LOWERING an RX-7 causes so many PROBLEMS. Here’s how we fix them.
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- čas přidán 9. 09. 2024
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The main two things with the welds would be that sinking in (concave) welds is not really a sign of penetration, it just means you are running too hot/ not feeding it as much filler as it likes. The Japanese aluminum casts are notoriously dirty(at least on motorcycles, which is most of that I've done) And have a ton of air pockets which is why it seems like you're adding a lot of filler but not getting proper convex beads, also with the bevels you want to try and get both bevels the same, otherwise you'll have a tendency not to get the penetration on the part with the lesser bevel (unless you purposely focus on it). The last thing is to get some acetone for cleaning the aluminum, as the die grinder gets rid of the metal but still leaves oils on the surface, and with the cast, you need all the cleaning you can handle.
Rob this guy welds, listen to him. i scrolled down hoping to find someone else who welds so i didn't have to type. as you can i see im lazy, but this guy is right.
This man needs more likes so he can see this.
pretty sure he knows all this stuff from working with Isaiah.....
@@JimmyInKona ya know, when he said it. my mind went blank and forgot about it... then i was watching another video and boom, it hit me. he just wanted us to comment, he got us with the ol bait and switch and our monkey brains said "i can do that for ya" and here we are
Rob should at least get his best welder on this job. DIY knuckles are not the thing to be experimenting on. Rob is a novice welder at best. Why isn't the other guy doing this?
Major cojones Rob for modifying knuckles at each corner. Highly recommend x-ray or magnaflux of welds for safety.
^^This.
Treat it like climbing equipment, get it X-ray test, Before you trust your life to it!
It shouldn't be too difficult to find someone who can do it, find a code welder with the right equipment and for a few bucks I'm sure they'd help out.
Edit, to correct auto-correct-wrong.
As someone who did mag inspection, you can have the prettiest welds in the world, but that doesn't matter when there's cracks and other defects that show up on the bench.
It's aluminum, welding it make it loose all its strength , if cast was like "T4" welding it bring it back to T0 , you need to heat treat them
I really hope he sees this comment
hoping he scans them and machines new ones
Not gonna lie, I'm REALLY impressed if these guys manage to put the car together in time. They're cutting it CLOSE.
Pretty sure he’s ahead or on schedule than when the video gets posted…
@@ivegonemad Funnily enough that's not really the case here ._.
The things in this video were shown live on Patreon just a few days ago.
@@NorwayVFXhas he alloted time for testing and setup? There's hell of a lot of stuff that needs to be sorted after the car build is finished. He's changed so much that it's not going to behave like the original car at all.
@@RedBatRacingthat's exactly what I keep thinking... When is he going to be able to track this thing to A) shakedown and B) learn the car?
I just do not see how he's going to be safe for the Peak
what impress me is that Ive never seen nothing really finished in this channel not a sigle race or a car started a to z has been shown in all this years🤣
NO GLOVES ON SPINNING TOOLS!!!
You NEED to grow a great mustache before Pikes Peak. Look like a pilot while flying low!
I'm a journeyman welder 18 years experience. Just wanted to say your welding has gotten much better. Isaiah no doubt has taught you a lot, he is a great fabricator. My dream was to weld custom cars like you guys do, but I got sucked into the oil and gas sector lol
It’s never late to chase your dreams!
Been there brother, but there's no money in motorsports fab. Just get a nice shop and build amazing stuff in your time away from the rigs. Dealing with the customers is a nightmare! For some reason everyone building a car/bike wants to tell you a sob story on why they need you to do your job for so little money that you're on instant ramen again this month. The people asking me to build some lame hand railing just pay the damn invoice!
@@bennyb.1742so, how much would a stickman made out of welding rod be... out of curiosity
I've done motorsports fab for years now. The money is extremely inconsistent and the headaches are endless. You always gotta deal with assholes that push even the beefiest parts way past their limit due to ignorance or stupidity and then they try to blame it on you. The loyal customers are loyal, but the assholes in motorsports, usually the rich ones are the ones that ruin it.
Making actual money in O&G, lol.
