Flush Trim Router Bits - 396
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- Äas pĆidĂĄn 28. 05. 2024
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I think of it as up to the shank or down from the shank.
I think you wouldâve made an excellent salesman for bits and bits, because you explained it the geometry so well
Great video Jay. You managed to cover some really useful points that I certainly hadnât considered. Thank you. đđ»
Intellectual and helpful in all aspects for a beginner to learn from, thank you kindly for sharing your knowledge with all. Hawk
appreciate your explanations to help understand some of the thinking behind buying a router bit to make templates.
Thanks for the video it cleared some of my confusion on these bits.
Thank you for going into depth about bits, Iâm still new to the router. Im quickly learning itâs the most versatile tool in the workshop.
I had questions for bits&bits and received a prompt and satisfactory response right away. Their customer service is excellent. Keep up the good work, Jay.
its the same if you use router bits for wood / plastic or endmills for wood / plastic / metal
Downcut: the "chip" moves FROM the mounting chank TOWARDS the tip of the cutter.
Upcut: the "chip" moves FROM the Tip of the cutter TOWARDS the mounting chank.
For easy recognision an ordinary twist drill is 99% of the time UPCUT. so if the spiral in the cutter is reverse in comparision its an Downcut. remember to take note of the "cutting edge" on the spiral, since there is cutters for COUNTER clockwise rotation (CCW) but in the home shop those are rare.
This is a great guide to the different kind of bits and the decisions that go into choosing one over the other.
The bending stiffness of a rod is proportional to the cube of the diameter. That's why one should use a larger bit and shank whenever possible.
Always a pleasure to watch one of your videos. Only a few manage to clarify the pros and cons of a tool, going into the smallest detail possible. I learned quite a âbitâ, even though I use flush trim bits. Thanks for using your time and sharing your experiences with us.
Love videos like these especially on router bits , each time I watch one I get something new out of it !! Thank you Jay
This video came along at the perfect time. I have been spending a fair amount of time analyzing which router bit I want to buy. Thanks for the helpful hints
I always look at the upcut and downcut bits as pushing the sawdust into the cavity or pulling the sawdust out of the cavity. It works the same upside down or not.
When it comes routing, don't nudge it, don't bump it, don't ram it. Dust is rubbing and rubbing is routing! (sry bad DoT reference) Rubbing is bad mmkay. To the serious comment; I never thought about it being too fast! I'll definitely try slowing my router speed down. Thank you both Jay and Bits and Bits! Not really a glamorous topic, but definitely a necessary one for anyone using a router. Thanks again!
Now I know (more) how and when to select the right bit for the job!
Useful information thanks
Thanks for covering this info. It always sounds basic and obvious when you hear these kinds of factors explained, but itâs just as important to actually hear them explained so you donât make what could turn out to be a very bad assumption.
Great content! Thank you for putting this together.
Another great instructional video. You and stumpy nubs are some of the best.
Thanks Jay well presented.
Thanks for the video. I do have one comment. Years ago we did wood frames for recessed lighting in kitchens. The frames might be as small as 4 x 4 or as big as 10 x 20 feet. Most of the time the edges were routed with a cove or a round over bit. I did probably more than a hundred thousand feet of routering. We always used a climb cut because we would never get any tearout. If we routed into the grain, tearout was real possibility that would either ruin the frame or cause a significant delay in production. If I am not removing much material, I still always use a climb cut to prevent tearout.
Some great info! Thanks for providing.
Great information on proper router bit selection and usage, you always seem to be able to explain in a way that I think most people can understand.
Novice woodworker here ... great video
I'm just getting started with routers, so this is very helpful info, thanks.
Great info Jay! Always helps to hear these summaries as there are so many options available.
I feel like everytime you drop a video, I end up with more knowledge then before it started. I can't say that for every other video out there.
The coating on these bits are excellent!
Great info Jay. Thanks for all you do.
Thank Jay, great overview of an area that I have very little knowledge. A router table is in my near future to take my woodworking to the next level and this video will provide guidance on which flush trim bits to use and when.
Very interesting and informative.
Very good information keep up the good work
I truly appreciate the info and I needed all of it. But on the other hand if you donât want it I donât either. Thank you for sharing.
That helped me understand a lot more about routing, thanks.
Thanks for another great video.
Great explanation.
You answered a lot of long standing questions I've had. Thank you for making this video!
Excellent information Jay. Really appreciate these short little knowledge dumps.
can I provide info this way for the router bit
Thanks for the great information!
Very good insight. Very interesting with the opposite point of view that Izzys latest video regarding the straight bits.
I haven't watched it but a few people have brought it up. Different strokes for different folks I suppose.
Great vid! You brought up a couple of points that I haven't considered and you also confirmed some of the issues with router bits I have had. Thank you!
Excellent explanations on the differences.
Great video Jay thanks for the information.
Not sure how to contact you. Please help. Thanks. Sorry.
Great explanations on the different bits. Thanks Jay!
Jay. I am a bit technochallenged. Need a different way to contact you in a bit.
