Tear Down FORD 4R70W Automatic transmission Disassembley
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- čas přidán 4. 11. 2015
- The 1st step in rebuilding an automatic transmission is knowing how to disassemble it properly. Watch as I take apart this rear wheel drive Ford 4R70W automatic transmission out of a 2011 E-250 van. Videos on subsequent steps on how to rebuild this transmission are coming soon, stay posted and subscribe. A video to rebuild this unit can be found here • How to rebuild Ford 4R...
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This is the guy you would want to work on your transmission. You can tell he has done this probably hundreds of times. Really cool to watch for someone like me who is not knowledgeable about transmissions
Best Ford transmission was the C6. I had one in my 1986 F150 it lasted over 350,000 miles when I got rid of truck after the second engine rebuild. First engine lasted 200,000. I changed engine oil every 3000 and transmission fluid every 25000. I also always put magnet on engine oil filter and one on transmission pan. That common gear problem is engineered in that transmission. Just low grade gear. Great the case wears out, they could of used a bushing. Great video, you sure know that transmission.
WOW! You are absolutely amazing! My 1999 F150 trans is messed up because I drove 220 miles with the driveshaft disconnect engaged. I wish you could be my rebuilder. You really know what you are doing!
Man, you are good! I really like watching a craftsman at his trade. I wish I could still wrench. I have been around hot rods, racing, building, etc,. since I was 5 years old (currently 56). I had a bad accident about 6 years ago that ended my career,
Keep up the GREAT work!
Absolutely amazing how u know this//on top of who ever thought of how to build a transmission in the first place
I love building transmissions because I have always found the engineering to be absolutely amazing.
I've watched this 2 years ago but this dude's so frigging on point I had to watch again
Hey thanks!
Great vid,
My first auto trans rebuild was a 4r75w.
I've done about 10 of these trans and in every case the sprag clip was bent/distorted or off. I always used the aftermarket spiro-lock type.
I made a tool that makes doing the servos much easier, basically a bar that spans the bore anchoring to the case bolts, then a center threaed plunger that presses the piston into the bore.
For guys at home the worst part is rebuilding the reverse piston . Best to have the OTC adapter set for install for install of the belleville. Also the teflon seal installer and resizer is pretty much a must have.
Main issues with hard part I have found rebuilding them where worn pumps, bad drums due to the weak stamped steel around the snap ring channels. Most just burned up from overheating in towing and police use.
++++ to always adding a shift kit to these
You say that this is not to difficult. That's easy to say for someone who's probably taken a couple of hundred of these apart. When I first started to watch this I thought yeah I can do that but then you kept disassembling and my head started to spin lol. Would you maybe have a more detailed video? Your the master!!!
Great video I learned a lot. Lots of background noise hard to hear at times.Need to fix the air leak lol!!
Your awesome.I like how you explained how the gears stripped because of weight.Thanks for explaining what the large snap ring did for the band.Great video.
Who ever you are rebuilding this transmission / your a fucking genius / that is absolutely amazing/ I wish I had ur help on my 95 Ford F-150 4.9 inline
Wow. That's what knowing what you're doing looks like😮
MM,
I watched this and the 4R70W rebuild videos and I am really impressed with how you walked us thru it. I watched both but couldn't figure out what The issue with mine could be. The transmission on my 03 expedition wouldn't move the forward at all after exiting the highway and coming to a stop. I figured the gearing is ok as it went 65 down the highway fine, torque converter was locked. It popped into reverse no prob.
When I put it in drive, 2 or 1 with or without the OD on the engine revs up and it feels like it wants to go. Like a standard tranny with the clutch released a little bit. At 16:00 into the video I got pretty stoked, you pull apart the forward drive or drum, open it up and pull out the frictions. I waited for you to say "this is where you always . . . ". But nope, it doesn't seem to be the issue.
With 225,000 miles on an 03 Expedition I can't see putting in a rebuilt or even used tranny. I thought I could rebuild it but now I see why tranny work costs, they are really complex. I just don't know what it could be. I'll check your other videos and hope I can figure it out.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience. I think these pro videos help so many guys out there making a living but just getting by. Giving us the info and confidence we need to do it ourselves is a great thing to do. The details are crazy good, down to needing 8, 9, 13 MM sockets, etc. You and FordTechMakULoco should be given an award for well made videos that help so many folks.
Thanks
Ty for sharing your awesome skillset!! I'm an old school mechanic/mobile and this really helps as I work on a lot of classi c vehicles. Ty sir
Love your videos, this video has saved my bacon!!!! Thank you!!
This is a great video, im about to attempt a rebuild on the same transmission. I lost my reverse gear sadly. Thanks for this video.
Cody Beavers how it workout
Nice work, you're the best, you make it look so easy. Can you do a vid on an AOD please, would love to see tear down and rebuild? Thanks you're awesome.
