Dodge 3.9 magnum rough idle, black soot, rich fuel smell, no check engine light, stalling problem
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- čas přidán 5. 02. 2017
- Couldn't find the problem with my Dodge Dakota. Looked online with nothing to answer my questions. Replaced everything like everyone else. Finally was shown the problem. 30 dollar fix and 45 min.. wish I had known this first to save a bunch of money. Hope this helps you out with this issue if you are experiencing it. Please like it if of any help to you.
I appreciate your analysis and diagnosis of your problem. I too suffer from.. ..the disbelief of professionals. I'm an old man.. I inherited a Dodge Dakota with similar symptoms. You are very correct in your description of.. 'don't fix, what is working'. I am almost 70 years old. This truck suffered from neglect. I have made this, "Magnum 6" destroy back tires, without trying. There is a lot of fun and safety here. I will... follow up on your fine advice....
Wow what coincidence, just got thro replacing a few that you mentioned, no check engine light, is what stopped me from spending more, that hose had been leeking for some time, and is really cruddy down thier, thx for the info!
Thanks for the info, just changed the sensor and it sure made a big difference, truck is not idling rough anymore and engine is not shaking.
Thank you this helped, I got a 92 Dakota doin the same thing.
I have an 02 doing the same thing going to check that sensor ASAP thanks for the tips since I did pretty much the same things you did
My truck doing the same shit checked the coolant sensor cleaned it and its running smooth this helped so much..will get it changed tomorrow
Valley pan gasket under intake manifold. It deteriorates causing vacuum issues and oil consumption. This will cause stalling . These motors are pretty much the same 3.9 5.2 5.9 all have the same issue
This is the #1 problem with these bad boys.... And don't get me started on the vacuum system that some engineer thought was a good idea
Same with Ford
Thanks good tip you are never to old to learn
Great video mine runs like crap when it's cold once it warms up perfect I can't figure it out but I'll try it
I was to replacing the injectors .. my coolent sensor is broken from a fken leak ....I had my hand on it 50 times ty sir !
I have the same problem with my 95 b1500 i did everything you mentioned but the coolant temperature sensor i will try that next thanks for the video
Did changing that sensor work
I had this exact same thing and I did an engine swap. Put a 318 magnum in it because I thought it was a bad engine. Lots of money later.. lol
I did about everything you did to my 2000 Dodge Ram 1500 . No check engine light . Same deal you had . So i hope this is what is wrong with mine . I’m going to take a look at it tomorrow. Thanks so much for this video ! People don’t know how much trouble shooting you have to go through . You said I did this and this and this and I said me too .
Lol . I will give you an update when I get time to check mine .
Did u fixed your truck? I got 2000 ram truck 5.9 with same problems
Did it fix your problem?
No I’m afraid it didn’t . I changed it . But still runs rough when you first start it up till it gets warm .
@@VegasHighroller
Any update?
Did you get it fixed?
Oxygen sensor with the cold start rough idle. I had same issue. My only issues after a fuel pump failure was a lose in fuel mileage by half. Still can't figure it out. Maybe the temp switch. Going to replace it in couple days.
I have a 99 dakota with a 3.9L V6, having that same issue right now. Keeps stalling out, and I went through a whole tank of gas just to go home from work today. I replaced the injectors, spark plugs, the intake hose, air filter, fuel pump. All that. And it only gets better for 5 minutes until it gives up on life 😂😅
Did the sensor make make miss and run rough when it was cold until it warmed up, Joey from Statesville NC
My '01 RAM B1500 van , same engine starts up fine but starts popping, cracking and backfiring about 1 minute after if I start it 30 minutes to 3 hours after a hot start. I can shut the engine off and restart or hold the throttle to the floor until whatever is going on with it goes away. No OBD II codes. I thought it was a lean condition but the other day I smelled gas like it's actually flooding out. It never does this on a cold start or if I restart the engine within 15 minutes after a hot start. Something tells me the ECU is going into a closed loop 1 minute after starting the engine when it should be ignoring something like the O2 sensor. Perhaps the heated element in the O2 sensor is burned out but will still read once the exhaust heats up.
Could be the "icm?" Its under the rotor in the disributor, mine wouldnt start, stalled out and PISSED ME OFF!! LOL.. but i changed that and the iac... Cleaned with carb cleaner and its much better now!!!
lm literally going through the same thing with my 03 Dakota. Oreilly clerk randomly suggested the coolant temp sensor and sure enough it worked. After I replaced everything else! Keeping the TPS sensor clean of carbon deposits around it made a noticeable difference. And the throttle intake clean of carbon deposits so it will idle and slowly accelerate without stalling.
I have a carburetor on mine is yours fuel injections
I have the same truck and year just started having the same problem will try this!
PS do you still have the truck and did it solve your issue?
Did the coolant sensor not work? I am wondering, how would one know that is the issue to check it?
Good video. Missed a few parts skipping over the "uuuuuhh"
Do you have?
