how to fix e150 e250 e350 e450 e550 Econoline Van ac stuck on defrost
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- čas přidán 21. 10. 2020
- Ford Van AC only coming out of Defrost Repair. This video shows the common issue which is the ford e150 ac not coming out of the vents. I will show you how to fix this without having to buy anything and with the least amount of time and BS of all the other videos.
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how do I fix my ford e-150 ac stuck on defrost
hey siri my ac is stuck on defrost
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amazon my ac is stuck on defrost - Jak na to + styl
Just did this fix in my pastors van! Works like a charm. Ford designed it this way so you would have to spend thousands on a repair. Naw I’ll go this route. Thanks again for an awesome video!
NICE
watched 5 other videos and by far this was the best on explaining how to fix my AC . Worked like a charm and AC blowing out of the vents Thanks Buddy
I appreciate you hope you subscribed
the easiest explanation of them all, thank you
Your video has helped me to prepare for this Georgia upcoming HEAT🔥 bro. I followed your instructions, opened the hood and looked for the red vacuum hose line and found that the black vacuum hose line connected to it was broken. I reconnected the black vacuum hose line and cold air❄️ blowing through the vents again‼️ I didn't have to take the dog house out. Thanks bro, I couldn't have fixed it without your straight to the point no nonsense clear directions‼️💯🎯
Wow this actually worked... I have a E350 shuttle bus and it would go out when accelerating. Did this and it no longer does that. Didn't have to buy anything. Ac blowing way harder that before as well. I was afraid the defrost wouldn't work but it still does. Genius man. Glad I don't have to order extra parts
It Worked! 2002 Ford Econoline E150 5.4L 227k miles - My AC had not been blowing through the vents for about 6 years! smh lol Now blowing strong again & frosty. No issues upon acceleration or inclines, etc. Easy to do, just as instructed in this video. A bonus not mentioned in the video - now even the vent with the AC off also blows cooler thus allowing you to use the AC less often if you want.
Lastly, the doghouse is easy to remove alone, second person not necessary. Done it many times. Big Thanks!!
Thanks i have 01 E350 I use as a mobile detailing rig! This summer is getting rough i did this and i never realized how cold my ac could actually get before it was just trying to cool down the front window lol.
Thank you!
A Year later and your vid is still helping us out. Thanks for that.
Hi, Sir
You cut the connection red and black under hood
And you connected them in driver's room!
Now is working???
@@nightvan4427 yes , I followed the directions in that video. I bypassed that little cylinder outside the firewall as shown and works fine.
Fixed my vans ac in 10 minutes. Ive been dealimg with my ac stuck on defrost for 2 yrs now. Big thank you and God bless!
Goodness thank you man this worked like a charm… know I have air coming out and in this heat much need god bless you
It works man thanks for making a video
Dude I appreciate it Rick you're the man this video was perfect a/c blows ice cold
thanks damien!!!
I have an 03, 150 conversion van lol. I replaced the blend door accuator and that was not the issue and could also not find a vaccum leak. Ill try this lol.
Worked great thanks
When you do that would your defroster still work as normal and what was that line you pulled out from under the dash on the passenger side connected to
Works for me!! Thanks!!
Great!
Thx man helped me aswell with my 2007 e150
Glad to hear it
I did this to my 98 E 250 work van because I'm having the same issue...After following the video to a T it is still doing the same thing...What should I try next?...Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated...Its going to be getting hot soon & would love to have some air flow through my dash vents...Thanks
Good job
I just got a 1996 Ford E-150 Eclipse Conversion with defroster Only. I have looked at the video and I am puzzled. It seems like the black line that you pulled is the same black line that connects to the Red line in the engine compartment. If that is the case, why will it work when you pass the red line through the bolt on the dog house and not when you simply connect them together in the engine compartment? Or am I missing something? Please help... thanks!!! And New Year!!! 🙂
Do not take out the bolt its needed. instead just run a new line the same way it original ran. If you want to be quick drill new hole then fill with JB welder
Awesome man thanks
thanks for the comment man please sub
I have no air blowing from the ceiling vents in the cabin area! I wish you can do a video on how to access the roof vent ducts. My problem is not the motor, for the cold air is blowing but blowing only on the right / passenger side of the cabin area ... but not of the left driver side in the passenger are! CAn you give any input please!
Your problem is in the back rear of the van. You need to take the cover off the fan and see if there's anything plugged inside of it
@@CHASINGPROFITS thank youuuuuu!!!
Hi, Sir
You cut the connection red and black under hood
And you connected them in driver's room!
Now is working???
