Edelbrock Accelerator Pump Tuning
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- čas přidán 25. 08. 2024
- The Edelbrock accelerator pump doesn't get the right attention and sometimes doesn't get any attention. But its the place to start when tuning an Edelbrock carburetor. I'll show you all the details and a few tips and things you should do. Check it out!
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7:32 A lighter step up spring will give you later fuel enrichment not an earlier one. The step up spring forces the rod in the "most rich" position. Vacuum pulls against the spring and moves the rod to the "most lean" position. The stiffer the spring, the quicker it overcomes vacuum, so a stiffer spring will make enrichment come in sooner.
I was having a problem with a 1406 that would stumble and after watching your video I tried changing the rod to the top setting, made it worse so I put it in the lowest setting and it cured the the problem. Thank for your videos, they are very helpful.
Nice! Glad it was helpful!
U are a wise
I’m new on carburetors and let me tell u
I being looking lots of videos of tuning and is always something missing
U are so far the best
You have described the tuning process better than anyone I have seen. I haven't ever dealt with tuning a Carter or Rochester 4B but this process helps immensely. Thanks very much
Just when I thought you taught me everything about Edelbrock carbs you teach us even more, I'm running 4edelbrock carbs on everything thing from my tow to my 396 Camaro,i definitely appreciate the knowledge I'll bring you a beer 🍺 to class
I appreciate that! Thank you John!
I think an AFR gauge is the answer to carburator tuning. Ive been tuning seat of the pants, decided to install an AFR setup and stop the tune and drive test only to find out its still off.
found out I was close but the AFR got me the best results with less fuel spent.
I do appreciate your videos and have learned alot, and am grateful for your time and excellent advice.
It’s been a game changing tuning tool for sure. I get the sentiment that folks used to “tune by ear”, but we now know it was horribly ineffective. Might have started and ran ok but they left a lot on the table without knowing exactly what the engine was producing with it.
Thanks for the kind words! Very much appreciated!
Not really necessary if you know what to listen for, feel, and look at.
I had been leaning towards EFI but watching your videos has me rethinking it. Thank you for all your information.
Don’t get me wrong, if I have a choice between the two, I’m alway going to chose efi. The sequential multi port stuff is the way to go. The TBI stuff is too inconsistent. I don’t shy away from either. In both cases, it’s just about choosing what’s right for the engine!
@@MuscleCarSolutions @Jay The TBI injection gotten better too some of the systems are self tuning they can get real close from the box. some of them let you tune with a flathead if you got a carb on a engine it be the eazyist to do. all you need to do is add a return line, o2 bung, up grade the feed line, and fuel pump able to make 50 psi.
@@crazeguy26 the ecu controllers on the tbi always go out though. Reading reviews for months and they are nothing but issues.
Pretty good comment section here
Still working on my 86 monte ss Edelbrock Carb... this is very useful info. Thank you for sharing and all the detailed info.
Don’t hesitate to ask me anything if you need any assistance. Always happy to help!
This is something I've never considered. Thanks for bringing to everyone's attention.
Bought one of the Edelbrock avs-2s with annular boosters and replaced an Edelbrock with downleg boosters. There is a definite difference
holy puck, my truck came to life with this adjustment, thanks alot👍👍👍
That’s awesome!
I put the linkage on top hole it was on second. My 1967 firebird runs like a champ. Thank fo video🤘
Glad it helped!
Wouldn't going stiffer on the metering rod spring make it come in sooner to help lift rod being vacuum holds it down?
No
@@HorsepowerHouse The spring forces the rod in the "most rich" position. Vacuum pulls against the spring and moves the rod to the "most lean" position. The stiffer the spring, the quicker it overcomes vacuum, so as @Mark Naugle said, it will indeed come in sooner.
@Mark Naugle Yes
I went to a lower setting. I went to the hole furthest from the pivot point, and what a difference! There’s no more hesitation.
So that means in your set up, taking away some fuel was the right solution for the engine. It’s a key piece of info that should help you as you continue through the tuning process.
Thanks for a great explanation of the proper steps, and method/parts to tune the accelerator pump, etc.
