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If you can find someone willing to donate the thousands of dollars I’d need to make that happen, I’d love to. But I’ve got three of these videos done so far with two more to go as of this moment. I’ll eventually show them on my truck and show AFR but that will be as sophisticated as I can afford.

@@MuscleCarSolutions or just have a crappy old truck and swap on all kinds of carbs. not sure why you automatically say not to buy one of these carbs without putting all of them on a vehicle and test drive them.

@@FatGuyBuilds because I’ve seen the dyno data on two of the three I’ve done already and on one future video. That’s why I can say that. And yeah that’s what my GMC was made for is that kind of testing. We’ll get to it eventually but I’m confident that it will show exactly what the data I saw shows. Erratic was how it was described and I’m quite sure given just how far these have been off when we’re measuring and comparing that there’s no other possible result. But we’ll give it a try and I’m very confident we’ll get the same results.

@@MuscleCarSolutions kool

😆😆😆😆 because that’s what been used for 50+ years. Way more important things to worry about. This video just showed how unimportant that is.

You’re making the assumption that it’s a brand new part. I’d be happy to do a full length video on the topic. With this format you’ve got less than 60 seconds to get the point across.

@@MuscleCarSolutions Fair enough & yeah it's a short video. But was it a new part? was very clean and the carburetor looked new, which is why i made that assumption. But yeah could have been sealed & gas is a good cleaner.

@@MrPenobe no, it wasn’t a new part. I don’t have those laying around to potentially destroy. Like I don’t have brand new carburetors laying around to destroy either. I’ve got dozens of used ones laying around but I couldn’t tell you how many hours, miles, blend of fuel they saw, “heat cycles” exposed to. I mean, all very valid points, but that’s data that I can gather over a few years worth of time if that’s what folks really want to see but…hell. I stressed the crap of of this one bottoming it out on a stack of washers! 😆 If that alone didn’t shatter it into a hundred pieces, what more will convince someone that it’s nothing to concern yourself with. A dozen other more important things to focus on. I’ll think through how to put together a full video. But even with all the data points, there’s still folks that won’t believe it. Crazy how that works. 👍 Cheers!

@@MuscleCarSolutions Ill definitely take your word for it man, sounds like you've definitely put it through the paces 😂 people don't believe anything that real but eat up lies. I certainly wasn't saying you were lying. Just pointing out why people will question it when they have no idea. You definitely put it through the paces with doing all that lol. I'll Sub and wait to see the video man. Keep up the good work.

@@MrPenobe you’ve got every right to question it. And you should! Wasn’t expecting it, but read through the comments tells me, there’s more info folks want or just as important, they’re questioning a design and material that’s been in these carburetors for 50+ years. Fair enough! But if what I did with travel completely blocked and the link installed incorrectly didn’t snap it into a bunch of pieces, then I guess I’ll see if I can find its limits! And still have folks that won’t believe it. 😆 All good! I find it just as entertaining as anyone else does and I learn right along with everyone else. Already have some ideas. I’ll see if I can get to it this year in all the other videos I want to find the time to get made! I guess this is where the professional CZcamsrs say, “stay tuned”! 👍

Who said this one wasn’t used with standard E10 pump gas?

It’s very possible. I only use genuine Edelbrock parts and kits.

Have the same problem as what?

Yes you can, but no it’s not a must. Depends on what the engine is asking for. We covered that in a full video several years ago.

I mean, I tried to kill it. It’s way more robust than folks think.

@@MuscleCarSolutions yes you did a good job of trying to destroy it, and it was tough😀

I’ll find the oldest, crustiest one I have and do the same. Unless the carb has been on fire, I’m guessing it’s going to be the same result. Though installing the link in the Z pattern will nip the tip off on occasion, but that’s installer error, not part deficiency.

It satisfied my own curiosity. I was more surprised the linkage arm bent. Learn something new all the time! 👍

50+ years of these on the road. Something must be working.