I been working on an 04 marquis. No forward gears and leaking out front of bellhousing. Never opened up an automotive trans so I’m excited about doing some detective work and find the issues. Very good video Brian.
More than likely the torque converter hub seal on the transmission pump is leaking fluid, and if it's been driven too far with that fluid leak until it stopped moving forward, you might end up with burned up clutch packs, piston seals and bands. Make sure there are dowel pins present on the engine before re-installing transmission. check the torque converter pilot hub and make sure it's not scored up.
Hey thanks for the tips Anonymous. I’m just learning but I will check those components.Taking my time cause I’m a virgin. Really wanna get to know the 4r70w Love my Ford’s
Yeah, I only critically mention to make sure that the engine to transmission dowel guide pins are present, because they help center and align the tranny correctly. The bell housing bolts aren’t designed to hold any torsion or twisting of the engine and tranny. Without those dowel pins, it will twist and misalign the torque converter, crack the pump and eventually cause a fluid leak and possibly crack the flexplate. I’ve seen other shops replace engines and forget to transfer the dowel pins over if not already installed on new or used engines. I know, I was a virgin when I rebuilt a used transmission for my 2002 Crown Victoria when the direct clutch friction welded and burned up
I think you nailed it Anonymous. Front seal was almost falling out. Car was a $500 mechanic special. No codes to check. Battery frozen solid. All I heard was no forward gears but reverse works. No hard part damage but forward clutch discs and steels fried. Stalled out till tomorrow cause I got ramy and and cut the piston seal on the forward clutch
Thanks for the reply fluid is topped off when hot and in park I will drop the pan and check the wires thanks. I think I'm going to have to rebuild it
thanks for your help bro great video
I LOVE YOUR SHOP !!!!!!
Matt: thanks for this video. I have an '04 F140 2WD. One day the reverse stopped working. Two local shops in SF Bay Area quote $3,800 for "full rebuild" without inspection or diagnosing, just test drove it to confirm the reverse is out. I researched and found common Ford problem with the band breaking. After watching your video's, I was confident enough to remove the trans and tear it down. I have automotive skills, but never did transmission work. Sure enough, confirmed the broken band. Everything else in there seems clean and minimal wear (100K on the truck). I am going to buy a soft rebuild kit, and follow every one of your steps. I understand the aftermarket kits have considerably better quality band and seals. Is it common for DIY'ers to rebuild the 4R745 successfully? Is there any absolutely crucial areas I should be really paying attention to? Again, thanks for the great video, much appreciate any suggestions or comment from you.
Great video! Thanks!
Honestly excited to attempt my first transmission rebuild. Only thing I’m not excited about is pulling one myself at the junkyard
That leaky air hose is anoining Jak fix it
Very informative video Matthew. I have this transmission in my 1995 Ford F-150 pickup truck. It functions but has a shuddering effect on mild acceleration. I understand Ford calls it the "washboard effect." Their answer was to put a bottle of friction modifier into the transmission. This smoothed everything out for a couple of weeks and then the shuddering returned. I'm betting this will require a rebuild but I sure would appreciate your thoughts on this. Thank You!
Boy! It is rewarding to see someone who really knows what he is doing. So much of what you watch on CZcams is amateurs acting like professionals. Eric the Car guy has lots of views but knows very little about what he is presenting. You are a master. I have put about a million miles on Crown Vics over the years and never had a transmission problem. Was I lucky or do you think the 4r70W breaks down because of towing or commercial use? Great Video
Hey thanks, you just made my day. Now, my opinion on why Crown VIc 4r70W lasts longer than in a Van is quite simple. Commercial vans are carrying a lot more weight than its lighter smaller cousin, the Crown Vic. The planets in the later units just cannot stand the torque capacity and rarely last more than 100,000 miles in a commercial van. The more weight the owner lugs around, the shorter the life span. Therefore, I have seen the same unit in passenger cars last 300,000 miles plus without a problem.
You got mad skills! But my pet peeve in the shop is a hissing hose. I just got to stop and fix it! Got a 2002 E250 with flashing overdrive light (code 1470?) showing EPC solenoid problem and the harness isn't shorted out. The plug does seep trans fluid though. Problem? What would cause a noise on 3 seconds after shutdown that sounds like ice rattling in a plastic cup?
I can tear it all apart. What I would need help with is getting all that quagmire of the land of a million pieces back together- and actual work! lol
Enjoyed the video.
What about the failure of the OD ring clip that causes so much problem?
great video,
great job
Holy crap that was fast !!!
21:55 your buddy with the impact😂 got the point though, check the rings.
fucking ay! your the man!!!!!! confidence was at like 75% and now its 155%
This is impressive
great video. my truck is wont shift and is making a whining noise in park and neutral any ideas on what it could be?
