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JON C
Registrace 8. 06. 2015
Dodge 3.9 magnum rough idle, black soot, rich fuel smell, no check engine light, stalling problem
Couldn't find the problem with my Dodge Dakota. Looked online with nothing to answer my questions. Replaced everything like everyone else. Finally was shown the problem. 30 dollar fix and 45 min.. wish I had known this first to save a bunch of money. Hope this helps you out with this issue if you are experiencing it. Please like it if of any help to you.
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I have a 99 dakota with a 3.9L V6, having that same issue right now. Keeps stalling out, and I went through a whole tank of gas just to go home from work today. I replaced the injectors, spark plugs, the intake hose, air filter, fuel pump. All that. And it only gets better for 5 minutes until it gives up on life 😂😅
Do you have? The part number on the Bosh injectors. Have AV8 need to do the same.
valley pan sucking air under carb.
Same problem, but mine was the Idle Air Control valve. IAC
Did it smoke
ECT maybe
Did you put a jumper wire in it to bypass the bad switch? Because I have the same problem, but I replaced the sensor and it still runs like way too much fuel, and no engine light on
o2 sensors both them
Me and my girls 2001 has this exact problem I hope this is it's exact fix
Good video. Missed a few parts skipping over the "uuuuuhh"
YEAH SCREW OREILYS !!! They took my mom “ To The Cleaner’s “ so to speak .. She went in for something simple come out with a “ New” Transmission that slammed every time she gave it gas and was told that’s normal for a “ New “ Transmission “ ASS WHOLES!!! I wasn’t around and. Never heard of any issues to her car and the times I had driven it the transmission worked fine but yeah transmission mounts fix themselves atleast that’s what they told my mom.
I appreciate your analysis and diagnosis of your problem. I too suffer from.. ..the disbelief of professionals. I'm an old man.. I inherited a Dodge Dakota with similar symptoms. You are very correct in your description of.. 'don't fix, what is working'. I am almost 70 years old. This truck suffered from neglect. I have made this, "Magnum 6" destroy back tires, without trying. There is a lot of fun and safety here. I will... follow up on your fine advice....
Valley pan gasket.
Timing might be off, could be old serpentine tensioner or old timing belt
Try a new coil and a idle air control valve
I have the same truck and year just started having the same problem will try this! PS do you still have the truck and did it solve your issue?
Thanks for the info, just changed the sensor and it sure made a big difference, truck is not idling rough anymore and engine is not shaking.
What's the part number for the injectors?
Intake manifold gasket. #1 problem with dodge and ford. Smoke test it..ask a mechanic
I was to replacing the injectors .. my coolent sensor is broken from a fken leak ....I had my hand on it 50 times ty sir !
Guys I have the same problem with 3.9 98 and I almost lost hope. I've changed: map sensor, throttle sensor, idle sensor, crank position sensor, 2x O2 sensor AND coolant sensor.Nothing changed. Tomorrow I will change IAT and camshaft sensor.
Did you ever get yours fixed? Mine is a 99 and I don't know what else to try
@@TheSkoalboy09 I've changed almost everything except computer under hood and it doesn't work so I've sold it. Have no idea if new owner fixed this but for most of people changing computer solve problem.
Intake manifold gasket. Vacuum leaks #1problem on dodges and Ford
@@bfields1448 That's not true. It wasn't any intake problem because after unplug computer and plug it again everything was fine for a bit. 90% my problem was computer. I need to ask new owner if he find solution
@@Cuba636 yes computer is probably the problem. My son's is a 94 3.9
My truck doing the same shit checked the coolant sensor cleaned it and its running smooth this helped so much..will get it changed tomorrow
I have the same problem with my 95 b1500 i did everything you mentioned but the coolant temperature sensor i will try that next thanks for the video
Did changing that sensor work
i have a 2000 dodge durango v8 5.2 sport and i have almost the same problem like you and i change spark plugs wires, fuel pump,camshatf sensor,cranckshaft p. sensor,,rotor,rotor cap,i clean the throttle body,i replace the iac valve,pcv valve,map sensor,throttle sensor, and still have the problem ,i take to the mechanic and it cost me $800 dlls.. the said is a burn wire but today i pick up my truck from the mechanic and the truck fails again🤦 i going to replace the temperature sensor tomorrow and i see what happend .
