Love your videos! I'm a design engineer (restaurants and supermarkets) and it's always cool to see the tech side of things. I often get calls to help with first level troubleshooting before the tech calls, so I enjoy seeing the typical checks and balances and maintenance misses that I don't have control of once the design has become a physical building. Keep up the good work!
Dangggg Bro.! You did exactly what i would have done. Exactly.!! i really appreciate your videos. Especially when i see a pro like you doing the same set of diagnosing procedures i would have done. Have a Merry Christmas everybody.!!!
As a formal York start up teck. I did that for years. That was the 1st thing we put when we do start up is all the hardware. Also we put final pressures on the inner panel with a start up date. They are good units. Just like everything else you need to maintain it. Good job brother
Great job. Pro tip from hard lessons learned when messing with pulleys, always check amp draw of motor after. Most motors will work temporarily and then start shutting off due to high amps from belt riding on outside of pulley. Exhaust fans are most critical and I’ve had callback because of not checking amp draws.
Nah you did a good job Just make sure you set the amps when you replace those sheaves if the install book is still there checkout the air performance data page I did not see any air balance stickers on the units If it was balanced then it’s going to be off now because someone already moved that sheave but doubt it was balanced looked like OEM sheaves to me As for the the plugged orifice your probably ok being the units are so new. Older unit can have rust flaking off that induced draft assembly causing the clog You did the call your way and got the customer taken care Good job I’m not going to lie though I sure enjoyed watching you on the racks lol Thanks Rookie
Good vid rook ! I Would have done most everything the same. Those steel inducer nipples all ways get rusty & get blocked up / rust blockage. First place I always go when pressure switch does not close. I would of checked the evap motor amps. While adjusting shivs. You can get into trouble adjusting shivs and over amping the motor. Careful there. But , still a good vid. Oh , also I allways check 24 volt transformer taps. They are allways tapped wrong on new equiptment I find out here.
Those adjustables pulleys are only used for start-ups (i mean c.f.m. Calibration)once the good cfm is found, the solid pulley should be put on...diameter, shaft and width of the groove.Only then the belt will sit and last longer.
Most of the times when a service call comes in, i always check if the maintenance has been done, 75% of the time its usually a belt and or filters the issue. first things i do are, check belts and filters and then check codes.
Clock the gas meter for the input. Also set the high fire to 3.25 and check your combustion. FYI that blower wheel is dirty it on only takes 1/8 of an inch of build up to affect air flow across the heat exchanger.
You did it all fine bro, you did all the necessary checks and had the same outcome. You did in AC, what a good HVAC guy would have done on a walk in cooler. Got the answer, maybe just not a direct way. Only other thing I've done is check supply fan motor current with a pulley adjustment like that. And if the client approved, checked air volume and cross referenced manufacturers data. If it was low, than that would have explained the high temp split. Air isn't something that's commissioned properly here in Australia coz every customer wants more for less. Costs have to be cut somewhere. Well done mate, and merry Christmas!
I’ve worked in New England many many years, on a no heat call, keep it simple.... people don’t do maintenance commercial or otherwise as much as they should. It’s the first thing cut on my he budget. So first thing should always be filters and belts. Then NRG....elec, oil, gas, propane... b4 you go on the roof, speak to the manager and get an idea from their perspective and what they have done. Check the stat, is it on, switch the fan to on, if it starts, you have both power and a good transformer. Can you see or feel airflow?... now go on he roof.
bro you are hilarious. love the vids, you are entertaining, you know what you are talking about and i'm learning new stuff since i'am an apprentice. keep it up!
Spare belts should always be left in every unit. Not because of a damaged pulley, its so anyone can change that belt on the fly that comes along next. All vent hoods should be the same. You charge for two belts and leave one if you need to.
I was told the adjustable pulley is there to get correct air flow. And if belt has been over tightened then that pulley wears faster than the fan pulley. Check fan motor amps to name plate.
A lot of the newer valves are 1.2-1.3" wc low fire and 3.2" wc high fire if temperature rise is to high and air flow is good can help with high limit trips.
Good call on checking temp rise. Adjust pulley Amp motor . Check return air . Make sure Static pressure ok. Had a unit like that call back. Didn't check static returns were closed down. Rookie your specialty is Super markets.We all have strong points and not so strong. How does it go? Boyongg!🤣Feliz Navida!