The part number on the Bosh injectors. Have AV8 need to do the same.
Anyone with a Chrysler/Dodge/Ram/Jeep etc from 1996 1997 1998 1999 etc with the jtec style computer (the same ones in the '98 Dodge Dakota), there is a simple solution to the random rough idle and stalling issues. Remove the left torx screw on the PCM computer, add two washers and then replace the screw. Can do the same with the other side, but do them one at a time. The screw seems to be just long enough to eventually ground out a component inside the computer and cause the engine to stall out. Didn't believe it myself, but when I pressed on the screw there in the front the engine died and backing the screw out fixed the issue. On warm days or once the engine was warmed up, the thermal expansion must have been just enough to momentarily ground the component.
Will a 2000 Dakota with the V6 do this as well?
10100rsn did it come up “no bus” on the dash? I’ve been having this issue.
uhhhhhhhh 😆 lol
I have a 98 dakota I'm definitely going to do this just to be safe bc I just bought the truck with 171k miles 3.9l $1400 gotta put in about $500 worth of work but I don't wanna be freaked out when more shit goes wrong so might as well prevent it from happening
@@uhpixr if it is the old JTEC style computer with the two torx screws in the front under the connectors... If you start having random stalling issues with it and there is no spark... Just go with a new refurbished PCM. The older ones are hell to open and repair. Its like pealing a tin can off of expired jelly, gross and will break even if you fix it. Old caps, broken traces, bad inner board connector... Likely the pcm has more issues then its worth, but make sure to back the screw out a little and glue the aluminum board it holds on with some ultra black RTV to keep it from coming loose. The torx screws hold that aluminum circuit board down so the RTV is to hold and seal it... the ultra black RTV is the only one really safe around sensors and electronics.
The vacuum line that your friend broke goes right underneath the 2 heater core lines goes into fire wall u will see it under there mine was broke once I flushed the core I seen it and guess I was right lol got to switch between my vent controls
Check your 02 upstream sensor or TPS or IAC & you'll be fine
The upstream o2 sensor was my problem,bought all these sensors and fuel pump,none of those were bad
Did you put a jumper wire in it to bypass the bad switch? Because I have the same problem, but I replaced the sensor and it still runs like way too much fuel, and no engine light on
I took off all those crazy hose clamps and put on more reliable worm clamps.
And i didnt have to change any hoses
Just checking is your truck running good now since you fixed that water temp.. I replace the waterpump on mine radiator all the hoses and that damn things acting funny again and I went to one of my buddies today he's a mechanic too me myself I don't do much mechanic anymore for a long time because healthwise and over time you do forget but some things I do remember but this new stuff I get lost on
Me and my girls 2001 has this exact problem I hope this is it's exact fix
Thanks
Helped a lot
I miss my 68 Chevy, much easier to figure out, my dodge drives me crazy
99 dodge Dakota sport 4x4 3.9 and yupp same problem been changing everything coil plugs wires distributer no check engine either,I'll try it tomarrow and let you know runs good once warmed up but miss fires and runs like hell when cold
the truck i have is the same thing. my buddy had a starting stalling issue as well. ended up parking it and getting a wrangler. later on he decided to tackle it. repalced the ecu and still had that issue. it ended up being a bad ground to the ECU. fixed that and ive been driving the truck for over a year without issue
I have a 99 Dakota 3.9, changed the IAC with an after-market part and it didn't work. Then I got the Mopar part, and it runs like new money. I heard the after-market parts sometimes do not work on Chrysler; found this out the hard way>
i had the same issue with my GM as well the ICM didnt work till i bought a quality part
I have the 3.9 99 dakota crank it up goes to 1500 rpm idles down to 1000 down to 500 back to 1000 and then dies. I'm still trying to find the issue
@@jeremycorrao2432 Mine is doing this and throwing P0122 (TPS), P0112 (IAT), P0107 (MAP) and P0117 (ECT) codes. Did you figure yours out?
mine ecu was collapsing ..had to replace it with a new one.. hasnt stallled since
So 2 things 1 get a can of throttle body cleaner at Walmart 2 bucks and spray your throttle body inside and out use the whole can make sure engine is cold
2 check battery connection on all negative grounds from battery any look damaged replace
Any car u have that's hard to start ruff idle please just clean throttle body inside and out open the butterfly spray all inside use whole can it will be hard to start at first when it starts to go give lots of gas I mean donkey kick that gas pedal
intake at head vacuum leak ? sucking crank case fumes into combustion chambers and oil into intake manifold ...... check torque of intake bolts for starters...
im faceing with a big problem with my dodge dakota to much smoke rough idle code p0128 po509 po172 i need help
Guys I have the same problem with 3.9 98 and I almost lost hope.
I've changed: map sensor, throttle sensor, idle sensor, crank position sensor, 2x O2 sensor AND coolant sensor.Nothing changed.