I have an issue when the weather/car is hot. I runs ok while driving, but has died on me while starting to take off from a stop. (Not good while crossing two lane hwy) I have to kind of drive it "two footed", giving gas while easing off the brake.
So started to think it's not getting enough fuel, and need to clean or adjust the accelerator pump.
Thanks again for your videos!
@@dannovello1577 verify float settings, set your regulator at 6 psi, make sure there is nothing blocking the needle and seats. Sounds a lot like heat soak to me. Are you running an insulating spacer between the manifold and carburetor?
Hello I've worked on alot of many different carborators as a young man till now as 33 years as a mechanic of all types of vehicles, and just wanted to say that I've noticed something really cool about the Edelbrock carburetors, and that is the squertors, I've decided to just find out what the carb will do if I simply just beveled the tip of the squerter tips to cone fuel instead of drip or stream fuel in the carb, going for power efficiency and mpg's, this helps alot to mist fuel in motor like a cone tbi fuel injection unit...who would've thought... New breakthrough in carborators....from a regular automechanic...🏁😎🔧🌎✨🛸
Old school mechanics RULE.
This deserves way more than 65 likes. Awesome
Ha! As long as someone found it useful I’m happy to have helped!
Thank You for the pro tips! Very helpful. Top accelerator pump setting is a game changer 🤘
Thanks good video. I have lot work to do.
Great info on Edelbrock ... seen lots on Holley's but not a lot on these. Would like to see stuff on two barrels also!
I will bring a apple next week to class! Thanks for sharing 😁
Thank you sir!
I'm working through a flat spot on a friends car. The AFR gauge is great because you can see the brief lean spot right at throttle tip in.
Best carb tuning tool!
Ugh this is the exact video I’m looking for. I’m tuning an AVS2 and I have it on the strongest pump shot and the air door cranked super tight and can’t get it to not bog. Definitely needs some accelerator pump work.
I've got the opposite issue. I have been fighting to get my Edelbrock 750 leaner. I'm about 4 rods and jets beyond the chart. I've made it to 14-15:1 at idle and 10-12:1 while driving. Never had this much trouble before.
What is the engine and specs?
Awesome brother! Earned a subscriber. Helping me adjust my carb on my ‘67 289 Mustang. Thanks!
Good deal! Don’t hesitate to ask any questions if you run into any issues.
Great info, well explained!!
Thank you sir!
Excellent explanation. Thank you!
Great info thanks for sharing
Thanks boss!
Another great video
Thank you sir!
Very good video, I would have liked to see the improvement in the engine's response with the adjustments you made to it, I imagine it works the same on a rochester quadrajetno carb? greetings
Just spent some time tweaking my Edelbrock 1906 avs2 carb. Found out the stock metering rods were a little too big for this old FE390 with RV cam so had to go from a 37x70 to 37x65. Also had to go with the heavier silver 8hg meter rod spring. I'm figuring that long duration cam is making that 390 suck alot of air. I lengthened the stroke on the accelerator pump but ideally I may need to go with a larger nozzle. I'm going to live with the small hesitation when I hit the gas though because that truck is already drinking enough fuel. I just need to get a heat isolating gasket. It runs great until it gets really hot under the hood or if you park it for a few minutes then run it again, it starts to run crappy. That seems to be an indication the gas in the carb is getting too hot.
I'm in the process of tuning in AVS2 also. I have conceded the fact that I need to get a wide band AFR setup to truly tune it and make sure I'm not running lean and damaging the engine.
@@BPattB I'm starting to lean that way myself. It's hit and miss otherwise. In my opinion, older engines tend to be somewhat more forgiving if they run a little lean. But only a bit. I ran a Holley on this 390 for years and only realized until after removing it that my idle mix screws were too lean. It idled relatively well but I found out that when driving, if you let off the accelerator and you get that compression popping thru the exhaust, you're lean. But for running conditions, an AFR reading is really helpful for optimum performance. With the colder weather we're having now, I still get a bad miss right in mid range rpm and heavier acceleration on my current Edelbrock. It doesn't do it on real easy acceleration so it looks like I may be below the 5psi fuel pressure Edelbrocks like so much. I'm thinking my float bowl can't be replenished fast enough under any real demand.
