I want you to know I followed your step-by-step and you are dead on. I can’t tell you how much I appreciate you shooting this video. Keep up the good work, my friend very easy to understand. learned a lot thank you Mark.
Thank you so much, My local Ford dealer did a $200 bypass exactly like this 12 years ago and now it is leaking somewhere on my 02 e450 when going up hills..I'll try adding a check valve next . Then a cannister. So glad you posted this so i could understand what they did.
Fantastic Fix. Will do mine tomorrow but if I could respectfully add; Put shrink wrap and silicone around the red wire where it comes through the 10 mm bolt hole.
Wow thanks! Super easy! Works perfect now. I hosed clamped the second splice where I joined the 2 ends with a universal check valve and small piece of hose.
thanks for posting this video. this fix worked for mine too. my rv sat for quite awhile with low miles before i purchased it. i did not realize i could bypass that whole vacuum box unit. this tip saved alot of time and money!
WHERE did that last black hose come from that you plugged the red line into? I look up in there and there are a total of 5 ports on a vacuum splitter up in the dash about 8 inches above where you show the old line coming thru the firewall.
Thanks for sharing this video but I have a Ford E350 1988 and the heater is not working we cant find where the power comes from there is no power at the switch and no power at the resistance they say that the fuse is the number nine but the fuse is good and all the other fuses also are good but there still no power for this heater would you be able to give me some infor or a link to a video that we can see thank you in advance for your help.
Not sure if this is the same, but my '03 just sat for 2 weeks while on vacation. Worked fine before, but when I got back, heat/AC just won't blend. Truck started right up, and I changed the blend/AC 15amp fuse, but nothing but defrost only heat, which is blowing very strong and hot from defrost only..(under any condition. Idle, load, etc).. So idk, lack of vacuum pressure doesn't "feel like" the issue & would seem something is likely just sticking bc it sat in cold N.E. weather for a couple weeks, but honestly wouldn't know, and don't wanna just start cutting if don't have to.! Any help or a point in the right direction would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
Thank you for the video! I have a follow up question, when you do this and reroute the line that went to the original vacuum canister and stuff, does that also cut the connection to the blend door actuator? I followed your video and I do have air coming from the front vents, but it's still blowing hard out the defrost and does not switch when I switch it to vent instead of defrost. Will it do me any good to switch out the blend door actuator now?
It is(it won't hurt anything) but with mine i noticed when climbing large hills or mountains it would go to defrost again. Might be a secondary issue with mine or a bad check valve.
Need to do it correctly and replace the vacuum reservoir and check valve, put them above the passenger's foot well, easy fix. Get reservoir and check valve from Amazon, Ford, or NAPA?
I want you to know I followed your step-by-step and you are dead on. I can’t tell you how much I appreciate you shooting this video. Keep up the good work, my friend very easy to understand. learned a lot thank you
Mark.
Single mom here I fixed my cousin's who has a 01E350 box van 4 his woodshop thanks 2 your video. Thank you so very much an love your voice 👍
Thank you so much, My local Ford dealer did a $200 bypass exactly like this 12 years ago and now it is leaking somewhere on my 02 e450 when going up hills..I'll try adding a check valve next . Then a cannister. So glad you posted this so i could understand what they did.
Fantastic Fix. Will do mine tomorrow but if I could respectfully add; Put shrink wrap and silicone around the red wire where it comes through the 10 mm bolt hole.
Thanks so much!! Church van to camp won’t be a sweat box because of you!!!!!
Wow thanks! Super easy! Works perfect now. I hosed clamped the second splice where I joined the 2 ends with a universal check valve and small piece of hose.
thanks for posting this video. this fix worked for mine too. my rv sat for quite awhile with low miles before i purchased it. i did not realize i could bypass that whole vacuum box unit. this tip saved alot of time and money!
Fixed my 98 Tioga in 30 minutes. Thankyou so much.
Thanks for posting, your video was the simplest way to get it done, got mine done easily and works great, thanks again....
thank YOU FOR POSTING THIS IT WORKED PERFECT ON MY 2011 e150
I also have a 2011 e150. The red tube in the video is black on mine. Was it the same for you? Just checking before I do anything lol
Thank you so much. Worked perfectly
Excellent fix, I checked mine out today that hose is almost impossible to get to, I will do the same, Thanks
Thanks for the video, yours was the simplest way, got it done and works great, thanks again......
Genius. Worked perfectly.
Works like a champ …thanks
Thank you! Worked like a charm, took longer than 15 minutes for me though. lol
I need this dudes help so bad
WHERE did that last black hose come from that you plugged the red line into? I look up in there and there are a total of 5 ports on a vacuum splitter up in the dash about 8 inches above where you show the old line coming thru the firewall.
I was skeptical but it worked! Well, after I connected the red hose to the one coming from the top not into the box. Thank You, Thank You, Thank You!!
Thanks for sharing this video but I have a Ford E350 1988 and the heater is not working we cant find where the power comes from there is no power at the switch and no power at the resistance they say that the fuse is the number nine but the fuse is good and all the other fuses also are good but there still no power for this heater would you be able to give me some infor or a link to a video that we can see thank you in advance for your help.
Not sure if this is the same, but my '03 just sat for 2 weeks while on vacation. Worked fine before, but when I got back, heat/AC just won't blend. Truck started right up, and I changed the blend/AC 15amp fuse, but nothing but defrost only heat, which is blowing very strong and hot from defrost only..(under any condition. Idle, load, etc).. So idk, lack of vacuum pressure doesn't "feel like" the issue & would seem something is likely just sticking bc it sat in cold N.E. weather for a couple weeks, but honestly wouldn't know, and don't wanna just start cutting if don't have to.! Any help or a point in the right direction would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
Thank you for the video! I have a follow up question, when you do this and reroute the line that went to the original vacuum canister and stuff, does that also cut the connection to the blend door actuator? I followed your video and I do have air coming from the front vents, but it's still blowing hard out the defrost and does not switch when I switch it to vent instead of defrost. Will it do me any good to switch out the blend door actuator now?
Nothing else changed for me. Might be an issue with your blend door or another leak somewhere
Thanks for the video. Fixed my E350 yesterday! Is it ok to run without a new check valve and vacuum reservoir?
It is(it won't hurt anything) but with mine i noticed when climbing large hills or mountains it would go to defrost again. Might be a secondary issue with mine or a bad check valve.
Need to do it correctly and replace the vacuum reservoir and check valve, put them above the passenger's foot well, easy fix. Get reservoir and check valve from Amazon, Ford, or NAPA?
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