You crack me up!! I like your style! Great job dude! AND your SPIDERMAN 'SPIDEY SENSES', about a possible bad startup, were A.O.K.!! No handles = ABSOLUTE FAIR ASSUMPTION about a possible bad startup/install. SPIDEY SENSES!!! When the hair on the back of your neck, begins to standup, not always, but usually, it means, something ain't right!! LISTEN TO EM! SPIDEYS!!!
the wing-wang's may have half the vent fins/dampers inside partial closed inside the building or they may have vibrated closed depending on the type. I think most chipotle have exposed ducts and them multi-fin registers, which can easily get banged mostly shut cleaning
At 9:48 approximately you checked the pressure switch to see if it was closing also could you have checked the amp draw on your inducer motor also just a suggestion
New guys, if u abjust a sheave make sure u check amps on the motor. Tighten the sheave equals higher amps, open the sheave equals low amps. Check the motor data plate
Agreed. You should never adjust the sheave without checking the motor amp draw. Could come back and bite you in the butt if you don’t. Great videos keep up, the good work.
Might be just the old belt or the camera angle but they seemed off center slightly. I had a few jobs were the belts were only slightly miss aligned that caused them to wear out. Love the videos.
maybe check if there is enough return air for system(check external static pressure against data plate)looks like max static is 1.5 inwc put a manometer were your temp probes were and make sure you not above 1.5 inwc external static if you are above 1.5 inwc (between return and supply air).it could be a duct sizing issue, maybe check economizer functionality as well. just some thoughts. That’s if everything was checked out(like you did )and it was still popping the high limit.
Only thing I would have done differently is made sure that belt was square in the pulleys on the first unit you adjusted looked like it was riding hard on the left side. That will take out bearings and damage your shive fast to.
Good vid, those pulleys were shot. Checking supply air temperature right there can be deceiving. Not 100% sure on those units but your probably reading right next to the heat exchanger. I wonder what supply temp would have been at registers. And yes it would have been a pain in the ass to check. Good to have you back rookie!
think of where the limit switches are and their trip temps. if there's lack of flow the air will cool down too much in duct and supply registers could be low enough to give false sense of overhead. manufacture probably states to check in the test holes or specifies where exactly to test :)
@@gas_man1565 Simply can not change my ways!!! Never even heard of any tech running into issues from it. Although i do understand the theory behind not doing it.
Yorks are sketchy as hell to work on, crappy design, absolute garbage units to touch. Filter locations are weird, and repairing them sucks. You did great though bro, for someone who mainly does RACK and refrigeration, you do better than half these techs so far lol. Checking far, it's good. I don't know everything and I'm always willing to learn and teach what I know. Other than the amps, always check, you did a great job. Typically people will leave either a new or used belt as an emergency, just incase one pops, you have a spare to hold them over. One of my first things to check is filters and belts when i have limit switches opening lol. Keep it awesome dude!
Never had certain tools like a manometer--Wasalways rushed in my service ,got shit going and moved on to next call........ nobody gave a shite except me--I still dream/nightmare of certain stores where I could have remedied the problem if I was given 2-3 days alone......Still wish I could go back and r eapair engineering problem--At @ the time I left the Co. -You might as well talk to a brick wall rather than a supervisor...........Peace-
In some cases we leave an extra belt because we have a maintenance contract so if we have a bad belt when supply houses are closed it's the least we can do instead of wasting time chasing one did I explain that with some sense
You’re not supposed to tighten the pulleys. You’re gonna over amp the motors. The tighter the pulley the more amps. The looser the pulley draws less amps on the motor. FYI.
@@xraybravo7180 airflow should be correct after just tightening belt, without moving pulley. First bad pulley I’d had turned in maybe half turn and double check amps. Been burned couple times by motors shutting off due to not checking amps after trying to get them by until new pulleys came in.
@@rookierefrigeration4357 Typically a new belt will hold them over until they replace the pulleys. What I do, replace the belt, quote a motor, drive pulley, and a new belt. What you did was fine, just check the amps to be sure you're not going over, and mark the old positioning when you install the new pulleys, so you don't have to play the test and balance game. Sometimes to hold over the customer, you gotta cut things close, and if they fail to act in time, it's on them, especially if given warning.
We all do things to get the customers running. Main thing is getting that current measured and knowing exactly where that pulley was set originally so you get the new one correct. Restaurant air balance is never perfect just because of the environment. Always remember though temporary becomes permanent Great video 👍
They have a metal rail the sit in and can pull it out, automatically opening those hinges covers. Dislike that style York unit, prefer my carrier simplicity.
Love your videos! I'm a design engineer (restaurants and supermarkets) and it's always cool to see the tech side of things. I often get calls to help with first level troubleshooting before the tech calls, so I enjoy seeing the typical checks and balances and maintenance misses that I don't have control of once the design has become a physical building. Keep up the good work!
