 shift valve releasing the forward clutch. You could always hook up a volt meter to the control wire for the #2 solenoid and make sure it's not becoming grounded when it drops out
@@GaryFerraro Thanks Gary, you're the man. Stay healthy and safe!
A W Your welcome. Stay safe
first.!
Yep, it happens, not to much thank god