For those who want to know what each vacuum motor/actuator does. 1. The one in the passenger footwell controls the door between fresh air and interior recirculated air. The default with no vacuum leaves the exterior door open. 2. The one he disconnected the arm for controls the first door from the blower motor. The door it controls is to divert the air to the main vents with a slight bypass to the defrost vents. Its default with no vacuum is to close the main vents and push air to the defrost vents. 3. The vacuum motor with two lines going to it, next to the one he was talking about in the video, controls the difference between defrost, floor, and then mixed vents. It has two lines to allow different amounts of vacuum to be applied. It defaults to defrost vents when it does not allow vacuum. Therefore if there is a vacuum leak in the HVAC control system it defaults to 1. exterior air 2. main vent door closed 3. defrost/floor door closed pushing all flow to the defrost vents. Causing full function to defrost vents with exterior air pushed across the heater core.
The vacuum lines are made of plastic and eventually crack and break. I replaced all of my vacuum lines with rubber lines that I got on Amazon and that fixed the problem. It takes time but is not that difficult, just find the old plastic lines and follow them back to all points of connection and remove them and replace with new rubber tubing. It worked, I now have all vents blowing air.
Mine is a 2005 ,I looked at several videos and for the shape of my van and the fact that my a/c still blows cold. Yours is the best fix . Screw all that vacuum searching, the manual fix is the best.
Nice post. I'm going to try this in the morning. You are right, 90% of the time you want air out the front vents, but the 10% when you need that defroster will save your life. I had to drive without a defroster one night because my blower motor failed. Very dangerous! Fortunately I had some hand sanitizer which contains alcohol. Rubbed it on the inside of the windshield. Prevented fogging and moisture freezing. Made it home safely!
Thank you! 95 E350 started having the same exact problem last night. I’m going back to AZ tomorrow from Colorado with the kids and there’s NO WAY defrost was going to cool us off 🥵. This is exactly what we need until I can replace that part that’s supposed to move the plastic lever 😎🙏
I bought a new vacuum canister and pulled the vacuum line out from the inside of the firewall. The check valve and t fitting came out too it looked like the leak was a dry rotted tube that went to the canister… it crumbled. So I just ran a wire through the firewall toward the engine until I could see it and then pulled the new vacuum line through.
Please note: What I pointed out in this video is more of a “bypass” than a true fix in order to avoid an expensive and time consuming tear down. What I am proposing gets the job done with no cost. The actuator that I point out in the video that I was going to replace actually worked fine upon bench testing so the vacuum problem is more complicated and would require a tear down of the system to find the leak. Hope my solution helps.
Sam thing happened to mine I checked it rn and when I pinched the actuator it blew air to the vent I’m looking to replace the actuator you pointed out but if that isn’t the part then might as well not replace it
4:00 This was bad design by Ford. If, instead of the whole vacuum line and reservoir B.S., they let the user control the flapper by a MANUAL SWITCH, this thing would never break. But nooo, they HAD to make it complicated! Its an air flow flapper, why make it so convoluted?
The ball is bad on top of condenser run a new line from under the hood to the black line under the floor and it will fix it and it will work with the control
Hey very good job and very good explication i have tha seme problems with my van tha air pot's to coming from outside its hot ....pot's coming cool air
I've been running this 'bypass' fix on my van for around 3 years. one thing to note the air intake under the passenger footwell defaults to fresh air intake. so when motor is under load and ac on max ac and the vacuum decreases the fresh air intake door will open. this does become slightly annoying as my area has a lot of diesel trucks so the fumes get sucked into the cab.
Pretty sure the Lever was already off and that's the Problem to begin with.I am an everyday Mechanic and I'm having trouble finding the part with the White Lever.We have a few E250s we work in and alot of them have sane problem with the Lever Breaking.
I seem to have the same problem trying to get that lever off of the actuator, I didn't want to start unscrewing anything unnecessarily but also didn't see anything replying to your answer, do you mind sharing what you ended up doing? I know it only looks like two screws, the one closest to the windshield is on a slight angle so I'm afraid I might drop it
It’s the vacuum canister buried deep in the engine compartment. It’s leaking enough that the vacuum switch won’t switch over. The part is about $65 but the labor to fix is horrendous with about 5 hours to disassemble and put back together. Sort of like a heater core.