That's very warm having it at 76. Good Job!!!
Dangggg Bro.! You did exactly what i would have done. Exactly.!! i really appreciate your videos. Especially when i see a pro like you doing the same set of diagnosing procedures i would have done. Have a Merry Christmas everybody.!!!
You too bro. Thanks
Always check amo draw on the motor when adjusting belts or pulleys. Great work.
As a formal York start up teck. I did that for years. That was the 1st thing we put when we do start up is all the hardware. Also we put final pressures on the inner panel with a start up date. They are good units. Just like everything else you need to maintain it. Good job brother
Great job. Pro tip from hard lessons learned when messing with pulleys, always check amp draw of motor after. Most motors will work temporarily and then start shutting off due to high amps from belt riding on outside of pulley. Exhaust fans are most critical and I’ve had callback because of not checking amp draws.
Yup. Agreed. I’ll check amps when I go back.
Nah you did a good job
Just make sure you set the amps when you replace those sheaves if the install book is still there checkout the air performance data page
I did not see any air balance stickers on the units
If it was balanced then it’s going to be off now because someone already moved that sheave but doubt it was balanced looked like OEM sheaves to me
As for the the plugged orifice your probably ok being the units are so new. Older unit can have rust flaking off that induced draft assembly causing the clog
You did the call your way and got the customer taken care
Good job I’m not going to lie though I sure enjoyed watching you on the racks lol
Thanks Rookie
Thanks bro. Good eye
Good vid rook ! I Would have done most everything the same. Those steel inducer nipples all ways get rusty & get blocked up / rust blockage. First place I always go when pressure switch does not close.
I would of checked the evap motor amps. While adjusting shivs. You can get into trouble adjusting shivs and over amping the motor. Careful there.
But , still a good vid.
Oh , also I allways check 24 volt transformer taps. They are allways tapped wrong on new equiptment I find out here.
Learning a lot! Us new techs need all the help we can get!
Good to know bro.
Who you kidding us old techs need all the help WE can get lol
Those adjustables pulleys are only used for start-ups (i mean c.f.m. Calibration)once the good cfm is found, the solid pulley should be put on...diameter, shaft and width of the groove.Only then the belt will sit and last longer.
Agreed
And how many times have we seen that swap actually done.
you did good, sir !
Wouldn't be nice if them mf also tag the unit cfm and pulley adjustment on there for future.
nobody does that
Most of the times when a service call comes in, i always check if the maintenance has been done, 75% of the time its usually a belt and or filters the issue. first things i do are, check belts and filters and then check codes.
Clock the gas meter for the input. Also set the high fire to 3.25 and check your combustion. FYI that blower wheel is dirty it on only takes 1/8 of an inch of build up to affect air flow across the heat exchanger.
You did it all fine bro, you did all the necessary checks and had the same outcome. You did in AC, what a good HVAC guy would have done on a walk in cooler. Got the answer, maybe just not a direct way. Only other thing I've done is check supply fan motor current with a pulley adjustment like that. And if the client approved, checked air volume and cross referenced manufacturers data. If it was low, than that would have explained the high temp split. Air isn't something that's commissioned properly here in Australia coz every customer wants more for less. Costs have to be cut somewhere. Well done mate, and merry Christmas!
Thanks bro. And thank you for watching from Australia. I was there twice in 2003 and 2004. Darwin and Townsville
Great to see videos from. You again
I’ve worked in New England many many years, on a no heat call, keep it simple.... people don’t do maintenance commercial or otherwise as much as they should. It’s the first thing cut on my he budget. So first thing should always be filters and belts. Then NRG....elec, oil, gas, propane... b4 you go on the roof, speak to the manager and get an idea from their perspective and what they have done. Check the stat, is it on, switch the fan to on, if it starts, you have both power and a good transformer. Can you see or feel airflow?... now go on he roof.
bro you are hilarious. love the vids, you are entertaining, you know what you are talking about and i'm learning new stuff since i'am an apprentice. keep it up!
Good stuff..thanks for sharing ..keep the videos coming..god bless
Spare belts should always be left in every unit. Not because of a damaged pulley, its so anyone can change that belt on the fly that comes along next. All vent hoods should be the same. You charge for two belts and leave one if you need to.
Most of our customers DO NOT allow that. Almost all of them don’t.
Good call.
Gas pressure and temp rise for sure.
I use the field peice SDMN6 for gas pressure, static and vacuum switch testing.
I was told the adjustable pulley is there to get correct air flow. And if belt has been over tightened then that pulley wears faster than the fan pulley. Check fan motor amps to name plate.