I really don’t want to see you fly off the side of pikes peak!, these knuckle modifications are extremely important! Please get them x ray’d,and I hope you will be taking the car to a racetrack for testing before pikes peak. Stay safe.
Who else is proud of Rob? He went from trusting his life in others and figuring it out small bit by small bit, to trusting his life in his own work and making leaps and bounds in advancement in his work. Bravo entirely!
Please Rob don't lose digits due to gloves. I am currently working on becoming an aircraft mechanic. This was the first thing they taught is to not wear things that can get cuaght and suck digits in. Your work is amazing so keep it up!
Rob PLEASE stop using gloves on the drill press. My dad explained it to me once he saw a guys thumb taken off, said it looked like a tendon hanging out of a crab leg when you crack it. Not a pretty picture.
at my job the JSEA's require gloves for the drill press :o
@@WildEngineering never wear gloves or anything loose near your hands when working with any spinning tool. Easy way to lose digits.
I was rolling plate years ago and about lost my hand. Cleaned the plate roller off months later and there was a sticker stating to never wear gloves. Very close call. My welding glove came out looking like mash potatoes
@WildEngineering my grandpa had his finger almost cut off from a glove getting wrapped up in a chuck. Tell your people they're going to get people hurt by forcing them to wear gloves near a chuck/drill. No lose clothing around spinning machinery and no gloves near chucks.
Yum 😋
I'm extremely interested in the rear wheel stuff for my RX7, actually for all 3 of them. Yeah, I have 3 RX7's and want the Rob Dahm sauce. Gimme your sauce, Rob.
Imagine how hard it is to have 3 RX7s and not have a single video of any of them on this video sharing platform we are on.
8:24 BMW mechanic here. Whenever I work on suspension I use a pole jack to place the hub at ride height before tightening the bushings. Forgetting this step will cause the new bushing to tear when you hit the first or second bump. Ideally you final tighten the bolts when its on a 4 post lift while doing the alignment but a pole jack works just fine.
Did that but on a 2-post lift, I just lifted each individual corner ~1" off the rubber puck and worked my way around the car tightening suspension bits
Worked fine
I was looking for a comment like this.. one reason why I don't like having a garage work on my car because in my experience you can't rely on them doing this kind of thing properly
I am terrified for those cast aluminum welds. I wish you all the luck you can carry.
Based on all of your racing experience?
@@eriklarson9137 Yes. The worst was a chase truck for the Dakar rally. When the welds failed, the end result was someone losing their life.
He says in the video that he's just seeing if it works and is planning to make billet versions....
@@Kevlar187 I thought that when he said billet pieces, he was referring to the front only. I hope you are right, and I just misinterpreted what he was saying. There was one line he said “my life is on the line” or something close to that when he was talking about the welds on the rear. That made me think that he was going to run the rears welded.
@@neilkirkes If that's the case, then I agree with you on that not being the brightest idea, especially a car that's going to be driven hard...
Steve Morris did a great video with a welder who welds water filled copper power lines for steel plants. Very informative
That guy was a master.
"The bigger the globe, the better the job" is usually a saying reserved for anti-sieze and grease, but here we are assigning it to welding 😂
Man has a mad cnc set up and welds bits on to something he could just machine for the race of his life. That’s what I call a man who wants to learn the wild way and I love it 💪🏼🤛🏼👍🏼
You should invest in some temp-sensors to put around on the tires, on pikes peak grip is EVERYTHING! Knowing if your tires are warm/normal or where the heat (grip) is and isnt on the HUD would be super beneficial i think! Anyway, keep it up Dahminator!
Pretty sure he already does, but I may be thinking of the 4 rotor. One of his cars has them
@@Alex-wb2yw yeah, he had the temp for the tires on the 4 rotor, it looked like a video game readout on his HUD.
Rob: We want those in billet too, for your safety.