@@jeffadams6737good work, so the next fix-hack is adding in the bypass line, where some videos address that one. My local Ford dealer did a bypass for me 12 years ago and now it is leaking somewhere on my e450. So im back to your hack for the time being, till i test the two actuators. Thanks for your vlog here!
@jeffadams6737 Tools, vehicles performed way better and longer until around 2000's . They knew exactly what they were doing when they started making things to not last as long. Cast iron parts went to plastic, internal engine parts even went to plastic. Why make something that lasts years and years? They would never be able to sale as many. It used to b pride in how long your product (s) would last. Now it's just all about the sales, who cares about morals amd pride anymore?
Great video, this just saved my parents almost 1,000 dollars. Ford dealership claims the entire dashboard has to be removed for fix.
Thanks for posting. The fix is the actuator is disconnected from the vent actuator arm 3:35 the actuator itself is most likely fine
For those who want to know what each vacuum motor/actuator does.
1. The one in the passenger footwell controls the door between fresh air and interior recirculated air. The default with no vacuum leaves the exterior door open.
2. The one he disconnected the arm for controls the first door from the blower motor. The door it controls is to divert the air to the main vents with a slight bypass to the defrost vents. Its default with no vacuum is to close the main vents and push air to the defrost vents.
3. The vacuum motor with two lines going to it, next to the one he was talking about in the video, controls the difference between defrost, floor, and then mixed vents. It has two lines to allow different amounts of vacuum to be applied. It defaults to defrost vents when it does not allow vacuum.
Therefore if there is a vacuum leak in the HVAC control system it defaults to
1. exterior air
2. main vent door closed
3. defrost/floor door closed pushing all flow to the defrost vents.
Causing full function to defrost vents with exterior air pushed across the heater core.
This is so incredibly helpful. Thank you.
Makes a lot of sense
The vacuum lines are made of plastic and eventually crack and break. I replaced all of my vacuum lines with rubber lines that I got on Amazon and that fixed the problem. It takes time but is not that difficult, just find the old plastic lines and follow them back to all points of connection and remove them and replace with new rubber tubing. It worked, I now have all vents blowing air.
Hi. I have same issues with my 2008 e250 van. Do you have videos and more informations ? Thx
Mine is a 2005 ,I looked at several videos and for the shape of my van and the fact that my a/c still blows cold. Yours is the best fix . Screw all that vacuum searching, the manual fix is the best.
Nice post. I'm going to try this in the morning.
You are right, 90% of the time you want air out the front vents, but the 10% when you need that defroster will save your life. I had to drive without a defroster one night because my blower motor failed. Very dangerous! Fortunately I had some hand sanitizer which contains alcohol. Rubbed it on the inside of the windshield. Prevented fogging and moisture freezing. Made it home safely!
Thank you! 95 E350 started having the same exact problem last night.
I’m going back to AZ tomorrow from Colorado with the kids and there’s NO WAY defrost was going to cool us off 🥵.
This is exactly what we need until I can replace that part that’s supposed to move the plastic lever 😎🙏
6 weeks. I’ve been driving around for 6 weeks. It’s been over a hundred degrees in Dallas the whole damn time. So easy. So simple. Six weeks.
So glad I could help!!!!
No work? 😢
Mine is an 09 it does not have the plate on the dash??
Where is that switch in mine
I bought a new vacuum canister and pulled the vacuum line out from the inside of the firewall. The check valve and t fitting came out too it looked like the leak was a dry rotted tube that went to the canister… it crumbled. So I just ran a wire through the firewall toward the engine until I could see it and then pulled the new vacuum line through.
That worked for me. Thank you so much we are having a record high heat wave I Houston. I hope you are blessed with good fortune.
You’re awesome. Just fixed my issue with that trick. So cool. Thanks!
You're awesome my guy!
Saved me a lot of money so thank you!
Yep, that’s why I was glad to find this hack. Engineers will have you taking dash out to fix which is aweful!!!
Worked, Thank you 97 E-150 tada
Thank you so much you just solved all my problems.
Thanks so much this saved me time and money
Please note: What I pointed out in this video is more of a “bypass” than a true fix in order to avoid an expensive and time consuming tear down. What I am proposing gets the job done with no cost. The actuator that I point out in the video that I was going to replace actually worked fine upon bench testing so the vacuum problem is more complicated and would require a tear down of the system to find the leak. Hope my solution helps.