Opinion on 97 , 4.6, auto and it’s a 70 of course however at cold or warm put in drive it wants shift engage and goes in reverse
Put in reverse it goes forward but once warms slips completely. She’s hit 170k but original owner garages but last year I’ve drove all the time only hauling once and was recently because had transport a car from W.V. to D.C. up and over through mason Dixon and wasn’t long after this happened. I know these trucks aren’t built for hauling nothing but their own weight especially stock gears.
Would like your opinion and it’s not linkage as first place I checked
Great job, where is your shop if I wanna my 2001 Ford e350 club wagon get fixed ? Thanks for the valuable info.
Well done. Could you please fix mine? It just broke 2 days after I bought it. Sucks.
Hola Matthew tengo en mi país una Ford F250 motor 292 y quiero poner una transmisión automática, la pregunta es de q, carro le puedo poner? el carro es tracción trasera saludos y gracias.
Your da man!
i have a ford explorer 4.0 sport track 2000 the transmission gives the code p1747 short circuit solenoid i can't identify the faulty solenoid
I have a 2002 Ford Mustang with about 150k miles on it and it’s having some major hesitation issues and it feels like it’s shifting late. It has almost no acceleration and I can barely make it down the road. Any ideas what it could be i think it could be the transmission but I do t wanna jump to conclusions it is an automatic by the way. And it could have a bunk tune but I’ve reset the computer by disconnect the battery. Also there is no check engine lights. Do you know what it might be?
Is there a 4r70w 2wd with a 302 bellhousing or do I have to change the tail housing on my AWD trans
at 9:24 that part your pulled apart from the pump. There is that gear that goes around the iinput shaft, that bigger gear. It broke off on mine what would cause that to break?
I think I’m in love 😍
What were the things that fell out that he just threw in the nox aside
Hi guys do you know if the 4r70w transmission compatible with the bw1345 transfer
THANK YOU :)
my 08' F150 2wd needs a severe overhaul ...any recommendations in the DFW area ?
mine is stuck in reverse shifter moves on the transmission any idea
Great vid man. Just curious your experiences on direct drum getting stuck on planetary. First time I built it snub was snapped off of direct drum. Had no 3 or 4. 1 year after rebuild it won't move any gear after a little bit of idling. Tore down found center support had rub on it from sun gear carrier above it and the lower sun gear was stuck in. Air hammered it out both bushings came out with the direct clutch and direct assembly was shot bearing all ground up and all the springs ground up in direct clutch.
Mine just lost 3 and 4. That's why I'm here. I don't like the sounds of your comment. Lol. It shifts into the gears and I can feel that, but they are just a nuetral
Great video! You gave me confidence to give it a shot. But I have a question I hope you can help me with.
I know that you can use a 4R70W planetary in an AODE, but do you think you can you use an AODE planetary in a 4R70W? I've heard that you can't, but I don't know why it wouldn't work. The AOD gearset has (as far as I know) the closest 1-2 shift of any traditional automatic and is probably better suited for performance cars with numerically high rear gearing.
you have to be careful when interchanging the planet set. It gets complicated because of the amount of variations Ford made. You even have to be careful changing planets between different 4R70Ws too. The 4R70W has three different planet sets depending on application and year. The changes were so slight and very hard to see. If you keep the 4R70W complete planet as a set, then you just need to look at whether the application requires the front speed sensor. The easy answer is not to do it at all but I have got creative over the years with very little problems. And you can never use an AOD planet in a AODE. These are completely different because of the gear ratio and speed sensor pick-up and ration errors. Basically do not do it.
2 questions boss,;
1.could I use dexron III on my 97 grand marquis and mix it up with mobil atf synthetic which was used in previous trans service?
2.My trans is shifting from 1 and 2 a little bit rough, I have to pull off the pedal of acceleration so it enters 2 gear faster and smooth. If I don't do that it will enter rough what would you think the problem might be?
The car has 96 k miles. 2 trans services, 1st was mobil atf synthetic as I said and 2nd dexron III but I am not sure the last one is suitable for this transmission or mixing it with mobil. Thanks for your time.
first, yes you can mix synthetic and non-synthetic fluid without causing any problems in an AODE, which is the name of your transmission. If fact, that happens all the time when the fluid is changed. One can only remove 5 - 6 quarts of fluid at any given time and the unit holds about 12-13 quarts. Transmission fluid like Dexron is merely hydrolic fluid with red dye and additives. The red dye is only used for identification purposes only. The additives are friction modifiers to prevent harsh shifting.
Next, a 23 year old AODE with almost 100K miles would need to be removed and rebuilt. Most likely the hard 1-2 shift is the result of a worn out intermediate clutch pack. Clutches are like you brakes in that they have a limited life and are designed to eventually wear out. Once the material has been removed, the only way to fix is is to replace those clutches. My guess, your grand marquis will soon slip into second as it wears out a bit more. Don't waste your money on any magic potion because it doesn't exist, unfortunately.