Excellent information. I am a hobby worker and do not use production methods. This video really helped me with information I had not thought of. Thanks.
Great explanations and information for me to think about without getting too scientific about it. Being a bit more analytical before gouging the wood is a good thing. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the video, very useful information.
Thank you!
Up towards the motor. Also just like a normal drill bit (I know there are left hand bitsâŠ)
Thanks for sharing that!
Good stuff! Thanks!
Great video. You introduced me to Bits n Bits a long time ago.
nice bits
I've used 1/4" upcut spirals for several years now. Appreciate your take on using 1/2" bits in my tables, tho. I have Bosch 1617's in my tables (2 1/4 HP, soft start, variable speed). I will certainly look for a 1/2" shank for my tables.
It should have been a freaking no-brainer. I use 1/2" shank bits almost exclusively in my tables, as there is 4 times the material in the shank of a 1/2" unit when compared to a 1/4" unit. Dooh!
Thanks, Jay! You rawk!
Thanks for the info!
Great video Jay, very helpful.
Very informative video. Sure could use some of these bits.
You corrected yourself with the notes but the issue with 1/4â bits is they are less stiff. All solid carbide bits are more brittle than a steel shanked bit with carbide cutters. This only becomes an issue on the less stiff 1/4â bits. This is one benefit of straight bits as well as being easy to sharpen and being much cheaper.
very well said and great information thanks for the video
Thanks for the info and the discount code. I placed an order based on your info and what I needed.
Great information Jay, thank you very much.
Really helpful, have learned a lot about spiral bit
That crisp clean background was đ„đ„đ„
Satisfying. Thank you melamine. You did well.
Another eckspecially good video.
Another great video and very informative, thanks buddy đ
Great info. I really enjoy your videos
Very informative
Nice video, thanks
I am in the process of making "plantation shutters, and getting a fair amount of tear-out when making the slats, which required a lot of sanding, distorting the camber on both sides of the slats. I have always run the router at full speed. Because of your comment about starting slow and increasing speed to find the "sweet spot" I now believe if I slow the speed and work up (or in) with a shallower cut, I will get a much smoother finish. Thanks for the info. You always do a great job with your video's.
Glad to hear it :)
Great video
thanks
Very nice summary, Jay. Would it make sense to do a template cut in two passes, first with a 1/2 inch diameter bit, and then if there are tight inside curves that the 1/2 inch bit couldn't reach, do another pass with a 1/4 inch bit to clean those out? Seems like it would work just fine, but I haven't tried it yet.
You use a slower speed with larger diameter bit because it is not the RPM that matters but the speed of the cutting edge on the wood. With tweo bits are used at the same RPM, if one bit is twice as large as the other one the cutting edge will run twice as fast too.
Correct. But chipload is still a thing.
My question is, do you get credit for all the times I'm going to have to watch this to router correct? Good stuff, Thank you.
Rather than "up" or "down" which can be reversed by reorienting the bit, maybe they should be referenced by the end of the bit that the waste moves toward. "Tip flow" and "shank flow". Then it wouldn't matter which direction the bit was pointed, the flow of waste material can always be referenced the same way.
Jay, and every othet You Tube'r , one channel does an episode on Router Bits within a few days evryone's doing skits on Ronter Bit's , Jay, I hope this was a massive coiincince because I really do believe your better than that.
I can't tell you the last time I've watched a woodworking video on CZcams. I don't keep up with what everyone else is doing.
Hi Jay, sorry for a question that is not exactly on topic with the video, but where do you buy wood for your projects? I am in northern Oakland county and looking for something beyond the big box stores. Thank you!
I'm in Mississippi.
LoL. I was way off. Thanks for replying.
Did you know i just bought a router table or something? đ
I was not aware that compression bit had a maximum material dimension. Does anyone know if it is less than 1/16 inch that is typical for band saw templated part? Great video.
1/16 is good. In CNC terms, I'd prefer around 66% stepover for pocketing. So translating that to the amount of material after rough cutting a template trace, I'd say stick to half the diameter of the bit or less.
As a beginner, I have no bits yet. Iâd like to purchase a set of bits that will be useful and would appreciate input. Iâll head over to bits and bits so pointing me to a set would be awesome. Thanks for the video. Itâs a lot to think about.
It's hard to make blanket recommendations like that because we all work differently and value stuff differently. For example, when I first started woodworking I liked to use the Ogee bit on sooo much stuff. I don't think I've used it in the past 5 years. My recommendation is to look at what you want to accomplish and buy according to what will help get that done.
@@JayBates that makes sense. Focus on what I want to do and work from there. Thanks!
Jay I got an email supposedly from you saying I won something (a exercise bike) I was expecting a router bit and to text a phone number, but it seems like a scam. They want me to pay shipping charges.
Great information! Learned a lot with this vid. Keep up the good work. Hope i win the free bits, Iâm new to woodworking so theyâll be a great addition to me.
Jay, my name is Jeff Turnbaugh you contacted me on Gmail saying I had won
I did not contact you. Bots are cloning my icon and using a different name.
Great video