So the actuator wasn’t the problem?
Sam thing happened to mine I checked it rn and when I pinched the actuator it blew air to the vent I’m looking to replace the actuator you pointed out but if that isn’t the part then might as well not replace it
No working- help me
Today you are my hero
4:00 This was bad design by Ford. If, instead of the whole vacuum line and reservoir B.S., they let the user control the flapper by a MANUAL SWITCH, this thing would never break. But nooo, they HAD to make it complicated! Its an air flow flapper, why make it so convoluted?
It worked for me 😊 thank you thank you!!
Thank you so much for your video I've had the same problem in a 350 Ford van and it worked like a charm.
Glad it helped
So freaking easy!! 🤣 Thanks for the easy hack man!
Nice video. I am working on it.
The ball is bad on top of condenser run a new line from under the hood to the black line under the floor and it will fix it and it will work with the control
Hey very good job and very good explication i have tha seme problems with my van tha air pot's to coming from outside its hot ....pot's coming cool air
Thanks for the video!
Thanks 👌👌👌
Very much appreciated 🙏 🙏🙏🙏
I've been running this 'bypass' fix on my van for around 3 years. one thing to note the air intake under the passenger footwell defaults to fresh air intake. so when motor is under load and ac on max ac and the vacuum decreases the fresh air intake door will open. this does become slightly annoying as my area has a lot of diesel trucks so the fumes get sucked into the cab.
Could you finger the fresh air intake thing like the way you did the top one??? 🤦🤦🤦
To keep outside and exhaust air out..thanks for the video 🙋🏻🙋🏻🙋🏻
No work 😅 ??
OMG! Thank you!!!
This would fix mine - if I push the arm over it does switch it - but how did you get the metal arm off with the circular plastic in the way?
So easy. Thanks.
2008 e350 same problem try this tomorrow. Thanks
Thank you!!
Awesome. I didnt realize there was an access panel there
Awesome
Gracias por tu video fue de mucha ayuda thank you appreciate
How do you reattach the lever?
It does not go on easily.
I have a 95 van and noticed a vaccine line under hood that's off I wonder if that's causing my vent not to come on but thanks I'll check that out
Know anything about Rear door locks?? Ty
Part 1? What fixed it?
thanks for showing this i found my issue but you didnt show how to take the lever off the white part can you show how you did that
Pretty sure the Lever was already off and that's the Problem to begin with.I am an everyday Mechanic and I'm having trouble finding the part with the White Lever.We have a few E250s we work in and alot of them have sane problem with the Lever Breaking.
On my Ford e 250 2000. I don't have the plastic piece to move. However when I push it in the air comes out.
👍
What is the name of the part
Is there a trick to get the lever off?, I don't want to break anything.
I seem to have the same problem trying to get that lever off of the actuator, I didn't want to start unscrewing anything unnecessarily but also didn't see anything replying to your answer, do you mind sharing what you ended up doing? I know it only looks like two screws, the one closest to the windshield is on a slight angle so I'm afraid I might drop it
Just got my truck out the shop. They was trying to charge me 1,400
no worked- ?? Help me? New check valve, new actuator, new,bypass regulator no dry rotted ,😅 s.c - 2 year bypass - ?????
Did you ever diagnose the problem? And find an easy fix other than what you did here?
It’s the vacuum canister buried deep in the engine compartment. It’s leaking enough that the vacuum switch won’t switch over. The part is about $65 but the labor to fix is horrendous with about 5 hours to disassemble and put back together. Sort of like a heater core.
@@jeffadams6737good work, so the next fix-hack is adding in the bypass line, where some videos address that one. My local Ford dealer did a bypass for me 12 years ago and now it is leaking somewhere on my e450. So im back to your hack for the time being, till i test the two actuators. Thanks for your vlog here!
@@jr.6199 The designers made that system way more difficult to repair than it needs to be. That’s engineered so you have to buy new!
@jeffadams6737 Tools, vehicles performed way better and longer until around 2000's . They knew exactly what they were doing when they started making things to not last as long. Cast iron parts went to plastic, internal engine parts even went to plastic. Why make something that lasts years and years? They would never be able to sale as many. It used to b pride in how long your product (s) would last. Now it's just all about the sales, who cares about morals amd pride anymore?
Tengo ese problema en la ford E 250 ecoline lo kiero ver.en español
Este video lo kiero en español