@@stephensaasen8589 obviously MCS would be the guy to ask but if you do have an AVS 2 and you think you're running it dry that carburetor is capable of dual bowl inlet on the passenger and driver side. If you're running one of the older 1400 series I think you're out of luck. But definitely a wide bend and cars the way to go. My wife's getting one for Christmas but she doesn't know it yet LOL
@@BPattB one thing I'm going to do is replace the fuel filter. The truck used to sit alot and did very short trips until a couple of years ago. I'm wondering if more sediment had clogged it enough to lower fuel pressure. The carb was bought brand new less than a year ago so it should have provision for dual ports. Thanks for that advice. I was wondering how to keep a mechanical fuel pump and not go electric, especially since I just replaced the pump no too long ago too.
@@stephensaasen8589 not to bore you to death but my Mustang had a ton of crap in the tank. I flushed the tank with water. Then used 4 gallons of vinegar for 12 hours flipping the tank around every few hours. Water and baking soda to flush the vinegar out. Then blow the tank out with a leaf blower to dry. Last one bottle of Lucas safeguard ethanol treatment swirled around to prevent flash rust. No more stuff in the filter. I use 1 100 micron filter before the fuel pump and 1, 10micron filter before the Carburetor. Sorry for the long description lol but the flush and 2 filters have worked great. Since the flush no more crap
Got a stock GM Goodwrench 350 and added the 1406. Loved to backfire so I moved the accelerator pump to the last hole and it helped mostly but still seems rich. Feels like it misses and begins to shake at highway speeds. Vacuum gauge goes to zero. Guess I just need to go leaner (fatter?) on rods? Not happy with the 1406.
You’ve got to tune it. So far you haven’t. Get a calibration kit and start working through the process. It’s really actually quite easy.
Just bought the AVS 2 and I’m having problems with bogging. I started Lear and working on this issue yesterday
@@bertramlrezenet9311 in park if I hit the throttle quick it backfires
Verify timing.
@@MuscleCarSolutions looks like my car like a ton of timing
@@mrbeatty13able that would do it! Won’t be the last time you’ll be checking/verifying/adjusting timing during the carb tuning process. They go hand in hand.
Thank God my avs2 650 is bout dead on out of the box according to the afr I got. 383 SBC 11.3:1 compression supposed to make 503 at 6300 with a 750 brawler but I would like to tinker and make it better
@@MVPisME383 you’d be surprised how much better they run once you take the time to adjust them to what the engine wants. I get that all the time with folks who think it’s running good, until it actually gets tuned. You realize you were just putting up with it…not experiencing all they’re capable of. Goes with any carburetor. Nothing is perfect, right out of the box!
Thank you for your knowledge
Hope it was useful!
@@MuscleCarSolutions yes sir it was
@@phamskustoms happy to hear that. Just let me know if I can help.
@@MuscleCarSolutions yes sir will do Thank you !!
How do you test drive after each step? Isn't the gasket one and done? Where can i buy these gaskets in bulk? 😂
When I hit the gas from a dead stop it hesitates then it all of a sudden it goes does that mean I need more fuel? Or do I need less
Difficult to say. Easiest thing to do is add more or less on the accelerator pump and see how it reacts.
I think I may have the same problem. Did you figure it out?
I was wondering are there any differences between accelerator pumps from Edelbrock. For some reason I thought that I'd heard that the blue gasket is more capable of handling e10 e15 gas. If I did hear it I'm almost positive it was on your channel. I've had a replacement accelerator pump from Edelbrock part number 1470 with the blue gasket/o-ring for a while. Aside from the color of the o-rings, the o-ring on the pump from the factory carb is orange, and the replacement part is blue, I was just curious if there was any difference in the spring rating or anything else you can touch on. If there are different accelerator pumps and I somehow missed your video on it I apologize.
I'm having trouble with a truck that was running fine for about 2 years, light driving, since last carb rebuild. Im getting pops (backfiring) at the carburetor only on acceleration. I'm suspicious of low fuel, but fuel pressure is good and I swapped the fuel filter. I'm thinking maybe accelerator pump? Anybother ideas or input? I tried all three holes and i don't notice any difference at all, which worries me that maybe it's not that at all
@@Shepherd4now what is the fuel pressure? I think your assessment of starvation sounds like the most plausible. Verify float levels and reset the regulator. If it got any trash inside, it can restrict flow.