Good luck and I wish I had better news.
ok so i bought a used trans,,, the guy installing it says it dont fit..ok so if i bought a rebuilt kit for mine that he took out how do i know the kit will fit if all the transmissions are so dam different. it will be cheaper to get a 500.00 kit and rebuilt then taking another chance on buying something that looks like it will and because the seller say it will
The hissing hose is a sign of quality !
Lmfao
Nice!! I use ("The Hill Billy Stomp method") hammer too!! Why buy unneeded tools when just ("A TAP A TAPPY") A quick yank or tap on the table ("Hill Billy Stomp") will do?
I've got an 02 f150 4x4. Supposed to be a 4r70w. OD light is blinking, shudders like hell trying to drive forward. Reverse works great though. Thoughts?
The forward drum is cracked
You cant flip a Ford Transmission upside down.The shift seleniod will fall out! Right? Am i Right or wrong! I can ask a Transmission Tech.
hi matt im building a 2007 4R75E , had to replace the direct drum, gear train and the front band was toast. my question is on the direct clutch can i get away with the clearance being under .060? clutch frictions spin nice but clearance is under the minimum. thanks doug
Ya, absolutely works great below.060 direct clutch pack. They make different thickness steels, clutches, and snap-rings for the direct drum. I set them with a small clearance, closer to.030". Sounds like you're fixing the general 4R70-75 boat anchor. I always change ALL the accumulators, all the bushings, and use a transgo shift kit. Also, a new EPC solenoid would be a good investment for your build. Good luck!
hi matt my buddy races crown vics in indiana, his car is a 2004. i have some older cores id like to build him a nice, full manual shift unit. any tips on that would be great. thanks doug
fuuuuuuccckkk that ...im lost... I think I'm going to pay a professional.
Does anybody knows why the connector to the harness can be wet or flooded? I had a code to check for corroded pins and harness. These pins are supposed to be dry? My transmission is running sluggish on the summer time and in the winter runs much better but when it gets hot it runs with loss of torque.
Doesn't sound like trans problem. Probably your catalytic converter.
@@2kwik4u2c no cats, straight pipes, code p1718 ford
@@GiotheGhreat that's a very unusual code. I would have to see the vehicle to diagnose it. But it could be connector. I've seen plenty of times the pins break off from the transmission side into the harness. If there's water, there will be corrosion, and you could look inside harness with a mirror. If so, it's very easy fix and inexpensive.
I have a 2002 p71 with a 4r70w when I put it in Drive or manual first the car doesn't move until i rev it. Then it takes off like I dropped in gear from neutral. The computers is not throwing any codes. Any ideas on what it could be?
First check the fluid. It's not surprising at all for there to be no codes. However, you might still have codes depending on how you are scanning it. In 2002, transmission codes were not part of the Global OBD II system and thus, will not get transmission codes if merely scanning with a global scanner. I always use vehicle specific software when scanning for transmission codes, as opposed to engine codes. Now a days you will find more trans codes in the OBD system, as required.
Nonetheless, I would first start by checking the fluid. This symptom would be apparent during a typical low fluid condition. If it is low, fix the leak, fill the trans back up, and drive away. However, you may not have a typical problem. If fluid is full (check while running in park) then check the condition of the fluid. If it looks and smells burnt then you will need to remove and rebuild the unit. Lastly, you can drop the pan to get a better idea of what is going on, but unfortunately there is no magic potion that will fix an internal problem (despite some far fetched allegations). If the fluid is full, there isn't much you can do other than pull it out.
However, I did run into a very unique problem with this unit one time in a 2002 van. I don't believe this problem will ever get duplicated but the solenoid wires at the bulk head connector had a bad connection, which gave this symptom on take off intermittently. It never threw a code and it only happened about once a week. This would be a long shot though but it is always a good idea to check your connections before condemning the unit. Good luck.
hi Matthew I have a 2000 ford crown vic p71 I have a rebuilt trans when cold in reverse it's smooth but when it's hot it takes a good 10 seconds to kick in gear and I can feel a nice thud do you have any ideas on how I can fix it my self I'm mechanically inclined. I have 198, miles on the engine I have never changed the trans fluid or the filter nore the torque converter .
You are going to have to be more descriptive. I didn't quiet understand whether the trans was recently built or it was never touched? You said trans rebuilt but last sentence says the fluid was never changed? However, if it was never built, it sounds like the forward frictions have worn out. And if it was recently built, the forward drum cracks at the snap ring out of nowhere. It never cracks all the way around most of the time so what happens is a massive delay in drive. Either case, sounds like you need to pull it apart and there is no magic potion that can cure it. good luck.
Please fix the air hose leaking..... That is drive me crazy...lol
wow man that is ruff you from NY lol
Will the shaft turn if the transmission, the input shaft I believe? Having a issue with my 02 ford trans and the input shaft after removing trans will not turn at all
I hope I'm answering your question, you may want to rephrase it to make it a little clearer. But both input and output shafts should spin freely (when shifter is not in park position) otherwise you have big problems.