Let me know if it works I've done the same to mine changed every sensor plugs wires coil chased vacuum leaks for days.mine dies randomly starts right back up runs rich I'll check mine tomorrow
Clean the throttle
So 2 things 1 get a can of throttle body cleaner at Walmart 2 bucks and spray your throttle body inside and out use the whole can make sure engine is cold 2 check battery connection on all negative grounds from battery any look damaged replace Any car u have that's hard to start ruff idle please just clean throttle body inside and out open the butterfly spray all inside use whole can it will be hard to start at first when it starts to go give lots of gas I mean donkey kick that gas pedal
Im try it tomorrow same problem changed everything on my 2001
Look at my comment
Alilright I'll try that .all grounds have been changeded just waiting on coolant sensor too come in the mail and I'll donkey kick the shit out of it
Didnt work
Couple terminal ends and no plug needed
lm literally going through the same thing with my 03 Dakota. Oreilly clerk randomly suggested the coolant temp sensor and sure enough it worked. After I replaced everything else! Keeping the TPS sensor clean of carbon deposits around it made a noticeable difference. And the throttle intake clean of carbon deposits so it will idle and slowly accelerate without stalling.
I have a carburetor on mine is yours fuel injections
Just checking is your truck running good now since you fixed that water temp.. I replace the waterpump on mine radiator all the hoses and that damn things acting funny again and I went to one of my buddies today he's a mechanic too me myself I don't do much mechanic anymore for a long time because healthwise and over time you do forget but some things I do remember but this new stuff I get lost on
I miss my 68 Chevy, much easier to figure out, my dodge drives me crazy
Thanks
Could be the distributer spark coil too only electronic not replaces basically
Or evap system most likely
Valley pan gasket under intake manifold. It deteriorates causing vacuum issues and oil consumption. This will cause stalling . These motors are pretty much the same 3.9 5.2 5.9 all have the same issue
This is the #1 problem with these bad boys.... And don't get me started on the vacuum system that some engineer thought was a good idea
Same with Ford
I have an 02 doing the same thing going to check that sensor ASAP thanks for the tips since I did pretty much the same things you did
mine ecu was collapsing ..had to replace it with a new one.. hasnt stallled since
Clean your throttle body and get that vacuum line fixed
Important question! My 2003 dodge durango 5.9 sputters and won't get up to speed until it warms up then when it warms up it drives fine .. what could this be ?
could be as simple as spark plugs
Why would a temp sensor shut the truck down ?
If its faulty it will tell the ecu the engine is cold/needs more fuel, even when it is warmed up...thus flooding the engine with fuel- making it run bad/stall especially when idling ....or Tells the engine it is warm when its actually cold, not giving enough fuel during cold starting- making it hard to start.
intake at head vacuum leak ? sucking crank case fumes into combustion chambers and oil into intake manifold ...... check torque of intake bolts for starters...
The vacuum line that your friend broke goes right underneath the 2 heater core lines goes into fire wall u will see it under there mine was broke once I flushed the core I seen it and guess I was right lol got to switch between my vent controls
Thanks good tip you are never to old to learn
But my temp gauge is working
I have this in a 3.3
My '01 RAM B1500 van , same engine starts up fine but starts popping, cracking and backfiring about 1 minute after if I start it 30 minutes to 3 hours after a hot start. I can shut the engine off and restart or hold the throttle to the floor until whatever is going on with it goes away. No OBD II codes. I thought it was a lean condition but the other day I smelled gas like it's actually flooding out. It never does this on a cold start or if I restart the engine within 15 minutes after a hot start. Something tells me the ECU is going into a closed loop 1 minute after starting the engine when it should be ignoring something like the O2 sensor. Perhaps the heated element in the O2 sensor is burned out but will still read once the exhaust heats up.
I did about everything you did to my 2000 Dodge Ram 1500 . No check engine light . Same deal you had . So i hope this is what is wrong with mine . I’m going to take a look at it tomorrow. Thanks so much for this video ! People don’t know how much trouble shooting you have to go through . You said I did this and this and this and I said me too . Lol . I will give you an update when I get time to check mine .
Did u fixed your truck? I got 2000 ram truck 5.9 with same problems
Did it fix your problem?
No I’m afraid it didn’t . I changed it . But still runs rough when you first start it up till it gets warm .
@@VegasHighroller Any update? Did you get it fixed?
Oxygen sensor with the cold start rough idle. I had same issue. My only issues after a fuel pump failure was a lose in fuel mileage by half. Still can't figure it out. Maybe the temp switch. Going to replace it in couple days.
I took off all those crazy hose clamps and put on more reliable worm clamps. And i didnt have to change any hoses
First of all that's not the coolant temperature sensor that's the coolant temperature sending unit two completely different parts bud
The coolant temperature sensor is the one that you have unplugged at the top of the intake right above the sending unit that you're working onshows it towards the end of the video at the top and it's a two prong and it's unplugged
MoPar engine blocks are indestructible especially these old LA motors which probably the best engines chrysler ever made, these motors could survive a holocaust. the problem lies in all of the cheap shit they bolt on to the block. anything electrical you can say good bye to, MoPars are infamous for their electrical issues. pumps, filters, bearings, nope nope nope.
Did the coolant sensor not work? I am wondering, how would one know that is the issue to check it?