I closed my eyes when you started welding alum. haha
Isiah, .look away
11:50 on the rear geometry considerations- Caster (and kingpin) angle don't really matter on the rear because you're not turning, like you said, and it's best to just get the points as far from each other as possible to minimize overall deflection. but there is often some intentionality in the positioning of the "steering axis" (virtual axis passing through upper and lower links; still present even if there's no intentional steering) and in particular the mechanical trail and scrub radius which are impacted by those angles. Having a little bit of mechanical trail is a good thing at the rear as it keeps the tire self-centering and reduces potential compliance in the toe link, and minimizing scrub radius at the rear helps reduce the forces through the toe link during a typical bump load case. Packaging and other considerations often take priority anyway in rear suspension design, especially bump steer like you say, but there are things you can do with the rear outer geometry that dont seem immediately beneficial but can help you out in general
Good thing you mentioned the heat treatment so it's like you know what you are dealing with, billet would be the ultimate best solution since you have a cnc machine and it doesn't need heat treatment and it's way stronger than cast, but I can only wonder what would be the overall cost of it at the end of the day, but overall it's a major upgrade for everything considered!
It's kind of beyond me that with all the equipment in the shop Rob didn't make a jig for welding rear uprights
I figure one day they’re gonna discover how much jigs help. Until then it’s the Wild West hehe
@@floodo1 Haha, the weld west
/Makes key suspension pieces with eyeballed measures and welds. "I trust it with my life."
9:09 rob starts doing some kind of dance with shimmer hands 😂
As a forklift operator, stress risers form where the cross-section of a structural member changes so Im looking for the smoothest transition from old to new on a weld like that.
As the son of an Electrical distribution underground projects coordinator and friend of a backyard code welder; I recommend the parts be x-ray'd to check for any defects.
"Might look Nice on the outside but can you see inside it to know every bit is as it needs to be?" "learning to code weld is ~98% prep and 2% welding and the rest is cutting welds to check them"
( I have been told) sigh. I am actually not BS'ing at all.
@@TheHungrySlug the thing is you kind of know what is in the weld if you made the weld. Some bad welders don't think about that and just make things pretty.
If you are good enough and confident that your welds don't have voids, too much porosity and your transitions are smooth, that is something you can probably rely on and if that isn't enough, Rob has the solution: start over machining a new piece from billet.
scan the hubs and machine billet ones .. outsource it for quickness
Real trust in ability to redo all knuckles. Be safe up there Rob, hope you finish the build with no issues!
I can really appreciate ur learned knowledge of suspension geometry and ur ability to fabricate these arms
this build is my favorite youtube content right now. Probably the best content i've seen all year actually
Fun fact: the snap ring retained friction ring for 2 piece rotors was patented by PFC, their patent only recently expired which is why Wilwood and some others are following suit with their own versions. It really is the best way to do a 2 piece rotor
Rob, can you PLEASE grow out an Iron man/Tony Stark mustache-beard combo? It would suit you so well, as well as the Stark-like genius part ;)
That would look so good.
Eh, dunno. Daddy Dahm is his own person.
Rob seems like such a geniune guy, really makes the content more entertaining
We could tell it wasn't the Fab Daddy in the welding coat, cause you don't have on the requisite Croc safety shoes.
lol
That stash makes you look like a Mario character 😂
"This glorious mustache doesnt belong on my face" - Rob even though big bushy fireman mustaches are totally in style right now.
I believe the "caster" is part of the rear steer geometry. When the rear suspension droops under braking, you get toe-in to add stability. On a turn, the inside rear droops and has less weight over the contact patch and I think the toe-in on one side reduces the slip angle to keep the tire in stiction.
Dude you gotta get those Knuckles X-Ray'd or Fluxed or something, thats CRAZY
Keeps got me here because this builds Keeps getting better
I just got certified as TIG welder about a month ago. My instructor always told me it never hurts to add a couple more beads on your weld bead. It helps a lot more with strength and durability. So in short I think you’re alright with the idea of putting more beads on top of the other.
8:15
To my understanding, bearings/ bushings are to be tightened with the car on the ground, right?
The sneak peak of the front knuckles is inspiring for my dreams of improving the super strut suspension on my ST205 Celica. Love your work, your mind, and the art you and your team continue to produce.
Vibrational frequency may get the better of you here Rob but good luck hope it holds up. 🇦🇺
Those adjustable Arms with spherical bearings look like Parts Shop Max.
they are
They are, that color combo is just too iconic
As you noted, all of that welding on the aluminum upright has anealed and softened it. But you can take it to a forge and have it heat treated back to T6.