@@2kwik4u2c yea I kinda jacked that question all up! But I pulled the trans and the input and output shafts do not turn at all while in neutral 1st 2nd!
@@2kwik4u2c thank you
Great videos and training. Inspired me to take the initiative to rebuild mine myself.
I have a 2007 F150 with the 4R75W and the planetary and direct drum are factory welded together.
Is there a work around for this? Or is the part available?
Thanks
First, I'm laughing a little because the planets are not factory welded. Instead, they got so crunched up you can't get them apart and I've been there plenty of time. I usually use a large hydraulic press and hammer to pull apart. Nevertheless, all the parts are available at any transmission parts supplier. I like Transtar but, I'm not here to give anyone business.
@@2kwik4u2c I have a picture that I can send if you like. They are welded together with a welder.
@@davidfranz5197 The way you're saying that the planetary gear set and direct clutch drum are welded together, that basically means that both hard part assemblies got HOT and welded themselves together. there's a bearing that is not removable inside the planetary gear set and that can get destroyed easily by excessive heat, as well as the no. 7 bearing and bearing support in between the direct clutch return spring and the rear of the gear set. Usually, you end up damaging both of them trying to get them apart and chunks of the bearings can ruin and chip away the gear teeth. I'd hate to say this, but you probably need a direct clutch drum (including piston and return spring) and a planetary gear set! I had the same thing happen to my original 4R70W in my 2002 Crown Victoria at around 143,500 miles.
You are right. After closer inspection and a bit of movement they are indeed NOT welded together. thanks for the heads up.
I am the DA!
@@StrangerinaStrangeLand-im4yl
To questions boss,;
1.could I use dexron III on my 97 grand marquis and mix it up with mobil atf synthetic which was used in previous trans service?
2.My trans is shifting from 1 and 2 a little bit rough, I have to pull off the pedal of acceleration so it enters 2 gear faster and smooth. If I don't do that it will enter rough what would you think the problem might be?
The car has 96 k miles. 2 trans services, 1st was mobil atf synthetic as I said and 2nd dexron III but I am not sure the last one is suitable for this transmission or mixing it with mobil. Thanks for your time.
Great job! Your a pro...What's up with all the haters??!?! Great job!
Hey thanks. A little secret, I'm actually a criminal defense attorney and building transmissions got me through law school. I still enjoy it and miss it sometimes.
nice very good ...l sold parts for this company....
The reverse clutch is are in the bottom with your low low and reverse are together what you messing with right there's your 2-3 frictions
No disrespect intended, pointing out a perspective 👍
Actually on the 4r70w the foward drive drum is on the bottom.
I have a 2004 f150 lost 4th and rev no metal in pan and valve body clean your opinion plz
Todd Wallen seen one do that the moon gear was twisted off on the back of the clutch pack
Your check balls are worn.
Check here on CZcams for makuloco ford tech and the valve video on transmission you have problem
Yea ok...i was done after he took the pan off...lol..guy knows his shit
hi i have f150 2005 4.6L transmission 4r70w first present 5 code p0720, p0722, p0731, p0732 and p 2106 and exchance sso and clear all code so now no reverse change. excume my english
robert subero the 720 and 722 are speed sensor codes and 731 and 733 are gear ratio codes, meaning you have an internal problem and your speed sensors are fine. The computer gets tricked into thinking the speed sensors are not working when it has no input. But because of the gear ratio codes you definitely have no input because hard parts are not spinning. Unfortunately, this unit will have to come apart.
Please fix your air leak!
Absolutely!
Hi can a 4buy 4 be used in a 2 wheel drive. if so what would have to be changed
yes, with modifications. Obviously the 4*4 output shaft and extension housing is too short for a drive shaft. If the two units are the same year then you would have to remove the output on the 2 wheel drive and install in the 4*4. This requires disassembling each unit to get to the output shaft. Therefore, I would recommend to freshen up the unit since you will have it apart anyway. Rebuild kits and clutch packs are fairly inexpensive and well worth the money. If you have any other questions, please feel free to ask. I also have a video on how to build these transmissions here czcams.com/video/3WdVTSCM0PU/video.html
I have a ford F250 2003 6.0 4x4 diesel. Transmision is 5R110W. The transmission was repaired recently and after 2 weeks or so the trans temp light started to turn on. Also and at the same time when the transmission changed and I reduced speed the needle in the gage started to switch all the way up and down and the transmission gives a blow. This happens after a little while driving the truck. In your experience what do you think can be provoking this? I have had some issues with the person who fixed it and I am trying to find out what can be happening with the above mentioned problem
Great question. Sounds like the computer sensed an internal problem when the gauge started to fluctuate. Regardless of which guage you are talking about whether it be temp sensor or tachometer, the computer either sensed a slip or that it in fact overheated. These sensors are rarely the problem but rather something inside the unit that is causing it. Especially for the fact it was recently opened up and attempted to repair. Hopefully, you have some sort of warranty and you can bring it back there. Parts on these units have always been expensive and someone attempting to undercut the competition to merely get a job generally loses in the end because they cut corners and fail to replace essential parts. Three main areas of concern: 1) the valves in the pump wear out often, 2) the solenoids in the VB go bad, and 3) the planets blow up. Lastly, you always want to make sure you have a well built TC in the unit after a build. Cheaping out on a TC will make the unit overheat. Lastly, the computer will put the unit in high line pressure until it senses the problem is fixed, which will cause the "blow". Good luck.