My carburetor starves for fuel under hard left turns, is there a way to tune that out?
Nope.
Might need to adjust your floats, having them too high or low can cause the fuel to spill over the nozzle holes and cause stuttering and flooding or starvation, depends on where your floats are. Too high=starvation, too low=flooding
Great informative video, thanks. I replaced my secondary jets and found the accelerator pump spring in the bore and the pump on top of it. So the spring wasn't attached to the pump. Somehow the pump seems to work fine. Can I leave it like that? Thanks for your help...Ron
Yes. There are two springs in that well. The one that is on the pump assembly and one below it to help return it. The spring in the well does not attach to it. It fits into the bottom of the pump. Sounds like yours is the way it should be!
Is it really the case that the top hole makes a rich mixture and the bottom hole makes a lean mixture? I have measured both positions with a slide gauge. When I use the upper hole, the rod of the pump's acceleration does not go as far down as when I use the lower hole. Wouldn't that mean that it is the other way around?
@@agentfox9554 it’s not a mixture. The pump only sends fuel through the system to the nozzle. The hole closest to the pivot point will provide the longest stroke (deeper into the well). The hole furthest away will provide the shortest stroke.
Which way to bend the rod to get more after the 3rd hole is utilized?
My carb 650 Avs2 is on my 460 1975 f 150
And I just wanted to get more power out of that engine
So I did change the jets .101 to .104 no rods needed and I’ll feel not much of the difference is it maybe because I have to step up to .107 with his metering rod to really feel the power ooorrr??
@@user-tp2xf1kq9p don’t make random rod or jet changes. Always follow the tuning chart. Tuning will allow the carburetor to operate for what the engine is demanding for fuel and air. But they won’t magically increase the horsepower levels. I’d you want to make more power, then change the things internally that will allow the engine to consume more fuel and air.
@@MuscleCarSolutions so for me it will be better changing the whole carburator to a larger cfm maybe a 750 instead doing intérnals?
I have. Rv cam
Long headers
High performance intake
But I’m building this truck for more than a regular driving I want performance and I know is going to take me smile for gallons
High five from Mexico City
I’ve got a 750cfm on a 350 olds with a slightly higher lift cam then stock and I can’t get it to rev past 2K rpm under load but at idle or neutral I can get it to rev normally. Under load it acts like it’s not getting fuel I’ll have to pump the gas to get it to rev past 2k rpm.
Time to start trouble shooting! What’s your initial and all in timing? 750 should be way more than enough on a mostly stock engine. Sure it’s not getting too much fuel? What is the condition of the spark plugs? What is your fuel pressure regulator set to?
@@MuscleCarSolutions my timing is at 28 degrees and it’s a mechanical fuel pump. The plugs are fine I had a 650cfm avs2 and the car felt gutless in the top end. Put a borrowed 750 Holley on and the car pulled better on the top end, bought this 1407 used cleaned it up and put it on, it’ll idle perfectly and rev all the way to the limiter at idle, but one I’m on he road driving I can’t go past 1/4 throttle. The car sounds like it’s running out of fuel.
@@eliuvelez7601 I’d add more timing and a regulator. Hard to believe the plugs are fine. If it’s a lean condition, a quick read would tell you that. Same with a rich condition as well. Something doesn’t add up!
@@MuscleCarSolutions I put that 1407 on my buddy’s car who let me use his 750 Holley and it does the same thing. His car has a regulator set at 7psi, also I just started messing with the carburetor today so if I read the plugs itlll mostly be from running that 650avs2. And he car doesn’t run rich and when I’m holding a quarter throttle the car will drive fine it’s just anything after it’ll start surging if that makes sense
Would I have to bend the accelerator pump arm towards the front of the vehicle or towards the rear of the vehicle? For a bigger shot of fuel? Thanks.
There’s no need to bend the linkage rod. Time to assess what you’re working with and why that carburetor isn’t adequate or what adjustments made aren’t working.