Gotta walk that line called NTE! I totally get it homie! Glad to see ya back
Do we need the NTE people? Is that all they do is ask if I went over the NTE? I never know what the NTE is. How can I get a job being a NTE person? :)
A lot of the newer valves are 1.2-1.3" wc low fire and 3.2" wc high fire if temperature rise is to high and air flow is good can help with high limit trips.
Good call on checking temp rise. Adjust pulley Amp motor . Check return air . Make sure Static pressure ok. Had a unit like that call back. Didn't check static returns were closed down. Rookie your specialty is Super markets.We all have strong points and not so strong. How does it go? Boyongg!🤣Feliz Navida!
Lmao. Thanks bro. Lmao 😂😂
You crack me up!! I like your style! Great job dude! AND your SPIDERMAN 'SPIDEY SENSES', about a possible bad startup, were A.O.K.!! No handles = ABSOLUTE FAIR ASSUMPTION about a possible bad startup/install. SPIDEY SENSES!!! When the hair on the back of your neck, begins to standup, not always, but usually, it means, something ain't right!! LISTEN TO EM! SPIDEYS!!!
Thank you. I appreciate it
First thing you check is the filters when it starts tripping on high limit.
I always adjust my gas pressure per temperature rise if airflow adjustments are accurate. Typically 3.0-4.0 is my limit for high stage.
the wing-wang's may have half the vent fins/dampers inside partial closed inside the building or they may have vibrated closed depending on the type. I think most chipotle have exposed ducts and them multi-fin registers, which can easily get banged mostly shut cleaning
At 9:48 approximately you checked the pressure switch to see if it was closing also could you have checked the amp draw on your inducer motor also just a suggestion
Another awesome video !
New guys, if u abjust a sheave make sure u check amps on the motor. Tighten the sheave equals higher amps, open the sheave equals low amps. Check the motor data plate
Agreed. You should never adjust the sheave without checking the motor amp draw. Could come back and bite you in the butt if you don’t. Great videos keep up, the good work.
I just had to do this same stuff to the same York rtu here in Indiana. We always leave spare belts for pms.
Might be just the old belt or the camera angle but they seemed off center slightly. I had a few jobs were the belts were only slightly miss aligned that caused them to wear out. Love the videos.
Great job with a full check out.
Merry Christmas 🎅
Nice video, now the important part when can we expect yalls next podcast man? I miss you guys.
Semper Fi Brother!
Great video! Gonna have to change that name to rookie hvac guy, lol. I'm sure you did but better check your blower amps when adjusting the pulley.
The man’s a wizard
Good shit bro... l9ve the video. And your process of troubleshooting.
The belt and the pulley is one of the first things that you should’ve checked is in the start up sequence of operation.
Yes. That’s why I put that note in there.
Great video bro. Keep up the good work 👌
Thanks
It looks like they have the wrong size filters in those RTU’s.
I always buy two belt's and leave a spare one period I suggest you start doing the same. Belt's are a part that can go bad just like anything else.
Good video 👍
IVR, service channel on national accounts. Everything quoted and approved exceeding the NTE. It is a pain sometimes.
Oh yeah
Got to love a nice multi level NTE increase process lol
maybe check if there is enough return air for system(check external static pressure against data plate)looks like max static is 1.5 inwc put a manometer were your temp probes were and make sure you not above 1.5 inwc external static if you are above 1.5 inwc (between return and supply air).it could be a duct sizing issue, maybe check economizer functionality as well. just some thoughts. That’s if everything was checked out(like you did )and it was still popping the high limit.
I used to work on a lot of their refrigeration equipment and HVAC
Only thing I would have done differently is made sure that belt was square in the pulleys on the first unit you adjusted looked like it was riding hard on the left side. That will take out bearings and damage your shive fast to.
Looked like it was. But it was straight. I saw that on the video too.
Good vid, those pulleys were shot. Checking supply air temperature right there can be deceiving. Not 100% sure on those units but your probably reading right next to the heat exchanger. I wonder what supply temp would have been at registers. And yes it would have been a pain in the ass to check. Good to have you back rookie!
Agreed 100%. Thanks
think of where the limit switches are and their trip temps. if there's lack of flow the air will cool down too much in duct and supply registers could be low enough to give false sense of overhead. manufacture probably states to check in the test holes or specifies where exactly to test :)
Yea, I guess your right. Air flow issues can be a pain, especially if ductwork is jacked.
Great vid 👌
Nice work. You can only do so much with an NTE.
I would have checked gas pressure too.
😎👍
Probably will when I go back
I use nothing but bc and ax belts. They last longer and save 10 to 20 %
Engery
At least amp the motor so you dont burn it up or have it off on over current.