hank you so much for your prompt response. Have a great day
I have issue with the person who fixed the transmission. I will need to buy the valve body with the solenoids. Do you know where I can buy this part new at a good price?
I believe this is what’s in my 05 Mercury grand marquis 260k miles (or the R475w) that’s on its way out I saw you wrote you no longer rebuild them and where located in nyc (I’m from the Bronx myself ) could you recommend a good shop ?
Hey, you're correct that I used to live in NY, and that I don't rebuild much anymore. I'm actually an attorney and I rebuilt transmissions when I was in school. I did it for extra money back in the day. Also, I moved down south about two years ago, so I lost most of my old connections and wouldn't feel comfortable recommending any place.
Good luck with your Grand Marquis
@@2kwik4u2c I still appreciate you taking the time to reply to my comment
Man I am gonna do this .
@@mnmlivelove25 good luck 🍀
Amazing how much shit is in there..
I have a 2004 Ford f150 and it will not drive the motor runs but it will not go forward it will drive in reverse. It has me stunned
This is happening to me now. To catch first gear the engine needs to turn 1500 rpm. It slams on the first shift from startup, but when it shifts into overdrive the tramsmission catches no gears, with overdrive turned off it holds onto third. I will use my 2005 expedition with overdrive off until I get it looked at Monday.
Sorry for the late reply but it sounds like a broken forward drum. They crack at the snap ring.
@@2kwik4u2c had it rebuilt. It was just worn. The band was chewed up and the foward drum was catching on the drum. The snap rings were fine. The case was worn at the output, so they replaced that it sounds better now then when i bought it used 130000 miles. Now it has 177777
I got a 05 expedition doing this very same thing
@@overtaxed79 seems low mileage for those transmissions to have that type of failures. Did the previous owner never changed the fluid in the trans or he hauled a lot? I don't understand why would that happen at those miles
About how much on average would this job cost for the exact same transmission?
Juan Lopez 1400 with a shift kit Fresno CA
*Hi, I was hoping you could lend you knowledge & experience to help me make a decision...*
1) Which do you think is a better transmission; the 4R70w or 4R75w... and why?
Specifically in conjunction w a 4.6 sohc v8 (Lincoln Town Car)
2) Between 1998-2011, which do you think is the best model year(s) of the Lincoln Town Car, and why?
Thank you a ton!
4R75 is going to be the best out of those two. Has the heaviest duty parts, and is the last iteration of the AODE type 4 speed trannys from Ford
I like this video how can you be contacted
hey bud. I have a 95 F150 RWD. with a 4R70W auto.. and my trans would jump from 2 to 3rd. doin about 40-50. then it just would go from 2 to neutral. no 3rd. and my overdrive light flashes on my shifter. i did some research and ran some codes and my trans was in Limp in Mode. so i changed the Shift interlock solenoid. i believe it was called. (shares a bolt with the TCC solenoid. and the research i did pretty much said that should resolve it.. there was nothing more than the regular metal dust on the magnet. nothing overboard on it. but all in all i still have the same problem when it was all put back together. but now my odometer doesnt come on and my spedo doesnt work so im wondering if my wire harness (soft wire) did not get plugged in all the way. so ill check that. but at a stand still with the shifting issue. from 1 to 2 to neutral. so ill just ride second gear. ive heard the 2-3 accumulator spring breaks quite frequently would that cause my problem of not being able to get to 3Rd. any feedback would be great. thanks so much man. (p.s. good vid)
John Paul Beckwith do you have 4th gear or is that missing too?
well im not sure. i have no way of getting to 4th that i know of because i cannot get to 3rd its just revs out in nuetral. it will max the rpms in that (nuetral but suppose to be in 3rd state) cause i did hope if i just pin the throttle when i hit that nuetral out of 2nd that it would just jump to 4th when the RPMs got high enough but it did not.
John Paul Beckwith well, from the sound of it you need trans rebuilt. I know that's probably not the answer you were hoping but it's the reality of problem. There is no magic potion or juice that can cure this, only to take it apart and fix what's wrong. which is most likely the direct drum.
ok well we take hits on the chin and keep on pushin man. i really do appreciate your time tho.