O sorry I thought you said in the video you could bend the arm a little for a better squirt of fuel
@@Iceman-bp6dd you can but I don’t have a template or any measurable way of explaining how I’ve done it. It’s not a lot, and your biggest concern is bottoming out the plunger and breaking it. If you’re going to attempt it, make the smallest of bends and test to make sure it’s not bottoming out. You’ll need the airhorn assembly completely unsecured and operate the throttle for full travel and verify it doesn’t push up on the assembly. You can also try a small loosely crumpled ball of aluminum foil to see how close it is to bottoming out. But like I said. If you’re certain you need a bigger shot, then a bigger nozzle to deliver it quicker is the next best option. Plus an AFR so you can verify it’s actually a lean condition you’re trying to correct.
Ok thank you!
I have installed an O2 sensor with an air/fuel meter. When I floor it , the guage bottoms on lean for a couple seconds. I drive an 83 E-150, 351w, C6 trans and 3.73 diff. Vehicle is heavy. Carb is a 1906. What do you recommend for squirter and setting
Seconds??? That’s an awful long time. What step up springs are you using?
Is there supposed to be a hole in the throttle body base. My card loads up as soon as you start it. The hole is against the wall. The hole is uneven in size and not machined
Not following what part of the carburetor you’re asking about? Or are you asking about a throttle body EFI? Hole where?
Okay my ed carb has a blue gasker for the accerator pump. Yours and all 3 autoparts stores had a red gasket. Red is smaller than the blue one. The kit on Amazon shows the blue gasket. Just wondering if anyone knew anything about this problem???
The blue pump is the viton material.
I am running 2 650 AVS2 carbs on a tunnel Ram on a 440 mopar bracket motor. After an engine change I am having an issue. I have a 3500 stall converter and launch at 3-3100. When I leave off the foot brake it has a split second bog, almost like you shut it off. Air doors are tightened to just past 2 turns, that seemed to fix the issue that day, but next time at the track with better air, the bog was back. My theory is with leaving with throttle already partly depressed, that the pump chamber is only partially full ?
Would changing to the 800 CFM pumps in both carbs help at all in your opinion ?
Thanks, I’m stubborn to make this work to shut the Holley guys up.
I can’t recommend enough when running a two four set up to get a O2 sensor and preferably one for each bank. Right now any changes made are a guess. Is it getting too much fuel or too little? The AFR and some data logging answers all those questions. I don’t even tune those set ups anymore unless that investment is made. You can start off by putting both pumps in to top hole (closest to the pivot point) and see if it gets better or worse. Next is step up spring changes. See if bringing in fuel sooner helps. If it doesn’t on either, then go back leaner. But it’s all guesswork at this point which is why the AFR is so invaluable to making the right changes based on the data, not seat of the pants.
I have AFR, the set up runs fine other than when going from 3000 rpm to full throttle. It’s very hard to hold rpm , launch on time and look at a AFR gauge. Data logging is not allowed in this bracket class. Also running 100ll fuel so wideband O2 sensors foul up quickly.
If no other advice, can you tell me the part number for the 800 cfm (avs2) accelerator pump?
All I can find listed are for the 650 CFM and 800 CFM non ava2.
Thanks for your time.
Im having and issue when I take my foot off the gas pedal it won’t stop accelerating. Any thoughts?
Return spring. Something binding your throttle linkage. Dunno. Should be an easy one to track back. Get under hood and activate the throttle and see if you can find where it’s binding up. Or add another return spring.
@@MuscleCarSolutions will do! Thanks for the reply. Sr.!!
@@MuscleCarSolutionswhat’s your preference between Edelbrock vs Holley Carbs?
@@Baby_Suge that’s the wrong question. The answer is, pick the right carburetor for the right application. I have no preference. Choose what’s best for what you’re asking the engine and car to do and you’ll get the right answer every time.
Will be trying all of these with the 650 on my 265ci 6cyl...
Am guessing you have seen those "power blast plates" for the nozzles... good idea or no thanks?
650? Wow. That’s an awfully big carburetor for that engine. Add that thompson power plate to the long list of other snake oil products (slick 50, tornado, power aid spacer…).