Tomorrow I will change IAT and camshaft sensor.
Did you ever get yours fixed? Mine is a 99 and I don't know what else to try
@@TheSkoalboy09 I've changed almost everything except computer under hood and it doesn't work so I've sold it. Have no idea if new owner fixed this but for most of people changing computer solve problem.
Intake manifold gasket. Vacuum leaks #1problem on dodges and Ford
@@bfields1448 That's not true. It wasn't any intake problem because after unplug computer and plug it again everything was fine for a bit. 90% my problem was computer. I need to ask new owner if he find solution
@@Cuba636 yes computer is probably the problem. My son's is a 94 3.9
Timing might be off, could be old serpentine tensioner or old timing belt
Crank position sensor has nothing to do with fuel trim but I can see why you changed it out since it was dying on you
your rite it don't, but on these dak's if there's a funky signal from the cs the ecm cuts of fuel del. crazy set up realy
The cs can make you think it’s a fuel issue. Because if it’s faulty the vehicle while just turn and never start
Could be the distributer spark coil too only electronic not replaces basically
Or evap system most likely
Couple terminal ends and no plug needed
I have 97 dodge ram 1500 cranks no start I changed ign coil crank sensor spark plugs distributer injectors all 8 , it cranks no start and smell rich fuel I step no gas pedal down it trys to start but then dies. need help
David Santos did you ever figure it out???
load the parts cannon and go on the forums lol
Same problem, but mine was the Idle Air Control valve. IAC
Did it smoke
My 92 Dakota 5.2 runs but when I rev it up it starts smoking black an black soot comes out and when I’m driving it chugs a little but constantly anyone know what it could be I put a new map sensor on it didn’t fix the problem
That black smoke his gas...my truck was doing same...i replaced the oxyen sensors...no longer smoking..now gettting normal gas mileage..
I've got a Dodge Dakota it is getting to much fuel and flooding out want crank
Try a new coil and a idle air control valve
I have this in a 3.3
i have a 2000 dodge durango v8 5.2 sport and i have almost the same problem like you and i change spark plugs wires, fuel pump,camshatf sensor,cranckshaft p. sensor,,rotor,rotor cap,i clean the throttle body,i replace the iac valve,pcv valve,map sensor,throttle sensor, and still have the problem ,i take to the mechanic and it cost me $800 dlls.. the said is a burn wire but today i pick up my truck from the mechanic and the truck fails again🤦 i going to replace the temperature sensor tomorrow and i see what happend .
Let me know if it works I've done the same to mine changed every sensor plugs wires coil chased vacuum leaks for days.mine dies randomly starts right back up runs rich I'll check mine tomorrow
Im try it tomorrow same problem changed everything on my 2001
Look at my comment
Alilright I'll try that .all grounds have been changeded just waiting on coolant sensor too come in the mail and I'll donkey kick the shit out of it
Sounds like it was the idle air control valve located backside of throttle body facing the firewall
Clean your throttle body and get that vacuum line fixed
Valley pan gasket.
All signs point to idle speed control. It won't give you a code until it totally fails.
Idle speed control will give you a code???
Like I said it might not give you a code at first. Maybe EGR as well. Or MAP sensor. They might not throw a code until it totally fails.
Changed mine and still dies after I start it goes to low rpm then back to 1k then dies
Why would a temp sensor shut the truck down ?
If its faulty it will tell the ecu the engine is cold/needs more fuel, even when it is warmed up...thus flooding the engine with fuel- making it run bad/stall especially when idling
....or
Tells the engine it is warm when its actually cold, not giving enough fuel during cold starting- making it hard to start.
Clean the throttle
I have the same problem. I changed the coolant temp sensor. Didn’t fix it.
Try changing the connector. It may not be getting a good connection
Important question! My 2003 dodge durango 5.9 sputters and won't get up to speed until it warms up then when it warms up it drives fine .. what could this be ?
could be as simple as spark plugs
But my temp gauge is working
So did it fix it?
I have the same question , I never heard him say it did the trick?
o2 sensors both them
Intake manifold gasket. #1 problem with dodge and ford. Smoke test it..ask a mechanic
What's the part number for the injectors?
ECT maybe
Couldn't you have spotted this with a scanner that reads live data?
Yup. Nothing like throwing parts at it🤔
MoPar engine blocks are indestructible especially these old LA motors which probably the best engines chrysler ever made, these motors could survive a holocaust. the problem lies in all of the cheap shit they bolt on to the block. anything electrical you can say good bye to, MoPars are infamous for their electrical issues. pumps, filters, bearings, nope nope nope.
First of all that's not the coolant temperature sensor that's the coolant temperature sending unit two completely different parts bud
The coolant temperature sensor is the one that you have unplugged at the top of the intake right above the sending unit that you're working onshows it towards the end of the video at the top and it's a two prong and it's unplugged
why did you make this you have know that you are doing.
Didnt work
valley pan sucking air under carb.