That’s true. I didn’t do that. Good call
Yes, you are correct, adjusting the pulley open or closed effects current in the motor.
awesome hat bro- you guys selling merch? I could probably google it and figure it out, lol
Yeah. Talk to Ulises about Merch.
8:40-8:46 - looks like the pulleys are not lined up. Possibly explains why left half of pulley shows more wear.
It’s a video issue. They are actually lined up well.
massive temp split, slipping belt lack of airflow (filters BAH who needs to change them!) followed by gas pressure too high lol
God bless you bro
Great vid!!! But not seeing you clean the flame sensor is driving my ocd nuts but i understand NTE's they drive my ocd nuts too. .:( ... .
Lol. I thought about that. Lol
you inspect it, first then you clean it, use steel wool and please dont use sand paper!
@@gas_man1565 Simply can not change my ways!!! Never even heard of any tech running into issues from it. Although i do understand the theory behind not doing it.
good job buddy
Thanks bro
Good job broski.....come work for a national commercial co.....
You be you👍
Thanks
That job should be done in 3 minutes.
Cool bro. Good for you
Wait til u get a York Johnson Controls handled with a vfd.
Yorks are sketchy as hell to work on, crappy design, absolute garbage units to touch. Filter locations are weird, and repairing them sucks. You did great though bro, for someone who mainly does RACK and refrigeration, you do better than half these techs so far lol. Checking far, it's good. I don't know everything and I'm always willing to learn and teach what I know. Other than the amps, always check, you did a great job. Typically people will leave either a new or used belt as an emergency, just incase one pops, you have a spare to hold them over. One of my first things to check is filters and belts when i have limit switches opening lol. Keep it awesome dude!
Thanks alot bro. And yup. York’s are kinda low quality😂
Never had certain tools like a manometer--Wasalways rushed in my service ,got shit going and moved on to next call........ nobody gave a shite except me--I still dream/nightmare of certain stores where I could have remedied the problem if I was given 2-3 days alone......Still wish I could go back and r eapair engineering problem--At @ the time I left the Co. -You might as well talk to a brick wall rather than a supervisor...........Peace-
In some cases we leave an extra belt because we have a maintenance contract so if we have a bad belt when supply houses are closed it's the least we can do instead of wasting time chasing one did I explain that with some sense
Hope you got a free burrito out of it
Good video though.
Lol I just quit a company that Services chipotle
You’re not supposed to tighten the pulleys. You’re gonna over amp the motors. The tighter the pulley the more amps. The looser the pulley draws less amps on the motor. FYI.
Yes. I agree. So should I not adjust it and leave the unit down?
But you need to adjusted the airflow though. That's why they are adjustable
@@xraybravo7180 airflow should be correct after just tightening belt, without moving pulley. First bad pulley I’d had turned in maybe half turn and double check amps. Been burned couple times by motors shutting off due to not checking amps after trying to get them by until new pulleys came in.
@@rookierefrigeration4357 Typically a new belt will hold them over until they replace the pulleys. What I do, replace the belt, quote a motor, drive pulley, and a new belt. What you did was fine, just check the amps to be sure you're not going over, and mark the old positioning when you install the new pulleys, so you don't have to play the test and balance game. Sometimes to hold over the customer, you gotta cut things close, and if they fail to act in time, it's on them, especially if given warning.
We all do things to get the customers running. Main thing is getting that current measured and knowing exactly where that pulley was set originally so you get the new one correct. Restaurant air balance is never perfect just because of the environment. Always remember though temporary becomes permanent Great video 👍
Lack of maintence call or job security call. I don’t like how the filters flop around inside the filter rack.
I saw that too.
@@rookierefrigeration4357 Supposed to be 4" thick filters, i think.
They have a metal rail the sit in and can pull it out, automatically opening those hinges covers. Dislike that style York unit, prefer my carrier simplicity.
@@BYENZER York is trash, end of story, they require 2 inch filters, they just make the access too big, it's not a good design.
it will pull them flat against rack face as soon as it fires up the blower
#306 thumbs up
That unit was trippin
Is that normal for the adjustable side of the pulley to be on the motor side? How's those uei pocket thermo's?
Yes. That’s generally how it is.
Do you need an assistant intern with news at work?
I wish
Boyaayayang😆
Arn,t those return vents?
Whats up with the podcast no new episode since the sporlan?
🤷♂️
Just stay away from those nasty chipotle burritos and youre good
hey this isn't refrigeration! =P
😂😂😂
You still with coolsys/ source or no?
Yup
Ok change your name to Rookie HVAC