Buddy is taking off a axle shaft nut crappy rusty threads in the background yea did not hear a thing you were saying par for the course.Trying to do a vid in a active shop the viewers have to understand you are at work and there is other techs trying to pay their mortgage and there is going to be noise. What is good is your time to do this vid to share your day with us.
I have a ford F250 2003 6.0 4x4 diesel. Transmision is 5R110W. I have issue with the person who fixed the transmission. I will need to buy the valve body with the solenoids. Do you know where I can buy this part new at a good price?
I responded earlier but for some reason it did not go through and it did not save what I wrote. So I will try to summarize what I wrote in a nut shell. First, I am sorry to hear that they are making you pay for a VB after you already paid for a complete overhaul when a VB is part of that overhaul. Next, I hope for your sake that they properly diagnosed this as a VB problem because it could be a number of things like a bad pump or bad torque converter. Although this thread is not about business practices, shops like that give mechanics a very bad name. Needless to say, I used to buy these VBs from the dealer at first, which is very expensive. Once more of these units came into production I was able to buy them used and then buy the individual solenoids separately. Like you said earlier, the VB is merely just a bunch of solenoids, and not a typical valve body. In fact calling it a valve body just does not seem right because of the lack of valves. What I would do is to figure out which solenoid was the problem and bu y just the ones I needed. Then I would rebuild the VB with the 1 or 2 or maybe 3 solenoids I decided were bad. If this is the route you will take or if you purchase a used VB take caution to replace all the little rubber cup plugs, which most people overlook and the actual cause of a lat of failures. Also change the gaskets but I hope that goes without saying. These rubber plugs though rip and cause the internal leaks reducing the pressure, in some cases drastically. I am not here to promote one business over another but I have had a lot of good experiences with a local trans supplier named VTP in Brooklyn. I know they ship nationally and you can talk to John Crook. He is actually located in Florida but the business is here in New York. Good luck, and remember about those rubber plugs!
Thank you so much for your response. I will definetely take your recommendations..
Make sure you keep us posted on what happens. Good luck with everything.
I have a 4r70w Trans in my 97 expadesion
hey can somebody make a video that disassemble and reassemble a 2002 Ford F150 transmission or if thay is a video if somebody could send me a link to it would be really appreciated thanks
above is the disassembly and here is the link for putting it back together: czcams.com/video/3WdVTSCM0PU/video.html Good luck, and if you have any questions, just ask.
I rebuild a transmission on a S-10 Chevy beautiful I just never did a Ford
Thanks
if you built a 4L60E (S-10 unit) without any problems, than you won't have any problems with the Ford.
My son had no leaks coming from his transmission in his 1996 Mustang GT. 2 weekends ago, 1/4 mile from home, he left a trail of transmission fluid all down the street and up into the driveway. He came in panicked and I pinpointed the heavy leak coming from the bell-housing plug. We pull the transmission, drained the fluid (it was very clean and so was the magnet in the drain pan). I pulled off the torque converter and the seal was not there. I look at the torque converter and there it was. In preparation for the repair I bought a front pump rebuild kit and a rebuilt torque converter to make sure everything was totally fixed, before reinstalling. Given this scenario: my gut feeling is that this was just a blown seal that leaked a lot the last 1/4 mile that the car was driven home. It is hard for me to believe that this is anything more than the seal that was completely out of the pump. Advice needed: should I do anything more than just replacing the seal and reinstalling? I have never opened up a tranny before, but have done a lot of research during the last two weeks. Should I rebuild the front pump (I have all the parts to do it) or just put on a new seal and reinstall? New Torque converter (or I could just take back the unopened box and save some money)?
Most likely, the pump bushing is worn out. When the bushing is worn out, the seal can walk. I wouldn't do all that work without changing the pump bushing. And I always use locktight on those front seals. Those front seals commonly walk out and the locktight is reassurance that it's not going anywhere.
@@2kwik4u2c Thanks! I think that is exactly what happened. I replaced the front seal (loctite), bushing, O-ring, and gasket. Thanks for your excellent video that gave me the courage to open up a transmission for the first time.
@@TheLaubachs what fluid do you use in the transmission of the mustang? The mercon v? Or dexron III? Or.. The mobil 1 atf full synthetic? Which one you think is better for this transmissions
What kit is needed for an 02 F150 5.4 4r70w 4x4 transmission
Get a banner kit, filter, transgo shift kit, and overdrive band.
Shannon Stockwell u
Matthew D'Amato should I hear the mechanical diode when I turn in one direction and it locked in the other direction once the forward drum and shaft are installed in the case
Anybody know what would cause a 3/4/neutral condition other than a broken snap ring?
figured out your problem with 3/4 ?? what about bad solenoid or one of the stack valves?