@Muscle Car Solutions she's a wild little thing, that's for sure!! Lots of comp and cam... ever seen the aussie "hemi 6" with the triple weber from stock. It's one of those motors
How do you richen the transfer slot on these?
Should be no need to. What issue are you experiencing?
What would an idle to WOT lean condition feel like vs an idle to WOT rich condition? Without an AFR gauge, how would I determine which condition I'm experiencing?
Hard stumble. Potential lean backfire. The easiest (cheapest) way is depending on the carburetor, add more shot of fuel with the accelerator pump. If it gets better you know you need more fuel. If it gets worse, then there’s a whole host of things to consider as your next steps. Timing first though. Need to know what your initial timing is and what your total advance is and at what rpm.
@@MuscleCarSolutions Thank you for the advice. I will begin with your recommendation
Don’t hesitate to respond back when you make some changes and let me know how it went. Best of luck!
@@MuscleCarSolutions Thank you for being so responsive. I'll definitely keep you updated in the coming days regarding what I've determined to be my problem and the solution
@@pacificcoast as long as CZcams plays nice and gives me the notification. I try to respond to everyone. Weird how it works sometimes.
I have a bog problem, I don't drive my K5 much, thinking valve could be clogged, do I need to remove the carb from manifold or can I check while it's mounted to manifold?
No. Remove it. If you think there is trash in the accelerator pump, you’ll need to take the air horn assembly off and the nozzle. Remove the weight and check ball and blow though it that way.
Hey i have a 500 cfm on a 69 318. Headers and a howards cam with variable duration lifters. Problem is it sorta surges when doing a 35 to 50 mph speed limit. Romp the throttle from a stop and it reponds fine. Do you think its the carb or those rapid bleed down lifters ?
Never been a fan of a Rhodes type lifter. It’s was a bit gimmicky in the 80s when they came out and with todays cam profiles it’s not necessary. It’s difficult to say. I certainly could see it causing some trouble depending on how you have them set. What was the thought in using them?
@@MuscleCarSolutions i had them on a shelf. Had a tapping noise that i couldnt adjust out so i installed those lifters. Finally found the tapping was 1 loose header bolt and that fixed it. So now im running variable duration lifters and always adjusting the idle.
I rebuilt my 1400 for my 75 stingray and got it running great at idle but, if i give it a quick shot it falls bad but, if i give it a slow shot of fuel it's fine, any suggestions on where to start to correct the stumble ?
The 1400 is the emissions legal carburetor. First would be to switch to the 650 AVS2, then start tuning.
If I need less fuel do I put it in the top hole or the bottom hole? Mine is a 750 and when I push the pedal it’s dumping too much. It’s in the middle hole now
Bottom hole is less.
@@MuscleCarSolutions thanks!
I did not know that this carburetor had so may adjustments. Just yesterday I Install the 650 on my 350 boat engine, had it tune up and it runs great but it sputters wen I turn the engine off why is that?
@@cordelmar too rich, Vacuum leaks, timing? Could be a few things.
all vacuums are plug, and just did the timing, the engine runs smoooth. The carburetor been in storage for 8 years wrapped in a heavy bag, no dust not dirt, is very clean, maybe if i run it for a wile it will settle down.
@@cordelmar what manifold is this on? What is the timing set at?
its a medium high Chevy Marine power engine manifold. I m going to take a look at the fuel adjustment maybe its on high fuel and its flooding a bit.
@@cordelmar so it had a Qjet on and used an adapter to put the Edelbrock carb on? Is it a marine spec carb or a street carb?
What would cause a eldebrock to act like it's running out of gas at higher rpm's
Floats not set properly. Not enough timing, not enough fuel pressure/pump volume, blocked rear jets or boosters. Why do you think it’s running out of fuel?
Thank you for the video. I have a older Edelbrock carb that has a spring on the accelerator pump check ball instead of the weight and was curious if those are prone to having issues?
Not really. The spring is still used on the 800 CFM carbs.
@@MuscleCarSolutions gotcha, thanks for the reply, I was just wondering because my 1411 has the spring and I can't get rid of the hesitation when I take off easy it's so annoying lol. If I take off with heavy throttle like 1/4 throttle I don't have any hesitation.