Next time you try the timesert thing you did, first install the timesert then do the extra tapping of the aluminum so it's 100% lined up
I guess my movie can wait
Glad you mentioned making the parts out of billot after testing the proof of concept. The entire video I was wondering why you hadn't just gotten the pieces drawn out in CAD then made in your CNC
I love watching welds but the certified welding side of me want to cry 😭 at least he’s got 10/10 prep
Has a CNC set up, has design software.. Cuts and welds uprights by eye with hope and prayers that they hold under load. Mental.
Please test your brake fluid before every race. Racing brake fluid absorbs water very quickly, which significantly lowers the boiling point. Personally, I use Rowe SuperDOT5.1, which is also used by many race taxis on the Nürburgring Nordschleife, a track famous for its brake destruction. Unfortunately, I don't know if Rowe is available in the USA.
I'd recognize that rose gold and gold scheme anywhere. Parts Shop MAX is the shit.
That Parts Shop Maxx rose colored anodize is hard to hide. I hope they work well for you!
Haha teasing us with that ending! 😂lol. Can't wait to see it all come together, but enjoying watching the journey
We've known each other since before your garage was blue, so I'll tell you something that you may not know... With new welders, you don't have to preheat. When you preheat, you get the material way too hot and you lose strength, as you've mentioned in the video. One of the best welders in the world is in Michigan. Steve Morris made a couple of videos with that guy (he shared some tips in the video and it's well worth the watch in my opinion).
So glad Rob uses ppe when welding. idk why people like barehanding filler metal
Just a quick materials note, that spindle is more likely to be A356 casting aluminum which has a higher silicon content to aid in flow of the material in the mold. A356 is weaker from 6061-T6(51). Also, good catch on knowing that the welding would de-temper the aluminum. Above 140C the temper decreases rapidly (a couple hours), but at welding temps it is nearly instantaneous.
Negative caster also allows you to roll over bumps easier where as positive caster would push the suspension in on itself upon impacting a bump.
Thank you Mr Wilwood Racing!
I would smooth every mm of those rear hubs. Remove minimal material but remove all risers and surface imperfections until it looks like it was almost grown organically, any surface imperfection is stress riser waiting to happen and the cast aluminum you are modifying would make me want every safety base covered. One of the welders in here probably commented but you can use the torch to bring the contaminants to the surface of the cast aluminum to ensure the best weld. Love the content, be safe.
I swwitched my old FD track car to manual, non-ABS brakes back in 1999. Went to twin primary (nee: master) cylinders, Porshce d996 front calipers and WILLWOOD rear caiipers and discs on the rear. A fabricator named David Breslau machined the adaptor brackets for the rear caiipers. You are on the right track.
Definitely interested in billet drop spindles! Even better if we could see just where it places the roll center compared to the COG. Even more better if the steering rack arm connections on the front were shorter to give a faster steering ratio.
@6:20 in vid-ish, I also like to use a good "chucking reamer" to get the perfect size and shape out of the threads for the best bite. Just in case that helps Rob.
24:26 good boy. -engineer
THANK YOU for wearing gloves while welding, finally a good exemple of health and safety on this channel.
I wish there was a shop that did stuff like this that needed a good mechanic that wants to learn all this and get his foot in the door near northern indiana
Can't wait to see the testing on track!!!
She getting low, down to the floor...
Rotary get low low low low low low
From the Throttle! to the firewall!
with regards to T-Pain who also loves cars
Listen. You make those billet knuckles, I’ll buy a set. I don’t even own an rx7, but I’ll still buy a set to support one of my favorite CZcamsrs.
nothing better than a Rob video in the evening
this build has been so awesome !! I can't wait to see the finished car, and I have never looked forward to Pikes Peak more !!!
7:13
I don't get, how you achieve a continuous thread between the insert and the lower aluminium part.
Wouldn't you have to "clock in" the insert to fit the lower thread?
He did mention clocking the insert. 6:21
@@douglasburnside Alrighty.