Rebuild kit comes with a new cup. Not the entire assembly.

I see hundreds of these a year. If it has severe negative effects, they aren’t showing themselves. Non issue. Install correctly and they’ll outlive whatever you’re driving.

I see hundreds of these a year. Never an issue. People live on their fears instead of reality.

I tried like hell to break it. Figured that would do it. Not saying they can’t be broken, but it’s usually that incorrect install on the linkage that snaps the top off. Trust them. They get the job done.

I don’t disagree. We covered a bunch of issues in the rest of the videos in this series. Lifters are still a big issue, but it’s generally not what people think and it’s 100% the fault of the machinist when they don’t verify lifter bore wear.

I don’t disagree. We covered a bunch of issues in the rest of the videos in this series. Lifters are still a big issue, but it’s generally not what people think and it’s 100% the fault of the machinist when they don’t verify lifter bore wear.

Not following. You say first start but you’ve already had it running since you know the vacuum it produces? Or you’re guessing? Are you talking about initial start up for cam break in?

You’d have to really jackhammer the mixture screw down hard to push it out into the venturi. There’s generally 0.150 or more of material between the end of the idle moisture screw at fully seated and the venturi. But after damn near 50 years working on cars, I never say never! 😂

Who else misses vapor lock, having to constantly tune it to altitude/temperature swings, 2,500-mile oil change intervals due to gas dissolution caused by carbs running rich to prevent knock, having to re-gap points every 1,500 miles, and leaded gas? Do you really think the average consumer will want to go through that again?

​@@gregsmith332I'm sorry you had a bad time, and I'm sorry for whatever's going on in your life, but I was talking about me personally. So please, have a great day.

We’ve all done it and it sucks! Some you can tell pretty easy when they seat. Others you might keep cranking down waiting for that positive stop when it seats and it never comes. Till the tip snaps off. 🙁

Eventually it probably will. Have some testing coming up that I needed a 650 for.

Oh I thought it was a 600. I let my curiosity get the best of me and ordered a 600 mechanical secondaries Brawler Friday. I figured with the manual transmission and the 3:55 gears sitting on my garage floor I should be OK with manual instead of vacuum secondaries. I wanted a FST carb but the wait is like 10 weeks. I was assured from Summit I have 90 days through them I can return it. Nice thing is I have a couple of friends with jet kits and power valves they let me use.

@@BPattB I’d highly suggest breaking that carburetor down for a through inspection before installing. The off shore stuff from Holley has been hit or miss for the past year or so.

If they were stuck open, that would add to that problem.

I think @themotoroilgeek did a video on the effects of overfilling a wet sump system. Either way, I’d recommend that channel. Great content that’s based on science, not speculation, as he puts it.

They’ve proven to be mostly ineffective. Great idea, never really accomplished what they were billed as. Lots of manufacturers tried an EDM lifter but there’s never been any conclusive testing that they are a cam saver. The DLC lifters however are for sure living up to the hype.

😂😂😂

Uh…..it’s a carburetor. Not a throttle body. And those poweraid spacers are a gimmick.

They’re good. Though I end up using the Edelbrock intake gaskets on every intake I do now. They match the ports perfectly. I looked at a C20 this week. Was just a little too far gone for me.

It’s one or the other. I prefer the return to be at the regulator (primary point that determines flow) than at the pump. But in reality, both work. It’s just my preference.

@@MuscleCarSolutions Thank you for the reply I've learned so much from your channel.

@@indy007jones we’re all learning something new every day! That’s what I love about all this stuff. I’m just happy to pass on a little bit of what I’ve learned and thankful you found it helpful. 🏁👍

😳

😂

This was a custom build.

Incorrect! The tooling was changed several times over the years. Most recently as edelbrock adopted the annular primary boosters and had to increase channel volume. Might look like a Carter, but after spending several days with the engineers at the Sanford facility, I can assure you they are much different.