@@brandonstewart7145 sounds like it likes a little more fuel. What tuning have you done? The pump arm still in the top hole? What step up springs do you have in it?
@@MuscleCarSolutions I have it tuned like one stage below the richest setting on cruise mode and I think power mode. I'm not sure on that without seeing the chart but I know I richen it quite a bit and it liked it power wise but didn't really help the hesitation. I put the highest step up spring in it and it didn't help.
@@MuscleCarSolutions the pump arm is still in the highest hole.
What if you screw both idle screws all the he way in and it doesn't die
The transfer slots are exposed and metering all the fuel through then.
@@MuscleCarSolutions so how do I fix it
@Clarence-eo5dy check out the video on did on how to set idle mixture screws. Transfer slots are talked about and how to eliminate the problem.
Thank you for your help
@@Clarence-eo5dy yup! Go give it a shot and let me know if you have any questions. Happy to help if I can.
Where do you buy the carb work stand?.
Summit brand. They’re drilled for any four barrel carb. I have a few of them. No complaints other than the price. But everything from China costs more these days.
@@MuscleCarSolutions . I will put that on my next order to Summit. Thanks.
Is there any way to send you a video to know your opinion?
What is your question?
@@MuscleCarSolutions I have an issue , while i'm acelerationg explisiions came out (slow acceleration) so I have a video yo show you a best picture of what is going on, and of course requesting your help
@@jesustamez9309 backfiring?
@@MuscleCarSolutions nop, I hear the explosions at the end of the headers, at this time the truck hasnt mufflers yet
Do you have facebook where I can upload video?
Great video. I have a hesitation i can't cure at 900 to 1000 rpms then it smooths back out. Its a 460 with an edelbrock 1406. I know a 600 cfm is a little small but the engine doesn't see anything over 4500 to 5k rpms. It also has a dual plane intake and headers.
600 is perfectly fine for that engine and the operating rpm you’re working with. What step up spring are you using and what is your vacuum at idle?
@@MuscleCarSolutions not sure of the spring size but the metering rods stay down at idle and jump up momentarily when you punch the throttle. Vaccuum ar idle is a steady 19 inches at about 700 rpm. I was thinking the 1 inch 4 hole spacer plate may be causing the issue but it seems spacers are usually encouraged.
Hello., Quick question why would my accelerator pump be leaking from the the top or the rod area
Too much fuel pressure. Floats set too high. Garbage in the needle and seats not allowing them to close.
Ok... Thanks for your reply first of all! That will make it bleed fuel out the top of the carb, out the hole for the stem of the accelerator pump?
@@davidroberts7671 yes. That was your question and those are some of the common possibilities of why it’s doing that. It’s what I would check first.
Ok then thank you, for your time I will let you know what I find when I get home. Have a great day
@@davidroberts7671 take each one by one and eventually you’ll figure out why it’s occurring. Don’t hesitate to let me know what worked or if any of those didn’t correct it.
You dident even clearly say if the bottom hole uses more or less fuel than the top one. Why was it so hard to explain that simple information in a clear way?
Do you need to speak to a manager?
Relax Karen….
You emphasized a lot on gaining more fuel. I have a 600 and I'm getting TOO much fuel. Keep bogging down. Just bought jets & rods though. I hope I can get it going soon enough..
Easy quick test on the 600. The accelerator pump rod is in the middle hole from the factory. Put it in the hole furthest away and see if the problem gets better. If it does, you can confirm it needs less fuel.
@@MuscleCarSolutions ok, well, same problem. Nothing changed.
@@MuscleCarSolutions thank you so much for this video and the help
@@creationzthruair834 what’s your timing set at?
@@MuscleCarSolutions 4 or 5° as book States for '85 5.7
If i bought it new i shouldnt have to touch anything. Sounds like they are made so you have to buy there kit imstead of it being the best when you buy it. Have nice day
So of the millions of different combinations that carburetor could see, you’re demanding it’s perfect for your combination. Any aftermarket performance carburetor is called universal for a reason.
Can u do a vid on throttle cable adjustment
I’m not sure how I would approach that. Way too many different vehicles out there. That’s a difficult one.