From my research: 1) broken overdrive snap ring holding a piston open, 2) 2/3 accumulator punching a hole in the seperator plate or 3) broken direct drum/smoked direct drum clutches.
Hit it a little bit , slam it a little bit
Mr. Matt or whom ever can help i have a 2008 f150 5.4L 4R75W transmission with no over drive and no 3rd gear, so i used your video help and rebuilt it put in a deluxe rebuilt kit , also new overdrive band , forward drum all new electrical parts, all new pistons, new torque converter. Also a shift kit. i get i back together and installed fill with fluid it goes into reverse great but when i put it in 1st gear nothing until i give it gas and it slips into gear but still don't want to pull off then it starts to studder bad and i get a transmission fault code (speed sensor fault) and it also runs like it has a real bad idle or skip witch it did not have before i removed the transmission Thanks in advance Anyone please help !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Sounds like you may have a pressure leak at the input shaft or forward clutch piston. Did you air check your clutch packs before assembly?
I was thinking about rebuilding mine myself....but it looked to much like a box in a box...ect.. kind of deal ( to many parts )..and oh, I would have rearranged your co-workers grill...WHAT A PRICK !!.......Thanks for the video.
Haha, it's ok. Sometimes it's best left to the professionals. However, I'm sure you'll be fine if you did it yourself. At first, it takes patience, a lot of research, and some tools. I did these videos to help the do it yourselfers. So, good luck if you try, and if you have any questions, just ask.
@@2kwik4u2c thank you so much for your videos. I was thinking, the shop I send my grand marquis 97 to get the transmission serviced at 98k miles for the second time told me that at 65k ( 1st service ) they used the mobil 1 atf synthetic to refill and the last one they used dexron III because they didn't had mobil in stock in that moment . They assured me that it will cause no harm and that the mobil atf synthetic could be mixed with it and my transmission won't have issues using dexron III. What do you think boss?. Should I keep putting in my Trans dexron III? OR Mobil atf synthetic? Which is of course a generic lubricant
@@2kwik4u2c im looking at automatic transmission videos to try and see what a transmission drum is this video was pretty educational even if i still have no clue what one is or how you even remember were all that crap goes its nice to know how complicated the whole thing is makes me appreciate mechanics more than i already do
Great video. It really helps understand how everything is assembled. I have a 2003 f150 with a 4r70w that lost reverse and overdrive today all of a sudden. It has some rough shifts in forward as well. My research is pointing to a broken weld on the planetary sun gear and maybe a burnt overdrive band. Does this sound right?
i would need to hear more information in order to give you a more specific answer. Needless to say, the transmission needs to come out to get overhauled. The sun gear along with the rest of a complete planet set up is generally the cause of failure on these units for this year and up. One bit of advice I will give is to make sure if the sun gear is being replaced that you use a new Ford sun gear. There is a Taiwan manufacturer of Ford hard parts but stay clear away from that brand by all means. For whatever reason, they have yet to perfect the sun gear on these units despite much success on other parts like the direct drum. If you get the inferior brand sun gear, your F150 will leave the shop and most likely be on the road for a few months. But it won't last much longer and the damage when they blow is significant. Usually will wipe everything out. So you have been warned. Lastly, when changing the sun gear, Ford has 3 separate designs that will not interchange and must all match. The differences are slight and almost impossible to tell if you don't know. If you have any questions on identifying what you have, just let me know and I will be glad to go over the differences.
Matthew Mathews Man I waiting to do this but am having second thoughts on my 2 wheel drive 4r70w. Changing it from 4by4 would 2 wheel drive be easier? Lol
Putting it back together looks impossible
czcams.com/video/3WdVTSCM0PU/video.html here is a link of putting it back together. It is fairly easy, especially if you are mechanically inclined. The most critical aspect is making sure you have the proper parts. Ford, along with everyone else, has made so many design changes throughout the years. So you need to be very careful when replacing things. Don't be afraid to ask questions, do some research, and you should be fine.
I bought a parts washer to clean my parts can I use diesel?
I would use solvents in my parts washer, but if diesel is your only option please let me know how it works.
@@2kwik4u2c okay I’ll let you know
@@Chrisbuildsstuff247 i think regular gasoline might be even better. as it easily cleans that oil sludge and drys out fast. . juts dont put it on new rubber seals or friction plates. same with diesel ))) . i flashed a tranny with diesel once, and friction plates turned to dust the very next day. ))
break out the tire hammer
anyone no where to buy check balls for a 2001 ford f15- 4r100
Those things are lying in the cracks of every transmission shop in the world. I don't see why you would need to buy them, just ask your local shop for a few, I'm sure they would be happy to help. The check balls come new in every kit, so the old ones just get kicked to the floor and rarely make it to the garbage. good luck. But if you really want to buy them, call trans star.
Repair your air hose please.
Lil more air slam it on the floor