Cause I'd have the base hole for the insert drilled first and then use the thread cutter starting the lower part using the insert in place, you know. Doesn't matter, cause Rob is the type of guy, who can get it right in the end.
Thumbs up to him!
Yes, we want to see you play with suspension things. Dude, I'd watch you rebuild power wheels if you want. You do some crazy, cool shit and I'm here for it.
Seems you have a functional solution, you can lower the outer wishbone mount or raise the inner wishbone mounts. If packaging is an issue, pushrod and rocker allows you to use leverage multiplication to choose a smaller coilover package mounted either transverse or longitudinally.
2:13 "the biggest snap ring in the world"
Laughing in railway wheel snap ring😂😂😂😂
I would definitely buy some billit spindles from you Rob. Can't wait to see the Rob Dahm Performance parts for sale
Correcting roll center is highly underrated. It makes a HUGE difference in cornering grip, body control and responsiveness.
You could run Helium gas instead of Argon to get much deeper penetration profile. Adds like 25% more oopmh and more if preheated.
Definitely interested in billet drop knuckles. Josiah over at fdf did a one off rear grip kit. Doesn’t offer it to the public yet tho
You have a cnc i hope you recreate those knuckles in billet. The amount of safety and money and time gone into this car you should definitely do it. The last thing you want is one of those "i trust it" welds cracking at the top of the mountain. Also those bronze arms are Powered By Max arms.
We're interested in the spindles!
Absolutely should build some billet versions, Don't trust those welds on cast material for the sake of fatigue cracking and the crash that would result.
25:14
By lateral force, I think he means side to side. As the car moves forward or brakes, the control arms/knuckles/subframe sees forces moving front-to-back of the car (side to side of the knuckles)
And always keep your filler material in the shielding gas. You are killing it Rob!
Broski, shouldn’t have used TimeSerts. I mean they’re not bad by any means but there are some that are cheaper but more importantly much stronger. Torque Test Channel made a video on comparing different inserts on 10th of July 2022 and TimeSerts turned out to be in the bottom of the ranking (18:02 of that video). Top two places were PermaCoil and VCoil inserts. I suggest using those next time especially on custom brake mounts 💪🏻.
I know it's unlikely but I wanna see your rx-7 up against other rx-7s like in Hot version. looking forward to seeing all the progress Excited to see everything else you'll be doing to it Excited to see what you'll find when you're in the testing stage.
Nice jig for the knuckles Rob!
When doing full pen weldss you need to grind down to the root from the other side or you have a void that will potentially start a crack
I once bought a wilwood rotor without mounting holes. Prob was it was supposed to have them 😂. They are nice looking calipers btw. 👍
That classic copper and gold, powered by max 🤙🏻
Trust the weld with a complete bevel all the way to 1/16 then weld til flush.
Rob I agree have the welds x-rayed and magnafluxed. Making cnc would be best.
That’s a terrible modification. Just a dangerously weak spindle. Do what you want but on the mountain you will find out. I would suggest you CNC that design out. I like your videos and I’m sure you enjoy your life.
Your hair is getting more luscious every upload.
Shout out to Dave Racing - he's a man!
Dahm’s doing the Reno 911 ‘stache alls he needs now is new boots 😂
And maybe a good idea to leave the old bearing in place whilst welding to have a better chance of no distortion.
Now to Check your drive shaft length as you have made the distance and angles change for the drive shaft and you won’t want it slipping out
(she says)
Im interested in some billet drop spindles for my rx7! Oh wait i dont have an rx7 😢
Aside: Have you considered using Chrome finish on an engine, from "crankshaft" to rotors, housing, even bolts. It is supposed to be durable as well as very thin and nearly as slick as Teflon. Not to mention the LOOKS!
I don't own an RX7, but all the sudden I feel very interested in buying a billet spindle for an rx7 from Rob Dahm
Rob for the win again ❤️ I’m interested in a 13B built and bridgeported with a VW type 1 adapter plate for a 1960 to run NA carbureted. 🙏🏽
*16:50** ANY, in or out bevel, riser, etc, is a stress riser. Ultimately you want a smooth line from the point that receives the most torque, to the boss.*
So, "flat" is the answer.