Just tried this and unfortunately it didn’t work so must be a different issue why it’s stuck on defrost
Question: Does this fix result in continued loss of vacuum affecting engine performance, possible smog test failure, and changing to defrost mode when climbing a grade?
let me look into this and get back gary! If you have found out please come back and leave a comment
My performance is affected when the ac is on. Almost like a vacuum leak
Instead of the direct line plug in actually use the check valve and box to make the connection there other video out their and that should regulate the vacuum properly
Otherwise driving uphill or towing load will result in the problem again.
It worked for a day. Then it reverted back to defrost. Does that mean my tube is broken and I have to replace it?
Rock on
This happened to my ac in my 99
I did the bypass exactly like the video. But instead of solving the issue, it went from 0% airflow going to the vents to 5%. The major airflow still goes to defrost. Any suggestion?
You have an additional vacuum leak, remove the dash control and on the back make sure all vacuum lines are connected and not leaking. Secondly remove the console covering the engine and see if you hear a vacuum line leaking. You can always bypass other lines by running new ones from the control to the places they go to in the engine. For example as you would remove and replace wires on spark plugs 1 By 1. Please subscribe for this info bud
@@CHASINGPROFITS thanks for replying 🙏 I have a 2019 E450, and the vacuum controller is not easy to find like the older ones 🧐 Any suggestion ?
I HAVE THAT SAME VAN PAID $1200 BUT HAS A LOT OF PROBLEMS THIS IS 1 OF THEM BUT WHAT HAPPENED YOU JUST GONNA LEAVE THE RED WIRE IN THE HOLE AND NOT PUT THE BOLT BACK IN AND HOOK IT BACK UP PROPERTY ? WHAT HAPPENED AFTERWARDS ?
Everything works and sold it brother hopefully ill have update on the next one
I can follow these steps... But curious what was unhooked and what did you plug into? Why does this work 😅
Another vacuum line, we are diverting to another vacuum line
@@CHASINGPROFITS i just hooked it up like you showed and it worked, but the bolt you removed for access doesnt have an opening into my engine compartment. Theres some head shield or something in the way. Should i just drill through that?
Ah, sorted it out. Great tutorial thanks so much.
Interesting. Wish I saw this video ifrat
But the other Method the one where you guy the 3 way thing and that black box is good too. Did it on 4 econolines. Has worked very well. Wish I understood how it worked to see what the difference is vs this one.
What caused it to go out in the first place though🤔
@@lsrod9689 vacuum line disintegrated
If you bypass the vacuum reservoir like this, the dash vents will shut down every time you drive uphill.
Yep
Yup
Ok so don't do it and stay with the heat lol you guys really Crack me up
@@CHASINGPROFITS not criticizing the repair per se. This video and others were very helpful. As you said it is the quickest repair without having to buy anything. But it seems like an incomplete repair. Without putting a new vacuum reservoir ($40 or so) inline somewhere you will get that AC drop at times. I mounted it under the passenger side dash.
Incorrect
Technically, the sentence you wrote is true, yes. But only because "like this" didn't include a vacuum check valve. The reservoir doesn't prevent the dash vents from shutting down under acceleration; the reservoir allows for climate control adjustments to occur under heavy acceleration. It is the leaky reservoir that prevents the check valve from holding the vacuum in the climate control system when the engine stops providing vacuum under hard acceleration. All the reservoir is doing is storing enough vacuum to allow you to change climate control settings while under heavy acceleration. If there are no leaks in the vacuum system, and the check valve is functioning, then the climate control system will maintain the setting it is at. But if you change the settings while under heavy acceleration, the change will not occur until acceleration is reduced, which closes the throttle and causes the intake manifold vacuum to return.
The system is designed to default to defrost position using springs, so if the system fails it is likely to default to the most important setting : defrost. Vacuum pulls the climate control system out of defrost, and loss of vacuum will cause the system to fall back into defrost.
If you have rear climate control, the loss of vacuum in the climate control system will cause the rear system to revert to blowing heat on the floor.
do the defost work.
Great video but WHY does this work brother?
Vacuum line when it is not connected it will not close and open the ac door
Looks like a shitty bypass to me. Whats actualls wrong with the fan or vacuum system ?
umm the vacuum line is 99% what goes wrong with these it deteriorates
Did you figure out if this creates a vacuum leak that affects performance?
His problem was a leaking vacuum line that goes the red engine vacuum line connector on the firewall to the section of vacuum line that goes down behind the battery and in to the passenger compartment. So he took the engine source line and moved it into the passenger compartment and then took the line from the vacuum actuators that move the louvers that direct the air to the vents or defrost and connected them. It leaves out the leaking part of the line. Others mechanics will replace the check valve and reservoir because sometimes the leak is in that part of the system. Those parts are around $50. His was was free. Ford will charge you $1200. It is up to you.
Fix your audio
thanks for the comment man please sub
Awesome, worked perfectly
Great to hear!